GMC SIERRA 2005 Owner's Manual

{CAUTION:
If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the
wheel rim anges could develop cracks after
many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel
could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only
radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.
Uniform Tire Quality Grading
Quality grades can be found where applicable on the
tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum
section width. For example:
Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A
The following information relates to the system
developed by the United States National Highway
Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by
treadwear, traction and temperature performance.
(This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.)The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most
passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading
system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type
snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires,
tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches
(25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires.
While the tires available on General Motors passenger
cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these
grades, they must also conform to federal safety
requirements and additional General Motors Tire
Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.
Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on
the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled
conditions on a specied government test course.
For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and
a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as
a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires
depends upon the actual conditions of their use,
however, and may depart signicantly from the norm
due to variations in driving habits, service practices and
differences in road characteristics and climate.
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Traction – AA, A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A,
B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability
to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled
conditions on specied government test surfaces of
asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor
traction performance. Warning: The traction grade
assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking
traction tests, and does not include acceleration,
cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.
Temperature – A, B, C
The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C,
representing the tire’s resistance to the generation
of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested
under controlled conditions on a specied indoor
laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can
cause the material of the tire to degenerate and
reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to
sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a
level of performance which all passenger car tires must
meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard
No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of
performance on the laboratory test wheel than the
minimum required by law.Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is
established for a tire that is properly inated and not
overloaded. Excessive speed, underination, or
excessive loading, either separately or in combination,
can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced
carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life
and best overall performance.
If you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling
one way or the other, the alignment may need to
be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving
on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be
rebalanced.
Wheel Replacement
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted
or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the
wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced.
If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some
aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired).
See your dealer if any of these conditions exist.
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Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.
Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying
capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted
the same way as the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts
or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM
original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to
have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts
for your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel
bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be
dangerous. It could affect the braking and
handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose
air and make you lose control. You could have
a collision in which you or others could be
injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel
bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.Notice:The wrong wheel can also cause problems
with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or
odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height,
vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain
clearance to the body and chassis.
Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced
on a dual wheel setup, check the wheel nut torque
after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (160, 1 600 and
10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut
Torque” underCapacities and Specications on
page 5-130.
SeeChanging a Flat Tire on page 5-92for more
information.Used Replacement Wheels
{CAUTION:
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is
dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used
or how far it’s been driven. It could fail
suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to
replace a wheel, use a new GM original
equipment wheel.
5-89

Tire Chains
{CAUTION:
If your vehicle has dual wheels or P265/75R16,
LT265/75R16, P265/70R17 or P275/55R20 size
tires, don’t use tire chains. They can damage
your vehicle because there’s not enough
clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without
the proper amount of clearance can cause
damage to the brakes, suspension or other
vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire
chains could cause you to lose control of your
vehicle and you or others may be injured
in a crash.
Use another type of traction device only if its
manufacturer recommends it for use on your
vehicle and tire size combination and road
conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
instructions. To help avoid damage to your
vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the
device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t
spin your wheels.
If you do nd traction devices that will t,
install them on the rear tires.″
Notice:If your vehicle does not have dual wheels
and is equipped with a tire size other than
P265/75R16, LT265/75R16, P265/70R17 or
P275/55R20, use tire chains only where legal and
only when you must. Use chains that are the proper
size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the
rear axle. Don’t use chains on the tires of the front
axle. Tighten them as tightly as possible with
the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow
the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can
hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop
and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow
down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the
wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.
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If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a
few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
5-91

Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes at, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your
hazard warning ashers.
{CAUTION:
Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you
or other people. You and they could be badly
injured or even killed. Find a level place to
change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle
from moving:
1. Set the parking brake rmly.
2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in
PARK (P), or shift a manual transmission to
FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).
3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle,
be sure the transfer case is in a drive
gear—not in NEUTRAL.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
4. Turn off the engine and do not restart
while the vehicle is raised.
5. Do not allow passengers to remain in
the vehicle.
To be even more certain the vehicle won’t
move, you can put blocks at the front and rear
of the tire farthest away from the one being
changed. That would be the tire on the other
side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.
When you have a at tire, use the following as a guide
to assist you in the placement of the wheel blocks.
5-92

The following information will tell you next how to use
the jack and change a tire.
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
Regular Cab and Crew Cab (Except 1500 Crew Cab)
5-93

For regular cab models, the equipment you’ll need is
behind the passenger’s seat. For extended and
crew cab models, the equipment is on the shelf behind
the passenger’s side second row seat.
1. If there is a cover, move the seats forward and turn
the wing nut on the cover counterclockwise to
remove it. For crew cab models, pull up the
second row seat with the loop at the base of the
seat cushion to access the tools.
2. Turn the knob on the bottle jack counterclockwise
to lower the jack head to release the bottle jack
from its holder. Extended Cab
1500 Crew Cab
5-94

3. Remove the wheel blocks and the wheel block
retainer by turning the wing nut counterclockwise.
4. Remove the wing nut used to retain the storage
bag and tools by turning it counterclockwise.
You’ll use the jack handle extensions and the wheel
wrench to remove the underbody-mounted spare tire.
A. Spare Tire (Valve Stem Pointed Down)
B. Hoist Assembly
C. Hoist Cable
D. Tire RetainerE. Hoist Shaft
F. Hoist End of Extension Tool
G. Hoist Shaft Access Hole
H. Wheel Wrench
I. Jack Handle Extensions
J. Hoist Lock (If Equipped)
1. Open the spare tire lock cover on the bumper and
use the ignition key to remove the lock (if your
vehicle is equipped with a hoist lock (J)).
2. Assemble the wheel wrench (H) and the two jack
handle extensions (I) as shown.
5-95

3. Insert the hoist end
(open end) (F) of the
extension through
the hole (G) in the
rear bumper.
Be sure the hoist end of the extension connects to the
hoist shaft (E). The ribbed square end of the extension
is used to lower the spare tire.
4. Turn the wheel wrench (H) counterclockwise to
lower the spare tire to the ground. Continue to
turn the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be
pulled out from under the vehicle.
If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the
secondary latch is engaged causing the tire
not to lower. SeeSecondary Latch System on
page 5-105.5. Use the wheel wrench
hook which allows you
to pull the hoist
cable towards you to
assist in reaching
the spare tire.
6. Tilt the retainer (D) at
the end of the cable
when the tire has been
lowered, so it can
be pulled up through
the wheel opening.
7. Put the spare tire near the at tire.
5-96