boot DODGE NEON 1999 Service Owner's Manual

(5) Install new master cylinder housing to brake
fluid reservoir sealing grommets (Fig. 166) in master
cylinder housing.
(6) Lubricate reservoir mounting area with fresh
clean brake fluid. Place reservoir in position over
grommets. Seat reservoir into grommets using a
rocking motion while firmly pressing down on fluid
reservoir.
(7) Be sure reservoir is positioned properly.
(8) Make sure bottom of reservoir touches top of
grommet.
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
The master cylinder or brake fluid reservoir does
not have to be removed from vehicle for replacement
of the brake fluid level sensor.
(1) Remove wiring harness connector from brake
fluid reservoir level sensor (Fig. 167).
(2) Compress retaining tabs (Fig. 168) on end of
brake fluid level switch.(3) While compressing retaining tabs, grasp oppo-
site end of brake fluid level switch and pull it out of
master cylinder brake fluid reservoir (Fig. 169).
(4) Correctly align the replacement level switch
with its mounting hole in the brake fluid reservoir.
Push switch into fluid reservoir until retaining tabs
are fully expanded on opposite side of fluid reservoir
(Fig. 168).
(5) Install the wiring harness connector onto the
brake fluid level switch.
FRONT AND REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Check for brake fluid leaks in and around dust
boot area and inboard brake pad, and for any rup-
tures, brittleness or damage to the piston dust boot.
If the dust boot is damaged, or a fluid leak is visible,
disassemble caliper assembly and install a new pis-
ton seal and dust boot, and piston if scored. Refer to
Fig. 166 Removing Fluid Reservoir From Master
Cylinder
Fig. 167 Master Cylinder Fluid Level Sensor
Fig. 168 Brake Fluid Level Switch Retaining Tabs
Fig. 169 Removing/Installing Fluid Reservoir Level
Switch
5 - 58 BRAKESPL
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)

Caliper Disassembly And Re-Assembly Procedures in
Disc Brake Caliper Service in this section of the ser-
vice manual.
Check the guide pin dust boots to determine if they
are in good condition. Replace if they are damaged,
dry, or found to be brittle. Refer to Guide Pin Bush-
ing Service in Disc Brake Caliper Service in this sec-
tion of the service manual.
CALIPER GUIDE PIN BUSHING SERVICE
The double pin caliper uses a sealed for life bush-
ing and sleeve assembly. If required this assembly
can be serviced using the following procedure.
REMOVING CALIPER GUIDE PIN BUSHINGS
(1) Remove caliper from brake rotor (See Brake
Shoe Removal). Hang caliper assembly on a wire
hook away from the brake rotor.
(2) Push out and then pull the steel sleeve from
the inside of the bushing using your fingers as shown
in (Fig. 170).
(3) Using your fingers, collapse one side of the
bushing. Then pull on the opposite side to remove
the bushing from the brake caliper housing (Fig.
171).
INSTALLING CALIPER GUIDE PIN BUSHINGS
(1) Fold the bushing in half lengthwise at the solid
middle section of the bushing (Fig. 172).
(2) Insert the folded bushing into the caliper hous-
ing (Fig. 173).Do not use a sharp object to per-
form this step due to possible damage to the
bushing.(3) Unfold the bushing using your fingers or a
wooden dowel until the bushing is fully seated into
the caliper housing. Flanges should be seated evenly
on both sides of the bushing hole (Fig. 174).
(4) Lubricate the inside surfaces of the bushing
using Mopar, Silicone Dielectric Compound or an
equivalent.
(5) Install guide pin sleeve into one end of bushing
until seal area of bushing is past seal groove in
sleeve (Fig. 175).
(6) Holding convoluted boot end of bushing with
one hand, push steel sleeve bushing through boot
until one end of bushing is fully seated into seal
groove on one end of sleeve (Fig. 175).
