rear light DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Owner's Manual

REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING...............140
REMOVAL............................143
INSTALLATION........................144
ADJUSTMENTS.......................144
SPECIFICATIONS......................148
SPECIAL TOOLS.......................148
AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL............................152
INSTALLATION........................152
AXLE BEARINGS
REMOVAL............................152
INSTALLATION........................153
PINION SEAL
REMOVAL............................153
INSTALLATION........................154
DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL............................155DISASSEMBLY........................155
ASSEMBLY...........................156
INSTALLATION........................157
DIFFERENTIAL TRAC-RITE
DESCRIPTION........................158
OPERATION..........................158
DISASSEMBLY........................158
CLEANING...........................160
INSPECTION.........................160
ASSEMBLY...........................161
DIFFERENTIAL CASE BEARINGS
REMOVAL............................161
INSTALLATION........................161
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING
REMOVAL............................162
INSTALLATION........................164
REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubri-
cant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth
contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing
not having the proper offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The noise can also occur during a specific type
of driving condition. These conditions are accelera-
tion, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by
driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then acceler-
ate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is
the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the
peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly check for:
²Insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. The side gears are loaded dur-
ing turns. They usually do not cause noise during
straight-ahead driving when the gears are unloaded.
A worn pinion shaft can also cause a snapping or a
knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearingshave a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Differential bearingsusually produce a low pitch
noise. Differential bearing noise is similar to pinion
bearing noise. The pitch of differential bearing noise
is also constant and varies only with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearingsproduce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by:
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Worn side gear thrust washers.
²Worn pinion shaft bore.
3 - 140 REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AADR

(6) Install ring gear side adjuster lock and bolt. Do
not tighten adjuster lock bolt at this time.
(7) Tighten pinion gear side adjuster firmly
against the differential case bearing cup.
(8) Rotate the pinion several times to seat the def-
erential bearings.
(9) Loosen pinion gear side adjuster until it is no
longer in contact with the bearing cup, then tighten
it until it makes contact.
(10) Tighten pinion gear side adjuster an addi-
tional:
²New Bearings:6 Adjuster Holes
²Original Bearings:4 Adjuster Holes
(11) Install pinion gear side adjuster lock and bolt.
Do not tighten adjuster lock bolt at this time.
(12) Tighten bearing cap bolts to 115 N´m (85 ft.
lbs.).
(13) Tighten adjuster lock bolts to 33 N´m (24 ft.
lbs.).
(14) Measure ring gear backlash with a Dial Indi-
cator C-3339 and Dial Indicator Stud L-4438 at eight
points around the drive side of the ring gear (Fig. 9).
The backlash should be 0.08-0.25 mm (0.003-0.010
in) with a preferred backlash of 0.13-0.18 mm (0.005-
0.007 in).
NOTE: Backlash measurement should not vary
more than 0.05 mm (0.002 in) between measuring
points. If measurement does vary inspect the gears
for burrs, the differential case flange and ring gear
mounting.GEAR TOOTH CONTACT PATTERN
Gear tooth contact pattern is used to verify the cor-
rect running position of the ring and pinion gears.
This will produce low noise and long gear life. Gears
which are not positioned properly may be noisy and
have shorten gear life.
(1) Wipe clean each tooth of the ring gear.
(2) Apply gear marking compound to all of the ring
gear teeth.
(3) Verify bearing cap bolts are torque specifica-
tion.
(4) Apply parking brakes lightly to create at 14
N´m (10 ft. lbs.) pinion rotating torque.
(5) Rotate the pinion/pinion yoke 4 full revolutions
in each directions.
(6) Read gear tooth contact pattern:
²Gear contact pattern correct (Fig. 10). Backlash
and pinion depth is correct.
²Ring gear too far away from pinion gear (Fig.
11). Decrease backlash, by moving the ring closer to
the pinion gear using the adjusters.
²Ring gear too close to pinion gear (Fig. 12).
Increase backlash, by moving the ring away from the
pinion gear using the adjusters.
Fig. 9 RING GEAR BACKLASH
1 - DIAL INDICATOR
2 - RING GEAR
Fig. 10 CORRECT CONTACT PATTERN
Fig. 11 INCORRECT BACKLASH
1 - COAST SIDE TOE
2 - DRIVE SIDE HEEL
3 - 146 REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AADR
REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA (Continued)

