DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Workshop Manual

FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL.............................23
INSTALLATION.........................24
BRAKE JUNCTION BLOCK
REMOVAL.............................24
INSTALLATION.........................24
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION.........................24
OPERATION...........................25
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER...........25
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER
CYLINDER BLEEDING..................26
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - ALL EXCEPT HYDROBOOST . . . 26
REMOVAL - HYDROBOOST.............26
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - ALL EXCEPT
HYDROBOOST.......................27
INSTALLATION - HYDROBOOST..........27
PEDAL
DESCRIPTION.........................28
OPERATION...........................28
REMOVAL.............................28
INSTALLATION.........................28
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION.........................29
OPERATION...........................29
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER...........................30
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BLEEDING......31
REMOVAL.............................31
INSTALLATION.........................32
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DISC BRAKE ROTOR..................32
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT....................33
REMOVAL - REAR.....................34REMOVAL - REAR DUAL WHEELS........34
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT................34
INSTALLATION - REAR.................34
INSTALLATION - REAR DUAL WHEELS....35
SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL.............................35
INSTALLATION.........................36
PARKING BRAKE
DESCRIPTION.........................36
OPERATION...........................36
CABLES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE..............................36
REMOVAL - REAR PARK BRAKE CABLE . . . 37
REMOVAL - RIGHT REAR CABLE.........37
REMOVAL - LEFT REAR CABLE..........38
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE..............................38
INSTALLATION - REAR PARK BRAKE
CABLE..............................38
INSTALLATION - RIGHT REAR CABLE.....38
INSTALLATION - LEFT REAR CABLE......39
SHOES
REMOVAL.............................39
CLEANING - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE....39
INSPECTION - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE . . 39
INSTALLATION.........................40
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - PARKING BRAKE SHOES . . 41
ADJUSTMENT - WITH ADJUSTING TOOL . . . 42
PEDAL
REMOVAL.............................42
INSTALLATION.........................42
CABLE TENSIONER
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT........................43
RELEASE HANDLE
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................44
BRAKES - BASE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake pads,
calipers, brake drum in hat rotor in the rear, rotors,
brake lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking
brake components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
5 - 2 BRAKES - BASEDR

normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak or
fluid contamination. The leak point could be at a
brake line, fitting, hose, or caliper/wheel cylinder. If
leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or around
the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action isto inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve or a
vacuum hose could also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers were overhauled, open all caliper
bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid
starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reser-
voir once more before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
NOTE: Bleed procedure should be in this order (1)
Right rear (2) Left rear (3) Right front (4) Left front.(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
(5) Before moving the vehicle verify the pedal is
firm and not mushy.
(6) Top off the brake fluid and install the reservoir
cap.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system.
SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKES
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
INSTALLER, BRAKE CALIPER DUST BOOT C-4340
INSTALLER, BRAKE CALIPER DUST BOOT
C-3716-A
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

