key JEEP CJ 1953 User Guide

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
Lubricate
the connecting rod bearing surfaces
generously with
engine
oil and install the bearing
cap with the numbered side matched to the num­
bered side of the connecting rod. Torque the nuts
evenly 35 to 45 lb-ft. [4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.]. The con­
necting rod cap nuts are locked with stamped nuts.

Used
stamped nuts should be discarded and re­
placed with new
ones.
These locking stamped nuts
should be installed with the flat face toward the
connecting rod nut.
Turn
the locking nut finger
tight and then 34
turn
more with a wrench. Refer
to Par. D-36 for detailed information on fitting pistons and rings in the cylinder bores.

D-96.
Install
Crankshaft
Pulley

Align
the keyway in the pulley with the woodruff key installed in the crankshaft. Drive the pulley

onto
the crankshaft and secure it in place with
the crankshaft pulley nut. Insert a block of wood

between
one of the counterweights on the
crank­

shaft and the side of the cylinder block to prevent the crankshaft from turning, then tighten the nut.

D-97.
Install
Oil Pan
Before installing the oil pan, make a final internal
inspection particularly making certain that the
inside of the cylinder block is clean. Apply a thin
coat of gasket paste on the oil pan. Place the new

oil
pan gasket in position. Set the oil pan in posi­
tion on the cylinder block and install the oil pan.
Torque
the attaching
bolts
12 to 15 lb-ft. [1,7 a 2,1

kg-m.].
Install
the oil pan
drain
plug and gasket

and
tighten the plug securely.

D-98.
Install
Cylinder
Head

Make
certain that the entire top of the cylinder

block
assembly, the lower surface of the cylinder

head,
and the cylinder head gasket are clean. Blow

all
dirt
or carbon out of the blind tapped bolt
holes

in
the cylinder block before the cylinder head and gasket are installed. Using aerosol spray sealer

Part
No. 994757, spray a thincoat on both surfaces
of the head gasket, position the new cylinder head gasket with the crimped
edges
of the gasket metal down (See Fig. D-31).
This
gasket position allows a
positive seal along the narrow surfaces of the
cylin­

der
head
between
the combustion chambers and
eliminates the possibility of burning combustion
10102

FIG.
D-41—CYLINDER
HEAD
BOLT
TIGHTENING
SEQUENCE
gases
reaching
an
asbestos
portion of the cylinder
head gasket.
Install
the cylinder head bolts. Tighten

the
bolts
with a torque wrench to 60 to 70 lb-ft. 8,3 a 9,7
kg-m.]
in the sequence shown in
Fig.
D-41.
Do not overlook installing the cylinder head bolt

in
the intake
manifold
directly under the
car­

buretor
opening.

D-99.
Install
Rocker Arm Assembly

a.
Insert
ball
ends of the intake valve push rods through the cylinder head and cylinder block and
seat them in the cupped head of the intake valve
tappets.

b.
Install
the
rocker-arm
assembly on the 'four

rocker-arm-mounting
studs. Align the rocker arms
so that the
ball
ends of the intake valve tappet

adjusting
screws fit into the cup ends of the push
rods.

c.
Install
the four rocker-arm-attaching nuts.
Thread
each nut down evenly in sequence, one

turn
at a time, until the torque is 30 to 36 lb-ft. [4,1 a 5,0 kg-m.].

d.
Cement a new gasket on the rocker arm cover.
Install
the cover placing an oil seal then a flat

washer
and nut on each cover stud. Cement a new gasket on the exhaust valve cover.
Install
the cover and crankcase ventilation fittings using a
new gasket back of the vent cover and new copper
ring
gaskets under the attaching screw heads.

Torque
the valve tappet cover nuts 7 to 10 lb-ft. [1,0 a 1,4 kg-m.].
D-100.
Install
Distributor and
Spark
Plugs

To
correctly install the distributor, it
will
be neces­

sary
to place No. 1 piston in the firing position.
To
locate the firing position of No. 1 piston, first

turn
the
engine
until No. 1 piston is moving up on
the compression stroke as indicated by compression

pressure
being forced through the
spark
plug open­

ing.
Turn
the
engine
slowly until the 5° before top
center
mark
on the timing gear cover is in align­
ment with the
mark
on the crankshaft pulley. Oil
the distributor housing where it bears on the
cylin­
der
block and install the distributor. Mount the

rotor
on distributor shaft and
turn
the shaft until
the rotor points towards No. 1
spark
plug terminal
tower position (when cap is installed, about 5
o'clock) with the contact points just breaking.
Move the rotor back and forth slightly until the

driving
lug on the end of the shaft enters the slot cut in the oil pump gear and slide the distributor
assembly down into place. Rotate the distributor body until the contact points are just breaking.
Install
the hold down screw.

