clutch JEEP DJ 1953 Owner's Manual

Page 104 of 376


Dl

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
e.
Connect electrical wiring harness to coolant
temperature sending unit. Connect two distributor leads to ignition coil. Connect fuel line
between

fuel pump and carburetor, vacuum
hose
between
distributor and carburetor, and crankcase vent
hose

to intake manifold
below
rear
of carburetor.
FIG.
D1-46—-INTAKE
MANIFOLD
INSTALLATION

1—Long Bolt 2—Open Bolt Hole
Dl-102.
ENGINE INSTALLATION

Install
the
engine
in the vehicle in the following
procedure listed
below:

a.
Attach suitable sling to
engine
lifting
eyes
and,
using a hoist, lift the
engine
from blocks or
engine
stand.
b. When
engine
is free of the stand lower it slowly

into
the
engine
compartment of the vehicle.

Note:
The
engine
and transmission must be lined
up to
engage
the main shaft and clutch plate spline
while sliding the
engine
rearward
into
the mounting
position.
c.
Install
and tighten up
bolts
securing
engine
to
flywheel housing.

d.
Install
and tighten front
engine
mounting bolts.

e.
Remove sling from the
engine.

I.
Connect exhaust pipes to right and
left
engine
manifolds.
g. Connect choke cable support bracket to
car­

buretor.

h.
Connect
engine
fuel
hoses
and fuel lines at right
frame
rail.

I.
Connect fuel lines.

j.
Mount
engine
starter motor assembly to
engine.
k.
Connect battery cable and wiring to
engine

starter
motor.

I.
Connect
engine
wiring harnesses to connectors
located on
engine
firewall.

Note:
On
engines
equipped with exhaust emission
control, replace the air pump, air distributor mani­
fold, and anti-backfire (gulp) valve. See Section F2.
m. Replace radiator, and secure with bolts,
n.
Replace and tighten right and
left
radiator sup­
port rods.
0. Connect upper and lower radiator
hoses
to the

engine.
p. Connect alternator wiring harness from connec­
tor at regulator,
q.
Replace air cleaner.
r.
Connect battery ground cable from the battery
to the
engine
and the
engine
ground strap,

s.
Replace the hood.

After
the
engine
is installed in the vehicle,
fill
radiator
with coolant and
engine
with oil (Refer to
Lubrication
Section B), then perform an
engine

Tune-up
and road
test
(Refer to Tune-up Sec­
tion C).

Dl-103.
FINAL IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS

a.
Clean
battery terminals and check battery.
b.
Check
ignition wires and connections.
c. Service carburetor air cleaner.

d.
Service positive crankcase ventilation valve.
e.
Check
fuel lines.
f. Gap and install new
spark
plugs.
g.
Check
distributor
points
and capacitor; replace
if
necessary.

h.
Check
ignition (distributor) timing; reset if
necessary. 1.
Check
carburetor adjustments; reset if necessary,

j.
With
engine
fully warmed up, tighten cylinder
head and manifold
bolts
and nuts to specified
torque.
Check
cylinder head
gaskets
and
bolts
for
air
or coolant leaks.

Note:
Tightness of cylinder head
bolts
should be
checked and corrected after 500 miles [800 km.]
of normal operation and again at 1000 miles [1600

km.].
k.
Check
fan belt tension; adjust if necessary.
I.
Check
for and correct any oil leak, fuel leak or
coolant leak. 104

Page 176 of 376


H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
11474

FIG.
H-3—WIRING
DIAGRAM—MODELS
CJ-5, CJ-6, DJ-5 AND DJ-6—F4
ENGINE
(Model CJ-5 after Serial No.
49248,
Model CJ-6 after Serial No.
12577)

1—
Left
Headlamp
B—Turn
Signal Indicator 17—Directional Signal Switch
2—
Left
Parking and Directional Lamp C—Instrument Lights 18—Light Switch
3— Right Parking and Directional Lamp
D—Oil
Pressure Indicator
19—Stop
Light Switch
4— Right Headlamp E—Charging Indicator 20—Foot Dimmer Switch
5— Battery Ground Cable F—Temperature Gauge 21—Directional Signal Flasher
6— Generator
G—Fuel
Gauge 22—Fuse 7— Distributor H—Instrument Voltage Regulator
23—Solenoid
Switch
8— Ignition
Coil
12—Right
Tail
and
Stop
Lamp 24—Temperature Sending Unit
9— Starting Motor 13—Left
Tail
and
Stop
Lamp 25—Oil Pressure Signal Switch
10— Voltage Regulator 14—Fuel Gauge
Tank
Unit 26—Horn
11— Instrument Cluster 15—Ignition and Starter Switch 27—Junction Block
A—Upper
Beam Indicator 16—Horn Button
whereas the Dauntless V-6
engine
Delco starter
ignition
switch. If trouble
develops
in this switch, drive is of the clutch
type.
it must be replaced.
The
ignition
switch
serves
both
to
energize
the