ADJUSTABLE PEDAL SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the lower drivers side bezel (Refer to
23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/INSTRUMENT
PANEL DR SIDE BEZEL - REMOVAL).
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
adjustable pedal switch.
(3) Remove the switch from the lower drivers side
bezel by squeezing the retaining clips together and
pushing the switch outwards (Fig. 2).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the switch to the lower drivers side
bezel by pushing the switch inwards seating the
retaining clips to the lower drivers side bezel.
(2) Reconnect the electrical connector to the
adjustable pedal switch.
(3) Install the lower drivers side bezel (Fig. 2)
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/IN-
STRUMENT PANEL DR SIDE BEZEL - INSTALLA-
TION).
ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
DESCRIPTION
The Adjustable Pedals System (APS) is designed to
enable the fore and aft repositioning of the brake and
accelerator pedals. This results in improved ergonom-
ics in relation to the steering wheel for taller and
shorter drivers. Being able to adjust the pedal posi-
tions also allows the driver to set steering wheel tilt
and seat position to the most comfortable position.
The position of the brake and accelerator pedals can
be adjusted without compromising safety or comfort
in actuating the pedals.
Change of pedal position is accomplished by means
of a motor driven screw. Operating the adjustable
pedal switch activates the pedal drive motor (Fig. 3).
The pedal drive motor turns a screw that changes
the position of the brake and accelerator pedals. The
pedal can be moved rearward (closer to the driver) or
forward (away from driver). The brake pedal is
moved on its drive screw to a position where the
driver feels most comfortable.
The accelerator pedal is moved at the same time
and the same distance as the brake pedal.
Neither the pedal drive motor (Fig. 3) nor drive
mechanism are subject to the mechanical stress of
brake or accelerator application.
²SYSTEM FEATURES:
²Range of Adjustment: The pedals may be
adjusted up to 3 in. (75 mm)
²Pedal Adjustment Speed: 0.5 in./sec (12.5
mm/sec)
HANDLE C-4171
CAP, MASTER CYLINDER PRESSURE BLEED 6921
GAUGE, BRAKE SAFE-SET C-3919
Fig. 2 LOWER DRIVERS SIDE BEZEL
1 - SCREWS (2)
2 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL SWITCH (if equipped)
3 - PEDAL SWITCH ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
4 - BEZEL
5 - 6 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

²Pedal Adjustment Inhibitors: Pedal adjust-
ment is inhibited when the vehicle is in reverse or
when cruise control is activated.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Remove the kneeblocker (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN
OPENING COVER - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the brake light switch and discard
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING -
EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL).
(4) Disconnect the adjustable pedal cables from the
brake and accelerator pedalsAlso clutch pedal if
equipped with a manual transmission.
(5) Disconnect the electrical connector.
(6) Unclip the cable fasteners to the support.
(7) Remove the one mounting bolt for the adjust-
able pedal motor (Fig. 4).
(8) Remove the adjustable pedal motor with the
cables.
NOTE: Adjustable pedal cables are not serviceable.
If they need service the adjustable pedal motor with
the cables must be installed.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Adjustable pedal cables are not serviceable.
If they need service the adjustable pedal motor with
the cables must be installed.
(1) Install the adjustable pedal motor with the
cables.
(2) Install the one mounting bolt for the adjustable
pedal motor (Fig. 4).
(3) Clip the cable fasteners to the support.
(4) Reconnect the electrical connector.
(5) Reconnect the adjustable pedal cables to the
brake and accelerator pedalsAlso clutch pedal if
equipped with a manual transmission.
(6) Install the new brake light switch (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL).
(7) Install the kneeblocker (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
STRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN OPEN-
ING COVER - INSTALLATION).
(8) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
(9) Check for proper operation of the pedals.
Fig. 3 ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
1 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
2 - CABLES
3 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
Fig. 4 ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
1 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 7
ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR (Continued)

HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE CHART
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Brake Booster
Mounting Nuts28 21 250
Master Cylinder
Mounting Nuts18 Ð 160
Caliper
Mounting Pins
Front32 24 Ð
Caliper
Mounting Pins
Rear15 11 Ð
Caliper
Adapter Mounting Bolts
Front
LD176 130 Ð
Caliper
Adapter Mounting Bolts
Front
HD339 250 Ð
Caliper
Adapter Mounting Bolts
Rear
LD135 100 Ð
Caliper
Adapter Mounting Bolts
Rear
HD197 145 Ð
Junction Block
Bolts To Frame10 7.5 Ð
Brake Pedal Assembly
Bracket
Nuts28 21 Ð
Support Plate
Mounting Bolts/Nuts64 47 Ð
Brake Line Fittings
Master Cylinder19 14 170
Brake Line Fittings
Junction Block19 14 170
Caliper
Brake Line Banjo Bolt
Front27 20 245
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEDR

DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Caliper
Brake Line Banjo Bolt
Rear27 20 245
Brake Hose
Front Bolts To Frame10 7.5 Ð
Brake Hose
Front Fitting19 14 250
Brake Hose
Rear Fitting19 14 250
Parking Brake Pedal
Assembly19 14 250
Rotor to Hub Bolt
Rear128 95 Ð
Hub/Bearing
Bolts
LD163 120 Ð
Hub/Bearing
Bolts
HD176 130 Ð
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 9
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

