tire type CHRYSLER VOYAGER 2001 User Guide

arately for each corner or side of the vehicle depend-
ing on optional equipment and type of vehicle
service. If the coil springs require replacement, be
sure that the springs are replaced with springs meet-
ing the correct load rating and spring rate for the
vehicle and its specific options.
OPERATION - STRUT ASSEMBLY
The strut assembly cushions the ride of the vehicle,
controlling vibration, along with jounce and rebound
of the suspension.
The coil spring controls ride quality and maintains
proper ride height.
The spring isolators isolate the coil spring at the
top and bottom from coming into metal-to-metal con-
tact with the upper seat and strut.
The jounce bumper limits suspension travel and
metal-to-metal contact under full jounce condition.
The strut dampens jounce and rebound motions of
the coil spring and suspension.
During steering maneuvers, the strut assembly
(through a pivot bearing in the upper strut mount)
and steering knuckle (through the lower ball joint)
turn as an assembly.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STRUT ASSEMBLY
(FRONT)
(1) Inspect for damaged or broken coil springs
(Fig. 39).
(2) Inspect for torn or damaged strut assembly
dust boots (Fig. 39).
(3) Inspect the coil spring isolator on the lower
spring seat for any signs of damage or deterioration.
(4) Lift dust boot (Fig. 40) and inspect strut
assembly for evidence of fluid running from the
upper end of fluid reservoir. (Actual leakage will be a
stream of fluid running down the side and dripping
off lower end of unit). A slight amount of seepage
between the strut rod and strut shaft seal is not
unusual and does not affect performance of the strut
assembly (Fig. 40). Also inspect jounce bumpers for
signs of damage or deterioration.
REMOVAL - STRUT ASSEMBLY
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE NUT FROM THE
STRUT ROD WHILE STRUT ASSEMBLY IS
INSTALLED IN VEHICLE, OR BEFORE STRUT
ASSEMBLY SPRING IS COMPRESSED.
(1) Raise the vehicle. See Hoisting in Lubrication
and Maintenance.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly from loca-
tion on front of vehicle requiring strut removal.(3) If both strut assemblies are to be removed,
mark the strut assemblies right or left according to
which side of the vehicle they were removed from.
(4) Remove the hydraulic brake hose routing
bracket and the speed sensor cable routing bracket
from the strut damper brackets (Fig. 41).
Fig. 40 Strut Assembly Leakage Inspection (Typical)
1 - DUST BOOT
2 - STRUT SHAFT
3 - STRUT FLUID RESERVOIR
4 - INSPECT THIS AREA FOR EVIDENCE OF EXCESSIVE FLUID
LEAKAGE
Fig. 41 Brake Hose And Speed Sensor Cable
Routing
1 - STRUT DAMPER
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CABLE
3 - ROUTING BRACKET
4 - HYDRAULIC BRAKE HOSE
5 - ATTACHING BOLT
6 - ROUTING BRACKET
2 - 20 FRONTRS
STRUT (Continued)

body, Install the mounting bolts (Fig. 3). Tighten the
four mounting bolts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Raise or lower the jack until shock absorber
lower eye aligns with threads in axle housing. Install
shock absorber lower mounting bolt. Do not fully
tighten bolt at this time.
(10) Lower the vehicle and remove hoist arms and
block of wood from under vehicle.
(11) Tighten the spring front pivot bolt to 156 N´m
(115 ft. lbs.) torque.
(12) Tighten the lower shock absorber mounting
bolt to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) torque.
HUB / BEARING
DESCRIPTION
The rear wheel bearing and rear wheel hub of this
vehicle are a one-piece sealed unit, or hub and bear-
ing unit type assembly. The hub and bearing is
mounted to the center of the rear axle using 4
mounting bolts. It has five wheel mounting studs on
the hub flange.
All-Wheel-Drive vehicles have a hub and bearing
unit with a splined hole in the center of the hub for
rear driveshaft stub axle acceptance.Front-Wheel-Drive vehicles with antilock brakes
have an internally mounted wheel speed sensor and
tone wheel. This hub and bearing can be identified
by the rounded cap and molded in connector on the
rear of the assembly (Fig. 7). The sensor and tone
wheel cannot be serviced separately from the hub
and bearing.
