wheel CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 1995 Service Manual

Driving In Mud, Sand, Snow, Or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction.
You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need
longer braking distances.
It’s best to
use a low gear when you’re in mud - the deeper the mud, the
lower the gear.
In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving
so you don’t get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in wheel traction. But it will
depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on
beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand.
This has an
effect on steering, accelerating, and braking.
You may want to reduce the air
pressure in your tires slightly when driving
on sand. This will improve
traction.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces,
it’s very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is
so poor
that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor
steering and difficult braking can cause
you to slide out of control.
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Driving ln Water
Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems. But heavy rain can
mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water
is before you drive through it. If it’s deep
enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles,
or exhaust pipe, don’t try it - you
probably won’t get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and
other vehicle parts.
If the water isn’t
too deep, then drive through it slowly. At fast speeds, water
splashes
on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also
occur
if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is
under water, you’ll never be able
to start your engine. When you go through
water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to
stop.
If
you have a diesel engine, see “Driving Through Water (Diesel Engines)”
in the Index for more information on driving through water.
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After Off-Road Driving
Remove any biush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis or
under the hood. These accumulations
can be a fire hazard.
After operation
in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked.
These substances
can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body
structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and
exhaust system for
damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer
to the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some
drivers are likely to be impaired
- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision
problems,
or by fatigue.
Here are some tips
on night driving.
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Drive defensively.
Don’t drink and drive.
Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlamps
behind you.
Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and
keep more
space between you and other vehicles.
Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light
up only
so much road ahead.
In remote areas, watch for animals.
If you’re tired, pull off the road
in a safe place and rest.
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When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in
advance. If you miss your exit do not, under any circumstances, stop and
back up. Drive on to the next exit.
The exit ramp
can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.
The exit speed
is usually posted.
Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of
motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend
to
think you are going slower than you actually are.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re
not fresh
- such as after a day’s work - don’t plan to make too many
miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and
shoes you
can easily drive in.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained,
it’s ready to go. If
it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of
course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in
GM dealers all
across
North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it.
Here are some things you can check before
a trip:
0 Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean
inside and outside?
Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels?
Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread
good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the
recommended pressure?
Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major
storm system?
Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route?
Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?
Highway Hypnosis
Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain
falling asleep
at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or
whatever.
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What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be
slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it
may offer the least traction
of all. You can get “wet ice” when it’s about
freezing
(32 OF; 0” C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving
on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.
Whatever the condition
- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -
drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too
fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires
even
more.
Your anti-lock brakes improve your ability to make a hard stop
on a
slippery road. Even though you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll
want to begin stopping sooner than
you would on dry pavement. See
“Anti-Lock” in the Index.
Allow greater following distance on any slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot
that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may
appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of
trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes
the surface of a
curve or
an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are
clear.
If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it.
Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden
steering maneuvers.
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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run
the engine, make it
go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the
accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat
that you get and it keeps
the battery (or batteries) charged. You will need a well-charged battery
(or
batteries) to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your
headlights. Let the heater
run for awhile.
If you have a diesel engine, you may have
to run it at a higher speed to get
enough heat. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the
way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat
this only when
you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible.
Preserve the fuel
as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of
the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half
hour or so until
help
comes.
Power Winches
If you wish to use a power winch on your vehicle, only use it when your
vehicle
is stationary or anchored.
I NOTICE:
Using a power winch with the transmission in gear may damage
the transmission. When operating a power winch, always leave
the transmission in NEUTRAL
(N).
Use the regular brakes, set the parking brake, or block the wheels to keep
your vehicle from rolling.
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Power Take-Off (PTO)
NOTICE:
If you have a PTO that will exceed 35 horsepower installed on
your vehicle, it could damage the transfer case or transmission.
When having a PTO installed on your vehicle, make sure that it
will not exceed
35 horsepower.
Before using a power take-off, refer to the manufacturer’s or installer’s
instructions.
NOTICE:
Using a PTO while operating in one place before the vehicle has
reached normal operating temperature can damage the transfer
case or transmission.
If you will be using the PTO while
operating in one place, drive and warm up the vehicle before
using the PTO.
To engage a power take-off
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL (N).
3. Hold the clutch pedal down and engage the power take-off.
NOTICE:
Using a PTO for more than four hours without driving your
vehicle can damage the transfer case or transmission.
If using a
PTO for more than four hours without driving your vehicle,
drive your vehicle for
a while to allow the transfer case and
transmission to cool.
If you are going to drive the vehicle, shift the transmission into the gear
you want. Then shift the transfer case into the range you want
(if you
have four-wheel drive), apply the regular brakes and release the
parking brake.
4. Release the clutch (and the regular brakes) as you normally would.
When
you release the clutch, the power take-off will start.
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Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out
for the open road,
you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself
with the feel
of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle
you are driving is now a good
deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle
is by itself.
Before
you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments),
safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment.
If the
trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working.
This
lets you check your electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally
to be sure that the load is secure, and
that the lamps and any trailer brakes are
still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when
driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help
you avoid situations that
require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer.
And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before
you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the
trailer
to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the
right, move your hand to
the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide
you.
Making Turns
I NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the traile\
r
to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this
so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other
objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
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2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the
chocks absorb the load.
4. Re-apply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then
shift to
PARK (P), or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission.
5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a
drive gear-not
in NEUTRAL (N).
6. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
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NOTICE:
Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your
vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your vehicle warranty.
Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it could
damage your vehicle, even if you have a manual transmission.
And if you have an automatic transmission, it won’t start that
way.
To Jump Start Your Vehicle
Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative
ground system.
NOTICE:
If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative
ground, both vehicles can be damaged.
If you have a diesel engine vehicle with two batteries (or more), you
should know before you begin that, especially
in cold weather, you may
not be able to get enough power from a single battery in another
vehicle
to start your diesel engine.
If your vehicle has more than one battery, use the battery that’s on the
passenger side
of the vehicle - this will reduce electrical resistance.
Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be
sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a
ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your
vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.
You could
be injured if the vehicles roll. Set the parking brake firmly on
each vehicle. Put
an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual
transmission in NEUTRAL (N). If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be
sure the transfer case is not in NEUTRAL (N).
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