battery DODGE RAM 2001 Service Repair Manual

NOTE: If the PDC is being replaced with a new unit,
be certain to transfer each of the blade-type fuses,
cartridge fuses and relays from the faulty PDC to
the proper cavities of the replacement PDC. Refer
to Power Distribution in the index of this service
manual for the location of complete PDC circuit dia-
grams and cavity assignments.(1) Position the PDC and the headlamp and dash
wire harness unit in the engine compartment.
(2) Install and tighten the two screws that secure
the PDC housing to the left front fender inner shield.
Tighten the screws to 8.4 N´m (75 in. lbs.).
(3) Install and tighten the screw that secures the
PDC housing to the left front fender wheel housing.
Tighten the screw to 2.2 N´m (20 in. lbs.).
(4) Install the eyelet of the battery positive cable
PDC take out onto the forward B(+) terminal stud in
the PDC.
(5) Install and tighten the nut that secures the
eyelet of the battery positive cable PDC take out to
the forward B(+) terminal stud in the PDC. Tighten
the nut to 8.4 N´m (75 in. lbs.).
(6) Install the eyelet of the battery negative cable
generator output take out onto the rearward B(+) ter-
minal stud in the PDC.
(7) Install and tighten the nut that secures the
eyelet of the battery negative cable generator output
take out to the rearward B(+) terminal stud in the
PDC. Tighten the nut to 75 in. lbs.
(8) Reconnect the engine wire harness in-line con-
nector to the PDC.
(9) Install and tighten the screw that secures the
engine wire harness in-line connector to the PDC.
Tighten the screw until a distinct audible click is
heard.
(10) Install and latch the cover onto the PDC.
(11) Engage each of the retainers that secure the
headlamp and dash wire harness to the vehicle body
and chassis components. Refer toConnector Loca-
tionsin the index of this service manual for the loca-
tion of more information on the headlamp and dash
wire harness retainer locations.
(12) Install all of the fasteners that secure each of
the headlamp and dash wire harness ground eyelets
to the vehicle body and chassis components. Refer to
Connector Locationsin the index of this service
manual for the location of more information on the
ground eyelet locations.
(13) Reconnect each of the headlamp and dash
wire harness connectors. Refer toConnector Loca-
tionsin the index of this service manual for the loca-
tion of more information on the headlamp and dash
wire harness connector locations.
(14) Reconnect the battery negative cable.POWER OUTLET
DESCRIPTION
An accessory power outlet is standard equipment
on this model. The power outlet is installed in the
instrument panel below the cigar lighter and next to
the ash receiver, which is located near the center of
Fig. 9 Battery and Generator Connections to PDC
1 - NUTS
2 - BATTERY POSITIVE CABLE
3 - BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE
4 - POWER DISTRIBUTION CENTER
5 - CABLE EYELETS
Fig. 10 Power Distribution Center
1 - FENDER INNER SHIELD
2 - INNER WHEEL HOUSE
3 - SCREW
4 - SCREW
5 - POWER DISTRIBUTION CENTER
BR/BE8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTION 8W - 97 - 9
POWER DISTRIBUTION CENTER (Continued)

the instrument panel, below the radio. The power
outlet base is secured by a snap fit within the instru-
ment panel. A plastic protective cap snaps into the
power outlet base when the power outlet is not being
used, and hangs from the power outlet base mount
by an integral bail strap while the power outlet is in
use.
The power outlet receptacle unit and the accessory
power outlet protective cap are available for service.
The power outlet receptacle cannot be repaired and,
if faulty or damaged, it must be replaced.
OPERATION
The power outlet base or receptacle shell is con-
nected to ground, and an insulated contact in the
bottom of the shell is connected to battery current.
The power outlet receives battery voltage from a fuse
in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) at all times.
While the power outlet is very similar to a cigar
lighter base unit, it does not include the two small
spring-clip retainers inside the bottom of the recepta-
cle shell that are used to secure the cigar lighter
heating element to the insulated contact.
DIAGNOSIS & TESTING - POWER OUTLET
For complete circuit diagrams, refer toPower
Outletin Wiring Diagrams.