OPERATION
The hub and bearing has internal bearings that
allow the hub to rotate with the tire and wheel
assembly (and driveshaft on All-Wheel-Drive vehi-
cles). The five wheel mounting studs mount the tire
and wheel assembly, and disc brake rotor to the vehi-
cle.
On All-Wheel-Drive vehicles, the splined mating of
the driveshaft stub axle and hub allows the drive-
shaft to rotate with the hub and wheel.
Front-Wheel-Drive vehicles equipped with antilock
brakes have a wheel speed sensor and tone wheel
mounted to the rear of the hub and bearing. The tone
wheel rotates with the hub which is sensed by the
wheel speed sensor.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HUB AND
BEARING (REAR)
The bearing contained in the hub and bearing
assembly will produce noise and vibration when worn
or damaged. The noise will generally change when
the bearings are loaded. A road test of the vehicle is
normally required to determine the location of a
worn or damaged bearing.
Find a smooth level road surface and bring the
vehicle up to a constant speed. When vehicle is at a
constant speed, swerve the vehicle back and forth
from the left and to the right. This will load and
Fig. 6 TOOL 8459 MOUNTED FOR BUSHING
INSTALLATION
1 - NUT
2 - WASHER
3 - BEARING
4 - LEAF SPRING EYE
5 - BUSHING
6 - INSTALLER PLATE (8459-3)
7 - PIN
8 - BODY (8459-1)
Fig. 7 HUB AND BEARING - FWD WITH ABS
2 - 30 REARRS
BUSHINGS (Continued)

STABILIZER BAR
DESCRIPTION
(1) Front-wheel-drive models use a stabilizer bar
that is mounted behind the rear axle. All-wheel-drive
models use a stabilizer bar that is mounted in front
of the rear axle.
The stabilizer bar interconnects both sides of the
rear axle and attaches to the rear frame rails using 2
rubber isolated link arms.
Both type stabilizer bars have the same basic com-
ponents. Attachment to the rear axle tube, and rear
frame rails is through rubber-isolated bushings.
The 2 rubber isolated links are connected to the
rear frame rails by brackets. These brackets are
bolted to the bottom of the frame rails.
OPERATION
Jounce and rebound movements affecting one
wheel are partially transmitted to the opposite wheel
to reduce body roll.
REMOVAL - AWD
(1) Raise vehicle. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.
(2) Remove the bolts securing the stabilizer bar to
links on each end of the bar.
(3) While holding the stabilizer bar in place,
remove the bolts that attach the stabilizer bar bush-
ing retainers to the rear axle (Fig. 42).
(4) Remove the stabilizer bar from the vehicle.
(5) Remove the bushings from the bar utilizing the
slits in the bushings.
(6) If the links need to be serviced, remove the
upper link arm to bracket bolt. Then remove link
arm from frame rail attaching bracket.
REMOVAL - FWD
(1) Raise vehicle. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.
(2) Remove the bolts securing the stabilizer bar to
links on each side of bar.
(3) While holding the stabilizer bar in place,
remove the bolts that attach the stabilizer bar bush-
ing retainers to the rear axle.
(4) Remove the stabilizer bar from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - AWD
(1) Install bushings on stabilizer bar utilizing slits
in bushings.
(2) Install the stabilizer bar on the rear axle (Fig.
42).(3) Install the bushing retainers over bushings and
aligning bolt holes.
(4) Install bushing retainers bolts. Do not tighten
at this time.
(5) Install bolts connecting links to stabilizer bar.
Do not tighten at this time.
(6) Lower the vehicle so that the full weight of the
vehicle is on all four tires. With the vehicle at its
curb height, tighten the following bolts to the torques
listed:
²Stabilizer bar bushing retainer-to-axle bracket
bolts Ð 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
²Stabilizer bar-to-link bolts Ð 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
INSTALLATION - FWD
(1) Lift the stabilizer bar onto the rear axle and
install the two retainer mounting bolts. DO NOT
TIGHTEN.
(2) Install the bolts attaching the stabilizer bar
links to the stabilizer bar. DO NOT TIGHTEN.
