warning DODGE RAM 2001 Service User Guide

tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
To make a ISO flare use an ISO flaring tool kit.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
(4) Position the tube in the flaring tool flush with
the top of the tool bar (Fig. 3). Then tighten the tool
bar on the tube.
(5) Install the correct size adaptor on the flaring
tool yoke screw.
(6) Lubricate the adaptor.
(7) Align the adaptor and yoke screw over the tube
(Fig. 3).
(8) Turn the yoke screw in until the adaptor is
squarely seated on the tool bar.
COMBINATION VALVE
DESCRIPTION
The combination valve contains a pressure differ-
ential valve and switch, metering valve and a rear
brake proportioning valve on 1500 and early
2500/3500 models with rear drum brakes. The combi-
nation valve/rear brake proportioning valve are not
repairable and must be replaced as an assembly.The pressure differential switch is connected to the
brake warning lamp.
The metering valve on the 1500 and early
2500/3500 models with rear drum brakes is used to
balance brake action between the front disc and rear
drum brakes.
The proportioning valve on the 1500 and early
2500/3500 models with rear drum brakes is used to
balance front-rear brake action at high decelerations.
OPERATION
PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL SWITCH
The switch is triggered by movement of the switch
valve. The purpose of the switch is to monitor fluid
pressure in the separate front/rear brake hydraulic
circuits.
A decrease or loss of fluid pressure in either
hydraulic circuit will cause the switch valve to shut-
tle forward or rearward in response to the pressure
differential. Movement of the switch valve will push
the switch plunger upward. This closes the switch
internal contacts completing the electrical circuit to
the warning lamp. The switch valve may remain in
an actuated position until repair restores system
pressures to normal levels.
METERING VALVE (1500 Model)(and early
2500/3500 models with rear drum brakes)
The valve holds-off the initial pressure to the front
disc brakes until the rear brake shoes retracting
springs are overcome. The valve is designed to main-
tain front brake fluid pressure at 241-517 kPa (35-75
psi) until the hold-off limit of 310-689 kPa (100 psi)
is reached. At this point, the metering valve opens
completely permitting full fluid apply pressure to the
front disc brakes. This reduces front brake lining
wear during low deceleration stops.
PROPORTIONING VALVE (1500 Model)(and early
2500/3500 models with rear drum brakes)
The valve allows normal fluid flow during moder-
ate braking. The valve only controls fluid flow during
high decelerations brake stops, when a percentage of
rear weight is transferred to the front wheels.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COMBINATION
VALVE
Pressure Differential Switch
(1) Have helper sit in drivers seat to apply brake
pedal and observe red brake warning light.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Connect bleed hose to a rear wheel cylinder
and immerse hose end in container partially filled
with brake fluid.
Fig. 3 ISO Flaring
1 - ADAPTER
2 - LUBRICATE HERE
3 - PILOT
4 - FLUSH WITH BAR
5 - TUBING
6 - BAR ASSEMBLY
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 9
BRAKE LINES (Continued)

(4) Have helper press and hold brake pedal to floor
and observe warning light.
(a) If warning light illuminates, switch is operat-
ing correctly.
(b) If light fails to illuminate, check circuit fuse,
bulb, and wiring. The parking brake switch can be
used to aid in identifying whether or not the brake
light bulb and fuse is functional. Repair or replace
parts as necessary and test differential pressure
switch operation again.
(5) If warning light still does not illuminate,
switch is faulty. Replace combination valve assembly,
bleed brake system and verify proper switch and
valve operation.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove pressure differential switch wire con-
nector (Fig. 4) from the valve.
(2) Remove the brake lines from the valve.
(3) Remove the valve mounting bolt and remove
the valve from the bracket.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the valve on the bracket and install
the mounting bolt. Tighten the mounting bolt to 23
N´m (210 in. lbs.).
(2) Install the brake lines into the valve and
tighten to 19-23 N´m (170-200 in. lbs.).
(3) Connect the pressure differential switch wire
connector.(4) Bleed base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
REMOVAL - REAR
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Compress the disc brake caliper using tool
#C4212F.
(4) Remove the caliper pin bolts.
(5) Remove the banjo bolt and discard the copper
washer.
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose with result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(6) Remove the rear disc brake caliper (Fig. 5).
REMOVAL - FRONT
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove front wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove caliper brake hose bolt, washers and
hose (Fig. 6).
(4) Remove caliper mounting bolts.
(5) Tilt the top of the caliper up and remove it
from the adapter.
(6) Remove anti-rattle springs.
NOTE: Upper and lower anti-rattle springs are not
interchangeable.
Fig. 4 Pressure
1 - COMBINATION VALVE
2 - BRAKE LINES
3 - MOUNTING BOLT
4 - PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL SWITCH
Fig. 5 REAR CALIPER
1 - Banjo Bolt
2 - Caliper Pin Bolts
5 - 10 BRAKESBR/BE
COMBINATION VALVE (Continued)

