check engine DODGE RAM 2003 Service Workshop Manual

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Drain the coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the power cord from the heater by
unplugging (Fig. 8).
(4) Loosen (but do not completely remove) the
screw at center of block heater (Fig. 8).
(5) Remove the block heater by carefully prying
from side-to-side. Note the direction of the heating
element coil (up or down). The element coil must be
installed correctly to prevent damage.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and inspect the block heater hole.
(2) Install the new O-ring seal(s) to heater.
(3) Insert the block heater into cylinder block and
position the element properly.
(4) With the heater fully seated, tighten center
screw to 2 N´m (17 in. lbs.).
(5) Fill the cooling system with the recommended
coolant. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(6) Start and warm the engine.
(7) Check the block heater for leaks.
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER - 5.9L
DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE ENGINE UNLESS
BLOCK HEATER CORD HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED
FROM POWER SOURCE AND SECURED IN PLACE.
THE POWER CORD MUST BE SECURED IN ITS
RETAINING CLIPS AND ROUTED AWAY FROM
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND MOVING PARTS.
An optional engine block heater is available on all
models. The heater is equipped with a power cord.
The heater is mounted in a threaded hole of the
engine cylinder block with the heating element
immersed in engine coolant. The cord is attached to
an engine compartment component with tie-straps.
The 5.9L diesel engine has the block heater located
on the right side of the engine below the exhaust
manifold next to the oil cooler (Fig. 9).
OPERATION
The heater warms the engine coolant providing
easier engine starting and faster warm-up in low
temperatures. Connecting the power cord to a
grounded 110-120 volt AC electrical outlet with a
grounded three wire extension cord provides the elec-
tricity needed to heat the element.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Drain coolant from radiator and cylinder block
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(3) Unscrew the power cord retaining cap and dis-
connect cord from heater element.
Fig. 8 Engine Block Heater
1 - FREEZE PLUG HOLE
2 - BLOCK HEATER
3 - SCREW
4 - POWER CORD (120V AC)
5 - HEATING COIL
6 - OIL FILTER
Fig. 9 Engine Block Heater±5.9L Diesel Engine
1 - BLOCK HEATER
DRENGINE 7 - 43
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER (Continued)

(4) Using a suitable size socket, loosen and remove
the block heater element (Fig. 10).
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and inspect the threads in the cylinder
block.
(2) Coat heater element threads with Mopart
Thread Sealer with Teflon.
(3) Screw block heater into cylinder block and
tighten to 43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.).
(4) Connect block heater cord and tighten retain-
ing cap.
(5) Fill cooling system with recommended coolant
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(6) Start and warm the engine.
(7) Check block heater for leaks.
ENGINE COOLANT
TEMPERATURE SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is
used to sense engine coolant temperature. The sensor
protrudes into an engine water jacket.
The ECT sensor is a two-wire Negative Thermal
Coefficient (NTC) sensor. Meaning, as engine coolant
temperature increases, resistance (voltage) in the
sensor decreases. As temperature decreases, resis-
tance (voltage) in the sensor increases.
OPERATION
At key-on, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
sends out a regulated 5 volt signal to the ECT sensor.
The PCM then monitors the signal as it passes
through the ECT sensor to the sensor ground (sensor
return).When the engine is cold, the PCM will operate in
Open Loop cycle. It will demand slightly richer air-
fuel mixtures and higher idle speeds. This is done
until normal operating temperatures are reached.
The PCM uses inputs from the ECT sensor for the
following calculations:
²for engine coolant temperature gauge operation
through CCD or PCI (J1850) communications
²Injector pulse-width
²Spark-advance curves
²ASD relay shut-down times
²Idle Air Control (IAC) motor key-on steps
²Pulse-width prime-shot during cranking
²O2 sensor closed loop times
²Purge solenoid on/off times
²EGR solenoid on/off times (if equipped)
²Leak Detection Pump operation (if equipped)
²Radiator fan relay on/off times (if equipped)
²Target idle speed
REMOVAL
3.7L V-6
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor on
the 3.7L engine is installed into a water jacket at
front of intake manifold near rear of generator (Fig.
