DODGE RAM 2003 Service Repair Manual

(7) Start the engine and check for coolant leaks.
Run engine to check for proper thermostat operation.
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH
DESCRIPTION
The thermal viscous fan drive (Fig. 29) is a sili-
cone-fluid- filled coupling used to connect the fan
blades to the water pump shaft. The coupling allows
the fan to be driven in a normal manner. This is
done at low engine speeds while limiting the top
speed of the fan to a predetermined maximum level
at higher engine speeds.
OPERATION
A thermostatic bimetallic spring coil is located on
the front face of the viscous fan drive unit (a typical
viscous unit is shown in (Fig. 30). This spring coil
reacts to the temperature of the radiator discharge
air. It engages the viscous fan drive for higher fan
speed if the air temperature from the radiator rises
above a certain point. Until additional engine cooling
is necessary, the fan will remain at a reduced rpm
regardless of engine speed.
Only when sufficient heat is present, will the vis-
cous fan drive engage. This is when the air flowing
through the radiator core causes a reaction to the
bimetallic coil. It then increases fan speed to provide
the necessary additional engine cooling.Once the engine has cooled, the radiator discharge
temperature will drop. The bimetallic coil again
reacts and the fan speed is reduced to the previous
disengaged speed.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - VISCOUS FAN
DRIVE
NOISE
NOTE: It is normal for fan noise to be louder (roar-
ing) when:
²The underhood temperature is above the engage-
ment point for the viscous drive coupling. This may
Fig. 28 Thermostat Removal/Installation
1 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
2 - CYLINDER HEAD
3 - THERMOSTAT
Fig. 29 Viscous Fan
1 - WATER PUMP BYPASS HOSE
2 - FAN BLADE ASSEMBLY
3 - VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
4 - WATER PUMP AND PULLEY
Fig. 30 Viscous Fan DriveÐTypical
1 - VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
2 - THERMOSTATIC SPRING
3 - MOUNTING NUT TO WATER PUMP HUB
7 - 54 ENGINEDR
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

occur when ambient (outside air temperature) is very
high.
²Engine loads and temperatures are high such as
when towing a trailer.
²Cool silicone fluid within the fan drive unit is
being redistributed back to its normal disengaged
(warm) position. This can occur during the first 15
seconds to one minute after engine start-up on a cold
engine.
LEAKS
Viscous fan drive operation is not affected by small
oil stains near the drive bearing. If leakage appears
excessive, replace the fan drive unit.
VISCOUS DRIVE
If the fan assembly free-wheels without drag (the
fan blades will revolve more than five turns when
spun by hand), replace the fan drive. This spin test
must be performed when the engine is cool.
For the following test, the cooling system must be
in good condition. It also will ensure against exces-
sively high coolant temperature.
WARNING: BE SURE THAT THERE IS ADEQUATE
FAN BLADE CLEARANCE BEFORE DRILLING.
(1) Drill a 3.18-mm (1/8-in) diameter hole in the
top center of the fan shroud.
(2) Obtain a dial thermometer with an 8 inch stem
(or equivalent). It should have a range of -18É-to-
105ÉC (0É-to-220É F). Insert thermometer through the
hole in the shroud. Be sure that there is adequate
clearance from the fan blades.
(3) Connect a tachometer and an engine ignition
timing light. The timing light is to be used as a
strobe light. This step cannot be used on the diesel
engine.
(4) Block the air flow through the radiator. Secure
a sheet of plastic in front of the radiator. Use tape at
the top to secure the plastic and be sure that the air
flow is blocked.
(5) Be sure that the air conditioner (if equipped) is
turned off.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO
NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(6) Start the engine and operate at 2400 rpm.
Within ten minutes the air temperature (indicated on
the dial thermometer) should be up to 88É C (190É F).
Fan driveengagementshould start to occur at/be-
tween:
²3.7L Automatic Ð 93É C - 99ÉC (200É F - 210É F)²3.7L Manual/4.7L Automatic/5.9L Ð 85É to 91É C
(185É to 195É F)
²4.7L Manual Ð 74É to 79É C (165É to 175É F)
²Engagement is distinguishable by a definite
increasein fan flow noise (roaring). The timing light
also will indicate an increase in the speed of the fan.
