light DODGE RAM 2001 Service Repair Manual

(13) Remove the electrical connections from Key-in
light, Ignition Switch, Horn, Overdrive Switch and
Clock Spring (Speed Control) (Fig. 7).
(14) Remove the wiring harness from the column
by prying out the plastic retainer buttons.
(15) Remove the toe plate fasteners.
(16) Remove the column from vehicle.
(17) Remove the Ignition and Multi-Function
Switch, then remove the Clock Spring and tape the
Clock Spring to prevent it from turning, (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/RESTRAINTS/CLOCKSPRING -
REMOVAL).INSTALLATION
(1) Install the clock spring and switches, (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/RESTRAINTS/CLOCKSPRING -
INSTALLATION).
NOTE: Turn the Ignition Switch to the on position
and verify the gear shifter moves. If the shifter does
not move ensure the Ignition Switch is installed
properly.
(2) Column shift vehicles, install a new grommet.
Use multi-purpose lubricant, or equivalent, to aid
installation of the grommet.
Fig. 4 Steering Coupler-Typical
1 - STEERING COUPLER
2 - STEERING COLUMN
3 - SHIFT LEVER
Fig. 5 PRNDL Drive
1 - PRNDL LEVER
2 - THUMB SCREW
3 - CABLE RETAINER
4 - PRNDL CABLE
Fig. 6 Multi-function Switch
1 - STEERING COLUMN ASSY.
2 - MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH CONNECTOR
3 - TURN SIGNAL SWITCH AND LEVER
Fig. 7 Steering Column Wiring
1 - KEY-IN SWITCH & HALO LIGHT
2 - MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH
3 - TURN SIGNAL SWITCH & LEVER
4 - IGNITION SWITCH
5 - SPEED CONTROL
19 - 8 COLUMNBR/BE
COLUMN (Continued)

(3) Remove thrust support assembly out of the
housing (Fig. 25).
(4) Pull stub shaft and valve assembly from the
housing (Fig. 26).
(5) Remove stub shaft from valve assembly by
lightly tapping shaft on a block of wood to loosen
shaft. Then disengage stub shaft pin from hole in
spool valve and separate the valve assembly from
stub shaft (Fig. 27).
(6) Remove spool valve from valve body by pulling
and rotating the spool valve from the valve body (Fig.
28).(7) Remove spool valve O-ring and valve body
teflon rings and O-rings underneath the teflon rings
(Fig. 29).
Fig. 24 Lock Nut and Adjuster Nut
1 - ADJUSTER NUT
2 - STEERING GEAR
3 - LOCK NUT
4 - PUNCH
Fig. 25 Thrust Support Assembly
1 - STUB SHAFT
2 - HOUSING
3 - THRUST SUPPORT ASSEMBLY
Fig. 26 Valve Assembly With Stub Shaft
1 - GEAR
2 - THRUST SUPPORT
3 - LOCK NUT
4 - ADJUSTER NUT
5 - STUB SHAFT
6 - VALVE ASSEMBLY
Fig. 27 Stub Shaft
1 - STUB SHAFT
2 - VALVE BODY
3 - HOLE IN SPOOL
4 - SHAFT PIN
5 - 6mm (1/49)
BR/BEGEAR 19 - 25
SPOOL VALVE (Continued)