BASE BRAKE
SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Front Disc Brake Caliper
TypeDual Piston Sliding
Rear Disc Brake Caliper
Type
LDSingle Piston Sliding
Rear Disc Brake Caliper
Type
HDDual Piston Sliding
Front Disc Brake Caliper
LD54 mm (2.12 in.)
Front Disc Brake Caliper
HD56 mm (2.20 in.)
Front Disc Brake Rotor
LD336ý28 mm (13.2ý1.1
in.)
Front Disc Brake Rotor
HD353ý35.5 mm
(13.89ý1.397 in.)
Front/Rear Disc Brake
Rotor
Max. Runout
LD0.127 mm (0.005 in.)
Front/Rear Disc Brake
Rotor
Max. Runout
HD
SRW0.131 mm (0.005 in.)
Rear Disc Brake Rotor
Max. Runout
HD
DRW0.328 mm (0.012 in.)
Front/Rear Disc Brake
Rotor
Max. Thickness Variation
LD0.015 mm (0.0059 in.)
Front/Rear Disc Brake
Rotor
Max. Thickness Variation
HD0.013 mm (0.0005 in.)
Loose Rotor
Minimum Front Rotor
Thickness
LD26.4 mm (1.039 in.)
Minimum Front Rotor
Thickness
HD34 mm (1.33 in.)
Mininium Rear Rotor
Thickness
LD&HD28.39 mm (1.117 in)
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Rear Disc Brake Caliper
LD1x54 mm (2.12 in)
Rear Disc Brake Caliper
HD
SRW2x45 mm (1.77 in)
Rear Disc Brake Caliper
HD
DRW2x51 mm (2.00 in)
Rear Disc Brake Rotor
LD350x22 mm (13.77 X .86
in)
Rear Disc Brake Rotor
HD353x30 mm (13.89 X
1.18 in)
Brake Booster
Type
Gasoline Engines
LDVacuum Dual Diaphragm
Brake Booster
Type
Gasoline Engines
HD
SRWVacuum Dual Diaphragm
Brake Booster
Type
Diesel Engines
HD
DRWHydroboost
BRAKE LINES
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE INVERTED
FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper
flare.
(3) Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
(4) Insert tube in flaring tool.
(5) Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
(6) Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until
tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches
tube diameter.
(7) Tighten the tool bar on the tube
(8) Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing
compression disc over gauge and center tapered flar-
ing screw in recess of compression disc (Fig. 5).
5 - 10 BRAKES - BASEDR
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

(9) Tighten tool handle until plug gauge is
squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start
the inverted flare.
(10) Remove the plug gauge and complete the
inverted flare.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
To make a ISO flare use an ISO flaring tool kit.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
(4) Position the tube in the flaring tool flush with
the top of the tool bar (Fig. 6). Then tighten the tool
bar on the tube.
(5) Install the correct size adaptor on the flaring
tool yoke screw.
(6) Lubricate the adaptor.
(7) Align the adaptor and yoke screw over the tube
(Fig. 6).
(8) Turn the yoke screw in until the adaptor is
squarely seated on the tool bar.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - REAR BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.(3) Remove the brake line from the hose at the
frame (Fig. 7).
(4) Remove the brake hose clip at the top of the
hose located at the frame (Fig. 7).
(5) Remove the vent tube (Fig. 8).
(6) Remove the two brake lines at the bottom of
the hose located at the axle (Fig. 8).
Fig. 5 Inverted Flare Tools
Fig. 6 ISO Flaring
1 - ADAPTER
2 - LUBRICATE HERE
3 - PILOT
4 - FLUSH WITH BAR
5 - TUBING
6 - BAR ASSEMBLY
Fig. 7 BRAKE LINE CLIP
1 - BRAKE HOSE
2 - CLIP
3 - BRAKE LINE
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 11
BRAKE LINES (Continued)