(7) When viscous drive engagement is verified,
remove the plastic sheet. Fan drivedisengagement
should start to occur at or between:
²3.7L Automatic Ð 76ÉC to 81ÉC (168É F to 178É
F)
²3.7L Manual/4.7L Auto/ 5.9L Ð 67ÉC to 73ÉC
(153É F to 163É F)
²4.7L Manual Ð 56ÉC to 62ÉC (133É F to 143É F)
²8.0L engine Ð 88É to 96É C (190É to 205É F) A
definitedecreaseof fan flow noise (roaring) should
be noticed. If not, replace the defective viscous fan
drive unit.
CAUTION: Some engines equipped with serpentine
drive belts have reverse rotating fans and viscous
fan drives. They are marked with the word
REVERSE to designate their usage. Installation of
the wrong fan or viscous fan drive can result in
engine overheating.
CAUTION: If the viscous fan drive is replaced
because of mechanical damage, the cooling fan
blades should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue
cracks, loose blades, or loose rivets that could
have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan
blade assembly if any of these conditions are
found. Also inspect water pump bearing and shaft
assembly for any related damage due to a viscous
fan drive malfunction.
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH
- 5.9L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
The electronically controlled thermal viscous fan
drive (Fig. 31) is attached to the fan drive pulley
mounted to the engine. The coupling allows the fan
to be driven in a normal manner. The fan speed is
controlled by the electronic control module.
OPERATION
The Engine Control Module (ECM) controls the
level of engagment of the electronically controlled
viscous fan clutch by monitoring coolant tempera-
ture, intake manifold temperature, and air condition-
ing status. Based on cooling requirements, the ECM
sends a signal to the viscous fan clutch to increase or
decrease the fan speed.
DRENGINE 7 - 55
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH (Continued)

Fan speed is monitored by the ECM. A lack of fan
speed will set a DTC. Circuit concerns will also set
fan clutch DTC's.
Fan speed and duty cycle percent can be monitored
with the DRB III..
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ELECTRONICLY
CONTOLLED VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
NOISE
NOTE: It is normal for fan noise to be louder (roar-
ing) when:
²Fan duty cycle high. This may occur when ambi-
ent (outside air temperature) is very high.
²Engine loads and temperatures are high such as
when towing a trailer.
²Cool silicone fluid within the fan drive unit is
being redistributed back to its normal disengaged
(warm) position. This can occur during the first 15
seconds to one minute after engine start-up on a cold
engine.
LEAKS
Viscous fan drive operation is not affected by small
oil stains near the drive bearing. If leakage appears
excessive, replace the fan drive unit.
ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED VISCOUS DRIVE
If the fan assembly free-wheels without drag (the
fan blades will revolve more than five turns when
spun by hand), replace the fan drive. This spin test
must be performed when the engine is cool.
For the following test, the cooling system must be
in good condition. It also will ensure against exces-
sively high coolant temperature.
The Electronic Viscous Fan drive can be tested
using the DRB III scan tool.
(1) Set the parking brake and verify the transmis-
sion is in park or neutral.
(2) Stat and allow engine to reach normal operat-
ing termeratures.
(3) With engine idling, connect the DRB III and
select appropraite model year and engine option.
(4) Lacate and select actuator tests, then select
PWM Viscous Fan.
(5) Monitor fan speed and duty cycle; verify that
the fan speed increments are proportional to the duty
cycle precentage during the actuation event.
CAUTION: Some engines equipped with serpentine
drive belts have reverse rotating fans and viscous
fan drives. They are marked with the word
REVERSE to designate their usage. Installation of
the wrong fan or viscous fan drive can result in
engine overheating.
CAUTION: If the viscous fan drive is replaced
because of mechanical damage, the cooling fan
blades should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue
cracks, loose blades, or loose rivets that could
have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan
blade assembly if any of these conditions are
found.
RADIATOR
DESCRIPTION
The radiator is a aluminum cross-flow design with
horizontal tubes through the radiator core and verti-
cal plastic side tanks (Fig. 32).
This radiator does not contain an internal trans-
mission oil cooler
OPERATION
The radiator supplies sufficient heat transfer using
the cooling fins interlaced between the horizontal
tubes in the radiator core to cool the engine.
Fig. 31 Fan Blade/Viscous Fan Drive
1 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
2 - VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
3 - FAN BLADE
4 - BOLT
5 - FAN DRIVE
7 - 56 ENGINEDR
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐRADIATOR
COOLANT FLOW
Use the following procedure to determine if coolant
is flowing through the cooling system.
