check engine JEEP CHEROKEE 1995 Service User Guide

This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion gear shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft
²Missing drive shaft balance weight
²Worn, out-of-balance wheels
²Loose wheel lug nuts
²Worn U-joint
²Loose spring U-bolts
²Loose/broken springs
²Damaged axle shaft bearings
²Loose pinion gear nut
²Excessive pinion yoke run out
²Bent axle shaft
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rear-end vi-
bration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined be-
fore starting any repair.
Refer to Group 22, Wheels and Tires for additional
information.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts
²Worn U-joints
²Loose spring mounts
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke
²Excessive ring gear backlash
²Excessive side gear\ase clearance
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the ve-
hicle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate.
Instruct the helper to shift the transmission into
gear. Listen for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is
helpful in isolating the source of a noise.
REAR AXLE ALIGNMENT
MEASUREMENT
The following procedure can be used to determine
if abnormal rear tire tread wear is the result of a
bent or deformed rear axle shaft.
(1) Raise both rear wheels off the surface with a
frame contact hoist.
(2) Attach a one-inch long piece of masking tape at
the center of each tire tread for use as reference marks.
(3) Rotate the rear wheels until both reference
marks face the front of the vehicle. Measure the dis-
tance between the outside edges of the two pieces of
tape. Record this measurement as the front of tire
(FTR) measurement.
(4) Rotate the rear wheels until both reference
marks face the rear of the vehicle. Measure the dis-
tance between the outside edges of the two pieces of
tape. Record this measurement as the rear of tire
(RTR) measurement.
(5) Subtract the (RTR) measurement from the
(FTR) measurement to obtain the amount of wheel
toe. The acceptable rear wheel toe-in position is 1/16
inch (1.6 mm) to 3/16 inch (4.8 mm) toe-out.
(6) Rotate the rear wheels until the reference
marks are facing downward. Measure the distance
between the outside edges of the two pieces of tape.
Record this measurement as the bottom of tire (BTR)
measurement.
(7) Average the (FTR) and the (RTR) distance mea-
surements. Subtract the (BTR) measurement from
this average distance to obtain the camber. The ac-
ceptable amount of camber is 1/16 inch to 3/32 inch
(1.6 to 2.4 mm).
(FTR + RTR) DIVIDED BY 2 (TWO) MINUS
BTR EQUALS CAMBER
If the (BTR) distance measurement is less
than the average FTR and RTR distance mea-
surement, the camber will be positive(+).If
the (BTR) distance measurement is greater
than the average FTR and RTR distance, the
camber will be negative(-).
If the toe position or camber is not acceptable, a bent
or deformed rear axle shaft is most likely the cause.
LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
Under normal traction conditions, engine torque is di-
vided evenly. With low-traction surfaces, engine torque
is transferred to the wheel with the most tire traction.
When diagnosing a limited-slip differential the wheel
with the least traction can continue spinning.
The most common problem is a chatter noise when
turning corners. Check for incorrect or contaminated
lubricant. Replace the gear lubricant if necessary.
²With Trac-LokŸ differentials add a container of
MOPAR Trac-Lok Lubricant.
This will correct the condition in most instances. If
the chatter persists, clutch damage could have oc-
curred.
After changing the lubricant, drive the vehicle and
make 10 to 12 slow, figure-eight turns. This maneu-
ver will pump lubricant through the clutches.
3 - 10 REAR SUSPENSION AND AXLESJ

LUBRICANT SPECIFICATIONS
Multi-purpose, hypoid gear lubricant should be
used in the 8 1/4 inch axle. The lubricant should
have MIL-L-2105C and API GL 5 quality specifica-
tions. MOPARtHypoid Gear Lubricant conforms to
both of these specifications.
²The factory installed lubricant for the 8 1/4 inch
rear axle is SAE 80W 90 gear lubricant.
²The factory installed lubricant quantity is 6762
fluid oz.
CAUTION: Overfilling the differential can result in
lubricant foaming and overheating.
Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance for
additional information.
CAUTION: If axle is submerged in water, lubricant
must be replaced immediately to avoid possible
premature axle failure.
DRIVE AXLE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENTÐXJ
VEHICLES
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle. Position support stands un-
der the frame rails slightly in front the springs.
(2) Remove the rear wheels.
