radiator CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982 Repair Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 1982, Model line: CAMARO, Model: CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982Pages: 875, PDF Size: 88.64 MB
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11. Disconnect all electrical connecti
ons from the intake manifold and
cylinder head.
12. If the vehicle has air conditioning, remove the compressor and position it
out of the way. Do not disc onnect the refrigerant lines.
13. Remove the alternator and lay the unit aside. If necessary, remove the
alternator brackets.
14. Remove any other brackets or components mounted on the cylinder
head.
15. Remove the upper radiator hose.
16. Remove the rocker arm cover and back off the rocker arm nuts/bolts and
pivot the rocker arms out of the way so that the pushrods can be
removed. Identify the pushrods so that they can be reinstalled in their
original locations.
17. Remove the cylinder head bolts and cylinder head. Remove the intake
and exhaust manifolds, as required.
To install: 18. Thoroughly clean all mating surfaces of oil, grease and old gasket material. Clean the head bo lts and cylinder block threads, otherwise an
accurate torque specificat ion will not be attained.
19. Install a new gasket on the block mating surface. Position the cylinder
head on the block.
Clean the bolt threads, apply sealing comp ound and install the bolts finger-tight.
20. Tighten the head bolts a little at a time using the correct sequence and
torque to 92 ft lbs. (125 Nm).
21. Install the pushrods and rocker arms . Refer to the procedures described
earlier in this section.
22. Refill the cooling system and check for leaks. The remaining installation
is the reverse of the removal procedure.
2.8L AND 3.1L ENGINES
Fig. 2: Cylinder head bolt torque sequence for all V6 engines
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1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure
and drain the engine coolant from the
radiator into a suitable container.
3. Remove the intake manifold and the spark plugs.
4. Remove the dipstick tube and bra cket. Raise and support the vehicle
safely. Drain the oil and remove the oil filter. Lower the vehicle.
5. Remove the exhaust manifolds.
6. Remove the drive belt(s).
7. Remove the air conditioning compresso r and bracket, reposition it aside.
Do not disconnect the lines.
8. Remove the power steering pump and bracket, reposition it aside.
9. Remove the alternator and br acket, reposition it aside.
10. Remove the ground cable from the rear of the cylinder head and remove
the engine lift bracket.
11. Remove the rocker arm covers.
12. Loosen the rocker arms until the pushrods can be removed.
13. Remove the cylinder head bolts and remove the cylinder heads.
To install: 14. Clean the gasket mating surfaces of all components. Be careful not to
nick or scratch any surfaces as this will allow leak paths. Clean the bolt
threads in the cylinder bl ock and on the head bolts. Dirt will affect bolt
torque.
15. Place the head gaskets in pos ition over the dowel pins.
16. Install the cylinder heads.
17. Coat the cylinder head bolts th reads with GM sealer 1052080 or
equivalent, and install the bolts. Tight en the bolts in the proper sequence
to:
• 1982-1987 engines: 70 ft lbs. (90 Nm)
• 1988-1992 engines: 1st step: 40 ft lbs. (55 Nm); 2nd step: tighten
an additional 1/4 (90 degree) turn
18. Install the pushrods a nd loosely retain them wit h the rocker arms. Make
sure the lower ends of the pushrods ar e in the lifter seats. Refer to the
rocker arm procedures outlined ea rlier in this section.
19. Install the power steering pump br acket and pump. Do the same for the
air conditioning compressor bracket and compressor.
20. Install the ground cable to t he rear of the cylinder head.
21. Install the exhaust manifolds.
22. Install the dipstick tube and bracket.
23. Install the intake manifold.
24. Install the alternator bracket and alternator.
25. Install the drive belt(s).
26. Install the spark plugs.
27. Fill the cooling system with the proper type and quantity of coolant. Install
a new oil filter and fill the crankca se with the proper type and quantity of
oil.
28. Connect the negative battery cable, star t the vehicle and check for leaks.
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1. Disconnect the battery ground c
able. Drain the cooling system.
