torque CHRYSLER VOYAGER 2004 Service Manual
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Page 696 of 2585

(4) Repeat Step 1, and align as necessary until
wiper stops chattering and wipes the windshield
clear.
REMOVAL
CAUTION: The driver side wiper arm must be
parked above the passenger side. Failure to do so
will result in damage to the arms, blades or system.
(1) Lift the arm cap upward.
(2) Remove the nut holding wiper arm to the wiper
pivot.
(3) Using a suitable two jaw puller, separate the
wiper arm from the wiper pivot (Fig. 1).
INSTALLATION
(1) Verify that the wiper motor and linkage are in
the park position.
(2) Place the wiper arm in position over the wiper
pivot (Fig. 2).
(3) Install the nut to hold the wiper arm to the
wiper pivot. Torque nut to 35 N´m (26 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: It is important to torque the wiper arm
nut properly to insure that the wiper arm head does
not strip and damage the arm, blade, and pivot of
both wiper arms.
(4) Push the arm cap cover down.
FRONT WIPER MOTOR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the front wiper motor from vehicle
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/
WIPER MODULE - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove four backwall bolts and four brace
nuts.
(3) Remove wiper linkage from wiper module.
(4) Disconnect wire connectors from back of wiper
motor.
(5) Remove wiper linkage from motor crank. DO
NOT remove crank from motor.
(6) Remove bolts holding wiper motor and remove
motor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place wiper module on a suitable work surface.
(2) Install wiper linkage into wiper unit.
(3) Connect wire connectors to wiper motor.
(4) Place the wiper module into engine compart-
ment and connect wiper module wire connector to
engine wire harness (Fig. 8).
(5) Install the four backwall bolts and four brace
nuts to wiper module.
(6) Operate wiper motor and verify that the wiper
motor parks when wiper switch is turned OFF.
Fig. 1 WIPER ARM REMOVAL
1 - WASHER NOZZLE
2 - HOOD
3 - COWL COVER
4 - WINDSHIELD
5 - TWO JAW PULLER
6 - ARM CAP
7 - WINDSHIELD WIPER ARM
Fig. 2 WIPER ARM ADJUSTMENT
1 - WIPER BLADES
2 - WINDSHIELD
3 - WASHER NOZZLES
4 - WIPER ARMS
RSWIPERS/WASHERS8R-9
FRONT WIPER ARMS (Continued)
Page 697 of 2585

REAR WASHER PUMP MOTOR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the engine fresh air housing inside the
engine compartment (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER HOUSING -
REMOVAL).
(3) Disconnect the washer hose at the in-line con-
nector forward of the cowl grille so that the in-line
connector remains with the washer hose from the
fresh air plenum.
(4) Disconnect the washer hose from the hose clip
located on the front fender side shield.
(5) Remove the filler tube screw.
(6) Hoist and support vehicle on hoist or jack
stands.
(7) Remove the right front wheel and tire assembly
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - REMOVAL).
(8) Disconnect the left right front wheelhouse
splash shield and move aside (Refer to 23 - BODY/
EXTERIOR/WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD -
REMOVAL).
(9) Drain washer fluid from the reservoir and into
a suitable clean container. This can be done by dis-
connecting the windshield washer hose from the
front (outboard) washer pump and allowing the
washer fluid to drain into a container through a tem-
porary jumper hose connected to the front washer
pump.
(10) Disconnect the electrical body harness connec-
tors to the washer pump motors and the fluid level
sensor. Slide the red lock on the connector to the
release position, then, depress the black tab and pull
the connector off the pump or sensor.
(11) Remove the two reservoir mounting screws.
(12) Disconnect the reservoir from the body mount
by raising the reservoir upward slightly and then
down so that the reservoir filler neck and front
washer hose pull through the opening in the front
fender side shield.
(13) Remove pump from reservoir by pulling pump
upper retention tab away from reservoir cavity and
then lifting pump up from mounting grommet. Do
not damage reservoir/pump sealing surface or punc-
ture reservoir during removal.