(1) Idle engine until operating temperature is
reached. If the upper radiator hose is warm to the
touch, the thermostat is opening and coolant is flow-
ing to the radiator.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. USING A RAG TO
COVER THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, OPEN
RADIATOR CAP SLOWLY TO THE FIRST STOP. THIS
WILL ALLOW ANY BUILT-UP PRESSURE TO VENT
TO THE RESERVE/OVERFLOW TANK. AFTER PRES-
SURE BUILD-UP HAS BEEN RELEASED, REMOVE
CAP FROM FILLER NECK.
(2) Drain a small amount of coolant from the radi-
ator until the ends of the radiator tubes are visible
through the filler neck. Idle the engine at normal
operating temperature. If coolant is flowing past the
exposed tubes, the coolant is circulating.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.
(2) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with a matching number or letter and the correct
width.
(3) Remove the hose clamps and hoses from radia-
tor.
(4) Remove the coolant reserve/overflow tank hose
from the radiator filler neck.
(5) Remove the coolant reserve/overflow tank
(5.9L) or the coolant degas container(3.7L/4.7L) from
the fan shroud (pull straight up). The tank slips into
slots on the fan shroud.
(6) Unclip the power steering hoses from the fan
shroud.
(7) Disconnect the electrical connectors at the
windshield washer reservoir tank and remove the
tank.
(8) Remove the fan shroud mounting bolts and pull
up and out of the radiator tank clips (Fig. 33). Posi-
tion shroud rearward over the fan blades towards
engine.
(9) Disconnect the transmission cooler lines from
the transmission cooler, then plug the transmission
lines and cooler to prevent leakage.
(10) Disconnect the power steering lines from the
power steering cooler, then plug the power steering
lines and cooler to prevent leakage.
(11) Remove the two radiator upper mounting
bolts (Fig. 34).
(12) Lift the radiator straight up and out of the
engine compartment. Take care not to damage cool-
ing fins or tubes on the radiator and oil coolers when
removing.
Fig. 32 Radiator Ð Typical
1 - SCREW
2 - SCREW
3 - LOWER MOUNT
4 - RADIATOR
5 - DRAINCOCK
6 -LOWER MOUNT
DRENGINE 7 - 57
RADIATOR (Continued)

NOTE: The radiator is equipped with one alignment
dowel on the bottom of the outlet tank and one
retaining bracket on the front side of the inlet tank.
Both features have rubber insulators attached to
them that must be present. The alignment dowel fits
into a hole at the bottom of the front end sheet
metal vertical support post and the support bracket
rests on top of the lower radiator closure tube.
CLEANING
Clean radiator fins are necessary for good heat
transfer. The radiator and oil cooler fins should be
cleaned when an accumulation of debris has
occurred. With the engine cold, apply cold water and
compressed air to the back (engine side) of the radi-
ator to flush the radiator and/or oil coolers of debris.
INSPECTION
Inspect the radiator side tanks for cracks, broken
or missing fittings also inspect the joint where the
tanks seam up to the radiator core for signs of leak-
age and/or deteriorating seals.
Inspect radiator core for corroded, bent or missing
cooling fins. Inspect the core for bent or damaged
cooling tubes.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the fan shroud over the fan blades
rearward towards engine.
(2) Install the rubber insulators to the lower radi-
ator mounting features (alignment dowel and support
bracket at the lower part of the radiator).
(3) Lower the radiator into position while guiding
the alignment dowel into the vertical post bracket.
Position and seat the lower radiator support bracket
onto the lower radiator closure tube.
(4) Install the upper radiator mounting bolts.
Tighten bolts to 8.5 N´m (75 in. lbs.).
(5) Connect the lower radiator hose and install the
clamp in the proper position.
(6) Connect the power steering hoses to the power
steering oil cooler and install the clamps.
(7) Connect the transmission oil cooler lines to the
transmission oil cooler and install the secondary
latches.
(8) Position the fan shroud into the mounting clips
on the radiator tanks and secure with bolts. Tighten
the bolts to 8.5 N´m (75 in. lbs.).
(9) Secure the power steering hoses into the clip
on the lower fan shroud.
(10) Install the windshield washer reservoir tank
and connect the hose and electrical connector.
(11) Install coolant reserve/overflow container
hose(s) to radiator filler neck and secure properly
with clamps.
Fig. 33 Fan Shroud
1 - RADIATOR
2 - SCREWS
3 - FAN SHROUD
4 - SLIDE MOUNT
Fig. 34 Radiator
1 - SCREW
2 - SCREW
3 - LOWER MOUNT
4 - RADIATOR
5 - DRAINCOCK
6 -LOWER MOUNT
7 - 58 ENGINEDR
RADIATOR (Continued)

(12) Install coolant reserve/overflow container or
degas container to fan shroud and tighten the bolts
to 8.5 N´m (75 in. lbs.).