(3) Mark the drive shaft yoke and axle pinion yoke
for alignment reference. Disconnect the drive shaft
from the axle.
(4) Disconnect the axle vent hose.
(5) Disconnect the parking brake cables at the
equalizer or backing plate.
(6) Disconnect the shock absorbers from the axle
brackets.
(7) Disconnect the brake hose at the axle junction
block.Do not disconnect the wheel cylinder tub-
ing fittings.
(8) If equipped, disconnect ABS wiring connections
at the axle.
(9) Support the axle with a hydraulic jack under
the differential.
(10) Remove the spring U-bolts from the plate
brackets.
(11) Lower the jack enough to remove the axle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber
bushings should be tightened with the vehicle at
normal height. It is important to have the springs
supporting the weight of the vehicle when the fas-
teners are torqued. If springs are not at their normal
ride position, vehicle ride comfort could be affected
and premature bushing wear may occur. Rubber
bushings must never be lubricated.(1) Support the axle on a hydraulic jack under the
differential. Position the axle under the vehicle.
(2) Raise the axle and align the spring center bolts
with the locating holes in the axle pads and plate
brackets.
(3) Install the spring U-bolts through the plate
brackets and tighten to 70 Nzm (52 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install ABS wiring connections (if equipped) at
the axle.
(5) Connect the brake hose at the axle junction
block.
(6) Install the shock absorbers to the axle brackets
and tighten to 62 Nzm (46 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Connect the parking brake cables at the equal-
izer or backing plate.
(8) Connect the vent hose to the tube fitting.
(9) Align the reference marks and connect the
drive shaft to the axle yoke. Tighten the U-joint
clamp bolts to 19 Nzm (14 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Check differential lubricant and add if neces-
sary.
(11) Install the wheel and tire.
(12) Bleed the brakes.
(13) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
LUBRICANT CHANGE
The gear lubricant will drain quicker if the vehicle
has been recently driven.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the lubricant fill hole plug from the dif-
ferential housing cover.
(3) Remove the differential housing cover and
drain the lubricant from the housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.
(5) Remove the sealant from the housing and cover
surfaces. Use solvent to clean the mating surfaces.
(6) Apply a bead of MOPARtSilicone Rubber Seal-
ant to the housing cover (Fig. 2). Allow the sealant to
cure for a few minutes.
Install the housing cover within 5 minutes after
applying the sealant. If not installed the sealant
must be removed and another bead applied.
(7) Install the cover and any identification tag.
Tighten the cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 47
Nzm (35 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Refill the differential with Mopar Hypoid Gear
Lubricant 13 mm (1/2 in.) below the fill plug hole.
With Trac-Lok differentials, add a container of Mopar
Hypoid Gear Lubricant Additive.
CAUTION: Overfilling the differential can result in
lubricant foaming and overheating.
(9) Install the fill hole plug and lower the vehicle.
JREAR SUSPENSION AND AXLES 3 - 31

hand lever. Also note if vehicle was being operated
with parking brake partially applied (this will cause
red light to remain on).
(7) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for be-
ing loose or for bind condition. Do not road test until
condition is corrected.
(8) If components inspected look OK, road test ve-
hicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If amber warning light is on, problem is with
antilock system component. Refer to antilock diagno-
sis section.
(2) If red warning light is not on, proceed to step
(4).
(3) If red warning light is on, proceed as follows:
(a) See if parking brakes are applied. If brakes
are applied, release them and proceed to step (4).
(b) Note if brake pedal is abnormally low. If
pedal is definitely low and red light is still on,
check front/rear hydraulic circuits for leak.Do not
road test. Inspect and repair as needed.
(4) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under steady foot pressure. If pedal falls away,
do not road test as problem is in master cylinder, or
HCU on ABS models. If pedal holds firm, proceed to
next step.
(5) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-35 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as hard pedal, pull, grab, drag, noise, fade,
etc.
(6) Return to shop and inspect brake components.
Refer to inspection and diagnosis information.
COMPONENT INSPECTION
Fluid leak points and dragging brake units can
usually be located without removing any components.
The area around a leak point will be wet with fluid.
The components at a dragging brake unit (wheel,
tire, rotor) will be quite warm or hot to the touch.
Other brake problem conditions will require compo-
nent removal for proper inspection. Raise the vehicle
and remove the necessary wheels for better visual ac-
cess.