(14) Remove pump grommet and discard.
INSTALLATION
(1) Use new grommet when installing a new pump
assembly.
(2) Assure pump upper retention tab is pressed
into reservoir slot and that pump is rotated flat
against the reservoir and that pump connector is fac-
ing up in the fully seated position. Assure the pump
is aligned to and fully seated in the reservoir cavity.
(3) Push filler neck and front washer hose through
the opening in the front fender side shield. Connect
the reservoir to the body mount by lowering the res-
ervoir down.
(4) Install the two reservoir mounting screws.
Torque screws to 8.5 - 11.3 N´m (75 - 100 in. lbs.).
(5) Connect the electrical body harness connectors
to the washer pump motors and the fluid level sen-
sor. Slide the red lock on the connector to the closed
or locked position.
(6) Assure that washer hose is properly routed to
prevent pinching and possible inoperative washers.
(7) Connect the left right front wheelhouse splash
shield and move aside (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD - INSTALLA-
TION).
(8) Install the right front wheel and tire assembly
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - INSTALLATION).
(9) lower vehicle from hoist or jack stands.
(10) Install the filler tube screw. Torque screw to
8.5 - 11.3 N´m (75 - 100 in. lbs.).
(11) Connect the washer hose to the hose clip
located on the front fender side shield.
(12) Connect the washer hose at the in-line con-
nector forward of the cowl grille.
(13) Install the engine fresh air housing inside the
engine compartment (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER HOUSING -
INSTALLATION).
(14) Connect the battery negative cable.
(15) Verify system operation.
REAR WIPER ARM
REMOVAL
(1) Remove arm nut cap.
(2) Remove wiper arm nut.
(3) Pull wiper from pivot by rocking back and
forth.
INSTALLATION
(1) Verify that wipers are in parked position.
(2) Position arm on pivot.
(3) Install wiper arm nut and torque to 20 N´m
(175 in. lbs.).
8R - 10 WIPERS/WASHERSRS
Page 699 of 2585

When rear washer is requested by depressing and
holding down the switch, the BCM then provides a
ground for the rear washer motor. Until the switch is
released, the motor will be in a continuous wipe
mode, then return to an intermittent wipe mode.
WASHER FLUID LEVEL
SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the engine fresh air housing inside the
engine compartment (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER HOUSING -
REMOVAL).
(3) Disconnect the washer hose at the in-line con-
nector forward of the cowl grille so that the in-line
connector remains with the washer hose from the
fresh air plenum.
(4) Disconnect the washer hose from the hose clip
located on the front fender side shield.
(5) Remove the filler tube screw.
(6) Hoist and support vehicle on hoist or jack
stands.
(7) Remove the right front wheel and tire assembly
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - REMOVAL).
(8) Disconnect the left right front wheelhouse
splash shield and move aside (Refer to 23 - BODY/
EXTERIOR/WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD -
REMOVAL).
(9) Drain washer fluid from the reservoir and into
a suitable clean container. This can be done by dis-
connecting the windshield washer hose from the
front (outboard) washer pump and allowing thewasher fluid to drain into a container through a tem-
porary jumper hose connected to the front washer
pump.
(10) Disconnect the electrical body harness connec-
tors to the washer pump motors and the fluid level
sensor. Slide the red lock on the connector to the
release position, then, depress the black tab and pull
the connector off the pump or sensor.
(11) Remove the two reservoir mounting screws.
(12) Disconnect the reservoir from the body mount
by raising the reservoir upward slightly and then
down so that the reservoir filler neck and front
washer hose pull through the opening in the front
fender side shield.
(13) Remove the sensor from reservoir by using a
side foot to gently pry the sensor from the body of
the reservoir. Do not damage the reservoir/sensor
sealing surface or puncture reservoir during removal.
