change wheel DODGE RAM 2003 Service User Guide

noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side±gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
NOTE: All driveline components should be exam-
ined before starting any repair.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
1 - HUB
2 - AXLE SHAFT
3 - VENT FITTING
4 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
5 - CUP
6 - FRONT PINION BEARING CONE
7 - NUT
8 - WASHER
9 - COMPANION FLANGE
10 - SEAL
11 - AXLE SHAFT
12 - HUB
13 - STUD
14 - BEARING CUP
15 - REAR PINION BEARING CONE
16 - DIFFERENTIAL BEARING
17 - ADJUSTER
18 - LOCK
19 - BOLT
20 - BEARING CAP
21 - CAP BOLT
22 - BEARING CUP
23 - THRUST WASHER
24 - SIDE GEAR
25 - C-LOCK
26 - DIFFERENTIAL POSITIONS
27 - THRUST WASHER
28 - COVER29 - PLUG
30 - COVER BOLT
31 - WASHER
32 - CLIP
33 - SIDE GEAR
34 - THRUST WASHER
35 - DIFFERENTIAL BEARING CONE
36 - C-LOCK
37 - BOLT
38 - LOCK
39 - BEARING CUP
40 - ADJUSTER
41 - BEARING CUP
42 - BOLT
43 - PINION MATE SHAFT
44 - EXCITER RING
45 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
46 - RING GEAR BOLT
47 - RING GEAR
48 - PINION
49 - PINION GEAR DEPTH SHIM
50 - PRELOAD COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
51 - SEAL
52 - AXLE SHAFT BEARING
53 - AXLE SHAFT TUBE
54 - AXLE TUBE
55 - AXLE SHAFT BEARING
56 - SEAL
DRREAR AXLE - 9 1/4 3 - 71
REAR AXLE - 9 1/4 (Continued)

(friction modifier) should be added after repair ser-
vice or during a lubricant change.
After changing the lubricant, drive the vehicle and
make 10 to 12 slow, figure-eight turns. This maneu-
ver will pump lubricant through the clutches. This
will correct the condition in most instances. If the
chatter persists, clutch damage could have occurred.
DIFFERENTIAL TEST
The differential can be tested without removing the
differential case by measuring rotating torque. Make
sure brakes are not dragging during this measure-
ment.
(1) Place blocks in front and rear of both front
wheels.
(2) Raise one rear wheel until it is completely off
the ground.
(3) Engine off, transmission in neutral, and park-
ing brake off.
(4) Remove wheel and bolt Special Tool 6790 or
equivalent tool to studs.
(5) Use torque wrench on special tool to rotate
wheel and read rotating torque (Fig. 37).
(6) If rotating torque is less than 41 N´m (30 ft.
lbs.) or more than 271 N´m (200 ft. lbs.) on either
wheel the unit should be serviced.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Clamp Fixture 6965 in a vise and position the
differential case on the fixture (Fig. 38).
(2) Remove ring gear if the ring gear is to be
replaced.
(3) Remove pinion gear mate shaft lock screw.
(4) Remove pinion gear mate shaft with a drift and
hammer.(5) Install and lubricate Step Plate C-6960-3 (Fig.
39).
(6) Assemble Threaded Adapter C-6960-1 into top
side gear. Thread Forcing Screw C-6960-4 into
adapter until it becomes centered in adapter plate.
Fig. 37 ROTATING TORQUE TEST
1 - SPECIAL TOOL WITH BOLT IN CENTER HOLE
2 - TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 38 DIFFERENTIAL CASE FIXTURE
1 - HOLDING FIXTURE
2 - VISE
3 - DIFFERENTIAL
Fig. 39 STEP PLATE
1 - LOWER SIDE GEAR
2 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
3 - DISC
3 - 90 REAR AXLE-91/4DR
DIFFERENTIAL-TRAC-LOK (Continued)

BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
NOTE: All driveline components should be exam-
ined before starting any repair.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Faulty, brinelled wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Shaft Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as necessary.
DRREAR AXLE - 10 1/2 AA 3 - 101
REAR AXLE - 10 1/2 AA (Continued)

