wheel DODGE RAM 2003 Service Owner's Guide

(8) Align the bolt holes in the hub bearing flange
with the bolts installed in the knuckle. Then thread
the bolts into the bearing flange far enough to hold
the assembly in place.(9) Install the remaining bolts. Tighten the hub/
bearing bolts to 202 N´m (149 ft. lbs.
(10) Install the washer and axle nut and tighten a
beginning torque of 179 N´m (132 ft. lbs.).
(11) Rotate the axle 5 to 10 times to seat the hub
bearing.
(12) Tighten to a final torque of 356 N´m (263 ft.
lbs.).
(13) Align the axle nut to the next forward cotter
pin hole and install a new cotter pin in the axle nut.
(14) Install the brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION).
(15) Install the sensor wire to the steering knuckle
and frame and if equipped. Connect the wheel speed
sensor wire under the hood.
(16) Install the wheel and tire assemblies, (Refer
to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(17) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
(18) Apply the brakes several times to seat the
brake shoes and caliper piston. Do not move the vehi-
cle until a firm brake pedal is obtained.
LOWER BALL JOINT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove lower snap ring from the lower ball
joint (Fig. 11).
(2) Position special tool 8975±2 (RECEIVER) and
8975±4 (DRIVER) with tool C4212±F as shown to
remove lower ball stud (Fig. 12).
Fig. 9 Brake Shield
1 - BRAKE SHIELD
2 - HUB BEARING BOLTS
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
Fig. 10 Brake Shield With Wheel Speed Sensor
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - HUB BEARING
3 - SHIELD
Fig. 11 LOWER SNAP RING
2 - 32 FRONT - LINK/COILDR
HUB / BEARING (Continued)

SPRING
DESCRIPTION
The rear suspension system uses a multi-leaf
springs and a solid drive axle. The forward end of the
springs are mounted to the body rail hangers
through rubber bushings. The rearward end of the
springs are attached to the body by the use of shack-
les. The spring and shackles use rubber bushings.
OPERATION
The springs control ride quality and maintain vehi-
cle ride height. The shackles allow the springs to
change their length as the vehicle moves over various
road conditions.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Support the axle with a suitable holding fix-
ture.
(3) Remove the nuts, spring clamp bolts and the
plate that attach the spring to the axle (Fig. 4).
(4) Remove the nuts and bolts from the spring
front and rear shackle (Fig. 4).
(5) Remove the spring from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position spring on axle shaft tube so spring
center bolt is inserted into the locating hole in the
axle tube.
(2)
Align the front of the spring with the bolt hole in
the front bracket. Install the eye pivot bolt and nut.
(3) Align the rear of the spring into the shackle
and install the bolt and nut.
(4) Tighten the spring front and rear eye pivot bolt
snug do not torque.
(5) Install the spring clamp bolts, plate and the
retaining nuts.
(6) Remove the holding fixture for the rear axle.
(7) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle so
that the weight is being supported by the tires.
(8) Tighten the spring clamp retaining nuts to 149
N´m (110 ft. lbs.).
(9) Tighten the spring front and rear pivot bolt
nuts to 163 N´m (120 ft. lbs.).
SPRING TIP INSERTS
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove both rear tireand wheel assemblies
(3)
Position a large C-Clamp adjacent to the spring
clinch clip and clamp the leaves of the spring together
CAUTION: When working on the front leaf spring
clinch clamps finish the front before starting on the
rear to prevent personal injury.
(4) Use an appropriate pry bar to bend open the
spring clinch clip (Fig. 5). If necessary, remove the
existing spring clinch clip isolators.
Fig. 4 REAR SPRING
1 - LEAF SPRING
2 - PLATE
3 - NUTS
4 - FRONT NUT & BOLT
5 - SPRING CLAMP BOLTS
6 - SHACKLES
Fig. 5 C-CLAMP AND PRY BAR
1 - REAR LEAF SPRING CLINCH CLAMP
2-PRYBAR
3 - C-CLAMP
DRREAR 2 - 41

(6) Using large adjustable pliers, close the spring
clinch clip until the isolator contacts the leaf spring
(Fig. 10).
CAUTION: DO NOT USE A HAMMER TO CLOSE THE
SPRING CLINCH CLIP. DAMAGE TO THE ISOLATOR
MAY RESULT.
(7) Use an appropriate pry bar to bend open the
spring clinch clip. If necessary, remove the existing
spring clinch clip isolators.
(8) Repeat procedure for the other side of the vehi-
cle.
(9) Iinstall the tire wheel assemblies.
(10) Lower the vehicle.
Fig. 10 CLINCH CLIP REASSEMBLY
1 - SPRING CLINCH CLIP
2 - ADJUSTABLE PLIERS
3 - C-CLAMP
DRREAR 2 - 43
SPRING TIP INSERTS (Continued)

DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
PROPELLER SHAFT......................1
HALF SHAFT...........................11
FRONT AXLE - C205F....................18
FRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA...................45REAR AXLE-91/4.......................69
REAR AXLE - 10 1/2 AA..................100
REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA..................127
PROPELLER SHAFT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
PROPELLER SHAFT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................1
STANDARD PROCEDURE.................3
SPECIFICATIONS........................6
SPECIAL TOOLS........................6
FRONT PROPELLER SHAFT
REMOVAL.............................6
INSTALLATION..........................7
REAR PROPELLER SHAFT
REMOVAL.............................7INSTALLATION..........................8
CENTER BEARING
REMOVAL.............................8
INSTALLATION..........................8
ADJUSTMENTS.........................8
SINGLE CARDAN UNIVERSAL JOINTS
DISASSEMBLY..........................9
ASSEMBLY.............................9
PROPELLER SHAFT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
PROPELLER SHAFT VIBRATION
Tires that are out-of-round or wheels that are
unbalanced, will cause a low frequency vibration.
Brake drums that are unbalanced will cause a
harsh, low frequency vibration.Driveline vibration can also result from loose or
damaged engine mounts.
Propeller shaft vibration increases as the vehicle
speed is increased. A vibration that occurs within a
specific speed range is not usually caused by a pro-
peller shaft being unbalanced. Defective universal
joints or an incorrect propeller shaft angle are usu-
ally the cause of such a vibration.
DRDIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE 3 - 1

DRIVELINE VIBRATION
Drive Condition Possible Cause Correction
Propeller Shaft Noise 1) Undercoating or other foreign
material on shaft.1) Clean exterior of shaft and wash
with solvent.
2) Loose U-joint clamp screws. 2) Install new clamps and screws
and tighten to proper torque.
3) Loose or bent U-joint yoke or
excessive runout.3) Install new yoke.
4) Incorrect driveline angularity. 4) Measure and correct driveline
angles.
5) Rear spring center bolt not in
seat.5) Loosen spring u-bolts and seat
center bolt.
6) Worn U-joint bearings. 6) Install new U-joint.
7) Propeller shaft damaged or out
of balance.7) Installl new propeller shaft.
8) Broken rear spring. 8) Install new rear spring.
9) Excessive runout or unbalanced
condition.9) Re-index propeller shaft, test,
and evaluate.
10) Excessive drive pinion gear
shaft runout.10) Re-index propeller shaft and
evaluate.
11) Excessive axle yoke deflection. 11) Inspect and replace yoke if
necessary.
12) Excessive transfer case runout. 12) Inspect and repair as necessary.
Universal Joint Noise 1) Loose U-joint clamp screws. 1) Install new clamps and screws
and tighten to proper torque.
2) Lack of lubrication. 2) Replace as U-joints as
necessary.
PROPELLER SHAFT BALANCE
NOTE: Removing and re-indexing the propeller
shaft 180É relative to the yoke may eliminate some
vibrations.
If propeller shaft is suspected of being unbalanced,
it can be verified with the following procedure:
(1) Raise the vehicle.
(2) Clean all the foreign material from the propel-
ler shaft and the universal joints.
(3) Inspect the propeller shaft for missing balance
weights, broken welds, and bent areas.If the pro-
peller shaft is bent, it must be replaced.
(4) Inspect the universal joints to ensure that they
are not worn, are properly installed, and are cor-
rectly aligned with the shaft.
(5) Check the universal joint clamp screws torque.
(6) Remove the wheels and tires. Install the wheel
lug nuts to retain the brake drums or rotors.
(7) Mark and number the shaft six inches from the
yoke end at four positions 90É apart.(8) Run and accelerate the vehicle until vibration
occurs. Note the intensity and speed the vibration
occurred. Stop the engine.
(9) Install a screw clamp at position 1 (Fig. 1).
(10) Start the engine and re-check for vibration. If
there is little or no change in vibration, move the
clamp to one of the other three positions. Repeat the
vibration test.
(11) If there is no difference in vibration at the
other positions, the source of the vibration may not
be propeller shaft.
(12) If the vibration decreased, install a second
clamp (Fig. 2) and repeat the test.
(13) If the additional clamp causes an additional
vibration, separate the clamps (1/2 inch above and
below the mark). Repeat the vibration test (Fig. 3).
(14) Increase distance between the clamp screws
and repeat the test until the amount of vibration is
at the lowest level. Bend the slack end of the clamps
so the screws will not loosen.
3 - 2 PROPELLER SHAFTDR
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)

