Engine removal DODGE RAM 1999 Service Owner's Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: DODGE, Model Year: 1999, Model line: RAM, Model: DODGE RAM 1999Pages: 1691, PDF Size: 40.34 MB
Page 288 of 1691
13) On A/T models, ensure all electrical connectors are clean
and properly connected to electrical plugs on transmission case. On
all models, check for loose or defective electrical connections on
starter and starter solenoid.
MECHANICAL INSPECTION
Compression
Manufacturer does not provide information for checking
compression.
FUEL SYSTEM
AIR IN FUEL SYSTEM
NOTE: Air in the fuel system may cause hard starting, rough
running, excessive smoke, poor engine performance, engine
misfire, poor fuel economy and fuel knock. Air may enter fuel
system whenever fuel supply lines, fuel filter/water
separator, fuel injection pump, fuel injectors or high
-pressure fuel lines are removed or disconnected.
1) Inspect all low-pressure fuel lines from fuel tank to fuel
transfer pump, fuel heater and fuel filter/water separator for signs
of leakage. Inspect all high-pressure fuel lines for signs of leakage.
See FUEL INJECTOR & HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LINES under FUEL SYSTEM.
2) After repairing fuel leak, bleed air from fuel system. See
FUEL LINE BLEEDING under FUEL SYSTEM in REMOVAL, OVERHAUL &
INSTALLATION - TRUCKS - DIESEL article.
FUEL HEATER
1) Fuel heater is located in fuel filter/water separator. See
Fig. 1 . Fuel heater uses a fuel heater temperature sensor for
controlling operation of the fuel heater.
2) A defective fuel heater may cause excessive wax build-up
in the fuel filter/water separator during cold ambient temperatures.
Wax build-up may cause hard starting, prevent engine from
accelerating, low power, Blue smoke or White smoke. For testing of
fuel heater and fuel heater temperature sensor, see SYSTEM & COMPONENT
TESTING - TRUCKS - DIESEL article.
FUEL HEATER RELAY
Ensure fuel heater relay, located in power distribution
center is installed correctly and that terminals are not corroded. For
fuel heater relay testing, see SYSTEM & COMPONENT TESTING - TRUCKS -
DIESEL article.
FUEL FILTER/WATER SEPARATOR
NOTE: A blocked or restricted fuel filter/water separator may cause
starting problems, prevent engine from accelerating, low
power or White smoke. If an excessive amount of water
collects in filter/separator in a short period of time, it
may be necessary to drain and clean fuel tank.
1) When ignition switch is first turned to ON position,
WATER-IN-FUEL (WIF) warning light should come on for 2 seconds to
perform bulb and wiring circuit test and then go off. WATER-IN-FUEL
(WIF) warning light is located on instrument panel, just below the
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NOTE: A leaking fuel injector or high-pressure fuel line may cause
a rough idle, Black smoke, poor engine performance, poor fuel
economy and fuel knock. Since a leaking high-pressure fuel
line may cause the same symptoms, check for leaking high
-pressure fuel line before checking fuel injector.
1) To determine which injector or line is malfuntioning,
start engine and check each cylinder output using scan tool. If scan
tool is not available, start engine and engine allow to idle. Loosen
high-pressure fuel line nut at each fuel injector in turn and listen
for a decrease in engine speed. Tighten high-pressure fuel line nut to
30 ft. lbs. (40 N.m). Go to next step.
2) To check for a leaking high-pressure fuel line, start
engine and allow engine to idle. Inspect high-pressure fuel lines and
connections for signs of fuel leakage by placing cardboard over high-
pressure fuel line and connection. Note if leak is being detected by
fuel being sprayed onto the cardboard. If leak exists, repair leak by
tightening high-pressure fuel line nut to 30 ft. lbs. (40 N.m) or
replacing high-pressure fuel line as necessary. If high-pressure fuel
line is replaced, bleed air from fuel system. See FUEL LINE BLEEDING
under FUEL SYSTEM in REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION - TRUCKS -
DIESEL article. If no leaks are found, go to next step.
3) Remove suspect injector. See FUEL INJECTOR under FUEL
SYSTEM in REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION - TRUCKS - DIESEL article.
Test injector with a diesel fuel injector tester. Follow tester
instructions. Replace fuel injector if fuel injector opening (pop)
pressure is not 4250-4750 psi (299-334 kg/cm
). Replace injector if
any leaks are noted at 291 psi (20 kg/cm ) less than opening (pop)
pressure. Inspect injector for burrs, cracks, wear and plugging. Check
spray pattern. If any problems are noted, replace injector.
