hose CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982 Repair Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 1982, Model line: CAMARO, Model: CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982Pages: 875, PDF Size: 88.64 MB
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GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 82
Avoid inhaling any dust from
any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces,
use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.
1. Remove
2/3 of the brake fluid from the mast er cylinder. Raise the vehicle and
remove the wheel.
2. Place a C-clamp across the caliper, positioned on the brake pads. Tighten it
until the piston is forced into its bore.
3. Remove the C-clamp. Remove the bolt holding the brake hose to the caliper.
4. Remove the Allen head caliper mounting bolts. Inspect them for corrosion
and replace them if necessary. Remove the caliper.
To install:
5. Position the caliper with the brake pad installed and install Allen head caliper
mounting bolts. Mounting bo lt torque is 21-35 ft. lbs. (28-47 Nm.) for the
caliper.
6. Install the bolt holding the brake hos e to the caliper and tighten to 18-30 ft.
lbs. (24-40 Nm.).
7. Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid.
8. Install the wheels and lower the vehicle.
CAUTION - Before moving the vehicle, pump the brakes several times to seat
the brake pad against the rotor
OVERHAUL
Some vehicles may be equipped dual piston calipers. The procedure to
overhaul the caliper is e ssentially the same with t he exception of multiple
pistons, O-rings and dust boots.
1. Remove the caliper from the ve hicle and place on a clean workbench.
CAUTION - NEVER place your finger s in front of the pistons in an attempt to
catch or protect the pistons when applying compressed air. This could result in
personal injury!
Depending upon the vehicle, there are two different ways to remove the piston
from the caliper. Refer to the brake pad replacement procedure to make sure
you have the correct procedure for your vehicle.
2. The first method is as follows: a. Stuff a shop towel or a block of wood into the caliper to catch the piston.
b. Remove the caliper piston using co mpressed air applied into the caliper
inlet hole. Inspect the piston for scor ing, nicks, corrosion and/or worn or
damaged chrome plating. The piston mu st be replaced if any of these
conditions are found.
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4. Position a C-clamp a
nd tighten until the piston bottoms in the base of the
caliper housing. Make sure 1 end of the C-clamp rests on the inlet fitting bolt
and the other against the outboard disc brake pad.
It is not necessary to remove the parki ng brake caliper lever return spring to
replace the disc brake pads.
5. Remove the upper caliper guide pin bolt and discard.
6. Rotate the caliper housing. Be careful not to strain the hose or cable conduit.
7. Remove the disc brake pads.
To install:
8. Clean all residue from the pad guide surfaces on the mounting bracket and
caliper housing. Inspect the guide pins for free movement in the mounting
bracket. Replace the guide pins or boot s, if they are corroded or damaged.
9. Install the disc brake pads. The out board pad with insulator is installed
toward the caliper housing. The inboard pad with the w ear sensor is installed
nearest the caliper piston. The wear sens or must be in the trailing position
with forward wheel rotation.
10. Rotate the caliper housing into it 's operating position. The springs on the
outboard brake pad must not stick through the inspection hole in the caliper
housing. If the springs are sticking thr ough the inspection hole in the caliper
housing, lift the caliper housing and make the necessary corrections to the
outboard brake pad positions.
11. Install a new upper cali per guide pin bolt and tight en to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
Tighten the lower caliper guide pin bolt to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
12. With the engine runni ng, pump the brake pedal slo wly and firmly to seat the
brake pads.
13. Check the caliper parking brake levers to make sure they are against the
stops on the caliper housing. If the leve rs are not on their stops, check the
parking brake adjustment.
14. Remove the 2 wheel nuts from t he rotor and install the wheel and tire
assembly.
15. Lower the vehicle, che ck the master cylinder fluid level and road test the
vehicle.
BRAKE CALIPER
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
CAUTION - Brake pads contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a
cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air!
Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces,
use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.
1982-88 MODELS
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5. Remove the shaft seal and washer.
6. Remove the dust boot. Be careful not to scratch the housing bore.
7. Remove the locator retainer if so
equipped. Remove the piston locator if so
equipped.
8. Remove the piston seal usi ng a wooden or plastic tool.
9. Remove the bleeder screw, bolt, fi tting, and copper washer. Remove the
bracket only if it is damaged.
