battery CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982 Repair Guide

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 629
as much voltage to fire the plug at hi
gh speeds than at idle. The improved
air/fuel ratio control of modern fuel injection combin ed with the higher voltage
output of modern ignition systems will often allow an engine to run significantly
longer on a set of standard spark plugs, but keep in mind that efficiency will
drop as the gap widens (along wit h fuel economy and power).
When you're removing spark plugs, work on one at a time. Don't start by
removing the plug wires all at once, because, unless you number them, they
may become mixed up. Take a minute before you begin and number the wires
with tape.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cabl e, and if the vehicle has been run
recently, allow the engine to thoroughly cool.
2. Carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to loosen it, then pull upward and
remove the boot from the plug. Be su re to pull on the boot and not on the
wire, otherwise the connector locat ed inside the boot may become
separated.
3. Using compressed air, blow any water or debris from the spark plug well
to assure that no harmful contam inants are allowed to enter the
combustion chamber when the spark plug is removed. If compressed air
is not available, use a rag or a brush to clean the area.
Remove the spark plugs when the engine is cold, if possible, to prevent damage
to the threads. If removal of the plugs is difficult, apply a few drops of
penetrating oil or silicone spray to t he area around the base of the plug, and
allow it a few minutes to work.
4. Using a spark plug socket that is equipped with a rubber insert to
properly hold the plug, turn the spar k plug counterclockwise to loosen
and remove the spark pl ug from the bore.
WARNING - Be sure not to use a flexible extension on the socket. Use of a
flexible extension may allow a shear fo rce to be applied to the plug. A shear
force could break the plug off in the cylinder head, leading to costly a\
nd
frustrating repairs.
To install:
5. Inspect the spark plug boot for t ears or damage. If a damaged boot is
found, the spark plug wire must be replaced.
6. Using a wire feeler gauge, check and adjust the spark plug gap. When
using a gauge, the proper size shoul d pass between the electrodes with
a slight drag. The next larger size should not be able to pass while the\

next smaller size should pass freely.
7. Carefully thread the plug into the bor e by hand. If resistance is felt before
the plug is almost completely th readed, back the plug out and begin
threading again. In small, hard to r each areas, an old spark plug wire and
boot could be used as a th reading tool. The boot will hold the plug while
you twist the end of the wire and t he wire is supple enough to twist
before it would allow t he plug to crossthread.

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The tachometer terminal should never
be allowed to touch ground, as damage
to the computer control module and/or ignition coil assembly can result.
CONNECTORS
When disengaging connectors, do not use a screw driver or other tool to release
the locking tab, as this mi ght break the connector.
SYSTEM TESTERS
Instruments designed specific ally for testing HEI or C
3I systems are available
from several tool manufactur ers. Some of these will even test the module itself.
However, the tests given in the followin g section will require only an ohmmeter
and a voltmeter.
TESTING
The symptoms of a defective component within the HEI or C
3I system are
exactly the same as those you woul d encounter in a conventional system.
Some of these symptoms are:
• Hard or no starting
• Rough Idle
• Poor fuel economy
• Engine misses under load or while accelerating
PRELIMINARY CHECKS
If you suspect a problem in your igniti on system, there are certain preliminary
checks which you should carry out befor e you begin to check the electronic
portions of the system. First, it is extrem ely important to make sure the vehicle
battery is in a good state of charge. A defective or poorly charged battery will
cause the various components of the ignition system to read incorrectly when
they are being tested. Second, make su re all wiring connections are clean and
tight, not only at the battery, but also at the distributor cap (if so equipped),
ignition coil, camshaft and/or crankshaft sensors (if so equipped) and at the
control module.
Since the only difference between these ignition systems lies before the spark
plug wiring, it is important to check the secondary ig nition circuit first. If the
secondary circuit checks out properly (ther e is spark), then the engine condition
is probably not the fault of the ignition system. To check the secondary ignition
system, perform a simple spark test. Remove one of the plug wires and insert
some sort of extension in the plug socket. An old spark plug with the ground
electrode removed makes a good extension. Hold the wire and extension using
an insulated tool (NOT BY HAND) about
1/4 in. (6mm) away from the block and
crank the engine. If a normal spark occurs, then the problem is most likely not in
the ignition system. Check for fuel system problems, or fouled spark plugs.