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, REFER TO GROUP 8M - PASSIVE
RESTRAINT SYSTEMS BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY
STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR
INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR
SERVICE. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRE-
CAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIR-
BAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(1) Check the fused B(+) fuse in the Power Distri-
bution Center (PDC). If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK,
repair the shorted circuit or component as required
and replace the faulty fuse.
(2) Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) fuse
in the PDC. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the
open fused B(+) circuit to the battery as required.
(3) Remove the plastic protective cap from the
power outlet receptacle. Check for continuity between
the inside circumference of the power outlet recepta-
cle and a good ground. There should be continuity. If
OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, go to Step 5.
(4) Check for battery voltage at the insulated con-
tact located at the back of the power outlet recepta-
cle. If not OK, go to Step 5.
(5) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable. Remove the power outlet receptacle from the
instrument panel. Disconnect the wire harness con-
nector from the power outlet receptacle. Check forcontinuity between the ground circuit cavity of the
power outlet wire harness connector and a good
ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step
6. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit to ground
as required.
(6) Connect the battery negative cable. Check for
battery voltage at the fused B(+) circuit cavity of the
power outlet wire harness connector. If OK, replace
the faulty power outlet receptacle. If not OK, repair
the open fused B(+) circuit to the PDC fuse as
required.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Pull the cigar lighter knob and element out of
the cigar lighter receptacle base, or unsnap the pro-
tective cap from the power outlet receptacle base
(Fig. 11).
(3) Look inside the cigar lighter or power outlet
receptacle base and note the position of the rectangu-
lar retaining bosses of the mount that secures the
receptacle base to the instrument panel (Fig. 12).
(4) Insert a pair of external snap ring pliers into
the cigar lighter or power outlet receptacle base and
engage the tips of the pliers with the retaining
bosses of the mount.
(5) Squeeze the pliers to disengage the mount
retaining bosses from the receptacle base and, using
a gentle rocking motion, pull the pliers and the
receptacle base out of the mount.
Fig. 11 Cigar Lighter and Power Outlet
1 - RECEPTACLE BASE
2 - KNOB & ELEMENT
3 - MOUNT
4 - WIRE HARNESS CONNECTOR
5 - POWER OUTLET
8W - 97 - 10 8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTIONBR/BE
POWER OUTLET (Continued)

(6) Pull the receptacle base away from the instru-
ment panel far enough to access the instrument
panel wire harness connector.
(7) Disconnect the instrument panel wire harness
connector from the cigar lighter or power outlet
receptacle base connector receptacle.
(8) Remove the cigar lighter or power outlet mount
from the instrument panel.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the cigar lighter or power outlet mount
into the instrument panel.
(2) Reconnect the instrument panel wire harness
connector to the cigar lighter or power outlet recep-
tacle base connector receptacle.
(3) Align the splines on the outside of the cigar
lighter or power outlet receptacle base connector
receptacle with the grooves on the inside of the
mount.
(4) Press firmly on the cigar lighter or power out-
let receptacle base until the retaining bosses of the
mount are fully engaged in their receptacles.
(5) Install the cigar lighter knob and element into
the cigar lighter receptacle base, or the protective cap
into the power outlet receptacle base.
(6) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
Fig. 12 Cigar Lighter and Power Outlet Remove/
Install
1 - KNOB AND ELEMENT
2 - RETAINING BOSSES-ENGAGE PLIERS HERE
3 - BASE
4 - PARTIALLY REMOVED
5 - EXTERNAL SNAP-RING PLIERS
6 - MOUNT
7 - BASE
BR/BE8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTION 8W - 97 - 11
POWER OUTLET (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐPERFORMANCE
PERFORMANCE DIAGNOSIS CHARTÐGASOLINE ENGINES
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT
CRANK1. Weak or dead battery 1. Charge/Replace Battery. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/
BATTERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check charging system. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/CHARGING - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections2. Clean/tighten suspect battery/starter
connections
3. Faulty starter or related circuit(s) 3. Check starting system. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
4. Seized accessory drive component 4. Remove accessory drive belt and
attempt to start engine. If engine starts,
repair/replace seized component.
