wheel DODGE RAM 2003 Service Repair Manual

(2) Lower engine into the engine compartment and
install the engine the engine mount through bolts
and nuts.
(3) Tighten the mount through bolts and nuts to
88 N-m (65 ft-lbs) torque.
(4) Remove the engine lifting device (Tool 9009).
(5) Check cylinder head capscrew length and
install into cylinder head.
(6) Torque alternately to 70 N-m (52 ft-lbs). Torque
alternately to 105 N-m (77 ft-lbs). Rotate 90 degrees.
(7) Install rocker housing. Torque to 24 N-m (18 ft-
lbs). Refer to Section 9 Rocker Housing Installation
(8) Replace injector o-ring and sealing washer on
injectors #5 and #6. Install injectors and alternately
tighten hold-down capscrews to 10 N-m (89 in-lbs).
(9) Install fuel connector tube and fuel connector
tube nut. Torque to 50 N-m (37 ft-lb). 10.
(10) Install #5 and #6 high pressure fuel lines. Fol-
low correct torque sequence per section 14. Torque
fuel line fittings to 30 N-m (22 ft-lb). Torque brace
capscrew to 24 N-m (18 ft-lb).
(11) Install rear engine lift bracket. Torque to 77
N-m (57 ft-lb).
(12) Install push tubes, rocker arms, and pedestals
for cylinders #4, #5, and #6. Torque the mounting
bolts to 36 N-m (27 ft-lbs).
(13) Reset valve lash on cylinders #4, #5, and #6.
Torque adjusting nuts to 24 N-m (18 ft-lbs).
(14) Install cylinder head cover. Torque to 24 N-m
(18 ft-lbs).(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD -
INSTALLATION).
(15) Connect breather tube and lube oil drain tube
to breather housing. Install breather housing. Torque
capscrews to 24 N-m (18 ft-lbs)
(16) Connect fuel supply and return hoses.
(17) Connect ECM ground to hydroform screw.
Connect ECM power connector.
(18) Install the APPS cable(s) to the APPS. Install
the throttle linkage cover.
(19) Install the power steering pump.
(20) Install the damper and speed indicator ring.
Torque to 40 N-m (30 ft-lb) plus 60 degrees.
(21) Connect the engine block heater connection.
(22) Connect the A/C compressor and pressure sen-
sor connectors
(23) Install the charge air cooler and a/c condenser
(if equipped). Install and tighten the charge air
cooler mounting bolts to 2 N-m (17 in-lbs).
(24) Connect the charge air cooler piping. Torque
all clamps to 8 N-m (72 in-lbs).
(25) Connect the a/c refrigerant lines to the a/c
condenser (if equipped).
(26) Install the radiator upper support panel.
(27) Install radiator.
(28) Connect the transmission quick-connect oil
cooler lines.(29) Raise vehicle.
(30) Connect a/c compressor suction/discharge hose
(if equipped).
(31) Install the radiator lower hose and clamps.
(32) Install the battery negative cables to the
engine block on the driver and passenger side.
(33) Install the transmission adapter with a new
camshaft rectangular ring seal. Torque to 77 N-m (57
ft-lb).
(34) Install the flywheel/flexplate. Torque to 137
N-m (101 ft-lb).
(35) Install the starter motor. Torque to 43 N-m
(32 ft-lb). (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/
STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
(36) Connect engine to vehicle harness connectors.
(37) Install transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(38) Connect the exhaust pipe to the turbocharger
elbow.
(39) Connect the transmission auxiliary oil cooler
lines (if equipped).
(40) Lower the vehicle.
(41)
Connect the heater core supply and return hoses.
(42) Install the cooling fan and upper fan shroud
at the same time. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
(43) Install the coolant recovery bottle.
(44) Install the windshield washer bottle.
(45) Install the upper radiator hose and clamps.
(46) Raise vehicle.
(47) Connect electronically controlled fan drive
wire harness. Install lower radiator fan shroud.
(48) Change oil filter and install new engine oil.
(49) Fill the cooling system with coolant. (Refer to
7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(50) Connect grid heater harness at grid heater
relays.
(51) Connect electrical connections to rear of alter-
nator.
(52) Start the engine and inspect for engine oil,
coolant, and fuel leaks.
INSTALLATIONÐCRANKCASE BREATHER
(1) Install a new o-ring onto the breather element.
(2) Lubricate o-ring and install into cylinder head
cover. Torque capscrews to 10 N´m (89 in. lbs.).
(3) Connect breather tube and lube oil drain tube.
(4) Install breather cover (Fig. 4). Torque to 24
N´m (18 ft. lbs.)
(5) Install oil fill cap.
