lock DODGE RAM 2002 Service Workshop Manual

(3) Replace one of the flywheel bolts with an
appropriate size threaded rod that is 10 in. (25.4 cm)
long (Fig. 11). The rod will be used to mount the dial
indicator.
(4) Remove release fork from the clutch housing.
(5) Install clutch housing. Tighten the housing
bolts nearest the alignment dowels first.
(6) Mount dial indicator on the threaded rod and
position indicator plunger on the clutch housing bore
(Fig. 12).
(7) Rotate crankshaft until indicator plunger is at
the topof the housing bore. Zero the indicator at this
point.(8) Rotate crankshaft and record indicator read-
ings at eight points (45É apart) around the bore (Fig.
13). Take measurement at least twice for accuracy.
(9) Subtract each reading from the one 180É oppo-
site to determine runout and direction. Bore runout
example (Fig. 13):
²0.000 ± (±0.007) = 0.007 in.
²+0.002 ± (±0.010) = 0.012 in.
²+0.004 ± (±0.005) = 0.009 in.
²±0.001 ± (+0.001) = ±0.002 in.
In this example the largest or total indicator read-
ing (TIR) difference is 0.012 inch. This means the
housing bore is offset from the crankshaft centerline
by 0.006 in. which is 1/2 of 0.012 inch. The dowels
needed to correct this have an offset of 0.007 in. (Fig.
14).
Remove housing and install dowels with the slotted
side facing out so they can be turned with a screw-
driver. Then install the housing and mount the dial
indicator and check bore runout again. Rotate the
dowels until the TIR is less than 0.010 inch.
Clutch Housing Face Runout
(1) Position dial indicator towards the housing face
(Fig. 15) with indicator plunger on the rim of the
housing bore.
(2) Rotate crankshaft until indicator plunger is at
the 10 O'clock position and zero the dial indicator.
(3) Measure and record face runout readings at
four points 90É apart (Fig. 16). Take measurement at
least twice for accuracy.
(4) Subtract lowest reading from highest to deter-
mine total runout. If low reading wasminus0.004
in. and highest reading wasplus0.009 in. the total
runout is 0.013 inch.
NOTE: Maximum acceptable face runout is 0.010
inch.
Fig. 11 Dial Indicator Mounting Stud Or Rod
1 - 7/16 - 20 THREAD
2 - NUT
3 - STUD OR THREADED ROD
4 - 10 INCHES LONG
Fig. 12 CLUTCH HOUSING BORE RUNOUT
1 - MOUNTING STUD OR ROD
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
3 - INDICATOR PLUNGER
4 - CLUTCH HOUSING BORE
Fig. 13 MEASUREMENT POINTS AND READINGS
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING BORE CIRCLE
6 - 10 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH HOUSING (Continued)

To correct this example (Fig. 16) the shims needed
between the clutch housing and transmission are:
²0.009 in. at the 0.000 corner
²0.012 in. at the ±0.003 corner
²0.013 in. at the ±0.004 corner
After installing the clutch assembly and housing,
tighten the housing bolts nearest the alignment dow-
els first.NOTE: Shims can be made from shim stock or sim-
ilar materials of the required thickness (Fig. 17).
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove transmission and transfer case, if
equipped. Refer to 21 Transmission and Transfer
Case for proper procedures.
(3) Remove the starter from the clutch housing.
(4) Remove the clutch housing dust shield from the
clutch housing.
(5) Remove clutch housing bolts and remove hous-
ing from engine (Fig. 18) and (Fig. 19).
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean housing mounting surface of engine
block with wax and grease remover.
(2) Verify that clutch housing alignment dowels
are in good condition and properly seated.
Fig. 14 Housing Bore Alignment Dowel Selection
1 - SLOT DIRECTION OF OFFSET
2 - OFFSET DOWEL
TIR VALUE OFFSET DOWEL REQUIRED
0.011 - 0.021 inch 0.007 inch
0.022 - 0.035 inch 0.014 inch
0.036 - 0.052 inch 0.021 inch
Fig. 15 DIAL INDICATOR LOCATION
1 - INDICATOR PLUNGER
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
3 - CLUTCH HOUSING FACE
4 - INDICATOR MOUNTING STUD OR ROD
Fig. 16 MEASUREMENT POINTS AND READINGS
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING FACE CIRCLE (AT RIM OF BORE)
Fig. 17 ALIGNMENT SHIMS
1 - CUT/DRILL BOLT HOLE TO SIZE
2 - SHIM STOCK
3 - MAKE SHIM 1-INCH DIAMETER
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 11
CLUTCH HOUSING (Continued)