DISASSEMBLY
(1) Drain the brake fluid from caliper.
(2) C-clamp a block of wood over one piston (Fig.
7).
(3) Take another piece of wood and pad it with
one-inch thickness of shop towels. Place this piece in
the outboard shoe side of the caliper in front of the
other piston. This will cushion and protect caliper
piston during removal (Fig. 8).(4) To remove the caliper piston directshort
bursts of low pressure airwith a blow gun
through the caliper brake hose port. Use only enough
air pressure to ease the piston out.
CAUTION: Do not blow the piston out of the bore
with sustained air pressure. This could result in a
cracked piston.
WARNING: NEVER ATTEMPT TO CATCH THE PIS-
TON AS IT LEAVES THE BORE. THIS COULD
RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY.
(5) Remove the C-clamp and block of wood from
the caliper and clamp it over the dust boot of the
first piston removed. This will seal the empty piston
bore.
(6) Move the padded piece of wood in front of the
other piston.
(7) Remove the second piston using the same pro-
cedure withshort bursts of low pressure air.
(8) Remove piston dust boots with a suitable pry
tool (Fig. 9).
(9) Remove piston seals from caliper (Fig. 10).
CAUTION: Do not scratch piston bore while remov-
ing the seals.
Fig. 6 Caliper
1 - WASHERS
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - HOSE BOLT
Fig. 7 C-Clamp One Piston
1 - BLOCK OF WOOD
2 - C-CLAMP
3 - CALIPER
Fig. 8 Protect Caliper Piston
1 - CALIPER
2 - PADDED BLOCK OF WOOD
3 - C-CLAMP
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 11
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - BLEEDING
The hydraulic booster is generally self-bleeding,
this procedure will normally bleed the air from the
booster. Normal driving and operation of the unit will
remove any remaining trapped air.
(1) Fill power steering pump reservoir.
(2) Disconnect fuel shutdown relay and crank the
engine for several seconds, Refer to Fuel System for
relay location and WARNING.
(3) Check fluid level and add if necessary.
(4) Connect fuel shutdown relay and start the
engine.
(5) Turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to
lock twice.
(6) Stop the engine and discharge the accumulator
by depressing the brake pedal 5 times.
(7) Start the engine and turn the steering wheel
slowly from lock to lock twice.
(8) Turn off the engine and check fluid level and
add if necessary.
NOTE: If fluid foaming occurs, wait for foam to dis-
sipate and repeat steps 7 and 8.
REMOVAL
NOTE: If the booster is being replaced because the
power steering fluid is contaminated, flush the
power steering system before replacing the booster.
(1) With engine off depress the brake pedal 5
times to discharge the accumulator.
(2) Remove brake lines from master cylinder.
(3) Remove mounting nuts from the master cylin-
der.
(4) Remove the bracket from the hydraulic booster
lines and master cylinder mounting studs.
(5) Remove the master cylinder.
(6) Remove the return hose and the two pressure
lines from the hydraulic booster (Fig. 26).
(7) Remove the booster push rod clip, washer and
rod remove from the brake pedal. (Fig. 27).
(8) Remove the mounting nuts from the hydraulic
booster and remove the booster (Fig. 28).
Fig. 26 Master Cylinder And Booster
1 - MASTER CYLINDER
2 - RETURN LINE
3 - LINE FROM PUMP
4 - HYDRAULIC BOOSTER
5 - LINE TO GEAR
Fig. 27 Booster Push Rod
1 - BOOSTER PUSH ROD
2 - WASHER
3 - CLIP
4 - PEDAL
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 19
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

