lock MITSUBISHI MONTERO 1998 Service Manual

Page 1399 of 1501

Excessive cylinder wear Rebore or replace
block
Excessive valve guide Worn or loose bearing
clearance
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Gap Bridged Deposits in combustion Clean combustion
chamber becoming fused chamber of deposits
to electrode
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Blistered Engine overheating Check cooling system
Electrode
Wrong type of fuel Replace with correct
fuel
Loose spark plugs Retighten spark plugs
Over-advanced ignition Reset ignition timing
timing see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
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Pre-Ignition or Incorrect type of fuel Replace with correct
Melted Electrodes fuel
Incorrect ignition timing Reset ignition timing
see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Burned valves Replace valves
Engine Overheating Check cooling system
Wrong type of spark plug, Replace with correct
too hot spark plug, see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
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Chipped Severe detonation Check for over-
Insulators advanced timing or
combustion
Improper gapping Re-gap spark plugs
procedure
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Rust Colored Additives in unleaded Try different fuel
Deposits fuel brand
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Water In Combus- Blown head gasket or Repair or replace
tion Chamber cracked head head or head gasket
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NOTE: Before diagnosing an electronic ignition system, ensure that
all wiring is connected properly between distributor, wiring
connector and spark plugs. Ignition problem will show up
either as: Engine Will Not Start or Engine Runs Rough.
BASIC ELECTRONIC IGNITION TROUBLE SHOOTING CHARTS
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION\
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Engine Won't Open circuit between Repair circuit
Start distributor and bulkhead
connector
Open circuit between Repair circuit
bulkhead connector and

Page 1401 of 1501

repair\
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One or More, But Carburetor idle mixture Readjust carburetor,
Not All Firing not balanced see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Voltage Lines are
Higher Than Others EGR valve stuck open Clean and/or replace
valve
High resistance in spark Replace spark plug
plug wires wires
Cracked or broken spark Replace spark plugs
plug insulator
Intake vacuum leak Repair leak
Defective spark plugs Replace spark plugs
Corroded spark plug Replace spark plugs
terminals
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One or More, But Curb idle mixture not Readjust carburetor,
Not All Firing balanced see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Voltage Lines Are
Lower Than Others Breaks in plug wires Replace plug wires
causing arcing
Cracked coil tower causing Replace coil
arcing
Low compression Determine cause and
repair
Defective spark plugs Replace spark plugs
Corroded spark plugs Replace spark plugs
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Cylinders Not Cracked distributor cap Replace distributor
Firing terminals cap
Shorted spark plug wire Determine cause and
repair
Mechanical problem in Determine cause and
engine repair
Defective spark plugs Replace spark plugs
Spark plugs fouled Replace spark plugs
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BASIC DRIVEABILITY PROBLEMS TROUBLE SHOOTING TABLE\
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION\
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Hard Starting Binding carburetor linkage Eliminate binding
Binding choke linkage Eliminate binding
Binding choke piston Eliminate binding
Restricted choke vacuum Check vacuum lines
for blockage

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Noise When Stepping On Clutch .Bad release bearing,
.Worn pilot bearing
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Ticking Or Screeching As
Clutch Is Engaged .Faulty release bearing,
.Uneven pressure plate fingers
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Click Or Snap When Clutch
Is Engaged .Worn clutch fork,
.Worn or broken front bearing
retainer
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Transmission Shifts Hard .Clutch not releasing,
.Shift mechanism binding,
.Clutch installed backwards
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Will Not Shift Into One
Gear, Shifts Into All
Others .Bent shift fork,
.Worn detent balls
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Locked Into Gear,
Cannot Shift .Clutch adjustment,
.Worn detent balls
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Transmission Jumps Out
Of Gear .Pilot bearing worn,
.Bent shift fork,
.Worn gear teeth or face
.Excessive gear train end play
.Worn synchronizers
.Missing detent ball spring
.Shift mechanism worn or out of
adjustment
.Engine or transmission mount
bolts loose or out of adjustment
.Transmission not aligned
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Shift Lever Rattle .Worn shift lever or detents
.Worn shift forks
.Worn synchronizers sleeve
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Shift Lever Hops Under
Acceleration .Worn engine or transmission
mounts
( 1) - Most units use spur cut gears in reverse and are noisy
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POWERTRAIN
CLUTCH TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended
to be specific to any unique situation or individual vehicle
configuration. The purpose of this Trouble Shooting
information is to provide a list of common causes to
problem symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting,
refer to SUBJECT, DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available
in the section(s) you are accessing.
BASIC CLUTCH TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART

Page 1411 of 1501

Dry or binding clutch Lubricate and align
pedal hub components
Floor mat interference Lay mat flat in proper
with pedal area
Dry or binding ball/fork Lubricate and align
pivots components
Faulty clutch cable Replace clutch cable
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Noisy Clutch Faulty interlock switch Replace interlock
Pedal switch
Self-adjuster ratchet Lubricate or replace
noise self-adjuster
Speed control interlock Lubricate or replace
switch interlock switch
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Clutch Pedal Binding clutch cable See CLUTCH article
Sticks Down
Springs weak in pressure Replace pressure plate
plate
Binding in clutch linkage Lubricate and free
linkage
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Noisy Dry release bearing Lubricate or replace
release bearing
Dry or worn pilot bearing Lubricate or replace
bearing
Worn input shaft bearing Replace bearing
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Transmission Weak springs in pressure Replace pressure plate
Click plate
Release fork loose on ball Replace release fork
stud and/or ball stud
Oil on clutch disc damper Replace clutch disc
Broken spring in slave Replace slave cylinder
cylinder
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DRIVE AXLE - NOISE DIAGNOSIS
Unrelated Noises
Some driveline trouble symptoms are also common to the
engine, transmission, wheel bearings, tires, and other parts of the
vehicle. Ensure cause of trouble actually is in the drive axle before
adjusting, repairing, or replacing any of its parts.
Non-Drive Axle Noises
A few conditions can sound just like drive axle noise and
have to be considered in pre-diagnosis. The 4 most common noises are
exhaust, tires, CV/universal joints and wheel trim rings.

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In certain conditions, the pitch of the exhaust gases may
sound like gear whine. At other times, it may be mistaken for a wheel
bearing rumble.
Tires, especially radial and snow, can have a high-pitched
tread whine or roar, similar to gear noise. Also, some non-standard
tires with an unusual tread construction may emit a roar or whine.
Defective CV/universal joints may cause clicking noises or
excessive driveline play that can be improperly diagnosed as drive
axle problems.
Trim and moldings also can cause a whistling or whining
noise. Ensure none of these components are causing the noise before
disassembling the drive axle.
Gear Noise
A "howling" or "whining" noise from the ring and pinion gear
can be caused by an improper gear pattern, gear damage, or improper
bearing preload. It can occur at various speeds and driving
conditions, or it can be continuous.
Before disassembling axle to diagnose and correct gear
noise, make sure that tires, exhaust, and vehicle trim have been
checked as possible causes.
Chuckle
This is a particular rattling noise that sounds like a stick
against the spokes of a spinning bicycle wheel. It occurs while
decelerating from 40 MPH and usually can be heard until vehicle comes
to a complete stop. The frequency varies with the speed of the
vehicle.
A chuckle that occurs on the driving phase is usually caused
by excessive clearance due to differential gear wear, or by a damaged
tooth on the coast side of the pinion or ring gear. Even a very small
tooth nick or a ridge on the edge of a gear tooth is enough the cause
the noise.
This condition can be corrected simply by cleaning the gear
tooth nick or ridge with a small grinding wheel. If either gear is
damaged or scored badly, the gear set must be replaced. If metal has
broken loose, the carrier and housing must be cleaned to remove
particles that could cause damage.
Knock
This is very similar to a chuckle, though it may be louder,
and occur on acceleration or deceleration. Knock can be caused by a
gear tooth that is damaged on the drive side of the ring and pinion
gears. Ring gear bolts that are hitting the carrier casting can cause
knock. Knock can also be due to excessive end play in the axle shafts.
Clunk
Clunk is a metallic noise heard when an automatic
transmission is engaged in Reverse or Drive, or when throttle is
applied or released. It is caused by backlash somewhere in the
driveline, but not necessarily in the axle. To determine whether
driveline clunk is caused by the axle, check the total axle backlash
as follows:
1) Raise vehicle on a frame or twinpost hoist so that drive
wheels are free. Clamp a bar between axle companion flange and a part
of the frame or body so that flange cannot move.
2) On conventional drive axles, lock the left wheel to keep
it from turning. On all models, turn the right wheel slowly until it
is felt to be in Drive condition. Hold a chalk marker on side of tire
about 12" from center of wheel. Turn wheel in the opposite direction
until it is again felt to be in Drive condition.
3) Measure the length of the chalk mark, which is the total