During component inspection, pay particular atten-
tion to heavily rusted/corroded brake components
(e.g. rotors, caliper pistons, brake return/holddown
springs, support plates, etc.).
Heavy accumulations of rust may be covering se-
vere damage to a brake component. It is wise to re-
move surface rust in order to accurately determine
the depth of rust penetration and damage. Light sur-
face rust is fairly normal and not a major concern (as
long as it is removed). However, heavy rust buildup,especially on high mileage vehicles may cover struc-
tural damage to such important components as
brakelines, rotors, support plates, and brake boost-
ers. Refer to the wheel brake service procedures in
this group for more information.
BRAKE WARNING LIGHT OPERATION
The red brake warning light will illuminate under
the following conditions:
²for 2-3 seconds at startup as part of normal bulb
check
²when parking brakes are applied
²low pedal caused by leak in front/rear brake hy-
draulic circuit
If the red light remains on after startup, first ver-
ify that the parking brakes are fully released. Then
check pedal action and fluid level. A red light plus
low pedal indicates the pressure differential switch
and valve have been actuated due to a system leak.
On models with ABS brakes, the amber warning
light only illuminates when an ABS malfunction has
occurred. The ABS light operates independently of
the red warning light.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brakeline, fitting, hose,
wheel cylinder, or caliper. Internal leakage in the
master cylinder caused by worn or damaged piston
cups, may also be the problem cause.
If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or
around the leaking component. However internal
leakage in the master cylinder will not be physically
evident. Refer to the cylinder test procedure at the
end of this section.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, worn lining
and worn rotors or drums are the most likely causes.
However, if the pedal remains low and the red warn-
ing light is on, the likely cause is a leak in the hy-
draulic system.
A decrease in master cylinder fluid level may only
be the result of normal lining wear. Fluid level will
drop somewhat as lining wear occurs. It is a result of
the outward movement of caliper and wheel cylinder
pistons to compensate for normal wear.
SPONGY PEDAL
Air in the system is the usual cause of a spongy
pedal. Brake drums machined way beyond allowable
limits (too thin), or substandard brake lines and
hoses can also cause a condition similar to a spongy
JSERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSIS 5 - 5

pedal. The proper course of action is to bleed the sys-
tem, or replace thin drums and suspect quality brake
lines and hoses.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to lin-
ing that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty. Test the booster and valve as described
in this section.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only. It is a
product of incomplete brakeshoe release. Drag can be
minor or severe enough to overheat the linings, ro-
tors and drums. A drag condition also worsens as
temperature of the brake parts increases.
Brake drag also has a direct effect on fuel economy.
If undetected, minor brake drag can be misdiagnosed
as an engine or transmission/torque converter prob-
lem.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat/cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In se-
vere cases, the lining may generate smoke as it chars
from overheating.
An additional cause of drag involves the use of in-
correct length caliper mounting bolts. Bolts that are
too long can cause a partial apply condition. The cor-
rect caliper bolts have a shank length of 67 mm
(2.637 in.), plus or minus 0.6 mm (0.0236 in.). Refer
to the Disc Brake service section for more detail on
caliper bolt dimensions and identification.
Some common causes of brake drag are:
²loose or damaged wheel bearing
²seized or sticking caliper or wheel cylinder piston
²caliper binding on bolts or slide surfaces
²wrong length caliper mounting bolts (too long)
²loose caliper mounting bracket
²distorted rotor, brake drum, or shoes
²brakeshoes binding on worn/damaged support
plates
²severely rusted/corroded components
²misassembled components.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem may
be related to a blocked master cylinder compensatorport or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
The condition will worsen as brake temperature in-
creases.
The brakelight switch can also be a cause of drag.
An improperly mounted or adjusted brakelight
switch can prevent full brake pedal return. The re-
sult will be the same as if the master cylinder com-
pensator ports are blocked. The brakes would be
partially applied causing drag.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is a product of overheating caused by
brake drag. However, overheating and subsequent
fade can also be caused by riding the brake pedal,
making repeated high deceleration stops in a short
time span, or constant braking on steep roads. Refer
to the Brake Drag information in this section for
causes.
PEDAL PULSATION (NON-ABS BRAKES ONLY)
Pedal pulsation is caused by parts that are loose,
or beyond tolerance limits. This type of pulsation is
constant and will occur every time the brakes are ap-
plied.