2. Remove the fan shroud or the upper radiator support and drive belts.
Remove the fan and pulley from the water pump.
3. Remove the alternator upper and lower brackets, air brace with brackets,
and power steering lower bra cket (move it aside).
4. Remove the radiator lower hose and the heater hose from the water
pump. Remove the water pump bolts and the water pump.
5. If A/C equipped, remove the comp ressor and move aside. Remove the
compressor mounting bracket.
6. Remove the damper pulley retain ing bolt and the damper pulley.
7. Remove the timing gear cover bolts and the timing gear cover.
With the timing gear cover removed, use a large screwdriver to pry the oil seal
from the cover. To install the new oil se al, lubricate it with engine oil and drive it
into place.
To install: 8. Prepare the mating surfaces for reinst allation of the timing gear cover.
Coat the new gasket with RTV sealer.
9. Install the timing gear cover and timing gear cover bolts. Torque the
cover bolts to specifications:
• V6 engines (M8 x 1.25 bolts): 13-22 ft. lbs. (18-30 Nm)
• V6 engines (M10 x 1.5 bolts): 20-35 ft. lbs. (27-48 Nm)
• V8 engines (all bolts): 69-130 inch lbs. (8-14 Nm)
10. Install the damper pulley by pulli ng the damper onto the crankshaft. Use
tool J-23523 or equivalent. Install t he damper pulley retaining bolt and
torque bolts to 67-85 ft lbs. (90-110 Nm).
11. If A/C equipped, install the compressor mounting bracket and
compressor.
12. Install the water pump and the water pump bolts.
13. Install the radiator lower hose and the heater hose to the water pump.
14. Install the alternator upper and lower brackets, air brace with brackets
and the power steering lower bracket.
15. Install the fan and pull ey to the water pump. Inst all the fan shroud or the
upper radiator support and drive belts and adjust.
16. Connect the battery ground cable.
17. Fill the cooling syst em, start the engine and check for leaks.
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Fig. 4: Timing gear alignment - 2.5L
The 4-cylinder engine uses a gear driven camshaft. To remove the timing gear,
refer to the camshaft removal section. The camshaft must be removed from the
engine so that the timing gear ma y be pressed from the shaft.
WARNING - The thrust plate must be posit ioned so that the woodruff key in the
shaft does not damage it when the shaft is pressed out of the gear. Properly
support the hub of the gear or the gear will be seriously damaged. The
crankshaft gear may be removed with a gear puller while in place in the block.
CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Remove the front cover and timing chain.
2. To remove the crankshaft sprocket, it may be necessary to remove the
radiator to gain su fficient clearance.
3. Using a puller, remove the crankshaft sprocket.
4. To install, pay attention to the position of the woodruff key. Slide the
sprocket onto the crankshaft.
5. To complete the installation, reverse the removal procedures.
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Fig. 9: A common oil pump drive location on V8 engines
4-CYLINDER ENGINES
There are two ways to go about this task: either remove the engine from the
car, or remove the radiator, grill and any other supports which are directly in
front of the engine. If the second altern ative is chosen, you may have to
disconnect the motor mounts, and raise t he front of the engine. This will give
you the necessary clearance to remove the camshaft from the engine.
1. Drain the engine oil an d the cooling system. Remove the radiator.
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To install:
7. Lubricate all parts. Slide the ca mshaft onto the camshaft bearings.
8. Install the fuel pump and fuel pump pushrod.
9. Install the distributor and align all matchmarks.
10. Install the oil pump drive.
11. Install the valve lifters, pushrods and rocker arms.
12. Install the intake manifold and valve covers.
13. Install the timing and timing chain cover.
14. Install the radiator.
15. Fill the cooling syst em, start the engine and check for leaks.
BEARING
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
It is recommended for a machine shop to perform these procedures.
To remove the camshaft bearings, the ca mshaft lifters, flywheel, rear camshaft
expansion plug, and cranks haft must be removed.
Camshaft bearings can be replaced wi th engine completely or partially
disassembled. To replace bearings without complete disassembly remove the
camshaft and crankshaft leaving cylinder heads attached and pistons in place.
