length CHEVROLET DYNASTY 1993 Owner's Manual

(2) With engine running, move test probe along
entire length of all cables (approximately 0 to 1/8
inch gap). If punctures or cracks are present there
will be a noticeable spark jump from the faulty area
to the probe. Cracked, leaking or faulty cables should
be replaced. Use the following procedure when removing the
high tension cable from the spark plug. First, remove
the cable from the retaining bracket. Then grasp the
terminal as close as possible to the spark plug. Ro-
tate the cover (boot) slightly and pull straight back.
Do not use pliers and do not pull the cable at an
angle. Doing so will damage the insulation, cable
terminal or the spark plug insulator. Wipe spark
plug insulator clean before reinstalling cable
and cover. Resistance cables are identified by the words Elec-
tronic Suppression .
Use an ohmmeter to check cables for opens, loose
terminals or high resistance. (a) Remove cable from spark plug.
(b) Remove cable from the coil tower.
(c) Connect the ohmmeter between spark plug
end terminal and the coil end terminal. Resistance
should be within tolerance shown in the cable re-
sistance chart. If resistance is not within tolerance,
replace cable assembly. Test all spark plug cables
in same manner.
SPARK PLUG SERVICE
When replacing the spark plug cables, route the ca-
bles correctly and secure them in the appropriate re-
tainers. Incorrectly routed cables can cause the radio
to reproduce ignition noise. It can also cause cross ig-
nition of the spark plugs or short circuit the cables to
ground.
SPARK PLUG REMOVAL
Always remove cables by grasping at boot, rotating
the boot 1/2 turn, and pulling straight back in a
steady motion. (1) Prior to removing the spark plug spray com-
pressed air around the spark plug hole and the area
around the spark plug. (2) Remove the spark plug using a quality socket
with a rubber or foam insert. (3) Inspect the spark plug condition. Refer to
Spark Plug Condition in this section.
SPARK PLUG GAP ADJUSTMENT
Check the spark plug gap with a gap gauge. If the
gap is not correct, adjust it by bending the ground
electrode (Fig. 6).
SPARK PLUG INSTALLATION
(1) To avoid cross threading, start the spark plug
into the cylinder head by hand. (2) Tighten spark plugs to 28 N Im (20 ft. lbs.)
torque. (3) Install spark plug cables over spark plugs.
IDLE RPM TEST
WARNING: BE SURE TO APPLY PARKING BRAKE
AND/OR BLOCK WHEELS BEFORE PERFORMING
ANY ENGINE RUNNING TESTS.
Engine idle set rpmshould be tested and recorded
as it is when the vehicle is first brought into shop
for testing. This will assist in diagnosing complaints
of engine stalling, creeping and hard shifting on ve-
hicles equipped with automatic transaxle. Refer to the
Throttle Body Minimum Airflow procedures in Group
14.
IGNITION TIMING PROCEDURE
Ignition timing cannot be changed or set on Turbo
III, 3.3L or 3.8L engines. For diagnostic information,
refer to the DRBII scan tool and the appropriate
Powertrain Diagnostics Procedures manual.
CABLE RESISTANCE CHART
Fig. 6 Setting Spark Plug GapÐTypical
Ä IGNITION SYSTEMS 8D - 41

AUTOMATIC TEMPERATURE CONTROL LAMP REMOVAL
(1) Remove automatic temperature control from in-
strument panel. (2) Remove top cover screw and unsnap cover from
control (Fig. 30).
(3) Remove four screws that connect computer
housing to the button housing. (4) Unsnap the button housing from the computer
housing. (5) Remove lamps by turning in a counter clock-
wise direction and install lamps by turning in a
clockwise direction. (6) For installation reverse above procedures.
When finish perform ATC system function test.
GLOVE BOX LAMP AND SWITCH REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable and isolate
or remove fuse #26 prior to removing switch or wires
may short to ground. (2) Open glove box door. (3) Remove lamp and test. If bad replace lamp. If
OK proceed to step 3. (4) Carefully pry switch from its mounting surface
with tip of a small pry bar. (5) Remove switch from glove box and disconnect
electrical leads and test for battery voltage and
ground. (6) If OK test switch for continuity. If bad replace
switch. (7) For installation reverse above procedures.
