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Page 1470 of 2895

(14) Remove crankshaft damper(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
NOTE: Do not remove the hoses from the power
steering pump.
(15) Remove power steering pump and set aside.
(16) Remove the dipstick support bolt.
(17) Drain the engine oil.
(18) Remove the oil pan and pick up tube(Refer to
9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove water pump for
timing cover removal.
(19) Remove timing cover bolts and remove cover.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean timing chain cover and block surface.
NOTE: Always install a new gasket on timing cover.
(2) Install cover and new gasket. Tighten fasteners
to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
NOTE: The large lifting stud is torqued to 55 N´m
(40 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the oil pan and pick up tube(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
(4) Install the A/C compressor.
(5) Install the generator.
(6) Install power steering pump.
(7) Install the dipstick support bolt.
(8) Install the thermostat housing.
(9) Install crankshaft damper(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Install accessory drive belt tensioner assembly
and both idler pulleys.
(11) Install radiator lower hose.
(12) Install both heater hoses.
(13) Install radiator fan shroud.
(14) Install the fan and fan drive assembly
(15) Install the accessory drive belt.
(16) Install the coolant bottle and washer bottle.
(17) Install the upper radiator hose.
(18) Install the air cleaner assembly.
(19) Fill cooling system.
(20) Refill engine oil.
(21) Connect the battery negative cable.
TIMING/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Drain cooling system.
(3) Remove Timing Chain Cover.
CAUTION: The camshaft pin and the slot in the cam
sprocket must be clocked at 12:00. The crankshaft
keyway must be clocked at 2:00. The crankshaft
sprocket must be installed so that the dots and or
paint marking is at 6:00.
(4) Re-install the vibration damper bolt finger
tight. Using a suitable socket and breaker bar, rotate
the crankshaft to align timing chain sprockets and
keyways as shown (Fig. 31).
(5) Retract tensioner shoe until hole in shoe lines
up with hole in bracket. Slide a suitable pin into the
holes.
(6) Remove camshaft sprocket attaching bolt and
remove timing chain with crankshaft and camshaft
sprockets.
(7) If tensioner assembly is to be replaced, remove
the tensioner to block bolts and remove tensioner
assembly.
Fig. 31 5.7L TIMING MARK ALIGNMENT
1 - Chain Tensioner
2 - Camshaft Sprocket
3 - Crankshaft Sprocket
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 221
TIMING/CHAIN COVER (Continued)
Page 1471 of 2895

INSTALLATION
(1) If tensioner assembly is being replaced, install
tensioner and mounting bolts. Torque bolts to 28 N´m
(250 in. lbs.).
(2) Retract tensioner if required.
CAUTION: The camshaft pin and the slot in the cam
sprocket must be clocked at 12:00. The crankshaft
keyway must be clocked at 2:00. The crankshaft
sprocket must be installed so that the dots and or
paint marking is at 6:00.
(3) Place both camshaft sprocket and crankshaft
sprocket on the bench with timing marks on exact
imaginary center line through both camshaft and
crankshaft bores (Fig. 32).
CAUTION: The timing chain must be installed with
the single plated link aligned with the dot and or
paint marking on the camshaft sprocket. The crank-
shaft sprocket is aligned with the dot and or paint
marking on the sprocket between two plated timing
chain links.
(4) Place timing chain around both sprockets (Fig.
32).
(5) Lift sprockets and chain (keep sprockets tight
against the chain in position as shown).(6) Slide both sprockets evenly over their respec-
tive shafts and check alignment of timing marks.
(7) Install the camshaft bolt. Tighten the bolt to
122 N´m (90 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8)Remove tensioner pin.Again, verify align-
ment of timing marks.
(9) Install the oil pump(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(10) Install the oil pan and pick up(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
(11) Install the timing chain cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(12) Fill cooling system(Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(13) Connect battery negative cable.
(14) Start engine and check for oil and coolant
leaks.
TIMING CHAIN/TENSIONER
DESCRIPTION
The timing chain tensioner is a stamped steel con-
stant tension mechanical design. It is mounted to the
front of the engine, behind the timing chain drive.
OPERATION
The timing chain tension is maintained by routing
the timing chain through the tensioner assembly. A
nylon covered spring steel arm presses on the timing
chain maintaining the correct chain tension.
Fig. 32 5.7L TIMING MARK ALIGNMENT
1 - Chain Tensioner
2 - Camshaft Sprocket
3 - Crankshaft Sprocket
9 - 222 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
TIMING/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS (Continued)
Page 1503 of 2895