(13) Connect upper radiator hose and install
clamp.
(14) Install battery negative cable.
(15) Fill cooling system with coolant (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(16) Operate the engine until it reaches normal
operating temperature. Check cooling system fluid
levels.
RADIATOR - 5.9L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
The radiator is a aluminum cross-flow design with
horizontal tubes through the radiator core and verti-
cal plastic side tanks (Fig. 35).
This radiator does not contain an internal trans-
mission oil cooler
OPERATION
The radiator supplies sufficient heat transfer using
the cooling fins interlaced between the horizontal
tubes in the radiator core to cool the engine.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐRADIATOR
COOLANT FLOW
Use the following procedure to determine if coolant
is flowing through the cooling system.
(1) Idle engine until operating temperature is
reached. If the upper radiator hose is warm to the
touch, the thermostat is opening and coolant is flow-
ing to the radiator.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. USING A RAG TO
COVER THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, OPEN
RADIATOR CAP SLOWLY TO THE FIRST STOP. THIS
WILL ALLOW ANY BUILT-UP PRESSURE TO VENT
TO THE RESERVE/OVERFLOW TANK. AFTER PRES-
SURE BUILD-UP HAS BEEN RELEASED, REMOVE
CAP FROM FILLER NECK.
(2) Drain a small amount of coolant from the radi-
ator until the ends of the radiator tubes are visible
through the filler neck. Idle the engine at normal
operating temperature. If coolant is flowing past the
exposed tubes, the coolant is circulating.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect both battery negative cables.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
(2) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER HPC-20)
MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS. ALWAYS
WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVICING CON-
STANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with a matching number or letter.
(3) Remove air box and turbocharger inlet tube.
(4) Remove coolant tank hose, washer bottle hose
and the positive battery cable from the fastening
clips located on top of the radiator.
(5) Remove hose clamps and hoses from radiator.
Fig. 35 Radiator Ð Typical
1 - SCREW
2 - SCREW
3 - LOWER MOUNT
4 - RADIATOR
5 - DRAINCOCK
6 -LOWER MOUNT
DRENGINE 7 - 59
RADIATOR (Continued)

(6) Remove the power steering cooler mounting
bolts and position the power steering cooler out of
the way.
(7) Disconnect the transmission cooler lines at the
transmission. The transmission cooler will remain on
the radiator and can be removed as an assembly.
(8) Remove the lower shroud assembly and the
electronic viscous fan wiring from the upper shroud
assembly.
(9) Remove the two radiator upper mounting bolts
(Fig. 36).
(10) Lift radiator straight up and out of engine
compartment. The bottom of the radiator is equipped
with two alignment dowels that fit into holes in the
lower radiator support panel. Rubber biscuits (insu-
lators) are installed to these dowels. Take care not to
damage cooling fins or tubes on the radiator and air
conditioning condenser when removing.
CLEANING
Clean radiator fins are necessary for good heat
transfer. The radiator and oil cooler fins should be
cleaned when an accumulation of debris has
occurred. With the engine cold, apply cold water and
compressed air to the back (engine side) of the radi-
ator to flush the radiator and/or oil coolers of debris.
INSPECTION
Inspect the radiator side tanks for cracks, broken
or missing fittings also inspect the joint where the
tanks seam up to the radiator core for signs of leak-
age and/or deteriorating seals.
Inspect radiator core for corroded, bent or missing
cooling fins. Inspect the core for bent or damaged
cooling tubes.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install rubber insulators to alignment dowels
at lower part of radiator.
(2) Lower the radiator into position while guiding
the two alignment dowels into lower radiator sup-
port. Different alignment holes are provided in the
lower radiator support for each engine application.
(3) Install two upper radiator mounting bolts.
Tighten bolts to 11 N´m (95 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Connect both radiator hoses and install hose
clamps.
(5) Connect transmission cooler lines to radiator
tank. Inspect quick connect fittings for debris and
install until an audible ªclickº is heard. Pull apart to
verify connection.
(6) Position power steering cooler on the radiator
and tighten nuts to 8.5M´N (75 in. lbs.)
(7) Attach electronic viscous fan wiring to upper
shroud ands install lower shroud.