The
starter circuit is
opened
when the
ignition
key
ignition
system
and
also
to
engage
the starter
sole-

is allowed to return to the "Ignition On"
position.
miod switch. With the key in the vertical
position,
No repairs or adjustments can be
made
to the the electrical
system
is off. This is the
only
position
176

Page 208 of 376


H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
sibility
of the cable shorting at the
engine
or frame.
Remove nut and lock washer securing the ignition

wire
to the solenoid
post
and remove the two screws and lock washers securing the solenoid to
the starter frame. Remove the switch,
b.
To install the solenoid switch reverse the re­

moval
procedure given above.

H-10S.
STARTING MOTOR

DELCO
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

Refer
to Fig. H-45.

The
starting motor used on the Dauntless V-6 en­

gine
has an integral solenoid switch and enclosed
shift lever which first shifts the overrunning clutch
pinion into
engagement
with the ring gear on the
flywheel of the
engine
and then
closes
the electrical
circuit
to cause
engine
cranking. When the
engine

starts,
the overrunning clutch
disengages
to pre­ vent transfer of
engine
speed to the starting motor.

Note:
Should a service replacement starter motor
be required the factory recommends replacement

with
original equipment parts; however, should the need arise an existing starter motor (Delco or
Prestolite) could be replaced with the current
Delco-Remy
starter, model 1108375, with the
following modifications to the wiring harness. If
the existing starter motor wiring harness
does
not
provide a 12 ga. purple conduit wire, (connects the ignition switch to the starter motor) then a 12 ga.

purple
conduit wire 70 inches long, must be in­

stalled.
Should the existing starter motor wiring
harness
contain a 16 ga. light blue conduit wire, (connects the ignition switch and starter motor)
bend this wire back and tape out of the way.

H-109.
Starting Motor Disassembly
a.
Before removing the starting motor from the
engine, disconnect leads and cover battery lead

terminal
with piece of
hose
or tape to prevent
short circuiting.
Note
locations of wiring connec­
tions to assure proper reconnection. Remove the cap screw that secures the starting motor to the
angle bracket on the side of the engine. Remove
the two cap screws that secure the drive end of
the starting motor to the cylinder block; remove
the starting motor.

b.
Remove terminal nut and disconnect field lead,

which
passes through grommet at top of motor,
from
motor terminal of solenoid. Remove two
thru

bolts
from motor. Remove commutator end frame

and
field frame assembly from solenoid and drive assembly.
e.
Pull
out pivot pins of brush holders and remove each of two brush holder and spring assemblies

from
field housing. Remove screws which attach
brushes and leads to holders.

d.
Remove armature and drive assembly from
drive
housing. Remove thrust collar from pinion
end of armature shaft. Remove leather thrust

washer
from
opposite
end of shaft.
e. To separate drive assembly from
armature,
place

a
metal cylinder of proper size (J^" [12,7 mm.]
pipe coupling is satisfactory) over end of armature
shaft to bear against the pinion
stop
retainer. Tap
retainer
toward armature to
expose
snap ring as
shown in
Fig.
H-47. Remove snap ring from
groove
in
shaft; slide retainer and pinion drive assembly

from
shaft. Remove assist spring from shaft,

f.
Remove two screws holding solenoid switch to
drive
housing remove switch. Remove small nut

and
insulating washer from the solenoid S terminal.
Remove nut and insulating washer from the
sole­

noid battery (large) terminal. Remove two screws that attach switch cover to solenoid and remove cover for inspection of switch parts. Remove shift
lever fulcrum bolt and remove shift lever, plunger,

and
return spring.
12765
FIG.
H-47—REMOVING PINION
DRIVE
ASSEMBLY

FROM
ARMATURE SHAFT

1— XA ' Pipe Coupling

2—
Snap
Ring
and Retainer

3—
Armature
Shaft
4—
Drive
Assembly
H-110.
Starting
Motor
Cleaning and
Inspection

a.
Wipe all parts clean with clean cloths. The
arma­
ture,
field coils, and drive assembly must not be
cleaned by any degreasing or high temperature
method.
This
might damage insulation so that a
short
circuit
or ground would subsequently develop.
It
would also remove lubricant originally packed

in
the overrunning clutch so that clutch would

soon
be ruined.

b.
Carefully
inspect all parts visually for wear or
damage. Make necessary repairs or replace unserv­
iceable parts. Any soldering must be
done
with

rosin
flux.

