check engine CHRYSLER CARAVAN 2005 Owner's Manual

(7) Connect the brake pedal link to the torque
shaft. Install a NEW retaining clip at the torque
shaft end of the brake pedal-to-torque shaft link.
(8) Install the HVAC housing. (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/HVAC
HOUSING - INSTALLATION)
(9) Install the instrument panel. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/INSTRUMENT
PANEL ASSEMBLY - INSTALLATION)
CAUTION: Do not reuse the original brake lamp
switch. The switch can only be adjusted once. That
is during initial installation of the switch. If the
switch is not adjusted properly or has been
removed for some service, a new switch must be
installed and adjusted.
(10) Remove and replace the brake lamp switch
with a NEW switch. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - REMOVAL), (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - INSTALLATION)
(11) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of
the brakes.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION
The power brake booster mounts on the engine
compartment side of the dash panel. It is connected
to the brake pedal by the input (push) rod (Fig. 64).
The master cylinder is bolted to the front of the
booster. A vacuum line connects the power brake
booster to the intake manifold.
All Left-Hand-Drive (LHD) vehicles use a 270 mm
single diaphragm vacuum power brake booster. All
Right-Hand-Drive (RHD) vehicles use a 225/200 mm
tandem diaphragm vacuum power brake booster.
Vehicles equipped with Disc/Disc brakes use a dif-
ferent power brake booster than vehicles equipped
with Disc/Drum brakes. Differences between the two
are internal. Service is the same for all boosters.
The power brake booster can be identified by the
tag attached to the body of the booster (Fig. 65). This
tag contains the production part number, the date it
was built, and who the manufacturer of the power
brake booster is.
NOTE: The power brake booster assembly is not a
repairable component and must be replaced as a
complete assembly if found to be faulty in any way.
The check valve located on the power brake
booster face is not repairable, but it can be
replaced separately from the power brake booster.The different engine combinations used in this
vehicle require different vacuum hose routings to the
power brake booster. All vacuum hoses must be
routed from the engine to the power brake booster
without kinks or excessively tight bends.
Fig. 64 Power Brake Booster (Typical)
1 - VACUUM CHECK VALVE
2 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER ASSEMBLY
3 - INPUT ROD
4 - POWER BOOSTER ASSEMBLY TO DASH PANEL MOUNTING
STUDS (4)
5 - MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING STUDS (2)
6 - OUTPUT ROD
Fig. 65 MASTER CYLINDER AND BOOSTER
1 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
2 - BOOSTER IDENTIFICATION LABEL
3 - FLUID LEVEL SWITCH CONNECTOR
4 - PRIMARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
5 - SECONDARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
6 - MASTER CYLINDER
RSBRAKES - BASE5-45
PEDAL TORQUE SHAFT - RHD (Continued)

OPERATION
The power brake booster reduces the amount of
force required by the driver to obtain the necessary
hydraulic pressure to stop a vehicle.
The power brake booster is vacuum operated. The
vacuum is supplied from the intake manifold on the
engine through a vacuum hose and the power brake
booster check valve (Fig. 64).
As the brake pedal is depressed, the power brake
booster's input rod moves forward (Fig. 64). This
opens and closes valves in the power booster allowing
atmospheric pressure to enter on one side of a dia-
phragm. Engine vacuum is always present on the
other side. This difference in pressure forces the out-
put rod of the power brake booster out against the
primary piston of the master cylinder. As the pistons
in the master cylinder move forward this creates the
hydraulic pressure in the brake system.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER BRAKE
BOOSTER
BASIC TEST
(1) With engine off, depress and release the brake
pedal several times to purge all vacuum from the
power brake booster.
(2) Depress and hold the pedal with light effort (15
to 25 lbs. pressure), then start the engine.
The pedal should fall slightly, then hold. Less effort
should be needed to apply the pedal at this time. If
the pedal fell as indicated, perform the VACUUM
LEAK TEST listed after the BASIC TEST. If the
pedal did not fall, continue on with this BASIC
TEST.
(3) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve.
(4) Start the engine.
(5) When the engine is at warm operating temper-
ature, allow it to idle and check the vacuum at the
gauge.
If the vacuum supply is 12 inches Hg (40.5 kPa) or
more, the power brake booster is defective and must
be replaced. If the vacuum supply is below 12 inches
Hg, continue on with this BASIC TEST.
(6) Shut off the engine.