STEERING GEAR HOUSING
PLUG
REMOVAL
(1) Unseat and remove retaining ring from groove
with a punch through the hole in the end of the
housing (Fig. 32).
(2) Slowly rotate stub shaft with 12 point socket
COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to force the end plug out
from housing.
CAUTION: Do not turn stub shaft any further than
necessary. The rack piston balls will drop out of the
rack piston circuit if the stub shaft is turned too far.
(3) Remove O-ring from the housing (Fig. 33).
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate O-ring with power steering fluid and
install into the housing.
(2) Install end plug by tapping the plug lightly
with a plastic mallet into the housing.
(3) Install retaining ring so one end of the ring
covers the housing access hole (Fig. 34).
WORM SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove housing end plug, (Refer to 19 -
STEERING/GEAR/STEERING GEAR HOUSING
PLUG - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove rack piston plug (Fig. 35).
(3) Remove side cover and pitman shaft.
(4) Turn stub shaft COUNTERCLOCKWISE until
the rack piston begins to come out of the housing.
(5) Insert Arbor C-4175 into bore of rack piston
(Fig. 36) and hold tool tightly against worm shaft.
(6) Turn the stub shaft with a 12 point socket
COUNTERCLOCKWISE, this will force the rack pis-
Fig. 31 Stub Shaft Cap O-Ring
1 - VALVE BODY
2 - STUB SHAFT CAP
3 - O-RING
Fig. 32 End Plug Retaining Ring
1 - RETAINING RING
Fig. 33 End Plug Components
1 - HOUSING ASSEMBLY
2 - HOUSING END PLUG O-RING SEAL
3 - HOUSING END PLUG
4 - RETAINING RING
BR/BEGEAR 19 - 27
SPOOL VALVE (Continued)

INSTALLATION
NOTE: Clean and dry all components and lubricate
with power steering fluid.(1) Check for scores, nicks or burrs on the rack
piston finished surface. Slight wear is normal on the
worm gear surfaces.
(2) Install O-ring and teflon ring on the rack pis-
ton.
(3) Install worm shaft in the rack piston and align
worm shaft spiral groove with rack piston ball guide
hole (Fig. 40).
CAUTION: The rack piston balls must be installed
alternately into the rack piston and ball guide. This
maintains worm shaft preload. There are 12 black
balls and 12 silver (Chrome) balls. The black balls
are smaller than the silver balls.
(4) Lubricate and install rack piston balls through
return guide hole while turning worm shaft COUN-
TERCLOCKWISE (Fig. 40).
(5) Install remaining balls in guide using grease to
hold the balls in place (Fig. 41).
(6) Install the guide onto rack piston and install
clamp and clamp bolts. Tighten bolts to 4.8 N´m (43
in. lbs.).
(7) Insert Arbor C-4175 into bore of rack piston
and hold tool tightly against worm shaft.
(8) Turn the worm shaft COUNTERCLOCKWISE
while pushing on the arbor. This will force the rack
piston onto the arbor and hold the rack piston balls
in place.
(9) Install the races and thrust bearing on the
worm shaft and install shaft in the housing (Fig. 39).
(10) Install the stub shaft with spool valve, thrust
support assembly and adjuster nut in the housing.
Fig. 38 Rack Piston Teflon Ring and O-Ring
1 - TEFLON SEAL
2 - BACK-UP O-RING MUST BE INSTALLED UNDER PISTON
RING
3 - RACK PISTON NUT
Fig. 39 Worm Shaft
1 - GEAR HOUSING
2 - BEARING RACE
3 - WORM SHAFT
4 - BEARING
Fig. 40 Installing Balls in Rack Piston
1 - INSTALL BALLS IN THIS HOLE WHILE SLOWLY ROTATING
WORM COUNTER CLOCKWISE
2 - WORM FLANGE
BR/BEGEAR 19 - 29
WORM SHAFT (Continued)

LINKAGE - 2WD
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
LINKAGE - 2WD
DESCRIPTION...........................38
STANDARD PROCEDURE..................38
LUBRICATION.........................38REMOVAL..............................38
INSTALLATION...........................39
SPECIFICATIONS........................39
SPECIAL TOOLS.........................39
LINKAGE - 2WD
DESCRIPTION
Light duty (LD) and heavy duty (HD) steering link-
age is used with IFS suspensions. The linkage is
comprised of a idler arm, pitman arm, center link
and tie rod ends. Heavy duty linkage is used on 8800
and 10500 lb. GVW vehicles.
CAUTION: If any steering components are replaced
or serviced an alignment must be performed.
NOTE: When servicing the steering linkage, use
care to avoid damaging ball stud seals. Use Puller
C-3894±A or an appropriate puller to remove tie rod
ends (Fig. 1).
STANDARD PROCEDURE - LUBRICATION
Periodic lubrication of the idler arm is required.
Refer to Lubrication And Maintenance for the recom-
mended maintenance schedule.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the nut from the tie-rod.
(2) Remove the tie-rod end ball studs from the
steering knuckles with an appropriate puller.
(3) Remove inner tie-rod ends from center link .
(4) Remove idler arm stud from center link with
an appropriate puller. Remove the idler arm bolt
from frame bracket.
(5) Remove pitman arm ball stud from center link.
(6) Mark the pitman arm and shaft positions for
installation reference. Remove pitman arm with
Puller C-4150A (Fig. 2).
Fig. 1 Tie Rod End
1 - CLAMP
2 - ADJUSTMENT SLEEVE
3 - PULLER TOOL C-3894±A
4 - SEAL
5 - TIE-ROD END
Fig. 2 Pitman Arm
1 - PITMAN ARM
2 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4150-A
3 - WRENCH
19 - 38 LINKAGE - 2WDBR/BE