FUEL INJECTION PUMP TIMING
Improper fuel injection pump timing may result in low power,
excessive smoke and poor fuel economy. To check fuel injection pump
timing, see FUEL INJECTION PUMP TIMING in ADJUSTMENTS - TRUCKS -
DIESEL article.
INTAKE MANIFOLD AIR HEATER
NOTE: Intake manifold air heater is used to heat incoming air
before entering each cylinder. Warming of incoming air aids
in engine starting and improved driveability during cold
ambient temperatures. Engine Control Module (ECM) uses input
signals from various sensors for controlling intake manifold
air heater relays.
SUMMARY
If no faults were found while performing basic diagnostic
procedures, proceed to SELF-DIAGNOSTICS - JEEP, TRUCKS & RWD VANS
article. If no diagnostic trouble codes are found in self-diagnostics,
proceed to TROUBLE SHOOTING - NO CODES - DIESEL article for diagnosis
by symptom (i.e., ROUGH IDLE, NO START, etc.) or intermittent
diagnostic procedures.
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NOTE: For additional information on fuel pressure and fuel pump
testing procedures, see appropriate NO TROUBLE CODE (NTC)
TEST and NO START (NS) TEST in SELF-DIAGNOSTICS - JEEP,
TRUCKS & RWD VANS article.
Vehicles With Fuel Rail Test Port
1) Disconnect negative battery cable. Release fuel pressure.
See FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE. Install fuel pressure gauge with hose on
fuel pressure test port.
2) Start engine and allow to idle. Fuel pressure should be
44-54 psi (3.1-3.8 kg/cm
). If no fuel pressure exists and engine will
not start, fuel pump relay and control circuit may be defective. See
FUEL PUMP RELAY.
3) If fuel pressure exceeds specification, fuel pump is okay,
but fuel pressure regulator is defective. Replace fuel pressure
regulator. Fuel pressure regulator is incorporated with the fuel
filter. Fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator is located on top of fuel
tank, in fuel pump module. See REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION -
TRUCKS & RWD VANS - GASOLINE article.
Vehicles Without Fuel Rail Test Port
1) Disconnect negative battery cable. Release fuel pressure.
See FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE. Fuel pressure gauge is installed between
fuel supply line and fuel line fitting on fuel rail.
2) To disconnect fuel supply line from fuel rail, ensure area
around fuel supply line and fuel rail are clean. Note direction of
latch clip installation. Latch clip is located on top of fuel supply
line at fuel rail. See Fig. 1. Using 2 screwdrivers, pry latch clip
upward, and remove from fuel rail.
3) Pull fuel supply line from fuel rail. Install Adapter
(6923) into fuel rail. Ensure adapter is fully seated in fuel rail.
Install latch clip into fuel rail, with latch clip fingers pointing
downward. If latch clip will not fully seat so latch clip fingers
extend downward below fitting on fuel rail, adapter may not be fully
seated in fuel rail.
4) Connect fuel supply line to adapter. Ensure fuel supply
line fully seats in adapter. Remove protective cap from test port, and
install Fuel Pressure Gauge/Hose (5069) at test port.
5) Start engine and allow to idle. Fuel pressure should be
44-54 psi (3.1-3.8 kg/cm
). If no fuel pressure exists and engine will
not start, fuel pump relay and control circuit may be defective. See
FUEL PUMP RELAY.
6) If fuel pressure exceeds specification, fuel pump is okay,
but fuel pressure regulator is defective. Replace fuel pressure
regulator. Fuel pressure regulator is incorporated with the fuel
filter. Fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator is located on top of fuel
tank, in fuel pump module. See REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION -
TRUCKS & RWD VANS - GASOLINE article.
7) On all models, release fuel pressure. See FUEL PRESSURE
RELEASE. Remove latch clip. Remove test equipment. Before reinstalling
fuel supply line, ensure fuel supply line fitting and fitting on fuel
rail are clean.
8) Lubricate fuel supply line fitting and fitting on fuel
rail with engine oil. Install fuel supply line on fuel rail.
9) Install latch clip into fuel rail, with latch clip fingers
pointing downward. Ensure latch clip is fully seated. Latch clip
fingers should extend downward below fitting on fuel rail when fully
seated.
10) Pull on fuel supply line to ensure fuel supply line is
fully locked on fuel rail. Reinstall negative battery cable. Start
engine and check for fuel leaks.