(7) Connect the vacuum gauge to the vacuum ref-
erence port on the engine intake manifold.
(8) Start the engine and observe the vacuum
gauge.
If the vacuum is still low, check the engine tune
and repair as necessary. If the vacuum is above 12
inches Hg, the hose or check valve to the booster has
a restriction or leak.
Once an adequate vacuum supply is obtained,
repeat the BASIC TEST.
VACUUM LEAK TEST
(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve.
(2) Start the engine.
(3) Allow the engine to warm up to normal operat-
ing temperature and engine idle.
(4) Using vacuum line pliers, close off the vacuum
supply hose near the booster, but before the vacuum
gauge, then observe the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 1.0 inch Hg (3.3 kPa)
in one minute, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 1.0
inch Hg in one minute time span. If the loss is more
than 1.0 inch Hg, replace the power brake booster. If
it is not, continue on with this test.
(5) Remove the pliers from the hose temporarily.
(6) Apply light effort (approximately 15 lbs. of
force) to the brake pedal and hold the pedal steady.
Do not move the pedal once the pressure is applied
or the test results may vary.
(7) Have an assistant reattach the vacuum line
pliers to the vacuum supply hose.
(8) Allow 5 seconds for stabilization, then observe
the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 3.0 inches Hg (10 kPa)
in 15 seconds, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 3.0
inches Hg in 15 seconds time span. If the loss is
more than 3.0 inches Hg, replace the power brake
booster. If it is not, the booster is not defective.
(9) Remove the pliers and vacuum gauge.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - LHD
CAUTION: Reserve vacuum in power brake booster
must be pumped down (removed) before removing
master cylinder from booster. This is necessary to
prevent booster from sucking in any contamination
as master cylinder is removed. This can be done
simply by pumping the brake pedal, with the vehi-
cle's engine not running, until a firm feeling brake
pedal is achieved.
(1) With engine not running, pump the brake
pedal until a firm pedal is achieved (4-5 strokes).
(2) Remove negative battery cable terminal from
battery.
(3) Remove positive battery cable terminal from
battery.
(4) Remove battery thermal guard shield.
(5) Remove battery clamp, nut and battery from
the battery tray.
5 - 46 BRAKES - BASERS
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

(6) Remove screw securing engine coolant filler
tube to battery tray.
(7) If the vehicle is equipped with speed control,
disconnect the vacuum hose at the vacuum tank built
into the battery tray.
(8) Remove the two nuts and one bolt securing bat-
tery tray in place. Remove battery tray.
(9) If vehicle is equipped with speed control:
(a) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
the speed control servo.
(b) Remove the two servo mounting nuts.
(c) Lay speed control servo off to the side, out of
the way.
(10) Remove the wiper module (unit). (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MOD-
ULE - REMOVAL)
(11) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
brake fluid level switch in master cylinder fluid res-
ervoir (Fig. 66).
CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder
from the power brake vacuum booster, the master
cylinder and vacuum booster must be thoroughly
cleaned. This must be done to prevent dirt particles
from falling into the power brake vacuum booster.
(12) Clean area where master cylinder assembly
attaches to power brake booster. Use only a solvent
such as MopartBrake Parts Cleaner or equivalent.(13) Disconnect primary and secondary brake
tubes from ABS integrated control unit or non-ABS
junction block (Fig. 67). Install sealing plugs in the
now open brake tube ports and install caps on ends
of tubes.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the brake
tubes from the master cylinder when removing the
master cylinder from the vacuum booster.
(14) Remove two nuts attaching master cylinder to
power brake booster (Fig. 67).
(15) Slide master cylinder straight out of power
brake booster. Remove master cylinder with primary
and secondary tubes from vehicle.
CAUTION: A seal on the rear of the master cylinder
is used to create the seal for holding vacuum in the
power brake vacuum booster. The vacuum seal on
the master cylinder MUST be replaced whenever the
master cylinder is removed from the power brake
vacuum booster.
(16) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve
located on vacuum booster.DO NOT REMOVE
CHECK VALVE FROM POWER BRAKE
BOOSTER.