The driver selects a particular gear by moving the
shift lever to the desired gear position. This move-
ment moves the internal transmission shift compo-
nents to begin the shift sequence. As the shift lever
moves the selected shift rail, the shift fork attached
to that rail begins to move. The fork is positioned in
a groove in the outer circumference of the synchro-
nizer sleeve. As the shift fork moves the synchronizer
sleeve, the synchronizer begins to speed-up or slow
down the selected gear (depending on whether we are
up-shifting or down-shifting). The synchronizer does
this by having the synchronizer hub splined to the
mainshaft, or the countershaft in some cases, and
moving the blocker ring into contact with the gear's
friction cone. As the blocker ring and friction cone
come together, the gear speed is brought up or down
to the speed of the synchronizer. As the two speeds
match, the splines on the inside of the synchronizer
sleeve become aligned with the teeth on the blocker
ring and the friction cone and eventually will slide
over the teeth, locking the gear to the mainshaft, or
countershaft, through the synchronizer.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MANUAL
TRANSMISSION
LOW LUBRICANT LEVEL
A low transmission lubricant level is generally the
result of a leak, inadequate lubricant fill or an incor-
rect lubricant level check.
Leaks can occur at the mating surfaces of the gear
case, adaptor or extension housing, or from the front/
rear seals. A suspected leak could also be the result
of an overfill condition.
Leaks at the rear of the extension or adapter hous-
ing will be from the housing oil seals. Leaks at com-
ponent mating surfaces will probably be the result of
inadequate sealer, gaps in the sealer, incorrect bolt
tightening or use of a non-recommended sealer.
A leak at the front of the transmission will be from
either the front bearing retainer or retainer seal.
Lubricant may be seen dripping from the clutch
housing after extended operation. If the leak is
severe, it may also contaminate the clutch disc caus-
ing the disc to slip, grab and or chatter.
A correct lubricant level check can only be made
when the vehicle is level. Also allow the lubricant to
settle for a minute or so before checking. These rec-
ommendations will ensure an accurate check and
avoid an underfill or overfill condition. Always check
the lubricant level after any addition of fluid to avoid
an incorrect lubricant level condition.
HARD SHIFTING
Hard shifting is usually caused by a low lubricant
level, improper or contaminated lubricants. The con-sequence of using non-recommended lubricants is
noise, excessive wear, internal bind and hard shift-
ing. Substantial lubricant leaks can result in gear,
shift rail, synchro, and bearing damage. If a leak
goes undetected for an extended period, the first indi-
cations of component damage are usually hard shift-
ing and noise.
Component damage, incorrect clutch adjustment or
damaged clutch pressure plate or disc are additional
probable causes of increased shift effort. Incorrect
adjustment or a worn/damaged pressure plate or disc
can cause incorrect release. If clutch problem is
advanced, gear clash during shifts can result. Worn
or damaged synchro rings can cause gear clash when
shifting into any forward gear. In some new or
rebuilt transmissions, new synchro rings may tend to
stick slightly causing hard or noisy shifts. In most
cases this condition will decline as the rings wear-in.
TRANSMISSION NOISE
Most manual transmissions make some noise dur-
ing normal operation. Rotating gears generate a mild
whine that is audible, but generally only at extreme
speeds.
Severe highly audible transmission noise is gener-
ally the initial indicator of a lubricant problem.
Insufficient, improper or contaminated lubricant will
promote rapid wear of gears, synchros, shift rails,
forks and bearings. The overheating caused by a
lubricant problem, can also lead to gear breakage.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Shift transmission into Neutral.
(3) Remove shift boot bezel screws and slide boot
upward on shift lever extension.
(4) Remove shift lever extension from the shift
tower and lever assembly.
(5) Remove bolts attaching shift tower and lever
assembly to rear case. Then remove shift tower and
lever assembly.
(6) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(7) Remove crankshaft position sensor. Retain sen-
sor attaching bolts.
(8) Remove skid plate, if equipped.
(9) Drain transmission lubricant if transmission
will be disassembled for service.
(10) Mark propeller shaft/shafts and yoke/yokes for
installation reference and remove propeller shaft/
shafts.
(11) Disengage harness from clips on transmission
housing.
(12) Support engine with adjustable jack stand
and wood block.
(13) Drain transmission lubricant if transmission
will be disassembled for service.
BR/BEMANUAL - NV3500 21 - 3
MANUAL - NV3500 (Continued)