Connect
the core
primary
wire to the distributor.

Clean
and adjust the
spark
plugs, setting the elec­

trode
gaps
at .030" [0,762 mm.].
Install
the plugs
to prevent any foreign matter entering the com­
bustion chambers during the remaining operations.
Torque
the
spark
plugs 25 to 30 lb-ft. [3,5 a 4,6

kg-m.].

Install
spark
plug cables, placing them in the dis­

tributor
cap terminal towers starting with No. 1

and
installing in a counter clockwise direction of
the firing order sequence (1-3-4-2). 67

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl

©©©©©©©©©

12697

FIG.
Dl-1—DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE, SIDE SECTIONAL VIEW

1—
Fan
Blade
2—
Fan
Spacer

3—Fan
Pulley
4—
Water
Pump 5—
Timing
Chain
Cover
6—
Camshaft
Sprocket
7—
Thermostat
Bypass Hose
8—
Thermostat
Housing
9—
Thermostat

10—
Carburetor

11—
Intake
Manifold
12—
Rocker
Arm Cover 13—
Cylinder
Block 14—
Push
Rod
15—
Camshaft

16—
Flywheel
17—
Clutch
Pressure Plate
18—
Clutch
Driven Plate
19—
Clutch
Pilot Bearing
20—
Oil
Seal Packing
21—
Rear
Main
Bearing Shell
22— Connecting Rods
23—
Rear
Center
Main
Bearing Shell
24—
Oil
Screen
25—
Oil
Screen Pipe and Housing
26—
Oil
Pan 27—
Front
Center
Main
Bearing Shell
28—
Crankshaft

29—
Front
Main
Bearing Shell
30—
Timing
Chain

31—
Crankshaft
Sprocket
32—
Oil
Slinger
33—
Oil
Shedder 34 Oil Shedder Packing
35—
-Woodruff
Key
36—
"Vibration
Damper
37—
Crankshaft
Pulley
38—
Fan
Belt matic adjuster, to prevent lash in the valve operat­
ing linkage. Hydraulic valve lifters also provide

a
cushion of oil to absorb operating shocks. As shown in Fig. Dl-3, all parts of a hydraulic lifter

are
housed in the body, which is the cam follower.

At
the beginning of valve operation, the valve lifter body rests on the camshaft base circle.

Plunger
spring tension prevents lash clearances in the valve linkage.

As
the camshaft forces the valve lifter body up­

ward,
both oil in the lower chamber and check

ball
spring
tension firmly seat the check ball against the plunger to prevent appreciable
loss
of oil from
the lower chamber. Oil pressure forces the plunger
upward,
with the body, to operate the valve linkage.

As
the camshaft rotates to closed-valve position, the valve spring forces the linkage and lifter down­

ward.
When the
engine
valve seats, the linkage

parts
and plunger stop, but the plunger spring forces
the body downward .002" to .003"
[0,050
a
0,076
mm.] until it again rests on the camshaft base

circle.
Oil pressure then forces the check ball away

from
its seat and allows passage of oil past the check ball into the lower chamber.
This
replaces
the slight amount of oil lost by leakage. During
the valve opening and closing operation, a very
slight amount of oil escapes
between
plunger and body, and returns to the crankcase.
This
slight
loss
of oil (leak-down) is beneficial. It provides a
gradual
change of oil in the valve lifter; fresh oil
enters the lower chamber at the end of each cycle
of operation. 77

Dl

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
d.
Use two large screwdrivers to alternately pry
forward the camshaft sprocket and
then
the crank­
shaft sprocket, until the camshaft sprocket is pried
from the camshaft. Remove the camshaft sprocket, sprocket key, and timing chain from the
engine;

then
pry the crankshaft sprocket from the crank­shaft.
Dl-23.
Remove Rocker Arm Cover
Refer to Fig. Dl-8.
Remove
positive
crankcase ventilator valve from right rocker arm cover. Remove four screws which attach each rocker arm cover to cylinder head.
Remove each rocker arm cover and
gasket
from cylinder head. 14198