Fig. 66 Master Cylinder And Booster
1 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
2 - BOOSTER IDENTIFICATION LABEL
3 - FLUID LEVEL SWITCH CONNECTOR
4 - PRIMARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
5 - SECONDARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
6 - MASTER CYLINDER
Fig. 67 Master Cylinder Mounting
1 - MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING NUTS
2 - MASTER CYLINDER
3 - SECONDARY TUBE NUT AT ICU
4 - PRIMARY TUBE NUT AT ICU
RSBRAKES - BASE5-47
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

(c) Lay speed control servo off to the side, out of
the way.
(9) If the vehicle is equipped with the 2.5L diesel
engine, remove the coolant recovery pressure con-
tainer and bracket. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
COOLANT RECOVERY PRESS CONTAINER -
REMOVAL)
(10) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
brake fluid level switch in master cylinder fluid res-
ervoir (Fig. 71).
CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder
from the power brake vacuum booster, the master
cylinder and vacuum booster must be thoroughly
cleaned. This must be done to prevent dirt particles
from falling into the power brake vacuum booster.
(11) Clean area where master cylinder assembly
attaches to power brake booster. Use only a solvent
such as MopartBrake Parts Cleaner or equivalent.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the brake
tubes from the master cylinder when removing the
master cylinder from the booster.
(12) Remove two nuts attaching master cylinder to
power brake booster (Fig. 72).
(13) Slide master cylinder straight out of power
brake booster. Lay master cylinder with primary and
secondary tubes to the side, out of the way.
CAUTION: A seal on the rear of the master cylinder
is used to create the seal for holding vacuum in the
power brake vacuum booster. The vacuum seal on
the master cylinder MUST be replaced whenever themaster cylinder is removed from the power brake
vacuum booster.
(14) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve
located on booster.DO NOT REMOVE CHECK
VALVE FROM POWER BRAKE BOOSTER.
(15) Under the instrument panel, remove booster
input rod trim cover.
(16) Locate the booster input rod to brake pedal
torque shaft connection under the instrument panel.
Position a small screwdriver between the center tang
on the retaining clip (Fig. 73).
Fig. 71 RHD Master Cylinder And Power Brake
Booster
1 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
2 - BRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
3 - FLUID RESERVOIR
4 - MASTER CYLINDER
Fig. 72 RHD Master Cylinder Mounting
1 - PRIMARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
2 - SECONDARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
3 - MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING NUTS
Fig. 73 Booster Input Rod Pin Retaining Clip
(Typical)
1 - BRAKE PEDAL
2 - INPUT ROD
3 - SCREWDRIVER
4 - RETAINING CLIP
5 - BRAKE PEDAL PIN
RSBRAKES - BASE5-49
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

CAUTION: Do not reuse the original brake lamp
switch. The switch can only be adjusted once. That
is during initial installation of the switch. If the
switch is not adjusted properly or has been
removed for some service, a new switch must be
installed and adjusted.
(5) Remove and replace the brake lamp switch
with a NEW switch. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - REMOVAL), (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - INSTALLATION)
(6) Install the silencer panel below the steering
column.
(7) Connect vacuum hose to check valve on power
brake booster.
CAUTION: The master cylinder (and its rear seal) is
used to create the seal for holding vacuum in the
vacuum booster. The vacuum seal on the master
cylinder MUST be replaced with a NEW seal when-
ever the master cylinder is removed from the vac-
uum booster.
CAUTION: When removing the vacuum seal from
the master cylinder do not use a sharp tool.
(8) Using a soft tool such as a trim stick, remove
the vacuum seal from the master cylinder mounting
flange.
(9) Install a NEW vacuum seal on rear mounting
flange of the master cylinder (Fig. 77).
(10) Position master cylinder on studs of booster,
aligning push rod on booster with master cylinder
piston.(11) Install the two nuts mounting the master cyl-
inder to the booster (Fig. 67). Tighten both mounting
nuts to a torque of 25 N´m (225 in. lbs.).
(12) Connect wiring harness connector to brake
fluid level switch in the master cylinder fluid reser-
voir (Fig. 66).
(13) Connect primary and secondary brake tubes
to ABS ICU or non-ABS junction block (Fig. 67).
Tighten the tube nuts to 17 N´m (145 in lbs.).
(14) Install wiper module (unit). (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MOD-
ULE - INSTALLATION)
(15) If equipped with speed control, install speed
control servo and connect wiring connector. Tighten
the mounting nuts to a torque of 14 N´m (124 in.
lbs.).
(16) Install the battery tray. Install the two nuts
and one bolt attaching the battery tray to the vehicle.