(7) Holding sleeve in place, work other end of
bushing over end of sleeve and into the seal grove on
Fig. 170 Removing Inner Sleeve From Bushing
Fig. 171 Removing Bushing From Caliper
Fig. 172 Folded Caliper Guide Pin Bushing
PLBRAKES 5 - 59
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)

from rotor, so hydraulic fluid cannot get on rotor.
Place a small piece of wood between the piston and
caliper fingers.
(2)Carefullydepress brake pedal to hydraulically
push piston out of bore. Then apply and hold down
the brake pedal to any position beyond the first inch
of pedal travel. This will prevent loss of brake fluid
from the master cylinder.
(3) If both front caliper pistons are to be removed,
disconnect brake tube at flexible brake hose at frame
rail. Plug brake tube and remove piston from oppo-
site caliper using the same process as above for the
first piston removal.
(4) Disconnect the brake fluid flex hose from the
caliper assembly.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when clamp-
ing caliper in vise. Excessive vise pressure will
cause bore distortion and binding of piston.
(5) To disassemble caliper, mount in a vise
equipped with protective jaws.
(6) Remove guide pin sleeves and guide pin bush-
ings. See Removing Guide Pin Bushings in the cali-
per disassembly section of this manual.
(7) Remove the piston dust boot from the caliper
and discard (Fig. 177).
(8) Using a soft tool, such as a plastic trim stick,
work piston seal out of its groove in caliper piston
bore (Fig. 178). Discard old seal.Do not use a
screw driver or other metal tool for this opera-
tion, because of the possibility of scratching
piston bore or burring edges of seal groove.(9) Clean all parts using alcohol or a suitable sol-
vent and wipe dryusing only a lint free cloth.No
lint residue can remain in caliper bore. Clean out all
drilled passages and bores.Whenever a caliper
has been disassembled, a new boot and seal
must be installed at assembly.
(10) Inspect the piston bore for scoring or pitting.
Bores that show light scratches or corrosion can usu-
ally be cleared of the light scratches or corrosion
using crocus cloth. Bores that have deep scratches or
scoring should be honed. Use Caliper Hone, Special
Tool C-4095, or equivalent providing the diameter of
the bore is not increased more than 0.0254 mm
(0.001 inch) (Fig. 179).
(11) If the bore does not clean up within this spec-
ification, a new caliper housing should be installed.
Install a new piston if the old one is pitted or scored.
NOTE: When using Caliper Honing Tool, Special
Tool C-4095, coat the stones and bore with brake
fluid. After honing the bore, carefully clean the seal
and boot grooves with a stiff non-metallic rotary
brush.
NOTE: Use extreme care in cleaning the caliper
after honing. Remove all dirt and grit by flushing
the caliper with brake fluid; wipe dry with a clean,
lint free cloth and then clean a second time.
CAUTION: When inspecting caliper piston, do not
use anything but solvents to clean piston surface. If
surface of piston cannot be cleaned using only sol-
vents, piston must be replaced.
Fig. 177 Removing Caliper/Piston Dust Boot
Fig. 178 Removing Piston Seal From Caliper
PLBRAKES 5 - 61
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)

(12) Inspect caliper piston for pitting, scratches, or
any physical damage. Replace piston if there is evi-
dence of scratches, pitting or physical damage.
CALIPER ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Excessive vise pressure will cause bore
distortion and binding of piston.
(1) Clamp caliper in a vise (with protective caps
installed on jaws of vise).
(2) Dip new piston seal in clean brake fluid and
install in the groove of the caliper bore. Seal should
be positioned at one area in groove and gently
worked around the groove (Fig. 180), using only your
fingers until properly seated.NEVER USE AN OLD
PISTON SEAL.Be sure that fingers are clean and
seal is not twisted or rolled (Fig. 180).
(3) Coat new piston boot with clean brake fluid
leaving a generous amount inside boot.
(4) Position dust boot over piston after coating
with brake fluid.
CAUTION: Force must be applied to the piston uni-
formly to avoid cocking and binding of the piston in
the bore of the caliper.