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1) Start engine, and check booster vacuum hose connections. A
hissing noise indicates a vacuum leak. Repair any vacuum leaks before
proceeding. Stop engine, and shift transmission into Neutral. Pump
brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in booster is depleted.
2) Hold brake pedal under light pressure. If pedal does not
hold firm and falls away, master cylinder may be faulty. Bleed system
using appropriate method, and repeat step 1). See BLEEDING PROCEDURES
under BLEEDING BRAKE SYSTEM.
3) If pedal still does not hold firm, master cylinder is
faulty. If pedal holds firm, start engine and observe pedal height. If
pedal height change is not apparent, power booster or vacuum check
valve is faulty. Install good check valve, and repeat steps 1) and 2).\
If pedal falls away slightly under light pressure and then holds firm,
go to next step .
4) Start engine. Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed
to 1500 RPM. Close throttle and immediately turn off ignition. Wait at
least 90 seconds, and try brake action again. Booster should provide 2
or more vacuum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is not
provided, perform booster and check valve vacuum tests.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve using "T"
fitting. Start engine, and run at idle speed for one minute. Clamp
hose shut between vacuum source and check valve. Stop engine, and
observe vacuum gauge. If vacuum drops more than one in. Hg within 15
seconds, booster diaphragm or check valve is faulty.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve. Remove check valve
and valve seal from booster. Use a hand-operated vacuum pump for
testing. Apply 15-20 in. Hg at large end of check valve. Vacuum should
hold steady. If gauge on pump indicates vacuum loss, check valve is
faulty and should be replaced.
COMBINATION VALVE METERING VALVE TEST
Metering valve operation can be checked visually with aid of
an assistant. While an assistant applies and releases brake pedal,
observe metering valve stem. If valve is operating correctly, stem
will extend slightly when brakes are applied, and contract when brakes
are released. If valve is faulty, replace combination valve assembly.
COMBINATION VALVE PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL SWITCH TEST
1) Using an assistant, apply brake pedal. Observe brake
warning light. Raise and support vehicle, and connect a bleed hose to
one rear wheel cylinder. Submerge other end of hose into container
partially filled with brake fluid. Have assistant press and hold brake
pedal down while observing brake warning light. Open bleeder screw. If
warning light glows, switch is operating properly.
2) If warning light fails to glow, check circuit fuse, bulb
and wiring. Repair as necessary. Repeat step 1). If warning light
fails to glow, check brakelight, parking brake switches and related
wiring. Repair as necessary. Repeat step 1). If warning light fails to
glow, pressure differential switch is faulty. Replace combination
valve assembly, and bleed brake system. Verify proper valve operation.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
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Removal & Installation
1) Disconnect and plug primary and secondary brakelines from
master cylinder. Remove master cylinder-to-power brake booster nuts.
Slide master cylinder straight out and away from power brake booster
unit.
2) Ensure reservoir is empty. Install master cylinder in
soft-jaw vise. Pry gently upward between reservoir ports while working
reservoir side to side. Remove reservoir and grommets. See Fig. 6.
3) Install NEW grommets in master cylinder ports. Lubricate
grommets with brake fluid. Firmly and evenly, press reservoir into
grommets by hand.
4) To complete installation, position master cylinder over
studs of power brake booster. Align power cylinder brake push rod with
cylinder piston. Install master cylinder nuts, and tighten to
specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table. Connect both
brakelines. Bleed system. See BLEEDING BRAKE SYSTEM.
Fig. 6: Exploded View Of Master Cylinder (Ram Pickup)
Courtesy of Chrysler Corp.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
Removal
1) Disconnect vacuum hose from booster check valve. Remove
nuts attaching master cylinder, and move cylinder away from booster.
Inside vehicle, remove booster push rod-to-brake pedal clip. Pry clip
off pedal pivot pin.
2) Remove lock nuts from booster mounting studs. Slide
booster away from dash and out of engine compartment. If booster is
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CLUTCH HOUSING (RAM PICKUP)
NOTE: Only NV4500 clutch housing can be checked using the following
bore and face runout procedures. The NV1500, NV3500 and
NV5600 clutch housings are an integral part of transmission
front case and can only be checked off vehicle.
Clutch Housing Bore Runout (NV4500)
1) Remove clutch housing. Remove clutch cover and disc. See
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Replace one flywheel
bolt with a threaded rod. See Fig. 2. Remove release fork from clutch
housing. Reinstall clutch housing. Tighten housing bolts nearest
alignment dowels first. Mount dial indicator on threaded rod and
position indicator plunger on surface of clutch housing bore. See
Fig. 4 .