Before removing crankshaft, tape threads of connecting rod bolts to prevent
damage to crankshaft. Fasten connecting rods against sides of engine so they
will not be in the way while replacing camshaft bearings.
If excessive wear is indicated, or if the engine is being completely rebuilt,
camshaft bearings should be replaced as follows: Drive the camshaft rear plug
from the block. Assemble the removal puller with its shoulder on the bearing to
be removed. Gradually tighten the puller nut until bearing is removed. Remove
remaining bearings, leaving the front and rear for last. To remove front and rear
bearings, reverse position of the tool, so as to pull the bearings in toward the
center of the block. Leave the tool in th is position, pilot the new front and rear
bearings on the installer, and pull them into position as follows:
• 4 cylinder engines: Ensure oil holes are properly aligned.
• V6 engines: Ensure the rear and intermediate bearing oil holes are
aligned between the 2 and 3 o'clock po sitions and the front bearing oil
holes are at 1:00 and between 2 and 3 o'clock positions.
• V8 engines: Ensure the No. 1 (f ront) camshaft bearing holes are an
equal distance from the 6 o'clock pos ition. The No. 2 through 4 inner
bearing holes must be posit ioned at the 5 o'clock position towards the left
side (drivers) of the engine, even wit h the bottom of the cylinder bore.
The No. 5 bearing oil holes must be positioned at 12 o'clock.
Return the tool to its original position and pull remaining bearings into position.
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Fig. 12: Muffler hanger attachment
ENGINE RECONDITIONING DETE RMINING ENGINE CONDITION
Anything that generates heat and/or friction will eventually burn or wear out (i.e.
a light bulb generates heat, therefore its life span is limited). With this in mind, a
running engine generates trem endous amounts of both; friction is encountered
by the moving and rotating parts inside the engine and heat is created b\
y
friction and combustion of the fuel. Ho wever, the engine has systems designed
to help reduce the effects of heat and fr iction and provide added longevity. The
oiling system reduces the amount of fr iction encountered by the moving parts
inside the engine, while the cooling system reduces heat created by friction and
combustion. If either system is not main tained, a break-down will be inevitable.
Therefore, you can see how regular main tenance can affect the service life of
your vehicle. If you do not drain, flush and refill your cooling system at the
proper intervals, deposits will begin to accumulate in the radiator, thereby
reducing the amount of heat it can extrac t from the coolant. The same applies to
your oil and filter; if it is not changed often enoug h it becomes laden with
contaminates and is unable to properly lubricate the engine. This increases
friction and wear.
There are a number of methods for evaluat ing the condition of your engine. A
compression test can reveal the condition of your pistons, piston rings, cylinder
bores, head gasket(s), valves and valve seat s. An oil pressure test can warn
you of possible engine bearing, or oil pump failures. Excessive oil consumption,
evidence of oil in the engine air intake area and/or bluish smoke from the tail
pipe may indicate worn piston rings, worn valve guides and/or valve seals. As a
general rule, an engine that uses no more than one quart of oil every 1000
miles is in good condi tion. Engines that use one quart of oil or more in less than
1000 miles should first be checked for oil leaks. If any oil leaks are present,
have them fixed before dete rmining how much oil is consumed by the engine,
especially if blue smoke is not visible at the tail pipe.
COMPRESSION TEST
A noticeable lack of engine power, excessive oil consumption and/or poor fuel
mileage measured over an extended period are all indicators of internal engine
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8. According to the tool manufacture
r's instructions, connect a remote
starting switch to the starting circuit.
9. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, use the remote starting
switch to crank the engine through at least five compression strokes
(approximately 5 seconds of cranking) and record the highest reading on
the gauge.
10. Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the
same number of compression stroke s and/or time as the first.
11. Compare the highest readi ngs from each cylinder to that of the others.
The indicated compression pre ssures are considered within
specifications if the lo west reading cylinder is within 75 percent of the
pressure recorded for the highest readi ng cylinder. For example, if your
highest reading cylinder pressure was 150 psi (1034 kPa), then 75
percent of that would be 113 psi (779 kPa). So the lowest reading
cylinder should be no less than 113 psi (779 kPa).