(5) Install piston into caliper bore pushing it past
the piston seal until it bottoms in the caliper bore
(Fig. 181).
(6) Position dust boot into the counterbore of the
caliper assembly piston bore.
(7) Using a hammer and Installer Piston Caliper
Boot, Special Tool C-4689 and Handle, Special ToolC-4171, drive boot into counterbore of the caliper
(Fig. 182).
(8) Install guide pin sleeves and bushings. See
Install Guide Pin Bushings section in the caliper dis-
assembly section of this manual.
(9) Install brake pads. See Installing Brake Pads
in the Brake Pad Service Procedures section of this
manual.
(10) Before installing caliper assembly on vehicle,
inspect brake rotor. If any conditions as described in
Checking Brake Rotor for Runout and Thickness are
present the rotor, must be replaced or refaced. If the
rotor does not require any servicing, install caliper
assembly.
(11) Install brake hose onto caliper using banjo
bolt. Torque the brake hose to caliper assembly banjo
bolt to 33 N´m (24 ft. lbs.).New seal washers
Fig. 179 Honing Brake Caliper Piston Bore
Fig. 180 Installing New Piston Seal In Caliper
Fig. 181 Installing Piston Into Caliper Bore
5 - 62 BRAKESPL
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)

MUST always be used when installing brake
hose to caliper.
(12) Bleed the brake system (see Bleeding Brake
System).
WHEEL CYLINDER (REAR DRUM BRAKE)
DISASSEMBLE
To disassemble the wheel cylinders, proceed as fol-
lows:
(1) Pry boots away from cylinders and remove (Fig.
183).
(2) PressINon one piston to force out opposite
piston, cup and spring (Fig. 183). Then using a soft
tool such as a dowel rod, press out the cup and piston
that remain in the wheel cylinder.
(3) Wash wheel cylinder, pistons, and spring (Fig.
183) in clean brake fluid or alcohol;(DO NOT USE
ANY PETROLEUM BASE SOLVENTS)clean thor-
oughly and blow dry with compressed air. Inspect cyl-
inder bore and piston for scoring and pitting. (Do not
use a rag as lint from the rag will stick to bore sur-
faces.)
(4) Wheel cylinder bores and pistons that are
badly scored or pitted should be replaced. Cylinder
walls that have light scratches, or show signs of cor-
rosion, can usually be cleaned with crocus cloth,
using a circular motion. Black stains on the cylinder
walls are caused by piston cups and will not impair
operation of cylinder.
ASSEMBLE
Before assembling the pistons and new cups in the
wheel cylinders, dip them in clean brake fluid. If theboots are deteriorated, cracked or do not fit tightly on
the pistons or the cylinder casting, install new boots.
(1) Coat cylinder bore with clean brake fluid.
(2) Lightly coat the sealing lip and outer surfaces
of the wheel cylinder cups with Mopar Protect-A-Cup
Lubricant.
(3) Install expansion spring with cup expanders in
cylinder. Install cups in each end of cylinder with
open end of cups facing each other (Fig. 183).
(4) Install piston in each end of cylinder having
the flat face of each piston contacting the flat face of
each cup, already installed (Fig. 183).
(5) Coat the interior surfaces of the push on boots
(Fig. 183) with the Mopar Protect-A-Cup Lubricant
(6) Install a boot over each end of cylinder (Fig.
183).Be careful not to damage boot during
installation.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
FRONT DISC BRAKES
BRAKE PAD LINING WEAR
If a visual inspection does not adequately deter-
mine the condition of the lining, a physical check will
be necessary. To check the amount of lining wear,
remove the wheel and tire assemblies, and the cali-
pers.
Remove the front disc brake shoes. Refer to Front
Disc Brake Shoe Removal in the Removal And Instal-
lation section in this group of the service manual for
the required procedure.
The combined brake shoe and lining material
thickness should be measured at the thinnest part of
the assembly.
When a set of brake shoes are worn to a total
thickness of approximately 7.95 mm (5/16 inch) they
should be replaced.
