change wheel DODGE RAM 2001 Service Owner's Guide

INSTALLATION
(1) Raise axle with lifting device and align to the
leaf spring centering bolts.
(2) Install spring clamps and spring brackets.
Refer to 2 Suspension for procedures.
(3) Install shock absorbers and tighten nuts to 82
N´m (60 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install RWAL sensor to the differential hous-
ing, if necessary. Refer to 5 Brakes for procedures.
(5) Install parking brake cables, cable brackets
and brake drums. Refer to 5 Brakes for procedures.
(6) Connect brake hose to axle junction block.
Refer to 5 Brakes for procedures.
(7) Install axle vent hose.
(8) Align propeller shaft and pinion yoke reference
marks. Install universal joint straps and bolts.
Tighten to 19 N´m (14 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install the wheels and tires.
(10) Add gear lubricant, if necessary. Refer to
Lubricant Specifications for lubricant requirements.
(11) Remove lifting device from axle and lower the
vehicle.
ADJUSTMENTS
Ring and pinion gears are supplied as matched
sets only. The identifying numbers for the ring and
pinion gear are etched into the face of each gear (Fig.
4). A plus (+) number, minus (±) number or zero (0) is
etched into the face of the pinion gear. This number
is the amount (in thousandths of an inch) the depth
varies from the standard depth setting of a pinion
etched with a (0). The standard setting from the cen-
ter line of the ring gear to the back face of the pinion
is 136.53 mm (5.375 in.). The standard depth pro-
vides the best gear tooth contact pattern. Refer to
Backlash and Contact Pattern in this section for
additional information.
Compensation for pinion depth variance is
achieved with a select shim/oil baffle. The shims are
placed between the rear pinion bearing and the pin-
ion gear head (Fig. 5).
If a new gear set is being installed, note the depth
variance etched into both the original and replace-
ment pinion. Add or subtract this number from the
thickness of the original depth shim/oil slinger to
compensate for the difference in the depth variances.
Refer to the Depth Variance chart.
Note where Old and New Pinion Marking columns
intersect. Intersecting figure represents plus or
minus the amount needed.
Note the etched number on the face of the pinion
gear head (±1, ±2, 0, +1, +2, etc.). The numbers rep-
resent thousands of an inch deviation from the stan-dard. If the number is negative, add that value to the
required thickness of the depth shims. If the number
is positive, subtract that value from the thickness of
the depth shim. If the number is 0 no change is nec-
essary.
Fig. 4 Pinion Gear ID Numbers
1 - PRODUCTION NUMBERS
2 - PINION GEAR DEPTH VARIANCE
3 - GEAR MATCHING NUMBER
Fig. 5 Adjustment Shim Loactions
1 - PINION GEAR DEPTH SHIM/OIL BAFFLE
2 - DIFFERENTIAL BEARING SHIM
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 267RBI 3 - 145
REAR AXLE - 267RBI (Continued)