Note:
Never use acid flux when solding any elec­

trical
connections and never use emery cloth to
clean
armature
commutator or other
electrical
units. 208

Page 212 of 376


H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
H-124. Testing Indicators and Gauges

Two
gauges
(fuel and temperature) and two in­ dicators (oil pressure and battery charge) that are
located in the instrument cluster are electrically operated.

The
fuel
gauge
is connected by a single wire to a
float-and-slide-rheostat sending unit in the fuel
tank.

The
temperature
gauge
is connected by a single

wire
to a resistance-type sending unit mounted on the engine.

The
battery charge indicator operates when there
is a difference in potential
between
the generator
and
the battery
.The
battery charge indicator lights
when the generator is not charging the battery. The
indicator
light
goes
out when the generator
begins

to charge the battery.

The
oil pressure indicator is connected by a single

wire
to a diaphragm switch located on the engine.
When
engine
oil pressure is low or zero and the
ignition switch is on, the oil pressure indicator
will

light. When
engine
speed is increased slightly above idle speed, raising the oil pressure to approximately 6 psi. [0,2 kg-cm2], the diaphragm switch
will
open the circuit and the indicator light
will
go out.

A
voltage
regulator maintains a constant
voltage
to the
gauges
in normal operation. On early vehicles,
this
voltage
regulator was mounted on the
rear
of
the instrument cluster. On current vehicles, the
voltage
regulator is integral with the fuel
gauge.

Should
trouble
develop
in the
gauges,
first check the regulator (fuel
gauge
on current production vehicle). If the
voltage
to the regulator is below 10 volts system low
gauge
readings
will
result.
Voltage in
excess
of 16 volts
will
not affect
gauge

readings but may result in premature wear of the
regulator contacts. If the
voltage
to the regulator is

within
the above limits, check the electrical con­ nections to the regulator (or fuel gauge), especially
the ground connection. If the readings of all the
gauges
is too high, or they all read too low, replace
the regulator (or fuel gauge).

If
the temperature
gauge
or heat indicator in the
instrument cluster have failed, the cause may
originate from the jumper bar shorting out against the instrument case.
Check
the jumper bar
between

the temperature
gauge
and heat indicator at the

rear
of the instrument case. On later production vehicles, the jumper bar is covered with an in­
sulating
sleeve
to protect it from shorting out
against the instrument case. If the jumper bar

does
not have this
sleeve,
either install one or

wrap
the bar with plastic electrical tape to
half

an
inch [12,7 mm.] from each end. When installing the jumper bar, be sure the curved
segment
is
closest to the fuel
gauge.

Should
only one of the two
gauges
register incor­
rectly,
check the lead wire from the
gauge
to the
sending unit for shorts or open connections. Next disconnect the
gauge
from the sending unit, and
connect the
gauge
to a new fuel tank sending unit

which
has been grounded to the vehicle.
If
the
gauge
registers incorrectly when operating the new unit,
replace the
gauge;
if correctly, replace the sending

unit.

Should
a new fuel tank unit not be available for testing, use a 12-volt
test
light in its place. When
the
gauge
is operating correctly, the pointer
will

move
approximately three-quarters across the
dial.

On
some
vehicles, the temperature
gauge
may
register on or
close
to the H (hot)
mark
when
coolant temperature is
190°F.
to
200°F.
[88°C.
a

93°C.].
In such cases, a 25-ohm,
1-watt
resistor
may be installed on the temperature
gauge
which

will
place the pointer just beyond the center
mark
at a coolant temperature of
190°F.
to
200°F.
Install

the resistor
between
the two terminals on the back
of the
gauge.
Insulate the
exposed
leads of the resistor with electrical tape.

If
the oil pressure indicator
does
not indicate cor­

rectly,
first check the light bulb. Next check all
connections and lead wires. If, after all possible

defects
are corrected, the indicator light
does
not go on and off properly, then the diaphragm type
switch in the cylinder block should be replaced.

H-12S.
LIGHTING SYSTEM The
wiring of the lighting systems is shown in
the wiring diagrams, which indicate the various units in relation to their positions in the vehicle.
The
wires in the various circuits are of different
colors or are marked by tracers to aid when check­
ing individual circuits.

The
lighting circuits of all models are protected by

an
overload circuit breaker mounted on the back of the main light switch and no replaceable fuse is
required.

The
upper and lower headlight beams are con­
trolled by a
foot
switch located on the toe board
to the left of the clutch pedal.
H-126.
Main
Light
Switch

This
switch is a dual functioning unit having two

push-pull
positions and a rotary action. When
pulled out to the first position, the front parking
and
tail
lights are turned on. When pulled all the
way out to the second position, the headlights and
tail
lights are turned on. Rotating the switch to
the right dims the instrument cluster lighting.