Tighten the bolt and nuts to a torque of 14 N´m (124
in. lbs.).
(17) If vehicle is equipped with speed control, con-
nect the servo vacuum hose to the vacuum tank on
the battery tray.
(18) Install the air inlet resonator and hoses as an
assembly on the throttle body and air cleaner hous-
ing. Securely tighten hose clamp at air cleaner hous-
ing and throttle body.
(19) Secure the engine coolant filler neck to the
battery tray with its mounting screw.
(20) Install the battery, clamp and mounting nut.
(21) Install the positive battery cable on the bat-
tery.
(22) Install the negative battery cable on the bat-
tery.
(23) Install the battery thermal guard shield.
(24) Bleed the base brakes as necessary. (Refer to
5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(25) Road test vehicle to ensure operation of the
brakes.
INSTALLATION - RHD
(1) Position power brake booster on dash panel
using the reverse procedure of its removal (Fig. 75).
(2) Below instrument panel, first install the two
upper nuts mounting the booster to the dash panel,
drawing it into place, then install the two lower
mounting nuts. Tighten the mounting nuts to a
torque of 29 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(3) Using lubriplate, or equivalent, coat the sur-
face of the brake pedal torque shaft pin where it con-
tacts the booster input rod.
CAUTION: When installing the brake pedal torque
shaft pin on the power brake booster input rod, do
not re-use the old retaining clip.
Fig. 77 Vacuum Seal (Typical)
1 - MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
2 - VACUUM SEAL
RSBRAKES - BASE5-51
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

(4) Install booster input rod on brake pedal torque
shaft pin and install a NEW retaining clip (Fig. 78).
(5) Install booster input rod trim cover.
(6) Connect vacuum hose to check valve on power
brake booster.
CAUTION: The master cylinder (and its rear seal) is
used to create the seal for holding vacuum in the
vacuum booster. The vacuum seal on the master
cylinder MUST be replaced with a NEW seal when-
ever the master cylinder is removed from the vac-
uum booster.
CAUTION: When removing the vacuum seal from
the master cylinder, do not use a sharp tool.
(7) Using a soft tool such as a trim stick, remove
the vacuum seal from the master cylinder mounting
flange.
(8) Install a NEW vacuum seal on rear mounting
flange of the master cylinder (Fig. 79).
(9) Position master cylinder on studs of booster,
aligning push rod on booster with master cylinder
piston.
(10) Install the two nuts mounting the master cyl-
inder to the booster (Fig. 72). Tighten both mounting
nuts to a torque of 25 N´m (225 in. lbs.).
(11) Connect wiring harness connector to brake
fluid level switch in the master cylinder fluid reser-
voir (Fig. 71).
(12) If the vehicle is equipped with the 2.5L diesel
engine, install the coolant recovery pressure con-
tainer and bracket. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/COOLANT RECOVERY PRESS CONTAINER -
INSTALLATION)
(13) If equipped with speed control, install speed
control servo and connect wiring connector. Tighten
the mounting nuts to a torque of 14 N´m (124 in.
lbs.).
(14) Install the battery tray. Install the two nuts
and one bolt attaching the battery tray to the vehicle.
Tighten the bolt and nuts to a torque of 14 N´m (124
in. lbs.).
(15) If vehicle is equipped with speed control, con-
nect the servo vacuum hose to the vacuum tank on
the battery tray.
(16) Install the battery, clamp and mounting nut.
(17) Install the positive battery cable on the bat-
tery.
(18) Install the negative battery cable on the bat-
tery.
(19) Install the battery thermal guard shield.
CAUTION: Do not reuse the original brake lamp
switch. The switch can only be adjusted once. That
is during initial installation of the switch. If the
switch is not adjusted properly or has been
removed for some service, a new switch must be
installed and adjusted.
(20) Remove and replace the brake lamp switch
with a NEW switch. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - REMOVAL), (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - INSTALLATION)
(21) Bleed the base brakes as necessary. (Refer to
5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(22) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation
of the brakes.