on bumpy roads and provide more pulling power when
one wheel looses traction. Pulling power is provided
continuously until both wheels loose traction. If both
wheels slip due to unequal traction, Trac-lokyopera-
tion is normal. In extreme cases of differences of trac-
tion, the wheel with the least traction may spin.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - AXLE
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubri-
cant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth
contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing
not having the proper offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The noise can also occur during a specific type
of driving condition. These conditions are accelera-
tion, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by
driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then acceler-
ate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is
the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the
peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-
cle turns. A worn pinion shaft can also cause a snap-
ping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changeswhen the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side±gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined
before starting any repair.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 286RBI 3 - 171
REAR AXLE - 286RBI (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Raise the axle with lifting device and align to
the leaf spring centering bolts.
(2) Install the spring clamps and spring brackets.
Refer to 2 Suspension for procedures.
(3) Install shock absorbers and tighten nuts to 82
N´m (60 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the RWAL sensor to the differential
housing, if necessary. Refer to 5 Brakes for proce-
dures.
(5) Connect the parking brake cables and cable
brackets.
(6) Install the brake drums. Refer to 5 Brakes for
procedures.
(7) Connect the brake hose to the axle junction
block. Refer to 5 Brakes for procedures.
(8) Install axle vent hose.
(9) Align propeller shaft and pinion companion
flange reference marks. Install the companion flange
bolts. Tighten to 108 N´m (80 ft. lbs.).
(10) Install the wheels and tires.
(11) Add gear lubricant, if necessary. Refer to
Specifications for lubricant requirements.
(12) Remove lifting device from axle and lower the
vehicle.
ADJUSTMENTS
Ring and pinion gears are supplied as matched
sets only. The identifying numbers for the ring and
pinion gear are etched into the face of each gear (Fig.
4). A plus (+) number, minus (±) number or zero (0) is
etched into the face of the pinion gear. This number
is the amount (in thousandths of an inch) the depth
varies from the standard depth setting of a pinion
etched with a (0). The standard setting from the cen-
ter line of the ring gear to the back face of the pinion
is 147.625 mm (5.812 in.). The standard depth pro-
vides the best teeth contact pattern. Refer to Back-
lash and Contact Pattern Analysis Paragraph in this
section for additional information.
Compensation for pinion depth variance is
achieved with select shims. The shims are placed
under the inner pinion bearing cone (Fig. 5).
If a new gear set is being installed, note the depth
variance etched into both the original and replace-
ment pinion gear. Add or subtract the thickness of
the original depth shims to compensate for the differ-
ence in the depth variances. Refer to the Depth Vari-
ance charts.
Note where Old and New Pinion Marking columns
intersect. Intersecting figure represents plus or
minus amount needed.
Note the etched number on the face of the drive
pinion gear (±1, ±2, 0, +1, +2, etc.). The numbers rep-
resent thousands of an inch deviation from the stan-dard. If the number is negative, add that value to the
required thickness of the depth shim(s). If the num-
ber is positive, subtract that value from the thickness
of the depth shim(s). If the number is 0 no change is
necessary. Refer to the Pinion Gear Depth Variance
Chart.
Fig. 4 Pinion Gear ID Numbers
1 - PRODUCTION NUMBERS
2 - PINION GEAR DEPTH VARIANCE
3 - GEAR MATCHING NUMBER
Fig. 5 Adjustment Shim Locations
1 - PINION BEARING PRELOAD SHIM
2 - DIFFERENTIAL BEARING SHIM
3 - PINION GEAR DEPTH SHIM
3 - 174 REAR AXLE - 286RBIBR/BE
REAR AXLE - 286RBI (Continued)

(14) Remove support and lower vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL - TRAC-LOK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TRAC-LOKY
The most common problem is a chatter noise when
turning corners. Before removing a Trac-lokyunit
for repair, drain, flush and refill the axle with the
specified lubricant. A container of Mopar Trac-loky
Lubricant (friction modifier) should be added after
repair service or during a lubricant change.
After changing the lubricant, drive the vehicle and
make 10 to 12 slow, figure-eight turns. This maneu-
ver will pump lubricant through the clutches. This
will correct the condition in most instances. If the
chatter persists, clutch damage could have occurred.
DIFFERENTIAL TEST
The differential can be tested without removing the
differential case by measuring rotating torque. Make
sure brakes are not dragging during this measure-
ment.
(1) Place blocks in front and rear of both front
wheels.
(2) Raise one rear wheel until it is completely off
the ground.
(3) Engine off, transmission in neutral, and park-
ing brake off.(4) Remove wheel and bolt Special Tool 6790 or
equivalent tool to studs.
(5) Use torque wrench on special tool to rotate
wheel and read rotating torque (Fig. 35).
(6) If rotating torque is less than 22 N´m (30 ft.
lbs.) or more than 271 N´m (200 ft. lbs.) on either
wheel the unit should be serviced.
DISASSEMBLY
The Trac-Lokydifferential on this axle has a one-
piece cross shaft and uses one dished disc, regular 5
disc and 7 plates.
NOTE: Pay attention to the clutch pack arrangement
during disassembly. Note the direction of the con-
cave and convex side of the plates and discs.
(1) Mark the ring gear half and cover half for
installation reference (Fig. 36).
(2) Remove case attaching bolts and remove the
button cover half (Fig. 37).
(3) Remove top clutch pack.
(4) Remove top side gear clutch ring.
(5) Remove top side gear.
(6) Remove pinion mate gears and cross shaft.
(7) Remove the same parts listed above from the
ring gear flange half of the case. Keep these parts
with the flange cover half for installation in their
original positions.
ASSEMBLY
The Trac-Lokydifferential for this axle has a one-
piece cross shaft and uses one dished disc, 5 regular
disc and 7 plates for each clutch pack.
NOTE: The clutch discs are replaceable as com-
plete sets only. If one clutch disc pack is damaged,
both packs must be replaced.
Fig. 34 Differential Cover
1 - SEALANT SURFACE
2 - SEALANT
3 - SEALANT THICKNESS
Fig. 35 Trac-lokYTest - Typical
3 - 190 REAR AXLE - 286RBIBR/BE
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 7
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