(7) Remove pinion flange with Pinion Flange
Puller 8992 (Fig. 24).
(8) Remove pinion shaft seal with a pry tool or
slide hammer mounted screw.
INSTALLATION
(1) Installnewpinion seal with Installer 8896
(Fig. 25).
(2) Apply a light coat of teflon sealant to the pin-
ion flange splines.
(3) Lightly tap the pinion flange onto the pinion
until a few threads are showing.
(4) Install flange washer andnewpinion nut.(5) Hold pinion flange with Flange Wrench 8979
(Fig. 26) and tighten pinion nut until pinion end play
is taken up.
(6) Rotate pinion several times to seat bearings.
(7) Measure pinion rotating torque with an inch
pound torque wrench and compare it to recorded
measurement. Tighten pinion nut in small incre-
ments, until pinion rotating torque is 0.40-0.57 N´m
(3-5 in. lbs.) greater than recorded measurement.
(8) Rotate pinion several times then verify pinion
rotating torque again.
(9) Install axle shafts.
(10) Install propeller shaft with reference marks
aligned.
(11) Check differential fluid level.
Fig. 23 FLANGE WRENCH
1 - PINION FLANGE
2 - FLANGE WRENCH
Fig. 24 PINION FLANGE PULLER
1 - PINION FLANGE
2 - PULLER
Fig. 25 PINION SEAL INSTALLER
1 - HANDLE
2 - INSTALLER
Fig. 26 FLANGE WRENCH
1 - FLANGE WRENCH
2 - PINION FLANGE
3 - 154 REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AADR
PINION SEAL (Continued)

(3) Install first pinion gear into the differential
window and side gears. Rotate the pinion gear to the
back of the case (Fig. 34).
(4) Install the other pinion gear and thrust
washer. Rotate the gears to align hole in the pinion
gears with hole in the differential case.
(5) Slide pinion shaft into the case and through
the pinion gears. Tap the shaft to seat the pinion
shaft snap-ring into the case (Fig. 35).
(6) Install ring gear.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.
CAUTION: Do not use water, steam, kerosene or
gasoline for cleaning.
(2) Lubricate differential case bearing.
(3) Install differential case with bearings cups into
the housing.
NOTE: A light coat of grease on the cups will hold
them in place during installation.
(4) Install bearing caps and bolts (Fig. 36). Tighten
the bearing cap bolts finger-tight.
NOTE: Do not torque bearing cap and bolts at this
time.
Fig. 34 PINION GEAR
1 - DIFFERENTIAL WINDOW
2 - SIDE GEARS
3 - PINION GEAR
Fig. 35 PINION SHAFT INSTALLATION
1 - SNAP RING
2 - SIDE GEAR
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - PINION SHAFT
Fig. 36 CASE BEARING CAP
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - BEARING CAP
3 - ADJUSTER
DRREAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA 3 - 157
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

CLEANING
Clean the differential case and gears with light oil
or a lint free cloth.
NOTE: Never use water, steam, kerosene or gaso-
line for cleaning.
INSPECTION
NOTE: Minor corrosion, nicks or scratches can be
smoothed with 400 grit emery cloth and polished
out with crocus cloth.
(1) Inspect pinion gears teeth for chips and cracks
(Fig. 42).
(2) Inspect pinion gears shafts and brake shoes for
scratches, flat-spots or worn (Fig. 42).
(3) Inspect side gears teeth for chips and cracks
(Fig. 43).
(4) Inspect pinion and side gear bores for scratches
(Fig. 44).
NOTE: If any damage is found the differential must
be replaced as an assembly. Individual components
can not be replaced separately.
Fig. 42 PINION GEAR AND BRAKE SHOE
1 - BRAKE SHOES
2 - PINION GEAR
3 - PINION SHAFT
Fig. 43 SIDE GEARS
1 - THRUST WASHERS
2 - SPACER
3 - SIDE GEARS
Fig. 44 PINION/SIDE GEAR BORE
1 - PINION BORES
2 - SIDE GEAR BORE
3 - 160 REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AADR
DIFFERENTIAL TRAC-RITE (Continued)