(3) Lower the vehicle so that the full weight of the
vehicle is on all four tires. With the vehicle at its
curb height, tighten the following bolts to the torques
listed:
²Stabilizer bar bushing retainer-to-axle bracket
bolts Ð 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
²Stabilizer bar-to-link Ð 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
Fig. 42 REAR STABILIZER BAR MOUNTING TO AWD
AXLE
1 - RETAINER
2 - BUSHING
3 - AWD AXLE
4 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - 44 REARRS

WHEEL ALIGNMENT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION...........................46
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.................49
SUSPENSION AND STEERING............49STANDARD PROCEDURE..................51
WHEEL ALIGNMENT....................51
CURB HEIGHT MEASUREMENT...........54
SPECIFICATIONS........................55
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION - WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Vehicle wheel alignment is the positioning of all
interrelated front and rear suspension angles. These
angles affect the handling and steering of the vehicle
when it is in motion. Proper wheel alignment is
essential for efficient steering, good directional stabil-
ity, and proper tire wear.
The method of checking a vehicle's front and rear
wheel alignment varies depending on the manufac-
turer and type of equipment used. The manufactur-
er's instructions should always be followed to ensure
accuracy of the alignment, except when
DaimlerChrysler Corporation's wheel alignment spec-
ifications differ.
On this vehicle, the suspension angles that can be
adjusted are as follows:
²Front Camber (with camber bolt package and
standard procedure)
²Front Toe
Check the wheel alignment and make all wheel
alignment adjustments with the vehicle standing at
its proper curb height specification. Curb height is
the normal riding height of the vehicle. It is mea-
sured from a certain point on the vehicle to the
ground or a designated area while the vehicle is sit-
ting on a flat, level surface. Refer to Curb Height
Measurement in this section for additional informa-
tion.
Typical wheel alignment angles and measurements
are described in the following paragraphs.
CAMBER
Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of
the tire and wheel assembly (Fig. 1). Camber is mea-
sured in degrees of angle relative to a true vertical
line. Camber is a tire wearing angle.
²Excessive negative camber will cause tread wear
at the inside of the tire.
²Excessive positive camber will cause tread wear
on the outside of the tire.CROSS CAMBER
Cross camber is the difference between left and
right camber. To achieve the cross camber reading,
subtract the right side camber reading from the left.
For example, if the left camber is +0.3É and the right
camber is 0.0É, the cross camber would be +0.3É.
Fig. 1 Camber
1 - WHEELS TILTED OUT AT TOP
2 - WHEELS TILTED IN AT TOP
2 - 46 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS

²Noise may also be caused by another component
of the vehicle coming in contact with the half shafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a result of one of the following
conditions:
²A torn seal boot on the inner or outer joint of the
half shaft assembly.
²A loose or missing clamp on the inner or outer
joint of the half shaft assembly.
²A damaged or worn half shaft CV joint.
SHUDDER OR VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
This problem could be a result of:
²A worn or damaged half shaft inner tripod joint.
²A sticking tripod joint spider assembly (inner tri-
pod joint only).
²Improper wheel alignment. (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
This problem could be a result of:
²Foreign material (mud, etc.) packed on the back-
side of the wheel(s).
²Out of balance tires or wheels. (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
²Improper tire and/or wheel runout. (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a
frame contact type hoist.
(2) Remove the cotter pin and nut lock (Fig. 2)
from the end of the half shaft.
(3) Remove the wave washer (Fig. 3) from the end
of the half shaft.
(4) Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the
vehicle. (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - REMOVAL)
(5) With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub
from turning,loosen and removethe half shaft
nut.
(6) Remove the two front disc brake caliper
adapter to steering knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 4).
Fig. 1 Unequal Length Half Shaft System
1 - STUB AXLE
2 - OUTER C/V JOINT
3 - OUTER C/V JOINT BOOT
4 - TUNED RUBBER DAMPER WEIGHT
5 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT
6 - OUTER C/V JOINT BOOT
7 - STUB AXLE
8 - OUTER C/V JOINT9 - RIGHT HALFSHAFT
10 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT BOOT
11 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT
12 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT
13 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT BOOT
14 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT & LEFT HALFSHAFT
3 - 2 HALF SHAFT - FRONTRS
HALF SHAFT - FRONT (Continued)

²Tires
²Road surfaces
²Wheel bearings
²Engine
²Transmission
²Exhaust
²Propeller shaft (vibration)
²Vehicle body (drumming)
Driveline module noises are normally divided into
two categories: gear noise or bearing noise. A thor-
ough and careful inspection should be completed to
determine the actual source of the noise before
replacing the driveline module.
