tow DODGE TRUCK 1993 Service Owner's Manual

3
- 26
REAR SUSPENSION
AND
AXLE

DRIVE SIDE
OF RING
GEAR TEETH HEEL
TOE COAST SIDE
OF RING
GEAR TEETH TOE
HEEL DESIRABLE CONTACT PATTERN.
PATTERN SHOULD
BE
CENTERED
ON
THE
DRIVE SIDE
OF
TOOTH. PATTERN SHOULD
BE
CENTERED
ON

THE COAST SIDE
OF
TOOTH, BUT
MAY
BE SLIGHTLY TOWARD
THE TOE. THERE SHOULD ALWAYS BE SOME CLEARANCE BETWEEN
CONTACT PATTERN
AND TOP
OF

THE TOOTH.
RING GEAR BACKLASH CORRECT.

THINNER
PINION GEAR DEPTH SHIM REQUIRED.
RING GEAR BACKLASH CORRECT.

THICKER
PINION GEAR DEPTH SHIM REQUIRED.
PINION GEAR DEPTH SHIM
CORRECT.
DECREASE
RING
GEAR BACKLASH.
PINION GEAR DEPTH SHIM
CORRECT.
INCREASE
RING
GEAR BACKLASH.

Fig.
34
Gear
Teeth
Contact
Patterns
J9003-24

•

REAR SUSPENSION
AND
AXLE
3 - 41 (1) Insert Master Pinion Block into the differential
housing (Fig. 29);
• Model 60 use Tool D-120
• Model 70 use Tool D-137

Fig.
29
Pinion
Block
In Shaft
Bore

(2) Place Disc D-116-2 on Arbor D-115-3 and posi­
tion in the bearing cradles (Fig. 30). This is the cen­
terline of the ring gear/axle shaft.

Fig.
30
Disc
&
Arbor
In
Housing

(3) Place Pinion Height Block D-116-1 on top of
master pinion block tool and against arbor tool (Fig.

31).

(4) Firmly place Gauge Block D-115-2 and Dial In­
dicator D-106-5 on the lowest step of pinion height
block tool (Fig. 32). Zero the dial indicator pointer.
(5) Move the gauge block toward the arbor until
the indicator plunger contacts the arbor tool (Fig.
32).
Slide the gauge block across along the arbor
while observing indicator. Record the longest travel distance, whether inward (-) or outward
(
+
),
indi­
cated by the pointer.
The plunger travel distance indicated, plus or
minus the variance etched in the gear is the re­ quired thickness for the depth shims.
Fig.
31
Pinion
Height
Block
Against
Arbor

Fig.
32
Pinion
Gear Depth Measurement
(6) Measure the thickness of each depth shim with
a micrometer and combine the shims necessary for
total required pack thickness. Include oil slinger
thickness with the total shim pack thickness.
(7) Remove the measurement tools from the differ­
ential housing.
(8) Place the depth shims in the pinion gear rear
bearing bore. Install the bearing cup (Fig. 33);
• Model 60 use Installer
D-lll
and Handle C-4171
• Model 70 use Installer C-4204 and Handle C-4171 Ensure the cup is correctly seated. (9) Install the pinion front bearing cup with In­
staller C-4203 and Handle C-4171 (Fig. 34).
(10) Install the rear bearing (and slinger if used)
on the pinion gear with Installer C-3095-A until
completely seated (Fig. 35).
(11) Assemble preload shims onto pinion and in­
stall the pinion gear in housing.
(12) Install pinion front bearing, oil slinger, yoke,
washer and nut. Install the yoke with Installer C-3718 and Wrench C-3281 (Fig. 36).

•
REAR SUSPENSION AND AXLE 3 - 49

DRIVE SIDE OF RING
GEAR TEETH
HEE^^^^^^^TOE COAST SIDE
OF RING
GEAR TEETH
TOE^^^^^^^^^EL DESIRABLE CONTACT PATTERN.
PATTERN SHOULD BE CENTERED
ON THE DRIVE SIDE
OF
TOOTH. PATTERN SHOULD BE CENTERED
ON

THE COAST SIDE
OF
TOOTH, BUT MAY BE SLIGHTLY TOWARD
THE TOE. THERE SHOULD ALWAYS BE SOME CLEARANCE BETWEEN
CONTACT PATTERN
AND
TOP
OF

THE TOOTH.
RING GEAR BACKLASH CORRECT

THINNER
PINION GEAR DEPTH SHIM REQUIRED.
RING GEAR BACKLASH CORRECT

THICKER
PINION GEAR DEPTH SHIM REQUIRED.
PINION GEAR DEPTH SHIM
CORRECT
DECREASE
RING
GEAR BACKLASH.
PINION GEAR DEPTH SHIM
CORRECT.
INCREASE
RING
GEAR BACKLASH.