CAUTION: To avoid damage to the sensor, assure
the reservoir is in an upright position before remov-
ing the sensor from the reservoir. Do not rotate the
sensor during removal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Use a new grommet when installing a new sen-
sor assembly.
(2) Assure that the flat of the sensor is aligned
under the ridge of the reservoir and that the sensor
connector is facing down in the fully seated position.
This will allow for proper operation of the sensor
float switch.
(3) Push filler neck and front washer hose through
the opening in the front fender side shield. Connect
the reservoir to the body mount by lowering the res-
ervoir down.
(4) Install the two reservoir mounting screws.
Torque screws to 8.5 - 11.3 N´m (75 - 100 in. lbs.).
(5) Connect the electrical body harness connectors
to the washer pump motors and the fluid level sen-
sor. Slide the red lock on the connector to the closed
or locked position.
(6) Assure that washer hose is properly routed to
prevent pinching and possible inoperative washers.
(7) Connect the left right front wheelhouse splash
shield and move aside (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD - INSTALLA-
TION).
(8) Install the right front wheel and tire assembly
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - INSTALLATION).
(9) lower vehicle from hoist or jack stands.
(10) Install the filler tube screw. Torque screw to
8.5 - 11.3 N´m (75 - 100 in. lbs.).
(11) Connect the washer hose to the hose clip
located on the front fender side shield.
Fig. 5 REAR WIPER/WASHER SWITCH LOCATION
1 - REAR WIPER/WASHER SWITCH
2 - HVAC CONTROL UNIT
8R - 12 WIPERS/WASHERSRS
REAR WIPER/WASHER SWITCH (Continued)
Page 700 of 2585

(12) Connect the washer hose at the in-line con-
nector forward of the cowl grille.
(13) Install the engine fresh air housing inside the
engine compartment (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER HOUSING -
INSTALLATION).
(14) Connect the battery negative cable.
(15) Verify system operation.
WASHER HOSES
REMOVAL
(1) Remove washer reservoir from vehicle (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WASHER
RESERVOIR - REMOVAL).
(2) Disconnect washer hose front the reservoir cav-
ity.
(3) Disconnect the washer hose from the reservoir
pump.
(4) Remove parts as necessary to replace washer
hose (engine compartment, interior components, etc.).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install parts as necessary to after replacing
washer hose (engine compartment, interior compo-
nents, etc.).
(2) Connect the washer hose to the reservoir
pump.
(3) Connect washer hose to the reservoir cavity.
(4) Install the washer reservoir into vehicle (Refer
to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WASHER
RESERVOIR - INSTALLATION).
WASHER RESERVOIR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the engine fresh air housing inside the
engine compartment (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER HOUSING -
REMOVAL).
(3) Disconnect the washer hose at the in-line con-
nector forward of the cowl grille so that the in-line
connector remains with the washer hose from the
fresh air plenum.
(4) Disconnect the washer hose from the hose clip
located on the front fender side shield.
(5) Remove the filler tube screw.
(6) Hoist and support vehicle on hoist or jack
stands.
(7) Remove the right front wheel and tire assembly
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - REMOVAL).(8) Disconnect the left right front wheelhouse
splash shield and move aside (Refer to 23 - BODY/
EXTERIOR/WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD -
REMOVAL).
(9) Drain washer fluid from the reservoir and into
a suitable clean container. This can be done by dis-
connecting the windshield washer hose from the
front (outboard) washer pump and allowing the
washer fluid to drain into a container through a tem-
porary jumper hose connected to the front washer
pump.
(10) Disconnect the electrical body harness connec-
tors to the washer pump motors and the fluid level
sensor. Slide the red lock on the connector to the
release position, then, depress the black tab and pull
the connector off the pump or sensor.
(11) Remove the two reservoir mounting screws.
(12) Disconnect the reservoir from the body mount
by raising the reservoir upward slightly and then
down so that the reservoir filler neck and front
washer hose pull through the opening in the front
fender side shield.
