Oss DODGE RAM 2003 Service Repair Manual

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TIRE WEAR
PATTERNS
Under inflation will cause wear on the shoulders of
tire. Over inflation will cause wear at the center of
tire.
Excessive camber causes the tire to run at an
angle to the road. One side of tread is then worn
more than the other (Fig. 15).
Excessive toe-in or toe-out causes wear on the
tread edges and a feathered effect across the tread
(Fig. 15).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TIRE/VEHICLE
LEAD
Use the following Vehicle Lead Diagnosis And Cor-
rection Chart to diagnose and correct a vehicle lead
or drift problem (Fig. 16).
Fig. 15 Tire Wear Patterns
22 - 8 TIRES/WHEELSDR
TIRES (Continued)

VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations (Refer to LUBRI-
CATION & MAINTENANCE/HOISTING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
23 - 2 BODYDR
BODY (Continued)

ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY LUBRICATION
All mechanisms and linkages should be lubricated
when necessary. This will maintain ease of operation
and provide protection against rust and excessive
wear. The weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to
prolong their life as well as to improve door sealing.
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operat-
ing mechanisms should be inspected and cleaned.
Pivot/sliding contact areas on the mechanisms should
then be lubricated.
(1) When necessary, lubricate the operating mech-
anisms with the specified lubricants.
(2) Apply silicone lubricant to a cloth and wipe it
on door seals to avoid over-spray that can soil pas-
senger's clothing.
(3) Before applying lubricant, the component
should be wiped clean. After lubrication, any excess
lubricant should be removed.
(4) The hood latch, latch release mechanism, latch
striker, and safety latch should be lubricated period-
ically.
(5) The door lock cylinders should be lubricated
twice each year (preferably autumn and spring).
²Spray a small amount of lock cylinder lubricant
directly into the lock cylinder.
²Apply a small amount to the key and insert it
into the lock cylinder.
²Rotate it to the locked position and then back to
the unlocked position several times.
²Remove the key. Wipe the lubricant from it with
a clean cloth to avoid soiling of clothing.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEAT STAKING
(1) Remove trim panel.(2) Bend or move the trim panel components at
the heat staked joints. Observe the heat staked loca-
tions and/or component seams for looseness.
(3) Heat stake the components.
(a) If the heat staked or component seam loca-
tion is loose, hold the two components tightly
together and using a soldering gun with a flat tip,
melt the material securing the components
together. Do not over heat the affected area, dam-
age to the exterior of the trim panel may occur.
(b) If the heat staked material is broken or miss-
ing, use a hot glue gun to apply new material to
the area to be repaired. The panels that are being
heat staked must be held together while the apply-
ing the glue. Once the new material is in place, it
may be necessary to use a soldering gun to melt
the newly applied material. Do not over heat the
affected area, damage to the exterior of the trim
panel may occur.
(4) Allow the repaired area to cool and verify the
repair.
(5) Install trim panel.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PLASTIC BODY
PANEL REPAIR
There are many different types of plastics used in
today's automotive environment. We group plastics in
three different categories: Rigid, Semi-Rigid, and
Flexible. Any of these plastics may require the use of
an adhesion promoter for repair. These types of plas-
tic are used extensively on DaimlerChrysler Motors
vehicles. Always follow repair material manufactur-
er's plastic identification and repair procedures.
Rigid Plastics:
Examples of rigid plastic use: Fascias, Hoods,
Doors, and other Body Panels, which include SMC,
ABS, and Polycarbonates.
Semi-Rigid Plastics:
Examples of semi-rigid plastic use: Interior Panels,
Under Hood Panels, and other Body Trim Panels.
Flexible Plastics:
Examples of flexible plastic use: Fascias, Body
Moldings, and upper and lower Fascia Covers.
Repair Procedure:
The repair procedure for all three categories of
plastics is basically the same. The one difference is
the material used for the repair. The materials must
be specific for each substrate, rigid repair material
for rigid plastic repair, semi-rigid repair material for
semi-rigid plastic repair and flexible repair material
for flexible plastic repair.
DRBODY 23 - 3
BODY (Continued)

