service DODGE RAM 2001 Service Workshop Manual

PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/
TONE RING
REMOVAL
NOTE: The ring and pinion gears are service in a
matched set. Do not replace the ring gear without
replacing the matched pinion gear.
(1) Remove differential from axle housing.
(2) Place differential case in a vise with soft metal
jaw protectors. (Fig. 44)
(3) Remove bolts holding ring gear to differential
case.
(4) Drive ring gear from differential case with a
soft hammer (Fig. 44).
(5) Use a brass drift and slowly tap the exciter
ring from the differential case.
(6) Mark pinion yoke and propeller shaft for
installation alignment.
(7) Disconnect propeller shaft from pinion yoke.
Tie propeller shaft to underbody.
(8) Using Yoke Holder 6719 to hold yoke, remove
pinion yoke nut and washer.
(9) Remove pinion yoke from pinion with Remover
C-452 and Wrench C-3281, shaft (Fig. 45).
(10) Remove pinion gear from housing (Fig. 46).
(11) Remove pinion seal with a slide hammer or
pry bar.
(12) Remove oil slinger, if equipped, and the front
pinion bearing.
Fig. 42 Differential Bearing Removal
1 - BRIDGE 938
2 - TOOL 1130
3 - DIFFERENTIAL
Fig. 43 Install Differential Side Bearings
1 - HANDLE C-4171
2 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
3 - BEARING
4 - TOOL C-4190
Fig. 44 Ring Gear Removal
1 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
2 - RING GEAR
3 - HAMMER
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 286RBI 3 - 193
DIFFERENTIAL CASE BEARINGS (Continued)

(4) Remove the rotor from the hub/bearing wheel
studs.
REMOVAL - 3500 FRONT
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the hub extension mounting nuts and
remove the extension from the rotor if equipped.
(4) Remove the brake caliper adapter assembly.
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the rotor assembly.
INSTALLATION - REAR - 2500/3500
(1) Install the hub to the rotor. Tighten the bolts to
128 N´m (95 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 33).
(2) Install the hub and rotor assembly.
(3) Install the rear axle shaft to the housing with
dual wheels, (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIV-
ELINE/REAR AXLE - 286RBI/AXLE SHAFTS -
INSTALLATION).
(4) Install the caliper adapter bolts.
(5) Install the disc brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION). (Fig. 34).
(6) Install the tire and wheel assembly, (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(7) Lower the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - 1500/2500 FRONT
(1) On models with all-wheel antilock system
(ABS), check condition of tone wheel on hub/bearing.
If teeth on wheel are damaged, hub/bearing assembly
will have to be replaced (tone wheel is not serviced
separately).
(2) Install rotor onto the hub/bearing wheel studs.
(3) Install the caliper adapter assembly,(Refer to 5
- BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION) and tighten
adapter bolts to:
²LD 1500: 176 N´m (130 ft lbs.)
²HD 2500: 285 N´m (210 ft lbs.)
(4) Install the wheel and tire assembly, (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE) and lower vehicle.
(5) Apply brakes several times to seat brake shoes.
Be sure to obtain firm pedal before moving vehicle.
INSTALLATION - 3500 FRONT
(1) Position the rotor on the hub/bearing.
(2) Install the brake caliper adapter assembly
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION) and
tighten adapter bolts to 285 N´m (210 ft. lbs).
(3) Install the wheel and tire assemblies, (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(4) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
(5) Apply brakes several times to seat brake shoes
and caliper piston. Do not move vehicle until firm
brake pedal is obtained.
Fig. 33 ROTOR TO HUB
1 - Hub Bolts
2 - Socket
Fig. 34 ROTOR INSTALLED
5 - 22 BRAKESBR/BE
ROTORS (Continued)