Replacebothbrake shoe assemblies (inboard and
outboard). It is necessary thatbothfront wheel sets
be replaced whenever brake shoe assemblies on
either side are replaced.
If the brake shoe assemblies do not require
replacement, reinstall, the assemblies making sure
each brake shoe is returned to the original position.
Refer to Front Disc Brake Shoe Installation in the
Removal And Installation section in this group of the
service manual for the required procedure.
CALIPER INSPECTION
Check for brake fluid leaks in and around boot
area and inboard lining, and for any ruptures, brit-
tleness or damage to the piston dust boot. If the boot
Fig. 182 Installing Dust Boot In Caliper Counterbore
PLBRAKES 5 - 63
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)

is damaged, or a fluid leak is visible, disassemble cal-
iper assembly and install a new seal and boot, and
piston if scored. Refer to Front Disc Brake Caliper in
the Disassembly And Assembly Section in this group
of the service manual.
Check the guide pin dust boots to determine if they
are in good condition. Replace if they are damaged,
dry, or found to be brittle. Refer to Front Disc Brake
Caliper in the Disassembly And Assembly Section in
this group of the service manual.
REAR DISC BRAKES
BRAKE PAD LINING WEAR
If a visual inspection does not adequately deter-
mine the condition of the lining, a physical check will
be necessary. To check the amount of lining wear,
remove the wheel and tire assemblies, and the cali-
pers.
Remove the rear disc brake shoes. Refer to Rear
Disc Brake Shoe Removal in the Removal And Instal-
lation section in this group of the service manual for
the required procedure.
The combined brake shoe and lining material
thickness should be measured at the thinnest part of
the assembly.
When a set of brake shoes are worn to a total
thickness of approximately 7.0 mm (9/32 inch) they
should be replaced.
Replacebothbrake shoe assemblies (inboard and
outboard). It is necessary thatbothrear wheel sets
be replaced whenever brake shoe assemblies on
either side are replaced.
If the brake shoe assemblies do not require
replacement, reinstall, the assemblies making sureeach brake shoe is returned to the original position.
Refer to Rear Disc Brake Shoe Installation in the
Removal And Installation section in this group of the
service manual for the required procedure.
CALIPER INSPECTION
Check for brake fluid leaks in and around boot
area and inboard lining, and for any ruptures, brit-
tleness or damage to the piston dust boot. If the boot
is damaged, or a fluid leak is visible, disassemble cal-
iper assembly and install a new seal and boot, and
piston if scored. Refer to Rear Disc Brake Caliper in
the Disassembly And Assembly Section in this group
of the service manual.
Check the guide pin dust boots to determine if they
are in good condition. Replace if they are damaged,
dry, or found to be brittle. Refer to Rear Disc Brake
Caliper in the Disassembly And Assembly Section in
this group of the service manual.
REAR DRUM BRAKES
Rear brake shoe lining should show contact across
entire width of the lining and also from the heel to
the toe of the lining, otherwise replace.
Brake shoes with lack of contact at the toe or heel
of the brake shoe linng may be improperly ground.
Clean and inspect the brake support plate and
adjusting screws. Apply a thin coat of Mopar Multi-
Purpose Lubricant or equivalent to the threads of the
self adjuster (Fig. 184). Replace adjusting screw if
corroded.
Fig. 183 Rear Wheel Cylinder (Exploded View)
5 - 64 BRAKESPL
CLEANING AND INSPECTION (Continued)

If old brake shoe return or hold down springs have
overheated or are damaged, replace. Overheating
indications are paint discoloration or distorted end
coils.
REAR DRUM BRAKE WHEEL CYLINDER
With brake drums removed, inspect the wheel cyl-
inder boots for evidence of a brake fluid leak. Visu-
ally check the boots for cuts, tears, or heat cracks. If
any of these conditions exist, the wheel cylinders
should be completely cleaned, inspected and new
parts installed.
If a wheel cylinder is leaking and the brake lining
material is saturated with brake fluid, the brake
shoes must be replaced.