The rubber mounting bushings help to dampen-out
driveline module noise when properly installed.
Inspect to confirm that no metal contact exists
between the driveline module case and the body. The
complete isolation of noise to one area requires
expertise and experience. Identifying certain types of
vehicle noise baffles even the most capable techni-
cians. Often such practices as:
²Increase tire inflation pressure to eliminate tire
noise.
²Listen for noise at varying speeds with different
driveline load conditions
²Swerving the vehicle from left to right to detect
wheel bearing noise.
All driveline module assemblies produce noise to a
certain extent. Slight carrier noise that is noticeable
only at certain speeds or isolated situations should be
considered normal. Carrier noise tends to peak at a
variety of vehicle speeds. Noise isNOT ALWAYSan
indication of a problem within the carrier.
TIRE NOISE
Tire noise is often mistaken for driveline module
noise. Tires that are unbalanced, worn unevenly or
are worn in a saw-tooth manner are usually noisy.
They often produce a noise that appears to originate
in the driveline module.
Tire noise changes with different road surfaces, but
driveline module noise does not. Inflate all four tires
with approximately 20 psi (138 kPa) more than the
recommended inflation pressure (for test purposes
only). This will alter noise caused by tires, but will
not affect noise caused by the differential. Rear axle
noise usually ceases when coasting at speeds less
than 30 mph (48 km/h); however, tire noise contin-
ues, but at a lower frequency, as the speed is
reduced.
After test has been completed lower tire pressure
back to recommended pressure.
GEAR NOISE (DRIVE PINION AND RING GEAR)
Abnormal gear noise is rare and is usually caused
by scoring on the ring gear and drive pinion. Scoringis the result of insufficient or incorrect lubricant in
the carrier housing.
Abnormal gear noise can be easily recognized. It
produces a cycling tone that will be very pronounced
within a given speed range. The noise can occur dur-
ing one or more of the following drive conditions:
²Drive
²Road load
²Float
²Coast
Abnormal gear noise usually tends to peak within
a narrow vehicle speed range or ranges. It is usually
more pronounced between 30 to 40 mph (48 to 64
km/h) and 50 to 60 mph (80 to 96 km/h). When objec-
tionable gear noise occurs, note the driving condi-
tions and the speed range.
BEARING NOISE (DRIVE PINION AND
DIFFERENTIAL)
Defective bearings produce a rough growl that is
constant in pitch and varies with the speed of vehi-
cle. Being aware of this will enable a technician to
separate bearing noise from gear noise.
Drive pinion bearing noise that results from defec-
tive or damaged bearings can usually be identified by
its constant, rough sound. Drive pinion front bearing
is usually more pronounced during a coast condition.
Drive pinion rear bearing noise is more pronounced
during a drive condition. The drive pinion bearings
are rotating at a higher rate of speed than either the
differential side bearings or the axle shaft bearing.
Differential side bearing noise will usually produce
a constant, rough sound. The sound is much lower in
frequency than the noise caused by drive pinion bear-
ings.
Bearing noise can best be detected by road testing
the vehicle on a smooth road (black top). However, it
is easy to mistake tire noise for bearing noise. If a
doubt exists, the tire treads should be examined for
irregularities that often causes a noise that resem-
bles bearing noise.
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION NOISE
Sometimes noise that appears to be in the driv-
eline module assembly is actually caused by the
engine or the transmission. To identify the true
source of the noise, note the approximate vehicle
speed and/or RPM when the noise is most noticeable.
Stop the vehicle next to a flat brick or cement wall
(this will help reflect the sound). Place the transaxle
inNEUTRAL. Accelerate the engine slowly up
through the engine speed that matches the vehicle
speed noted when the noise occurred. If the same
noise is produced, it usually indicates that the noise
is being caused by the engine or transaxle.