(3) Transfer slave cylinder, release fork and boot,
fork pivot stud and wire/hose brackets to new hous-
ing.
(4) Lubricate release fork and pivot contact sur-
faces with Mopar High Temperature wheel bearing
grease or equivalent before installation.
(5) Align and install clutch housing on transmis-
sion (Fig. 19). Tighten housing bolts closest to align-
ment dowels first and to the following torque values:
²1/4in. diameter ªAº bolts - 4.5 N´m (40 in.lb.).
²3/8in. diameter ªAº bolts - 47.5 N´m (35 ft.lb.).
²7/16in. diameter ªAº bolts - 68 N´m (50 ft.lb.).
²ªBº bolts for 5.2L/5.9L applications - 41 N´m (30
ft.lb.).
²ªBº bolts for 5.9L TD/8.0L applications - 47.5
N´m (35 ft.lb.).
²ªCº bolts for 5.2/5.9L applications - 68 N´m (50
ft.lb.).
²ªCº bolts for 5.9L TD applications - 47.5 N´m (35
ft.lb.).
²ªCº bolts for 8.0L applications - 74.5 N´m (55
ft.lb.).
(6) Install transmission-to-engine strut after
installing clutch housing. Tighten bolt attaching
strut to clutch housing first and engine bolt last.
(7) Install the starter to the clutch housing.
(8) Install the clutch housing dust shield to the
clutch housing. Tighten the bolts to
(9) Install transmission and transfer case, if
equipped. Refer to 21Transmission and Transfer Case
for proper procedures.
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission and transfer case, if
equipped. Refer to 21 Transmission and Transfer
Case forprocedures.
(2) Remove clutch housing, for NV4500 equipped
vehicles.
(3) Disconnect release bearing from release fork
and remove bearing (Fig. 20).
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Inspect bearing slide surface on transmis-
sion front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide
surface is scored, worn or cracked. Inspect release
lever and pivot stud. Be sure stud is secure and in
good condition. Be sure fork is not distorted or
worn. Replace fork spring clips if bent or damaged.
(1) Lubricate input shaft splines, bearing retainer
slide surface, lever pivot ball stud and release lever
pivot surface with Mopar high temperature bearing
grease or equilvalent.
Fig. 18 Transmission/Clutch Housing - NV4500
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING
2 - TRANSMISSION
Fig. 19 Clutch Housing Installation - NV4500
1 - ENGINE BLOCK
2 - CLUTCH DISC AND COVER
3 - CLUTCH HOUSING
4 - DUST COVER
6 - 12 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH HOUSING (Continued)

(2) Install release fork and release bearing (Fig.
21) and verify fork and bearing are secured by spring
clips. Also be sure that the release fork is installed
properly.
NOTE: The rear side of the release lever has one
end with a raised area. This raised area goes
toward the slave cylinder side of the transmission.
(3) Install clutch housing, if removed.(4) Install transmission and transfer case, if
equipped. Refer to 21 Transmission and Transfer
Case for procedures.
FLYWHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLYWHEEL
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the teeth are worn or damaged, the fly-
wheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is
the recommended repair. In cases where a new fly-
wheel is not readily available, (V10/Diesel Engine
only) a replacement ring gear can be installed. The
following procedure must be observed to avoid
damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES WHILE CUTTING RING GEAR.
Fig. 20 Clutch Release Components
1 - CONED WASHER
2 - CLUTCH HOUSING
3 - RELEASE FORK
4 - RELEASE BEARING AND SLEEVE
5 - PIVOT 23 N´m (200 IN. LBS.)
6 - SPRING
Fig. 21 Clutch Release Fork
1 - PIVOT BALL
2 - FORK
3 - SLAVE CYLINDER OPENING
4 - BEARING
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 13
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (Continued)

CLUTCH PEDAL
REMOVAL
(1) Remove knee bolster for access to pedal pivot
shaft.
(2) Remove brake lamp switch.
(3) Remove retaining clips that secure the brake
and clutch pedals to the push rods (Fig. 23).
(4) Remove the brake and clutch master cylinder
pushrods from the pedals.
(5) Remove retainer from passenger side of pedal
pivot shaft (Fig. 24).
(6) Push pedal pivot shaft toward driver side of
support only enough to remove clutch pedal. It is not
necessary to remove shaft from pedal support
entirely.
(7) Remove clutch pedal.
INSTALLATION
Inspect bushings in clutch and brake pedals (Fig.
24). Replace bushings if worn, cracked, or distorted.
(1) Lubricate pedal shaft, pedal shaft bore (Fig. 24)
and all bushings with Mopar Multi Mileage or high
temperature bearing grease.
(2) Position clutch pedal in support. Align pedal
with pivot shaft and slide shaft through pedal bush-
ings. Then repeat process for brake pedal.(3) Slide pedal shaft through support and install
shaft retainer.
(4) Secure push rods to clutch and brake pedals.
(5) Install brake lamp switch in bracket.
(6) Install knee bolster.
LINKAGE
REMOVAL
NOTE: The factory installed hydraulic linkage has a
quick disconnect at the slave cylinder. This fitting
should not be disconnected, the hydraulic linkage
is serviced as an assembly only, but it comes as
two pieces to ease installation. Once the clutch
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
should not be disconnected.
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove nuts attaching slave cylinder to studs
on clutch housing (Fig. 25).
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing.
(4) Remove the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel from the lower dash panel
flange.
Fig. 23 Clutch Cylinder And Push Rod
1 - PIN
2 - CLUTCH INTERLOCK WIRE
3 - PUSH ROD
4 - CLIP
Fig. 24 Clutch/Brake Pedal Mounting
1 - PEDAL SUPPORT
2 - SHAFT RETAINER
3 - BRAKE PEDAL
4 - CLUTCH PEDAL
5 - SHAFT RETAINER
6 - PEDAL PIVOT SHAFT
7 - BUSHINGS
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 15