FIG.
Dl-6—ENGINE
CRANKCASE
PARTS

1— Connecting Rod Assy.
2— —Piston Pin

3—
Piston and Pin Assy.
4—
Ring
Set 5— Connecting Rod
Bolt
and Nut
6— Connecting Rod Bearing
7— Damper Spring
8— Damper
Bolt

9—
Timing
Chain Damper (Right)

10—
Cylinder
Block

11— Camshaft
12—
Woodruff
Key
13— Camshaft Bearing (No. 1 Front) 14— Camshaft Bearing (No. 2)
15— Camshaft Bearing (No. 3) 16—
Camshaft
Bearing (No. 4
Rear)
31-
17—
Camshaft
Plug
(Rear)
32-18—
Flywheel
33-
19—
Ring
Gear
34-
20— Crankshaft Bearing Set 35-
21—
Main
Bearing Oil Seal
(Rear)
36-
2 2—Crankshaft 3 7-
23—
Main
Bearing Packing Oil Seal
(Rear)
28-
24— Bearing Cap
Bolt
39-
25— Woodruff Key 40-
26—
Timing
Chain Damper
(Left)
41-
27— Damper Bolt 42- 28—
Timing
Chain
43-
29—
Camshaft
Sprocket 44-
30— Crankshaft Sprocket
—Crankshaft
Slinger

—Crankshaft
Shedder

—Crankshaft
Packing (Front)

—Timing
Gear
Cover Gasket

—Timing
Gear
Cover

—Vibration
Damper

-Bolt

-Washer

-Bolt

—Dowel Pin

-Camshaft
Thrust
Retainer and Bolt

—Washer

-Distributor
Drive
Gear

—Fuel
Pump Eccentric
82

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl

14028
j

FIG.
D1-7—TIMING
CHAIN
AND
SPROCKET ALIGNMENT 1—
Camshaft Sprocket

2—
Crankshaft
3—Timing
Chain

Timing
Marks
Dl-24.
Remove
Cylinder
Head Assembly

a.
Unscrew, but do not remove, three
bolts
(Fig.

Dl-8)
which attach rocker
arm
assembly to cylinder
head.
Remove rocker arm assembly, with bolts,

from
cylinder head. See Section F2 for
engines

equipped with exhaust emission control.
b. Remove
eight
cylinder head bolts, cylinder head,

and
gasket from cylinder block.

Dl-25.
Remove Push Rod and Valve
Lifter

Refer
to Fig. Dl-8. Remove push rods and valve lifters from the
cylin­

der
block.
Mark,
or otherwise identify, each valve

lifter
according to its cylinder and valve position.

Note:
If valve lifters are not to be serviced, cover
valve lifters and camshaft with a clean cloth to
protect them from dirt

Dl-26.
Remove Camshaft

Refer
to Fig. Dl-6.

Carefully
withdraw camshaft forward from bear­
ing bores; avoid marring the bearing surfaces. Re­

move
camshaft from cylinder block.

Dl-27.
Remove Flywheel Housing and
Clutch

a.
If flywheel housing and clutch was not pre­
viously removed, remove six mounting
bolts
and
flywheel housing from cylinder block.
b.
Mark
clutch cover and flywheel to assure that
clutch
will
be installed in identical position when

engine
is assembled.
c. Remove six attaching screws and clutch assem­
bly from flywheel.
D1-28. Remove Flywheel

Refer
to Fig. Dl-6.
Remove six attaching
bolts
and flywheel from

engine
crankshaft.

Dl-29.
Remove Oil Pan

Refer
to Fig. Dl-5.

To
gain access to oil pan mounting bolts, invert
the
engine.
Remove mounting bolts, oil pan, and gasket from
engine
cylinder block.

Dl-30.
Remove Oil Pump Intake Pipe and Screen

Refer
to Fig. Dl-5.
Remove two attaching screws, and oil pump intake
pipe and screen assembly from
engine
cylinder block.