(8) Install ring gear side adjuster lock and bolt. Do
not tighten adjuster lock bolt at this time.
(9) Tighten pinion gear side adjuster firmly
against the differential case bearing cup.
(10) Rotate the pinion several times to seat the dif-
ferential bearings.
(11) Loosen pinion gear side adjuster until it is no
longer in contact with the bearing cup.
(12) Tighten pinion gear side adjuster until it just
makes contact with the bearing cup.
(13) Tighten pinion gear side adjuster an addi-
tional:
²New Bearings6 Adjuster Holes
²Original Bearings4 Adjuster Holes
(14) Install pinion gear side adjuster lock and bolt.
Do not tighten adjuster lock bolt at this time.
(15) Tighten bearing cap bolts to 165 N´m (122 ft.
lbs.).
(16) Tighten adjuster lock bolts to 25 N´m (18 ft.
lbs.) (Fig. 37).
(17) Measure ring gear backlash and check gear
tooth contact pattern. Refer to Adjustments for pro-
cedure.
(18) Install axle shafts.
(19) Install differential housing gasket and cover.
Tighten cover bolts to 40 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(20) Fill axle with lubricant, refer to Lubrication &
Maintenance for capacity and lubricant type.
(21) Install fill plug and tighten to 32 N´m (24 ft.
lbs.).DIFFERENTIAL TRAC-RITE
DESCRIPTION
The Trac-RiteŸ differential is a helical gear differ-
ential. The differential has two side gears, six pinion
gears and six pinion brake shoes.
NOTE: The differential is seviced as an assembly
only if damaged, but can be disassembled for
cleaning. The assembly should be cleaned every
time a bearing is changed due to damage.
OPERATION
When one wheel begins to spin the pinion gears on
that side are forced toward the pinion brake shoes.
The pinion brake shoes then cause frictional drag on
the opposite pinion gears and the side gear. These
friction forces transfer the power to the opposite
wheel. Once the frictional forces are overcome, differ-
entiation will occur. The torque will be continually
biased by the frictional forces to the high traction
wheel.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove differential ring gear bolts.
(2) Remove differential case cover locating screws
(Fig. 38).
(3) Remove differential case cover.
(4) Remove side gear and thrust washer (Fig. 39).
Fig. 37 ADJUSTER LOCK BOLT
1 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
2 - ADJUSTER LOCK
3 - ADJUSTER LOCK BOLT
4 - BEARING CAP BOLT
Fig. 38 LOCATION SCREWS
1 - DIFFERENTIAL COVER
2 - LOCATION SCREWS
3 - 118 REAR AXLE - 10 1/2 AADR
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side±gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
NOTE: All driveline components should be exam-
ined before starting any repair.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Faulty, brinelled wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Shaft Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as necessary.
3 - 128 REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AADR
REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA (Continued)

(8) Install ring gear side adjuster lock and bolt. Do
not tighten adjuster lock bolt at this time.
(9) Tighten pinion gear side adjuster firmly
against the differential case bearing cup.
(10) Rotate the pinion several times to seat the dif-
ferential bearings.
(11) Loosen pinion gear side adjuster until it is no
longer in contact with the bearing cup.
(12) Tighten pinion gear side adjuster until it just
makes contact with the bearing cup.
(13)
Tighten pinion gear side adjuster an additional:
²New Bearings6 Adjuster Holes
²Original Bearings4 Adjuster Holes
(14) Install pinion gear side adjuster lock and bolt.
Do not tighten adjuster lock bolt at this time.
(15) Tighten bearing cap bolts to 281 N´m (207 ft.
lbs.).
(16) Tighten adjuster lock bolts to 25 N´m (18 ft.
lbs.) (Fig. 37).
(17) Measure ring gear backlash and check gear
tooth contact pattern. Refer to Adjustments for pro-
cedure.
(18) Install axle shaft gasket and install axle
shafts.
(19) Install differential housing gasket and cover.
Tighten cover bolts to 40 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(20) Fill axle with lubricant, refer to Lubrication &
Maintenance for capacity and lubricant type.
(21) Install fill plug and tighten to 32 N´m (24 ft.
lbs.).
DIFFERENTIAL TRAC-RITE
DESCRIPTION
The Trac-RiteŸ differential is a helical gear differ-
ential. The differential has two side gears, six pinion
gears and six pinion brake shoes.
NOTE: The differential is seviced as an assembly
only if damaged, but can be disassembled for
cleaning. The assembly should be cleaned every
time a bearing is changed due to damage.
OPERATION
When one wheel begins to spin the pinion gears on
that side are forced toward the pinion brake shoes.
The pinion brake shoes then cause frictional drag on
the opposite pinion gears and the side gear. These
friction forces transfer the power to the opposite
wheel. Once the frictional forces are overcome, differ-
entiation will occur. The torque will be continually
biased by the frictional forces to the high traction
wheel.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove differential ring gear bolts.
(2) Remove differential case cover locating screws
(Fig. 38).
(3) Remove differential case cover.
(4) Remove side gear and thrust washer (Fig. 39).
Fig. 37 ADJUSTER LOCK BOLT
1 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
2 - ADJUSTER LOCK
3 - ADJUSTER LOCK BOLT
4 - BEARING CAP BOLT
Fig. 38 LOCATION SCREWS
1 - DIFFERENTIAL COVER
2 - LOCATION SCREWS
DRREAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA 3 - 145
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that hasbecome covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

