steering CADILLAC ESCALADE ESV 2005 2.G Owner's Guide

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels will
not get good traction. You cannot accelerate as
quickly, turning is more difficult, and you will need longer
braking distances.
It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud — the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep
mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you do
not get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in
wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely
packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand, such as
on beaches or sand dunes, your tires will tend to
sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering,
accelerating and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and
avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you
will have difficulty accelerating. And, if you do get
moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause
you to slide out of control.
{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can
be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents
under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the
ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and
you and your passengers could drown. Drive
your vehicle on safe surfaces only.
4-27

Driving in Water
Heavy rain can mean ash ooding, and ood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it is deep enough to cover your wheel hubs,
axles or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will
not get through. Also, water that deep can damage
your axle and other vehicle parts.
If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At
faster speeds, water splashes on your ignition
system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also
occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long
as your tailpipe is under water, you will never be
able to start your engine. When you go through water,
remember that when your brakes get wet, it may
take you longer to stop.
{CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be
dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle
downstream and you and your passengers
could drown.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
If it is only shallow water, it can still wash
away the ground from under your tires, and
you could lose traction and roll the vehicle
over. Do not drive through rushing water.
SeeDriving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-30for
more information on driving through water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust
system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and
cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
4-28

What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice
can be even more trouble because it may offer the least
traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about
freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try
to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If
you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more. See
StabiliTrak
®System on page 4-8,If Your Vehicle is
Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow on page 4-42,
andRocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-42.
Your anti-lock brake system (ABS) improves your
vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a
slippery road. Even though you have ABS, you will want
to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry
pavement. SeeAnti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on
page 4-6.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ne
until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On
an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such
as around clumps of trees, behind buildings,
or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve
or an overpass may remain icy when the
surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of
ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not
to brake while you are actually on the ice, and
avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
4-39

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to
spin your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking
can help you get out when you are stuck, but you
must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they
can explode, and you or others could be
injured. And, the transmission or other parts of
the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
engine compartment re or other damage.
When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little
as possible. Do not spin the wheels above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.Notice:Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transmission
back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For more information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 5-76.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That
will clear the area around your front wheels. If your
vehicle has the StabiliTrak
®System, turn the system off
by pressing the StabiliTrak®button so that the
STABILITY SYS DISABLED message and the traction
off light are illuminated on the instrument panel
cluster. Then shift back and forth between
REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels
as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal
while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal
when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning
your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you
will cause a rocking motion that may free your
vehicle. If that does not get you out after a few tries,
you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use
your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do
need to be towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on
page 4-49.
4-42

Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
4-57

Service............................................................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work.........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
Your Vehicle..............................................5-5
Fuel................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane............................................5-5
Gasoline Specications....................................5-6
California Fuel...............................................5-6
Additives.......................................................5-7
Fuels in Foreign Countries...............................5-8
Filling the Tank..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container.....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood....................5-10
Hood Release..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview.......................5-12
Engine Oil...................................................5-13
Engine Oil Life System..................................5-16
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter................................5-18
Automatic Transmission Fluid.........................5-21
Engine Coolant.............................................5-23
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap..................5-26
Engine Overheating.......................................5-26
Overheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode........................................5-28
Cooling System............................................5-28
Engine Fan Noise.........................................5-33Power Steering Fluid.....................................5-33
Windshield Washer Fluid................................5-34
Brakes........................................................5-36
Battery........................................................5-39
Jump Starting...............................................5-40
All-Wheel Drive..............................................5-45
Rear Axle.......................................................5-45
Front Axle......................................................5-46
Headlamp Aiming...........................................5-48
Headlamp Horizontal Aiming...........................5-49
Headlamp Vertical Aiming..............................5-50
Bulb Replacement..........................................5-51
High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting............5-51
Halogen Bulbs..............................................5-52
Headlamps..................................................5-52
Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Daytime
Running Lamps.........................................5-56
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker, Stoplamps
and Back-up Lamps...................................5-57
Replacement Bulbs.......................................5-58
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement..............5-58
Tires..............................................................5-59
Tire Sidewall Labelling...................................5-60
Tire Terminology and Denitions.....................5-63
Ination - Tire Pressure.................................5-65
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
5-1

Hood Release
To open the hood do the following:
1. Pull the handle with
this symbol on it.
It is located inside
the vehicle to the
lower left of the
steering wheel.
2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on
the secondary hood release located near the
center of the grille.
3. Lift the hood.
Before closing the hood, be sure all the ller caps
are on properly. Then pull down the hood and close
it rmly.
5-11

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-18.
B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. SeeCooling
System on page 5-28andCoolant Surge Tank
Pressure Cap on page 5-26.
C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped). See
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-18.
D. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-13.
E. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-13.
F. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See
“Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-21.
G. Engine Cooling Fan. SeeCooling System on
page 5-28.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). SeeJump
Starting on page 5-40.
I. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. SeeJump Starting on
page 5-40.J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (Out of View). See
Power Steering Fluid on page 5-33.
K. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under
Brakes on page 5-36.
L. Underhood Fuse Block. SeeUnderhood Fuse Block
on page 5-111.
M. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-39.
N. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-34.
Engine Oil
If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message appears on the
Driver Information Center (DIC), it means you need to
check your engine oil level right away. For more
information, see CHECK OIL LEVEL underDIC
Warnings and Messages on page 3-53.
You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is
an added reminder.
5-13

Engine Fan Noise
If your vehicle is equipped with a clutched engine
cooling fan, when the clutch is engaged, the fan spins
faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In
most everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning
slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves
fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy
vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside
temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch
more fully engages, so you may hear an increase in fan
noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as
the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It
is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The
fan will slow down when additional cooling is not
required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
If your vehicle is equipped with electric cooling fans, you
may hear the fans spinning at low speed during most
everyday driving. The fans may turn off if no cooling is
required. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing,
and/or high outside temperatures, or if you are operating
your air conditioning system, the fans change to high
speed and you may hear an increase in fan noise. This
is normal and indicates that the cooling system is
functioning properly. The fans will change to low speed
when additional cooling is no longer required.
Power Steering Fluid
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
power steering uid reservoir location.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power steering uid
unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or
you hear an unusual noise. A uid loss in this system
could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected
and repaired.
5-33

How to Check Power Steering Fluid
Locate the cap with this
symbol. SeeEngine
Compartment Overview on
page 5-12for more
information on location.
To check the power steering uid, do the following:
1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment
cool down.
2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean.
3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a
clean rag.
4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it.
5. Remove the cap again and look at the uid level on
the dipstick.
The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If
necessary, add only enough uid to bring the level up to
the mark.
What to Use
To determine what kind of uid to use, see
Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14.
Always use the proper uid. Failure to use the proper
uid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.
Windshield Washer Fluid
What to Use
When you need windshield washer uid, be sure to read
the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will
be operating your vehicle in an area where the
temperature may fall below freezing, use a uid that has
sufficient protection against freezing.
5-34