Fig. 78 Retaining Pin Installed On Brake Pedal Pin
(Typical)
1 - BRAKE PEDAL
2 - RETAINING CLIP
3 - BOOSTER INPUT ROD
Fig. 79 Vacuum Seal (Typical)
1 - MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
2 - VACUUM SEAL
5 - 52 BRAKES - BASERS
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

COOLING
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
COOLING
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM........1
DESCRIPTION - HOSE CLAMPS...........1
OPERATION
OPERATION - COOLING SYSTEM.........2
OPERATION - HOSE CLAMPS............2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING
SYSTEM LEAK TEST....................2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING
SYSTEM FLOW CHECK.................3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING
SYSTEM AERATION....................4
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING
SYSTEM DEAERATION..................4
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLING
SYSTEM DRAINING....................4STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLING
SYSTEM FILLING......................4
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ADDING
ADDITIONAL COOLANT.................4
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLANT
LEVEL CHECK........................4
SPECIFICATIONS
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT TENSION.......5
TORQUE.............................5
SPECIAL TOOLS
COOLING SYSTEM.....................6
ACCESSORY DRIVE.......................7
ENGINE...............................13
TRANSMISSION.........................38
COOLING
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM
The cooling system components consist of a radia-
tor, electric fan motors, shroud, pressure cap, thermo-
stat, transmission oil cooler, water pump, hoses,
clamps, coolant, and a coolant reserve system to com-
plete the circuit.
DESCRIPTION - HOSE CLAMPS
The cooling system uses spring type hose clamps.
If a spring type clamp replacement is necessary,
replace with the original Mopartequipment spring
type clamp.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only a original equipment clamp
with matching number or letter (Fig. 1).
Fig. 1 Spring Clamp Size Location
1 - SPRING CLAMP SIZE LOCATION
RSCOOLING7-1

With engine not running, remove radiator pressure
cap and wipe the radiator filler neck sealing seat
clean. The radiator should be full.
Attach the Cooling System Tester 7700 or equiva-
lent to the radiator, as shown in (Fig. 4) and apply
104 kPa (15 psi) pressure. If the pressure drops more
than 13.8 kPa (2 psi) in 2 minutes, inspect all points
for external leaks.
All radiator and heater hoses should be shaken
while at 104 kPa (15 psi), since some leaks occur only
while driving due to engine movement.If there are no external leaks, after the gauge dial
shows a drop in pressure, detach the tester. Start
engine and run until the thermostat opens, allowing
the coolant to expand. Reattach the cooling system
tester. If the needle on the dial fluctuates it indicates
a combustion leak, usually a head gasket leak.
WARNING: WITH TOOL IN PLACE, PRESSURE WILL
BUILD UP FAST. EXCESSIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP,
BY CONTINUOUS ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE
RELEASED TO A SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER
PERMIT PRESSURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
If the needle on the dial does not fluctuate, raise
the engine rpm a few times. If an abnormal amount
of coolant or steam emits from the tailpipe, it may
indicate a coolant leak caused by a faulty head gas-
ket, cracked engine block, or cracked cylinder head.
There may be internal leaks that can be deter-
mined by removing the oil dipstick. If water globules
appear intermixed with the oil it will indicate an
internal leak in the engine. If there is an internal
leak, the engine must be disassembled for repair.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
FLOW CHECK
To determine whether coolant is flowing through
the cooling system, use one of the following proce-
dures:
PREFERRED METHOD
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE COOLING SYS-
TEM PRESSURE CAP OR ANY HOSE WITH THE
SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE BECAUSE
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
²Remove pressure cap when engine is cold.
Remove small amount of coolant. Idle engine until
thermostat opens. You should observe coolant flow
while looking down the filler neck. Once flow is
detected install the pressure cap. Replace removed
coolant into coolant recovery container.
ALTERNATIVE METHOD
²If engine is cold, idle engine until normal oper-
ating temperature is reached. Feel the upper radiator
hose. If it is hot, coolant is circulating.
Fig. 3 Hose Clamp Tool
1 - HOSE CLAMP TOOL 6094
2 - HOSE CLAMP
Fig. 4 Pressure Testing
RSCOOLING7-3
COOLING (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
AERATION
Low coolant level in a cross flow radiator will
equalize in both tanks with engine off. With engine
at running and at operating temperature, the high
pressure inlet tank runs full and the low pressure
outlet tank drops, resulting in cooling system aera-
tion. Aeration will draw air into the water pump
resulting in the following:
²High reading shown on the temperature gauge.
²Loss of coolant flow through the heater core.
²Corrosion in the cooling system.
²Water pump seal may run dry, increasing the
risk of premature seal failure.