9 - 292 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

(e) Remove banjo fitting at bottom of fuel filter
housing.
(f) Disconnect fuel supply hose at lift pump.
(32) Disconnect fuel heater, water in fuel sensor,
and fuel lift pump connectors.
(33) Remove the fuel filter assembly-to-cylinder
head bolts and remove filter assembly from vehicle.
(34) Remove wire harness P-clip from cylinder
head (located behind filter housing).
(35) Remove the cylinder head cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(36) Disconnect rocker housing injector harness
connectors.
(37) Remove injector harness nuts from injectors.
(38) Remove the rocker levers (Fig. 11), cross
heads and push rods (Fig. 12). Mark each component
so they can be installed in their original positions.
NOTE: The #5 cylinder exhaust and the #6 cylinder
intake and exhaust push rods are removed by lift-
ing them up and through the provided cowl panel
access holes. Remove the rubber plugs to expose
these relief holes.
(39) Remove the fuel return line and banjo bolt at
the rear of the cylinder head. Be careful not to drop
the two (2) sealing washers.
(40) Remove the fuel injectors (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/FUEL INJECTOR -
REMOVAL).(41) Remove rocker housing bolts and rocker hous-
ing and gasket.
(42) Reinstall the engine lift bracket at the rear of
cylinder head. Torque to 77 N´m (57 ft. lbs.).
(43) Remove twenty six (26) cylinder head-to-block
bolts.
(44) Attach an engine lift crane to engine lift
brackets and lift cylinder head off engine and out of
vehicle.
(45) Remove the head gasket and inspect for fail-
ure.
CLEANING
CLEANINGÐCYLINDER HEAD
CAUTION: Do not wire brush head surface while
fuel injectors are still installed. Fuel injector dam-
age can result.
Remove fuel injector before cleaning (if not already
removed during cylinder head removal).
Clean the carbon from the injector nozzle seat with
a nylon or brass brush.
Scrape the gasket residue from all gasket surfaces.
Wash the cylinder head in hot soapy water solution
(88ÉC or 140ÉF).
After rinsing, use compressed air to dry the cylin-
der head.
Polish the gasket surface with 400 grit paper. Use
an orbital sander or sanding block to maintain a flat
surface.
CLEANINGÐCROSSHEADS
Clean all crossheads in a suitable solvent. If neces-
sary, use a wire brush or wheel to remove stubborn
deposits. Rinse in hot water and blow dry with com-
pressed air.
Fig. 11 Rocker Arm and Pedestal Removal
1 - ROCKER ARM
2 - PEDESTAL
Fig. 12 Push Rod Removal
9 - 300 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

CLEANINGÐPUSHRODS
Clean the pushrods in a suitable solvent. Rinse in
hot water and blow dry with compressed air. If nec-
essary, use a wire brush or wheel to remove stubborn
deposits.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION - CYLINDER HEAD
Inspect the cylinder head for cracks in the combus-
tion surface. Pressure test any cylinder head that is
visibly cracked. A cylinder head that is cracked
between the injector bore and valve seat can be pres-
sure tested and reused if OK; however, if the crack
extendsintothe valve seat insert bore, the cylinder
headmustbe replaced.
Visually inspect the cylinder block and head com-
bustion surfaces for localized dips or imperfections.
Check the cylinder head and block combustion sur-
faces for overall out-of-flatness. If either the visual or
manual inspection exceeds the limits, then the head
or block must be surfaced.
Check the top surface for damage caused by the
cylinder head gasket leaking between cylinders.
Inspect the block and head surface for nicks, ero-
sion, etc.
Check the head distortion. Maximum overall vari-
ation end to end is 0.305 mm (0.012 inch) (Fig. 13),
and maximum overall variation side to side 0.076
mm ( .003 in.).
DO NOT proceed with the in-chassis overhaul if
the cylinder head or block surface is damaged or not
flat (within specifications).
Check block surface for distortion. Maximum vari-
ation end-to-end is 0.076 mm ( .003 in.), side-to-side
0.051 mm (.002).Visually inspect the cylinder head bolts for dam-
aged threads, corroded/pitted surfaces, or a reduced
diameter due to bolt stretching.
If the bolts are not damaged, their ªfree lengthº
should be measured using the cap screw stretch
gauge provided with the replacement head gasket.
Place the head of the bolt against the base of the slot
and align the bolt with the straight edge of gauge
(Fig. 14). If the end of the bolt touches the foot of the
gauge, the boltmustbe discarded.The maximum
bolt free length is 132.1 mm (5.200 in.).