(6) Position adjuster lever return spring on pivot.
(7) Install adjuster lever.
(8) Attach adjuster cable to adjuster lever. Be sure
cable is properly routed.
(9) Adjust brake shoes to drum with brake gauge.
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
A two-piece master cylinder is used on all models.
The cylinder body containing the primary and sec-
ondary pistons is made of aluminum. The removable
fluid reservoir is made of nylon reinforced with glass
fiber. The reservoir stores reserve brake fluid for the
hydraulic brake circuits. The reservoir is the only
serviceable component.
The fluid compartments of the nylon reservoir are
interconnected to permit fluid level equalization.
However, the equalization feature does not affect cir-
cuit separation in the event of a front or rear brake
malfunction. The reservoir compartments will retain
enough fluid to operate the functioning hydraulic cir-
cuit.
Care must be exercised when removing/installing
the master cylinder connecting lines. The threads in
the cylinder fluid ports can be damaged if care is not
exercised. Start all brake line fittings by hand to
avoid cross threading.
The cylinder reservoir can be replaced when neces-
sary. However, the aluminum body section of the
master cylinder is not a repairable component.
NOTE: If diagnosis indicates that an internal mal-
function has occurred, the aluminum body section
must be replaced as an assembly.
OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 54).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 55).
Fig. 53 Hold-Down Spring And Pin Attachment
1 - SHOE HOLD DOWN SPRING
2 - HOLD DOWN PIN
3 - BACKING PLATE
4 - BRAKE SHOE WEB
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 29
BRAKE PADS/SHOES (Continued)

CABLE TENSIONER
ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Tensioner adjustment is only necessary
when the tensioner, or a cable has been replaced or
disconnected for service. When adjustment is nec-
essary, perform adjustment only as described in the
following procedure. This is necessary to avoid
faulty park brake operation.
(1) Raise the vehicle.
(2) Back off the cable tensioner adjusting nut to
create slack in the cables.
(3) Remove the rear wheel/tire assemblies. Then
remove the brake drums.
(4) Verify the brakes are in good condition and
operating properly.
(5) Verify the park brake cables operate freely and
are not binding, or seized.
(6) Check the rear brake shoe adjustment with
standard brake gauge.
(7) Install the drums and verify that the drums
rotate freely without drag.
(8) Install the wheel/tire assemblies, (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(9) Lower the vehicle enough for access to the park
brake foot pedal. Then fully apply the park brakes.
NOTE: Leave park brakes applied until adjustment
is complete.
(10) Raise the vehicle again.
(11) Mark the tensioner rod 6.35 mm (1/4 in.) from
edge of the tensioner (Fig. 71).
(12) Tighten the adjusting nut on the tensioner rod
until the mark is no longer visible.
CAUTION: Do not loosen, or tighten the tensioner
adjusting nut for any reason after completing
adjustment.
(13) Lower the vehicle until the rear wheels are
15-20 cm (6-8 in.) off the shop floor.
(14) Release the park brake foot pedal and verify
that rear wheels rotate freely without drag. Then
lower the vehicle.
RELEASE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Reach under the driver side outboard end of
the instrument panel to access and unsnap the plas-
tic retainer clip that secures the park brake release
linkage rod to the park brake mechanism on the left
cowl side inner panel.
(3) Disengage the park brake release linkage rod
end from the park brake mechanism.
(4) Lift the park brake release handle to access
and unsnap the plastic retainer clip that secures the
park brake release linkage rod to the lever on the
back of the park brake release handle.
(5) Lower the park brake release handle and reach
under the driver side outboard end of the instrument
panel to disengage the park brake release linkage
rod end from the lever on the back of the park brake
release handle.
(6) Lift the park brake release handle to access the
handle mounting bracket.
Fig. 71 Adjustment Mark
1 - TENSIONER CABLE BRACKET
2 - TENSIONER
3 - CABLE CONNECTOR
4 - 6.35mm
(1/4 IN.)
5 - ADJUSTER NUT
5 - 40 BRAKESBR/BE