J9003-24
Fig. 59 Gear
Teeth
Contact
Patterns

3
- 52
REAR SUSPENSION
AND
AXLE

DISASSEMBLY

Service to the Trac-Lok differential requires the
use of Tool Set C-4487 (J-23781). Refer to differential
overhaul in the Model 60 section for differential case
removal and installation. (1) Clamp one axle shaft in a vise (with protective
jaws) with the splined end upward (Fig. 2).
USE

AXLE

SHAFT

AS
HOLDING
FIXTURE
(EXTEND
NO
MORE
THAN
2
3/4 IN.)
J8903-42

~
Fig. 2 Axle Shaft As
Holding
Fixture

(2)
Place shop towels under the differential gear to
avoid gear damage during removal of the ring gear (Fig. 3).
RING GEAR
BOLTS UPWARD

DIFFERENTIAL ON AXLE
SHAFT
(3) Position the differential case on the axle shaft
(Fig. 3). (4) Remove and discard the ring gear bolts. They
are not reusable.
(5) Remove the case from the fixture. Remove the
ring gear from the case by tapping it with brass drift and a hammer.

(6)
Position the case on the fixture.
(7) Remove the pinion gear mate shaft retaining
roll pin (Fig. 4).

DIFFERENTIAL
CASE
PINION

GEAR
MATE SHAFT

PUNCH

LOCKPIN

J9003-95
Fig. 4
Pinion
Gear Mate Shaft
Lock
Pin
Removal
(8) Remove the pinion gear mate shaft. Use a ham­
mer and a brass drift and tap the shaft out.
(9)
Install and lubricate Step Plate C-4487-1 (Fig.

5).

SPECIAL
TOOL

C-4487-1
DIFFERENTIAL

CASE
LOWER

SIDE

GEAR
J9203-4

J8903-43
Fig.
5
Step
Plate
Tool
Installation

Fig.
3
Differential
Case
On Shaft

5
- 32
BRAKES

•
CALIPER
OVERHAUL

CALIPER DISASSEMBLY (1) Drain
old
fluid
out of
caliper.
(2)
Pad
outboard shoe side
of
caliper interior with
a minimum
2.54 cm (1 in.)
thickness
of
shop towels (Fig.
12).
Towels will prevent piston damage when
piston comes
out of
bore.
(3) Remove caliper piston with short bursts
of
com­
pressed
air.
Apply
air
pressure through fluid inlet
port
of
caliper
(Fig. 12).

CAUTION:
Do
not
blow
the
piston
out of the
caliper.

This
practice
will
usually
result
in
severe piston
damage.
Use
only enough
air
pressure
to
ease
the
piston
out of the
bore.
In
addition,
do not
attempt
to

catch
the
piston
as it
leaves
the
caliper
bore. This
practice
will
result
in
personal
injury.
Fig.
12
Caliper Piston Removal
(4) Remove piston dust boot. Collapse boot with
screwdriver
or
punch
and
remove boot
(Fig. 13).

(5) Remove caliper piston seal with wood pencil
or

plastic tool
(Fig. 14). Do not use
metal tools
as
they could scratch piston bore.
CLEANING
AND
INSPECTION Clean
the
caliper components
(Fig. 15)
with Mopar
brake cleaner, fresh brake fluid,
or
denatured alcohol only.
Do not use
gasoline, kerosene, thinner,
or any
similar type
of
solvent. These products
can
leave
a

residue that
is
damaging
to
pistons
and
seals. Dry
the
caliper
and
piston with compressed
air or

allow them
to air dry. Do not use
rags
or
shop tow­

els.
Lint from such materials
can
adhere
to the
cali­
per
and
piston. Fig. 14 Removing Caliper Piston Seal
Inspect
the
caliper piston.
The
piston
is
made from
a phenolic resin (plastic material)
and
should
be

smooth
and
clean. Replace
the
piston
if
cracked
or
scored.
Do not
attempt
to
restore
a
scored piston
by

sanding
or
polishing.
The
piston must
be
replaced
if

damaged.
If
the
caliper piston must
be
replaced, install
the same
type
of
piston
in the
caliper.
Never
in­

terchange phenolic resin
and
steel
pistons.
The
piston seals,
seal
grooves,
caliper bore
and pis-

5
- 42
BRAKES

•
CALIPER
DISASSEMBLY.
(1) Drain old fluid out of caliper.
(2) Pad outboard shoe side of caliper interior with
a minimum 2.54 cm (1 in.) thickness of shop towels
(Fig. 13). Towels will prevent piston damage when it
comes out of bore.
(3) Remove caliper piston with short bursts of com­
pressed air. Apply air pressure through fluid inlet
port of caliper (Fig. 13).