Disc brake rotors with excessive lateral runout or
thickness variation, or out of round brake drums are
the primary causes of pulsation.
On vehicles with ABS brakes, remember that pedal
pulsation is normal during antilock mode brake
stops. If pulsation occurs during light to moderate
brake stops, a standard brake part is either loose, or
worn beyond tolerance.
BRAKE PULL
A front pull condition could be the result of:
²contaminated lining in one caliper
²seized caliper piston
²binding caliper
²wrong caliper mounting bolts (too long)
²loose caliper
²loose or corroded mounting bolts
²improper brakeshoes
²damaged rotor
²incorrect wheel bearing adjustment (at one wheel)
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension com-
ponent are further causes of pull. A damaged front
tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
Wrong caliper bolts (too long) will cause a partial ap-
ply condition and pull if only one caliper is involved.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at the dragging brake unit.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so re-
duced that fade occurs. If the opposite brake unit is
still functioning normally, its braking effect is magni-
5 - 6 SERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSISJ

produce a condition similar to grab as the tire loses
and recovers traction.
Flat-spotted tires can cause vibration and wheel
tramp and generate shudder during brake operation.
A tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise
or ply separation can cause vibration and pull. The
pull will be magnified when braking.
DIAGNOSING PARKING BRAKE MALFUNCTIONS
Adjustment Mechanism
Parking brake adjustment is controlled by a ca-
ble tensioner mechanism. The cable tensioner,
once adjusted at the factory, will not need further
attention under normal circumstances. There are
only two instances when adjustment is required.
The first is when a new tensioner, or cables have
been installed. And the second, is when the ten-
sioner and cables are disconnected for access to
other brake components.
Parking Brake Switch And Warning Light Illumination
The parking brake switch on the lever, or foot
pedal, is in circuit with the red warning light. The
switch will illuminate the red light only when the
parking brakes are applied. If the light remains on
after parking brake release, the switch or wires are
faulty, or cable tensioner adjustment is incorrect.
If the red light comes on while the vehicle is in mo-
tion and brake pedal height decreases, a fault has oc-
curred in the front or rear brake hydraulic system.
Parking Brake problem Causes
In most cases, the actual cause of an improperly
functioning parking brake (too loose/too tight/wont
hold), can be traced to a drum brake component.
The leading cause of improper parking brake
operation, is excessive clearance between the
brakeshoes and the drum surface. Excessive
clearance is a result of: lining and/or drum
wear; oversize drums; or inoperative shoe ad-
juster components.
Excessive parking brake lever travel (sometimes de-
scribed as a loose lever or too loose condition), is the re-
sult of worn brakeshoes/drums, improper brakeshoe
adjustment, or incorrectly assembled brake parts.
A ``too loose'' condition can also be caused by inop-
erative brakeshoe adjusters. If the adjusters are mis-
assembled, they will not function. In addition, since
the adjuster mechanism only works during reverse
stops, it is important that complete stops be made.
The adjuster mechanism does not operate when roll-
ing stops are made in reverse. The vehicle must be
brought to a complete halt before the adjuster lever
will turn the adjuster screw.
A condition where the parking brakes do not hold, will
most probably be due to a wheel brake component.
Items to look for when diagnosing a parking brake
problem, are:
²rear brakeshoe wear or adjuster problem
²rear brake drum wear
²brake drums machined beyond allowable diameter
(oversize)
²parking brake front cable not secured to lever
²parking brake rear cable seized
²parking brake strut reversed
²parking brake strut not seated in both shoes
²parking brake lever not seated in secondary shoe
²parking brake lever or brakeshoe bind on support
plate
²brakeshoes reversed
²adjuster screws seized
²adjuster screws reversed
²holddown or return springs misassembled or lack
tension
²wheel cylinder pistons seized
Brake drums that are machined oversize are diffi-
cult to identify without inspection. If oversize drums
are suspected, diameter of the braking surface will
have to be checked with an accurate drum gauge.
Oversize drums will cause low brake pedal and lack
of parking brake holding ability.
Improper parking brake strut and lever installation
will result in unsatisfactory parking brake operation.
Intermixing the adjuster screws will cause drag, bind
and pull along with poor parking brake operation.
Parking brake adjustment and parts replacement pro-
cedures are described in the Parking Brake section.