INSTALLATION
(1) Push filler neck and front washer hose through
the opening in the front fender side shield. Connect
the reservoir to the body mount by lowering the res-
ervoir down.
(2) Install the two reservoir mounting screws.
Torque screws to 8.5 - 11.3 N´m (75 - 100 in. lbs.).
(3) Connect the electrical body harness connectors
to the washer pump motors and the fluid level sen-
sor. Slide the red lock on the connector to the closed
or locked position.
(4) Assure that washer is properly routed to pre-
vent pinching and possible inoperative washers.
(5) Connect the left right front wheelhouse splash
shield and move aside (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD - INSTALLA-
TION).
(6) Install the right front wheel and tire assembly
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - INSTALLATION).
(7) lower vehicle from hoist or jack stands.
(8) Install the filler tube screw. Torque screw to 8.5
- 11.3 N´m (75 - 100 in. lbs.).
(9) Connect the washer hose to the hose clip
located on the front fender side shield.
(10) Connect the washer hose at the in-line con-
nector forward of the cowl grille.
(11) Install the engine fresh air housing inside the
engine compartment (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER HOUSING -
INSTALLATION).
(12) Connect the battery negative cable.
(13) Verify system operation.
RSWIPERS/WASHERS8R-13
WASHER FLUID LEVEL SWITCH (Continued)
Page 1244 of 2585

SPLICES
SPLICE NUMBER LOCATION FIG.
S101 800mm from T/O for G102 1
S102 500mm from T/O for G102 1
S103 (2.5L) Between T/O for Battery Temperature Sensor and T/O
for C10215
S104 Near T/O for G102 1
S106 (2.4L) 40mm from T/O for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid 11
S106 (2.5L) Near T/O for Battery Temperature Sensor 15
S106 (3.3L/3.8L) Near T/O for G103 18
S107 (2.4L) In T/O for EGR Solenoid 11
S107 (2.5L) Between T/O for Engine Starter Motor and T/O for
Engine Control Module C116
S107 (3.3L/3.8L Export) Near T/O for Solenoid Pressure Switch 18
S107 (3.3L/3.8L Except
Export)Near T/O for Transmission Range Sensor 11
S108 (3.3L/3.8L) Near T/O for Speed Control Servo 18
S109 (3.3L/3.8L Export) Near T/O for Transmission Control Module N/S
S109 (3.3L/3.8L Except
Export)Near T/O for Solenoid/Pressure switch Assembly 18
S110 Near T/O to G102 1
S111 (2.4L) Near T/O for C101 11
S111 (2.5L) In T/O for Battery (-) 18
S111 (3.3L/3.8L) Near T/O for Output Speed Sensor 18
S112 Near T/O for Integrated Power Module - C3 11
S113 (2.4L) Near T/O for Park/Neutral Position Switch 11
S114 (2.4L) Near T/O for Powertrain Control Module C4 11
S114 (3.3L/3.8L) In T/O to Transmission Control Module 5
S115 (2.4L) Near T/O for Powertrain Control Module C4 11
S115 (3.3L/3.8L) In T/O to Transmission Control Module 5
S116 (2.4L) 180mm from T/O for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid 11, 13
S116 (2.5L) Near T/O for Mass Air Flow Sensor 16
S116 (3.3L/3.8L) Near T/O for G103 18
S117 (2.4L) Neat T/O for G101 and G103 11
S117 (3.3L/3.8L) Near T/O for Output Speed Sensor 18
S118 (2.4L) Near T/O for Knock Sensor 11, 13
S119 (2.5L) Near T/O for Engine Starter Motor 15
S121 (3.3L/3.8L) Near T/O for Output Speed Sensor 18
S122 (2.4L) In T/O to Engine Starter Motor 13
S122 (3.3L/3.8L) In T/O to Engine Starter Motor 18
S123 In T/O to Low Note Horn 5
S124 (2.4L) Near T/O for Fuel Injector No.2 N/S
S124 (3.3L/3.8L) Near T/O for Fuel Injector No.5 and No.6 N/S
S125 (2.4L) In T/O for Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor N/S
RS8W-91 CONNECTOR/GROUND/SPLICE LOCATION8W-91-13
CONNECTOR/GROUND/SPLICE LOCATION (Continued)
Page 1298 of 2585

ENGINE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
ENGINE 2.4L.............................. 1ENGINE 3.3/3.8L......................... 74
ENGINE 2.4L
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
ENGINE 2.4L
DESCRIPTION..........................3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION............3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE............4
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL..............6
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL
LEAK INSPECTION.....................8
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST.........9
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
TEST................................9
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE
AND OIL GALLERY PLUGS..............10
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR OF
DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS.........10