11).
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. COOLING SYSTEM
MUST BE PARTIALLY DRAINED BEFORE REMOV-
ING THE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR.
(1) Partially drain the cooling system.
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
sensor.
(3) Remove the sensor from the intake manifold.
4.7L V-8
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. COOLING SYSTEM
MUST BE PARTIALLY DRAINED BEFORE REMOV-
ING THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT)
SENSOR.
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor on
the 4.7L V-8 engine is located near the front of the
intake manifold (Fig. 12).
(1) Partially drain the cooling system. Refer to 7,
COOLING.
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
ECT sensor.
(3) Remove the sensor from the intake manifold.
Fig. 10 Block Heater-Diesel Engine
1 - BLOCK HEATER
7 - 44 ENGINEDR
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

(6) Install the radiator upper hose to the thermo-
stat housing.
CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, the belt must be routed correctly. If not,
the engine may overheat due to the water pump
rotating in wrong direction. Refer to (Fig. 24) for the
correct 5.9L engine belt routing. The correct belt
with correct length must be used.
(7) Air Conditioned vehicles; Install the generator.
Tighten the bolts to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(8) Install the support bracket (generator mount-
ing bracket-to-intake manifold). (Fig. 19). Tighten the
bolts to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install the accessory drive belt (Fig. 20)(Refer
to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE
BELTS - INSTALLATION).
(10) Fill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Connect battery negative cable.
(12) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
ENGINE COOLANT
THERMOSTAT - 3.7L/4.7L
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: Do not operate the engine without a ther-
mostat, except for servicing or testing.
A pellet-type thermostat controls the operating
temperature of the engine by controlling the amount
of coolant flow to the radiator. On all engines the
thermostat is closed below 195ÉF (90ÉC). Above this
temperature, coolant is allowed to flow to the radia-
tor. This provides quick engine warm up and overall
temperature control. On the 3.7L4.7L engine the
thermostat is designed to block the flow of the cool-
ant bypass journal by 50% instead of completely
blocking the flow. This design controls coolant tem-
perature more accurately (Fig. 25).
The same thermostat is used for winter and sum-
mer seasons. An engine should not be operated with-
out a thermostat, except for servicing or testing.
Operating without a thermostat causes other prob-
lems. These are: longer engine warmup time, unreli-
able warmup performance, increased exhaust
Fig. 23 Thermostat PositionÐ5.9L EnginesFig. 24 Belt Routing ± 5.9L Engines
1 - IDLER PULLEY
2 - GENERATOR PULLEY
3 - A/C COMPRESSOR PULLEY
4 - IF W/OUT A/C
5 - POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY
6 - WATER PUMP PULLEY
7 - CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
8 - AUTOMATIC TENSIONER
7 - 50 ENGINEDR
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT- 5.7L/5.9L (Continued)

emissions and crankcase condensation. This conden-
sation can result in sludge formation.
OPERATION
The wax pellet is located in a sealed container at
the spring end of the thermostat. When heated, the
pellet expands, overcoming closing spring tension
and water pump pressure to force the valve to open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐTHERMOSTAT
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS
Allgasoline powered modelsare equipped with
On-Board Diagnostics for certain cooling system com-
ponents. Refer to On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) in the
Diagnosis section of this group for additional infor-
mation. If the powertrain control module (PCM)
detects low engine coolant temperature, it will record
a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in the PCM mem-
ory. Do not change a thermostat for lack of heat as
indicated by the instrument panel gauge or by poor
heater performance unless a DTC is present. Refer tothe Diagnosis section of this group for other probable
causes.
The DTC can also be accessed through the
DRBIIItscan tool. Refer to the appropriate Power-
train Diagnostic Procedures information for diagnos-
tic information and operation of the DRBIIItscan
tool.
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE COOLING SYSTEM HOT
AND PRESSURIZED. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
If the thermostat is being replaced, be sure that
the replacement is the specified thermostat for the
vehicle model and engine type.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Raise and support the vehicle.
(4) Remove the splash shield.
(5) Remove the lower radiator hose clamp and the
lower radiator hose at the thermostat housing.
