steering CHEVROLET BLAZER 1997 2.G Owner's Manual

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud. snow or sand. your wheels
won't get good traction. You can't accelerate as quickly,
turning is more difficult. and you'll need longer
braking distances.
It's best
to use a low gear when you're in mud -- the
deeper the mud. the lower the gear.
In really deep mud.
the idea is
to keep your vehicle moving so you don't
b *et stuck.
When you drive on sand,
you'll sense a change in wheel
traction. But
it will depend upon how loosely packed the
sand is.
On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand
dunes) your tires will tend to
sink into the sand. This has
an effect on steering. accelerating and braking.
You may
want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly
when driving on sand. This
will improve traction.
Hard packed
snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces,
it's very easy to lose control. On wet
ice,
for example. the traction is so poor that you will
have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving,
poor steering and difficult braking can
came you to slide
out
of control.
I A CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs. currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your
vehicle could fall through the
ice and you and
your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle
on safe surfaces only.
Driving in Water
Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems.
But heavy rain can mean tlash flooding, and flood
waters demand extreme caution.
Find out
how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it's deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or
exhaust pipe. don't
try it -- you probably won't get
through. Also. water that deep can damage your axle
and other vehicle parts.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine If the water isn’t too deep, then drive through it slowly.
At fast speeds, water splashes
on your ignition system
and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you
b get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your
tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able
to start your
engine. When
you go through water, remember that
when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer
to stop.
I A CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown.
If it’s
only shallow water, it can still wash away the
ground from under your tires, and you could lose
traction and roll the vehicle over. Don’t drive
through rushing water.
See “Driving Through Water” in the Index for more
information on driving throwh water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis or under the hood. These
accumulations can be
a fire hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have
the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure.
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system
for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling
system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due
to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine A
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What’s the worst time for this’? “Wet ice.“ Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard
to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because
it may offer the
least traction
of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about
freezing
(32°F; OOC) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there. Whatever
the condition
-- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
-- drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try
not to break the fragile traction. If
you accelerate too fast. the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop
on a slippery road. Even
though
you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll
want
to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry
pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in
the Index.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around
clumps
of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may
remain icy
when the surrounding roads are clear. If
you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you
are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on
the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
4-38

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Recreational Vehicle Towing (Four-wheel Drive With Manual
Shift Transfer
Case Only)
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Place an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a
manual transmission in FIRST ( 1 ).
3. Firmly attach the vehicle being towed to the tow
vehicle.
Do not tow the vehicle by the rear bumper
bar. Refer
to the hitch manufacturer’s instructions.
4. Place the manual shift transfer case shift lever in
NEUTRAL
(N).
I A CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case into NEUTRAL (N) can
cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission
is in PARK (P), for an automatic transmission, or
if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual
transmission.
You or others could be injured.
Make sure the parking brake
is firmly set before
you shift the transfer case into NEUTRAL
(N).
5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed
is firmly attached to the tow vehicle.
6. Insert the ignition key into the ignition switch and
turn it
one notch forward of the LOCK position. This
places the key
in the OFF position, which unlocks
the steering column while preventing battery drain.
Unlocking the steering column
will allow for proper
movement
of the front wheelshires during towing.
4-41

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you
would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This
can help
you avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you‘re towing
a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer,
you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return
to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand
to the right. Always back up slowly and, if
possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns
I NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could
cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal.
Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft
shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well
in advance.
I’urn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring and
a heavy-duty turn signal flasher (included in
the optional trailering package).
The arrows
on your instrument panel will flash
whenever you signal
a turn or lane change. Properly
hooked up, the trailer lamps will
also flash, telling other
drivers you‘re about
to turn, change lanes or stop.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Hazard Warning Flashers
Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They
also let police know you have a problem. Your front and
rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off. Press
the button
on top of
the steering column all the
way down
to make your
front and rear turn signal
lamps flash
on and off.
Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what
position your key is
in, and even if the key isn’t in.
To turn off the flashers, press the button until the first
click and release.
When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn
signals won’t work.
Other Warning Devices
If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at
the side of the road about
300 feet (100 m) behind
your vehicle.
5-2