DISASSEMBLY
FRONT HOUSING
(1) Shift transmission into Neutral.
(2) If lubricant was not drained out of transmis-
sion during removal, remove drain plug and drain
lubricant.
(3) Inspect drain plug magnet for debris.
(4) Remove backup light switch located on passen-
ger side of rear housing (Fig. 3).
(5) Remove shift tower bolts and remove tower and
lever assembly (Fig. 4).(6) Remove shift shaft lock bolt (Fig. 5). Bolt is
located at top of front housing just forward of shift
tower. Bolt is a shoulder bolt that secures the shift
shaft bushing and lever.
(7) Remove bolts attaching input shaft bearing
retainer to front housing and remove retainer.
NOTE: Use pry tool to carefully lift retainer and
break sealer bead (Fig. 6).
(8) Remove bearing retainer from input shaft (Fig.
7).
(9) Remove snap ring that secures input shaft in
front bearing (Fig. 8).
Fig. 3 Backup Light Switch
1 - BACKUP LIGHT SWITCH
Fig. 4 Shift Tower
1 - SHIFT TOWER AND LEVER ASSEMBLY
2 - SHIFT SOCKET
3 - SEAL
Fig. 5 Shift Shaft Lock Bolt
1 - SHIFT SHAFT LOCK BOLT
2 - SHAFT SOCKET
Fig. 6 Loosening Bearing
1-PRYTOOL
2 - INPUT SHAFT BEARING RETAINER
BR/BEMANUAL - NV3500 21 - 5
MANUAL - NV3500 (Continued)

REAR HOUSING - 2WD
(1) Drive adapter housing alignment dowels back
into housing until dowels are flush with mounting
surface (Fig. 89).
(2) Apply liberal quantity of petroleum jelly to
countershaft rear bearing and bearing race.
(3) Install countershaft rear bearing in bearing
race (Fig. 90).
NOTE: Large diameter side of the roller retainer
faces the countershaft and the small diameter side
faces the race and housing (Fig. 91).
(4) Apply extra petroleum jelly to hold counter-
shaft rear bearing in place when housing is installed.
(5) Apply light coat of petroleum jelly to shift shaft
bushing/bearing in rear housing (Fig. 91).
(6) Reach into countershaft rear bearing with fin-
ger and push each bearing roller outward against the
race. Then apply extra petroleum jelly to hold rollers
in place during housing installation.
Fig. 89 Rear Housing Dowels
1 - HOUSING ALIGNMENT DOWELS
2 - REAR HOUSING
3 - DOWEL FLUSH WITH SURFACE
Fig. 90 Countershaft Rear
1 - COUNTERSHAFT REAR BEARING
2 - REAR BEARING RACE
3 - REAR HOUSING
4 - PETROLEUM JELLY (APPLY TO BEARING AND RACE)
Fig. 91 Countershaft Bearing
1 - SHIFT SHAFT BUSHING/BEARING
2 - COUNTERSHAFT REAR BEARING (SEATED IN RACE)
BR/BEMANUAL - NV3500 21 - 31
MANUAL - NV3500 (Continued)