(8) Position coolant recover tank hose, washer bot-
tle hose and the positive battery cable into the clips
located on the top of the radiator.
(9) Install air box and turbocharger inlet hose.
Tighten clamps to 4 N´M (35 in. lbs.).
(10) Position heater controls tofull heatposition.
(11) Fill cooling system with coolant (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(12) Operate engine until it reaches normal tem-
perature. Check cooling system and automatic trans-
mission (if equipped) fluid levels.
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
DESCRIPTION
All cooling systems are equipped with a pressure
cap (Fig. 37). For 5.9L engines, the pressure cap is
located on top of the radiator outlet tank. For the
3.7L/4.7L engines, the pressure cap is located on top
of the coolant degas container. The cap releases pres-
sure at some point within a range of 97-to-124 kPa
(14-to-18 psi). The pressure relief point (in pounds) is
engraved on top of the cap
The cooling system will operate at pressures
slightly above atmospheric pressure. This results in a
higher coolant boiling point allowing increased radi-
ator cooling capacity. The cap contains a spring-
Fig. 36 Fan Shroud MountingÐ5.9L Diesel Engine
1 - RADIATOR SUPPORT
2 - UPPER FAN SHROUD
3 - BOLTS (2)
4 - LOWER FAN SHROUD
5 - RADIATOR
7 - 60 ENGINEDR
RADIATOR - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

loaded pressure relief valve. This valve opens when
system pressure reaches the release range of 97-to-
124 kPa (14-to-18 psi).
A rubber gasket seals the radiator filler neck. This
is done to maintain vacuum during coolant cool-down
and to prevent leakage when system is under pres-
sure.
OPERATION
A vent valve in the center of the cap will remain
shut as long as the cooling system is pressurized. As
the coolant cools, it contracts and creates a vacuum
in the cooling system. This causes the vacuum valve
to open and coolant in the reserve/overflow container
to be drawn through the recovery hose connecting
the filler neck and reserve/overflow container. If the
vacuum valve is stuck shut, or the recovery hose is
kinked, radiator hoses will collapse on cool down.
For the 3.7L/4.7L engine, the vacuum valve will
open and relieve the vacuum pressure in the cooling
system.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐRADIATOR
CAP-TO-FILLER NECK SEAL
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure
relief can be tested by removing overflow hose from
the radiator filler neck tube. Attach the hose of the
pressure tester tool 7700 (or equivalent) to the tube.
It will be necessary to disconnect hose from its
adapter for the filler neck. Pump air into radiator.
The pressure cap upper gasket should relieve at 69
to 124kPa (10 to 18 psi) and hold pressure at a min-
imum of 55 kPa (8 psi).
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS ÐDO NOT
OPEN HOTÐ ON RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, ARE
A SAFETY PRECAUTION. WHEN HOT, PRESSURE
BUILDS UP IN COOLING SYSTEM. TO PREVENT
SCALDING OR INJURY, RADIATOR CAP SHOULD
NOT BE REMOVED WHILE SYSTEM IS HOT AND/OR
UNDER PRESSURE.
Do not remove the radiator cap at any timeexcept
for the following purposes:
(1) Check and adjust antifreeze freeze point.
(2) Refill the system with new antifreeze.
(3) Conducting service procedures.
(4) Checking for vacuum leaks.
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN RECENTLY,
WAIT AT LEAST 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING
RADIATOR CAP. WITH A RAG, SQUEEZE RADIATOR
UPPER HOSE TO CHECK IF SYSTEM IS UNDER
PRESSURE. PLACE A RAG OVER CAP AND WITH-
OUT PUSHING CAP DOWN, ROTATE IT COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE TO FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUID TO
ESCAPE THROUGH THE COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW HOSE INTO RESERVE/OVERFLOW
TANK. SQUEEZE RADIATOR UPPER HOSE TO
DETERMINE WHEN PRESSURE HAS BEEN
RELEASED. WHEN COOLANT AND STEAM STOP
BEING PUSHED INTO TANK AND SYSTEM PRES-
SURE DROPS, REMOVE RADIATOR CAP COM-
PLETELY.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR CAP
Remove the cap from the radiator. Be sure that the
sealing surfaces are clean. Moisten the rubber gasket
with water and install the cap on the pressure tester
7700 or an equivalent (Fig. 38).
Operate the tester pump to bring the pressure to
104 kPa (15 psi) on the gauge. If the pressure cap
fails to hold pressure of at least 97 kPa (14 psi)
replace the cap. Refer to the followingCAUTION.