Dl-31.
Remove Piston and
Connecting
Rod Assembly

a.
Examine the cylinder bores. If bores are worn
so that shoulder or ridges exist at the top of piston

ring
travel, remove the ridges with a ridge reamer.
FIG.
Dl-8-

-CYLINDER HEAD,
AND COVER
ROCKER
ARM
1—
—Right
Rocker
Arm
Cover

2—
Rocker
Arm
Cover
Bolt

3—
Gasket

4—
Bolt
5—
Baffle
6—
Left
Rocker
Arm
Cover
7—
Rocker
Arm Shaft
8—Plug
9—
Rocker
Arm Spring
10—
Cylinder
Head
11—
Head
Gasket

12—
Push
Rod

13—
Valve
Lifter
14—
Intake
Valve

15—
Exhaust
Valve

16—
Dowel
Pin
17—
Valve
Spring 18—
Valve
Spring Cap
19—
Valve
Spring Cap Key

20—
Cotter
Pin
21—
Rocker
Arm Shaft End Washer

22—
Rocker
Arm Shaft Spring

23—
Rocker
Arm
24—
Rocker
Arm Shaft
Bracket

25—
Bolt
83

Dl

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
14262

FIG.
D1-38—TIMING
CHAIN,
TIMING
GEARS
AND
COVER

1—
Crankshaft
Pulley

2—
Crankshaft
Pulley Bolt

3—
Washer

4—
Vibration
Damper 5—
Timing
Gear
Cover

6—
Gasket
7—
Dowel
Pin
g—Woodruff Key

9—Timing
Chain
Damper (Right) 10—
Damper
Bolt

11—
Camshaft
Sprocket

12—
Fuel
Pump
Eccentric

13—
Distributor
Camshaft
Gear
14—
Washer

15—
Special
Bolt 16—
-Thrust
Spring
17—
Thrust
Button 18—
Oil
Shedder
(Crankshaft)

19—
-Crankshaft
Packing
(Front)

20—
-Crankshaft
Slinger •

21—
Crankshaft
Sprocket

22—
Timing
Chain

23—
Damper
Bolt .
2
A
Timing
Chain
Damper
(Left)

25
Spring
D1-84.
Install Timing Chain
and
Sprocket

a.
Turn
crankshaft so that No. 1 piston is at top
center.

b.
Temporarily install sprocket key and camshaft
sprocket on camshaft.
Turn
camshaft so that index

mark
of sprocket is downward. Remove key and sprocket from camshaft.

c.
Assemble timing chain and sprockets.
Install

keys, sprocket, and chain assembly on the camshaft

and
crankshaft so that index marks of both sprockets are aligned as shown in
Fig.
Dl-39.

Note:
It
will
be necessary to hold spring-loaded
timing chain damper out of the way while installing
timing chain and sprocket assembly.
d.
Install
front oil slinger on crankshaft with in­
side diameter against sprocket (concave side to­

ward
front of engine).
e.
Install
fuel pump eccentric on camshaft and key

with
oil
groove
of eccentric forward. See
Fig.
Dl-40.

f.
Install
distributor drive gear on camshaft. Secure gear and eccentric to camshaft with retaining
washer and bolt. Torque
bolt
40 to 55 lb-ft. [5,53
a
7,6 kg-m.].
Install
camshaft thrust retainer as­
sembly
onto
camshaft retaining bolt. Refer to
items
16 and 17 Fig. Dl-38.

Dl-85.
Install Crankshaft Front
Oil
Seal

From
rear
of timing chain cover, coil new packing
around
crankshaft opening at cover so that
ends
100

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

E
is generally caused by excessive
engine
idle speed

in
combination with retarded ignition timing,

engine
heat soak or the use cf low octane fuel.
Should
engine
dieseling
(engine
running after ignition key is turned off) be experienced on V-6

engine
equipped vehicles, installation of Idle Stop
Valve
Kit
Part
No.
991722
will
correct the
difficulty.