(7) Install rear housing onto geartrain (Fig. 92)
and verify bearing retainer pilot stud is in correct
bolt hole in housing. Be sure countershaft and output
shaft bearings are aligned in housing and on counter-
shaft.
NOTE: It may be necessary to lift upward on coun-
tershaft slightly to ensure that the countershaft rear
bearing engages to the countershaft before the rear
output shaft bearing engages the housing.
(8) Seat rear housing on output shaft rear bearing
and countershaft. Use plastic or rawhide mallet to
tap housing into place.
(9) Apply Mopar Gasket Maker or equivalent to
housing bolt threads, bolt shanks and under bolt
heads (Fig. 93).
(10) Start first two bolts in retainer (Fig. 94). It
may be necessary to move retainer rearward (with
pilot stud) in order to start bolts in retainer.
(11) Remove Alignment Pin 8120 and install last
retainer bolt (Fig. 94).
(12) Tighten all three retainer bolts to 30-35 N´m
(22-26 ft. lbs.).
ADAPTER HOUSING - 4WD
(1) Install rear bearing in adapter housing. Use
wood hammer handle or wood dowel to tap bearing
into place.
(2) Position rear bearing retainer in adapter hous-
ing (Fig. 95).
Fig. 92 Rear Housing - 2WD
1 - REAR HOUSING
2 - SHIFT FORKS AND GEARTRAIN
Fig. 93 Housing Bolts
1 - MOPAR GASKET MAKER (OR LOCTITE 518)
2 - RETAINER AND HOUSING BOLTS
3 - APPLY SEALER TO UNDERSIDE OF BOLT HEAD, SHANK
AND THREADS
Fig. 94 Pilot Stud Tool And Retainer Bolts - 2WD
1 - BEARING RETAINER BOLT
2 - PIN 8120
21 - 32 MANUAL - NV3500BR/BE
MANUAL - NV3500 (Continued)

(3) Apply Mopar Gasket Maker or equivalent to
threads, bolt shanks and under hex heads of bearing
retainer bolts (Fig. 93).
(4) Apply liberal quantity of petroleum jelly to
countershaft rear bearing and bearing race.
(5) Install countershaft rear bearing in bearing
race (Fig. 91).
NOTE: Large diameter side of the roller retainer
faces the countershaft and the small diameter side
faces the race and housing (Fig. 91).
(6) Apply extra petroleum jelly to hold counter-
shaft rear bearing in place when housing is installed.
(7) Apply light coat of petroleum jelly to shift shaft
bushing/bearing in adapter housing (Fig. 91).
(8) Install adapter housing on geartrain.
(9) Install rear bearing snap ring on output shaft
(Fig. 96).
(10) Lubricate lip of new rear seal (Fig. 97) with
MopartDoor Ease, or transmission fluid.
(11) Installnewrear seal in adapter housing bore
with Installer C-3860-A. Verify seal is seated in hous-
ing bore (Fig. 97).
SHIFT SHAFT, SHAFT LEVER AND BUSHING AND
SHIFT SOCKET
(1) Verify that all synchro sleeves are in Neutral
position (centered on hub).
CAUTION: Transmission synchros must all be in
Neutral position for reassembly. Otherwise the
housings, shift forks and gears can be damaged
during installation of the two housings.
Fig. 95 Adapter Housing - 4WD
1 - BEARING RETAINER
2 - RETAINER BOLT
3 - IDLER SHAFT NOTCH
4 - COUNTERSHAFT BEARING RACE
5 - REAR BEARING
Fig. 96 Rear Bearing Snap Ring - 4WD
1 - SNAP RING PLIERS
2 - SNAP RING
3 - OUTPUT SHAFT
Fig. 97 Rear Seal
1 - REAR SEAL
2 - SEAL LIP
3 - OUTPUT SHAFT
BR/BEMANUAL - NV3500 21 - 33
MANUAL - NV3500 (Continued)