²Combustion gas leaks into the coolant can also
cause the above problems.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
DEAERATION
Air can only be removed from the system by gath-
ering under the pressure cap. On the next heat up it
will be pushed past the pressure cap into the coolant
recovery bottle by thermal expansion of the coolant.
It then escapes to the atmosphere in the coolant
recovery bottle and is replaced with coolant on cool
down.
To effectively deaerate the system, multiple ther-
mal cycles of the system may be required.
NOTE: Deaeration does not occur at engine idleÐ
higher engine speeds are required. Normal driving
will deaerate cooling system.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLING SYSTEM
DRAINING
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE OR LOOSEN THE
COOLANT PRESSURE CAP, CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS, OR THE DRAINCOCK WHEN THE
SYSTEM IS HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
(1)Without removing radiator pressure cap
and with system not under pressure, using a
screwdriver, open the draincock. The draincock is
located on the lower left side of radiator.
(2) After the coolant recovery/reserve container is
empty, then remove coolant pressure cap (Fig. 5).
(3) Remove the cylinder block drain plug(s).
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLING SYSTEM
FILLING
Remove radiator pressure cap (Fig. 5) and fill sys-
tem, using a 50/50 mix of MopartAntifreeze/Coolant,
5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula and distilled water.
Continue filling system until full.Be careful not
to spill coolant on drive belts or the generator.
For cooling system capacity, (Refer to LUBRICATION
& MAINTENANCE/FLUID CAPACITIES - SPECIFI-
CATIONS).
Fill coolant recovery/reserve container (Fig. 5) to at
least the MAX mark with 50/50 solution. It may be
necessary to add coolant to the recovery/reserve con-
tainer after three or four warm up/cool down cycles
to maintain coolant level between the MAX and MIN
mark. This will allow trapped air to be removed from
the system.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ADDING
ADDITIONAL COOLANT
The radiator cap should not be removed.
When additional coolant is needed to maintain this
level, it should be added to the coolant recovery/re-
serve container (Fig. 5). Use only 50/50 mix of ethyl-
ene glycol type antifreeze and distilled water. For the
recommeded antifreeze/coolant type (Refer to LUBRI-
CATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
CAUTION: Do not use well water, or suspect water
supply in cooling system. A 50/50 ethylene glycol
and distilled water mix is recommended. For the
recommeded antifreeze/coolant type (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLANT LEVEL
CHECK
NOTE: Do not remove radiator cap for routine cool-
ant level inspections.
The coolant reserve system provides a quick visual
method for determining the coolant level without
removing the radiator cap.With the engine cold
and not running,simply observe the level of the
coolant in the recovery/reserve container (Fig. 5). The
coolant level should be between the MIN and MAX
marks.
7 - 4 COOLINGRS
COOLING (Continued)

ACCESSORY DRIVE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
DRIVE BELTS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ACCESSORY
DRIVE BELT..........................7
CLEANING.............................8
INSPECTION...........................8
DRIVE BELTS - 2.4L
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CHECKING
POWER STEERING BELT TENSION........8
REMOVAL.............................9
INSTALLATION..........................9ADJUSTMENTS........................10
BELT TENSIONER - 2.4L
REMOVAL.............................11
INSTALLATION.........................11
DRIVE BELTS - 3.3/3.8L
REMOVAL.............................11
INSTALLATION.........................12
BELT TENSIONER - 3.3/3.8L
REMOVAL.............................12
INSTALLATION.........................12
DRIVE BELTS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIONS
INSUFFICIENT ACCESSORY
OUTPUT DUE TO BELT SLIPPAGE1. Belt too loose 1. (a) Replace belt (auto-tensioned
belts)
(b) Adjust power steering belt
tension (4 cyl. engine)
2. Belt excessively glazed or worn 2. Replace and tighten as specified
BELT SQUEAL WHEN
ACCELERATING ENGINE1. Belts too loose 1. (a) Replace belt (auto-tensioned
belts)
(b) Adjust power steering belt
tension (4 cyl. engine)
2. Belt glazed 2. Replace belts
BELT SQUEAK AT IDLE 1. Belts too loose 1. (a) Replace belt (auto-tensioned
belts)
(b) Adjust power steering belt
tension (4 cyl. engine)
2. Dirt or paint imbedded in belt 2. Replace belt
3. Non-uniform belt 3. Replace belt
4. Misaligned pulleys 4. Align accessories
5. Non-uniform groove or eccentric
pulley5. Replace pulley
RSACCESSORY DRIVE7-7