WARNING
WARNING:: EXERCISE CARE WHEN SERVICING
CLUTCH COMPONENTS. FACTORY INSTALLED
CLUTCH DISCS DO NOT CONTAIN ASBESTOS
FIBERS. DUST AND DIRT ON CLUTCH PARTS MAY
CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM AFTERMAR-
KET COMPONENTS. BREATHING EXCESSIVE CON-
CENTRATIONS OF THESE FIBERS CAN CAUSE
SERIOUS BODILY HARM. WEAR A RESPIRATOR
DURING SERVICE AND NEVER CLEAN CLUTCH
COMPONENTS WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR WITH
A DRY BRUSH. EITHER CLEAN THE COMPONENTS
WITH A WATER DAMPENED RAGS OR USE A VAC-
UUM CLEANER SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR
REMOVING ASBESTOS FIBERS AND DUST. DO NOT
CREATE DUST BY SANDING A CLUTCH DISC.
REPLACE THE DISC IF THE FRICTION MATERIAL IS
DAMAGED OR CONTAMINATED. DISPOSE OF ALL
DUST AND DIRT CONTAINING ASBESTOS FIBERS
IN SEALED BAGS OR CONTAINERS. THIS WILL
HELP MINIMIZE EXPOSURE TO YOURSELF AND TO
OTHERS. FOLLOW ALL RECOMMENDED SAFETY
PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY THE OCCUPATIONAL
SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION (OSHA)
AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL SAFETY AGENCY
(EPA), FOR THE HANDLING AND DISPOSAL OF
PRODUCTS CONTAINING ASBESTOS.
DIAGNOSTIC AND TESTING - CLUTCH
A road test and component inspection (Fig. 3) is
recommended to determine a clutch problem.
During a road test, drive the vehicle at normal
speeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If the clutch chat-
ters, grabs, slips or does not release properly, remove
and inspect the clutch components. If the problem is
noise or hard shifting, further diagnosis may be
needed as the transmission or another driveline com-
ponent may be at fault.
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, water or clutch fluid on the clutch
disc and pressure plate surfaces will cause chatter,
slip and grab.
During inspection, note if any components are con-
taminated with oil, hydraulic fluid or water/road
splash.
Fig. 1 Engine Powerflow
Fig. 2 Clutch Operation
1 - FLYWHEEL
2 - PRESSURE PLATE FINGERS
3 - PIVOT POINT
4 - RELEASE BEARING PUSHED IN
5 - CLUTCH DISC ENGAGED
6 - CLUTCH DISC ENGAGED
7 - RELEASE BEARING
6 - 2 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH (Continued)

Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the
rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Oil leak-
age produces a residue of oil on the housing interior
and on the clutch cover and flywheel. Heat buildup
caused by slippage between the cover, disc and fly-
wheel, can sometimes bake the oil residue onto the
components. The glaze-like residue ranges in color
from amber to black.
Road splash contamination means dirt/water is
entering the clutch housing due to loose bolts, hous-
ing cracks or through hydraulic line openings. Driv-
ing through deep water puddles can force water/road
splash into the housing through such openings.
Clutch fluid leaks are usually from damaged slave
cylinder push rod seals.
IMPROPER RELEASE OR CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT
Clutch release or engagement problems are caused
by wear or damage to one or more clutch compo-
nents. A visual inspection of the release components
will usually reveal the problem part.
Release problems can result in hard shifting and
noise. Items to look for are: leaks at the clutch cylin-
ders and interconnecting line; loose slave cylinder
bolts; worn/loose release fork and pivot stud; dam-
aged release bearing; and a worn clutch disc, or pres-
sure plate.
Normal condensation in vehicles that are stored or
out of service for long periods of time can generate
enough corrosion to make the disc stick to the fly-
wheel, or pressure plate. If this condition is experi-
enced, correction only requires that the disc be
loosened manually through the inspection plate open-
ing.
Engagement problems usually result in slip, chat-
ter/shudder, and noisy operation. The primary causes
are clutch disc contamination; clutch disc wear; mis-
alignment, or distortion; flywheel damage; or a com-
bination of the foregoing. A visual inspection is
required to determine the part actually causing the
problem.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.
Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC RUNOUT
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain
another disc if runout is excessive.Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
when handling the cover and disc. Impact can distort
the cover, diaphragm spring, release fingers and the
hub of the clutch disc.
Use an alignment tool when positioning the disc on
the flywheel. The tool prevents accidental misalign-
ment which could result in cover distortion and disc
damage.
A frequent cause of clutch cover distortion (and con-
sequent misalignment) is improper bolt tightening.
CLUTCH FLYWHEEL RUNOUT
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on the rear face of the engine block.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. However,
minor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with
180 grit emery, or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal
isnot recommended.
Replace the flywheel if scoring
is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.).
Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel crack-
ing or warpage after installation; it can also weaken
the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with MopartLock And Seal. Tighten flywheel
bolts to specified torque only. Overtightening can dis-
tort the flywheel hub causing runout.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
The clutch inspection chart (Fig. 3) outlines items to
be checked before and during clutch installation. Use
the chart as a check list to help avoid overlooking
potential problem sources during service operations.
The diagnosis charts describe common clutch prob-
lems, causes and correction. Fault conditions are listed
at the top of each chart. Conditions, causes and correc-
tive action are outlined in the indicated columns.
The charts are provided as a convenient reference
when diagnosing faulty clutch operation.
6 - 4 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect bushings in clutch and brake pedals
(Fig. 33). Replace bushings if worn, cracked, or dis-
torted.(2) Lubricate pedal shaft, pedal shaft bore (Fig. 33)
and all bushings with MopartMulti Mileage, or high
temperature bearing grease.
(3) Position clutch pedal in support. Align pedal
with pivot shaft and slide shaft through pedal bush-
ings. Then repeat process for brake pedal.
(4) Slide pedal shaft through support and install
shaft retainer.
(5) Secure push rods to clutch and brake pedals.
(6) Install brake lamp switch in bracket.
(7) Install knee bolster.
LINKAGE
DESCRIPTION
The hydraulic linkage consists of a clutch master
cylinder, reservoir, a clutch slave cylinder and an
interconnecting fluid line 9 (Fig 34).
The clutch master cylinder push rod is connected
to the clutch pedal. The slave cylinder push rod is
connected to the clutch release fork. The master cyl-
inder is mounted on the driver side of the dash panel
adjacent to the brake master cylinder and booster
assembly.
The hydraulic linkage is serviced as an assembly only.
The individual components that form the linkage
assembly cannot be overhauled or serviced separately.
Fig. 32 Knee Bolster RemovalÐTypical
1 - INSTRUMENT PANEL FLANGES
2 - KNEE BOLSTER
Fig. 33 Clutch/Brake Pedal Mounting
1 - PEDAL SUPPORT
2 - SHAFT RETAINER
3 - BRAKE PEDAL
4 - CLUTCH PEDAL
5 - SHAFT RETAINER
6 - PEDAL PIVOT SHAFT
7 - BUSHINGS
Fig. 34 Clutch
1 - DASH PANEL
2 - CYLINDER RESERVOIR
3 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
4 - SLAVE CYLINDER
5 - CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINE
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 19
CLUTCH PEDAL (Continued)

The clutch fluid reservoir, master cylinder, slave
cylinder and fluid lines are pre-filled with fluid at
the factory during assembly operations.
The hydraulic system should not require additional
fluid under normal circumstances.The reservoir
fluid level will actually increase as normal
clutch wear occurs. Avoid overfilling, or remov-
ing fluid from the reservoir.
Clutch fluid level is checked at the master cylinder
reservoir. An indicator ring is provided on the outside
of the reservoir. With the cap and diaphragm
removed, fluid level should not be above indicator
ring.
To avoid contaminating the hydraulic fluid during
inspection, wipe reservoir and cover clean before
removing the cap.
OPERATION
The clutch linkage uses hydraulic pressure to oper-
ate the clutch. Depressing the clutch pedal develops
fluid pressure in the clutch master cylinder. This
pressure is transmitted to the slave cylinder through
a connecting line. In turn, the slave cylinder operates
the clutch release lever.
The slave cylinder has an integral spring which
preloads the release bearing against the clutch dia-
phragm fingers to maintain zero free-play.
Slave cylinder force causes the release lever to
move the release bearing into contact with the dia-
phragm spring. As additional force is applied, the
bearing presses the diaphragm spring fingers inward
on the fulcrums. This action moves the pressure
plate rearward relieving clamp force on the disc.
REMOVAL
The factory installed hydraulic linkage has a quick
disconnect at the slave cylinder. This fitting should
not be disconnected or tampered with. The hydraulic
linkage is serviced as an assembly only, but it comes
as two pieces to ease installation. Once the clutch
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
should not be disconnected. The individual compo-
nents that form the linkage assembly cannot be over-
hauled or serviced separately.
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove nuts attaching slave cylinder to studs
on clutch housing (Fig. 35).
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing.
(4) Remove the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel from the lower dash panel
flange.
(5) Remove the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel from the upper dash panel
stud.
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Disconnect clutch pedal interlock switch wires.(8) Remove retaining clip (Fig. 36).
(9) Slide clutch master cylinder push rod off pedal
pin.
(10) Inspect condition of bushing in the clutch
master cylinder pushrod (Fig. 36). Replace the clutch
hydraulic linkage if bushing is worn or damaged.
(11) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder res-
ervoir is tight. This will avoid spillage during
removal.
(12) Remove the nuts holding the clutch master
cylinder to the dash panel.
(13) Remove screws that attach clutch fluid reser-
voir to dash panel.
(14) Remove the clutch master cylinder from the
dash panel.
(15) Remove clutch cylinders, reservoir and con-
necting lines from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
The factory installed hydraulic linkage has a quick
disconnect at the slave cylinder. This fitting should
not be disconnected or tampered with. The hydraulic
linkage is serviced as an assembly only, but it comes
as two pieces to ease installation. Once the clutch
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
Fig. 35 Clutch Hydraulic Linkage
1 - DASH PANEL
2 - CYLINDER RESERVOIR
3 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
4 - SLAVE CYLINDER
5 - CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINE
6 - 20 CLUTCHBR/BE
LINKAGE (Continued)