MASTER CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER TEST
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. Hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure.
(a) If pedal holds firm, proceed to step (5).
(b) If pedal does not hold firm and falls away,
master cylinder is faulty due to internal leakage.
Overhaul or replace cylinder.
(5) Start engine and note pedal action.
(a) If pedal falls away slightly under light foot
pressure then holds firm, proceed to step (6).
(b) If no pedal action is discernible, or hard pedal
is noted, power booster or vacuum check valve is
faulty. Install known good check valve and repeat
steps (2) through (5).
(6) Rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows: Re-
lease brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close throttle and immediately turn off ignition.
5 - 8 SERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSISJ

(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, perform booster and check valve vac-
uum tests.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and seal from booster (Fig.
1).
(3) Hand operated vacuum pump can be used for
test (Fig. 2).
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 1).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates any vacuum loss, valve is faulty and must
be replaced.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect a vacuum gauge to the booster check
valve with a short length of hose and tee fitting (Fig.
3).(2) Start and run engine at idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Pinch hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve (Fig. 3).
(4) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(5) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
Fig. 1 Typical Vacuum Check Valve And Seal
Fig. 2 Typical Hand Operated Vacuum Pump
Fig. 3 Booster Vacuum Test Connections
JSERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSIS 5 - 9

POWER BRAKE BOOSTER OPERATION
Booster Components
The booster assembly consists of a housing divided
into separate chambers by two internal diaphragms
(Fig. 2). The outer edge of each diaphragm is at-
tached to the booster housing. The diaphragms are
connected to the booster primary push rod.
Two push rods are used in the booster. The primary
push rod connects the booster to the brake pedal. The
secondary push rod connects the booster to the mas-
ter cylinder to stroke the cylinder pistons.
The atmospheric inlet valve is opened and closed
by the primary push rod. Booster vacuum supply is
through a hose attached to an intake manifold fitting
at one end and to the booster check valve at the
other. The vacuum check valve in the booster housing
is a one-way device that prevents vacuum leak back.How Brake Boost Is Generated
Power assist is generated by utilizing the pressure
differential between normal atmospheric pressure
and a vacuum. The vacuum needed for booster oper-
ation is taken directly from the engine intake mani-
fold. The entry point for atmospheric pressure is
through a filter and inlet valve at the rear of the
housing (Fig. 3).
The chamber areas forward of the booster dia-
phragms are exposed to vacuum from the intake
manifold. The chamber areas to the rear of the dia-
phragms, are exposed to normal atmospheric pres-
sure of 101.3 kilopascals (14.7 pounds/square in.).
Brake pedal application causes the primary push
rod to open the atmospheric inlet valve. This exposes
the area behind the diaphragms to atmospheric pres-
sure. The resulting pressure differential provides the
extra apply pressure for power assist.
Fig. 2 Brake Booster/Master Cylinder Assembly (YJ)
JPOWER BRAKE BOOSTERÐBRAKE PEDALÐBRAKELIGHT SWITCH 5 - 23

(16) Install combination valve as follows:
(a) Work combination valve and brakelines into
position.
(b) Slide combination valve bracket onto booster
stud closest to driver side fender (Fig. 25). Then in-
stall bracket attaching nut but do not fully tighten
nut at this time.
(c) Connect flex lines to HCU. Start lines by
hand to avoid cross threading.
(17) Swing rear brakeline around and connect it to
master cylinder. Then install and connect front
brakeline to combination valve and master cylinder.
Start brakelines by hand to avoid cross threading.
(18) Tighten combination valve bracket attaching
nut to 25 Nzm (220 in. lbs.) torque.
(19) Install clip on lines from master cylinder to
combination valve.
(20) Connect wire to pressure differential switch
on combination valve.
(21) Connect flex lines to HCU (Fig. 10). Start line
fittings by hand to avoid cross threading. Then
tighten fittings snug but not to required torque at
this time.(22) Bleed brakes. Refer to procedure in Brake
Fluid-Brake Bleeding-Brakelines And Hoses section.
(23) Tighten brakeline fittings to 15-18 Nzm (130-
160 in. lbs.) at HCU and master cylinder, and 18-24
Nzm (160-210 in. lbs.) at combination valve.
(24) Install air cleaner assembly.
(25) Connect vacuum lines to manifold fittings.