(4) Have helper press and hold brake pedal to floor
and observe warning light.
(a) If warning light illuminates, switch is operat-
ing correctly.
(b) If light fails to illuminate, check circuit fuse,
bulb, and wiring. The parking brake switch can be
used to aid in identifying whether or not the brake
light bulb and fuse is functional. Repair or replace
parts as necessary and test differential pressure
switch operation again.
(5) If warning light still does not illuminate,
switch is faulty. Replace combination valve assembly,
bleed brake system and verify proper switch and
valve operation.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove pressure differential switch wire con-
nector (Fig. 4) from the valve.
(2) Remove the brake lines from the valve.
(3) Remove the valve mounting bolt and remove
the valve from the bracket.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the valve on the bracket and install
the mounting bolt. Tighten the mounting bolt to 23
N´m (210 in. lbs.).
(2) Install the brake lines into the valve and
tighten to 19-23 N´m (170-200 in. lbs.).
(3) Connect the pressure differential switch wire
connector.(4) Bleed base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
REMOVAL - REAR
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Compress the disc brake caliper using tool
#C4212F.
(4) Remove the caliper pin bolts.
(5) Remove the banjo bolt and discard the copper
washer.
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose with result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(6) Remove the rear disc brake caliper (Fig. 5).
REMOVAL - FRONT
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove front wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove caliper brake hose bolt, washers and
hose (Fig. 6).
(4) Remove caliper mounting bolts.
(5) Tilt the top of the caliper up and remove it
from the adapter.
(6) Remove anti-rattle springs.
NOTE: Upper and lower anti-rattle springs are not
interchangeable.
Fig. 4 Pressure
1 - COMBINATION VALVE
2 - BRAKE LINES
3 - MOUNTING BOLT
4 - PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL SWITCH
Fig. 5 REAR CALIPER
1 - Banjo Bolt
2 - Caliper Pin Bolts
5 - 10 BRAKESBR/BE
COMBINATION VALVE (Continued)

BRAKE PADS/SHOES
REMOVAL - REAR
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the rear wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Compress the caliper.
(4) Remove caliper mounting bolts
NOTE: Do not allow brake hose to support caliper
assembly.
(5) Remove the caliper, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- REMOVAL) and then tilt the top up and off the cal-
iper adapter (Fig. 35).
(6) Remove inboard brake shoe from the caliper
adapter (Fig. 36).
(7) Remove outboard brake shoe from caliper
adapter (Fig. 37).
(8) Remove the anti-rattle springs from the caliper
adapter (Fig. 38) and (Fig. 39).
NOTE: Anti-rattle springs are not interchangeable.
Fig. 35 ROTOR / PADS/ CALIPER
1 - Rotor
2 - Brake Shoes
3 - Disc Brake Caliper
Fig. 36 Inboard Brake Shoe
1 - INBOARD SHOE
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER
Fig. 37 Outboard Brake Shoe
1 - OUTBOARD SHOE
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 23

REMOVAL - FRONT
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove front wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Compress caliper.
(4) Remove caliper, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- REMOVAL).
(5) Remove caliper by tilting the top up and off the
caliper adapter (Fig. 40).
NOTE: Do not allow brake hose to support caliper
assembly.
(6) Remove inboard brake shoe from the caliper
adapter (Fig. 41).(7) Remove outboard brake shoe from caliper
adapter (Fig. 42).
(8) Remove the anti-rattle springs from the caliper
adapter (Fig. 43) and (Fig. 44).
NOTE: Anti-rattle springs are not interchangeable.
Fig. 38 Top Anti-Rattle Spring
1 - CALIPER ADAPTER
2 - ANTI-RATTLE SPRING
Fig. 39 Bottom Anti-Rattle Spring
1 - ANTI-RATTLE SPRING
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER
Fig. 40 Caliper
1 - CALIPER
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER
Fig. 41 Inboard Brake Shoe
1 - INBOARD SHOE
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER
5 - 24 BRAKESBR/BE
BRAKE PADS/SHOES (Continued)