(3) Install the brake hose banjo bolt at the caliper
(Fig. 8).
(4) Reinstall the wheel speed sensor wire to the
brake hose (Fig. 8).
(5) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
(6) Remove the prop rod from the brake pedal.
(7) Bleed the brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
BRAKE PADS/SHOES
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Compress the caliper.
(4) Remove the caliper, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the caliper by tilting the top up and off
the caliper adapter (Fig. 10).
NOTE: Do not allow brake hose to support caliper
assembly.
(6) Support and hang the caliper. (Fig. 11)
(7) Remove the inboard brake shoe from the cali-
per adapter (Fig. 12).
(8) Remove the outboard brake shoe from the cali-
per adapter (Fig. 13).
(9) Remove the anti-rattle springs from the caliper
adapter (Fig. 14) and (Fig. 15).
NOTE: Anti-rattle springs are not interchangeable.
INSTALLATION
(1) Bottom pistons in caliper bore with C-clamp.
Place an old brake shoe between a C-clamp and cal-
iper piston.
(2) Clean caliper mounting adapter and anti-rattle
springs.
(3) Lubricate anti-rattle springs with Mopar brake
grease.
(4) Install anti-rattle springs.
NOTE: Anti-rattle springs are not interchangeable.
(5) Install inboard brake shoe in adapter.
Fig. 9 BRAKE HOSE MOUNT DRIVERS SIDE
1 - MOUNTING BOLT
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR WIRE
3 - BRAKE HOSE
Fig. 10 Caliper
1 - CALIPER
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER
Fig. 11 DISC BRAKE CALIPER - FRONT
1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
3 - CALIPER MOUNTING ADAPTER
4 - DISC BRAKE ROTOR
5 - 10 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKE LINES (Continued)

(10) Install the steering column opening cover
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEER-
ING COLUMN OPENING COVER - INSTALLA-
TION).
(11) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
DESCRIPTION
The Adjustable Pedals System (APS) is designed to
enable the fore and aft repositioning of the brake and
accelerator pedals. This results in improved ergonom-
ics in relation to the steering wheel for taller and
shorter drivers. Being able to adjust the pedal posi-
tions also allows the driver to set steering wheel tilt
and seat position to the most comfortable position.
The position of the brake and accelerator pedals can
be adjusted without compromising safety or comfort
in actuating the pedals.
Change of pedal position is accomplished by means
of a motor driven screw. Operating the adjustable
pedal switch activates the pedal drive motor (Fig.
45). The pedal drive motor turns a screw that
changes the position of the brake and accelerator
pedals. The pedal can be moved rearward (closer to
the driver) or forward (away from driver). The brake
pedal is moved on its drive screw to a position where
the driver feels most comfortable.
The accelerator pedal is moved at the same time
and the same distance as the brake pedal.
Neither the pedal drive motor (Fig. 45) nor drive
mechanism are subject to the mechanical stress of
brake or accelerator application.
²SYSTEM FEATURES:
²Range of Adjustment: The pedals may be
adjusted up to 3 in. (75 mm)
²Pedal Adjustment Speed: 0.5 in./sec (12.5
mm/sec)
²Pedal Adjustment Inhibitors: Pedal adjust-
ment is inhibited when the vehicle is in reverse or
when cruise control is activated.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Remove the kneeblocker (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN
OPENING COVER - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the brake light switch and discard
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING -
EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL).
(4) Disconnect the adjustable pedal cables from the
brake and accelerator pedals.
(5) Disconnect the electrical connector.
(6) Unclip the cable fasteners to the support.(7) Remove the one mounting bolt for the adjust-
able pedal motor (Fig. 46).
(8) Remove the adjustable pedal motor with the
cables.
NOTE: Adjustable pedal cables are not serviceable.
If they need service the adjustable pedal motor with
the cables must be installed.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Adjustable pedal cables are not serviceable.
If they need service the adjustable pedal motor with
the cables must be installed.
(1) Install the adjustable pedal motor with the
cables.
Fig. 45 ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
1 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
2 - CABLES
3 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
Fig. 46 ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
1 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
5 - 24 BRAKES - BASEDR
PEDAL (Continued)