The
switch may be removed from the instrument
panel by first loosening the set screw in the control
knob and removing the knob. The retaining nut may then be removed and the switch removed
through the
rear
of the instrument panel.
FIG.
H-51—MAIN
LIGHT
SWITCH
(EARLY)

1—
Battery
4—Parking Lights
2—
Rear
Lights 5—Auxiliary

3—
Head
Lights
212

Page 223 of 376


'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
H-152.
ELECTRICAL
SPECIFICATIONS
MODEL HURRICANE
F4 ENGINE DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

BATTERY:
Make
Model Hour Rating.

Voltage
Terminal
Ground

SPECIFIC
GRAVITY:
Fully
Charged
Recharged At
Location

GENERATOR:
Make.
Model

Ground
Polarity
Controlled Output

Control

Armature End Play
Brushes

Brush
Spring Tension

REGULATOR:
Make
Model:
For
GJP
7202,
GJP
7402A

Type
Cutout Relay: Closing
Voltage
@
Generator rpm..........
Reverse Current to Open.
Regulated
Voltage

Regulated Current

ALTERNATOR:
Make
Model
Ground
Polarity
Rated Output
Rated Field
Coil
Draw

At
70°F.
and
10-volt

Capacitor Capacity

REGULATOR:
Make
Model
Type

STARTING
MOTOR:
Make
Model
Brush
Spring Tension

LOCK
TEST:
Temperature
Amp.
(Max.)
Volt
Stall
Torque (Min.)

NO LOAD TEST:
Tempesature

Amp.
(Max.)
Volt
Rpm.
(Min.)

DRIVE:
Type

COIL:
Make.
Model

Primary
Resistance Secondary Resistance
Prestolite

HS
11-50
50 Ampere-hour
12-volts

Negative

1.260
1.225
Engine Compartment- Right Rear

Prestolite

GJP-7402A
Negative
35 amp.

CV
Regulator .003" to .010"

[0,076
a 0,25 mm.] 2
18 to 36 oz.
[510 a 1020 gr.]

Prestolite

VBO-4201E-4A
Vibrator

12.6 to 13.6 @ 1325 3 to 5 amp. 14.2 to 14.4
36 amp. max.
Motorola
A12 NW 526
Negative
35 amp.
1.7 to 2.3 amp. .1 mfd.
Motorola
R-2-K-1

Transistor

Prestolite

MDU-7004
32 to 40 oz. [907 a 1134 gr.]

70°F.
[21°C] 295 4
6 lb-ft. [0,83
kg-m.]

70°F.
[21°C.;
50
10

5300

Bendix Folo-Thru
Prestolite
200691

3.9 to 4.2
ohms

9400
to
11,700
ohms
Prestolite

HS
11-50
50 Ampere-hour
12-volts

Negative

1.260
1.225
Engine Compartment- Right Rear

Prestolite

GJP-7402A
Negative
35 amp.

CV
Regulator .003" to .010"

[0,076
a 0,25 mm.] 2
18 to 36 oz.
[510 a 1020 gr.]

Prestolite

VBO-4201E-4A
Vibrator

12.6 to 13.6 @ 1325 3 to 5 amp. 14.2 to 14.4
36 amp. max.
Motorola
A12 NW 528
Negative
35 amp.
1.7 to 2.3 amp. .1 mfd.
Motorola
R-2-K-1

Transistor
Delco-Remy

1107391,
1108366,
1108375

32 to 40 oz. [907 a 1134 gr.]
Not Applicable Not Applicable

70°F.
[21°C] 75
10.6

6200

Overrunning Clutch Delco-Remy
1115247

1.28 to 1.42
ohms

7200
to
9500
ohms
Prestolite

MHA-7008
32 to 40 oz. [907 a 1134 gr.]

70°F.
[21°C] 200 4
3 lb-ft. [0,41
kg-m.]

70°F.
[21°C] 43
10.0

9000

Bendix Folo-Thru

Prestolite
201700

4.25 to 4.60
ohms

5200
to 6100
ohms
223

Page 225 of 376


'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

CLUTCH

Contents

SUBJECT
PAR.