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HYDROSTATIC
LOCKED ENGINE.....................10
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-
PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS.........11
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE
GASKET SURFACE PREPARATION........11
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MEASURING
BEARING CLEARANCE USING
PLASTIGAGE........................12
REMOVAL - ENGINE ASSEMBLY...........13
INSTALLATION - ENGINE ASSEMBLY........16
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS - 2.4L ENGINE.........17
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE............20
SPECIAL TOOLS
2.4L ENGINE.........................21AIR CLEANER ELEMENT
REMOVAL.............................24
INSTALLATION.........................24
AIR CLEANER HOUSING
REMOVAL.............................24
INSTALLATION.........................24
CYLINDER HEAD
DESCRIPTION.........................24
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER HEAD
GASKET............................24
REMOVAL - CYLINDER HEAD.............25
CLEANING............................26
INSPECTION..........................26
INSTALLATION - CYLINDER HEAD..........26
CAMSHAFT OIL SEAL(S)
REMOVAL.............................27
INSTALLATION.........................28
CAMSHAFT(S)
DESCRIPTION.........................28
OPERATION...........................28
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MEASURING
CAMSHAFT END PLAY.................29
REMOVAL.............................29
CLEANING............................29
INSPECTION..........................30
INSTALLATION.........................30
CYLINDER HEAD COVER
REMOVAL.............................31
CLEANING............................31
INSPECTION..........................31
INSTALLATION.........................31
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS
DESCRIPTION.........................32
CLEANING............................32
VALVE SPRINGS & SEALS
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - CYLINDER HEAD ON.........32
RSENGINE9-1
Page 1304 of 2585

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check engine oil level. Inspect oil
pump relief valve and spring.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Thick oil 4. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating
temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter
again.
5. Excessive bearing clearance. 5. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary.
6. Excessive end play. 6. Check thrust bearing for wear on
flanges.
7. Crankshaft journal out-of-round
or worn.7. Replace crankshaft or grind
journals.
8. Loose flywheel or torque
converter.8. Tighten to correct torque.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sensor/switch. 2. Replace oil pressure sensor/
switch.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check oil pressure sensor/switch
and main bearing oil clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Install new oil filter.
5. Worn parts in oil pump. 5. Replace worn parts or pump.
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil to correct viscosity.
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 7. Remove valve and inspect, clean,
or replace.
8. Oil pump suction tube loose. 8. Remove oil pan and install new
tube or clean, if necessary.
9. Oil pump cover warped or
cracked.9. Install new oil pump.
10. Excessive bearing clearance. 10. Measure bearings for correct
clearance.
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated
gaskets.1. Replace gasket(s).
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous
metal part.2. Tighten, repair or replace the
part.
3. Misaligned or deteriorated cup or
threaded plug.3. Replace as necessary.
RSENGINE 2.4L9-7
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
Page 1306 of 2585

(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, replace compo-
nent(s) as necessary.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
(2) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Select a route free from traf-
fic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic
laws, and accelerate through the gears several times
briskly.
(3) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnor-
mal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cyl-
inder number of spark plug for future reference.(4) Remove the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay from
the PDC.
(5) Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the
compression check.