(5) Remove the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel from the upper dash panel
stud.
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Disconnect clutch pedal interlock switch wires.
(8) Remove retaining clip (Fig. 26).
(9) Slide clutch master cylinder push rod off pedal
pin.
(10) Inspect condition of bushing in the clutch
master cylinder pushrod (Fig. 26). Replace the clutch
hydraulic linkage if bushing is worn or damaged.
(11) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder res-
ervoir is tight. This will avoid spillage during
removal.
(12) Remove the nuts holding the clutch master
cylinder to the dash panel.
(13) Remove screws that attach clutch fluid reser-
voir to dash panel.
(14) Remove the clutch master cylinder from the
dash panel.
(15) Remove clutch cylinders, reservoir and con-
necting lines from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The factory installed hydraulic linkage has a
quick disconnect at the slave cylinder, this fitting
should not be disconnected. The hydraulic linkage
is serviced as an assembly only, but it comes as
two pieces to ease installation. Once the clutch
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
should not be disconnected.
(1) Tighten cap on clutch fluid reservoir to avoid
spillage during installation.
(2) Position cylinders, connecting lines and reser-
voir in vehicle engine compartment. Locate the clutch
hydraulic line against the dash panel and behind all
engine hoses and wiring.
(3) Insert clutch master cylinder in dash panel.
Install and tighten the nuts to hold the clutch master
cylinder to the dash panel.
(4) Apply a light coating of grease to the inside
and outside diameter of the master cylinder bushing.
(5) Install clutch master cylinder push rod on
clutch pedal pin. Secure rod with retaining clip.
(6) Connect clutch pedal position (interlock) switch
wires.
Fig. 25 Hydraulic Clutch Linkage
1 - DASH PANEL
2 - CYLINDER RESERVOIR
3 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
4 - SLAVE CYLINDER
5 - CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINE
Fig. 26 Clutch Cylinder Push Rod Attachment
1 - PIN
2 - CLUTCH INTERLOCK WIRE
3 - PUSH ROD
4 - CLIP
6 - 16 CLUTCHBR/BE
LINKAGE (Continued)

(7) Position clutch fluid reservoir on dash panel
and install reservoir screws. Tighten screws to 5 N´m
(40 in. lbs.).
(8) Install the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel into the lower dash panel
flange.
(9) Install the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel onto the upper dash panel
stud.
(10) Raise vehicle.
(11) Install slave cylinder. Be sure cap at end of
cylinder rod is seated in release lever. Check this
before installing cylinder attaching nuts.
NOTE: If new linkage is being installed, do not
remove the plastic shipping strap from slave cylin-
der push rod. The shipping strap will break on its
own upon the first clutch application.
(12) Install and tighten slave cylinder attaching
nuts to 23 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(13) If a new clutch linkage is being installed, con-
nect the clutch hydraulic line (Fig. 27) to the clutch
slave cylinder.
(14) Lower vehicle.
(15) Operate linkage several times to verify proper
operation.CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
A clutch pedal position (interlock) switch is in the
starter relay circuit and is mounted on the clutch
master cylinder push rod (Fig. 28). The switch is
actuated by clutch pedal movement.
OPERATION
The switch, which is in circuit with the starter
solenoid, requires that the clutch pedal be fully
depressed in order to start the engine. Switch cir-
cuitry and operation is provided in section 8W of
Group 8.
The position switch is an integral part of the clutch
master cylinder push rod and is not serviced
separately.
Fig. 27 Clutch Slave Cylinder
1 - CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINE
2 - CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER
Fig. 28 Clutch Pedal Position (Interlock) Switch
1 - PIN
2 - CLUTCH INTERLOCK WIRE
3 - PUSH ROD
4 - CLIP
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 17
LINKAGE (Continued)

hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove engine dipstick and inspect for water glob-
ules. Also inspect transmission dipstick for water
globules and transmission fluid cooler for leakage.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 110 KPA (20 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate engine without pressure cap on radiator
until thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure Tester to
filler neck. If pressure builds up quickly it indicates acombustion leak exists. This is usually the result of a
cylinder head gasket leak or crack in engine. Repair
as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates compression or
combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notremove spark plug cables or short
out cylinders to isolate compression leak.
If the needle on dial of pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat
removal. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE
COOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL). Remove
accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3
mm (1/4 in) of top of thermostat housing.
CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate
engine for an excessive period of time. Open drain-
cock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.
Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to
approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If
internal engine combustion gases are leaking into
cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bub-
bles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage
is not present.
Fig. 6 Pressure Testing Cooling SystemÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
7 - 6 COOLINGBR/BE
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
HIGH OR THE COOLANT
WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATES.
COOLANT MAY OR MAY NOT BE
LOST OR LEAKING FROM THE
COOLING SYSTEM1. Trailer is being towed, a steep
hill is being climbed, vehicle is
operated in slow moving traffic, or
engine is being idled with very high
ambient (outside) temperatures and
the air conditioning is on. Higher
altitudes could aggravate these
conditions.1. This may be a temporary
condition and repair is not
necessary. Turn off the air
conditioning and attempt to drive the
vehicle without any of the previous
conditions. Observe the temperature
gauge. The gauge should return to
the normal range. If the gauge does
not return to the normal range,
determine the cause for overheating
and repair. Refer to Possible
Causes (2-20).
2. Is the temperature gauge reading
correctly?2. Check gauge. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - SCHEMATIC -
ELECTRICAL). Repair as
necessary.
3. Is the temperature warning
illuminating unnecessarily?3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER -
SCHEMATIC - ELECTRICAL).
4. Coolant low in coolant reserve/
overflow tank and radiator?4. Check for coolant leaks and
repair as necessary. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
5. Pressure cap not installed tightly.
If cap is loose, boiling point of
coolant will be lowered. Also refer
to the following Step 6.5. Tighten cap
6. Poor seals at the radiator cap. 6. (a) Check condition of cap and
cap seals. Refer to Radiator Cap.
Replace cap if necessary.
(b) Check condition of radiator filler
neck. If neck is bent or damaged,
replace radiator.
7. Coolant level low in radiator but
not in coolant reserve/overflow
tank. This means the radiator is not
drawing coolant from the coolant
reserve/overflow tank as the engine
cools7. (a) Check condition of radiator
cap and cap seals. Refer to
Radiator Cap in this Group. Replace
cap if necessary.
(b) Check condition of radiator filler
neck. If neck is bent or damaged,
replace radiator.
(c) Check condition of the hose from
the radiator to the coolant tank. It
should fit tight at both ends without
any kinks or tears. Replace hose if
necessary.
(d) Check coolant reserve/overflow
tank and tanks hoses for blockage.
Repair as necessary.
7 - 8 COOLINGBR/BE
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
COOLANT LOSS TO THE
GROUND WITHOUT PRESSURE
CAP BLOWOFF. GAUGE READING
HIGH OR HOT1. Coolant leaks in radiator, cooling
system hoses, water pump or
engine.1. Pressure test and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
DETONATION OR PRE-IGNITION
(NOT CAUSED BY IGNITION
SYSTEM). GAUGE MAY OR MAY
NOT BE READING HIGH1. Engine overheating. 1. Check reason for overheating
and repair as necessary.
2. Freeze point of coolant not
correct. Mixture is too rich or too
lean.2. Check coolant concentration.
(Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
HOSE OR HOSES COLLAPSE
WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING1. Vacuum created in cooling
system on engine cool-down is not
being relieved through coolant
reserve/overflow system.1. (a) Radiator cap relief valve
stuck. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR PRESSURE
CAP - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
Replace if necessary
(b) Hose between coolant
reserve/overflow tank and radiator is
kinked. Repair as necessary.
(c) Vent at coolant reserve/overflow
tank is plugged. Clean vent and
repair as necessary.
(d) Reserve/overflow tank is
internally blocked or plugged. Check
for blockage and repair as
necessary.
NOISY VISCOUS FAN/DRIVE 1. Fan blades loose. 1. Replace fan blade assembly.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL)
2. Fan blades striking a surrounding
object.2. Locate point of fan blade contact
and repair as necessary.
3. Air obstructions at radiator or air
conditioning condenser.3. Remove obstructions and/or
clean debris or insects from radiator
or A/C condenser.
4. Thermal viscous fan drive has
defective bearing.4. Replace fan drive. Bearing is not
serviceable. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
5. A certain amount of fan noise
may be evident on models
equipped with a thermal viscous fan
drive. Some of this noise is normal.5. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
DESCRIPTION) for an explanation
of normal fan noise.
BR/BECOOLING 7 - 11
COOLING (Continued)