GENERAL
.1-1
Clutch
Maintenance 1-2
Clutch
Pedal Linkage and Adjustment.... 1-3
Pilot Bushing Inspection and
Replacement 1-8

CLUTCH
—HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE.
. . .1-4
Clutch
Removal. 1-5
Clutch
Pressure Plate and Disc Inspection.
.
1-6

Clutch
Pressure Plate Adjustment 1-7

Clutch
Installation 1-9

CLUTCH
—DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE,
DIAPHRAGM
SPRING
TYPE
1-10

Clutch
Removal.
........
.1-11
Clutch
Inspection, Diaphragm Spring Type. . 1-12

Clutch
Installation 1-27
SUBJECT
PAR.

SERVICING COIL
SPRING
TYPE CLUTCH
. .1-13 Pressure Plate Adjustment. 1-14
Pressure Plate Disassembly. . . . . 1-15
Inspection of Parts 1-16 thru 1-20 Pressure Plate Reassembly. . . . .1-21 thru 1-23

Clutch
Lever Adjustment 1-24

Clutch
Fitxure . .1-26

CLUTCH
THROWOUT
RELEASE
BEARING
1-25

SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
1-28

CLUTCH
SPECIFICATIONS
1-29
CLUTCH
ADJUSTING
FIXTURE
DATA
1-30

FIG.
I-1—CLUTCH
LINKAGE AND
ADJUSTMENT,
CROSS

SHAFT
TUBE
AND
LEVER
TYPE

1—
Clutch
Release Bearing
2—
Carrier
Spring
3—
Bracket

4— Dust Seal 5—
Ball
Stud 6—
Pad
7— Retainer
8—
Control
Tube Spring
9—
Control
Lever and Tube
10—
Ball
Stud and Bracket
11—
Frame
Bracket
12—
Ball
Stud Nut 13—
Yoke
Lock
Nut
14— Adjusting Yoke
15— Bolt
16— Pedal Release Rod
17— Pedal Clamp Bolt 18—
Control
Cable
19—
Clutch
Pedal
20— Screw and Lockwasher
21—
Draft
Pad 22— Pedal Pad and Shank
23— Retracting Spring
24— Pedal to Shaft Key 25— Washer
26— Pedal Shaft
27— Master Cylinder Tie Bar
28—
Control
Lever
29— Bearing
Carrier
10734

225

Page 226 of 376


I

CLUTCH 1-1.
GENERAL

The
clutch on current 'Jeep' vehicles is either

Auburn
or Borg and Beck manufactured. Vehicles
equipped with F4-134
engines
have an
Auburn
9.25" [23,4 cm.] single plate dry-disc clutch. The
pressure plate has three coil pressure springs and
three levers or fingers.

The
V6-225
engine
is equipped with a 10.4" [26,4
cm.] Borg and Beck single plate dry-disc clutch.

The
pressure plate utilizes either a finger-type
diaphragm spring, or a coil
type
spring pressure plate for clutch release.

The
driven plates of all
models
are built with
vibra­

tion damper springs and have two flexible facings

which
provide
smooth
engagement
of the
engine
power.
Early
'Jeep' vehicles equipped with a Dauntless
V-6
engine
use a 10.4" [26,4 cm.] single plate, dry-
disc clutch, incorporating a diaphram-type spring assembly.

The
clutch is of the centrifugal single dry disc
type
and
consists of the clutch disc, pressure plate and
the clutch release bearing.

The
clutch is actuated by a clutch pedal and a
series of mechanical linkage.

When
the clutch pedal is in the
engaged
position,
the clutch disc facings are clamped
between
the
friction surface of the
engine
flywheel and the face of the clutch pressure plate, thereby connect­
ing
engine
power to the transmission. Depressing
the clutch pedal actuates the clutch release shaft
fork
which
moves
the clutch release bearing against
the clutch fingers.
This,
in
turn,
moves
the pressure
plate away from the clutch disc. Since the disc is splined to the transmission input shaft, the clutch
disc and transmission input shaft
will
stop
when
the clutch is disengaged, thereby disconnecting
engine
power from the transmission.
1-2.
Clutch
Maintenance

To
obtain normal life and satisfactory performance
from any clutch it must be correctly operated and
properly maintained. Two conditions which shorten
clutch life are continuous operation of the clutch
release bearing and clutch slippage.
The
clutch release bearing is
designed
for inter­
mittent use. If run continuously the bearing
lubri­

cant
will
become
exhausted causing the bearing to
become
dry, noisy, or
will
seize, resulting in clutch
finger or diaphragm wear. The clutch must be properly adjusted so that the release bearing is
free of the clutch fingers or diaphragm at all times,

except
when the clutch pedal is depressed.