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If, however, there is no spark or a weak
spark, then further ignition system
testing will have to be done. Troubleshooting techniques fall into various
categories, depending on t he nature of the problem and the system being
tested. Categories will include symptom s such as the engine cranks, but will not
start or the engine runs rough.
HEI SYSTEM
When testing the HEI system, there are 2 major categories of problems, (1)
Engine cranks, but will not star t or (2) Engine runs, but runs rough or cuts out.
If the engine will not start, perform a spar k test as described earlier. This will
narrow the problem area down considerab ly. If no spark occurs, check for the
presence of normal battery voltage at the battery ( BAT) terminal on the ignition
coil. The ignition switch must be in the ON position for this test. Either a
voltmeter or a test light wire may be us ed for this test. Connect the test light
wire to ground and the probe end to the BAT terminal at the coil. If the light
comes on, you have voltage to the distribut or and/or spark plug wires. If the light
fails to come on, this indicates an open circuit in the ignition primary wiring
leading to the distributor. In this case , you will have to check wiring continuity
back to the ignition switch using a test li ght. If there is battery voltage at the BAT
terminal, but no spark at the plugs, t hen the problem probably lies within the
distributor assembly.
If, on the other hand, the engine starts, but runs roughly or cuts out, make sure
the plug wires are in good shape first. There should be no obvious cracks or
breaks. You can check the plug wires with an ohmmeter, but do not pierce the
wires with a probe. Check the chart for th e correct plug wire resistance. If the
plug wires are OK, remove the cap asse mbly and check for moisture, cracks,
chips, or carbon tracks, or any other hi gh voltage leads or failures. Replace the
cap if any defects are found. Make su re the timer wheel rotates when the
engine is cranked.
If the trouble has been narrowed down to t he units within the distributor, the
following tests can help pinpoint the defective component. An ohmmeter with
both high and low ranges shou ld be used. These tests are made with the cap
assembly removed and the battery wir e disconnected. If a tachometer is
connected to the TACH terminal, disconnect it before making these tests.
IGNITION COIL
EXTERNALLY MOUNTED 1. Disconnect the coil wires and se t the ohmmeter on the high scale.
2. Connect the ohmmeter to the ignition co il as illustrated in Step 1 of the
accompanying figure.
3. The ohmmeter should read near infinite or very high.

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3. If no defects have been found at this
time, and you still have a problem,
then the module will have to be che cked. If you do not have access to a
module tester, the only possible alter native is a substitution test. If the
module fails the substitution test, replace it.
COMPONENT REPLACEMENT

CAUTION - When handling secondar y spark plug leads with the engine running
or starting, insulated pliers must be used and care exercised to prevent a
possible electrical shock.
HEI SYSTEM
IGNITION COIL
EXTERNALLY MOUNTED
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the ignition coil wire from the coil. Do so by pulling on the
boot of the wire while twisting it.
3. Disconnect the harness connecto r from the ignition coil.
4. Remove the coil mounting screws and the ignition coil. If necessary, drill
out and remove the rivets holding the coil to the bracket.
To install: 5. Place the ignition coil in position on the mounting bracket and install the
mounting screws.
6. Reconnect the harness connectors to the ignition coil. Confirm that the
harness connectors are firmly attached to the coil.
7. Install the secondary coil wire to the coil tower.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.

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INTERNALLY MOUNTED
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the cover and wire retainer.
3. Disconnect the battery feed wire and coil connections from the cap.
4. Remove the coil cover attaching screws and cover.
5. Remove the coil attaching screws and lift the coil assembly from the
distributor cap.
To install: 6. Position the ignition coil and the leads into the cap. Be certain that the
resistor brush, ground lead and s eal are properly positioned.
7. Install the mounting screws.
8. Install the coil cove r and retainers. Reconnec t the feed wires and coil
connections to the cap.
9. Install the cover and wire retainer. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

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Fig. 6: Removing the distri butor cap. Notice that all towers on cap are labeled
with the corresponding engine cylinder number.
ROTOR 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the distributor cap.
3. Unscrew the two rotor attaching screws and then lift off the rotor.
4. For installation, make sure the roto r is positioned in the correct direction
and tighten the retaining screws.
CAPACITOR
The capacitor, if equipped, is part of the ignition coil wire harness assembly.
Since the capacitor is used only for radio noise suppres sion, it will seldom need
replacement.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.
3. Remove the capacitor attaching screws and unplug the connector from
the module. Remove the module.
To install: 4. Plug the connector into the capacitor. Install the capacitor and secure in
place using the mounting screws. Be sure the ground lead is under the
screw.
5. Install the rotor and distributor cap.

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6. Connect the negative battery cable.
MODULE
It is not necessary to remove t he distributor from the vehicle.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and pickup coil.
3. Remove the 2 module attaching screws and lift the module up. Remove
the leads from the module, observi ng the colors on each lead. These
leads can not be interchanged.
If the module is to be reused, do not wi pe the grease from the module or the
distributor base. If a new module is to be installed, a package of silicone grease
will be included with it. Spr ead the grease on the metal face of the module and
on the distributor base wher e the module seats. This grease is necessary for
module cooling.
To install: 4. Install the module, tighten the reta ining screws and connect the wiring.
5. Install the distributor rotor and distributor cap.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.

Fig. 7: Ignition coil module mounting - always coat the base with silicone
dielectric grease.