Main Bearing Undersize Availability List
²0.25 mm (0.001 inch)
²0.051 mm (0.002 inch)
²0.076 mm (0.003 inch)
²0.254 mm (0.010 inch)
²0.305 mm (0.012 inch)
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the oil pump from the rear main bear-
ing cap (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL
PUMP - REMOVAL).
(3) Identify bearing caps before removal. Remove
bearing caps one at a time.
(4) Remove upper half of bearing by inserting
Crankshaft Main Bearing Remover/Installer Tool
C-3059 into the oil hole of crankshaft (Fig. 28).
(5) Slowly rotate crankshaft clockwise, forcing out
upper half of bearing shell.
INSTALLATION
Only one main bearing should be selectively fitted
while all other main bearing caps are properly tight-
ened. All bearing capbolts removed during service
procedures are to be cleaned and oiled before instal-
lation.
When installing a new upper bearing shell, slightly
chamfer the sharp edges from the plain side.
(1) Start bearing in place, and insert Crankshaft
Main Bearing Remover/Installer Tool C-3059 into oil
hole of crankshaft (Fig. 28).
(2) Slowly rotate crankshaft counterclockwise slid-
ing the bearing into position. Remove Tool C-3059.
(3) Install the bearing caps. Clean and oil the
bolts. Tighten the capbolts to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install the oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).(5) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(6) Start engine check for leaks.
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
FRONT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft front seal is a one piece viton seal
with a steel housing. The front seal is located in the
engine front cover.
OPERATION
The crankshaft seals prevent oil from leaking from
around the crankshaft, either from the rear of the
engine or from the engine front cover.
REMOVAL
The oil seal can be replaced without removing the
timing chain cover, provided that the cover is not
misaligned.
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(3) If front seal is suspected of leaking, check front
oil seal alignment to crankshaft. The seal installa-
tion/alignment Tool 6635, should fit with minimum
interference. If tool does not fit, the cover must be
removed and installed properly.
Fig. 27 Main Bearing
Fig. 28 Upper Main Bearing Removal and
Installation with Tool C-3059
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3059
2 - BEARING
3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3059
4 - BEARING
9 - 254 ENGINE - 5.9LDR
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS (Continued)
Page 1508 of 2895

intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have
been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run
engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the
plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by for-
eign particles wedged between the plunger and the
tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in
the down position. This heavy click will be accompa-
nied by excessive clearance between the valve stem
and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet
assembly should be removed for inspection and clean-
ing.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
LEAK-DOWN TEST
After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for
specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash
operation (Fig. 37).
Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tap-
pet tester away from the ram of the Universal Leak-
Down Tester.
(1) Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch)
diameter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tap-
pet.(2) Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the
ball bearing) inside the tester cup.
(3) Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram
until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten
the hex nut on the ram.
(4) Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet
test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.
(5) Swing the weighted arm onto the push rod and
pump the tappet plunger up and down to remove air.
When the air bubbles cease, swing the weighted arm
away and allow the plunger to rise to the normal
position.
(6) Adjust the nose of the ram to align the pointer
with the SET mark on the scale of the tester and
tighten the hex nut.
(7) Slowly swing the weighted arm onto the push
rod.
(8) Rotate the cup by turning the handle at the
base of the tester clockwise one revolution every 2
seconds.
(9) Observe the leak-down time interval from the
instant the pointer aligns with the START mark on
the scale until the pointer aligns with the 0.125
mark. A normally functioning tappet will require
20-110 seconds to leak-down. Discard tappets with
leak-down time interval not within this specification.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the air cleaner assembly and air in-let
hose.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
Fig. 37 Leak-Down Tester
1 - POINTER
2 - WEIGHTED ARM
3 - RAM
4 - CUP
5 - HANDLE
6 - PUSH ROD
DRENGINE - 5.9L 9 - 259
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (Continued)
Page 1511 of 2895