ENGINE COMPARTMENT NODE
The Engine Compartment Node is a microcomputer
controlled unit which informs the EVIC overhead
console via the CCD bus of outside temperature, com-
pass direction and the following warning messages:
² Brake Fluid
² Low Coolant Level
² Low Engine Oil Level
The Engine Compartment Node is located behind
the front bumper reinforcement. For complete diagnostic procedures for the Engine
Compartment Node, refer to the AG and AJ Body Di-
agnostic Procedures Manual.
TRAVELER/EVIC REMOVAL
To test Traveler/EVIC, refer to AG, AJ Body Diag-
nostic Procedure. (1) Remove cluster stack bezel.
(2) Remove three screws and disconnect wiring
connector. (3) For installation reverse above procedures.
BEZEL WITH/WITHOUT MESSAGE CENTERREMOVAL
(1) Use a straight edge tool to pry out one end of
the message center and continue to disengage six
clips along the length of the message center. (2) Remove the message center and disconnect the
wiring. (3) For installation reverse the above procedures.
CONSOLE SWITCH PLATE/CUBBY BOXREMOVAL
(1) Pry up edge of switch plate or cubby box.
(2) Disconnect wiring terminal to switch plate if so
equipped. (3) For installation reverse above procedures.
CIGAR LIGHTER REMOVAL
(1) Remove center bezel.
(2) Remove two center console attaching screws.
(3) Remove ash receptacle/cup holder.
(4) Remove two screws underneath ash receptacle/
cup holder. (5) Remove ash receiver/bezel.
(6) Disconnect wiring connectors from lighter re-
ceptacle.
Fig. 29 Automatic Temperature Control
Fig. 30 Automatic Temperature Control Lamp
Ä INSTRUMENT PANEL AND GAUGES 8E - 55

INSTALLATION
(1) Install antenna body and cable from under-
neath fender (Fig. 12). (2) Install gasket, adapter, and cap nut. Tighten
cap nut to 14 N Im (125 in. lbs.) with Antenna Nut
Wrench C-4816. (3) Install antenna mast into antenna body until
sleeve bottoms on antenna body (Fig. 11). (4) Route cable to radio if necessary.
BENCH TEST FOR ANTENNA MALFUNCTION
It is also possible to check short or open circuits
with an ohmmeter or continuity light once the an-
tenna has been removed from the vehicle. (1) Continuity should be present between the tip of
the mast and radio end pin (Fig. 13 and 14).
(2) No continuity should be observed or a very high
resistance of several megohms between the ground
shell of the connector and radio end pin.
(3) Continuity should be observed between the ground
shell of the connector and the mounting hardware.
Wiggle cable over its entire length to reveal inter-
mittent short or open circuits during step 1, 2 and 3.
POWER ANTENNA
OPERATION
The power operated radio antenna (Fig. 15) is a
telescoping type antenna, extended and retracted by a
reversible electric motor. The Automatic Power Antenna is controlled by a
combination of an external relay and limit switches
built into the antenna motor housing. The antenna is
actuated when radio is switched ON and the ignition
switch in ON or ACCESSORY position. The antenna
mast should extend. When the ignition switch or radio
is turned OFF the antenna mast should fully retract
and declutch.
Many antenna problems may be avoided by frequent
cleaning of the antenna mast telescoping sections. Clean
the antenna mast sections with a clean soft cloth.
Before an antenna is removed, the antenna perfor-
mance should be tested to decide if it is a reception
problem or an operational problem. Whenever an operational malfunction occurs, first
verify that the radio antenna wire harness is properly
connected. Check all connectors before starting normal
diagnosis and repair procedures. Refer to Power An-
tenna Electrical Diagnosis Chart (Fig. 16).
Fig. 12 Antenna Mounting
Fig. 11 Removing or Tightening Antenna Cap Nut
Fig. 13 Antenna Bench Test Points
Fig. 14 Antenna Bench Test PointsÐTwo Part
Ä AUDIO SYSTEM 8F - 21

When a fusible link blows it is important to find
out what the problem is. They are placed in the sys-
tem for protection against shorts. Which can be
caused by a component failure or wiring failures. Do
not just replace the fusible link to correct the
problem. When diagnosing a faulty fusible link it is impor-
tant to check the wire carefully. In some instances
the link may be blown and it will not show through
the insulation, the wire should be checked over its
entire length for internal breaks. (1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Cut out the blown portion of the fusible link.