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key
turned to the OFF position. The steering wheel should
be clamped in
a straight-ahead position with a clamping
device designed for towing service.
Do not use the
vehicle's steering column lock for this. The transmission
should be in NEUTRAL
(N) and the transfer case, if you
have one, should be in 2HI. The parking brake should
be released.
If your vehicie has a floor mounted shifter and no
electrical power, the electrical solenoid lock must be
overridden
to shift from PARK (P) to NEUTRAL (N).
Follow these steps:
1. Push the base of the shift lever boot forward with
your thumb.
2. Lift the boot and find the white solenoid lever.
1-
3.
4.
5.
Move the solenoid lever toward the driver's side to
unlock it.
While holding the solenoid lever in the unlock
position, press the shift lever button and shift into
NEUTRAL
(N).
Release the solenoid lever and snap the boot back
into place.
Don't have your vehicle towed on the drive wheels
unless you must.
If the vehicle must be towed on the
drive wheels, be sure to follow the speed and distance
restrictions later in this section or your transmission will
be damaged.
If these limitations must be exceeded, then
the drive wheels have to
be supported on a dolly.
5-9

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch
is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air
to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the clutch
is not engaged. This improves
fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy
vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside
temperatures. the fan speed increases when the clutch
engages.
So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This
is normal and should
not be mistaken as the
transmission slipping or making extra shifts.
It is merely
the cooling system functioning properly. The
fa11 will
slow down when additional cooling is not required and
the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine.
It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to "blow out" while you're driving.
especially
if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much Inore likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have ;I "blowout." here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails. the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer
to maintain lane position. and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout. particularly on a curve. acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use in a
skid. In any rear blowout. remove your foot from the
xcelerator pedal. Get the \,chicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
\.cry bunlpy and noisy. but you can still steer. Gently
brake
to a stop -- well off the road if possible.
5-22

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine I NOTICE: I
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your
vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels
too fast while shifting your transmission back
and forth,
you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
see “Tire Chains”
in the Index.
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear
the area around your front wheels. Then shift back
and forth between
REVERSE (R) and a forward gear
(or with a manual transmission, between FIRST ( 1) or
SECOND (2) and REVERSE(R)), spinning the wheels
as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while
you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal
when the transmission is
in gear. If that doesn’t get you
out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out.
Or, you can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has
them. If you do need to be towed out, see ”Towing
Your Vehicle”
in the Index.
Using the Recovery Hooks
P
Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks.
The recovery
hooks are provided at the front of your
vehicle. You may need to use them
if you’re stuck
off-road and need
to be pulled to some place where you
can continue driving.
5-37

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then
it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your
vehicle, and a part devoted
to its appearance care.
6-3
6-4
6-5
6-6
6-9 6-
13
6- 14
6-18
6- 19
6-
20
6-2 1
6-23
6-26
6-26
6-26 6-27
Fuel
Fuels in Foreign Countries
Filling Your Tank
Checking Things Under the Hood
Engine Oil
Air Cleaner
Automatic Transmission Fluid
Manual Transmission Fluid
Hydraulic Clutch
Rear Axle
Four-wheel Drive and All-Wheel Drive
Engine Coolant Radiator Pressure Cap
Thermostat Power Steering Fluid
Windshield Washer Fluid 6-28
6-32
6-3 3 6-3 8
6-40 6-49
6-49
6-52
6-54
6-5
7
6-5 8
6-58
6-58
6-62
6-63
6-64
Brakes
Battery
Bulb Replacement
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
Tires
Appearance Care
Cleaning the Inside
of Your Vehicle
Care
of Safety Belts
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
Appearance Care Materials Chart
Vehicle Identification Number
(VIN)
Service Parts Identification Label
Electrical System
Replacement Bulbs
Capacities and Specifications
Air Conditioning Refrigerants