(7) Remove adjuster cable. Slide cable eye off
anchor pin. Then unhook and remove cable from
adjuster lever.
(8) Remove cable guide from secondary shoe and
anchor plate from anchor pin.
(9) Remove adjuster lever. Disengage lever from
spring by sliding lever forward to clear pivot and
work lever out from under spring.
(10) Remove adjuster lever spring from pivot.
(11) Disengage and remove shoe to shoe spring
from brake shoes.
(12) Disengage and remove adjuster screw assem-
bly from brake shoes.
(13) Remove brake shoe retainers, springs (Fig.
46).
(14) Remove secondary brake shoe from support
plate.
(15) Remove strut and spring (Fig. 46).
(16) Remove parking brake lever retaining clip
from the secondary shoe and remove the lever.
(17) Remove primary shoe from support plate.
(18) Disengage parking brake lever from parking
brake cable.
(19) Remove parking brake cable guide spring.
REMOVAL - 12 1/8 INCH
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.(3) Remove clip nuts securing brake drum to wheel
studs.
(4) Remove brake drum.
(5) Vacuum brake components to remove brake lin-
ing dust.
(6) Unhook adjusting lever return spring from
lever.
(7) Remove lever and return spring from lever
pivot pin.
(8) Unhook adjuster lever from adjuster cable
assembly.
(9) Remove shoe-to-shoe upper spring (Fig. 47).
(10) Remove shoe hold-down springs (Fig. 48).
(11) Disconnect parking brake cable from parking
brake lever.
(12) Remove shoe-to-shoe lower spring and
adjuster assembly .
(13) Remove brake shoes (Fig. 49).
INSTALLATION - REAR
(1) Clean caliper mounting adapter and anti-rattle
springs.
(2) Lubricate anti-rattle springs with Mopar brake
grease.
(3) Install anti-rattle springs.
NOTE: Anti-rattle springs are not interchangeable.
(4) Install inboard brake shoe in adapter.
(5) Install outboard brake shoe in adapter.
(6) Tilt the bottom of the caliper over rotor and
under adapter. Then push the top of the caliper down
onto the adapter.
Fig. 46 Shoe Retainers, Springs and Pins
1 - SECONDARY SHOE AND LINING
2 - STRUT AND SPRING
3 - SPRING
4 - PIN
5 - RETAINER
6 - PRIMARY SHOE AND LINING
7 - TOOL C-4070
Fig. 47 Upper Spring
5 - 26 BRAKESBR/BE
BRAKE PADS/SHOES (Continued)

(7) Install caliper, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- INSTALLATION) (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAU-
LIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS -
INSTALLATION).
(8) Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower
vehicle, (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(9) Apply brakes several times to seat caliper pis-
tons and brake shoes and obtain firm pedal.(10) Top off master cylinder fluid level.
INSTALLATION - FRONT
(1) Bottom pistons in caliper bore with C-clamp.
Place an old brake shoe between a C-clamp and cal-
iper piston.
(2) Clean caliper mounting adapter and anti-rattle
springs.
(3) Lubricate anti-rattle springs with Mopar brake
grease.
(4) Install anti-rattle springs.
NOTE: Anti-rattle springs are not interchangeable.
(5) Install inboard brake shoe in adapter.
(6) Install outboard brake shoe in adapter.
(7) Tilt the bottom of the caliper over rotor and
under adapter. Then push the top of the caliper down
onto the adapter.
(8) Install caliper, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- INSTALLATION).
(9) Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower
vehicle, (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(10) Apply brakes several times to seat caliper pis-
tons and brake shoes and obtain firm pedal.
(11) Top off master cylinder fluid level.
INSTALLATION - REAR BRAKE SHOES-11 inch
(1) Clean and inspect individual brake compo-
nents, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/ME-
CHANICAL/DRUM - CLEANING).
(2) Lubricate anchor pin and brake shoe contact
pads on support plate with high temperature grease
or Lubriplate (Fig. 50).
Fig. 48 Shoe Hold-Down Springs
Fig. 49 Brake Shoe Removal
Fig. 50 Shoe Contact Surfaces
1 - ANCHOR PIN
2 - SUPPORT PLATE
3 - SHOE CONTACT SURFACES
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 27
BRAKE PADS/SHOES (Continued)