Fig. 37 Radiator Pressure Cap - Typical
1 - FILLER NECK SEAL
2 - VACUUM VENT VALVE
3 - PRESSURE RATING
4 - PRESSURE VALVE
DRENGINE 7 - 61
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)

The pressure cap may test properly while posi-
tioned on tool 7700 (or equivalent). It may not hold
pressure or vacuum when installed on the radiator. If
so, inspect the radiator filler neck and radiator cap's
top gasket for damage. Also inspect for dirt or distor-
tion that may prevent the cap from sealing properly.
CAUTION: Radiator pressure testing tools are very
sensitive to small air leaks which will not cause
cooling system problems. A pressure cap that does
not have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to tool. Turn tool upside
down and recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap
needs replacement.
CLEANING
Use only a mild soap and water to clean the radi-
ator cap. Using any type of solvent may cause dam-
age to the seal in the radiator cap.
INSPECTION
Hold cap at eye level, right side up. The vent valve
(Fig. 39) at bottom of cap should closed. A slight
downward pull on the vent valve should open it. If
the rubber gasket has swollen and prevents vent
valve from opening, replace cap.
Hold cap at eye level, upside down. If any light can
be seen between vent valve and rubber gasket,
replace cap. A replacement cap must be the typedesigned for a coolant reserve/overflow system with a
completely sealed diaphragm spring and a rubber
gasket. This gasket is used to seal to radiator filler
neck top surface. Use of proper cap will allow coolant
return to radiator.
WATER PUMP - 5.9L
DESCRIPTION
The water pump is located on the engine front
cover, and has an integral pulley attached (Fig. 40).
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the rear
of a shaft that rotates in a bearing pressed into the
water pump body. The body has a small hole for ven-
tilation. The water pump seals are lubricated by
antifreeze in the coolant mixture. Additional lubrica-
tion is not necessary.
OPERATION
A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant
through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold,
radiator core, cooling system hoses and heater core,
this coolant absorbs the heat generated when the
engine is running. The pump is driven by the engine
crankshaft via a drive belt.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐWATER PUMP
A quick test to determine if pump is working is to
check if heater warms properly. A defective water
pump will not be able to circulate heated coolant
through the long heater hose to the heater core.
Fig. 38 Pressure Testing Radiator Cap - Typical
1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
Fig. 39 Radiator Pressure Cap
1 - STAINLESS-STEEL SWIVEL TOP
2 - RUBBER SEALS
3 - VENT VALVE
4 - RADIATOR TANK
5 - FILLER NECK
6 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
7 - MAIN SPRING
8 - GASKET RETAINER
7 - 62 ENGINEDR
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)

REMOVAL
The water pump on all models can be removed
without discharging the air conditioning system (if
equipped).
The water pump on all gas powered engines is
bolted directly to the engine timing chain case/cover.
On the 5.9L gas powered engine, a gasket is used
as a seal between the water pump and timing chain
case/cover.
If water pump is replaced because of bearing/shaft
damage or leaking shaft seal, the mechanical cooling
fan assembly should also be inspected. Inspect for
fatigue cracks, loose blades or loose rivets that could
have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan if
any of these conditions are found. Also check condi-
tion of the thermal viscous fan drive (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
(1) Disconnect the negative cable.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Do not waste reusable coolant. If solution is clean,
drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
(3) Remove the radiator fan (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL) (Fig. 41).
(5) Remove the lower radiator hose and heater
hose from the water pump.
(6) Loosen the heater hose coolant return tube
mounting bolt (Fig. 42) and remove the tube from the
water pump. Discard the old tube O-ring.
(7) Remove the water pump mounting bolts (Fig.
43).(8) Loosen the clamp at the water pump end of
bypass hose (Fig. 42). Slip the bypass hose from the
Fig. 40 Water Pump Location Ð Typical
1 - WATER PUMP BYPASS HOSE
2 - FAN BLADE ASSEMBLY
3 - VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
4 - WATER PUMP AND PULLEY
Fig. 41 Belt Tensioner 5.9L V-8 Engine
1 - IDLER PULLEY
2 - TENSIONER
3 - FAN BLADE
Fig. 42 Coolant Return Tube 5.9L
1 - COOLANT RETURN TUBE
2 - WATER PUMP
3 - TUBE MOUNTING BOLT
4 - O-RING
DRENGINE 7 - 63
WATER PUMP - 5.9L (Continued)