5. Engine internal mechanical failure or
hydro-static lock5. Refer to (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
ENGINE CRANKS BUT
WILL NOT START1. No spark 1. Check for spark. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL -
DESCRIPTION)
2. No fuel 2. Perform fuel pressure test, and if
necessary, inspect fuel injector(s) and
driver circuits. (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL PUMP
- DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
3. Low or no engine compression 3. Perform cylinder compression pressure
test. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
ENGINE LOSS OF
POWER1. Worn or burned distributor rotor 1. Install new distributor rotor
2. Worn distributor shaft 2. Remove and repair distributor (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/
DISTRIBUTOR - REMOVAL).
3. Worn or incorrect gapped spark
plugs3. Clean plugs and set gap. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/
SPARK PLUG - CLEANING).
4. Dirt or water in fuel system 4. Clean system and replace fuel filter
5. Faulty fuel pump 5. Install new fuel pump
6. Incorrect valve timing 6. Correct valve timing
7. Blown cylinder head gasket 7. Install new cylinder head gasket
8. Low compression 8. Test cylinder compression (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
9. Burned, warped, or pitted valves 9. Install/Reface valves as necessary
10. Plugged or restricted exhaust
system10. Install new parts as necessary
9 - 4 ENGINE 3.9LBR/BE
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise, the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
REMOVAL).
(3) Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
(4) Disconnect the ignition coil.
(5) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(6) Record the compression pressure on the third
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for the
correct engine compression pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing)
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM HOT COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn OFF the
engine.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recom-
mended.
Perform the test procedure on each cylinder accord-
ing to the tester manufacturer's instructions. While
testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through
the throttle body, tailpipe or oil filler cap opening.
Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE
LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART below
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 9
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐREAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL), for proper replacement
procedures.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
Fig. 3 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 10 ENGINE 3.9LBR/BE
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC
LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(7) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(15) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐREPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐFORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS & SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 11
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier then using precut gas-
kets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the upper crossmember and top core
support.
(4) Remove the transmission oil cooler (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/TRANSMISSION/TRANS COOLER -
REMOVAL).(5) Discharge the air conditioning system, if
equipped (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/PLUMBING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(6) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the A/C compressor with the lines
attached. Set aside.
(8) If equipped, remove the condenser (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/
A/C CONDENSER - REMOVAL).
(9) Remove the washer bottle.
(10) Remove the fan and fan shroud (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(11) Remove radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR - REMOVAL).
(12) Remove the generator with the wire connec-
tions (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/CHARGING/GEN-
ERATOR - REMOVAL).
(13) Remove the air cleaner box.
(14) Disconnect the throttle linkage.
(15) Remove throttle body (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/THROTTLE BODY -
REMOVAL).
(16) Remove the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(17) Remove the distributor cap and wiring.
(18) Disconnect the heater hoses.
(19) Disconnect the power steering hoses, if
equipped.
(20) Perform the Fuel System Pressure release
procedure (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).Disconnect
the fuel supply line (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CONNECT FITTING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(21) On Manual Transmission vehicles, remove the
shift lever.
(22) Raise and support the vehicle on a hoist.
(23) Remove the drain plug and drain the engine
oil.
(24) Remove engine front mount through-bolt nuts.
(25)Automatic TransmissionRemove the trans-
mission cooler line brackets from oil pan.
(26) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
(27) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
(28)Manual TransmissionRemove the transmis-
sion.(Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/
MANUAL - REMOVAL).
(29) Lower the vehicle.
CAUTION: DO NOT lift the engine by the intake
manifold.
(30) Install an engine lifting fixture.
9 - 12 ENGINE 3.9LBR/BE
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

(31) Remove engine from vehicle and install
engine assembly on a repair stand.
INSTALLATION
(1) Remove engine from the repair stand and posi-
tion in the engine compartment. Position the
through-bolt into the support cushion brackets.
(2) Install an engine support fixture.
(3) Raise and support the vehicle on a hoist.
(4)Manual TransmissionInstall the transmis-
sion (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/
MANUAL - INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the starter and connect the starter
wires (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/
STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install exhaust pipe to manifold.
(7)Automatic TransmissionInstall the trans-
mission cooler line brackets on oil pan.
(8) Install engine front mount through-bolt nuts.
Tighten the nuts.
(9) Install the drain plug and tighten to 34 N´m
(25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Lower the vehicle.
(11) Remove engine-lifting fixture.
(12) On Manual Transmission vehicles, install the
shift lever.