(3) Strip 1 inch of insulation from each end of the
existing fusible link. (4) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the fusible link. Make sure the tubing will be
long enough to cover and seal the entire repair area. (5) Cut a replacement piece of fusible link approx-
imately two inches longer than the piece removed. (6) Remove one inch of insulation from each end of
the replacement fusible link. (7) Spread the strands of wire apart on each of the
exposed wires (Fig. 11 example 1). (8) Push the two ends of the wire together until
the strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig.
11 example 2). (9) Twist the wires together (Fig. 11 example 3).
(10) Solder the wires together using rosin core type
solder only. Do not use acid core type solder.
(11) Center the heat shrink tubing over the joint
and heat using a heat gun. Heat the joint until the
tubing is tightly sealed and sealant comes out of both
ends of the tubing. (12) Secure the fusible link to the existing ones to
prevent chafing or damage to the insulation. (13) Connect battery and test all affected systems.
WIRING REPAIR
When replacing or repairing a wire, it is important
that the correct gauge be used as shown in the wir-
ing diagrams. The wires must also be held securely
in place to prevent damage to the insulation. (1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Remove 1 inch of insulation from each end the
wire. (3) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the wire. Make sure the tubing will be long
enough to cover and seal the entire repair area. (4) Spread the strands of the wire apart on each
part of the exposed wires (Fig. 11 example 1). (5) Push the two ends of wire together until the
strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig. 11 ex-
ample 2). (6) Twist the wires together (Fig. 11 example 3).
(7) Solder the connection together using rosin core
type solder only. Do not use acid core solder. (8) Center the heat shrink tubing over the joint
and heat using a heat gun. Heat the joint until the
tubing is tightly sealed and sealant comes out of both
ends of the tubing. (9) Secure the wire to the existing ones to prevent
chafing or damage to the insulation. (10) Connect battery and test all affected systems.
CONNECTOR REPLACEMENT
(1) Disconnect battery.
(2) Disconnect the connector that is to be repaired
from its mating half. (3) Remove connector locking wedge (Fig. 12).
(4) Position the connector locking finger away from
the terminal. Pull on the wire to remove the termi-
nal from the connector (Fig. 13).
Fig. 11 Wire Repair
Fig. 12 Connector Locking Wedge Tab
Ä GENERAL INFORMATION 8W - 5

(5) Reset the terminal locking tang, if it has one.
(6) Insert the removed wire in the same cavity on
the repair connector. (7) Repeat steps four thru six for each wire in the
connector. Check that all wires are inserted into the
proper cavities. For connector pin out identification
refer to the wiring diagrams. (8) Insert the connector locking wedge into the re-
paired connector. (9) Connect connector to its mating half.
(10) Connect battery and test all affected systems.
CONNECTOR AND TERMINAL ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
(1) Disconnect Battery.
(2) Disconnect the connector being repaired form
its mating half. (3) Cut off the existing wire connector directly be-
hind the insulator. Remove six inches of tape from
the harness. (4) Stagger cut all wires on the harness side about
1/2 inch apart (Fig. 14). (5) Remove 1 inch of insulation from each wire on
the harness side. (6) Stagger cut the matching wires on the repair
connector assembly in the opposite order as was done
on the harness side of the repair. Allow extra length
for soldered connections. Check that the overall
length is the same as the original (Fig. 14). (7) Remove 1 inch of insulation from each wire.
(8) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the wire. Make sure the tubing will be long
enough to cover and seal the entire repair area. (9) Spread the strands of the wire apart on each
part of the exposed wires (Fig. 11 example 1). (10) Push the two ends of wire together until the
strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig. 11 ex-
ample 2). (11) Twist the wires together (Fig. 11 example 3). (12) Solder the connection together using rosin
core type solder only. Do not use acid core solder.
(13) Center the heat shrink tubing over the joint
and heat using a heat gun. Heat the joint until the
tubing is tightly sealed and sealant comes out of both
ends of the tubing. (14) Repeat steps 8 thru 13 for each wire.
(15) Re-tape the wire harness starting 1-1/2 inches
behind the connector and 2 inches past the repair. (16) Reconnect the repaired connector.
(17) Connect battery and test all affected systems.
TERMINAL REPLACEMENT
(1) Disconnect battery.
(2) Disconnect the connector being repaired form
its mating half. (3) Remove connector locking wedge (Fig. 12).
