service CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982 Repair Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 1982, Model line: CAMARO, Model: CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982Pages: 875, PDF Size: 88.64 MB
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Federal law requires that the
odometer in any replacement
speedometer/odometer must r egister the same mileage as that registered on
the removed speedometer/odometer. Service replacement
speedometer/odometers and odometer modul es with the mileage preset to
actual vehicle mileage are available through the dealer. In nearly all cases, the
mileage continues to accumu late in the odometer memory even if the odometer
does not display mileage. Th is mileage can usually be verified by the dealer.
Contact the dealer for instructi ons to receive a replacement
speedometer/odometer with pres et mileage. If the actual vehicle mileage cannot
be verified, the dealer will supply a spe edometer/odometer with a display set to
zero miles. In addition, an odometer mileage sticker is supplied with the
replacement odometer. The sticker must display the estimated vehicle mileage
and is to be affixed to the driver's door.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. The gauges can be removed from the cluster assembly by: a. Removing the cluster lens.
b. Removing the printed circuit board from the back of the cluster.
c. Removing the gauge attaching screws.
2. Installation is the reverse of removal.
SPEEDOMETER CABLE
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Disconnect the negative batte ry cable at the battery.
2. On models without cruise control, disconnect the speedometer cable
strap at the power brake booster. On models with cruise control,
disconnect the speedometer cable at the cruise control transducer.
3. Remove the instrument cluster trim plate.
4. Remove the instrument cluster a ttaching screws and pull the cluster out
far enough to gain access to the r ear of the speedometer head.
5. Reach beneath the c able connection at the speedometer head, push in
on the cable retaining spring, and disconnect the cable from the
speedometer.
6. Slide the old cable ou t of the speedometer cable casing. If the cable is
broken, remove the cable from both ends of the casing. Using a short
piece of the old cable to fit t he speedometer connection, turn the
speedometer to increase the speed i ndicated on the dial and check for
any binding during rotation. If binding is noted, the speedometer must be
removed for repair or replacement. Check the entire cable casing for
extreme bends, chafing, breaks, et c., and replace if necessary.
To install: 7. Wipe the cable clean us ing a lint free cloth.
8. If the old casing is to be reused, flush the casing with petroleum spirits
and blow dry with compressed air.
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BUZZERS, RELAYS, AND FLASHERS
The electrical protection dev
ices are located in the convenience center, which is
a swing down unit located under the inst rument panel. All units are serviced by
plug-in replacements.
TURN SIGNAL FLASHER
The turn signal flasher is located inside th e convenience center. In order to gain
access to the turn signal flasher, it ma y be necessary to first remove the under
dash padding.
HAZARD FLASHER
The hazard flasher is located inside the convenience center. In order to gain
access to the turn signal flasher, it ma y be necessary to first remove the under
dash padding.
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Fig. 1: Neutral start/back-up light switch
4. To install a new switch: a. Place the switch onto the trans mission control shifter and loosely
install the attaching screws. Po sition the transmission control
shifter assembly in the N notch in the detent plate.
b. Assemble the switch to the tr ansmission control shifter assembly
by inserting the carrier tang into the hole in the shifter lever.
c. Install the attaching screws and tighten.
d. Move the transmission control shifter assembly out of N position.
This will shear the switch internal plastic pin.
5. To install the original switch:
a. Place the switch onto the trans mission control shifter and loosely
install the attaching screws. Po sition the transmission control
shifter assembly in the N notch in the detent plate.
b. Rotate the switch on the shifter assembly to align the service adjustment hole with the carrier tang hole. Insert a
3/32 in.
(2.38mm) diameter g auge pin to a depth of 9/16 in. (15mm) and
tighten attaching screws.
c. Remove the gauge pin.
6. Connect the electrical connector to the switch.
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Replacement kits include new bearing
cups and conventional snaprings to
replace the original nylon rings. These replacement rings must go inboard of the
yoke in contrast to outboard mounting of the Dana and Cleveland designs.
Previous service to the Saginaw U-joints can be recognized by the presence of
snaprings inboard of the yoke.
Bad U-joints, requiring replacement, will produce a clunking sound when the car
is put into gear. This is due to worn needle bearings or a scored trunnion end
possibly caused by improper lubricati on during assembly. Camaro U-joints
require no periodic maintenance and theref ore have no lubrication fittings.
DRIVESHAFT
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Raise the vehicle and safely su pport it on jackstands. Paint a reference
line from the rear end of the drives haft to the companion flange so that
they can be reassembled in the same position.
2. Disconnect the rear universal join t by removing the U-bolts, retaining
straps, or the flange bolts.
3. To prevent loss of the needle bear ings, tape the bearing caps to the
trunnion.
Fig. 1: Driveshaft
4. Remove the driveshaft from the tr ansmission by sliding it rearward.
Do not be alarmed by oil l eakage at the transmission output shaft. This oil is
there to lubricate the sp lines of the front yoke.