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PICKUP COIL

Fig. 8: Pickup coil and related component s - distributor with external coil
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the distributor cap and then the rotor.
3. Remove 3 screws from the magnetic shield. Remove the magnetic shield
and C-washer. Remove the magnet, pole piece and pickup coil.
4. Installation is the revers e of the removal procedure.
IGNITION TIMING DESCRIPTION
Ignition timing is the measurement, in de grees of crankshaft rotation, of the
point at which the spark plugs fire in eac h of the cylinders. It is measured in
degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
Because it takes a fraction of a second for the spark plug to ignite the mixture in
the cylinder, the spark plug must fire a little before the piston reaches TDC.
Otherwise, the mixture will not be complete ly ignited as the piston passes TDC
and the full power of the explosion will not be used by the engine.
The timing measurement is given in degr ees of crankshaft rotation before the
piston reaches TDC (BTDC). If the setting fo r the ignition timing is 5° BTDC, the

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 654
spark plug must fire 5° before each pist
on reaches TDC. This only holds true,
however, when the engine is at idle speed.
As the engine speed increases, the pist ons go faster. The spark plugs have to
ignite the fuel even sooner if it is to be completely ignited when the piston
reaches TDC.
If the ignition is set too far advanced (B TDC), the ignition and expansion of the
fuel in the cylinder will occu r too soon and try to force the piston down while it is
still traveling up. This causes engine ping. If the ignition spark is set too far
retarded, after TDC (ATDC), the pi ston will have already passed TDC and
started on its way down when the fuel is igni ted. This will cause the piston to be
forced down for only a portion of its trav el, resulting in poor engine performance
and lack of power.
When timing the engine, the Number 1 pl ug wire should be used to trigger the
timing light. On engines where timing is adjustable, the notch for the No. 1
cylinder is usually scribed across all th ree edges of the double sheaf pulley.
Another notch located 180° away from t he No. 1 cylinder notch is scribed only
across the center section of the pulley to make it distinguishable from the No. 1
cylinder notch.
There are two basic types of timing light s available. The first type of light
operates from the car's battery. Two al ligator clips connect to the battery
terminals, while a third wire connects to the spark plug with an adapter or to the
spark plug wire with an inductive pickup. This type of light is more expensive,
but the xenon bulb provides a nice bright flash which can even be seen in
sunlight. The second type replaces the battery source with 110-volt house
current. Some timing lights have other func tions built into them, such as dwell
meters, tachometers, or re mote starting switches. These are convenient, in that
they reduce the tangle of wires under t he hood, but may duplicate the functions
of tools you already have.
Because this car uses electronic ignition, you should use a timing light with an
inductive pickup. This pickup simply cl amps around the Number 1 spark plug
wire (in this case, the coil wire), elimin ating the adapter. It is not susceptible to
crossfiring or false triggering, which ma y occur with a conventional light due to
the greater voltages produc ed by these systems.
ADJUSTMENT
When adjusting the timing, refer to the instructions on the emission control
sticker inside the engine compartment. If th e instructions on the label disagree
with the procedure listed below, follo w the instructions on the label.
1982-87 VEHICLES 1. Locate the timing marks on the cran kshaft pulley and the front of the
engine.

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8. Once the timing is set to specific
ation, tighten the distributor hold-down
clamp. Recheck the timing to make su re it did not change while the bolt
was being tightened.
9. Remove the jumper wire from the ALDL connector, if applicable, with the
engine still running. (Usually, if this is performed before the engine is
shut off, no trouble codes will be stored.)
10. Turn the engine OFF, then remove the timing light and tachometer.
Reconnect the number 1 spark plug wire, if disconnected.
11. Attach the 4-wire EST connector at the distributor, or reconnect the Set
Timing connector, if applicable.
12. Check for fault code 42, and clear, if necessary, by disconnecting the
negative battery cable for at least 30 seconds.
To prevent ECM damage, the key must be in the OFF position when
disconnecting or reconnecting battery cables.
1988-90 VEHICLES
When adjusting the timing, refer to the instructions on the emission control
sticker inside the engine compartment. If th e instructions on the label disagree
with the procedure listed below, follo w the instructions on the label.
1. Locate the timing marks on the cran kshaft pulley and the front of the
engine.
2. Clean off the marks and coat them with white paint or chalk, so that they
may be easily seen.
3. Run the engine until it reaches no rmal operating temperature, then shut
off the engine.
4. With the ignition OFF, connect a ta chometer to the distributor, and a
timing light with an inductive pickup lead to the No. 1 spark plug wire.
WARNING - Never pierce a secondary ignition wire in order to connect a timing
light. A pierced wire may lead to engine misfiring and driveability problems.
5. Start the engine. With the engine running and all accessories off, use a
jumper wire to connect diagnostic terminal B and ground terminal A of
the 12-terminal Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL), located under the
instrument panel.
If jumping the ALDL terminals does not prevent timing advance, the EST
bypass wire will have to be disconnected instead.
6. Aim the timing light at the timing mark. The line on the balancer or pulley
will line up with the timing mark. If a change in timing is necessary,
loosen the hold-down clamp bolt at t he base of the distributor. While
observing the timing mark, rotate the distributor slightly until the line
indicates the correct timing. Use t he timing specification on the emission
control label in the engine compartm ent. If this label is missing or
damaged, refer to the Tune- Up Specifications chart in this Section.