(4) Position the connector locking finger away from
the terminal. Pull on the wire to remove the termi-
nal from the connector (Fig. 13). (5) Cut the wire 6 inches from the back of the con-
nector. (6) Remove 1 inch of insulation from the wire on
the harness side. (7) Select a wire from the terminal repair assem-
bly that best matches the color wire being repaired. (8) Cut the repair wire to the proper length and re-
move 1 inch of insulation. (9) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the wire. Make sure the tubing will be long
enough to cover and seal the entire repair area. (10) Spread the strands of the wire apart on each
part of the exposed wires (Fig. 11 example 1). (11) Push the two ends of wire together until the
strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig. 11 ex-
ample 2). (12) Twist the wires together (Fig. 11 example 3).
(13) Solder the connection together using rosin
core type solder only. Do not use acid core solder.
Fig. 13 Connector Locking Finger and Locking
Wedge
Fig. 14 Stagger Cutting Wires
8W - 6 GENERAL INFORMATION Ä

Flexible fuel vehicles can operate on a mixture of
up to 85 percent methanol, 15 percent unleaded gas-
oline. These vehicles also operate on mixtures con-
taining a lower percentage of methanol or just pure
unleaded gasoline. Engine components which are required for safe op-
eration using fuel containing methanol alcohol are
identified by a standard green color and/or display
the statement methanol compatible imprinted on the
component. To ensure continued safe operation, these
components must be serviced only with genuine MO-
PAR replacement parts. Methanol compatible parts for the 2.5L FFV (Flex-
ible Fuel Vehicle) engine include, but are not limited
to; the valve stem oil seals, all piston rings, the oil
fill cap, the fuel injectors, fuel rail, fuel pressure reg-
ulator, hoses and the vacuum control harness hose. BLOCK: All four cylinder cast iron blocks have
cast-in recesses in the bottom of each cylinder bore to
provide connecting rod clearance; especially needed
for 2.5L engines. The bores are also siamese to min-
imize engine length. A coolant passage is drilled
cross-ways through the siamese section to enhance
between the bore cooling on some engine types. A
partial open deck is used for cooling and weight re-
duction with oil filter, water pump, and distributor
mounting bosses molded into the front (radiator side)
of the block. Nominal wall thickness is 4.5 mm. Five
main bearing bulkheads and a block skirt extending
3 mm below the crankshaft center line add to the
blocks high rigidity with light weight. CRANKSHAFT: A nodular cast iron crankshaft is
used in TBI engines. A forged steel crankshaft is
used in the Turbo III engine. All engines have 5 main bearings, with number 3 flanged to control
thrust. The 60 mm diameter main and 50 mm diam-
eter crank pin journals (all) have undercut radiuses
fillets that are deep rolled for added strength. To op-
timize bearing loading 4 counterweights are used.
Hydrodynamic seals (installed in diecast aluminum
retainers) provide end sealing, where the crankshaft
exits the block. Anaerobic gasket material is used for
retainer-to-block sealing. No vibration damper is
used. A sintered iron (TBI engine and steel billet
Turbo III engines) timing belt sprocket is mounted
on the crankshaft nose. This sprocket provides mo-
tive power; via timing belt to the camshaft and inter-
mediate shaft sprockets (also sintered iron (TBI
engine and steel billet Turbo III engines) providing
timed valve, distributor, and oil pump actuation. PISTONS: Some Chrysler pistons have cast-in
steel struts at the pin bosses for autothermic control.
All 2.2L and 2.5L piston tops have cuts to provide
valve clearance. Some pistons are dished to provide
various compression ratios. Standard 2.2L and 2.5L
engines are designed for 9.5:1 and 8.9:1 compression
ratios respectively. The 2.5L piston is dished and is a
lightweight design to enhance engine smoothness.
