engine CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 1995 Workshop Manual

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring (included in
the optional trailering package). The green arrows
on your instrument panel
will flash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will
also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn,
change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash
for turns even if the bulbs
on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think
drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important
to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep
downgrade. If
you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so
much that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On
a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph
(70 kdh) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating.
If
you have an automatic transmission you should use DRIVE (3) (or, as
you need to, a lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in
DRIVE (3) when towing a trailer will minimize heat build-up and extend
the life
of your transmission.
If
you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better
not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need
to,
a lower gear).
When towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, consider the following:
Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If
you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep
uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar
to engine overheating.
To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission
in PARK (P) (or the manual transmission
out of gear and the parking brake applied) for a few minutes before turning
the engine off.
If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine
Overheating” in the Index.
Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If
something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured,
and both your vehicle and
the trailer can be damaged.
But
if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) yet, or in gear
for a manual transmission.
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2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the
chocks absorb the load.
4. Re-apply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then
shift to
PARK (P), or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission.
5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a
drive gear-not
in NEUTRAL (N).
6. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
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Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See
the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially
important
in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system, an\
d brake
adjustment. Each
of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help
you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see
that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.
Trailer Lighting Systems Wiring
See “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index.
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NOTICE:
Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your
vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your vehicle warranty.
Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it could
damage your vehicle, even if you have a manual transmission.
And if you have an automatic transmission, it won’t start that
way.
To Jump Start Your Vehicle
Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative
ground system.
NOTICE:
If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative
ground, both vehicles can be damaged.
If you have a diesel engine vehicle with two batteries (or more), you
should know before you begin that, especially
in cold weather, you may
not be able to get enough power from a single battery in another
vehicle
to start your diesel engine.
If your vehicle has more than one battery, use the battery that’s on the
passenger side
of the vehicle - this will reduce electrical resistance.
Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be
sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a
ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your
vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.
You could
be injured if the vehicles roll. Set the parking brake firmly on
each vehicle. Put
an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual
transmission in NEUTRAL (N). If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be
sure the transfer case is not in NEUTRAL (N).
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Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off all lights that aren’t
needed, and radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries.
And it could
save your radio!
I NOTICE:
If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The
repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.
Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and
negative
(-) terminals on each battery.
Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or missing insulation. If
they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too.
Before
you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should
know. Positive
(+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to
negative (-) or a metal engine part. Don’t connect (+) to (-) or you’ll
get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too.
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Good Battery (-) Heavy Metal Engine Part
Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery,
but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as
good there, but the chance
of sparks getting back to the battery is much
less.
Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for
awhile.
0 Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery.
If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.
Remove Cables in this Order:
2 3 1. Heavy Metal
2. Good Battery (-)
3. Good Battery (+)
4. Dead Battery (+)
Engine Part
0 Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent electrical shorting.
Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal.
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Towing From the Rear
Engine Overheating
If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
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NOTICE:
If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no
coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs
would not be covered by your warranty.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may
not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high speed driving.
0 Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” in the Index.
If you get the overheat warning with
no sign of steam, try this for a minute
or
so:
I. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the
window as necessary.
3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the
highest gear while driving
- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (a) or
DRIVE (3) for automatic transmissions.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe,
drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on,
you can drive normally.
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If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, push the accelerator until the engine speed is
about twice as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back
to
normal idle speed after two or three minutes. Now see if the warning stops.
But then, if you still have the warning,
turn ofthe engine and get everyone
out
of the vehicle until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
Cooling System - Gasoline Engines
When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:
A. Coolant recovery tank
B . Engine fan( s)
C. Radiator pressure cap
If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything
else until
it cools down.
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The coolant level
should be
at or above
the
COLD mark. If it
isn’t, you may have a
leak in the radiator
hoses, heater hoses,
radiator, water pump
or somewhere else in
the cooling system.
NOTICE:
Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t \
covered
by your warranty.
If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the fan speed
increases when idle speed
is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down.
If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn
off the engine.
How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank
If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above
the
COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled)
and a proper antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant”
in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mix.)
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