(15) If the vibration remains unacceptable, apply
the same steps to the front end of the propeller shaft.
(16) Install the wheel and tires. Lower the vehicle.
PROPELLER SHAFT RUNOUT
(1) Remove dirt, rust, paint and undercoating from
the propeller shaft surface where the dial indicator
will contact the shaft.
(2) The dial indicator must be installed perpendic-
ular to the shaft surface.
(3) Measure runout at the center and ends of the
shaft sufficiently far away from weld areas to ensure
that the effects of the weld process will not enter into
the measurements.
(4) Refer to Runout Specifications chart.
(5) If the propeller shaft runout is out of specifica-
tion, remove the propeller shaft, index the shaft 180É,
and re-install the propeller shaft. Measure shaft
runout again.
(6) If the propeller shaft runout is now within
specifications, mark the shaft and yokes for proper
orientation.
(7) If the propeller shaft runout is not within spec-
ifications, verify that the runout of the transmission/
transfer case and axle are within specifications.
Correct as necessary and re-measure propeller shaft
runout.
(8) Replace the propeller shaft if the runout still
exceeds the limits.
RUNOUT SPECIFICATIONS
Front of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
Center of Shaft 0.025 in. (0.63 mm)
Rear of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
note:
Measure front/rear runout approximately 3 inches (76
mm) from the weld seam at each end of the shaft
tube for tube lengths over 30 inches. For tube lengths
under 30 inches, the maximum allowed runout is
0.020 in. (0.50 mm) for the full length of the tube.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
PROPELLER SHAFT ANGLE
This procedure applies to both the front/rear pro-
peller shafts. To obtain the front output angle (A) on
the front propeller shaft, place the inclinometer the
machined surface of the C/V joint.
(1) To check driveline alignment, raise and support
the vehicle at the axles as level as possible. Allow the
wheels and propeller shaft to turn.
(2) Remove any external bearing snap rings, if
equipped from universal joint so protractor base sits
flat.
Fig. 1 CLAMP SCREW AT POSITION 1
1 - CLAMP
2 - SCREWDRIVER
Fig. 2 TWO CLAMP SCREWS
Fig. 3 CLAMP SCREWS SEPARATED
1-1¤2INCH
DRPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 3
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)

HALF SHAFT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION.............................11
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................11
REMOVAL.............................11
INSTALLATION.........................12
SPECIFICATIONS.......................12
SPECIAL TOOLS.......................12CV JOINT-OUTER
REMOVAL.............................13
INSTALLATION.........................13
CV JOINT-INNER
REMOVAL.............................16
INSTALLATION.........................16
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION
CAUTION:: Never grasp half shaft assembly by the
boots. This may cause the boot to pucker or crease
and reduce the service life of the boot.
Avoid over angulating or stroking the C/V joints
when handling the half shaft.
Half shafts exposed to battery acid, transmission
fluid, brake fluid, differential fluid or gasoline may
cause the boots to deteriorate.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Check for grease at the inboard and outboard C/V
joint. This is a sign of boot or boot clamp damage.
NOISE/VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise or a vibration in turns could be
caused by a damaged outer C/V or inner tripod joint
seal boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the
loss/contamination of the joint grease, resulting in
inadequate lubrication of the joint. Noise could also
be caused by another component of the vehicle com-
ing in contact with the half shafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a result of a damaged or worn
C/V joint. A torn boot or loose/missing clamp on the
inner/outer joint which has allowed the grease to be
lost will damage the C/V joint.
SHUDDER/VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
This problem could be a result of a worn/damaged
inner tripod joint or a sticking tripod joint. Improper
wheel alignment may also cause a shudder or vibra-
tion.
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
This problem could be a result of out of balance
front tires or tire/wheel runout. Foreign material
(mud, etc.) packed on the backside of the wheel(s)
will also cause a vibration.
REMOVAL
(1) Loosen lug nuts and hub nut while the with
the vehicle brakes applied.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove wheel and tire assembly
(4) Remove half shaft hub nut.
(5) Remove brake caliper and rotor.
(6) Position hydraulic jack under lower suspension
arm and raise jack to unload rebound bumper.
(7) Remove lower shock absorber bolt.
(8) Remove upper ball joint nut and seperate ball
with Remover 8677 (Fig. 1).
Fig. 1 UPPER BALL JOINT SEPARATION
1 - UPPER CONTROL ARM
2 - REMOVER
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
DRHALF SHAFT 3 - 11