To install: 5. Check the yoke seal in the transmi ssion case extension and replace it if
necessary. See the transmission sect ion for replacement procedures.
6. Position the driveshaft and insert t he front yoke into the transmission so
the splines mesh with the transmission shaft splines.
7. Using reference marks made during re moval, align the driveshaft with the
companion flange and secure it with U-bolts or, retaining straps.
U-JOINT REPLACEMENT 1. Support the driveshaft horizontally in line with the base plate of a press.
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To prevent serious damage to the alte
rnator and the rest of the charging
system, the following precauti ons must be observed:
• Never reverse the battery connections.
• Booster batteries for starting must be connected properly: positive-to-
positive and negative-to-ground.
• Disconnect the battery cables before using a fast charger; the charger
has a tendency to force current through the diodes in the opposite
direction for which they were designed. This burns out the diodes.
• Never use a fast charger as a booster for starting the vehicle.
• Never disconnect the voltage regulator while the engine is running.
• Avoid long soldering times when replacing diodes or transistors.
Prolonged heat is damaging to AC alternators.
• Do not use test lamps of more t han 12 volts (V) for checking diode
continuity.
• Do not short across or ground any of the terminals on the AC alternator.
• The polarity of the battery, alter nator, and regulator must be matched
and considered before making any elec trical connections within the
system.
• Never operate the alternator on an open circuit. make sure that all
connections within the circ uit are clean and tight.
• Disconnect the battery terminals when performing any service on the
electrical system. This wil l eliminate the possibility of accidental reversal
of polarity.
• Disconnect the battery ground cable if arc welding is to be done on any
part of the car.
CHARGING SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING
There are many possible ways in whic h the charging system can malfunction.
Often the source of a problem is diffi cult to diagnose, requiring special
equipment and a good deal of experience. However, when the charging system
fails completely and causes the dash boar d warning light to come on or the
battery to become dead the following items may be checked:
1. The battery is known to be good and fully charged.
2. The alternator belt is in good condition and adjusted to the proper
tension.
3. All connections in t he system are clean and tight.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
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This procedure is to be performed with t
he alternator removed from the vehicle.
The new style CS alternators on 1987-92 vehicles are non-serviceable and
must be replaced as an assembly.
1. Make scribe marks on the end fram es to make reassembly easier.
2. Remove the 4 through-bolts and s eparate the drive end frame assembly
from the rectifier end frame assembly.
3. Remove the 3 diode trio attachi ng nuts and the 3 regulator attaching
screws.
4. Remove the diode trio and the regulator from the end frame.
To install: 5. Push the brushes into the brush hol der and install a brush retainer or a
tooth pick to hold the brushes in place.
6. Install the regulator into the alternator.
7. Install the diode trio.
8. Install the halves of the alternat or and secure the halves with the 4
through-bolts. After the alternator is assembled, remove the brush
retainer.
STARTER
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Fig. 1: View of the starter on a V8
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OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT
Replace the sending unit by disconnecting
the electrical connector and using a
special socket to remove it.
ENGINE
MECHANICAL ENGINE
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
In the process of removing the engine, you will come across a number of steps
which call for the removal of a separ ate component or system, such as
"disconnect the exhaust system " or "remove the radiator." In most instances, a
detailed removal procedure can be found elsewhere in this repair guide.
It is virtually impossible to list each individual wire and hose which must be
disconnected, simply because so many different model and engine
combinations have been manufactured. Careful observation and common
sense are the best possible approaches to any repair procedure.
Removal and installation of the engine ca n be made easier if you follow these
basic points:
• If you have to drain any of the fl uids, use a suitable container.
• Always tag any wires or hoses and, if possible, the components they
came from before disconnecting them.
• Because there are so many bolts and fasteners involved, store and label
the retainers from com ponents separately in muffin pans, jars or coffee
cans. This will prevent conf usion during installation.
• After unbolting the transmission or trans axle, always make sure it is
properly supported.
• If it is necessary to disconnect t he air conditioning system, have this
service performed by a qualified tec hnician using a recovery/recycling
station. If the system does not have to be disconnected, unbolt the
compressor and set it aside.
• When unbolting the engine mounts, a lways make sure the engine is
properly supported. When removing t he engine, make sure that any
lifting devices are properly attached to the engine. It is recommended
that if your engine is supplied with lifting hooks, your lifting apparatus be
attached to them.
• Lift the engine from its compartment sl owly, checking that no hoses,
wires or other component s are still connected.
• After the engine is clear of the compar tment, place it on an engine stand
or workbench.
• After the engine has been removed, y ou can perform a partial or full
teardown of the engine using the procedur es outlined in this repair guide.