²Panel repair for both flexible and rigid panels
are basically the same. The primary difference
between flexible panel repair and rigid panel repair
is in the adhesive materials used (Fig. 5).
²The technician should first decide what needs to
be done when working on any type of body panel.
One should determine if it is possible to return the
damage part to its original strength and appearance
without exceeding the value of the replacement part.
²When plastic repairs are required, it is recom-
mended that the part be left on the vehicle when
every possible. That will save time, and the panel
will remain stationary during the repair. Misalign-ment can cause stress in the repair areas and can
result in future failure.
VISUAL INSPECTION
Composite materials can mask the severity of an
accident. Adhesive bond lines, interior structure of
the doors, and steel structures need to be inspected
carefully to get a true damage assessment. Close
inspection may require partial removal of interior
trim or inner panels.
Identify the type of repair: Puncture or Crack -
Damage that has penetrated completely through the
panel. Damage is confined to one general area; a
panel section is not required. However, a backer
panel, open fiberglass tape, or matted material must
be bonded from behind (Fig. 7) (Fig. 6).
PANEL SURFACE PREPARATION
If a body panel has been punctured, cracked, or
crushed, the damaged area must be removed from
the panel to achieve a successful repair. All spider
web cracks leading away from a damaged area must
be stopped or removed. To stop a running crack in a
panel, drilla6mm(0.250 in.) hole at the end of the
crack farthest away from the damage. If spider web
cracks can not be stopped, the panel would require
replacement. The surfaces around the damaged area
Fig. 2 SOFTENED EDGES
1 - SOFTENED EDGES
2 - PANEL ADHESIVE
3 - BONDING STRIP
Fig. 3 PANEL REINFORCEMENT
1 - PANEL ADHESIVE
2 - REINFORCEMENT
Fig. 4 BEVELING ANGLE - 20 DEGREE
Fig. 5 FIBERGLASS TAPE
Fig. 6 DAMAGE COMPONENT
1 - PUNCTURE
DRBODY 23 - 7
BODY (Continued)

should be stripped of paint and freed from wax and
oil. Scuff surfaces around repair area with 360 grit
wet/dry sandpaper, or equivalent, to assure adhesion
of repair materials.
PATCHING PANELS
An panel that has extensive puncture type damage
can be repaired by cutting out the damaged material
(Fig. 7). Use a suitable reciprocating saw or cut off
wheel to remove the section of the panel that is dam-
aged. The piece cut out can be used as a template to
shape the new patch. It is not necessary to have
access to the back of the panel to install a patch.
Bevel edges of cutout at 20 degrees to expose a larger
bonding area on the outer side. This will allow for an
increased reinforcement areas.
PANEL PATCH FABRICATIONS
A patch can be fabricated from any rigid fiberglass
panel that has comparable contour with the repair
area. Lift gates and fenders can be used to supply
patch material. If existing material is not available
or compatible, a patch can be constructed with adhe-
sive and reinforcement mesh (dry wall tape). Perform
the following operation if required:
(1) Cover waxed paper or plastic with adhesive
backed nylon mesh (dry wall tape) larger than the
patch required (Fig. 8).
(2) Tape waxed paper or plastic sheet with mesh to
a surface that has a compatible contour to the repair
area.
(3) Apply a liberal coat of adhesive over the rein-
forcement mesh (Fig. 8). If necessary apply a second
or third coat of adhesive and mesh after firs coat has
cured. The thickness of the patch should be the same
as the repair area.(4) After patch has cured, peel waxed paper or
plastic from the back of the patch.
(5) If desired, a thin film coat of adhesive can be
applied to the back of the patch to cover mesh for
added strength.
PANEL PATCH INSTALLATION
(1) Make a paper or cardboard pattern the size
and shape of the cutout hole in the panel.
(2) Trim 3 mm (0.125 in.) from edges of pattern so
patch will have a gap between connecting surfaces.
(3) Using the pattern as a guide, cut the patch to
size.
(4) Cut scrap pieces of patch material into 50 mm
(2 in.) squares to use as patch supports to sustain
the patch in the cutout.
(5) Drill 4 mm (0.160 in.) holes 13 mm (0.5 in.) in
from edge of cutout hole (Fig. 7).
(6) Drill 4 mm (0.160 in.) holes 13 mm (0.5 in.)
away from edge of patch across from holes drilled
around cutout.
(7) Drill 3 mm (0.125 in.) holes in the support
squares 13 mm (0.5 in.) from the edge in the center
of one side.
(8) Scuff the backside of the body panel around the
cutout hole with a scuff pad or sandpaper.
(9) Mix enough adhesive to cover one side of all
support squares.
(10) Apply adhesive to cover one side of all support
squares.
(11) Using number 8 sheet metal screws, secure
support squares to back side of body panel with
adhesive sandwiched between the panel and squares
(Fig. 9).
(12) Position patch in cutout against support
squares and adjust patch until the gap is equal along
all sides (Fig. 10).
Fig. 7 DAMAGED PANEL CUTOUT AND PATCH
1 - CUTOUT
2 - DAMAGED BODY PANEL
3-4MM(0.160 IN.) HOLES
4 - PATCH CUT TO SIZE
Fig. 8 FABRICATED PANEL
1 - STRUCTURAL ADHESIVE
2 - FIBERGLASS CLOTH OR FIBERGLASS MESH TAPE
3 - WIDTH OF V-GROOVE
4 - WAXED PAPER
23 - 8 BODYDR
BODY (Continued)