The 2.2L turbo III uses dished pistons providing a
8.3:1 compression ratio. All standard 2.2/2.5L and
2.5L FFV engines use pressed-in piston pins to at-
tach forged steel connecting rods, 2.2L turbo III en-
gine uses a full floating piston pin and connecting
rod assembly. PISTONS RINGS: The 2.2/2.5L engines share
common piston rings throughout, including molybde-
num filled top ring for reliable compression sealing
and a tapered faced intermediate ring for additional
cylinder pressure control. The 2.5L FFV engine fea-
ture all chrome rings for enhanced long term dura-
bility under multi-fueled conditions. CYLINDER HEAD: The cylinder head is cast alu-
minum with in-line valves. The 2.2/2.5L and 2.5L
FFV valves are arranged with alternating exhaust
and intake. The intake and exhaust ports are located
in the rearward, facing side of the head. The Turbo
III valves are arranged in two inline banks, with the
ports of the bank of two intake valves per cylinder
facing toward the radiator side of engine and ports of
the bank of two exhaust valve per cylinder facing to-
ward the dash panel. The intake ports feed fast-burn
design combustion chambers (2.2/2.5L and 2.5L FFV
only) with the spark plug located close to the center
line of the combustion chamber for optimum effi-
ciency. An integral oil gallery within the cylinder
head supplies oil to the hydraulic lash adjusters,
camshaft, and valve mechanisms. CAMSHAFT: The nodular iron camshaft has five
bearing journals (2.2/2.5L and 2.5L FFV). The Turbo
III employs dual camshafts that have nine bearing
journals. Flanges at the rear journal control cam-
Fig. 1 Engine Identification
Ä 2.2/2.5L ENGINE 9 - 9

shaft end play. A sintered iron (TBI engine and steel
billet Turbo III engines) timing belt sprocket is
mounted on the cam nose, and a hydrodynamic oil
seal is used for oil control at the front of the cam-
shaft. ACCESSORY SHAFT: The iron accessory shaft
has two bearing journals and is housed in the for-
ward facing side of the block. A hydrodynamic seal,
installed in an aluminum housing attached to the
block, provides retention, shaft thrust, and oil con-
trol. The accessory shaft is driven by the timing belt
through a sintered iron (TBI engine and steel billet
Turbo III engines) sprocket mounted on the nose of
the accessory shaft. The accessory shaft in turn
drives the oil pump and distributor on 2.2/2.5L and
2.5L FFV and the oil pump only on Turbo III. VALVES: The valves are actuated by roller cam
followers which pivot on stationary hydraulic lash
adjusters. The valve train with 40.6 mm (1.60 inch)
diameter intake valves and 35.4 mm (1.39 inch) di-
ameter exhaust valves employ viton rubber valve
stem seals except 2.5L FFv . the 2.5L FFV valve
stem seals are made of special rubber compound
which resist the deteriorating effects of methanol
fuel by-products that enter the oil during combus-
tion. Valve springs, spring retainers, and locks are
conventional. For Turbo III engines the valves are
actuated by roller tipped rocker arms with hydraulic
lash adjusters which pivot on a shaft. The valve train
with 33.88 mm (1.33 in.) diameter intake valves are
arranged in line opposite of the 29.26 mm (1.15 in.)
diameter exhaust valves employ locking valve stem
seals. Valve springs, spring retainers, and locks are
not interchangeable with other engines. BALANCE SHAFTS: 2.2 Turbo III and 2.5L en-
gines are equipped with two counter rotating balance
shafts installed in a carrier attached to the lower
crankcase. The shafts are interconnect through
gears. These gears are driven by a short chain from
the crankshaft, to rotate at two times crankshaft
speed. This counterbalances certain engine recipro-
cating forces. INTAKE MANIFOLDS:
All intake manifolds are
aluminum castings, attached to the cylinder head
with eight bolts. N.A. engines use a four branch de-
sign. This long branch fan design enhances low and
midspeed torque. It also features an integrally cast
water crossover passage to warm incoming fuel/air
mixture, plus an EGR mounting boss and PCV inlet. The Turbo III engine intake manifold is a log type
with tuned runners. The manifold is machined to ac-
cept fuel injectors near the ports of each cylinder. EXHAUST MANIFOLDS: The exhaust manifolds
are made of nodular cast iron for strength and high
temperatures. All naturally aspirated (N.A.) and tur-
bocharged engines exit exhaust gasses through a ma-
chined, articulated joint connection to the exhaust
pipe. 2.2/2.5L and 2.5L FFV manifolds intermesh
with the intake manifold at the cylinder head. N.A. engines use a four branch design with cylin-
ders one and four joined and cylinder two and three
joined to exit at the outlet. The Turbo III engine exhaust manifold also carries
the turbocharger. This manifold has a modified log
type collector with exhaust gasses directed to and
through the turbocharger to exit the conical (articu-
lated joint) outlet machined into the turbocharger ex-
haust elbow. ENGINE LUBRICATION: Refer to Group 0 Lu-
brication and Maintenance for recommended oil to be
used in various engine application. System is full
flow filtration, pressure feed type. The oil pump is
mounted within the crankcase and driven by the ac-
cessory shaft. Pressurized oil is then routed through
the main oil gallery, running the length of the cylin-
der block, supplying main and rod bearings with fur-
ther routing (for 2.2L turbo III and 2.5L engines) to
the lower balance shaft assemblies. Pistons are lubri-
cated from directed holes in the connecting rod as-
semblies. Camshaft and valve mechanisms are
lubricated from a full-length cylinder head oil gallery
supplied from the crankcase main oil gallery.