(4) Install rear pinion bearing (Fig. 58) with
Installer D-389 and a press.
(5) Installnewcollapsible spacer (Fig. 59).
(6) Lubricate pinion and bearings.
(7) Install pinion into the housing and place front
pinion bearing onto the pinion shaft. Draw the pinionshaft into the front bearing with Installer 8981 (Fig.
60).
(8) Installnewpinion seal (Fig. 61) with Installer
8896 and Handle C-4171.
(9) Apply a light coat of teflon sealant to the pin-
ion flange splines.
(10) Hold pinion and lightly tap the pinion flange
onto the pinion, until a few threads are showing.
(11) Install pinion flange washer andnewpinion
nut.
(12) Hold pinion flange with Flange Wrench 8979
(Fig. 62) and tighten pinion nut until pinion end play
is taken up.
(13) Rotate pinion several times to seat bearings.
(14) Measure pinion rotating torque with an inch
pound torque wrench (Fig. 63). Tighten pinion nut in
small increments until pinion rotating torque is:
²New Pinion Bearings:1.7-2.8 N´m (15-25 in.
lbs.)
²Original Pinion Bearings:1.1-2.2 N´m (10-20
in. lbs.)
Fig. 58 REAR PINION BEARING
1 - PRESS
2 - INSTALLER
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - REAR PINION BEARING
Fig. 59 COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
1 - COLAPSIBLE SPACER
2 - PINION GEAR
3 - REAR PINION BEARING
Fig. 60 PINION GEAR INSTALLER
1 - INSTALLER
2 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
Fig. 61 PINION SEAL INSTALLER
1 - HANDLE
2 - INSTALLER
DRREAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA 3 - 165
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak or
fluid contamination. The leak point could be at a
brake line, fitting, hose, or caliper/wheel cylinder. If
leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or around
the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action isto inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve or a
vacuum hose could also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within the pis-
ton bore forces the caliper to slide inward on the
mounting bolts. This action brings the outboard
brake pad lining into contact with the outer surface
of the disc brake rotor.
In summary, fluid pressure acting simultaneously
on both piston and caliper, produces a strong clamp-
ing action. When sufficient force is applied, friction
will attempt to stop the rotors from turning and
bring the vehicle to a stop.
Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
piston. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and pis-
ton return to a rest position. The brake pads do not
retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from getting
between the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seal controls the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seal is deflected out-
ward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig.
25). When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are
released, the seal relaxes and retracts the piston.
The amount of piston retraction is determined by
the amount of seal deflection. Generally the amountis just enough to maintain contact between the pis-
ton and inboard brake pad.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose will result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(4) Compress the disc brake caliper.
(5) Remove the banjo bolt and discard the copper
washer.
(6) Remove the caliper slide bolts.
(7) Remove the disc brake caliper (Fig. 26) or (Fig.
27).
REMOVAL - REAR
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose will result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir with suction gun.
(5) Remove the brake hose banjo bolt and discard
the copper washers if replacing caliper (Fig. 28).
Fig. 24 Brake Caliper Operation
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON
3 - PISTON BORE
4 - SEAL
5 - INBOARD SHOE
6 - OUTBOARD SHOE
Fig. 25 Lining Wear Compensation By Piston Seal
1 - PISTON
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE OFF
4 - CALIPER HOUSING
5 - DUST BOOT
6 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE ON
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 17
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

CAUTION: If the caliper piston is replaced, install
the same type of piston in the caliper. Never inter-
change phenolic resin and steel caliper pistons.
The pistons, seals, seal grooves, caliper bore and
piston tolerances are different.
The bore can belightlypolished with a brake
hone to remove very minor surface imperfections
(Fig. 34). The caliper should be replaced if the bore is
severely corroded, rusted, scored, or if polishing
would increase bore diameter more than 0.025 mm
(0.001 inch).
ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Dirt, oil, and solvents can damage cali-
per seals. Insure assembly area is clean and dry.
(1) Lubricate caliper pistons, piston seals and pis-
ton bores with clean, fresh brake fluid.
(2) Install new piston seals into caliper bores (Fig.
35).
NOTE: Verify seal is fully seated and not twisted.
(3) Lightly lubricate lip of new boot with silicone
grease. Install boot on piston and work boot lip into
the groove at the top of piston.
(4) Stretch boot rearward to straighten boot folds,
then move boot forward until folds snap into place.
(5) Install piston into caliper bore and press piston
down to the bottom of the caliper bore by hand or
with hammer handle (Fig. 36).
(6) Seat dust boot in caliper (Fig. 37) with Handle
C-4171 and Installer:
²HD 56 mm caliper: Installer C-4340
²LD 54 mm caliper: Installer C-3716-A(7) Install the second piston and dust boot.
(8) Lubricate caliper mounting bolt bushings, boot
seals and bores with Mopar brake grease or Dow
Corningt807 grease only.
CAUTION: Use of alternative grease may cause
damage to the boots seals.
(9) Install the boot seals into the caliper seal bores
and center the seals in the bores.
(10) Install mounting bolt bushings into the boot
seals and insure seal lip is engaged into the bushing
grooves at either end of the bushing.
(11) Install caliper bleed screw.
Fig. 34 Polishing Piston Bore
1 - HONE
2 - CALIPER
3 - PISTON BORE
Fig. 35 Piston Seal
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL
Fig. 36 Caliper Piston Installation
1 - CALIPER
2 - DUST BOOT
3 - PISTON
5 - 20 BRAKES - BASEDR
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)