CHASSIS TUBES AND HOSES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front and rear
brakes. Inspection of brake hoses should be per-
formed whenever the brake system is serviced and
every 7,500 miles or 12 months, whichever comes
first (every engine oil change). Inspect hydraulic
brake hoses for severe surface cracking, scuffing,
worn spots or physical damage. If the fabric casing of
the rubber hose becomes exposed due to cracks or
abrasions in the rubber hose cover, the hose should
be replaced immediately. Eventual deterioration of
the hose can take place with possible burst failure.
Faulty installation can cause twisting, resulting in
wheel, tire, or chassis interference.
The steel brake tubing should be inspected periodi-
cally for evidence of corrosion, physical damage or con-
tact with moving or hot components of the vehicle.
REAR WHEEL HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
The rear hub and bearing assembly is designed for
the life of the vehicle and should require no mainte-
nance. The following procedure may be used for eval-
uation of bearing condition.
With wheel and brake drum removed, rotate
flanged outer ring of hub. Excessive roughness, lat-
eral play or resistance to rotation may indicate dirt
intrusion or bearing failure. If the rear wheel bear-
ings exhibit these conditions during inspection, the
hub and bearing assembly should be replaced.Damaged bearing seals and resulting excessive
grease loss may also require bearing replacement.
Moderate grease loss from bearing is considered nor-
mal and should not require replacement of the hub
and bearing assembly.
ADJUSTMENTS
STOP LAMP SWITCH
(1) Remove stop lamp switch from its bracket by
rotating it approximately 30É in a counter-clockwise
direction.
(2) Disconnect wiring harness connector from stop
lamp switch.
(3) Hold stop lamp switch firmly in one hand.
Then using other hand, pull outward on the plunger
of the stop lamp switch until it has ratcheted out to
its fully extended position.
(4) Install the stop lamp switch into the bracket
using the following procedure. Depress the brake
pedal as far down as possible. Then while keeping
the brake pedal depressed, install the stop lamp
switch into the bracket by aligning index key on
switch with slot at top of square hole in mounting
bracket. When switch is fully installed in the square
hole of the bracket, rotate switch clockwise approxi-
mately 30É to lock the switch into the bracket.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when pulling
back on brake pedal to adjust the stop lamp switch.
If too much force is used, damage to the vacuum
booster, stop lamp switch or striker (Fig. 185) can
result.
(5) Connect the wiring harness connector to the
stop lamp switch.
(6) Gently pull back on brake pedal until the pedal
stops moving. This will cause the switch plunger
(Fig. 185) to ratchet backward to the correct position.
REAR DRUM BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Normally, self adjusting drum brakes will
not require manual brake shoe adjustment.
Although in the event of a brake reline it is advis-
able to make the initial adjustment manually to
speed up the adjusting time.
(1) Raise the vehicle so all wheels are free to turn.
See Hoisting Recommendations in the Lubrication
And Maintenance Section at the front of this service
manual.
(2) Remove rear brake adjusting hole rubber plug
(Fig. 186) from the rear brake shoe support plate.
Fig. 184 Adjuster Screw And Lever (Typical)
PLBRAKES 5 - 65
CLEANING AND INSPECTION (Continued)

DESCRIPTION TORQUE
MASTER CYLINDER:
To Vacuum Booster Mounting Nut.28 N´m (250 in. lbs.)
BRAKE BOOSTER:
To Dash Panel Mounting Nuts . .28 N´m (250 in. lbs.)
REAR WHEEL CYLINDER:
To Support Plate Mounting Bolts.13 N´m (115 in. lbs.)
Bleeder Screw...............10N´m(80in.lbs.)
BRAKE SUPPORT PLATE:
To Axle Mounting Bolts.........75N´m(55ft.lbs.)
REAR DISC BRAKE ADAPTER:
To Axle Mounting Bolts.........75N´m(55ft.lbs.)