then opens the outlet valve, which also opens the
return circuit to the accumulators. Fluid pressure is
allowed to bleed off (decrease) as needed to prevent
wheel lock.
Once the period of high wheel slip has ended, the
CAB closes the outlet valve and begins a pressure
increase or hold cycle as needed.
PRESSURE HOLD
Both solenoid valves are closed in the pressure
hold cycle but only the inlet valve is energized. Fluid
apply pressure in the control channel is maintained
at a constant rate. The CAB maintains the hold cycle
until sensor inputs indicate a pressure change is nec-
essary.
PRESSURE INCREASE
The inlet valve is open and the outlet valve is
closed during the pressure increase cycle. The pres-
sure increase cycle is used to reapply thew brakes.
This cycle controls re-application of fluid apply pres-
sure.
REMOVAL
(1) Install a prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Disconnect the battery cables from the battery.
(3) Remove the battery.
(4) Disconnect the two electrical harness connec-
tors (Fig. 5).
(5) Remove the five brake lines from the HCU
(Fig. 5).
(6) Remove HCU/CAB mounting bolts and remove
the HCU/CAB (Fig. 5).
INSTALLATION
NOTE: If the CAB is being replaced with a new CAB
is must be reprogrammed with the use of a DRB III.
(1) Install HCU/CAB on the mounts and Tighten
the bolts to 15N´m (11 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 5).
(2) Install the five brake lines to the HCU and
tighten to 19 N´m (170 in. lbs.) (Fig. 5).
(3) Install the two electrical harness connectors to
the HCU/CAB and push down on the release to
secure the connectors.
(4) Install the battery.
(5) Install the battery cables to the battery.
(6) Remove the prop rod on the brake pedal.
(7) Bleed ABS brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
RWAL VALVE
DESCRIPTION
Rear Wheel Antilock (RWAL) brake system is stan-
dard equipment on 1500 series vehicles. The RWAL
brake system is designed to prevent rear wheel
lock-up on virtually all types of road surfaces. RWAL
braking is desirable because a vehicle which is
stopped without locking the rear wheels will retain
directional stability. This allows the driver to retain
greater control of the vehicle during braking.
The valve is located on the drivers side inner
fender under the hood. The valve modulates hydrau-
lic pressure to the rear brakes.
The RWAL components include:
²RWAL Valve
²Controller Antilock brake (CAB)
²Rear Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS)
OPERATION
When the brakes are applied, hydraulic fluid is
routed from the master cylinder's secondary circuit to
the RWAL valve. From there hydraulic fluid is routed
to the rear brakes. The Controller Antilock Brake
(CAB) contains an Electronic Variable Brake Propor-
tioning (EVBP) control algorithm, which proportions
the applied braking force to the rear wheels during
braking. The EVBP function of the RWAL system
takes the place of a conventional hydraulic propor-
tioning valve. The CAB monitors the rear wheel
speed through the rear wheel speed sensor and cal-
culates an estimated vehicle deceleration. When an
established deceleration threshold is exceeded, an
isolation valve is closed to hold the applied brake
pressure to the rear brakes constant. Upon further
increases in the estimated vehicle deceleration, the
isolation valve is selectively opened to increase rear
Fig. 5 HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT
1 - HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS
5 - 44 BRAKES - ABSDR
HCU (HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT) (Continued)