(26) Check brake pedal action before moving vehi-
cle. Bleed brakes again if pedal is not firm (feels soft/
spongy).POWER BRAKE BOOSTER REMOVAL (XJ WITHOUT
ABS)
(1) Disconnect vent and vacuum hose from engine
air cleaner cover.
(2) Remove engine air cleaner cover, filter, housing
and hoses (Fig. 4).
(3) Disconnect brakelines at master cylinder.
(4) Disconnect wire at combination valve differen-
tial pressure switch.
(5) If combination valve does not have an integral
bracket, disconnect brakelines at combination valve
and remove valve.
(6) If combination valve has integral bracket, re-
move nut attaching valve bracket to booster studs
and remove valve.
(7) Remove nuts attaching master cylinder to
booster studs and remove cylinder.
(8) Disconnect vacuum hose from booster check
valve.
(9) In passenger compartment, remove instrument
panel lower trim cover.
(10) Remove retaining clip that secures booster
push rod to brake pedal (Fig. 5).
Fig. 23 HCU And Bracket Mounting (RHD Models)
Fig. 24 Starting Brakelines In HCU
Fig. 25 Combination Valve Installation
JPOWER BRAKE BOOSTERÐBRAKE PEDALÐBRAKELIGHT SWITCH 5 - 29

(11) Remove nuts attaching booster to passenger
compartment side of dash panel.
(12) In engine compartment, slide booster studs
out of dash panel, tilt booster upward, and remove
booster from engine compartment.
(13) Remove dash seal from booster.
(14) If booster is only being removed for access to
other components, cover booster front opening with
clean shop towel.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER INSTALLATION (XJ
WITHOUT ABS)
(1) If original booster is being installed, test check
valve with vacuum tool before booster installation.
Replace check valve if it will not hold vacuum.
(2) Install dash seal on booster.
(3) Align and position booster on dash panel (Fig.
17).
(4) In passenger compartment, install nuts that at-
tach booster to dash panel. Tighten nuts just enough
to hold booster in place.
(5) Slide booster push rod onto brake pedal. Then
secure push rod to pedal pin with retaining clip.
(6) Tighten booster attaching nuts to 41 Nzm (30 ft.
lbs.) on XJ and 34 Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) on YJ.
(7) Install instrument panel lower trim cover.
(8) If original master cylinder is being installed,
check condition of seal at rear of master cylinder
(Fig. 18). Clean and reposition seal if dislodged. Re-
place seal if cut, or torn.
(9) Clean cylinder mounting surface of brake
booster. Use shop towel wetted with brake cleaner for
this purpose. Dirt, grease, or similar materials will
prevent proper cylinder seating and could result in
vacuum leak.
(10) Align and install master cylinder on booster
studs. Tighten cylinder attaching nuts to 13-25 Nzm
(115-220 in. lbs.) torque.
(11) Connect vacuum hose to booster check valve.
(12) Connect and secure brakelines to combination
valve and master cylinder. Start all brakeline fittings
by hand to avoid cross threading.
(13) If combination valve has integral bracket, po-
sition bracket on booster studs. Then install and
tighten bracket attaching nuts to 13-25 Nzm (115-220
in. lbs.) torque.
(14) Connect wire to combination valve switch.
(15) Top off master cylinder fluid level.
(16) Bleed brakes. Refer to procedures in section
on brake bleeding.
(17) Install engine air cleaner and hoses.
(18) Verify proper brake operation before moving
vehicle.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER REMOVAL (YJ)
(1) Disconnect brakelines at master cylinder. Then
loosen lines at combination valve and move lines
away from cylinder.
(2) Remove nuts master cylinder to booster studs.
(3) If combination valve has integral bracket, slide
bracket off studs and move valve aside.
(4) Remove master cylinder. Slide cylinder off
studs and remove it from engine compartment.
(5) Working under instrument panel, remove re-
tainer clip that secures booster push rod to brake
pedal.
(6) Disconnect vacuum hose at booster check valve.
(7) On non-ABS models, remove nuts attaching
brake booster spacer to dash panel and remove
booster (Fig. 26).
(8) On ABS models, remove nuts attaching booster
to spacer and remove booster (Fig. 27).
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER INSTALLATION (YJ)
(1) Install seal on booster spacer, if equipped.