3 - 28 REAR DRIVELINE MODULERS
REAR DRIVELINE MODULE (Continued)

For information on master cylinder application,
bore and type, view the following table:
BRAKE SYSTEMMASTER CYLINDER
BORE/TYPE
Disc/Drum - ABS23.8 mm Conventional
Compensating Port
Disc/Drum - Non-ABS23.8 mm Conventional
Compensating Port
Disc/Disc - ABS25.4 mm (1-1/16 in.)
Conventional
Compensating Port
Disc/Disc ABS With
Traction Control25.4 mm (1-1/16 in.) Dual
Center Port
CAUTION: When replacing a master cylinder, be
sure to use the correct master cylinder for the type
of brake system the vehicle is equipped with.
The body of the master cylinder is an anodized alu-
minum casting. It has a machined bore to accept the
master cylinder pistons and threaded ports with
seats for the hydraulic brake line connections.
The brake fluid reservoir is mounted on the top of
the master cylinder. It is made of a see-through
polypropylene type plastic for easy fluid level view-
ing. A brake fluid level switch is attached to the
brake fluid reservoir.
The master cylinder is not a repairable component
and must be replaced if diagnosed to be functioning
improperly. The brake fluid reservoir and brake fluid
level switch can be replaced separately.
CAUTION: Do not hone the bore of the cylinder as
this will remove the anodized surface from the bore.
OPERATION
When the brake pedal is depressed, the master cyl-
inder primary and secondary pistons apply brake
pressure through the chassis tubes to the brakes at
each tire and wheel assembly.
The master cylinder primary outlet port supplies
hydraulic pressure to the right front and left rear
brakes. The secondary outlet port supplies hydraulic
pressure to the left front and right rear brakes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER CYLINDER
BLEEDING
CAUTION: When clamping master cylinder in vise,
only clamp master cylinder by its mounting flange,
do not clamp on primary piston, seal or body of
master cylinder.(1) Clamp the master cylinder in a vise using only
the mounting flange.
NOTE: Two different size bleeding tubes need to be
used depending on which type of master cylinder
the vehicle is equipped with. Vehicles equipped
with traction control have different size brake tubes
and nuts at the master cylinder than the non-trac-
tion control equipped vehicles. Be sure the correct
size bleeding tubes are used when bleeding the
master cylinder.
(2) Thread Bleeding Tubes, Special Tool 8358, for a
non-traction control master cylinder or Special Tool
8129 for a traction control master cylinder into mas-
ter cylinder primary and secondary ports. Position
outlet ends of bleeding tubes in reservoir with the
outlets below surface of brake fluid when reservoir is
filled to its proper level.
(3) Fill brake fluid reservoir with Mopartbrake
fluid or equivalent conforming to DOT 3 (DOT 4 and
DOT 4+ are acceptable) specifications.
(4) Using a wooden dowel, depress push rod slowly,
and then allow pistons to return to released position.
Repeat several times until all air bubbles are
expelled from master cylinder.
(5) Remove bleeding tubes from master cylinder
outlet ports, and then plug outlet ports and install
fill cap on reservoir.
(6) Remove master cylinder from vise.
(7) Install the filler cap on master cylinder fluid
reservoir.
(8) Install master cylinder. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES -
BASE/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MASTER CYL-
INDER - INSTALLATION)
REMOVAL - MASTER CYLINDER
CAUTION: Vacuum in the power brake booster must
be pumped down (removed) before removing mas-
ter cylinder from power brake booster. This is nec-
essary to prevent the power brake booster from
sucking in any contamination as the master cylin-
der is removed. This can be done simply by pump-
ing the brake pedal, with the vehicle's engine not
running, until a firm feeling brake pedal is achieved.
(1) With engine not running, pump brake pedal
until a firm pedal is achieved (4-5 strokes).
(2) Disconnect negative battery terminal.
(3) Disconnect positive battery terminal.
(4) Remove battery shield.
(5) Remove nut and clamp securing battery to tray,
remove battery.
5 - 34 BRAKES - BASERS
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)

BRAKE ROTOR LIMITS
Braking RotorRotor
ThicknessMinimum
Rotor
ThicknessRotor
Thickness
VariationRotor
Runout*
Front Rotor -
Disc/Drum Brakes
(TRW)27.87±28.13
mm
1.097-1.107
in.25.3 mm
0.996 in.0.009 mm
0.0004 in.0.035 mm
0.0014 in.