E-43.
Fast
Idle Adjustment
No fast idle speed adjustment is required.
Fast

idle is controlled by the curb idle speed adjustment

screw.
If curb idle speed is correctly set and the choke rod is properly adjusted, fast idle speed
will

be correct;

E-44.
Dash Pot Adjustment —
F4
and V-6 Engine

•
Refer to
Figs.
E-27 and E-28. Before adjusting the dash pot, the
engine
idle speed

and
mixture should be correctly adjusted.
With
the

engine
idling at normal operating temperature,
adjust
the dash pot as follows:

The
dash pot adjustment is made with the throttle
set at curb idle (not fast idle). Loosen dash pot lock
nut and
turn
the dash pot assembly until dash pot
plunger contacts the throttle lever without the plunger being depressed.
Then
turn
the dash pot
assembly 2turns against the throttle lever, de­ pressing the dash pot plunger. Tighten the lock nut
securely. As a final check, open carburetor and
allow throttle to snap closed. Time dash pot delay­ ing action from the point where the throttle lever
hits the dash pot to the point where the lever
stops

moving. The dash pot should delay or cushion
closing action for two seconds by saying, "One
thousand and one, one thousand and two."
14204

FIG.
E-27—DASH
POT
ADJUSTMENT—V6
ENGINE
1—
Throttle
Lever
3—Dash Pot
2—
Plunger
4—Lock
Nut
E-45.
FUEL
PUMP
(DOUBLE-ACTION)
—

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

•
Early
Models

The
double-action fuel pump consists of a metal
body, a rubber diaphragm, rocker arm, valves,
FIG.
E-28—DASH
POT
ADJUSTMENT—F4
ENGINE

1—
Throttle
Lever
3—Dash Pot
2—
Plunger
4—Lock
Nut springs, gaskets, and a glass sediment bowl complete

with
strainer.
The
metal pump body provides
a
work­
ing housing for the diaphragm, lever, valves, and springs. The fuel pump is mounted on the left side
of the
engine
and is actuated by an eccentric on the
camshaft. An air
dome
is cast into the metal cover
to relieve the carburetor
needle
valve and the fuel
pump diaphragm of excessive pressure when the

carburetor
needle
valve is closed.

Tracing
pump operation from the beginning, the
camshaft eccentric forces the diaphragm up, over­
coming spring pressure.
This
action creates a
partial
vacuum
in the pump chamber.
Fuel
from the main

tank
is forced into the low-pressure pump chamber
through the open disc valve. Incoming fuel supplies
the force necessary to open the valve, which is

a
one-way check valve. As the
engine
camshaft continues to rotate, spring pressure forces the

diaphragm
downward as the pump rocker arm
follows the camshaft eccentric to its low
spot.

The
downward action of the diaphragm
closes

the intake valve and forces fuel to the carburetor

reservoir
through the pump
outlet
valve. Both intake and
outlet
valves are one-way check valves
opened and closed by fuel flow. No mechanical components are required in the control of valve
operation.

Fuel
is delivered to the carburetor only when the float
needle
is off its seat. When the fuel level in the carburetor bowl is high enough for the float to
force the
needle
against its seat, pressure backs up
to the fuel pump air
dome
and causes the diaphragm
to
stop
pumping. In this position, the pump is said
to be balanced because the pressure in the pump- to-carburetor line equals that of the diaphragm

spring.
In this way, fuel from the pump to the
carburetor
is always under pressure. The carburetor

uses
fuel, causing the float to drop and
pull
the

carburetor
needle
valve off its seat. Pressure in the pump immediately drops as fuel is delivered to the

carburetor
reservoir. Almost instantaneously the

diaphragm
again starts operating to pump more 125

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
the condenser. Replace the condenser. If there is
no jump to full voltage, overhaul or replace the

distributor.

k.
With the points closed, connect the voltmeter

from
a clean, paint-free
post
on the distributor
body to the negative
post
of the battery. The volt­
age drop should be practically zero, a hardly
readable deflection on the voltmeter. If the volt­ meter registers a
voltage
drop, perform the checks

in
steps
1
and m following.

I.
Check
for
voltage
drop in the battery ground
cable.
Clean
the battery
post,
cable terminals, and contact surface on the bellhousing, or on body if

a
noticeable deflection of the voltmeter occurs,
m.
Check
for any
voltage
drop
between
the dis­

tributor
body and a clean, paint-free
spot
on the

cylinder
block. If there is any
voltage
drop, remove
the distributor and clean the mounting surfaces of
distributor
body and cylinder block.