Excessive
clutch slippage
often
occurs when the
vehicle is overloaded, the vehicle load is applied
too quickly, or when the pressure of the clutch fingers or diaphragm is only partially applied to the clutch plate.
Friction
between
the clutch facing

and
flywheel produces
excessive
heat causing
burned,
glazed and worn linings, resulting in shortened clutch life. Avoid clutch slippage under
heavy loads by using a lower gear or reducing the load.
1-3.
Clutch
Pedal
Linkage
and Adjustment

Adjust
the clutch pedal free travel whenever the clutch
does
not
disengage
properly, or when new
clutch parts are installed. Improper adjustment of
the clutch pedal free travel is one of the
most
fre­
quent causes of clutch failure and can be a con­ tributing factor in
some
transmission failures.

As
the clutch facings wear the free travel of the clutch pedal diminishes. When sufficient wear oc­

curs
the pedal clearance must be adjusted.

Two
types
of clutch linkage have
been
used on Jeep vehicles, a cross shaft
tube
and lever
type

shown in Fig. 1-1, and a clutch control cable
type

shown in Fig. 1-2. The clutch pedal adjustment
procedures for both
type
linkages are as follows.

Cross
Shaft
Lever
and Tube Type

Refer
to Fig. 1-1.

Note:
Two different
Clutch
Control
Lever
and

Tube
Assemblies have
been
installed on 'Jeep*

Universal
vehicles equipped with a V-6
engine
and

T14A
transmission.
Should difficulty in shifting the transmission be
noted, check the length of the clutch release pedal
rod,
item (16) in Fig. 1-1. Measure the distance

between
the centerlines of the cotter key holes.

FIG.
1-2—CLUTCH
LINKAGE AND
ADJUSTMENT,

CONTROL
CABLE TYPE

A—Top
View,
Cable
to
Clutch
Fork
1—
Retracting
Spring
(Clutch
Fork)

2—
Clutch
Fork

3—
Ball
Adjusting Nut
4—
Lock
Nut 5—
Clutch
Cable

B—Side
View,
Cable
to
Clutch
Pedal 6—
Clutch
Cable
Support
Bracket
7—
Clutch
Cable
Housing
8—
Anchor
Bracket-to-Frame Side
Rail

9—
Retracting
Spring
(Clutch
Pedal)

10—Clutch
Pedal Assembly
*
© © ©
1437S
226

Page 227 of 376


'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

The
correct distance should be 10%"
[26,04
cm.].

If
the length of the clutch release pedal rod is
other than
10
W
[26,04
cm.], the vheicle is equipped with the early
type
Clutch
Control
Lever

and
Tube Assembly, which should be removed, and^trie latest
designed
parts should be installed.

The
free pedal clearance is adjusted by lengthening
or shortening the" clutch fork cable. To make this adjustment,
loosen
the jam nut on the cable clevis

and
lengthen or shorten the cable to obtain %"
[19,05
mm.] free travel at the pedal pad, then
tighten the jam unit.

Clutch
Control Cable Type

Refer
to Fig. 1-2.

a.
With the clutch pedal pad against the floor
panel, (pedal up, clutch
engaged)
adjust ball ad­
justing nut until slack is removed from the cable
and
the clutch throwout bearing contacts the clutch
pressure plate, release levers or diaphragm plate.
b. Back-off ball adjusting nut 2
V2
turns to obtain
approximately %"
[19,05
mm.] free travel.
Lock

hex nut.
FIG.

1-3—AUBURN
CLUTCH
ASSEMBLY —
HURRICANE F4 ENGINE 1—
Driven
Plate and Hub
2—
Pressure
Plate

3—
Pivot Pin
4—
Bracket
5—
Spring
Cup 6—
Pressure
Spring 7— Release
Lever

8—
Return
Spring
9—
Adjusting
Screw
10—
Jam
Nut 11—
Washer
Note:
Some older 'Jeep' vehicles may
develop
side

movement
of the clutch and brake pedals resulting
from wear of the pedals, shafts, and bushings. One way to
compensate
for this wear is to install a pedal

slack
adjuster kit 1-4.
CLUTCH

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

Auburn
Vehicles equipped with the Hurricane F4
engine

have a 9.25" [23,4 cm.] driven plate. The auburn clutch driving (pressure) plate assembly (Fig. 1-3)
has three pressure springs and three levers or
fingers.
1-5.
Clutch
Removal

When
necessary to remove the clutch,
follow
the procedures outlined in Section J for the removal
of the transmission and transfer case from the vehicle. Then remove the flywheel housing and use
the following procedures for removing the clutch assembly.