12. If a cylinder exhibits an unusually low compression reading, pour a
tablespoon of clean engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug
hole and repeat the compression tes t. If the compression rises after
adding oil, it means that the cylinder's piston rings and/or cylinder bore
are damaged or worn. If the pressure re mains low, the valves may not be
seating properly (a valve job is needed), or the head gasket may be
blown near that cylinder. If compressi on in any two adjacent cylinders is
low, and if the addition of oil doesn' t help raise compression, there is
leakage past the head gasket. Oil and coolant in the combustion
chamber, combined with blue or const ant white smoke from the tail pipe,
are symptoms of this pr oblem. However, don't be alarmed by the normal
white smoke emitted from the tail pipe during engine warm-up or from
cold weather driving. There may be evidence of water droplets on the
engine dipstick and/or oil droplets in the cooling system if a head gasket
is blown.
OIL PRESSURE TEST
Check for proper oil pressu re at the sending unit passage with an externally
mounted mechanical oil pressure gauge (a s opposed to relying on a factory
installed dash-mounted gauge). A tachom eter may also be needed, as some
specifications may require running the engine at a specific rpm.
1. With the engine cold, locate and remo ve the oil pressure sending unit.
2. Following the manufacturer's inst ructions, connect a mechanical oil
pressure gauge and, if necessary, a tachometer to the engine.
3. Start the engine and allow it to idle.
4. Check the oil pressure reading when cold and record the number. You
may need to run the engine at a specified rpm, so check the
specifications chart located earlier in this section.
5. Run the engine until normal operati ng temperature is reached (upper
radiator hose will feel warm).
6. Check the oil pressure reading agai n with the engine hot and record the
number. Turn the engine OFF.
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1. Connect the vehicle battery.
2. Start the engine. Keep y
our eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does
not indicate oil pressure within 10 se conds of starting, turn the vehicle
off.
WARNING - Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil
pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check for any
leaks and if found, repair the leaks be fore continuing. If there is still no
indication of oil pressure, y ou may need to prime the system.
3. Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).
4. Allow the engine to reach nor mal operating temperature (the upper
radiator hose will be hot to the touch).
5. If necessary, set the ignition timing.
6. Install any remaining components such as the air cleaner (if removed for
ignition timing) or body panels which were removed.
BREAKING IT IN
Make the first miles on the new engine , easy ones. Vary the speed but do not
accelerate hard. Most importantly, do not lug the engine, and avoid sustained
high speeds until at least 100 miles. Ch eck the engine oil and coolant levels
frequently. Expect the engine to use a littl e oil until the rings seat. Change the
oil and filter at 500 miles, 1500 mile s, then every 3000 miles past that.
KEEP IT MAINTAINED
Now that you have just gone through all of that hard work, keep yourself from
doing it all over again by thoroughly maintaining it. Not that you may not have
maintained it before, heck you c ould have had one to two hundred thousand
miles on it before doing this. However, you may have bought the vehicle used,
and the previous owner did not keep up on maintenance. Which is why you just
went through all of that hard work. See?
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b. Install plug, with hollow end do
wn, over the rich mixture stop
screw access hole and drive plug into place so that the top of the
plug is
3/16 in. (4.7mm) below the surface of the air horn casting.
Plug must be installed to retain screw setting.
12. To check the M/C solenoid dwell, first disconnect vacuum line to the
canister purge valve and plug it. Ground diagnostic TEST terminal and
run engine until it is at normal operat ion temperature (upper radiator
hose hot) and in closed loop.
13. Check M/C dwell at 3000 rpm. If within 10-50 degrees, calibration is
complete. If higher than 50 degrees, chec k the carburetor for a cause of
rich condition. If below 10 degrees, look for a cause of lean engine
condition such as vacuum leaks. If none are found, check for the cause
of a lean carburetor.
Fig. 22: Installing the mixture control solenoid gauging tool