(13) Drill 3 mm (0.125 in.) holes in the support
squares through the pre-drilled holes in the patch.
(14) Apply a coat of adhesive to the exposed ends
of the support squares (Fig. 11).
(15) Install screws to hold the patch to support
squares (Fig. 12). Tighten screws until patch surface
is flush with panel surface.
(16) Allow adhesive to cure, and remove all screws.
(17) Using a 125 mm (5 in.) 24 grit disc grinder,
grind a 50 mm (2 in.) to 75 mm (3 in.) wide and 2
mm (0.080 in.) deep path across the gaps around the
patch (Fig. 13). With compressed air, blow dust from
around patch.
(18) Apply adhesive backed nylon mesh (dry wall
tape) over gaps around patch (Fig. 14).
(19) Mix enough adhesive to cover the entire patch
area.
(20) Apply adhesive over the mesh around patch,
and smooth epoxy with a wide spreader to reduce fin-
ish grinding. Use two to three layers of mesh and
adhesive to create a stronger repair (Fig. 15).
Fig. 9 SECURE SUPPORT SQUARES TO BODY
PANEL
1 - SUPPORT SQUARES
2 - SCREWS
3 - DAMAGED BODY PANEL
Fig. 10 POSITION PATCH IN CUTOUT AND ALIGN
1 - CUTOUT
2 - SUPPORT SQUARES
Fig. 11 APPLY ADHESIVE TO SUPPORT SQUARES
1 - APPLICATOR
2 - SUPPORT SQUARES
3 - ADHESIVE
DRBODY 23 - 9
BODY (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - BUZZ, SQUEAK &
RATTLE
Buzz, Squeak & Rattles (BSR) may be caused by
any one or more of the following and may be cor-
rected as indicated:
²Loose fasteners should be tightened to specifica-
tions.
²Damaged or missing clips should be replaced.
²Damaged trim panels should be replaced.²Incorrectly installed trim panels should be rein-
stalled properly.
Many BSR complaints such as loose trim, can be
serviced using the MopartParts BSR Noise Reduc-
tion Kit. This kit contains various tapes including
foam, flock and anti-squeak used to eliminate noises
caused by metal, plastic and vinyl components. Long
life lubricants and greases can also be used on a vari-
ety of components. Refer to the Buzz, Squeak & Rat-
tle Kit table for material contents and usage.
BUZZ, SQUEAK & RATTLE KIT
ITEM FEATURES APPLICATIONS SERVICE TEMP
Itch And Squeak
TapeAn abrasion resistant material
thin enough to conform to most
irregular surfaces. Stops most
itches and squeaks.Between metal and metal,
metal and plastic, metal and
vinyl, vinyl and plastic. Interior.
Examples: Trim panels and
bezels.-40É to 225É
Fahrenheit
(-40É to 107É
Celsius)
Black Nylon Flock Nylon Flock with an aggressive
acrylic adhesive. Provides for
cushioning and compression fit,
also isolates components.
Water-resistant.Between metal and metal,
metal and plastic, vinyl and
plastic.
Examples: Pull cups, bezels,
clips, ducts, top cover to glass,
cowl panel.-40É to 180É
Fahrenheit
(-40É to 82É Celsius)
High Density
Urethane FoamTear resistant, highly resilient
and durable.Between metal and metal,
metal and plastic. Water-
resistant.
Examples: I/P, heavy metal
rattles, isolating brackets.-40É to 180É
Fahrenheit
(-40É to 82É Celsius)
Open Cell Foam
TapeSoft foam conforms to irregular
surfaces.Wire harness and connector
wrap.
Examples: Seals, gasket,
wiring, heat ducts.-40É to 180É
Fahrenheit
(-40É to 82É Celsius)
Closed Cell Low
Density Foam TapeSoft, conformable. Water-
resistant.Wherever bulk is needed.
Prevents closing flutters and
rattles when applied to door
watershield.
Examples: Door, I/P.-40É to 180É
Fahrenheit
(-40É to 82É Celsius)
NYETGrease 880 Long life. Suspensions.
Examples: Strut busings, sway
bars.-40É to 390É
Fahrenheit
(-40É to 200É
Celsius)
KrytoxTOil Long life. Will not dry out or
harm plastics or rubber.When access is not possible, oil
will migrate to condition. Vinyl,
rubber, plastic, metal.
Examples: Convertible top
bushings, pull cups trim panel
inserts.-30É to 400É
Fahrenheit
(-34É to 205É
Celsius)
KrytoxTGrease Long life. Will not dry out or
harm plastics or rubber.Vinyl, rubber, plastic, metal,
glass.
Examples: Weather-strips,
backlite and windshield
moldings.-30É to 400É
Fahrenheit
(-34É to 205É
Celsius)
DRBODY 23 - 11
BODY (Continued)