10. Inspect caliper bore for scoring, nicks, corrosion, and wear. Use crocus cloth
for light corrosion. Replace caliper if bore will not clean up.
To install:
11. Replace the bleeder screw, bolt, fitting, and copper washer.
12. Install the piston. Lubricate seal s and piston with brake fluid prior to
reinstallation.
13. Install the locator retainer if so equi pped. Install the piston locator if so
equipped.
14. Install the dust boot.
15. Install the shaft seal and washer.
16. Install actuator scr ew to the housing.
17. Install the nut, lever, lever seal, and anti-friction washer. It may be necessary
to rotate the parking brake lever away from the stop to install the nut. Torque
the nut 30-40 ft. lbs. (41-54 Nm) and ro tate the lever back to the stop.
18. Install the shoe dampening spri ng to the end of the piston.
It may be necessary to move the parking brake lever off the stop, extending the
piston slightly, making the dampening spring groove acce ssible. If the piston is
extended, push it back into the caliper before installing the caliper on the car.
1989-92 MODELS
1. Remove the caliper assembly. Remove the 2 collar return springs from the
actuating collar. Remove the actuator collar assembly with parts attached
out of the housing.
2. Remove the clamp rod and compliance bushing.
3. Remove the boot retainers, 2 boots and pushrod from the compliance
bushing. Discard the retainers and boots.
4. Remove the preload spring from the retainer.
5. Using compressed air directed into the brake hose port, carefully extract
piston.
CAUTION - Do not place fingers between piston and brake shoe flange, or
personal injury may occur when piston breaks free from bore. Cover caliper
assembly with a rag to prevent brake fluid from spraying when piston is
extracted
6. Inspect and clean piston and bore a ssembly for cracks or scoring.
7. Remove the piston seal.
8. Remove the bleeder valve.
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The normal automotive circuit differs from
this simple example in two ways.
First, instead of having a return wire from the bulb to the battery, the current
travels through the frame of the vehicle. Since the negative (—) battery cable is
attached to the frame (made of electrically conductive metal), the frame of the
vehicle can serve as a ground wire to complete the circuit. Secondly, mo\
st
automotive circuits contain multiple components which receive power from a
single circuit. This lessens the amount of wire needed to power components on
the vehicle.
HOW DOES ELECTRICITY WORK: THE WATER ANALOGY
Electricity is the flow of electrons - t he subatomic particles that constitute the
outer shell of an atom. Elec trons spin in an orbit around the center core of an
atom. The center core is comprised of protons (positive charge) and neutrons
(neutral charge). Electrons have a negativ e charge and balance out the positive
charge of the protons. When an outside forc e causes the number of electrons to
unbalance the charge of the protons, the electrons will split off the atom and
look for another atom to balance out. If th is imbalance is kept up, electrons will
continue to move and an elec trical flow will exist.
Many people have been taught electrical th eory using an analogy with water. In
a comparison with water flowing through a pipe, the electrons would be the
water and the wire is the pipe.
The flow of electricity can be measur ed much like the flow of water through a
pipe. The unit of measur ement used is amperes, frequently abbreviated as
amps (a). You can compare amperage to th e volume of water flowing through a
pipe. When connected to a circuit, an ammeter will measure the actual amount
of current flowing through the circuit. W hen relatively few electrons flow through
a circuit, the amperage is low. When many electrons flow, the amperage is high.
Water pressure is measured in units su ch as pounds per square inch (psi); The
electrical pressure is m easured in units called volts (v). When a voltmeter is
connected to a circuit, it is meas uring the electrical pressure.
The actual flow of electricity depends not only on voltage and amperage, but
also on the resistance of the circuit. T he higher the resistance, the higher the
force necessary to push the current through the circuit. The standard unit for
measuring resistance is an ohm. Resistance in a circuit varies depending on the
amount and type of components used in t he circuit. The main factors which
determine resistance are:
• Material - some materials have more resistance than others. Those with
high resistance are said to be insulato rs. Rubber materials (or rubber-like
plastics) are some of the most common insulators used in vehicles as
they have a very high resistance to electricity. Very low resistance
materials are said to be conductors. Copper wire is among the best
conductors. Silver is actually a super ior conductor to copper and is used
in some relay contacts, but its hi gh cost prohibits its use as common
wiring. Most automotive wir ing is made of copper.