(6) Remove the thermostat housing mounting
bolts, thermostat housing and thermostat (Fig. 26).
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the mating areas of the timing chain
cover and the thermostat housing.
(2) Install the thermostat (spring side down) into
the recessed machined groove on the timing chain
cover (Fig. 26).
(3) Position the thermostat housing on the timing
chain cover.
(4) Install the housing-to-timing chain cover bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 13 N´m (112 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: The housing must be tightened evenly
and the thermostat must be centered into the
recessed groove in the timimg chain cover. If not, it
may result in a cracked housing, damaged timing
chain cover threads or coolant leaks.
(5) Install the lower radiator hose on the thermo-
stat housing.
(6) Install the splash shield.
(7) Lower the vehicle.
(8) Fill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(9) Connect negative battery cable.
(10) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
Fig. 25 Thermostat Cross Section View 3.7L/4.7L
1 - FROM HEATER AND DEGAS CONTAINER
2 - FROM RADIATOR
3 - TO WATER PUMP
4 - ENGINE BYPASS
5 - THERMOSTAT
DRENGINE 7 - 51
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT - 3.7L/4.7L (Continued)

(7) Start the engine and check for coolant leaks.
Run engine to check for proper thermostat operation.
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH
DESCRIPTION
The thermal viscous fan drive (Fig. 29) is a sili-
cone-fluid- filled coupling used to connect the fan
blades to the water pump shaft. The coupling allows
the fan to be driven in a normal manner. This is
done at low engine speeds while limiting the top
speed of the fan to a predetermined maximum level
at higher engine speeds.
OPERATION
A thermostatic bimetallic spring coil is located on
the front face of the viscous fan drive unit (a typical
viscous unit is shown in (Fig. 30). This spring coil
reacts to the temperature of the radiator discharge
air. It engages the viscous fan drive for higher fan
speed if the air temperature from the radiator rises
above a certain point. Until additional engine cooling
is necessary, the fan will remain at a reduced rpm
regardless of engine speed.
Only when sufficient heat is present, will the vis-
cous fan drive engage. This is when the air flowing
through the radiator core causes a reaction to the
bimetallic coil. It then increases fan speed to provide
the necessary additional engine cooling.Once the engine has cooled, the radiator discharge
temperature will drop. The bimetallic coil again
reacts and the fan speed is reduced to the previous
disengaged speed.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - VISCOUS FAN
DRIVE
NOISE
NOTE: It is normal for fan noise to be louder (roar-
ing) when:
²The underhood temperature is above the engage-
ment point for the viscous drive coupling. This may
Fig. 28 Thermostat Removal/Installation
1 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
2 - CYLINDER HEAD
3 - THERMOSTAT
Fig. 29 Viscous Fan
1 - WATER PUMP BYPASS HOSE
2 - FAN BLADE ASSEMBLY
3 - VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
4 - WATER PUMP AND PULLEY
Fig. 30 Viscous Fan DriveÐTypical
1 - VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
2 - THERMOSTATIC SPRING
3 - MOUNTING NUT TO WATER PUMP HUB
7 - 54 ENGINEDR
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

(12) Install coolant reserve/overflow container or
degas container to fan shroud and tighten the bolts
to 8.5 N´m (75 in. lbs.).
(13) Connect upper radiator hose and install
clamp.
(14) Install battery negative cable.
(15) Fill cooling system with coolant (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(16) Operate the engine until it reaches normal
operating temperature. Check cooling system fluid
levels.
RADIATOR - 5.9L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
The radiator is a aluminum cross-flow design with
horizontal tubes through the radiator core and verti-
cal plastic side tanks (Fig. 35).
This radiator does not contain an internal trans-
mission oil cooler
OPERATION
The radiator supplies sufficient heat transfer using
the cooling fins interlaced between the horizontal
tubes in the radiator core to cool the engine.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐRADIATOR
COOLANT FLOW
Use the following procedure to determine if coolant
is flowing through the cooling system.