2) Rotate crankshaft until indicator plunger is at top center
of housing bore. Zero dial indicator. Rotate crankshaft and record
indicator readings at 8 points, 45 degrees apart, around bore. See
Fig. 5 .
3) Repeat measurement at least twice. Subtract each reading
from one 180 degrees opposite to determine magnitude and direction of
runout. For example: 0.000" minus (-0.007") = 0.007", 0.002" minus (-\
0.010") = 0.01", 0.004" minus (-0.005") = 0.009" or -0.001" minus (0\
.
001") = -0.002" which will be 0.002". In this example, largest
difference is 0.012" (total indicator reading). This means housing
bore is offset from crankshaft centerline by 0.006" (1/2 of 0.012").
4) On gas engines, acceptable total indicator reading is 0.
010". If measured total indicator reading is more than 0.010", bore
runout will have to be corrected using offset dowels. Offset dowels
are available in 0.007", 0.014" and 0.021". See DOWEL SELECTION table.
If total indicator reading is 0.053" or greater, replace clutch
housing. If dial indicator reads positive when plunger moves inward
(toward indicator) and negative when moves outward away from
indicator), lowest or most negative reading determines direction of
housing bore offset (runout).
5) On diesel engines, offset dowels are not available to
correct runout. If total indicator reading exceeds bore runout of 0.
015", replace either clutch housing, or transmission adapter plate. On
gas engines, if bore is offset, remove housing and original dowels,
install new offset dowels in direction need to center bore with
crankshaft centerline. Install new dowels with slotted side facing
out. Using a screwdriver, rotate dowels until total indicator reading
is less than 0.010". Ensure clutch housing face runout is within
specification.
DOWEL SELECTION
\
\
\
\
\
\
\
Application - In. (mm) Offset Dowel - In. (mm\
)
0.011-0.021 (0.2794-0.5334) ......................... 0.007 (0.1778\
)
0.022-0.035 (0.5588-0.8890) ......................... 0.014 (0.3556\
)
0.036-0.052 (0.9144-1.3208) ......................... 0.021 (0.5334\
)
\
\
\
\
\
\
\
Fig. 3: Manufactured Stud Or Threaded Rod
Courtesy of Chrysler Corp.
Page 374 of 1691
Removal (AX15 & NV1500)
1) Shift gear selector into 1st or 3rd gear. Raise and
support vehicle. Disconnect necessary exhaust system components.
Remove "Y" pipe and position remaining pipes for working clearance.
Support transmission adjustable jackstand. Disconnect rear cushion and
mounting bracket from transmission or transfer case.
2) Remove rear crossmember. If transmission will be
disassembled for repair, drain transmission fluid. Disconnect
transmission shift linkage, speedometer cable, transfer case vacuum
lines and clutch hydraulic lines. Lower transmission/transfer case
assembly no more than 3" (76 mm). Reaching around transmission case,
unseat and lift shift lever dust boot. Press shift lever retainer
downward, turn retainer counterclockwise, and lift lever and retainer
out of shift tower.
3) Mark front and rear drive shaft and "U" joint for
reassembly reference. Disconnect and remove both drive shafts. Remove
crankshaft position sensor (AX15). Disconnect transmission/transfer
case assembly vent hoses. Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing.
Remove wire harness from clips on transmission case and transfer case.
4) Support transmission/transfer case assembly with
transmission jack. Secure assembly to jack with safety chains.
Reposition adjustable jackstand under engine. Remove clutch housing
brace rod. Remove clutch housing nuts and bolts. Remove
transmission/transfer case assembly.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Apply high-temperature
grease to release fork, lever, pivot ball stud and pilot bushing
located in end of crankshaft. Fill transmission with appropriate
fluid, if necessary. Tighten all nuts and bolts to specification. See
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table.
Removal (NV 3500)
1) Disconnect negative battery cable. Shift transmission to
Neutral. Open console lid and remove bolts attaching console to floor
pan. Lift cup holder bin and remove bolt attaching console to floor
pan. Lift rear of console and pull console rearward to separate from
shift bezel. Remove console from vehicle. Remove screws attaching
shift boot to floor pan and slide boot upward on lever extension.
2) Remove shift lever extension. Raise and support vehicle.