CAUTION:
Do not
blow
the
piston
out of the
cali­

per.
This
practice
will
usually
result
in
severe
pis­

ton
damage.
Use only
enough
air
pressure
to
ease

the
piston
out of the
bore.
In
addition,
do not at­

tempt
to catch the
piston
as it
leaves
the
caliper
bore.
This
practice
will
result
in
personal
injury.
PISTON
J9105-66

Fig.
13 Caliper
Piston
Removal (4) Remove dust boot from caliper.
(5) Remove caliper piston seal from caliper bore
with small wood or plastic tool. Do not use metal tools to remove seal. Metal tools can scratch or score bore surface. (6) Remove bleed screw from caliper.

CLEANING
AND INSPECTION Clean the slide surfaces of the caliper with a wire
brush and emery cloth. Then clean the caliper and
piston with Mopar brake cleaner, fresh brake fluid, or denatured alcohol only. Do not use any other type
of solvent or cleaning agent.
Dry the caliper and piston with compressed air or
allow them to air dry. Do not use rags or towels to
dry the caliper and piston. Lint from such materials
can adhere to the piston and caliper. Inspect the caliper piston, piston bore and the seal
and boot grooves. Replace the piston if corroded, pit­
ted, scored, or worn. Do not attempt to restore the
piston surface by sanding. Replace the piston if nec­ essary.
Very light scratches or corrosion in the piston bore
can usually be cleaned up with a fiber brush, or by
polishing with a honing tool or crocus cloth. How­ ever, the caliper should be replaced if the bore is se­
verely corroded, scored, or if honing and polishing
would increase bore diameter by more than 0.050
mm (0.002 in.).
Dark brown or black stains on the piston are
caused by the piston seal and are a normal condition.
In addition, light discoloration of the piston bore is also normal. This discoloration is acceptable as long as the bore and piston surfaces are in good condition.
If the caliper piston must be replaced, install
the same type of piston in the caliper. Never in­
terchange phenolic resin and steel pistons. The piston seals, seal grooves, caliper bore and pis­
ton tolerances are different for resin and steel
pistons and calipers. Do not intermix these com­ ponents at any time.
The caliper bore can be lightly polished to remove
minor scratches or corrosion. However, polishing op­
erations should not remove any more than 0.012 mm (0.0005 in.) from the bore surface. Replace the caliper
if the bore is severely scored or corroded. Use crocus
cloth or 400 grit honing stones soaked in fresh brake
fluid to polish the bore surface. Be sure to flush and
clean the caliper thoroughly afterward. All residue generated by polishing must be removed to avoid po­
tential damage to the piston, seal and bore after as­ sembly. Inspect and clean the inboard shoe anti-rattle
spring, support key spring, retaining screw and cali­
per support key (Fig. 14). Replace these components if worn or damaged.
SHOE
AND
SHOE
AND
CALIPER
BLEEDER
SCREW

SEAL
BOOT
ANTI-RATTLE
SPRING
RN1059
Fig.
14 Caliper
Components

•

BRAKES
5 - 49 (2) Adjust brake shoes to drum with a brake
gauge. (3) Install and secure drum to wheel studs with
new retaining nuts/clips.
(4) Install rubber access plugs in support plate if
removed.
(5) Install wheel and tire.

BRAKE
SUPPORT PLATE REMOVAL
(1) Remove wheel and tire and brake drum.
(2) Remove axle shaft and retainer. Refer to Group
3 for procedures. (3) Remove primary brakeshoe for access to park­
ing brake cable if necessary. (4) Compress parking brake cable retainer tabs
with a hose clamp (Fig. 9). Then push retainer and cable through and out of support plate.
AIRCRAFT TYPE

HOSE
CLAMP
RB763

Fig.
9
Removing
Parking Brake Cable From
Support
Plate
(5) Disconnect brake line at wheel cylinder.
(6) Remove wheel cylinder and brakeshoes from
support plate.
(7) Remove bolts attaching support plate to axle
and remove support plate.