Front Rotor -
Disc/Disc Brakes
(Teves)27.90±28.10
mm
1.098-1.106
in.25.3 mm
0.996 in.0.008 mm
0.0003 in.0.035 mm
0.0014 in.
Rear Rotor12.25±12.75
mm
0.482 -0.502
in.11.25 mm
0.443 in.0.013 mm
0.0005 in.0.14 mm
0.0055 in.
*
TIR Total Indicator Reading (Measured On Vehicle)
REMOVAL - FRONT BRAKE ROTOR
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a
frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication
and Maintenance.
(2) Remove the front wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the two mounting bolts securing the
disc brake caliper adapter with brake caliper to the
steering knuckle (Fig. 72).(4) Remove the disc brake caliper and adapter as
an assembly from the steering knuckle (Fig. 72).
Hang the assembly out of the way using wire or a
bungee cord. Use care not to overextend the brake
hose when doing this.
(5) Remove any retainer clips from the wheel
mounting studs.
(6) Remove brake rotor from hub by pulling it
straight off wheel mounting studs (Fig. 72).
INSTALLATION - FRONT BRAKE ROTOR
(1) Install the brake rotor back on the hub and
bearing (Fig. 72).
(2) Install brake caliper and adapter back over
brake rotor aligning adapter with mounting holes on
steering knuckle (Fig. 72).
(3) Install the two adapter mounting bolts securing
the adapter to the steering knuckle. Tighten the
mounting bolts to 169 N´m (125 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting lug nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specifica-
tion, then repeat the tightening sequence to the full
specified torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(5) Lower vehicle to the ground.
SUPPORT PLATE - DRUM
BRAKE
REMOVAL
(1) Using a brake pedal depressor, move and
secure brake pedal to a position past its first 1 inch
of travel. This will prevent brake fluid from draining
Fig. 72 Front Brake Mounting
1 - BRAKE ROTOR
2 - HUB AND BEARING
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
4 - ADAPTER MOUNTING BOLTS
5 - BRAKE CALIPER
6 - ADAPTER
7 - CLIP
5 - 48 BRAKES - BASERS
ROTORS (Continued)

out of master cylinder when brake tube is remove
from wheel cylinder.
(2) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(3) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Disconnect brake tube from rear of wheel cylin-
der. Cap open ends
(5) Remove brake drum.
(6) Remove brake shoes from brake support plate.
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
BRAKE PADS/SHOES - REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the 2 bolts attaching the wheel cylin-
der to the brake support plate.
(8) Remove the wheel cylinder from the brake sup-
port plate.
(9) Disconnect the park brake cable from the park
brake actuation lever.
(10) Using a suitable tool such as a 14 mm box
wrench (Fig. 73) or an aircraft type hose clamp, com-
press the flared legs on park brake cable retainer.
Then pull the park brake cable out of brake support
plate.
(11) Remove the rear hub and bearing. (Refer to 2
- SUSPENSION/REAR/HUB / BEARING -
REMOVAL)
(12) Remove the rear brake support plate from the
rear axle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the 4 hub and bearing to axle mounting
bolts into the mounting holes in the flange of the
rear axle.(2) Install the rear brake support plate on the 4
mounting bolts installed in the flange of the rear axle
(Fig. 74).
(3) Install the rear hub and bearing (and connect
wheel speed sensor where applicable) stopping short
of installing the brake drum. (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN-
SION/REAR/HUB / BEARING - INSTALLATION)
(4) Install the rear park brake cable into its
mounting hole in the rear brake support plate.
(5) Install the park brake cable on the park brake
actuation lever.
(6) Apply sealant such as Mopar Gasket-In-A-Tube
or equivalent around the wheel cylinder opening in
the brake support plate.
(7) Install wheel cylinder onto brake support.
Install and tighten the wheel cylinder to brake sup-
port plate attaching bolts to 8 N´m (75 in. lbs.)
torque.
(8) Install brake tube into wheel cylinder. Tighten
tube nut to a torque of 17 N´m (145 in. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install the rear brake shoes on the brake sup-
port plate. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/ME-
CHANICAL/BRAKE PADS/SHOES -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Install brake drum.