On 4WD models, remove skid plate, if equipped. Mark drive shaft and
axle yoke for alignment reference. Remove drive shaft. Remove exhaust
"Y" pipe. On 4WD models, disconnect and lower remaining exhaust pipes
for clearance as necessary. Disconnect speed sensor harness connector
and back-up light harness connector.
3) Support engine using adjustable jackstand. If transmission
is to be disassembled for repair, drain lubricant from transmission.
On 4WD models, disconnect transfer case shift linkage at transfer case
range lever and remove shift lever from transmission. Remove
bolts/nuts attaching transmission to rear mount.
4) Support transmission with a transmission jack. Secure
transmission with safety chains. Remove rear crossmember. On 4WD
models, support transfer case with transmission jack and secure
transfer case to jack with safety chains. Remove transfer case
attaching nuts and move transfer case rearward until input gear clears
transmission output shaft.
5) Lower transfer case assembly and remove it from under
vehicle. On 4WD models, remove clutch slave cylinder splash shield, if
equipped. Remove clutch slave cylinder and move aside for working
clearance. Remove starter. Remove transmission splash shield. Remove
transmission harness wires from clips on transmission shift cover.
6) Lower transmission slightly. Remove shift tower and lever
assembly. Remove transmission-to-engine attaching bolts. Slide
Page 375 of 1691
transmission and jack rearward until input shaft clears clutch disc.
Lower transmission jack and remove transmission from under vehicle.
Installation
1) To install, reverse removal procedure. Apply high-
temperature grease to pilot bushing located in end of crankshaft. Also
apply grease to release bearing bore, release fork, release fork ball
stud and drive shaft slip yoke. Apply sealer to threads of drain plug
before installing in case.
2) Align reference marks made on drive shaft(s) and "U"
joints during removal. After installing clutch assembly and housing,
tighten housing bolts nearest alignment dowels first. During final
transmission installation, install shims between clutch housing and
transmission at appropriate bolt location. Tighten all nuts and bolts
to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table.
TRANSMISSION (RAM PICKUP)
Removal (NV3500 & NV5600)
1) Disconnect negative battery cable. Shift transmission to
Neutral. Remove shift boot bezel screws and slide boot upward on lever
extension. Remove shift tower and lever assembly. Raise and support
vehicle.
2) On 4WD models, remove skid plate, if equipped. Remove
crankshaft position sensor. Mark drive shaft and axle yoke for
alignment reference. Remove drive shaft. Remove exhaust "Y" pipe. On
4WD models, disconnect and lower remaining exhaust pipes for
clearance, as necessary. Disconnect speed sensor harness connector.
3) Support engine using adjustable jackstand. If transmission
is to be disassembled for repair, drain lubricant from transmission.
On 4WD models, disconnect transfer case shift linkage at transfer case
range lever and remove shift lever from transmission. Remove
bolts/nuts attaching transmission to rear mount.
4) Support transmission with a transmission jack. Secure
transmission with safety chains. Remove rear crossmember. On 4WD
models, support transfer case with transmission jack and secure
transfer case to jack with safety chains. Remove transfer case
attaching nuts and move transfer case rearward until input gear clears
transmission output shaft.
5) Lower transfer case assembly and remove it from under
vehicle. On 4WD models, remove clutch slave cylinder splash shield, if
equipped. Remove clutch slave cylinder and move aside for working
clearance. Remove starter. Remove transmission splash shield. Remove
transmission harness wires from clips on transmission shift cover. On
some models, it may be necessary to remove front axle struts and oil
filter for access and removal clearance.
6) Lower transmission slightly. Remove shift tower and lever
assembly. Remove transmission-to-engine bolts. Slide transmission and
jack rearward until input shaft clears clutch disc. Lower transmission
jack and remove transmission from under vehicle.
Installation
1) To install, reverse removal procedure. Apply high-
temperature grease to pilot bushing located in end of crankshaft. Also
apply grease to release bearing bore, release fork, release fork ball
stud and drive shaft slip yoke.
2) Apply sealer to threads of drain plug before installing in
case. Align reference marks made on drive shaft(s) and axle yoke(s)
during removal. After installing clutch assembly and housing, tighten
housing bolts nearest alignment dowels first. Tighten all nuts and
bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table.
Removal (NV4500 & NV4500HD)
Page 376 of 1691
1) Disconnect negative battery cable. Shift transmission to
Neutral. Remove shift boot bezel screws and slide boot upward on lever
extension. Scribe mark position of extension on shank of shift lever.