(3) Immerse the piston head and rings in clean
engine oil. Slide Piston Ring Compressor Tool C-385
over the piston and tighten with the special wrench
(part of Tool C-385).Be sure position of rings
does not change during this operation.
(4) Install connecting rod bolt protectors on rod
bolts. The long protector should be installed on the
numbered side of the connecting rod.
(5) Rotate crankshaft so that the connecting rod
journal is on the center of the cylinder bore. Be sure
connecting rod and cylinder bore number are the
same. Insert rod and piston into cylinder bore and
guide rod over the crankshaft journal.
(6) Tap the piston down in cylinder bore, using a
hammer handle. At the same time, guide connecting
rod into position on crankshaft journal.
(7) The notch, or groove, on top of piston must be
pointing toward front of engine. The larger chamfer
of the connecting rod bore must be installed toward
crankshaft journal fillet.
(8) Install rod caps. Be sure connecting rod, con-
necting rod cap, and cylinder bore number are the
same. Install nuts on cleaned and oiled rod bolts and
tighten nuts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(10) Install the cylinder head (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
(11) Install the engine into the vehicle (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - INSTALLATION).
PISTON RINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PISTON RING
FITTING
(1) Measurement of end gaps:
(a) Measure piston ring gap 2 in. from bottom of
cylinder bore. An inverted piston can be used to
push the rings down to ensure positioning rings
squarely in the cylinder bore before measuring.
(b) Insert feeler gauge in the gap. The top com-
pression ring gap should be between 0.254-0.508
mm (0.010-0.020 in.). The second compression ring
gap should be between 0.508-0.762 mm
(0.020-0.030 in.). The oil ring gap should be 0.254-
1.270 mm (0.010-0.050 in.).
(c) Rings with insufficient end gap may be prop-
erly filed to the correct dimension. Rings with
excess gaps should not be used.
(2) Install rings, and confirm ring side clearance:
(a)
Install oil rings being careful not to nick or
scratch the piston. Install the oil control rings accord-
ing to instructions in the package. It is not necessary
to use a tool to install the upper and lower rails.
Insert oil rail spacer first, then side rails.
(b) Install the second compression rings using
Installation Tool C-4184. The compression rings
must be installed with the identification mark face
up (toward top of piston) and chamfer facing down.
An identification mark on the ring is a drill point,
a stamped letter ªOº, an oval depression, or the
word ªTOPº (Fig. 40) (Fig. 42).
(c) Using a ring installer, install the top com-
pression ring with the chamfer facing up (Fig. 41)
(Fig. 42). An identification mark on the ring is a
drill point, a stamped letter ªOº, an oval depression
or the word ªTOPº facing up.
(d) M
easure side clearance between piston ring
and ring land. Clearance should be 0.074-0.097 mm
(0.0029-0.0038 in.) for the compression rings. The
steel rail oil ring should be free in groove, but should
not exceed 0.246 mm (0.0097 in.) side clearance.
(e) Pistons with insufficient, or excessive, side
clearance should be replaced.
(3) Orient the rings:
(a) Arrange top compression ring 90É counter-
clockwise from the oil ring rail gap (Fig. 43).
Fig. 40 Second Compression Ring Identification
(Typical)
1 - SECOND COMPRESSION RING (BLACK CAST IRON)
2 - CHAMFER
3 - TWO DOTS
Fig. 41 Top Compression Ring Identification (Typical)
1 - TOP COMPRESSION RING (GRAY IN COLOR)
2 - CHAMFER
3 - ONE DOT
9 - 262 ENGINE - 5.9LDR
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)
Page 1512 of 2895

(b) Arrange second compression ring 90É clock-
wise from the oil ring rail gap (Fig. 43).
VIBRATION DAMPER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove the cooling system fan (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(4) Remove vibration damper bolt and washer from
end of crankshaft.
(5) Position Special Tool 8513 Insert into the
crankshaft nose.(6) Install Special Tool 1026 Three Jaw Puller onto
the vibration damper (Fig. 44).
(7) Pull vibration damper off of the crankshaft.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Thoroughly remove any contaminants
from the crankshaft nose and the vibration damper
bore. Failure to do so can cause sever damage to
the crankshaft.
(1)
Position the vibration damper onto the crankshaft.
(2) Place installing tool, part of Puller Tool Set
C-3688 in position and press the vibration damper
onto the crankshaft (Fig. 45).
(3) Install the crankshaft bolt and washer. Tighten
the bolt to 244 N´m (180 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(5)
Position the fan shroud and install the bolts.
Tighten the retainer bolts to 11 N´m (95 in. lbs.) torque.
(6) Install the cooling fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
INSTALLATION).
(7) Connect the battery negative cable.
Fig. 42 Compression Ring Chamfer Location (Typical)
1 - CHAMFER
2 - TOP COMPRESSION RING
3 - SECOND COMPRESSION RING
4 - PISTON
5 - CHAMFER
Fig. 43 Proper Ring Installation
1 - OIL RING SPACER GAP
2 - SECOND COMPRESSION RING GAP OIL RING RAIL GAP
(TOP)
3 - OIL RING RAIL GAP (BOTTOM)
4 - TOP COMPRESSION RING GAP
Fig. 44 Vibration Damper Removal
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8513 INSERT
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 1026
Fig. 45 Vibration Damper Installation
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3688
DRENGINE - 5.9L 9 - 263
PISTON RINGS (Continued)
Page 1519 of 2895