Note:
The F4
engine
may be removed from the
vehicle when inspecting or replacing the clutch.
Refer
to Section D for Hurricane F4
engine
re­moval and then
follow
the instructions given
below

to remove the clutch assembly.

a.
Mark
the clutch pressure plate and
engine
fly­
wheel with a center punch so the clutch assembly
may be installed in the same position after adjust­

ments
or replacement are completed.
b. Remove the clutch pressure plate bracket
bolts

equally, a little at a time, to prevent distortion and
to relieve the clutch springs evenly.
c. Remove the pressure plate assembly and driven
plate from the flywheel.
1-6.
Clutch
Pressure Plate and Disc Inspection
Inspect the pressure plate face for
cracks,
chips,

and
warpage.
Check
the pressure plate levers for
excessive
wear and the springs for breaks. If any of the
above
conditions exist, the
complete
pressure
plate must be replaced.
Check
the clutch disc for

excessive
wear,
loose
or damaged facings, broken
vibration damper springs and evidence of grease
or oil. If any of the
above
conditions exist, replace
the clutch disc.
1-7.
Clutch
Pressure Plate Adjustment —
Auburn
The
clutch pressure plate must be checked
before
installing a new or reconditioned clutch. The proper 11339

FIG.
1-4—CHECKING
AUBURN
CLUTCH
LEVER
ADJUSTMENT
1— Adjustment Gauge
2—
Fixture
Mounting Bolt

3—
Clutch
Fixture
227

Page 228 of 376


CLUTCH

©—*

11378

FIG.
1-5—ADJUSTING
AUBURN
CLUTCH
LEVERS

1—
Gauge
5—Mounting Bolt

2—
Clutch
Lever
6—Clutch
Pressure
Plate

3—
Adjusting
Screw
7—Thickness
Spacer

4—
Locknut
8—Clutch
Adjusting
Fixture
spacer thickness and
gauge
length is listed in

Par.
1-30. Use
Clutch
Adjusting Fixture W-296
and
proceed as follows:

a.
Place the thickness spacers
between
the pressure
plate face and clutch adjusting fixture. Locate the spacers under the pressure plate levers and at the
center of the pressure plate face, see Fig. 1-5.
b. With the spacers properly installed, bolt the
pressure plate to the adjusting fixture.
Draw
the

bolts
down evenly a little at a time until they are
tight.
c. Using the proper
gauge
length check the lever adjustment as shown in Fig. 1-4.

d.
Lever
adjustment can be altered by removing
the lever clips, loosening the locknut and turning
the adjusting screw (Fig. 1-5) in or out as required.
FIG.
1-6—REMOVING
PILOT
BUSHING
1—
Flywheel

2—
Pilot
Bushing

3—
Pilot
Bushing Remover 1-8. Pilot Bushing Inspection and Replacement


F4 and V-6 Engine.
Inspect the transmission main shaft pilot bushing

which
is pressed into the center of the flywheel on
the Hurricane F4
engine
and in the center of the
crankshaft
on the Dauntless V-6 engine. If the bushing is worn or damaged, it should be removed,
using a pilot bushing remover. Screw the tapered end of the tool into the damaged bushing, allowing
the tool to cut its own threads until a solid grip is obtained. Insert the puller screw and rotate it
until
bushing is forced out of flywheel, Fig. 1-6 or

crankshaft.

To
install a new bushing, slide the bushing
onto

the end of a pilot bushing installing and burnishing tool and insert the bushing into flywheel or
crank­
shaft. A
soft
hammer can be used against the tool
to help drive the bushing in place. When the tool
is removed (by tightening the cap and pressure
nut as shown in Fig. 1-7), the bushing
will
be
burnished
to correct size. Apply a small amount of

lubricant
to the bushing bore.
FIG.
1-7—INSTALLING
PILOT
BUSHING
1—
Pilot
Bushing
Installing
and
Burnishing
Tool

2—
Flywheel
1-9.
Clutch
Installation

a.
Inspect
Clutch
Disc
Before the clutch disc is installed, it should be
carefully
inspected for warpage. If grease or oil is evident on the friction facings, the facings should
be replaced and the cause of oil accumulation cor­ rected. Excessively worn facings should also be
replaced with factory recommended parts.
b. Inspect
Clutch
Release Bearing and Sleeve

The
clutch release bearing and
sleeve
are attached to the front facing of the transmission case by a

spring.
Check
the bearing and
sleeve
for evidence
of grease leaks from within the bearing or for wear

and
looseness.
Replace parts as necessary. 228

Page 229 of 376


'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

I
Note:
The clutch release bearing is lubricated at
time of assembly and no attempt should be made
to lubricate it Refer to Fig. 1-23 when lubricating
the clutch throwout bearing collar. c. Reassembly