(1) Idle engine until operating temperature is
reached. If the upper radiator hose is warm to the
touch, the thermostat is opening and coolant is flow-
ing to the radiator.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. USING A RAG TO
COVER THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, OPEN
RADIATOR CAP SLOWLY TO THE FIRST STOP. THIS
WILL ALLOW ANY BUILT-UP PRESSURE TO VENT
TO THE RESERVE/OVERFLOW TANK. AFTER PRES-
SURE BUILD-UP HAS BEEN RELEASED, REMOVE
CAP FROM FILLER NECK.
(2) Drain a small amount of coolant from the radi-
ator until the ends of the radiator tubes are visible
through the filler neck. Idle the engine at normal
operating temperature. If coolant is flowing past the
exposed tubes, the coolant is circulating.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect both battery negative cables.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
(2) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER HPC-20)
MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS. ALWAYS
WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVICING CON-
STANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with a matching number or letter.
(3) Remove air box and turbocharger inlet tube.
(4) Remove coolant tank hose, washer bottle hose
and the positive battery cable from the fastening
clips located on top of the radiator.
(5) Remove hose clamps and hoses from radiator.
Fig. 35 Radiator Ð Typical
1 - SCREW
2 - SCREW
3 - LOWER MOUNT
4 - RADIATOR
5 - DRAINCOCK
6 -LOWER MOUNT
DRENGINE 7 - 59
RADIATOR (Continued)

(6) Remove the power steering cooler mounting
bolts and position the power steering cooler out of
the way.
(7) Disconnect the transmission cooler lines at the
transmission. The transmission cooler will remain on
the radiator and can be removed as an assembly.
(8) Remove the lower shroud assembly and the
electronic viscous fan wiring from the upper shroud
assembly.
(9) Remove the two radiator upper mounting bolts
(Fig. 36).
(10) Lift radiator straight up and out of engine
compartment. The bottom of the radiator is equipped
with two alignment dowels that fit into holes in the
lower radiator support panel. Rubber biscuits (insu-
lators) are installed to these dowels. Take care not to
damage cooling fins or tubes on the radiator and air
conditioning condenser when removing.
CLEANING
Clean radiator fins are necessary for good heat
transfer. The radiator and oil cooler fins should be
cleaned when an accumulation of debris has
occurred. With the engine cold, apply cold water and
compressed air to the back (engine side) of the radi-
ator to flush the radiator and/or oil coolers of debris.
INSPECTION
Inspect the radiator side tanks for cracks, broken
or missing fittings also inspect the joint where the
tanks seam up to the radiator core for signs of leak-
age and/or deteriorating seals.
Inspect radiator core for corroded, bent or missing
cooling fins. Inspect the core for bent or damaged
cooling tubes.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install rubber insulators to alignment dowels
at lower part of radiator.
(2) Lower the radiator into position while guiding
the two alignment dowels into lower radiator sup-
port. Different alignment holes are provided in the
lower radiator support for each engine application.
(3) Install two upper radiator mounting bolts.
Tighten bolts to 11 N´m (95 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Connect both radiator hoses and install hose
clamps.
(5) Connect transmission cooler lines to radiator
tank. Inspect quick connect fittings for debris and
install until an audible ªclickº is heard. Pull apart to
verify connection.
(6) Position power steering cooler on the radiator
and tighten nuts to 8.5M´N (75 in. lbs.)
(7) Attach electronic viscous fan wiring to upper
shroud ands install lower shroud.
(8) Position coolant recover tank hose, washer bot-
tle hose and the positive battery cable into the clips
located on the top of the radiator.
(9) Install air box and turbocharger inlet hose.
Tighten clamps to 4 N´M (35 in. lbs.).
(10) Position heater controls tofull heatposition.
(11) Fill cooling system with coolant (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(12) Operate engine until it reaches normal tem-
perature. Check cooling system and automatic trans-
mission (if equipped) fluid levels.