H-5.
SECONDARY
CIRCUIT
If
satisfactory ignition is not obtainable with cor­

rect
point gap and tension; satisfactory condenser;
sufficient primary voltage; and correctly cleaned, gapped, and installed spark plugs; the secondary

circiut
should be investigated.

a.
Test the coil.
Bring
the coil up to operating
temperature using the coil heat feature of a coil tester, if available. Refer to the coil tester manu­

facturer's
instructions for specific hook-ups for
performing the checks given in
steps
b, c, and d following.
b. Connect the positive lead of the tester to the
battery terminal of the coil primary winding.
Con­
nect the tester ground lead to the coil tower. Mea­

sure
the resistance of the secondary winding. If the
resistance is more than
20,000
ohms, a fault in the
secondary winding is indicated.
c.
Check
for a grounded secondary by touching the tester ground lead to the coil cover. If resistance
is not over
100,000
ohms, the secondary is grounded
to the cover.

d.
If the secondary winding is satisfactory, mea­
sure
the primary current draw in accordance with
the instructions of the
test
equipment manu­
facturer.

e.
Check
the secondary circuit for leakage. With the coil primary in the circuit with the breaker unit of the tester, connect a long, high-tension
test
lead
to the coil tower.
Check
the secondary circuit for
leakage by performing the checks given in
steps
f. g, h, and i following.

Note:
In the following
tests,
a slight sparking and
meter deflection
will
usually be
seen
just as contact
is made.
This
is caused by capacitance and
does
not
indicate defective insulation.
f.
Check
distributor cap. Remove the coil lead from the cap and touch the
test
lead to the center contact
inside the cap. If the meter reading drops when the contact is touched or if sparking is seen, a leakage
path is present
between
the center contact and one
of the plug towers.
This
leakage path
will
be in the

form
of a
crack
or carbon track in the cap. Discon­ nect the spark plug wires from the cap one at a
time and
test
each plug contact with the high-
voltage
lead and with all other plug wires con­
nected. Any sparking or meter drop indicates that

a
leakage path exists
between
that particular con­
tact and an adjacent one. Testing the adjacent contacts
will
determine which pair is at fault,
g-
Check
distributor rotor. Touch the
test
lead to
the spring contact in the center of the distributor
rotor.
Any leakage in the rotor insulation
between

the contact and the shaft
will
cause a drop in the meter reading and usually sparking
will
be seen.

h.
Check
spark plug wires. Disconnect the spark
plug wires from the plugs and
test
the plug terminal of each. The meter reading should not drop below
the open secondary value (value before making contact). If it
does
or if a large spark occurs when
the
test
lead and the plug wire are separated, there
is a break in the insulation on that wire.

i.
Check
the coil tower insulation. Remove the
high-tension
test
lead from the coil tower and touch
the ground lead of the coil tester to several points

around
the base of the tower. Any sparking or deflection of the meter indicates a leakage path in
the tower insulation.

H-6.
Alternator Charging System

All
Jeep
Universal
Series vehicles have, as standard
equipment a 35-amp., 12-volt, negative ground
alternator and a transistorized
voltage
regulator.
For
repairing the alternator, many of its major components are furnished as complete assemblies

including:
complete brush assembly which requires no soldering or unsoldering of leads; two complete
rectifying
diode
assemblies which eliminate the need for removing and replacing individual diodes;

a
complete isolation
diode
assembly; and a rotor assembly complete with shaft,
pole
pieces, field coil,

and
slip rings.

The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is an electronic
switching device. It
senses
the
voltage
appearing at the auxiliary terminal of the alternator and
supplies the necessary field current for maintaining the system
voltage
at the output
terminal.
The out­
put current is determined by the battery electrical

load;
such as headlights, heater, etc.
The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is a sealed unit,
has no adjustments, and must be replaced as a
complete unit.

H-7.
Starting System

The
operation of the starter motor is controlled by
the ignition switch. The starter is made up of a
frame,
field coil, armature, and brushes.

The
starter solenoid electrically
closes
the circuit

between
the battery and the starter motor. When the ignition key is turned to its extreme right, the
solenoid is energized and
closes
the battery-to- starter-motor circuit.