OPERATION - 2500/3500 WITH REAR DISC
BRAKES
To apply the parking brake the pedal is depressed.
This creates tension in the cable which pulls forward
on the park brake lever. The lever pushes the park
brake shoes outward and into contact with the drum
section of the rotor. The contact of shoe to rotor parks
the vehicle.
A torsion locking mechanism is used to hold the
pedal in an applied position. Parking brake release is
accomplished by the hand release.
A parking brake switch is mounted on the parking
brake lever and is actuated by movement of the
lever. The switch, which is in circuit with the red
warning light in the dash, will illuminate the warn-
ing light whenever the parking brake is applied.
Parking brake adjustment is controlled by a cable
tensioner mechanism. The cable tensioner, once
adjusted at the factory, should not need further
adjustment under normal circumstances. Adjustment
may be required if a new tensioner, or cables are
installed, or disconnected.
OPERATION - (1500 models) (Early 2500/3500
models with rear drum brakes)
To apply the parking brakes, the pedal is
depressed. This pulls the rear brake shoe actuating
levers forward. As the actuating lever is pulled for-
ward, the parking brake strut or cam, exerts a linear
force against the primary brake shoe. This action
presses the primary shoe into contact with the drum.
Once the primary shoe contacts the drum, force is
exerted through the strut/cam. This force is trans-
ferred through the strut/cam to the secondary brake
shoe causing it to pivot into the drum as well.
A torsion locking mechanism is used to hold the
pedal in an applied position. Parking brake release is
accomplished by the hand release.
A parking brake switch is mounted on the parking
brake lever and is actuated by movement of the
lever. The switch, which is in circuit with the red
warning light in the dash, will illuminate the warn-
ing light whenever the parking brake is applied.
Parking brake adjustment is controlled by a cable
tensioner mechanism. The cable tensioner, once
adjusted at the factory, should not need further
adjustment under normal circumstances. Adjustment
may be required if a new tensioner, or cables are
installed, or disconnected.
PEDAL
REMOVAL
(1) Release the parking brake.
(2) Raise the vehicle.(3) Loosen the cable tensioner nut at the equalizer
to create slack in the front cable.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Remove the knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN
OPENING COVER - REMOVAL).
(6) Disconnect the brake lamp wire from the
switch on the pedal assembly.
(7) Roll the carpet back, loosen the front cable
grommet from the floorpan and the cable retainer.
(8) Disengage the cable end connector (Fig. 65)
from the arm on the pedal assembly.
(9) Remove the bolts/nuts from the pedal assembly
and remove the assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the replacement pedal assembly on the
dash and cowl.
(2) Install the bolts/nuts and tighten to 28 N´m (21
ft. lbs.).
(3) Connect the front cable to the arm on the pedal
assembly.
(4) Tighten the front cable grommet to the floor-
pan and the cable retainer, roll the carpet back.
(5) Connect the wires to the brake lamp switch.
(6) Install the knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN
OPENING COVER - INSTALLATION).
(7) Raise the vehicle.
(8) Adjust the parking brake cable tensioner.
Fig. 65 Parking Brake Pedal Assembly
1 - PARK BRAKE PEDAL
2 - FRONT CABLE
5 - 36 BRAKESBR/BE
PARKING BRAKE (Continued)