BRAKE
SUPPORT PLATE INSTALLATION
(1) If new support plate is being installed, apply
bead of Mopar silicone sealer around wheel cylinder mounting surface. Then transfer wheel cylinder to
new support plate. (2) Apply bead of Mopar silicone sealer around
axle mounting surface of support plate. (3) Install support plate on axle flange. Tighten at­
taching bolts to 47-68 N-m (35-50 ft. lbs.). (4) Install parking brake cable in support plate.
(5) Install axle shaft and retainer.
(6) Start brakeline in wheel cylinder and install
cylinder on support plate. Tighten brakeline fitting after cylinder installation. (7) Connect parking brake cable to lever on sec­
ondary shoe and install brakeshoes on support plate.
(8) Adjust brakeshoes to drum with brake gauge.
(9) Install brake drum and wheel and tire.
(10) Bleed brake system.

WHEEL CYLINDER REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove wheel and brake
drum. (2) Disconnect wheel cylinder brakeline.
(3) Remove brakeshoe return springs and move
shoes out of engagement with cylinder push rods. (4) Remove cylinder attaching bolts and remove
cylinder from support plate.

WHEEL
CYLINDER OVERHAUL
WHEEL
CYLINDER DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove push rods and boots (Fig. 10).
(2) Press pistons, cups and spring and expander
out of cylinder bore.
(3) Remove bleed screw.
SPRING

CYLINDER PISTON
CUP
CUP

EXPANDERS
BOOT
PISTON
'

BLEED
SCREW PUSH
ROD '
J9005-66

Fig.
10
Wheel
Cylinder
Components
CLEANING
AND
INSPECTION

Clean the cylinder and pistons with fresh brake
fluid or brake cleaner only. Do not use any other cleaning agents. Dry the cylinder and pistons with
compressed air. Do not use rags or shop towels to dry
the cylinder components. Lint from such materials
can adhere to the cylinder bores and pistons.
Inspect the cylinder bore. Light discoloration and
dark stains in the bore are normal and will not im­
pair cylinder operation. If desired, the bore can be lightly polished but only with crocus cloth. Replace
the cylinder if the bore is scored, pitted or heavily
corroded. Honing the bore to restore the surface is
not recommended.
Inspect the cylinder pistons. The piston surfaces
should be smooth and free of scratches, scoring and
corrosion. Replace the pistons if worn, scored, or cor­
roded. Do attempt to restore the surface by sanding or polishing.

5
- 50
BRAKES

• Discard
the old
piston cups
and the
spring
and ex­

pander. These parts
are not
reusable.
The
original
dust boots
may be
reused
but
only
if
they
are in
good condition.

ASSEMBLING
WHEEL
CYLINDER
(1) Lubricate wheel cylinder bore, pistons, piston
cups
and
spring
and
expander with clean brake fluid. (2) Install first piston
in
cylinder bore. Then
in­

stall
cup in
bore
and
against piston.
Be
sure
lip of

piston
cup is
facing inward (toward spring
and

expander)
and
flat side
is
against piston.
(3) Install spring
and
expanders followed
by re­
maining piston
cup and
piston.
(4) Install boots
on
each
end of
cylinder
and
insert
push rods
in
boots.

(5)
Install cylinder bleed screw.

WHEEL
CYLINDER INSTALLATION
(1) Apply bead
of
Mopar silicone sealer around cyl­
inder mounting surface
of
support plate. (2) Connect brake line
to
cylinder. Mount cylinder
on support plate
and
install cylinder attaching bolts. (3) Install wheel brake components.
(4) Install brake drum
and
wheel
and
bleed
brakes.

DRUM
BRAKES—TWELVE INCH

INDEX

page

Brake Drum
Installation
54

Brake Drum Removal
52

Brake Drum Service
54

Brake
Shoe
Installation
53

Brakeshoe
Removal
52

Cleaning
and
Inspection
52

GENERAL
INFORMATION
Twelve inch rear drum brakes
are
used
on D and

W 250/350 models
(Fig. 1). All
applications
are
dual
shoe,
internal expanding units with
a
self adjusting
mechanism.
A
single wheel cylinder
is
used
to ex-
page
General
Information
50

Support
Plate
Installation
55

Support
Plate
Removal
55

Wheel
Cylinder
Installation
55
Wheel
Cylinder
Overhaul
...................
54

Wheel
Cylinder
Removal
. 54

pand
the
dual brakeshoes.
The
lower ends
of the

brake shoes
are
connected
by a
star wheel adjuster screw which
is
part
of the
self adjusting mechanism
(Fig.
1).

5
- 54
BRAKES

• (11) Attach adjuster cable to adjuster lever. Be
sure cable is properly routed.
(12) Adjust brakeshoes to drum with brake gauge.

BRAKE
DRUM INSTALLATION
(1) Position drum on axle housing.
(2) Install bearing and inner nut. Adjust bearing
as described in Group 3. (3) Install locking washer and outer nut. Bend
locking washer to secure it. (4) Place new gasket on hub and install axle shaft,

cones,
lock washers and nuts. (5) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(6) Remove support stands and lower vehicle.