should not be disconnected. The individual compo-
nents that form the linkage assembly cannot be over-
hauled or serviced separately.
(1) Tighten cap on clutch fluid reservoir to avoid
spillage during installation.
(2) Position cylinders, connecting lines and reser-
voir in vehicle engine compartment. Locate the clutch
hydraulic line against the dash panel and behind all
engine hoses and wiring.
(3) Insert clutch master cylinder in dash panel.
Install and tighten the nuts to hold the clutch master
cylinder to the dash panel.
(4) Apply a light coating of grease to the inside
and outside diameter of the master cylinder bushing.
(5) Install clutch master cylinder push rod on
clutch pedal pin. Secure rod with retaining clip.
(6) Connect clutch pedal position (interlock) switch
wires.(7) Position clutch fluid reservoir on dash panel
and install reservoir screws. Tighten screws to 5 N´m
(40 in. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel into the lower dash panel
flange.
(9) Install the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel onto the upper dash panel
stud.
(10) Raise vehicle.
(11) Install slave cylinder. Be sure cap at end of
cylinder rod is seated in release lever. Check this
before installing cylinder attaching nuts.
NOTE: If new linkage is being installed, do not
remove the plastic shipping strap from slave cylin-
der push rod. The shipping strap will break on its
own upon the first clutch application.
(12) Install and tighten slave cylinder attaching
nuts to 23 N´m (200 in. lbs.) torque.
(13) If a new clutch linkage is being installed, con-
nect the clutch hydraulic line (Fig. 37) to the clutch
slave cylinder.
(14) Lower vehicle.
(15) Operate linkage several times to verify proper
operation.
Fig. 36 Clutch Cylinder Push Rod Attachment
1 - PIN
2 - CLUTCH INTERLOCK WIRE
3 - PUSH ROD
4 - CLIP
Fig. 37 Clutch Slave Cylinder
1 - CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINE
2 - CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 21
LINKAGE (Continued)

CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
A clutch pedal position (interlock) switch is in the
starter relay circuit and is mounted on the clutch
master cylinder push rod (Fig. 38). The switch is
actuated by clutch pedal movement.
OPERATION
The switch, which is in circuit with the starter
solenoid, requires that the clutch pedal be fully
depressed in order to start the engine. Switch cir-
cuitry and operation is provided in section 8W of
Group 8.
The position switch is an integral part of the clutch
master cylinder push rod and is not serviced
separately.
Fig. 38 Clutch Pedal Position (Interlock) Switch
1 - PIN
2 - CLUTCH INTERLOCK WIRE
3 - PUSH ROD
4 - CLIP
6 - 22 CLUTCHBR/BE