wheel CHEVROLET KODIAK 2009 Service Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 2009, Model line: KODIAK, Model: CHEVROLET KODIAK 2009Pages: 376, PDF Size: 5.39 MB
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2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables
can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching
each other. If they are, it could cause a ground
connection you do not want. You would not be able
to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could
damage the electrical systems.
To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the
parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the
jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission
in P (PARK) or a manual transmission in N (Neutral)
before setting the parking brake. If you have a
four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case
is in a drive gear, not in N (Neutral).
Notice:If you leave the radio or other accessories
on during the jump starting procedure, they could be
damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the
warranty. Always turn off the radio and other
accessories when jump starting the vehicle.
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette
lighter or accessory power outlets. Turn off the
radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will
avoid sparks and help save both batteries, and
it could save the radio!4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the
positive (+) and the negative (−) terminal locations
on that vehicle.
Open the hood on your
vehicle and find the remote
positive (+) terminal,
located under a red plastic
cover on the passenger’s
side of the vehicle.
Squeeze the tab to open
the cover and access the
remote positive (+)
terminal.
You will not see the battery (or batteries) of your
vehicle under the hood. They are located in a frame
mounted battery box, which is located on either
the driver’s or the passenger’s side of the vehicle.
You will not need to access your battery (or
batteries) for jump starting. The remote positive (+)
terminal is for that purpose.
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Rear Axle Shift Motor
When to Check and Change Fluid
If you have an optional air-shift two-speed, controlled
traction, or locking differential type rear axle, a good time
to check the fluid level in the axle shift motor is when
the rear axle lubricant is checked.
How to Check Fluid
Remove the plug on the front plate of the axle shift
motor, add enough fluid to raise the level to the bottom
of the filler plug hole, then replace the plug.
What to Use
Refer to your Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeePart C: Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-31.
Four-Wheel Drive
Transfer Case
When to Check Lubricant
It is not necessary to regularly check transfer case fluid
unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an
unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem.
Have it inspected and repaired.
How to Check Lubricant
A. Fill Plug
B. Drain Plug
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
If the level is below the bottom of the fill plug hole,
located on the transfer case, you’ll need to add some
lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to
the bottom of the fill plug hole. Use care not to
overtighten the plug.
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Front Wheel Bearings with
Oil-Filled Hubs
Notice:If you drive your vehicle through deep water
that is higher than the front or rear axle, water may
enter the axle housing and cause the axle lubricant to
break down. This could damage the gears inside.
Avoid driving your vehicle through deep water.
You should avoid driving your vehicle through deep
puddles or standing water. If you must drive through
water that is higher than the front or rear axle, see your
dealer immediately afterward to have the condition of
the axle lubricant checked.If your vehicle has oil-filled
hubs, occasionally check to
see if they have enough oil.
You can tell if there is oil
there by using the circular
gage on the sight glass.
If there isn’t, clean the rubber fill plug in the center of
the glass, and then remove it. Be careful not to allow
any dirt or water to get into the oil. Add enough of the
recommended oil to bring it up to the level mark that
you’ll see on the glass.
Refer to your Maintenance Schedule for the proper oil
to use.
When you fill the hub, check the glass again after driving
a short distance. It takes a while for the oil to flow through
the system, and you may find that you have to add a little
more to fill it to the proper level. Be sure not to overfill
the hub.
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Wheel Loading
Wheels are stamped with a maximum load and cold
inflation rating. Be sure you do not exceed these limits.
Dual Tire Operation
When the vehicle is new, check the wheel nut tightness
on all wheels with a torque wrench after your first
100 miles (160 km) and then 1,000 miles (1 600 km) after
that. Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is
removed or serviced, repeat the 100 miles (160 km), and
then 1,000 mile (1 600 km) wheel nut tightness check.
SeeTightening the Wheel Nuts on page 5-80for wheel
nut tightening information and proper torque values.
{CAUTION:
If you operate your vehicle with a tire that is badly
underinflated, the tire can overheat. An overheated
tire can lose air suddenly or catch fire. You or
others could be injured. Be sure all tires (including
the spare, if any) are properly inflated.
SeeTires on page 5-76andInflation - Tire Pressure on
page 5-77for more information on proper tire inflation.
When It Is Time for New Tires
Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures,
driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions,
influence when you need new tires.
Replace your tires when the tread depth is down to
1/8 of an inch (3.2 mm) for the front tires, or 1/16 of an
inch (1.6 mm) for a rear tire. Also, you need a new
tire if:
•You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
•The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric.
•The tire has a bump, bulge, or split.
•The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that
cannot be repaired well because of the size or
location of the damage.
The rubber in tires degrades over time, even if they are
not being used. This is also true for the spare tire, if your
vehicle has one. Multiple conditions affect how fast this
aging takes place, including temperatures, loading
conditions, and inflation pressure maintenance. With
proper care and maintenance tires will typically wear out
before they degrade due to age. If you are unsure about
the need to replace your tires as they get older, consult
the tire manufacturer for more information.