Description N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Instrument panel top bolts 12 9 Ð
Load floor nuts 25 18 Ð
Load floor/rear seat bolts 40 30 Ð
Overhead/b-pillar grab handle bolts 6 Ð 55
Radiator and condenser to radiator crossmember bolts 8 Ð 75
Radiator upper crossmember bolts 28 21 Ð
Rear door glass lift plate nuts 10 Ð 89
Rear door glass run channels 10 Ð 89
Rear door hinge to b-pillar bolts 28 21 Ð
Rear door hinge to door bolts/nuts 28 21 Ð
Rear door inside handle bolt 9 Ð 80
Rear door latch adjustment screw 3 Ð 30
Rear door latch bolts 10 Ð 89
Rear door latch striker bolts 28 21 Ð
Rear door regulator bolts 10 Ð 89
Rear door regulator stabilizer nuts 10 Ð 89
Rear door remote handle actuator nuts 10 Ð 89
Rear fender bottom screws 7 Ð 60
Rear fender nuts 7 Ð 60
Rear fender support bracket bolts 11 8 Ð
Rear seat assembly bolts*40 30 Ð
Rear seat back hinge bolts*25 18 Ð
Rear seat cushion hinge bolts*32 24 Ð
Rear shoulder belt anchor bolts 40 30 Ð
Rear view mirror set screw 1 Ð 15
Shifter knob nut 27 20 Ð
Side view mirror nuts 7 Ð 60
Tailgate check cable bolt 23 17 Ð
Tailgate hinge/pivot screws 34 25 Ð
Tailgate latch bolts 23 17 Ð
Tailgate latch striker 34 25 Ð
Tailgate release handle nuts 7 Ð 60
NOTE: *Seat fasteners should be discarded and
replaced with new fasteners during assembly.
DRBODY 23 - 13
BODY (Continued)