9 - 10 2.2/2.5L ENGINE Ä

ENGINE MOUNTS
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION RIGHT SIDE MOUNT
(1) Remove the right engine mount insulator ver-
tical fasteners from frame rail. (2) Remove the load on the engine motor mounts
by carefully supporting the engine and transmission
assembly with a floor jack. (3) Remove the thru bolt from the insulator assem-
bly. Remove insulator. (4) Reverse removal procedure for installation. Re-
fer to (Fig. 3) for bolt tightening specifications. (5) Engine mount adjustment, Refer to Engine
Mount Insulator Adjustment of this section.
FRONT MOUNT
(1) Support the engine and transmission assembly
with a floor jack so it will not rotate. (2) Remove the thru bolt from the insulator and
front crossmember mounting bracket. (3) Remove the front engine mount bracket to
front crossmember screws and nuts. Remove the in-
sulator assembly. (4) Reverse removal procedure for installation. Re-
fer to (Fig. 3) for bolt tightening specifications. (5) Engine mount adjustment, Refer to Engine
Mount Insulator Adjustment of this section.
LEFT SIDE MOUNT
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist and remove left front
wheel. (2) Remove inter splash shield.
(3) Support the transmission with a transmission
jack. (4) Remove the insulator thru bolt from the mount.
(5) Remove the transmission mount fasteners and
remove mount. (6) Reverse removal procedure for installation. En-
sure that the slide tube is seated into the rail
bracket guides. Refer to (Fig. 3) for bolt tightening
specifications. (7) Engine mount adjustment, Refer to Engine
Mount Insulator Adjustment of this section.
ENGINE MOUNT RUBBER INSULATORS
Insulator location on frame rail (right side) and
transmission bracket (left side) are adjustable to al-
low right/left drive train adjustment in relation to
drive shaft assembly length. Check and reposition right engine mount insulator
(left engine mount insulator is floating type and will
adjust automatically (Fig. 4). Adjust drive train posi-
tion, if required, for the following conditions:
Fig. 3 Engine Mounting
9 - 12 2.2/2.5L ENGINE Ä

² Drive shaft distress: See Driveshafts in Suspension,
Group 2.
² Any front end structural damage (after repair).
² Insulator replacement.
ENGINE MOUNT INSULATOR ADJUSTMENT
(1) Remove the load on the engine motor mounts by
carefully supporting the engine and transmission as-
sembly with a floor jack. (2) Loosen the right engine mount insulator vertical
fasteners, and the front engine mount bracket to front
crossmember screws and nuts. Left engine mount insulator is sleeved over
shaft and long support bolt to provide lateral
movement adjustment with engine weight re-
moved or not. (3) Pry the engine right or left as required to achieve
the proper drive shaft assembly length. See Drive
Shaft in Suspension Group 2 for driveshaft identifica-
tion and related assembly length measuring. (4) Tighten right engine mount insulator vertical
bolts to 68 N Im (50 ft. lbs.). Then tighten front engine
mount screws and nuts to 54 N Im (40 ft. lbs.) and
center left engine mount insulator. (5) Recheck drive shaft length.
ENGINE ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery.
(2) Scribe hood hinge outline on hood and remove
hood. (3) Drain cooling system.
(4) Remove hoses from radiator and engine.
(5) Remove radiator and fan assembly.
(6) Remove air cleaner and hoses.
(7) Remove air conditioning compressor mounting
bolts and set compressor aside, if equipped. (8) Remove power steering pump mounting bolts
and set pump aside (9) Remove oil filter.