INSPECTIONÐCROSSHEADS
Inspect the crossheads for cracks and/or excessive
wear on rocker lever and valve tip mating surfaces
(Fig. 15). Replace any crossheads that exhibit abnor-
mal wear or cracks.
Fig. 13 Cylinder Head Combustion Deck Face
1 - STRAIGHT EDGE
2 - FEELER GAUGE
Fig. 14 Head Bolt Stretch Gauge
Fig. 15 Inspecting Crosshead for Cracks
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 301
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

(4) Lubricate the crossheads and push rod sockets
and install the rocker arms and pedestals in their
original locations. Tighten bolts to 36 N´m (27 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(5)Verify valve lash adjustment (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST
VALVES & SEATS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(6) Install cylinder head cover and reusable gasket
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLIN-
DER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(7) Connect battery negative cables.
ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER
ASSY
DESCRIPTION
The unique intake and exhaust rocker arms have
their own rocker shafts and are lubricated by pas-
sages intersecting the cylinder block main oil rifle.
Crossheads are used, which allow each rocker arm to
operate two valves.
The solid push rods are hardened at the rocker
arm and tappet contact areas for superior strength
and durability.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the rocker arm/pedestal fasteners (Fig.
36) and remove rocker arm and pedestal from cylin-der head. Mark the arms and pedestals so they can
be installed in their original position.
CAUTION: When removing the rocker arms, the
sockets (Fig. 37) may come loose and fall into the
engine. Make sure they stay with the arm upon
removal/installation.
(4) Lift the push rod(s) up and out of the engine
(Fig. 38). Mark them so they can be installed in their
original position.
NOTE: The #5 cyl. intake and exhaust and #6 cyl.
intake and exhaust push rods must be raised
through the provided cowl panel access holes.
(5) Lift the crosshead(s) off of the valve stems.
Mark them so they can be installed in their original
position.
CLEANING
Clean all components in a suitable solvent. If nec-
essary, use a wire brush or wheel to remove stubborn
deposits. Rinse in hot water and blow dry with com-
pressed air. Inspect oil passages in rocker arms and
pedestals. Apply compressed air to lubrication orifices
to purge contaminants.
Fig. 35 Compressing Valve Springs with Tool
8319±A
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8319
Fig. 36 Rocker Arm and Pedestal Removal
1 - ROCKER ARM
2 - PEDESTAL
9 - 310 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)

ring tool to keep the engine from rotating during
tightening operation.
(11) Install the fan support/hub assembly and
torque bolts to 32 N´m (24 ft. lbs.).
(12) Install hydraulic pump.
(13) Install accessory drive belt tensioner. Torque
bolt to 43 Nm (32 ft.lbs.).
(14) Install cooling fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
(15) Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(16) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(17) Connect battery negative cables.
(18) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Remove the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(3) Remove the clutch cover and disc (if manual
transmission equipped) (Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/
CLUTCH DISC - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the flywheel or converter drive plate.
(5) Drill holes 180É apart into the seal. Be careful
not to contact the drill against the crankshaft.
(6) Install #10 sheet metal screws in the drilled
holes and remove the rear seal with a slide hammer
(Fig. 73).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on outside
diameter of seal to ease assembly.
(1) Clean the crankshaft journal with a suitable
solvent and dry with a clean shop towel or com-
pressed air. Wipe the inside bore of the crankshaft
seal retainer with a clean shop towel.
(2) Inspect the crankshaft journal for gouges,
nicks, or other imperfections. If the seal groove in the
crankshaft is excessively deep, install the new seal
1/8º deeper into the retainer bore, or obtain a crank-
shaft wear sleeve that is available in the aftermar-
ket.
(3) Install the seal pilot and new seal, provided in
the replacement kit, onto the crankshaft.
(4) Remove the seal pilot.
(5) Install the installation tool over crankshaft.
(6) Using a ball peen hammer, strike the tool at
the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions until the align-
ment tool bottoms out on the retainer (Fig. 74).
(7) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Tighten the bolts to 137 N´m (101 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install the clutch cover and disc (if equipped)
(Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH DISC - INSTALLA-
TION).
(9) Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(10) Lower vehicle.
Fig. 73 Crankshaft Rear Seal Removal
1 - NO. 10 SCREW
2 - REAR SEAL
3 - CRANKSHAFT
4 - SLIDE HAMMER
Fig. 74 Seal Installation Using Alignment Tool and
Hammer
1 - SEAL PILOT TOOL
2 - INSTALLATION TOOL
3 - SEAL
4 - RETAINER
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 325
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT (Continued)

(11) Connect battery negative cables.
(12) Check engine oil level and adjust, if necessary.
(13) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil. Re-install plug and torque to 50 N´m (44
ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped) from vehicle.
