tow CHEVROLET TRACKER 1997 Service Manual

A vehicle can fall from a car carrier if it isn’t
adequately secured. This can cause
a collision,
serious personal injury and vehicle damage. The
vehicle should be tightly secured with chains or
steel cables before it
is transported.
Don’t use substitutes (ropes, leather straps,
canvas webbing, etc.) that can be cut by sharp
edges underneath the towed vehicle.
When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key
turned to the
OFF position. The steering wheel should
be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service.
Do not use the
vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transmission
and transfer case, if you have one, should
be in
NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake released.
Don’t have your vehicle towed on the drive wheels
unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the
drive wheels, be sure to follow any speed and distance
restrictions later in this section,
or your transmission
will be damaged.
If these limitations must be exceeded,
then the drive wheels have to be supported on a dolly.
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Front Towing
A towing dolly must be used under the drive wheels
when towing
from the front.
Attach J-hook chains on both sides to the rear of lower
control arms inboard of
the spring. Position
a
4” x 4” wood beam across the sling chains
and against the lower control arm front attachment
brackets. Position the lower sling crossbar in front and
against the
4” x 4” wood beam.
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Attach a separate safety chain around the outboard end
of each lower control arm.
Rear Towing
If your vehicle has four-wheel drive, don’t have it towed
on the front wheels unless you must. If a vehicle with
four-wheel drive must be towed on the front wheels, set your manual, freewheeling hubs to
FREE or unlock your
automatic freewheeling hubs, and set your transfer case
to two-wheel drive.
If your vehicle must be towed on
the front wheels, don’t go more than 55 mph (90 km/h).
A towing dolly must be used under the front wheels
when towing from the real:
Attach J-hooks around the axle tube.
1 NOTICE:
Take care not to damage the brake pipes on the
axle tubes.
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If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no
steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes
the engine can get a little too hot when you:
0 Climb a long hill on a hot day.
0 Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute
or so:
1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.
3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);
otherwise, shift to the highest gear while
driving --AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE
0 or
DRIVE (D) for automatic transmissions.
Ii‘ you no longer have the overheat warning, you
can drive.
Just to be safe, drive slower for about
10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on,
you can drive normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine
for two or three minutes while you’re parked, to see
if
the warning stops. But then, if you still have the
warning,
turn off the engine and get everyone out of the
vehicle
until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
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If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out’’ while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d
use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake
to a stop -- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly
to a level place. Turn on your hazard
warning flashers.
Changing a tire can cause an injury. T vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over you or other
people. You and they could be badly injured.
Find
a level place to change your tire. To help
prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put an automatic transmission shift
lever in
PARK (P) or shift a manual
transmission to FIRST
(1) or
REVERSE (R).
3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle,
be sure the transfer case is in a drive
gear
-- not in NEUTRAL (N).
4. Turn off the engine.
To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move,
you can put blocks at the front and rear of the
tire farthest away from the one being changed.
That would be the tire on the other side of the
vehicle, at the opposite end.
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A CAUTION:
- -
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts
become loose after
a time. The wheel could come
off and cause an accident. When you change
a
wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places
where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an
emergency, you can use a cloth or
a paper towel
to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire
brush later, if
you need to, to get all the rust or
dirt off.
/!1 CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you
do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could
fall off, causing a serious accident.
6. Replace the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the
nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut
by hand
until the wheel is held against the hub.
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Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back
and forth between REVERSE
(R) and a forward gear (or
with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or
SECOND
(2) and REVERSE(R)), spinning the wheels
as little
as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while
you shift, and press lightly
on the accelerator pedal
when the transmission is
in gear. If that doesn’t get you
out after a few tries, you may need
to be towed out, Or,
you can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has
them. If you do need to be towed
out, see “Towing Your
Vehicle”
in the Index.
Using the Recovery Hooks
Your vehicle is equipped with recovery hooks. The
recovery hooks are provided
at the front and rear of your
vehicle. You may need to
use them if you’re stuck
off-road and need to be pulled
to some place where you
can continue driving.
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A CAUTION:
The recovery hooks, when used, are under a lot of
force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never
pull on the hooks at
a sideways angle. The hooks
could break off and you
or others could be
injured from the chain
or cable snapping back.
I NOTICE:
Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle.
Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not
be covered by warranty.
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Checking Engine Oil
Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or
cloth, then push it back in
all the way. Remove it again,
keeping the tip down, and check the level.
When to Add Oil
If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need
to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the
right kind.
This part explains what kind of oil to use. For
crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications’’
in the Index.
I NOTICE:
Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so
much oil that the oil level gets above the upper
mark that
shows the proper operating range,
your engine could be damaged.
Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in
the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way
back
in when you’re through.
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As shown in the chart, SAE 1OW-30 is best for your
vehicle. However, you can use
SAE 5W-30 if it’s going
to be colder than
60°F ( 16°C) before your next oil
change. When it’s very cold, you should use
SAE 5W-30. These numbers on an oil container show
its viscosity, or thickness.
Do not use other viscosity
oils, such as
SAE 20W-50.
NOTICE:
Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum
Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines
“Starburst’’ symbol. Failure to use the
recommended oil can result in engine damage not
covered
by your warranty.
GM Goodwrench’ oil meets all the requirements for
your vehicle.
If you are
in an area where the temperature falls below
-20°F (-29”C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an
SAE OW-30 oil. Both will provide
easier cold starting and better protection for your engine
at extremely low temperatures.
Engine Oil Additives
Don’t add anything to your oil. Your Geo dealer is ready
to advise if you think something
should be added.
When to Change Engine Oil
If any one of these is true for you, use the short tripkity
maintenance schedule:
0
0
0
0
0
Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).
This is particularly important when outside
temperatures are below freezing.
Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent
driving
in stop-and-go traffic).
You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or
off-road frequently.
You frequently tow a trailer or
use a carrier on top of
your vehicle.
The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi
or other commercial application.
Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to
break down sooner. If any one
of these is true for your
vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter
every
3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever
occurs first.
If none of them is true, use the long triphighway
maintenance schedule. Change oil and filter every
7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 7.5 months -- whichever
occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a
fully warmed
engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to
break down slower.
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