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If your vehicle has four-wheel drive, the axle differentials,
propshafts, and transfer case may be damaged if tires
of different sizes, brands or tread types are installed
on the front and rear axles. That damage would not be
covered under your warranty.
Buying New Tires
GM has developed and matched specific tires for your
vehicle. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly
recommends that you get tires that are the same size,
brand, load range, speed rating, and construction type
(radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original
tires. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires
that are designed to give the same performance and
vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires.
GM recommends replacing tires in sets of six or eight as
applicable. This is because uniform tread depth on all
tires will help keep your vehicle performing most like it did
when the tires were new. Replacing less than a full set of
tires can affect the braking and handling performance of
your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control
while driving. If you mix tires of different
sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted
tires) the vehicle may not handle properly,
and you could have a crash. Using tires of
different sizes, brands, or types may also
cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to
use the correct size, brand, and type of tires
on your vehicle’s wheels.
{CAUTION:
If you use bias-ply tires on the vehicle, the
wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after
many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel
could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use
only radial-ply tires with the wheels on the
vehicle.
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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The wheels on your vehicle were aligned at the
factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall
performance.
Proper front wheel alignment must be maintained in
order to ensure efficient steering, good directional
stability, and prevent abnormal tire wear. If you notice
unusual tire wear or your vehicle is pulling one way
or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you
notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth
road, your wheels may need to be balanced.
Tightening the Wheel Nuts
{CAUTION:
Wheel nuts that are not tight can work loose. If all
the nuts on a wheel come off, the wheel can come
off the vehicle, causing a crash. All wheel nuts
must be properly tightened. Follow the rules in this
section to be sure they are.
This section lets you know how often to check the
tightness of the wheel nuts on your vehicle and how tight
they must be.
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First, use these pictures to decide what kind of wheels
you have.
Then, refer to the following steps for the wheels
you have.Hub-Piloted Wheels, 8-Hole or 10-Hole
The studs and nuts used with these wheels have
right-hand threads.
1. With intermittent pilot pads, position a pad at
12 o’clock to center the wheel and reduce run-out.
2. Put the tire and rim assembly on the axle hub.
Install the outer rear tire and rim assembly so
that its valve stem is exactly opposite the valve stem
on the inner tire and rim assembly.
3. Put on the wheel nuts.
4. Finger-tighten the nuts.
5. Oil the surfaces (B)
between the nuts (C)
and washers (A). Do
not oil the studs or the
threads of the nut. Hub-Piloted Type,
8-Hole
Hub-Piloted Type,
10-Hole
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6. Tighten the nuts to 400 lb ft (542Y) if an 8-hole
stud or 480 lb ft (650Y) if a 10-hole stud, using
the following diagrams.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or the threads of
the wheel nuts. If you do, the wheel nuts might
come loose and the wheel could fall off, causing a
crash. 8-Hole
10-Hole (Front)10-Hole (Rear)
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{CAUTION:
If wheel studs are damaged, they can break. If all
the studs on a wheel broke, the wheel could come
off and cause a crash. If any stud is damaged
because of a loose-running wheel, it could be that
all of the studs are damaged. To be sure, replace
all studs on the wheel. If the stud holes in a wheel
have become larger, the wheel could collapse in
operation. Replace any wheel if its stud holes
have become larger or distorted in any way.
Inspect hubs and hub-piloted wheels for damage.
Because of loose running wheels, piloting pad
damage may occur and require replacement of the
entire hub, for proper centering of the wheels.
When replacing studs, hubs, wheel nuts or
wheels, be sure to use GM original equipment
parts.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause a crash. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a
cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure
to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you
need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.
How Often to Check
Wheel tightness is so important you should have a
technician check nut tightness on all wheels with
a torque wrench after your first 100 miles (160 km), and
then 1,000 miles (1 600 km) after that. Be sure to
repeat this service whenever you have a tire removed
or serviced. SeeScheduled Maintenance on page 6-5
for further information.
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Wheel Replacement
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted
or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, replace
the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts. If the wheel
leaks air, replace it.
Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.
Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying
capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted
the same way as the one it replaces.
{CAUTION:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts,
or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It
could affect the braking and handling of your
vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you
lose control. You could have a collision in which
you or others could be injured. Always use the
correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for
replacement.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts
or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original
equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the
right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
A leaking wheel could fail without warning. A
wheel designed for tubeless tires could be leaking
because it is damaged. Do not use an inner tube
or some other thing to try to stop the leaking. Get
a new wheel of the proper type.
{CAUTION:
Without the correct wheel, wheel bolts or wheel
nuts, you may not be able to stop properly, and
you could have other problems like a tire air-out.
You could have a collision. If you do not go to
your dealer to get a new wheel, wheel bolts or
wheel nuts, be sure you get the correct ones.
Each new wheel should match the original wheel
in load-carrying capacity, inflation pressure
capacity, diameter, width, offset and mounting
configuration.
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