(2) Position booster on dash panel, or on spacer.
(3) Secure booster push rod to brake pedal with re-
taining clip.
(4) Install and tighten booster attaching nuts to
27-47 Nzm (20-35 ft. lbs.) torque. Nut torque applies
to both styles of booster.
Fig. 26 Booster Mounting (4-Cyl. Models)
Fig. 27 Booster Mounting (With ABS)
5 - 30 POWER BRAKE BOOSTERÐBRAKE PEDALÐBRAKELIGHT SWITCHJ

air gap should be 0.40 to 1.3 mm (0.0157 to 0.051
in.). If gap is incorrect, the sensor is either loose, or
damaged.
A rear sensor air gap adjustment is only needed
when reinstalling an original sensor. Replacement
sensors have an air gap spacer attached to the sensor
pickup face. The spacer establishes correct air gap
when pressed against the tone ring during installa-
tion. As the tone ring rotates, it peels the spacer off
the sensor to create the required air gap. Rear sensor
air gap is 0.92-1.45 mm (0.036-0.057 in.).
Sensor air gap measurement, or adjustment proce-
dures are provided in this section. Refer to the front,
or rear sensor removal and installation procedures as
required.
FRONT WHEEL SENSOR REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and turn wheel outward for easier
access to sensor.
(2) Remove sensor wire from mounting brackets.
(3) Clean sensor and surrounding area with shop
towel before removal.
(4) Remove bolt attaching sensor to steering
knuckle and remove sensor.
(5) remove sensor wire from brackets on body and
steering knuckle.
(6) Unseat sensor wire grommet in wheel house
panel.
(7) In engine compartment, disconnect sensor wire
connector at harness plug. Then remove sensor and
wire.
FRONT WHEEL SENSOR INSTALLATION
(1) Iforiginalsensor will be installed, wipe all
traces of old spacer material off sensor pickup face.
Use a dry shop towel for this purpose.
(2) Apply Mopar Lock N' Seal or Loctite 242 to bolt
that secures sensor in steering knuckle. Use new
sensor bolt if original bolt is worn or damaged.
(3) Position sensor on steering knuckle. Seat sen-
sor locating tab in hole in knuckle and install sensor
attaching bolt finger tight.
(4) Tighten sensor attaching bolt to 14 Nzm (11 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(5) If original sensor has been installed, check sen-
sor air gap. Air gap should be 0.40 to 1.3 mm (0.0157
to 0.051 in.). If gap is incorrect, sensor is either loose,
or damaged.
(6) Secure sensor wire to steering knuckle and
body brackets.
(7) Route sensor wire forward and behind shock
absorber. Then attach sensor wire to spring seat
bracket with grommets on sensor wire.
(8) Route sensor wire to outer sill bracket. Remove
all twists or kinks from wire.
(9) Attach sensor wire to sill bracket with grom-
met. Be sure wire is free of twists and kinks.(10) Verify sensor wire routing. Wire should loop
forward and above sill bracket. Loose end of wire
should be below sill bracket and towards brake hose.
(11) Seat sensor wire grommet in body panel and
clip wire to brake line at grommet location.
(12) Connect sensor wire to harness in engine com-
partment.
REAR WHEEL SENSOR REMOVAL
(1) On XJ models, raise and fold rear seat forward
for access to rear sensor connectors (Fig. 9).
(2) Disconnect sensors at rear harness connectors.
(3) Push sensor grommets and sensor wires
through floorpan.
(4) Raise vehicle.
(5) Disconnect sensor wires at rear axle connectors.
(6) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(7) Remove brake drum.
(8) Remove clips securing sensor wires to brake-
lines, rear axle and, brake hose.
(9) Unseat sensor wire support plate grommet.
(10) Remove bolt attaching sensor to bracket and
remove sensor.
REAR WHEEL SENSOR INSTALLATION AND
ADJUSTMENT
(1) Iforiginal sensoris being installed, remove
any remaining pieces of cardboard spacer from sen-
sor pickup face. Use dry shop towel only to remove
old spacer material.
(2) Insert sensor wire through support plate hole.
Then seat sensor grommet in support plate.
(3) Apply Mopar Lock N' Seal or Loctite 242 to
Fig. 9 Acceleration Switch And Rear Sensor
Connections (XJ)
5 - 38 ABS OPERATION AND SERVICEJ