Note:
All Jeep Universal Series vehicles have the

starter
solenoid switch secured to the starter motor
assembly. The Hurricane F4 and Dauntless V-6

engine
Prestolite starter drive is of the inertia type
(rexr
continued on
page
176) 174

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
11474

FIG.
H-3—WIRING
DIAGRAM—MODELS
CJ-5, CJ-6, DJ-5 AND DJ-6—F4
ENGINE
(Model CJ-5 after Serial No.
49248,
Model CJ-6 after Serial No.
12577)

1—
Left
Headlamp
B—Turn
Signal Indicator 17—Directional Signal Switch
2—
Left
Parking and Directional Lamp C—Instrument Lights 18—Light Switch
3— Right Parking and Directional Lamp
D—Oil
Pressure Indicator
19—Stop
Light Switch
4— Right Headlamp E—Charging Indicator 20—Foot Dimmer Switch
5— Battery Ground Cable F—Temperature Gauge 21—Directional Signal Flasher
6— Generator
G—Fuel
Gauge 22—Fuse 7— Distributor H—Instrument Voltage Regulator
23—Solenoid
Switch
8— Ignition
Coil
12—Right
Tail
and
Stop
Lamp 24—Temperature Sending Unit
9— Starting Motor 13—Left
Tail
and
Stop
Lamp 25—Oil Pressure Signal Switch
10— Voltage Regulator 14—Fuel Gauge
Tank
Unit 26—Horn
11— Instrument Cluster 15—Ignition and Starter Switch 27—Junction Block
A—Upper
Beam Indicator 16—Horn Button
whereas the Dauntless V-6
engine
Delco starter
ignition
switch. If trouble
develops
in this switch, drive is of the clutch
type.
it must be replaced.
The
ignition
switch
serves
both
to
energize
the

The
starter circuit is
opened
when the
ignition
key
ignition
system
and
also
to
engage
the starter
sole-

is allowed to return to the "Ignition On"
position.
miod switch. With the key in the vertical
position,
No repairs or adjustments can be
made
to the the electrical
system
is off. This is the
only
position
176

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H

12968
FIG.
H-4—WIRING
DIAGRAM—MODELS
CJ-5, CJ-6, DJ-5, DJ-6
LATE
F4
ENGINE

1—
Left
Headlamp
2—
Left
Parking and Signal Lamp
3— Right Parking and Signal Lamp 4— Right Headlamp
5— Generator
6— Ignition Distributor
7—
Oil
Pressure Sending Unit
8— Junction Block
9—
Horn

10— Foot Dimmer Switch 11—
Stop
Light Switch — Front
12— Temperature Sending Unit
13— Ignition
Coil

14— Starting Motor 15— Battery Ground Cable
16— Battery
17— Voltage Regulator 18—
Fuse

19— Instrument Cluster

A—Hi-Beam
Indicator

B—Auxiliary
C—Instrument
Lights

D—Oil
Pressure Indicator
E—Charging
Indicator
F—Temperature
Indicator

G—Fuel
Gauge
H—Instrument Voltage Regulator
20— Ignition and Starter Switch 21—
Flashei
(Directional Signal)
22—
Horn
Button 23— Directional Signal Switch
24— 4-Way Flasher Switch
25—
Flasher
(4-Way)
26—
Fuse

27—
Main
Light Switch 28—
Stop
Light Switch — Rear
29—
Fuel
Gauge
Tank
Unit
30—
Back-Up
Light Switch
31— Right
Tail
and
Stop
Lamp
32— Right Back-Up Lamp
33—
Left
Back-Up Lamp
34—
Left
Tail
and
Stop
Lamp

in
which the key can be removed. Turning the key
to the
left
energizes
auxiliary
equipment
such as
windshield wipers, radio, and heater. The turn
signal
lights
will
operate
with the
ignition
key in
either the
left
or right
position.
The
ignition
switch is held in
position
by a
tension
spring on the back
of the instrument panel and a
notched
bezel on
the front of the instrument panel.
H-8.
Lighting System

The
wiring for the lighting
system
is shown in the
wiring diagrams, Figs. H-2 thru H-7 of the manual,
which indicate the various units in relation to their

position
in the vehicle. The lighting circuit is pro­
tected
by an overload circuit breaker
mounted
on the rear of the light switch.
The
main light switch controls the lighting
system
177

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
colder plug may be desirable. However, under- or
over-heating is usually caused by factors other than the type of
spark
plugs and the cause should be determined before changing plugs. The design of the
engine
calls for plugs equivalent to Champion