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Fig. 12: Muffler hanger attachment
ENGINE RECONDITIONING DETE RMINING ENGINE CONDITION
Anything that generates heat and/or friction will eventually burn or wear out (i.e.
a light bulb generates heat, therefore its life span is limited). With this in mind, a
running engine generates trem endous amounts of both; friction is encountered
by the moving and rotating parts inside the engine and heat is created b\
y
friction and combustion of the fuel. Ho wever, the engine has systems designed
to help reduce the effects of heat and fr iction and provide added longevity. The
oiling system reduces the amount of fr iction encountered by the moving parts
inside the engine, while the cooling system reduces heat created by friction and
combustion. If either system is not main tained, a break-down will be inevitable.
Therefore, you can see how regular main tenance can affect the service life of
your vehicle. If you do not drain, flush and refill your cooling system at the
proper intervals, deposits will begin to accumulate in the radiator, thereby
reducing the amount of heat it can extrac t from the coolant. The same applies to
your oil and filter; if it is not changed often enoug h it becomes laden with
contaminates and is unable to properly lubricate the engine. This increases
friction and wear.
There are a number of methods for evaluat ing the condition of your engine. A
compression test can reveal the condition of your pistons, piston rings, cylinder
bores, head gasket(s), valves and valve seat s. An oil pressure test can warn
you of possible engine bearing, or oil pump failures. Excessive oil consumption,
evidence of oil in the engine air intake area and/or bluish smoke from the tail
pipe may indicate worn piston rings, worn valve guides and/or valve seals. As a
general rule, an engine that uses no more than one quart of oil every 1000
miles is in good condi tion. Engines that use one quart of oil or more in less than
1000 miles should first be checked for oil leaks. If any oil leaks are present,
have them fixed before dete rmining how much oil is consumed by the engine,
especially if blue smoke is not visible at the tail pipe.
COMPRESSION TEST
A noticeable lack of engine power, excessive oil consumption and/or poor fuel
mileage measured over an extended period are all indicators of internal engine
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ENGINE OVERHAUL TIPS
Most engine overhaul procedures are fair
ly standard. In addition to specific
parts replacement procedures and specifications for your individual engine, this
section is also a guide to acceptabl e rebuilding procedures. Examples of
standard rebuilding practice are given and should be used along with specific
details concerning your particular engine.
Competent and accurate machine sh op services will ensure maximum
performance, reliability and engin e life. In most instances it is more profitable for
the do-it-yourself mechanic to remove, clean and inspect the component, buy
the necessary parts and deliver these to a shop for actual machine work.
Much of the assembly work (crankshaft, bearings, piston rods, and other
components) is well within the scope of t he do-it-yourself mechanic's tools and
abilities. You will have to decide for your self the depth of involvement you desire
in an engine repair or rebuild.
TOOLS
The tools required for an engine overhaul or parts replacement will depend on
the depth of your involvement. With a few exceptions, they will be the tools
found in a mechanic's tool kit (see Gener al Information & Maintenance in this
repair guide). More in-depth work will requ ire some or all of the following:
• A dial indicator (reading in thousandths) mounted on a universal base
• Micrometers and telescope gauges
• Jaw and screw-type pullers
• Scraper
• Valve spring compressor
• Ring groove cleaner
• Piston ring expander and compressor
• Ridge reamer
• Cylinder hone or glaze breaker
• Plastigage®
• Engine stand
The use of most of these tools is illustra ted in this section. Many can be rented
for a one-time use from a local parts jobber or tool supply house specializing in
automotive work.
Occasionally, the use of special tools is called for. See the information on
Special Tools and the Safety Notice in General Information & Maintenance
before substituting another tool.
OVERHAUL TIPS
Aluminum has become extr emely popular for use in engines, due to its low
weight. Observe the follo wing precautions when handl ing aluminum parts:
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Fig. 13: Checks should also be made al ong both diagonals of the head surface
Place a straightedge across the gasket surf ace. Using feeler gauges, determine
the clearance at the cent er of the straightedge and across the cylinder head at
several points. Check along the centerli ne and diagonally on the head surface.
If the warpage exceeds 0.003 in. (0.076mm) within a 6.0 in. (15.2cm) span, or
0.006 in. (0.152mm) over the total length of the head, the cylinder head must be
resurfaced. After resurfacing the heads of a V-type engine, the intake manifold
flange surface should be checked, and if necessary, milled proportionally to
allow for the change in its mounting position.
CRACKS AND PHYSICAL DAMAGE
Generally, cracks are limited to the comb ustion chamber, however, it is not
uncommon for the head to crack in a s park plug hole, port, outside of the head
or in the valve spring/rocker arm area. The first area to inspect is always the
hottest: the exhaust seat/port area.
A visual inspection should be perform ed, but just because you don’t see a
crack does not mean it is not there. Some more reliable methods for inspecting
for cracks include Magnaflux, a magnetic process or Zyglo, a dye penetrant.
Magnaflux is used onl y on ferrous metal (cast iron) heads. Zyglo uses a spray
on fluorescent mixture along with a black light to reveal the cracks. It is strongly
recommended to have your cylinder head c hecked professionally for cracks,
especially if the engine was known to have overheated and/or leaked or
consumed coolant. Contact a local shop fo r availability and pricing of these
services.