DISC BRAKE CALIPER:
Guide Pin Bolts.............22N´m(192 in. lbs.)
Bleeder Screw..............15N´m(125 in. lbs.)
ABS HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT:
To Mounting Bracket Bolts.....28N´m(250 in. lbs.)
Bracket To Frame Rail Mounting Bolt (Top) . .18 N´m
(160 in. lbs.)
Bracket To Frame Rail Mounting Bolts (Side).22 N´m
(200 in. lbs.)
PARKING BRAKE:
Lever Mounting Nuts.........28N´m(250 in. lbs.)
REAR HUB AND BEARING:
To Knuckle Retaining Nut.....217 N´m (160 ft. lbs.)
WHEEL:
Stud Lug Nut........109±150 N´m (80±110 ft. lbs.)
SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKE SYSTEM
Adapters, Brake Pressure Test 6805
Gauge Set C-4007-A
Handle, Universal C-4171
Installer, Dust Boot C-4689
Dial Indicator C-3339
Tubes, Master Cylinder Bleeding 6802
5 - 68 BRAKESPL
SPECIFICATIONS (Continued)

WARNING: DO NOT CHARGE A BATTERY THAT
HAS EXCESSIVELY LOW ELECTROLYTE LEVEL.
BATTERY MAY SPARK INTERNALLY AND
EXPLODE. EXPLOSIVE GASES FORM OVER THE
BATTERY. DO NOT SMOKE, USE FLAME, OR CRE-
ATE SPARKS NEAR BATTERY. DO NOT ASSIST
BOOST OR CHARGE A FROZEN BATTERY. BAT-
TERY CASING MAY FRACTURE. BATTERY ACID IS
POISON, AND MAY CAUSE SEVERE BURNS. BAT-
TERIES CONTAIN SULFURIC ACID. AVOID CON-
TACT WITH SKIN, EYES, OR CLOTHING. IN THE
EVENT OF CONTACT, FLUSH WITH WATER AND
CALL PHYSICIAN IMMEDIATELY. KEEP OUT OF
REACH OF CHILDREN.
CAUTION: Disconnect the battery NEGATIVE cable
first, before charging battery to avoid damage to
electrical systems. Lift the red battery boot cover
from the positive cable clamp. Do not exceed 16.0
volts while charging battery. Refer to the instruc-
tions supplied with charging equipment
Battery electrolyte may bubble inside of battery
case while being charged properly. If the electrolyte
boils violently, or is discharged from the vent holes
while charging, immediately reduce charging rate or
turn off charger. Evaluate battery condition. Battery
damage may occur if charging is excessive.
Some battery chargers are equipped with polarity
sensing devices to protect the charger or battery from
being damaged if improperly connected. If the bat-
tery state of charge is too low for the polarity sensor
to detect, the sensor must be bypassed for charger to
operate. Refer to operating instructions provided
with battery charger being used.
CAUTION: Charge battery until test indicator
appears green. Do not overcharge.
It may be necessary to jiggle the battery or vehicle
to bring the green dot in the test indicator into view.
After the battery has been charged to 12.4 volts or
greater, perform a load test to determine cranking
capacity. Refer to Battery Load Test in this Group. If
the battery passes the load test, the battery is OK to
use. If battery will not pass the load test, it must be
replaced. Properly clean and inspect battery hold
downs, tray, terminals, cables, posts, and top before
completing service.
CHARGING COMPLETELY DISCHARGED BATTERY
The following procedure should be used to recharge
a completely discharged battery. Unless procedure is
properly followed, a good battery may be needlessly
replaced. Refer to Battery Charging Rate Table for
proper charging time.(1) Measure the voltage at battery posts with a
voltmeter accurate to 1/10 volt (Fig. 11). If below 10
volts, charge current will be low, and it could take
some time before it accepts a current in excess of a
few milliamperes. Such low current may not be
detectable on amp meters built into many chargers.
(2) Connect charger leads. Some chargers feature
polarity protection circuitry that prevents operation
unless charger is connected to battery posts correctly.