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
DESCRIPTION
All cooling systems are equipped with a pressure
cap (Fig. 37). For 5.9L engines, the pressure cap is
located on top of the radiator outlet tank. For the
3.7L/4.7L engines, the pressure cap is located on top
of the coolant degas container. The cap releases pres-
sure at some point within a range of 97-to-124 kPa
(14-to-18 psi). The pressure relief point (in pounds) is
engraved on top of the cap
The cooling system will operate at pressures
slightly above atmospheric pressure. This results in a
higher coolant boiling point allowing increased radi-
ator cooling capacity. The cap contains a spring-
Fig. 36 Fan Shroud MountingÐ5.9L Diesel Engine
1 - RADIATOR SUPPORT
2 - UPPER FAN SHROUD
3 - BOLTS (2)
4 - LOWER FAN SHROUD
5 - RADIATOR
7 - 60 ENGINEDR
RADIATOR - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

loaded pressure relief valve. This valve opens when
system pressure reaches the release range of 97-to-
124 kPa (14-to-18 psi).
A rubber gasket seals the radiator filler neck. This
is done to maintain vacuum during coolant cool-down
and to prevent leakage when system is under pres-
sure.
OPERATION
A vent valve in the center of the cap will remain
shut as long as the cooling system is pressurized. As
the coolant cools, it contracts and creates a vacuum
in the cooling system. This causes the vacuum valve
to open and coolant in the reserve/overflow container
to be drawn through the recovery hose connecting
the filler neck and reserve/overflow container. If the
vacuum valve is stuck shut, or the recovery hose is
kinked, radiator hoses will collapse on cool down.
For the 3.7L/4.7L engine, the vacuum valve will
open and relieve the vacuum pressure in the cooling
system.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐRADIATOR
CAP-TO-FILLER NECK SEAL
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure
relief can be tested by removing overflow hose from
the radiator filler neck tube. Attach the hose of the
pressure tester tool 7700 (or equivalent) to the tube.
It will be necessary to disconnect hose from its
adapter for the filler neck. Pump air into radiator.
The pressure cap upper gasket should relieve at 69
to 124kPa (10 to 18 psi) and hold pressure at a min-
imum of 55 kPa (8 psi).
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS ÐDO NOT
OPEN HOTÐ ON RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, ARE
A SAFETY PRECAUTION. WHEN HOT, PRESSURE
BUILDS UP IN COOLING SYSTEM. TO PREVENT
SCALDING OR INJURY, RADIATOR CAP SHOULD
NOT BE REMOVED WHILE SYSTEM IS HOT AND/OR
UNDER PRESSURE.
Do not remove the radiator cap at any timeexcept
for the following purposes:
(1) Check and adjust antifreeze freeze point.
(2) Refill the system with new antifreeze.
(3) Conducting service procedures.
(4) Checking for vacuum leaks.
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN RECENTLY,
WAIT AT LEAST 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING
RADIATOR CAP. WITH A RAG, SQUEEZE RADIATOR
UPPER HOSE TO CHECK IF SYSTEM IS UNDER
PRESSURE. PLACE A RAG OVER CAP AND WITH-
OUT PUSHING CAP DOWN, ROTATE IT COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE TO FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUID TO
ESCAPE THROUGH THE COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW HOSE INTO RESERVE/OVERFLOW
TANK. SQUEEZE RADIATOR UPPER HOSE TO
DETERMINE WHEN PRESSURE HAS BEEN
RELEASED. WHEN COOLANT AND STEAM STOP
BEING PUSHED INTO TANK AND SYSTEM PRES-
SURE DROPS, REMOVE RADIATOR CAP COM-
PLETELY.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR CAP
Remove the cap from the radiator. Be sure that the
sealing surfaces are clean. Moisten the rubber gasket
with water and install the cap on the pressure tester
7700 or an equivalent (Fig. 38).
Operate the tester pump to bring the pressure to
104 kPa (15 psi) on the gauge. If the pressure cap
fails to hold pressure of at least 97 kPa (14 psi)
replace the cap. Refer to the followingCAUTION.
Fig. 37 Radiator Pressure Cap - Typical
1 - FILLER NECK SEAL
2 - VACUUM VENT VALVE
3 - PRESSURE RATING
4 - PRESSURE VALVE
DRENGINE 7 - 61
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)

The pressure cap may test properly while posi-
tioned on tool 7700 (or equivalent). It may not hold
pressure or vacuum when installed on the radiator. If
so, inspect the radiator filler neck and radiator cap's
top gasket for damage. Also inspect for dirt or distor-
tion that may prevent the cap from sealing properly.