(5) Remove flywheel or torque converter drive
plate.
(6) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(7) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
(8) Remove four (4) oil pan rear bolts. Slide a
feeler guage between the seal retainer and oil pan
gasket to break the seal.
(9) Remove the six (6) retainer-to-block bolts (Fig.
75).
(10) Remove the rear seal retainer and gasket
(Fig. 75).
(11) Support the seal retainer and drive out the
crankshaft seal with a hammer and suitable punch.
INSTALLATION
(1) If using the old seal retainer, the crankshaft
seal must be replaced.(2) Inspect oil pan gasket for nickes or cuts. If gas-
ket is damaged, the oil pan must be removed and
gasket must be replaced. Wipe oil pan gasket dry and
apply light coating of RTV.
(3) Using the retainer alignment/seal installation
tool provided in the seal service kit, install the align-
ment tool into the retainer and install to the cylinder
block (Fig. 76), using a new gasket. Tighten the six
(6) mounting bolts by hand.
(4) The seal alignment tool is used to align rear
cover properly. Starting with the center two bolts,
tighten the retainer in a circular pattern to 10 N´m
(89 in. lbs.). Remove the alignment tool.
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on outside
diameter of seal to ease assembly.
(5) Make sure the provided seal pilot is installed
into the new crankshaft seal. Use the alignment/in-
stallation tool and press the seal onto the crankshaft
(Fig. 77). Alternately drive the seal at the 12, 3, 6
and 9 o'clock positions.
(6) Remove the alignment tool and trim the
retainer gasket even with the oil pan mounting sur-
face (Fig. 78).
(7) Remove the seal pilot.
(8) Apply a small amount of MopartSilicone Rub-
ber Adhesive Sealant to the oil pan rail T-joints.
(9) Install the four (4) oil pan rear mounting bolts
and torque to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(10) Install new rectangular ring seal for cam bore.
Fig. 75 Crankshaft Rear Seal Retainer and Gasket
1 - RETAINER
2 - GASKET
3 - BOLT
Fig. 76 Aligning Seal Retainer with Alignment/
Installation Tool
1 - ALIGNMENT / INSTALLATION TOOL
2 - SEAL RETAINER
9 - 326 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)

(11) Install the flywheel housing and bolts. Torque
bolts to 77 N´m (57 ft. lbs.).
(12) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Tighten bolts to 137 N´m (101 ft. lbs.).
(13) Install the starter motor and torque to 43 N´m
(21 ft. lbs.)(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/
STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
(14) Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(15) Lower vehicle.
(16) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
(17) Connect the battery negative cables.
(18) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
SOLID LIFTERS/TAPPETS
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure requires use of Miller Tool
8502 Tappet Replacement Kit.
(1) Remove camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN
BLOCK) - REMOVAL).
(2) Insert the trough (provided with tool kit) the
full length of the camshaft bore (Fig. 79). Make sure
the cap end goes in first and the open side faces up
(towards tappets).
(3)Remove only one tappet at a time.Remove
rubber band from one cylinder pair and attach tappet
dowel not being removed to the next cylinder pair
(Fig. 80).
Fig. 79 Inserting the Trough - Typical
1 - TROUGH
Fig. 80 Secure Dowel/Tappet to Adjacent Cylinder -
typical
Fig. 77 Installing Seal Using Alignment Tool and
Hammer
1 - SEAL PILOT TOOL
2 - INSTALLATION TOOL
3 - SEAL
4 - RETAINER
Fig. 78 Trimming Excess Gasket Material
1 - GASKET
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 327
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER (Continued)

OIL COOLER & LINES
CLEANING
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the sealing surfaces.
Apply 483 kPa (70 psi) air pressure to the element
to check for leaks. If the element leaks, replace the
element.
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
(1) Clean the area around the oil filter head.
Remove the filter from below using a cap-style filter
wrench.
(2) Clean the gasket surface of the filter head. The
filter canister O-Ring seal can stick on the filter
head. Make sure it is removed.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the oil filter element with clean oil before
installation. Use the same type oil that will be used
in the engine.
(2) Apply a light film of lubricating oil to the seal-
ing surface before installing the filter.
CAUTION: Mechanical over-tightening may distort
the threads or damage the filter element seal.
(3) Install the filter until it contacts the sealing
surface of the oil filter adapter. Tighten filter an
additional
1¤2turn.
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Install engine support fixture # 8534.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(5) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
(6) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(7) Remove flywheel or flexplate.
(8) Remove the transmission adapter plate.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(9) Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).(10) Install the oil pan drain plug if sealing sur-
face is not damaged and tighten to 50 N´m (57 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(11) Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block
seal, and lower pan slightly and remove oil suction
tube fasteners.