CLUTCH
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
CLUTCH
DESCRIPTION............................1
OPERATION.............................1
WARNING...............................2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING..................2
CLUTCH...............................2
SPECIFICATIONS.........................7
CLUTCH DISC
DESCRIPTION............................7
OPERATION.............................8
REMOVAL...............................8
INSTALLATION............................9
CLUTCH HOUSING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.................11
CLUTCH HOUSING.....................11
REMOVAL..............................13
INSTALLATION...........................13
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
DESCRIPTION...........................14
OPERATION.............................14
REMOVAL..............................15
INSTALLATION...........................15
PRESSURE PLATE
DESCRIPTION...........................15OPERATION.............................16
FLYWHEEL
DESCRIPTION...........................16
OPERATION.............................16
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.................17
FLYWHEEL............................17
DISASSEMBLY...........................17
ASSEMBLY.............................17
PILOT BEARING
DESCRIPTION...........................17
OPERATION.............................18
REMOVAL..............................18
INSTALLATION...........................18
CLUTCH PEDAL
REMOVAL..............................18
INSTALLATION...........................19
LINKAGE
DESCRIPTION...........................19
OPERATION.............................20
REMOVAL..............................20
INSTALLATION...........................20
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
DESCRIPTION...........................22
OPERATION.............................22
CLUTCH
DESCRIPTION
The clutch mechanism consists of a flywheel, a sin-
gle, dry-type disc, and a diaphragm style clutch cover
(Fig. 1). A hydraulic linkage is used to operate the
clutch release bearing and fork. The flywheel is
bolted to the rear flange of the crankshaft. The
clutch pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel with
the clutch disc located between these two compo-
nents. The clutch system provides the mechanical,
but still easily detachable, link between the engine
and the transmission. The system is designed to
ensure that the full torque output of the engine is
transfered to the transmission while isolating the
transmission from the engine firing pulses to mini-
mize concerns such as gear rattle.
OPERATION
Leverage, clamping force, and friction are what
make the clutch work. The disc serves as the friction
element and a diaphragm spring and pressure plate
provide the clamping force. The clutch pedal, hydrau-
lic linkage, release lever and bearing provide the
leverage.
The clutch master cylinder push rod is connected
to the clutch pedal. When the clutch pedal is
depressed, the slave cylinder is operated by the
clutch master cylinder mounted on the dash panel.
The release fork is actuated by the hydraulic slave
cylinder mounted on the transmission housing. The
release bearing is operated by a release fork pivoting
on a ball stud mounted in the transmission housing.
The release bearing then depresses the pressure
plate spring fingers, thereby releasing pressure on
the clutch disc and allowing the engine crankshaft to
spin independently of the transmission input shaft
(Fig. 2).
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 1

WARNING
WARNING:: EXERCISE CARE WHEN SERVICING
CLUTCH COMPONENTS. FACTORY INSTALLED
CLUTCH DISCS DO NOT CONTAIN ASBESTOS
FIBERS. DUST AND DIRT ON CLUTCH PARTS MAY
CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM AFTERMAR-
KET COMPONENTS. BREATHING EXCESSIVE CON-
CENTRATIONS OF THESE FIBERS CAN CAUSE
SERIOUS BODILY HARM. WEAR A RESPIRATOR
DURING SERVICE AND NEVER CLEAN CLUTCH
COMPONENTS WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR WITH
A DRY BRUSH. EITHER CLEAN THE COMPONENTS
WITH A WATER DAMPENED RAGS OR USE A VAC-
UUM CLEANER SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR
REMOVING ASBESTOS FIBERS AND DUST. DO NOT
CREATE DUST BY SANDING A CLUTCH DISC.
REPLACE THE DISC IF THE FRICTION MATERIAL IS
DAMAGED OR CONTAMINATED. DISPOSE OF ALL
DUST AND DIRT CONTAINING ASBESTOS FIBERS
IN SEALED BAGS OR CONTAINERS. THIS WILL
HELP MINIMIZE EXPOSURE TO YOURSELF AND TO
OTHERS. FOLLOW ALL RECOMMENDED SAFETY
PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY THE OCCUPATIONAL
SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION (OSHA)
AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL SAFETY AGENCY
(EPA), FOR THE HANDLING AND DISPOSAL OF
PRODUCTS CONTAINING ASBESTOS.
DIAGNOSTIC AND TESTING - CLUTCH
A road test and component inspection (Fig. 3) is
recommended to determine a clutch problem.
During a road test, drive the vehicle at normal
speeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If the clutch chat-
ters, grabs, slips or does not release properly, remove
and inspect the clutch components. If the problem is
noise or hard shifting, further diagnosis may be
needed as the transmission or another driveline com-
ponent may be at fault.
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, water or clutch fluid on the clutch
disc and pressure plate surfaces will cause chatter,
slip and grab.
During inspection, note if any components are con-
taminated with oil, hydraulic fluid or water/road
splash.
Fig. 1 Engine Powerflow
Fig. 2 Clutch Operation
1 - FLYWHEEL
2 - PRESSURE PLATE FINGERS
3 - PIVOT POINT
4 - RELEASE BEARING PUSHED IN
5 - CLUTCH DISC ENGAGED
6 - CLUTCH DISC ENGAGED
7 - RELEASE BEARING
6 - 2 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH (Continued)