CAUTION: Radiator pressure testing tools are very
sensitive to small air leaks which will not cause
cooling system problems. A pressure cap that does
not have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to tool. Turn tool upside
down and recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap
needs replacement.
CLEANING
Use only a mild soap and water to clean the radi-
ator cap. Using any type of solvent may cause dam-
age to the seal in the radiator cap.
INSPECTION
Hold cap at eye level, right side up. The vent valve
(Fig. 39) at bottom of cap should closed. A slight
downward pull on the vent valve should open it. If
the rubber gasket has swollen and prevents vent
valve from opening, replace cap.
Hold cap at eye level, upside down. If any light can
be seen between vent valve and rubber gasket,
replace cap. A replacement cap must be the typedesigned for a coolant reserve/overflow system with a
completely sealed diaphragm spring and a rubber
gasket. This gasket is used to seal to radiator filler
neck top surface. Use of proper cap will allow coolant
return to radiator.
WATER PUMP - 5.9L
DESCRIPTION
The water pump is located on the engine front
cover, and has an integral pulley attached (Fig. 40).
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the rear
of a shaft that rotates in a bearing pressed into the
water pump body. The body has a small hole for ven-
tilation. The water pump seals are lubricated by
antifreeze in the coolant mixture. Additional lubrica-
tion is not necessary.
OPERATION
A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant
through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold,
radiator core, cooling system hoses and heater core,
this coolant absorbs the heat generated when the
engine is running. The pump is driven by the engine
crankshaft via a drive belt.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐWATER PUMP
A quick test to determine if pump is working is to
check if heater warms properly. A defective water
pump will not be able to circulate heated coolant
through the long heater hose to the heater core.
Fig. 38 Pressure Testing Radiator Cap - Typical
1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
Fig. 39 Radiator Pressure Cap
1 - STAINLESS-STEEL SWIVEL TOP
2 - RUBBER SEALS
3 - VENT VALVE
4 - RADIATOR TANK
5 - FILLER NECK
6 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
7 - MAIN SPRING
8 - GASKET RETAINER
7 - 62 ENGINEDR
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)

REMOVAL
The water pump on all models can be removed
without discharging the air conditioning system (if
equipped).
The water pump on all gas powered engines is
bolted directly to the engine timing chain case/cover.
On the 5.9L gas powered engine, a gasket is used
as a seal between the water pump and timing chain
case/cover.
If water pump is replaced because of bearing/shaft
damage or leaking shaft seal, the mechanical cooling
fan assembly should also be inspected. Inspect for
fatigue cracks, loose blades or loose rivets that could
have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan if
any of these conditions are found. Also check condi-
tion of the thermal viscous fan drive (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
(1) Disconnect the negative cable.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Do not waste reusable coolant. If solution is clean,
drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
(3) Remove the radiator fan (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL) (Fig. 41).
(5) Remove the lower radiator hose and heater
hose from the water pump.
(6) Loosen the heater hose coolant return tube
mounting bolt (Fig. 42) and remove the tube from the
water pump. Discard the old tube O-ring.
(7) Remove the water pump mounting bolts (Fig.
43).(8) Loosen the clamp at the water pump end of
bypass hose (Fig. 42). Slip the bypass hose from the
Fig. 40 Water Pump Location Ð Typical
1 - WATER PUMP BYPASS HOSE
2 - FAN BLADE ASSEMBLY
3 - VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
4 - WATER PUMP AND PULLEY
Fig. 41 Belt Tensioner 5.9L V-8 Engine
1 - IDLER PULLEY
2 - TENSIONER
3 - FAN BLADE
Fig. 42 Coolant Return Tube 5.9L
1 - COOLANT RETURN TUBE
2 - WATER PUMP
3 - TUBE MOUNTING BOLT
4 - O-RING
DRENGINE 7 - 63
WATER PUMP - 5.9L (Continued)