(6) Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on
dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in the Maintenance Schedule. This infor-
mation can be found in the owner's manual.
TO CHANGE ENGINE OIL
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Hoist vehicle.
(3) Remove oil fill cap.
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow
oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for
stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug and
gasket if damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase.
(7) Change oil filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL FILTER - REMOVAL).
(8) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/
FLUID TYPES - DESCRIPTION) and amount of
engine oil (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTE-
NANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(9) Install oil fill cap.
(10) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(11) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-
flow, disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Cor-
poration recommends a Mopartor equivalent oil
filter be used.
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise to remove
it from the cylinder block oil filter boss (Fig. 54).
(4) When filter separates from adapter nipple, tip
gasket end upward to minimize oil spill. Remove fil-
ter from vehicle.
(5) With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing
surface (Fig. 55) of oil and grime.
(6) Install new filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL FILTER - INSTALLATION).
INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil or chassis grease.(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 55) hand
tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(3) Add oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/
OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove engine oil dipstick.
(3) Raise vehicle.
(4) Drain engine oil.
(5) Remove exhaust pipe.
(6) Remove left engine to transmission strut.
(7) Loosen the right side engine support bracket
cushion thru-bolt nut and raise the engine slightly.
Remove oil pan by sliding backward and out.
(8) Remove the one-piece gasket.
CLEANING
Clean the block and pan gasket surfaces.
Fig. 54 Oil Filter RemovalÐTypical
1 - ENGINE OIL FILTER
2 - OIL FILTER WRENCH
Fig. 55 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 - SEALING SURFACE
2 - RUBBER GASKET
3 - OIL FILTER
9 - 270 ENGINE - 5.9LDR
OIL (Continued)
Page 1554 of 2895

INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES &
SEATS
DESCRIPTION
The valves are made of heat resistant steel, and
have chrome plated stems to prevent scuffing. The
intake and exhaust valves are both similar in head
diameter and overall length, but they have unique
face angles which makes them non-interchangeable.
The valves are distinguished by unique dimples on
the exhaust valve head (Fig. 21).
The exhaust valve springs are made from high
strength, chrome silicon steel. The exhaust valve
springs are also exhaust brake compatible.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - VALVES, GUIDES
AND SPRINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(2) Support cylinder head on stands, or install
head bolts upside down (through combustion surface
side) to protect injector tips from damage from work
bench.
(3) Install the valve spring compressor mounting
base as shown in (Fig. 22).
(4) Install the compressor top plate, washer, and
nut. Using a suitable wrench, tighten the nut (clock-
wise) to compress the valve springs (Fig. 23) and
remove the locks.
(5) Rotate the compressor nut counter-clockwise to
relieve tension on the springs. Remove the spring
compressor.(6) Remove the retainers, springs, valve seals (if
necessary), and valves (Fig. 24). Arrange or number
all components so they can be installed in their orig-
inal locations.
(7) Repeat the procedure on all cylinders to be ser-
viced.
CLEANING
Clean the valve stems with crocus cloth or a
Scotch-BriteŸ pad. Remove carbon with a soft wire
brush. Clean valves, springs, retainers, and valve
retaining locks in a suitable solvent. Rinse in hot
water and blow dry with compressed air.
Fig. 21 Valve Identification
1 - INTAKE VALVES
2 - EXHAUST VALVES
Fig. 22 Spring Compressor Mounting BaseÐPart of
Tool 8319±A
1 - COMPRESSOR MOUNTING BASE
Fig. 23 Compressing Valve Springs with Tool
8319±A
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8319
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 305
Page 1557 of 2895