J-8
for F4
engines
and
A.C.
44S or
UJ12Y
Champ­

ion for the V6 engines, (as installed in production)
though any factor that consistently affects
engine
operating temperature may cause this requirement
to change. Overheating may be caused by in­ sufficient tightening of the plug in the head, which interferes with the flow of heat away from the firing

tip.
If this is the case, the plug gasket
will
show very
little flattening. Over-tightening, in
turn,
will
pro­ duce too easy a heat flow path and result in cold
plug operation.
This
will
be evident by excessive
flattening
and
deformation of the gasket.
Prevailing
temperatures, condition of the cooling system, and

air-fuel
mixture can affect the
engine
operating temperature and should be taken into consideration.
H-34.
GENERATOR
— F4
ENGINE

The
generator is an air-cooled, two-brush unit

which
cannot be adjusted to increase or decrease output. For replacement,
voltage
regulator and generator must be matched for
voltage
and capa­

city,
polarity, and common source of manufacture.
Otherwise,
either a
loss
of ampere capacity or a

burned
out generator
will
result. Generators for

these
vehicles are 12-volt. Par. H-l explains the 12-volt system. Refer to the specifications at the
end of this section for information on correct generator rating for a specific model series.
The
circuit
breaker,
voltage
regulator, and current-

limiting
regulator are built into one combination

unit.
Because the regulator and battery are part
of the generator
circuit,
the output of the generator
depends upon the
state
of charge and temperature
of the battery.
With
a discharged battery, the
output
will
be high, decreasing proportionally as the battery
becomes
charged. For service informa­
tion covering current regulator see Par. H-41.

H-36.
Generator
Maintenance

A
periodic inspection should be made of the charg­
ing
circuit,
Fig. H-l9. The interval
between
these
checks
will
vary
depending upon type of service.
Dust,
dirt
and high speed operation are factors 10541

FIG.
H-19—CHARGING
CIRCUIT

1—
Battery
4-—Starter Switch

2—
Voltage
Regulator 5-—Charge Indicator

3—
Generator
which
contribute to increased wear of bearings

and
brushes.

Under
normal conditions a check should be made
each 6000 miles
[9.600
km.].

A
visual inspection should be made of all wiring,
to be sure there are no broken or damaged wires.

Check
all connections to be sure they are tight and

clean.

Should
the commutator be rough or worn the
armature
should be removed and the commutator

turned
and undercut. See Par. H-37.
The
brushes should slide freely in their holders.

Should
they be oil soaked or if they are worn to

less
than one-half their original length they should
be replaced. When new brushes are installed they should be sanded to provide
full
contact with the
commutator. Generators should not be checked for
output until the brushes are seated.

Brush
spring tension is important. High tension causes
rapid
brush and commutator wear while
low tension causes arcing and reduced output.
Test
the tension with a spring scale.
Check
the
specifications section at end of this section for

correct
spring tension for generator in question.
H-36.
Generator Disassembly
•
Refer to Fig. H-20:
Before beginning disassembly of the generator to

correct
electrical system malfunctions proceed with
inspection and
test
procedures as detailed in Par.

H-46
thru
H-62. If it is definitely determined that trouble exists within the generator, which ne­cessitates dismantling, proceed as follows. Remove the two frame screws in the commutator
end plate and remove the end plate assembly. Next
pull
the armature and drive head complete

from
the generator housing. Remove the generator pulley from the armature by removing the nut

and
washer. Do not
lose
the Woodruff key when
the pulley is removed. After this, remove the drive
end head assembly which includes the oil seal and
bearing.
To remove the bearing, remove the three
screws and lockwashers in the grease retainer and remove the retainer and felt washer, after which,
remove the bearing, oil guard and felt washer.
H-37.
Armature

If
the commutator is rough or worn,
turn
it down

in
a lathe. After turning, the mica insulation be­ tween the
segments
should be undercut to a depth of 34* [0,8 mm.].
To
test
the armature for a ground, connect one

prod
of a
test
lamp to the core or shaft (not on

bearing
surface) and touch each commutator
seg­
ment with the other prod. If the lamp lights, the

armature
segment
is grounded and the armature must be replaced.

To
test
for short in armature coils, a growler,

Fig.
H-21, is necessary. Place the armature on the growler and lay a thin steel strip on the armature

core.
The armature is then rotated slowly by hand

and
if a coil is shorted, the steel strip
will
vibrate.

Should
a coil be shorted the armature must be
replaced.

If
precision
test
equipment is available, the cus­

tomary
accurate
tests
can be made in accordance 188