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HEATER CORE
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
CAUTION - When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are
attracted by the ethylene gl ycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that
is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove
fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drai n the coolant into a sealable container.
Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.
1. Drain the cooling system.
2. Remove both heater hoses.
3. Remove the lower right hush panel.
4. Remove the lower right instru ment panel and the ESC module if
necessary.
5. Remove the lower right in strument panel-to-cowl screw.
6. Remove the heater case screws.
The upper left screw may be reached with a long socket extension. Carefully lift
the lower right corner of the instrument panel to align the extension.
7. Remove the case cover.
8. Remove the support plate and baffle screws.
9. Remove the heater core and ba ffle plate from the housing.
To install: 10. Position the heater core and baffle plate into the housing.
11. Install the support plate and baffle screws.
12. Install the case cover.
13. Install the heater case screws.
14. Install the lower right in strument panel-to-cowl screw.
15. Install the lower right instrument panel and the ESC module if necessary.
16. Install the lower right hush panel.
17. Install both heater hoses.
18. Fill the cooling system and check for leaks.
Fig. 1: Heater module assembly
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Fig. 2: Removing the heater core inlet hoses
Fig. 3: Removing the sound insulator attaching screws
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HOT WATER VALVE
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Not all model years and engine applic
ations use hot water valves.
1. Drain the coolant.
2. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the hot water valve by sliding the tab of
the connector past the L-shaped bend in the ac tuator vacuum tube.
Then, slide the hose connector off the tube while continuing to hold the
tab back against the connector end.
3. Disconnect the heater hos es from the valve.
To install: 4. Install the valve with the vacuum actuator faci ng up. The heater hoses
will hold the valve in position.
5. Install the vacuum hose to the actuator.
6. Refill the cooling system. R un the engine long enough to purge any
trapped air, then add more coolant if necessary.
7. Check for leaks.
Fig. 1: Hot water valve loca tion on carbureted V8 engines
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CRUISE CONTROL
CONTROL SWITCHES
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
RELEASE
SWITCH
1. At the brake switch, remove either the 2 electrical connectors or the
electrical connector and the vacuum hose.
2. Remove the switch from the retainer.
3. Remove the tubular retainer fr om the brake pedal mounting bracket.
To install: 4. Install the tubular retainer to the brake pedal mounting bracket.
5. Press the brake pedal and install the release switch into the retainer until
fully seated in the clips.
6. Connect the wiring and/or vac uum lines. Adjust the switch.
Fig. 1: Cruise control release switches
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Fig. 2: Cruise control release sw itch location; all models similar
ENGAGEMENT SWITCH
The engagement switch cannot be serviced . The complete multi-function lever
(turn signal lever) must be replaced as an assembly.
ADJUSTMENT
1. Depress the brake pedal and check that the release switch is fully seated
in the clips.
2. Slowly pull the brake pedal back to the at-rest position; the switch and
valve assembly will move within the clips to the adjusted position.
3. Measure pedal travel and check s witch engagement. The electric brake
release switch contacts must open at less than 1 inch (25.4 mm) of pedal
travel. The vacuum release should engage between
5/8 and 1 inch (16-
25mm) of pedal travel.
SERVO
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Disconnect the electrical connecto r and vacuum hoses at the servo.
2. Disconnect the actuating chain, cable or rod from the servo.
3. Remove the screws holding the vac uum servo and solenoid unit to the
bracket, then remove the unit.
To install:
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4. Connect the large diamet
er brake release vacuum line to the servo unit.
Connect the vacuum hose from the va cuum control valve to the servo
unit.
5. Connect the actuating chain, rod or cable to the servo.
6. Install the servo unit to the bracket; tighten the screws to 12 inch lbs. (1.4
Nm).
7. Install the electrical connector to the servo.
8. Adjust the cable, rod or chain.
Fig. 1: Servo mounting on 1982-1984 2.5L engines
Fig. 2: Servo mounting on 1982-1984 carbureted V6 and V8 engines