STANDARD PROCEDURE - VALVE LASH
ADJUSTMENT AND VERIFICATION
NOTE: To obtain accurate readings, valve lash mea-
surements AND adjustments should only be per-
formed when the engine coolant temperature is less
than 60É C (140É F).
The 24±valve overhead system is a ªlow-mainte-
nanceº design. Routine adjustments are no longer
necessary, however, measurement should still take
place when trouble-shooting performance problems,
or upon completion of a repair that includes removal
and installation of the valve train components or
injectors.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471±B,
rotate crankshaft to align damper TDC mark to
12:00 o'clock position.
(a) If both number one cylinder rocker levers are
loose, continue to next step.
(b) If both number one clylinder rocker levers
are not loose, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees.
(4) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the following rocker arms:INTAKE
1±2±4 / EXHAUST 1±3±5. Measure the valve lash by
inserting a feeler gauge between the rocker arm
socket and crosshead (Fig. 32). Refer to VALVE
LASH LIMIT CHART for the correct specifications. If
the measurement fallswithinthe limits, adjust-
ment/resettingis notnecessary. If measurement
finds the lashoutsideof the limits, adjustment/re-
settingisrequired.
VALVE LASH LIMIT CHART
INTAKE EXHAUST
0.152 mm ( 0.006 in.)
MIN.0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
MIN.
0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
MAX.0.762 mm (0.030 in.)
MAX.
note:
If measured valve lash falls within these
specifications, no adjustment/reset is necessary.
Engine operation within these ranges has no adverse
affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or
level of engine noise.(5) If adjustment/resetting is required, loosen the
lock nut on rocker arms and turn the adjusting screw
until the desired lash is obtained:
²INTAKE0.254 mm (0.010 in.)
²EXHAUST0.508 mm (0.020 in.) Tighten the
lock nut to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) and re-check the valve
lash.
(6) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the
crankshaftone revolution (360É) to align the
damper TDC mark to the 12 o'clock position.
(7) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the remaining rocker arms:INTAKE
3±5±6 / EXHAUST 2±4±6. Use the same method as
above for determining whether adjustment is neces-
sary, and adjust those that are found to be outside of
the limits.
(8) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(9) Connect the battery negative cables.
REMOVAL - VALVE SPRINGS AND SEALS
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Disconnect rocker housing injector harness con-
nector. Remove all injector harness solenoid nuts.
(4) Remove injector(s) for cylinder(s) to be serviced.
Refer to Group 14 for injector removal.
(5) Remove the rocker housing.
(6) Remove the rocker arms and crossheads from
the cylinder(s) to be serviced. Mark each component
so they can be installed in their original position.
(7) Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471±B
(Fig. 33), rotate the engine to position the damper
Fig. 32 Measuring Valve Lash - Typical
1 - INTAKE
2 - FEELER GAUGE
3 - EXHAUST
9 - 308 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)
Page 1558 of 2895

mark in the 12 o'clock position.At this engine posi-
tion, cylinders #1 and #6 can be serviced.
(8) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(9) With the damper TDC mark in the 12 o'clock
position, add a paint mark anywhere on the gear
housing cover next to the crankshaft damper. Place
another mark on the vibration damper in alignment
with the mark you just made on the cover.
(10) Divide the crankshaft damper into three
equally sized segments as follows:
(a) Using a tape measure, measure the circum-
ference of the crankshaft damper and divide the
measurement by three (3).
(b) Measure that distance in a counter-clockwise
direction from the first balancer mark and place
another mark on the balancer.
(c) From the second damper mark, again mea-
sure in a counter-clockwise direction and place a
mark on the damper at the same distance you
measured when placing the second damper mark.
The damper should now be marked in three
equally spaced locations and the damper TDC
mark should be in the 12 o'clock position.
(d) Remove injectors, fuel lines, and high pres-
sure connectors for every cylinder that requires
repair.
(11) Compress the valve springs at cyls. #1 and #6
as follows:
(a) Remove bolts and injector hold-down clamp.
(b) Using miller special tool #9010, remove injec-
tor.
(c) Install the valve spring compressor mounting
base as shown in (Fig. 34).
(d) Install the top plate, washer, and nut. Using
a suitable wrench tighten the nut (clock-wise) (Fig.35) to compress the valve springs and remove the
collets.
(e) Rotate the compressor nut counter-clockwise
to relieve tension on springs. Remove spring com-
pressor.
(f) Remove and replace retainers, springs, and
seals as necessary.
(g)Do not rotate the engine until the
springs and retainers are re-installed.
(h) Install seals, springs and retainers. Install
spring compressor, compress valve springs and
install the collets.
(i) Release the spring tension and remove the
compressor. Verify that the collets are seated by
tapping on the valve stem with a plastic hammer.
(12) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the
engine until the next crankshaft damper paint mark
aligns with the mark you placed on the cover.In this
position, cylinders #2 and #5 can be serviced.
(13) Repeat the valve spring compressing proce-
dure previously performed and service the retainers,
springs, and seals as necessary.
(14) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the
engine until the next crankshaft damper paint mark
aligns with the mark you placed on the cover.In this
position, cylinders #3 and #4 can be serviced.
(15) Repeat the spring compressing procedure pre-
viously performed and service the retainers, springs,
and seals as necessary.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install rocker housing.
(2) Install fuel injectors and high pressure fuel
lines.
(3) Lubricate the valve tips and install the cross-
heads in their original locations.
Fig. 33 Rotating Engine with Barring Tool - Typical
1 - REAR FLANGE
2 - BARRING TOOLFig. 34 Spring Compressor Mounting BaseÐPart of
Tool 8319±A
1 - COMPRESSOR MOUNTING BASE
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 309
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)