shaft speeds and releasing the energy back into the
system when the crankshaft slows down.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLYWHEEL
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. However,
minor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with
180 grit emery, or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal
isnot recommended.
Replace the flywheel if scoring
is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.).
Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel crack-
ing or warpage after installation; it can also weaken
the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with MopartLock And Seal. Tighten flywheel
bolts to specified torque only. Overtightening can dis-
tort the flywheel hub causing runout.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the teeth are worn or damaged, the fly-
wheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is
the recommended and preferred method of repair.
In cases where a new flywheel is not readily avail-
able, (V10/Diesel Engine only) a replacement ring
gear can be installed. The following procedure must
be observed to avoid damaging the flywheel and
replacement gear.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES WHILE CUTTING RING GEAR.
(1) Mark position of the old gear for alignment ref-
erence on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this pur-
pose.
(2) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the way
through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-off
wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel or
punch.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it. The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important. Every
surface of the gear must be heated at the same
time to produce uniform expansion. An oven or
similar enclosed heating device must be used. Tem-
perature required for uniform expansion is approxi-
mately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to
remove the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES AND HEAT RESISTENT GLOVES
WHEN HANDLING A HEATED RING GEAR.
(1) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion.
(2) Position and install the heated ring gear on the
flywheel with a shop press and a suitable press
plates.
(3) Place flywheel on work bench and let it cool in
normal shop air. Allow the ring gear to cool down
completely before installation it on the engine.
CAUTION: Do not use water or compressed air to
cool the flywheel. The rapid cooling produced by
water or compressed air will distort or crack the
new gear.
PILOT BEARING
DESCRIPTION
Vehicles equipped with a manual transmission uti-
lize a pilot bearing. This bearing is located in the
back of the engine crankshaft. Depending on the type
of engine or application, the pilot bearing can be a
solid soft metallic bushing or a fully caged needle
bearing. The pilot bearing's main functions are to
support the transmission input shaft, maintain
proper alignment of the clutch assembly and allow
the transmission main shaft to rotate at a different
speed than the engine mounted crankshaft.
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 17
FLYWHEEL (Continued)

ACCESSING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES
To read DTC's and to obtain cooling system data,
(Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS CONTROL - DESCRIP-
TION).
ERASING TROUBLE CODES
After the problem has been repaired, use the DRB
scan tool to erase a DTC. Refer to the appropriate
Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures service informa-
tion for operation of the DRB scan tool.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCOOLING SYSTEM
LEAKS
ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT METHOD
A leak detection additive is available through the
parts department that can be added to cooling sys-
tem. The additive is highly visible under ultraviolet
light (black light). Pour one ounce of additive into
cooling system. Place heater control unit in HEAT
position. Start and operate engine until radiator
upper hose is warm to touch. Aim the commercially
available black light tool at components to be
checked. If leaks are present, black light will cause
additive to glow a bright green color.
The black light can be used in conjunction with a
pressure tester to determine if any external leaks
exist (Fig. 5).
PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove radiator pressure cap from filler
neck and check coolant level. Push down on cap to
disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of filler neck
and examine lower inside sealing seat for nicks,
cracks, paint, dirt and solder residue. Inspect radia-
tor-to- reserve/overflow tank hose for internal
obstructions. Insert a wire through the hose to be
sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect cams on outside of filler neck. If cams are
damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and tester
seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck (Fig. 6).
Operate tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling sys-
tem according to following criteria:
Holds Steady:If pointer remains steady for two
minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in sys-
tem. However, there could be an internal leak that
does not appear with normal system test pressure. If
it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks can-
not be detected, inspect for interior leakage or per-
form Internal Leakage Test.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator,
Fig. 5 Leak Detection Using Black LightÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
Fig. 6 Pressure Testing Cooling SystemÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
BR/BECOOLING 7 - 5
COOLING (Continued)

hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove engine dipstick and inspect for water glob-
ules. Also inspect transmission dipstick for water
globules and transmission fluid cooler for leakage.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 110 KPA (20 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate engine without pressure cap on radiator
until thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure Tester to
filler neck. If pressure builds up quickly it indicates a
combustion leak exists. This is usually the result of a
cylinder head gasket leak or crack in engine. Repair
as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates compression or
combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notremove spark plug cables or short
out cylinders to isolate compression leak.If the needle on dial of pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TESTÐWITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat
removal. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE
COOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL). Remove
accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3
mm (1/4 in) of top of thermostat housing.
CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate
engine for an excessive period of time. Open drain-
cock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.
Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to
approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If
internal engine combustion gases are leaking into
cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bub-
bles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage
is not present.
7 - 6 COOLINGBR/BE
COOLING (Continued)