Page 1413 of 1501

axle backlash. If backlash is one inch or less, drive axle is not the
source of clunk noise.
Bearing Whine
Bearing whine is a high-pitched sound similar to a whistle.
It is usually caused by malfunctioning pinion bearings. Pinion
bearings operate at drive shaft speed. Roller wheel bearings may whine
in a similar manner if they run completely dry of lubricant. Bearing
noise will occur at all driving speeds. This distinguishes it from
gear whine, which usually comes and goes as speed changes.
Bearing Rumble
Bearing rumble sounds like marbles being tumbled. It is
usually caused by a malfunctioning wheel bearing. The lower pitch is
because the wheel bearing turns at only about 1/3 of drive shaft
speed.
Chatter On Turns
This is a condition where the entire front or rear of vehicle
vibrates when vehicle is moving. The vibration is plainly felt as well
as heard. Extra differential thrust washers installed during axle
repair can cause a condition of partial lock-up that creates this
chatter.
Axle Shaft Noise
Axle shaft noise is similar to gear noise and pinion bearing
whine. Axle shaft bearing noise will normally distinguish itself from
gear noise by occurring in all driving modes (Drive, cruise, coast and
float), and will persist with transmission in Neutral while vehicle is
moving at problem speed.
If vehicle displays this noise condition, remove suspect
axle shafts, replace wheel seals and install a new set of bearings.
Re-evaluate vehicle for noise before removing any internal components.
Vibration
Vibration is a high-frequency trembling, shaking or grinding
condition (felt or heard) that may be constant or variable in level
and can occur during the total operating speed range of the vehicle.
The types of vibrations that can be felt in the vehicle can
be divided into 3 main groups:
* Vibrations of various unbalanced rotating parts of the
vehicle.
* Resonance vibrations of the body and frame structures caused
by rotating of unbalanced parts.
* Tip-in moans of resonance vibrations from stressed engine or
exhaust system mounts or driveline flexing modes.
DRIVE AXLE - RWD TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended
to be specific to any unique situation or individual vehicle
configuration. The purpose of this Trouble Shooting
information is to provide a list of common causes to
problem symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting,
refer to SUBJECT, DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available
in the section(s) you are accessing. For definitions
of listed noises or sounds, see DRIVE AXLE - NOISE DIAGNOSIS
under POWERTRAIN.
DRIVE AXLE (RWD) TROUBLE SHOOTING
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION

Page 1423 of 1501

Column not correctly See STEERING COLUMNS
aligned article
Broken lower joint Replace joint
Horn contact ring not See STEERING COLUMN
article
Bearing not lubricated See STEERING COLUMN
article
Shaft snap ring not Reseat or replace snap
properly seated ring
Plastic spherical joint See STEERING COLUMN
not lubricated article
Shroud or housing loose Tighten holding screws
Lock plate retaining See STEERING COLUMN
ring not seated article
Loose sight shield Tighten holding screws
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High Steering Column assembly See STEERING COLUMN
Shaft Effort misaligned article
Improperly installed dust Adjust or replace
shield
Tight steering universal See STEERING COLUMN
joint article
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High Shift Column is out of See STEERING COLUMN
Effort alignment article
Improperly installed Adjust or replace
dust shield
Seals or bearings not See STEERING COLUMNS
lubricated article
Mounting bracket screws Replace with new
too long shorter screws
Burrs on shift tube Remove burrs or replace
tube
Lower bowl bearing See STEERING COLUMN
assembled wrong article
Shift tube bent or broken Replace as necessary
Improper adjustment of See STEERING COLUMN
shift levers article
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Improper Trans. Sheared shift tube joint Replace as necessary
Shifting
Sheared lower shaft lever Replace as necessary
Improper shift lever See STEERING COLUMN
adjustment article