(12) Remove oil pan and suction tube.
CLEANING
Remove all gasket material from the oil pan and
cylinder block sealing surfaces. Extra effort may be
required around T-joint areas. Clean oil pan and
flush suction tube with a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect the oil pan, suction tube, and tube braces
for cracks and damage. Replace any defective compo-
nent. Inspect the oil drain plug and drain hole
threads. Inspect the oil pan sealing surface for
straightness. Repair any minor imperfections with a
ball-peen hammer. Do not attempt to repair an oil
pan by welding.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the T-joint between the pan rail/gear hous-
ing and pan rail/rear seal retainer with sealant. Use
MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equiva-
lent.
(2) Place suction tube in oil pan and guide them
into place. Using a new tube to block gasket, install
and tighten the suction tube bolts by hand. Starting
with the oil pump inlet bolts, tighten the bolts to 24
N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the remaining tube
brace bolts to 43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Starting in the center and working outward,
tighten the oil pan bolts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install the flywheel housing assembly with the
starter motor attached and tighten bolts to 77 N´m
(57 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect starter motor cables.
(6) Install the flywheel or flexplate. Torque to 137
N´m (101 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(8) Lower vehicle.
(9) Remove the engine support fixture # 8534.
(10) Install battery negative cables.
(11) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
(12) Start engine and check for leaks. Stop engine,
check oil level, and adjust, if necessary.
9 - 342 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
4. Excessive main bearing clearance 4. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary
5. Excessive end play 5. Check crankshaft thrust bearing for
excessive wear on flanges
6. Crankshaft main journal out of round
or worn6. Grind journals or replace crankshaft
7. Loose flywheel or torque converter 7. Inspect crankshaft, flexplate/flywheel
and bolts for damage. Tighten to correct
torque
LOW OIL PRESSURE 1. Low oil level 1. Check oil level and fill if necessary
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit 2. Install new sending unit
3. Clogged oil filter 3. Install new oil filter
4. Worn oil pump 4. Replace oil pump assembly.
5. Thin or diluted oil 5. Change oil to correct viscosity.
6. Excessive bearing clearance 6. Measure bearings for correct
clearance
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck 7. Remove valve to inspect, clean and
reinstall
8. Oil pickup tube loose, broken, bent or
clogged8. Inspect oil pickup tube and pump, and
clean or replace if necessary
9. Oil pump cover warped or cracked 9. Install new oil pump
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated gaskets 1. Replace gasket
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous
metal part2. Tighten, repair or replace the part
3. Front or rear crankshaft oil seal
leaking3. Replace seal
4. Leaking oil gallery plug or cup plug 4. Remove and reseal threaded plug.
Replace cup style plug
EXCESSIVE OIL
CONSUMPTION OR
SPARK PLUGS OIL
FOULED1. CCV System malfunction 1. (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS
CONTROL/EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS
- DESCRIPTION) for correct operation
2. Defective valve stem seal(s) 2. Repair or replace seal(s)
3. Worn or broken piston rings 3. Hone cylinder bores. Install new rings
4. Scuffed pistons/cylinder walls 4. Hone cylinder bores and replace
pistons as required
5. Carbon in oil control ring groove 5. Remove rings and de-carbon piston
6. Worn valve guides 6. Inspect/replace valve guides as
necessary
7. Piston rings fitted too tightly in
grooves7. Remove rings and check ring end gap
and side clearance. Replace if
necessary
DRENGINE 8.0L 9 - 357
ENGINE 8.0L (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the transmission.
(3) Remove the drive plate / flywheel.
(4) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the rear oil seal retainer mounting
bolts.
(6) Carefully remove the retainer from the engine
block.
INSTALLATION
(1) Throughly clean all gasket resdue from the
engine block.
(2) Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue
from the retainer.
(3) Apply a small amount of MopartSilicone Rub-
ber Adhesive Sealant to the retainer gasket. Position
the gasket onto the retainer.
(4) Position Special Tool 6687 Seal Guide onto the
crankshaft.
(5) Position the retainer and seal over the guide
and onto the engine block.
(6) Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 22 N´m (16 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the drive plate / flywheel.
(9) Install the transmission.
(10) Check and verify engine oil level.
(11) Start engine and check for leaks.
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐHYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length,
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on
intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have
been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run
engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the
plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by for-
eign particles wedged between the plunger and the
tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in
the down position. This heavy click will be accompa-
nied by excessive clearance between the valve stem
and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet
assembly should be removed for inspection and clean-
ing.
9 - 386 ENGINE 8.0LDR