To
assemble the clutch to the flywheel, first put
a
small amount of light cup grease in the flywheel
pilot bushing, install the driven plate, with short
end of hub toward the flywheel, then place the pressure plate assembly in position.
With
a clutch
plate aligning arbor or a spare transmission main
shaft, align the driven plate splines leaving the
arbor
in position while tightening the pressure plate
screws evenly.
Next, assemble the flywheel housing to the
engine
and
reinstall the transmission and transfer case or
install
the
engine
in the vehicle, depending on the
procedure of removal. Make sure that the clutch
release bearing
carrier
return spring is hooked in place. For the remainder of the assembly reverse
the operations that were used in removing the
transmission and transfer case or the
engine
referring
to the instructions given in Section J for the transmission and Section D and Dl for the
engine.

d.
Adjust the clutch control cable so there is 3A" [19,05 mm.] free pedal travel. (Refer to Par. 1-3)

1-10.
CLUTCH

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

Diaphragm Spring Type
(Early
Models)

*
Jeep' vehicles equipped with a Dauntless V-6 en­
gine
use a 10.4" [26,4 cm.] single-plate, dry-disc

clutch,
incorporating a diaphragm-type spring as­
sembly.

When
the clutch pedal is depressed, it
moves
the
clutch
fork in the direction shown in Fig. 1-8. The

clutch
fork, pivoting on a
ball
stud, acts upon the
throwout bearing. The bearing then forces the
prongs of the diaphragm spring in the direction shown in
Fig.
1-8. The diaphragm spring is mounted
so that it pivots on its retaining rings.
This
reverses
the direction of force.
Force
is applied directly to
the three retracting springs which then
move
the
pressure plate
rearward,
away from the driven plate.

The
clutch driven plate assembly slides freely on
the transmission main drive gear splined shaft. It is keyed to the gear shaft by ten splines. The
front end of the main drive gear shaft is piloted by a bushing pressed into a recess in the
rear
end
of the
engine
crankshaft. See Fig. 1-8.

The
outer area of the driven plate is divided into

segments
formed in low waves to provide springs

between
the plate facings and cushion
engagement

of the clutch. A molded facing is riveted to each
side of every
segment.
When the clutch is fully
released, the waved
segments
cause the facings to

spread
approximately .045" [1,14 mm.]. Pressure
plate movement provides an additional clearance
of approximately .030" [0.76 mm.] to assure
full
release of the driven plate. See Fig. 1-8.

The
driven plate assembly is designed to prevent
torsional fluctuation of the
engine
from being
transmitted to the transmission gears. Its hub is
FIG.
1-8—CLUTCH
RELEASE
ACTION

1—
Pressure
Plate 5—Engine
Crankshaft

2—
Throwout
Bearing
6—Pilot
Bearing

3—
Pivot
Point
7—Flywheel

4—
Clutch
Fork
8—Driven
Plate
driven
through torsional coil springs; additional

frictional
dampening is supplied by molded
fric-

tional washers.

1-11.
Clutch
Removal

a.
Remove transmission as described in Section J. b. Remove clutch throwout bearing and pedal re­

turn
spring from clutch fork.
c. Remove flvwheel housing from engine.
d.
Disconnect clutch fork from
ball
stud by forc­
ing it toward the center of the vehicle.
e.
Mark
clutch cover and flywheel with a center

punch
so that cover can later be installed in the same position on the flywheel.
This
is necessary to

maintain
engine
balance.
f. Loosen the clutch attaching
bolts
alternately,
one
turn
at a time, to avoid distorting the clutch
cover flange, until diaphragm spring is released.
g. Support the pressure plate and cover assembly
while removing last bolts; remove pressure plate
and
driven plate from flywheel.

Caution:
Use extreme care to keep clutch driven plate clean.

h.
If it is necessary to disassemble pressure plate,
remove three drive strap-to-pressure plate
bolts
and
retracting springs. Remove pressure plate from

clutch
cover.

Note:
When disassembling,
note
position of
grooves

on
edge
of pressure plate and cover. These marks must be aligned in assembly to maintain balance.

i.
The clutch diaphragm spring and two pivot rings

are
riveted to the clutch cover. Inspect spring, rings

and
cover for excessive wear or damage. If there
is a
defect,
replace the complete cover assembly.

1-12.
Clutch
inspection

Wash
all metal parts of clutch, except release bear­
ing and driven plate, in suitable cleaning solution to remove
dirt
and grease. If solvent
seeps
into

bearing,
lubricant may be dissolved. Cleaning sol­
vent
will
also damage the facings of driven plate,
a.
Inspect friction surfaces of flywheel and pres­

sure
plate for scoring or roughness. Slight roughness
may be smoothed with fine emery cloth. If surface 229

Page:   < prev 1-10 11-20 21-30 31-40 41-50 51-60 61-70 ... 80 next >