(13) Connect the fuel supply line (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CON-
NECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(14) Connect the power steering hoses, if equipped.
(15) Connect the heater hoses.
(16) Install the distributor cap and wiring.
(17) Install the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
INSTALLATION).(18) Using a new gasket, install throttle body
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/
THROTTLE BODY - INSTALLATION).
(19) Connect the throttle linkage.
(20) Install the air cleaner box.
(21) Install the generator and wire connections
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER
MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
(22) Install radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR - INSTALLATION).
(23) Install the fan and fan shroud (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
(24) Install the washer bottle.
(25) If equipped, install the condenser (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/
A/C CONDENSER - INSTALLATION).
(26) Install the A/C compressor with the lines
attached.
(27) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(28) Evacuate and charge the air conditioning sys-
tem, if equipped (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(29) Install the transmission oil cooler (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/TRANSMISSION/TRANS COOLER -
INSTALLATION).
(30) Install the upper crossmember and top core
support.
(31) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(32) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(33) Start engine and check for leaks.
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 13
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL
The alloy cast iron cylinder heads (Fig. 7) are held
in place by eight bolts. The spark plugs are located
at the peak of the wedge between the valves.
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable from the
battery.
(2) Drain cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the intake manifold-to-generator
bracket support rod. Remove the generator.
(4) Remove closed crankcase ventilation system.
(5) Disconnect the evaporation control system.
(6) Remove the air cleaner, air in-let hose and res-
onator.
(7) Perform fuel system pressure release procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Disconnect the fuel supply line from the fuel
rail (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/
QUICK CONNECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(9) Disconnect accelerator linkage and if so
equipped, the speed control and transmission kick-
down cables.
(10) Remove distributor cap and wires.
(11) Disconnect the coil wires.
(12) Disconnect coolant temperature sending unit
wire.
(13) Disconnect heater hoses and bypass hose.
(14) Disconnect the vacuum supply hoses from the
intake manifold.
(15) Disconnect the fuel injector harness and
secure out of the way.
(16) Remove cylinder head covers and gaskets
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLIN-
DER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).(17) Remove intake manifold and throttle body as
an assembly. Discard the flange side gaskets and the
front and rear cross-over gaskets.
(18) Remove exhaust manifolds (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/EXHAUST MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(19) Remove rocker arm assemblies and push rods.
Identify to ensure installation in original locations.
(20) Remove the head bolts from each cylinder
head and remove cylinder heads. Discard the cylin-
der head gasket.
(21) Remove spark plugs.
CLEANING
Clean all surfaces of cylinder block and cylinder
heads.
Clean cylinder block front and rear gasket surfaces
using a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect all surfaces with a straightedge if there is
any reason to suspect leakage. If out-of-flatness
exceeds 0.00075mm (0.0001in.) times the span length
in any direction, either replace head or lightly
machine the head surface.
FOR EXAMPLE:ÐA 305 mm (12 in.) span is
0.102 mm (0.004 in.) out-of-flat. The allowable out-of-
flat is 305 x 0.00075 (12 x 0.00075) equals 0.23 mm
(0.009 in.). This amount of out-of-flat is acceptable.
The cylinder head surface finish should be
1.78-3.00 microns (70-125 microinches).
Inspect push rods. Replace worn or bent rods.
INSTALLATION
The alloy cast iron cylinder heads (Fig. 7) are held
in place by eight bolts. The spark plugs are located
at the peak of the wedge between the valves.
(1) Position the new cylinder head gaskets onto
the cylinder block.
(2) Position the cylinder heads onto head gaskets
and cylinder block.
(3) Starting at top center, tighten all cylinder head
bolts, in sequence, to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.) torque (Fig.
7). Repeat procedure, tighten all cylinder head bolts
to 143 N´m (105 ft. lbs.) torque. Repeat procedure to
confirm that all bolts are at 143 N´m (105 ft. lbs.)
torque.
CAUTION: When tightening the rocker arm bolts, be
sure the piston in that cylinder is NOT at TDC. Con-
tact between the valves and piston could occur.
(4) Install push rods and rocker arm assemblies in
their original positions. Tighten the bolts to 28 N´m
(21 ft. lbs.) torque.
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 23
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)