2) Raise and support vehicle. On 4WD models, remove skid
plate, if equipped. Mark drive shaft and axle yoke for alignment
reference. Remove drive shaft. Remove exhaust "Y" pipe. On 4WD models,
disconnect and lower remaining exhaust pipes for clearance as
necessary. Disconnect speed sensor harness connector and back-up light
harness connector.
3) Support engine using adjustable jackstand. If transmission
is to be disassembled for repair, drain lubricant from transmission.
See Fig. 9 . On 4WD models, disconnect transfer case shift linkage at
transfer case range lever and remove shift lever from transmission.
Remove bolts/nuts attaching transmission to rear mount.
4) Support transmission with a transmission jack. Secure
transmission with safety chains. Remove rear crossmember. On 4WD
models, support transfer case with transmission jack and secure
transfer case to jack with safety chains. Remove transfer case
attaching nuts and move transfer case rearward until input gear clears
transmission output shaft.
5) Lower transfer case assembly and move it from under
vehicle. On 4WD models, remove clutch slave cylinder splash shield, if
equipped. Remove clutch slave cylinder, and move aside. Remove
starter. Remove transmission splash shield. Remove transmission
harness wires from clips on transmission shift cover. On some models,
it may be necessary to remove front axle struts and oil filter for
access and removal clearance.
6) Lower transmission slightly. Remove shift tower and lever
assembly. Remove transmission-to-engine bolts. Slide transmission and
jack rearward until input shaft clears clutch disc. Lower transmission
jack and remove transmission from under vehicle.
Installation
1) To install, reverse removal procedure. Apply high-
temperature grease to pilot bushing located in end of crankshaft. Also
apply grease to release bearing bore, release fork, release fork ball
stud and propeller shift slip yoke.
2) Apply sealer to threads of drain plug before installing in
case. Align reference marks made on drive shaft(s) and axle yoke(s)
during removal. After installing clutch assembly and housing, tighten
housing bolts nearest alignment dowels first.
3) During final transmission installation, install shims
between clutch housing and transmission at appropriate bolt location.
See CLUTCH HOUSING BORE RUNOUT and CLUTCH HOUSING FACE RUNOUT under
CLUTCH HOUSING (RAM PICKUP) under TESTING. Press extension to scribe
mark made during removal. A 0.12-0.20" (3-5 mm) space should exist
between shift lever isolator, top edge of stub shaft and tool lower
jaw. Tighten all nuts and bolts to specification. See TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS table.
Fig. 9: Identifying Transmission Drain Bolt (NV4500 & NV4500HD)
Courtesy of Chrysler Corp.
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
Page 377 of 1691
CAUTION: Clutch disc may contain asbestos fibers which can cause
serious health risk. DO NOT sand clutch components. DO NOT
clean components using compressed air. To clean components,
use a water-dampened cloth.
Removal
With transmission and clutch housing removed, mark pressure
plate and flywheel for reassembly reference. Install clutch aligner in
clutch disc to prevent disc from falling. Loosen pressure plate bolts
evenly and in rotation to avoid warping pressure plate. Remove
pressure plate and disc from flywheel. See Fig. 10.
Inspection
1) Check for oil leakage through engine rear main bearing oil
seal and transaxle input shaft seal. Check flywheel and pressure plate
for burned areas, discoloration, cracks, grooves or ridges. Replace as
necessary.
2) Use medium sandpaper (80-180 grade) to clean flywheel
surface, then wipe with mineral spirits. DO NOT flat-machine flywheel
surface. Check facing surfaces for grease or oil contamination. Check
clutch disc for wear. Clutch disc face-to-rivet head distance should
be at least .008" (.20 mm). Check splines of disc hub and transaxle
input shaft.
3) Using straightedge, check pressure plate. Friction area
should be flat to slightly concave, with the inner diameter about 0-.
0039" (0-0.1 mm) less than outer diameter. Using surface plate, check
clutch cover for flatness. Sections around bolt holes should contact
surface plate within .015" (.38 mm). Ensure cover-to-flywheel dowel
fit is snug. Replace clutch assembly as necessary.
NOTE: Before installing clutch disc, ensure flywheel mating
surface, pilot bearing/bushing and clutch release bearing are
in satisfactory condition. Repair and/or replace components
as necessary.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure using clutch aligner.
Ensure reference marks are aligned. Tighten pressure plate retaining
bolts evenly a few threads at a time to prevent warpage. See TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS table.
Fig. 10: Exploded View Of Clutch Assembly (Typical)
Courtesy of Chrysler Corp.
PILOT BEARING, CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING & FORK