(9) Disengage inner C/V joint from the axle shaft
snap-ring by apply pressure with two pry bars
between the C/V housing and axle housing.
(10) Tilt the knuckle out and push the half shaft
out of the knuckle (Fig. 2).
CAUTION: Do not damage outer C/V threads while
removing half shaft.
(11) Remove the half shaft from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean hub bearing bore, hub bearing mating
surface and half shaft splines.(2) Apply a light coating of grease to the front axle
shaft output splines.
(3) Install half shaft into the knuckle (Fig. 3).
(4) Install half shaft on the axle output shaft.
Push firmly to engage the axle output shaft snap
ring into the inner C/V housing.
(5) Install upper ball joint into the knuckle.
(6) Install upper ball joint nut and tighten to spec-
ification.
(7) Install lower shock absorber bolt and tighten to
specification.
(8) Install brake rotor and caliper.
(9) Install half shaft hub nut and tighten to 251
N´m (185 ft. lbs.).
(10) Install the wheel and tire assembly.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Half Shaft Nut 251 185 -
SPECIAL TOOLS
Fig. 2 STEERING KNUCKLE
1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - SHOCK
3 - HALFSHAFT
4 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
5 - HUB/BEARING
Fig. 3 HALF SHAFT AND HUB/BEARING
1 - HUB/BEARING MOUNTING NUTS
2 - HALF SHAFT
CLAMP INSTALLER C-4975A
3 - 12 HALF SHAFTDR
HALF SHAFT (Continued)

CV JOINT-OUTER
REMOVAL
(1) Clamp shaft in a vise (with soft jaws) and sup-
port C/V joint.
(2) Remove clamps with a cut-off wheel or grinder
(Fig. 4).
CAUTION: Do not damage C/V housing or half
shaft.
(3) Slide the boot down the shaft.
(4) Remove lubricant to expose the C/V joint snap
ring.
(5) Spread snap ring and slide the joint off the
shaft (Fig. 5).
(6) Slide boot off the shaft and discard old boot.
(7) Mark alignment marks on the inner race/hub,
bearing cage and housing with dabs of paint (Fig. 6).
(8) Clamp C/V joint in a vertical position in a soft
jawed vise.
(9) Press down one side of the bearing cage to gain
access to the ball at the opposite side.
NOTE: If joint is tight, use a hammer and brass drift
to loosen the bearing hub. Do not contact the bear-
ing cage with the drift.
(10) Remove ball from the bearing cage (Fig. 7).
(11) Repeat step above until all six balls are
removed from the bearing cage.
(12) Lift cage and inner race upward and out from
the housing (Fig. 8).
(13) Turn inner race 90É in the cage and rotate the
inner race/hub out of the cage (Fig. 9).
INSTALLATION
NOTE: If C/V joint is worn, replace entire C/V joint
and boot.
(1) Clean all C/V joint components and shaft.
(2) Apply a light coat of grease supplied with the
joint/boot to the C/V joint components before assem-
bling them.
(3) Align the inner race, cage and housing accord-
ing to the alignment reference marks.
(4) Insert the inner race into the cage (Fig. 10) and
rotate race into the cage.
(5) Rotate the inner race/hub in the cage (Fig. 11).
Fig. 4 BOOT CLAMP LOCATIONS
1 - C/V HOUSING
2 - CLAMP
3 - HALF SHAFT
4 - CLAMP
5 - C/V BOOT
Fig. 5 OUTER C/V JOINT
1 - SNAP RING
2 - SNAP RING GROVE
3 - SNAP RING PLIERS
Fig. 6 BEARING ACCESS
1 - ALIGNMENT MARKS
2 - BEARING HUB
3 - BEARING CAGE
4 - HOUSING
DRHALF SHAFT 3 - 13

CV JOINT-INNER
REMOVAL
(1) Clamp shaft in a vise (with soft jaws) and sup-
port C/V joint.
(2) Remove clamps with a cut-off wheel or grinder
(Fig. 16).
CAUTION: Do not damage C/V housing or half shaft
with cut-off wheel or grinder.
(3) Remove housing from the half shaft (Fig. 17)
and slide boot down shaft.
(4) Remove housing bushing from the housing.
(5) Remove tripod snap ring (Fig. 18).(6) Remove tripod and boot from the half shaft.
(7) Clean and inspect C/V components for exces-
sive wear and damage. Replace the tripod as a unit
only if necessary.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean all C/V joint components and shaft.
(2) Slidenewboot down the half shaft.
(3) Install tripod and tripod snap ring on the half
shaft (Fig. 19).
(4) Pack grease supplied with the joint/boot into
the housing and boot.
(5) Coat tripod with supplied grease.
(6) Installnewbushing (Fig. 20) onto the housing.
(7) Insert the tripod and shaft in the housing.Fig. 16 BOOT CLAMP LOCATION
1 - C/V HOUSING
2 - CLAMP
3 - BOOT
4 - CLAMP
Fig. 17 C/V HOUSING
1 - BOOT
2 - HOUSING
Fig. 18 TRIPOD SNAP RING
1 - SNAP RING
2 - TRIPOD
3 - PLIERS
Fig. 19 C/V TRIPOD
1 - BOOT
2 - TRIPOD
3 - 16 HALF SHAFTDR