(10) Disconnect fuel line, heater hose and acceler-
ator cable. (11) Disconnect all electrical connections and har-
nesses at throttle body and engine. (12) Manual Transmission
(a) Disconnect clutch cable.
(b) Remove transmission case lower cover.
(c) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
(d) Disconnect starter and lay aside.
(e) Install transmission holding fixture.
(13) Automatic Transmission
(a) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
(b) Disconnect starter and lay aside.
(c) Remove transmission case lower cover.
(d) Mark flex plate to torque converter.
(e) Remove screws holding torque converter to
flex plate.
(14) Attach C clamp on front bottom of torque con-
verter housing to prevent torque converter from com-
ing out. (15) Install transmission holding fixture.
(16) Remove right inner splash shield (Fig. 5).
(17) Remove ground strap.
(18) To lowerengine separate right engine
bracket from yoke bracket To raiseengine remove
long bolt through yoke and insulator. IF INSULA-
TOR TO RAIL SCREWS ARE TO BE REMOVED,
MARK INSULATOR POSITION ON SIDE RAIL TO
INSURE EXACT INSTALLATION (Fig. 4). (19) Remove transmission case to cylinder block
mounting screws.Fig. 5 Right Inner Splash Shield
Fig. 4 Left Insulator Movement
Ä 2.2/2.5L ENGINE 9 - 13

springs using Tool C-3422-B. (2) Remove valve retaining locks, valve spring re-
tainers, valve stem seals and valve springs. (3) Before removing valves, remove any burrs
from valve stem lock grooves to prevent damage
to the valve guides. Identify valves to insure instal-
lation in original location.
VALVE INSPECTION (1) Clean valves thoroughly and discard burned,
warped and cracked valves. (2) Measure valve stems for wear.
(3) If valve stems are worn more than 0.05 mm (.002
inch.) replace valve.
VALVE GUIDES
(1) Remove carbon and varnish deposits from inside
of valve guides with a reliable guide cleaner. (2) Checking Valve Guide Wear:
² Insert valve with valve head positioned 10 mm (.400
inch) above cylinder head gasket surface.
²
Move valve to and from the indicator (Fig. 17). The
total dial indicator reading should not exceed the amount
specified in (Fig. 18). Readings should be taken for length-
wise and crosswise (with respect to cylinder head) move-
ment for each valve. Ream the guides for valves with
oversize stems if dial indicator reading is excessive or if
the stems are scuffed or scored.
(3) Service valves with oversize stems and oversize
seals are available in 0.15mm, (.005 inch) 0.40mm,
(.015 inch) and 0.80mm(.031 inch) oversize. Oversize seals must be used with oversize
valves. Reamers sizes to accommodate the oversize valve
stem are shown in (Fig. 18)
(4) Slowly turn reamer by hand and clean guide thor-
oughly before installing new valve. Do not attempt to
ream the valve guides from standard directly to
0.80mm (.030 inch). Use step procedure of 0.15mm
(.005 inch), 0.40mm (.015 inch) and 0.80mm (.030 inch) so the valve guides may be reamed true in
relation to the valve seat. After reaming guides, the
seat runout should be measured and resurfaced if
necessary. Refer to Refacing Valves and Valve Seats.
Replace cylinder head if guide does not clean
up with 0.80 mm (.030 inch) oversize reamer, or if
guide is loose in cylinder head.
TESTING VALVE SPRINGS
(1) Whenever valves have been removed for inspection,
reconditioning or replacement, valve springs should be
tested. As an example, the compression length of the
spring to be tested is 33.34mm (1-5/16 inches). Turn table
of Tool C-647 until surface is in line with the 33.34mm
(1-5/16 inch) mark on the threaded stud and the zero
mark on the front. Place spring over stud on the table and
lift compressing lever to set tone device (Fig. 20). Pull on
torque wrench until ping is heard. Take reading on torque
wrench at this instant. Multiply this reading by two. This
will give the spring load at test length. Fractional mea-
surements are indicated on the table for finer adjust-
ments. Refer to specifications to obtain specified height
and allowable tensions. Discard the springs that do not
meet specifications.
Fig. 18 Checking Wear on Valve GuideÐTypical
Fig. 19 Valve Guide Specification
Fig. 20 Testing Valve Spring with Tool C-647
9 - 28 2.2/2.5L ENGINE Ä