Page 1424 of 1501

Improper gate plate See STEERING COLUMN
adjustment article
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Excess Play in Instrument panel bracket Tighten bolts and check
Column bolts loose bracket
Broken weld nut on jacket See STEERING COLUMN
article
Instrument bracket capsule See STEERING COLUMN
sheared article
Column bracket/jacket Tighten bolts and check
bolts loose bracket
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Steering Locks Release lever mechanism See STEERING COLUMN
in Gear article
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SUSPENSION TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended
to be specific to any unique situation or individual vehicle
configuration. The purpose of this Trouble Shooting
information is to provide a list of common causes to
problem symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting,
refer to SUBJECT, DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available
in the section(s) you are accessing.
BASIC SUSPENSION TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION\
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Front End Noise Loose or worn wheel See Wheel Bearing
Adjustment in
SUSPENSION
Worn shocks or shock Replace struts or strut
mountings mountings
Worn struts or strut Replace struts or strut
mountings mountings
Loose or worn lower control See SUSPENSION
arm
Loose steering gear-to- See STEERING
frame bolts
Worn control arm bushings See SUSPENSION
Ball joints not lubricated Lubricate ball joints &
see Ball Joint Checking
in SUSPENSION
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Front Wheel Tires or wheels out of Check tire balance
Shake, Shimmy, balance
or Vibration
Incorrect wheel alignment See WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Drive shaft unbalanced Check drive shaft
balance

Page 1465 of 1501

WHEEL ALIGNMENT PROCEDURES
CAMBER ADJUSTMENT
Except Montero, Montero Sport & 3000GT
Camber is preset and cannot be adjusted. Check camber. See
appropriate table under WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS . If camber is
not within specification, replace damaged or bent parts.
Montero & Montero Sport
1) Check camber. See appropriate table under
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS . If camber is not within specification,
remove shock absorber mounting nut and lock nut.
CAUTION: Difference in shim thickness between front and rear must not
exceed 0.16" (4.0 mm). DO NOT use more than 3 shims at
onelocation.
2) Compress shock absorber, and loosen upper arm mounting
bolts and nuts. Adjust camber by increasing or decreasing shims
between upper arm shaft and crossmember. See Fig. 6.
Fig. 6: Adjusting Camber & Caster (Montero Sport Shown; Montero Is
Similar)
Courtesy of Mitsubishi Motor Sales of America.
3000GT
Check camber. See WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS (3000GT)
table. If camber is not within specification, loosen eccentric cam
nut. Rotate eccentric cam bolt to obtain correct camber. See Fig. 7.
Each marking represents a change of .12-.25 degree of camber.

Page 1466 of 1501

Fig. 7: Adjusting Camber (3000GT)
Courtesy of Mitsubishi Motor Sales of America.
CASTER ADJUSTMENT
Except Montero & Montero Sport
Check caster. See appropriate table under
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS . If caster is not within specification,
replace damaged or bent parts.
Montero & Montero Sport
1) Check caster. See appropriate table under
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS . If caster is not within specification,
remove shock absorber mounting nut and lock nut.
CAUTION: Difference in shim thickness between front and rear must not
exceed .16" (4.0 mm). DO NOT use more than 3 shims at one
location.
2) Compress shock absorber, and loosen upper arm mounting
bolts and nuts. Adjust caster by increasing or decreasing shims
between upper arm shaft and crossmember. See Fig. 6.
TOE-IN ADJUSTMENT
Front
Check front toe-in. See appropriate table under
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS . If front toe-in is not within
specification, remove clips. Turn tie rods or turnbuckles same amount,
but in opposite directions. Recheck front toe-in.
Rear (Montero & Montero Sport)
Check rear toe-in. See appropriate table under

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