EXTERIOR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY SIDE MOLDINGS
REMOVAL.............................36
INSTALLATION.........................36
BODY ISOLATORS
REMOVAL.............................36
INSTALLATION.........................37
CARGO BOX
REMOVAL.............................37
INSTALLATION.........................37
CARGO BOX - TIE DOWN
REMOVAL.............................37
INSTALLATION.........................37
COWL GRILLE
REMOVAL.............................38
INSTALLATION.........................38
EXTERIOR NAME PLATES
REMOVAL.............................38
INSTALLATION.........................38
FRONT FENDER
REMOVAL.............................39
INSTALLATION.........................39
FUEL FILL DOOR
REMOVAL.............................39
INSTALLATION.........................39GRILLE
REMOVAL.............................39
INSTALLATION.........................40
GRILLE FRAME
REMOVAL.............................40
INSTALLATION.........................40
FRONT WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD
REMOVAL.............................40
INSTALLATION.........................41
REAR WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD
REMOVAL.............................41
INSTALLATION.........................41
SIDE VIEW MIRROR
REMOVAL.............................41
INSTALLATION.........................41
UPPER RADIATOR CROSSMEMBER
REMOVAL.............................42
INSTALLATION.........................42
SIDE VIEW MIRROR GLASS
REMOVAL.............................42
INSTALLATION.........................44
REAR FENDER
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................44
BODY SIDE MOLDINGS
REMOVAL
NOTE: Body side moldings are attached to the body
panels with adhesive tape.
(1) Apply a length of masking tape on the body
panel, parallel to the top edge of the molding and to
one end to use as a guide for installation, if neces-
sary.
(2) If temperature is below 21ÉC (70ÉF) warm
molding with a heat lamp or gun. Do not exceed 52ÉC
(120ÉF) when heating molding.
(3) Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent,
remove and discard the molding from the outside of
the body panel.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean all residue from the body side
molding attachment area of the body panel.(2) Wipe area with a clean lint free cloth moist-
ened with a 50% solution of water and alcohol and
wipe dry immediately with a dry lint free cloth.
(3) Apply new body side molding using the guide
tape on the body panel and apply consistent and uni-
form pressure of approximately 40 p.s.i. over the
entire surface of the molding.
BODY ISOLATORS
REMOVAL
(1) Loosen all cab to frame mounting bolts (six
standard cab, eight quad cab). (Fig. 1)
(2) Remove the mounting bolts and rebound cush-
ions
(3) Using a floor jack and block of wood under the
cab sill, lift the body to gain access to the isolators.
(4) Remove the isolators.
(5) Install new isolators and repeat steps one
through 4, for the opposite side.
23 - 36 EXTERIORDR

UPPER RADIATOR
CROSSMEMBER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the hood latch. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
HOOD/LATCH - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove the radiator and condenser bolts. (Fig.
14)
(3) Remove the bolts and remove the crossmember.
(Fig. 15)
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the crossmember and install the bolts.
(2) Tighten the bolts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the radiator and condenser bolts and
tighten to 8 N´m (75 in. lbs.).
(4) Install the hood latch. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
HOOD/LATCH - INSTALLATION)
SIDE VIEW MIRROR GLASS
REMOVAL
WARNING: ALWAYS WEAR EYE AND HAND PRO-
TECTION WHEN SERVICING THE MIRROR ASSEM-
BLY. FAILURE TO OBSERVE THESE WARNINGS
MAY RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY FROM BRO-
KEN GLASS.
Standard Mirror
(1) Position the mirror glass so that it's facing in
toward the vehicle as far as possible. (Fig. 16)
(2) Disengage the rear housing cover retaining
tabs and remove the cover. (Fig. 17)
(3) Disengage the lower glass retaining tab to
motor. (Fig. 18)
(4) Slide glass up and remove from motor.
(5) Disconnect the two heated mirror electrical
connectors, if equipped.
Fig. 14 CONDENSER/RADIATOR FASTENERS
1 - CONDENSER BOLT
2 - RADIATOR BOLT
3 - RADIATOR CROSSMEMBER
Fig. 15 RADIATOR CROSSMEMBER
1 - BOLTS (2)
2 - CROSSMEMBER
3 - BOLTS (2)
Fig. 16 STANDARD MIRROR POSITION
1 - RETAINING TABS (2)
2 - MIRROR HOUSING
3 - MIRROR GLASS
23 - 42 EXTERIORDR