(11) Install wheel and tire.
(12) Tighten wheel stud nuts to 135 N´m (100 ft.
lbs.).
(13) Adjust drum brake shoes. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/BRAKE
PADS/SHOES - ADJUSTMENTS)
(14) Remove brake pedal depressor tool.
(15) Bleed the brake system as necessary. (Refer to
5 - BRAKES - BASE - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(16) Lower the vehicle.
Fig. 73 Removing Park Brake Cable From Brake
Support Plate
1 - PARK BRAKE CABLE
2 - CABLE RETAINER
3 - 14 mm BOX WRENCH
4 - BRAKE SUPPORT PLATE
Fig. 74 Brake Support Plate Mounted On Bearing
Attaching Bolts
1 - REAR BRAKE SUPPORT PLATE
2 - HUB/BEARING MOUNTING BOLTS
RSBRAKES - BASE5-49
SUPPORT PLATE - DRUM BRAKE (Continued)

WHEEL CYLINDERS
REMOVAL
(1) Using a brake pedal depressor, move and
secure brake pedal to a position past its first 1 inch
of travel. This will prevent brake fluid from draining
out of master cylinder when brake tube is remove
from wheel cylinder.
(2) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(3) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Disconnect brake tube from rear of wheel cylin-
der. Cap open ends
(5) Remove brake drum.
(6) Remove brake shoes from brake support plate
(Discard if contaminated).(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/BRAKE PADS/SHOES -
REMOVAL)
(7) Remove the 2 bolts attaching the wheel cylin-
der to the brake support plate.
(8) Remove the wheel cylinder from the brake sup-
port plate.
INSPECTION
With brake drums removed, inspect the wheel cyl-
inder boots for evidence of a brake fluid leak. Visu-
ally check the boots for cuts, tears, or heat cracks. If
any of these conditions exist, the wheel cylinders
should be completely cleaned, inspected and new
parts installed.
If a wheel cylinder is leaking and the brake lining
material is saturated with brake fluid, the brake
shoes must be replaced.
INSTALLATION
(1) Apply sealant such as Mopar Gasket-In-A-Tube
or equivalent around the wheel cylinder opening in
the brake support plate.
(2) Install wheel cylinder onto brake support.
Install and tighten the wheel cylinder to brake sup-
port plate attaching bolts to 8 N´m (75 in. lbs.)
torque.
(3) Install brake tube into wheel cylinder. Tighten
tube nut to a torque of 17 N´m (145 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install the rear brake shoes on the brake sup-
port plate. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/ME-
CHANICAL/BRAKE PADS/SHOES -
INSTALLATION).
(5) Install brake drum.
(6) Install wheel and tire. Install and tighten
wheel lug nuts to 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(7) Adjust drum brake shoes. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/BRAKE
PADS/SHOES - ADJUSTMENTS)
(8) Remove brake pedal depressor tool.(9) Bleed the brake system as necessary. (Refer to
5 - BRAKES - BASE - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(10) Lower vehicle.
PARKING BRAKE
DESCRIPTION
The parking brake system is operated by a foot
operated parking brake lever. The parking brake
lever is mounted on the body of the vehicle to the left
of the brake pedal (Fig. 75). It is a automatic-adjust-
ing type lever.
The vehicle has four flexible steel parking brake
cables. They are:
²Front
²Intermediate
²Left rear
²Right rear
The front parking brake cable extends from the
parking brake lever. A steel equalizer bracket con-
nects the front parking brake cable to the left rear
and intermediate cable. The intermediate cable is
connected to the right rear cable using a parking
brake cable connector.
On vehicles equipped with rear drum brakes, the
rear service brakes also act as the vehicle's parking
brakes.
Vehicles equipped with rear disc brakes use a
small duo-servo brake assembly mounted to the each
rear disc brake caliper adapter as the parking brake.
The inside of the brake rotor (hat section of drum-in-
Fig. 75 Parking Brake Lever (Pedal)
1 - PARK BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY
2 - PARK BRAKE PEDAL
3 - CARPET
4 - FRONT PARK BRAKE CABLE
5 - SEAL
6 - FLOOR PAN
5 - 50 BRAKES - BASERS