A completely discharged battery may not have
enough voltage to activate this circuitry. This may
happen even though the leads are connected properly.
(3) Battery chargers vary in the amount of voltage
and current they provide. For the time required for
the battery to accept measurable charger current at
various voltages, refer to the Battery Charging Rate
table. If charge current is still not measurable after
charging times, the battery should be replaced. If
charge current is measurable during charging time,
the battery may be good, and charging should be
completed in the normal manner.
VISUAL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not allow baking soda solution to
enter vent holes, as damage to battery can result.
(1) Clean top of battery with a solution of warm
water and baking soda.
(2) Apply soda solution with a bristle brush and
allow to soak until acid deposits loosen (Fig. 12).
BATTERY CHARGING RATE
Voltage Hours
16.0 volts maximum up to 4 hours
14.0 to 15.9 volts up to 8 hours
13.9 volts or less up to 16 hours
Fig. 11 Voltmeter Accurate to 1/10 Volt (Connected)
PLBATTERY 8A - 7
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

The major difference between the two engines is
component location which affects the ignition system
service procedures. There are various sensors that
are in different locations due to a different cylinder
head and intake manifold.
The 2.0L engines use a fixed ignition timing sys-
tem. The distributorless electronic ignition system is
referred to as the Direct Ignition System (DIS).
Basic ignition timing is not adjustable.The
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) determines spark
advance. The system's three main components are
the coil pack, crankshaft position sensor, and cam-
shaft position sensor.
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) controls the
ignition system (Fig. 1). The PCM supplies battery
voltage to the ignition coil through the Auto Shut-
down (ASD) Relay. The PCM also controls the ground
circuit for the ignition coil. By switching the ground
path for the coil on and off, the PCM adjusts ignition
timing to meet changing engine operating conditions.
During the crank-start period the PCM maintains
spark advance at 9É BTDC. During engine operation
the following inputs determine the amount of spark
advance provided by the PCM.
²Intake air temperature
²Coolant temperature
²Engine RPM
²Intake manifold vacuum
²Knock sensor
The PCM also regulates the fuel injection system.
Refer to the Fuel Injection sections of Group 14.
SPARK PLUGS
The 2.0L engines uses resistor spark plugs. For
spark plug identification and specifications, Refer to
the Specifications section at the end of this group.Remove the spark plugs and examine them for
burned electrodes and fouled, cracked or broken por-
celain insulators. Keep plugs arranged in the order
in which they were removed from the engine. An iso-
lated plug displaying an abnormal condition indicates
that a problem exists in the corresponding cylinder.
Replace spark plugs at the intervals recommended in
Group 0.
Spark plugs that have low mileage may be cleaned
and reused if not otherwise defective. Refer to the
Spark Plug Condition section of this group. After
cleaning, file the center electrode flat with a small
point file or jewelers file. Adjust the gap between the
electrodes (Fig. 2) to the dimensions specified in the
chart at the end of this section.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion and damage.
Tighten spark plugs to 28 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
SPARK PLUG CABLES
Spark plug cables are sometimes referred to as sec-
ondary ignition wires. The wires transfer electrical
current from the coil pack to individual spark plugs
at each cylinder. The resistor type, nonmetallic spark
plug cables provide suppression of radio frequency
emissions from the ignition system.
Check the spark plug cable connections for good
contact at the coil and spark plugs. Terminals should
be fully seated. The nipples and spark plug covers
should be in good condition. Nipples should fit tightly
on the coil. Spark plug boot should completely cover
the spark plug hole in the cylinder head cover. Install
the boot until the terminal snaps over the spark
plug. A snap must be felt to ensure the spark plug
cable terminal engaged the spark plug.
Loose cable connections will corrode, increase resis-
tance and permit water to enter the coil towers.
These conditions can cause ignition malfunction.
Fig. 1 Powertrain Control Module
Fig. 2 Setting Spark Plug Electrode Gap
8D - 2 IGNITION SYSTEMPL
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)