(6) Insert compression gauge adaptor Special Tool
8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in
cylinder head. Connect the 0±500 psi (Blue) pressure
transducer (Special Tool CH7059) with cable adap-
tors to the DRBIIIt. For Special Tool identification,
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIAL TOOLS).
(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gauge. Record this pressure as #1 cylin-
der pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the pressure cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
RSENGINE 2.4L9-9
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
Page 1308 of 2585

CAUTION: Squirt approximately one teaspoon of oil
into the cylinders, rotate engine to lubricate the cyl-
inder walls to prevent damage on restart.
(8) Install new spark plugs.
(9) Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
(10) Install a new oil filter.
(11) Fill engine with specified amount of approved
oil.
(12) Connect negative battery cable.
(13) Start engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN IIis used to seal
components exposed to engine oil. This material is a
specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTVis a specifically designed
black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and
sealing properties to seal components exposed to
automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKERis an anaerobic type
gasket material. The material cures in the absence of
air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It
will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The
anaerobic material is for use between two machined
surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtBED PLATE SEALANTis a unique
(green-in-color) anaerobic type gasket material that
is specially made to seal the area between the bed-plate and cylinder block without disturbing the bear-
ing clearance or alignment of these components. The
material cures slowly in the absence of air when
torqued between two metallic surfaces, and will rap-
idly cure when heat is applied.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANTis a slow drying,
permanently soft sealer. This material is recom-
mended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets
against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on
threaded and machined parts under all tempera-
tures. This material is used on engines with multi-
layer steel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This
material also will prevent corrosion. MopartGasket
Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16
oz. can w/applicator.
SEALER APPLICATION
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE GASKET
SURFACE PREPARATION
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer
steel cylinder head gaskets.
Neveruse the following to clean gasket surfaces:
²Metal scraper
²Abrasive pad or paper to clean cylinder block
and head
²High speed power tool with an abrasive pad or a
wire brush (Fig. 3)
RSENGINE 2.4L9-11
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
Page 1309 of 2585

NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require
a scratch free sealing surface.
Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces:
²Solvent or a commercially available gasket
remover
²Plastic or wood scraper (Fig. 3)
²Drill motor with 3M RolocŸ Bristle Disc (white
or yellow) (Fig. 3)
CAUTION: Excessive pressure or high RPM (beyond
the recommended speed), can damage the sealing
surfaces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is
recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80
grit) bristle disc may be used on cast iron surfaces
with care.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MEASURING
BEARING CLEARANCE USING PLASTIGAGE
Engine crankshaft bearing clearances can be deter-
mined by use of Plastigage or equivalent. The follow-
ing is the recommended procedure for the use of
Plastigage:
(1) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil.(2) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire
width of the bearing shell in the cap approximately
6.35 mm (1/4 in.) off center and away from the oil
holes (Fig. 4). (In addition, suspected areas can be
checked by placing the Plastigage in the suspected
area). Torque the bearing cap bolts of the bearing
being checked to the proper specifications.
(3) Remove the bearing cap and compare the
width of the flattened Plastigage with the metric
scale provided on the package. Locate the band clos-
est to the same width. This band shows the amount
of clearance in thousandths of a millimeter. Differ-
ences in readings between the ends indicate the
amount of taper present. Record all readings taken.
Compare clearance measurements to specs found in
engine specifications (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECI-
FICATIONS).Plastigage generally is accompa-
nied by two scales. One scale is in inches, the
other is a metric scale.
NOTE: Plastigage is available in a variety of clear-
ance ranges. Use the most appropriate range for
the specifications you are checking.
(4) Install the proper crankshaft bearings to
achieve the specified bearing clearances.
Fig. 3 Proper Tool Usage For Surface Preparation
1 - ABRASIVE PAD
2 - 3M ROLOCŸ BRISTLE DISC
3 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
Fig. 4 Plastigage Placed in Lower ShellÐTypical
1 - PLASTIGAGE
9 - 12 ENGINE 2.4LRS
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)