BRAKE
DRUM
SERVICE
BRAKE DRUM REFINISHING The brake drums can be resurfaced on a drum
lathe when necessary. Initial machining cuts should
be limited to 0.12 - 0.20 mm (0.005 - 0.008 in.) at a time as heavier feed rates can produce taper and sur­
face variation. Final finish cuts of 0.025 to 0.38 mm (0.001 to 0.0015 in) are recommended and will gen­
erally provide the best surface finish.
Be sure the drum is securely mounted in the lathe
before machining operations. A damper strap should always be used around the drum to reduce vibration
and avoid chatter marks.
BRAKE DRUM REFINISH LIMITS The maximum allowable diameter of the drum
braking surface is stamped or cast into the drum outer edge (Fig. 9). Generally, a drum can be ma­
chined to a maximum of 1.5 mm (0.060 in.) oversize.
Always replace the drum if machining would cause
drum diameter to exceed indicated size limit.
BRAKE DRUM RUNOUT Measure drum diameter and runout with an accu­
rate gauge. The most accurate method of measure­
ment involves mounting the drum in a brake lathe and checking variation and runout with a dial indi­
cator.
Variations in drum diameter should not exceed
0.076 mm (0.003 in). Drum runout should not exceed
0.20 mm (0.008 in.) out of round. Refinish the drum
if runout or variation exceed these values.

WHEEL
CYLINDER REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove brake drum and brakeshoes as de­
scribed in this section. (3) Remove anchor bolt and nut and remove
washer, spring, parking brake lever, adjuster cable, cam plate and anchor pin bushing. (4) Loosen brakeline at wheel cylinder.
(5) Remove wheel cylinder bolts. Fig. 9 Location Of Brake
Drum
Maximum Allowable
Diameter (6) Disconnect brakeline and remove wheel cylin­
der.

WHEEL
CYLINDER OVERHAUL

WHEEL CYLINDER DISASSEMBLY (1) Remove push rods and boots (Fig. 10).
(2) Press pistons, cups and spring and expander
from cylinder bore. (3) Remove bleed screw.

Fig.
10
Wheel
Cylinder
Components

CLEANING AND INSPECTION Clean the cylinder and pistons with clean brake
fluid or brake cleaner only. Do not use any other cleaning agents. Dry the cylinder and pistons with
compressed air. Do not use rags or shop towels to dry
the cylinder components. Lint from such materials can adhere to the cylinder bores and pistons.

•

BRAKES
5 - 55 Inspect the cylinder bore. Light discoloration and
dark stains in the bore are normal and will not im­
pair cylinder operation. If desired, the bore can be lightly polished but only with crocus cloth. Replace
the cylinder if the bore is scored, pitted or heavily corroded. Honing the bore to restore the surface is not recommended.
Inspect the cylinder pistons. The piston surfaces
should be smooth and free of scratches, scoring and
corrosion. Replace the pistons if worn, scored, or cor­
roded. Do attempt to restore the surface by sanding or polishing.
Discard the old piston cups and the spring and ex­
pander. These parts are not reusable. The original
dust boots may be reused but only if they are in good condition.

ASSEMBLING
WHEEL CYLINDER
(1) Lubricate wheel cylinder bore, pistons, piston
cups and spring and expander with ^clean brake fluid. (2) Install first piston in cylinder bore. Then in­
stall cup in bore and against piston. Be sure lip of
piston cup is facing inward (toward spring and
expander) and flat side is against piston.
(3) Install spring and expanders followed by re­
maining piston cup and piston.
(4) Install boots on each end of cylinder and insert
push rods in boots.

(5)
Install cylinder bleed screw.

WHEEL
CYLINDER INSTALLATION
(1) Start brakeline into cylinder.
(2) Position cylinder on support plate and install
cylinder attaching bolts. (3) Tighten brakeline fitting and cylinder attach­
ing bolts. (4) Install anchor pin bushing, cam plate, adjuster
cable, parking brake lever, spring washer and anchor
bolt and nut.
(5) Install brakeshoes and brake drum as described
in this section. (6) Install axle shaft.
(7) Install wheel and tire.
(8) Remove supports and lower vehicle.

SUPPORT
PLATE REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire.
(3) Remove axle shaft.
(4) Remove brake drum, brake shoes and wheel
cylinder as described in this section. (5) Remove bolts/nuts attaching support plate to
axle and remove support plate.

SUPPORT PLATE INSTALLATION
(1) Transfer wheel cylinder and parking brake le­
ver components to replacement support plate. (2) Position support plate on axle and install at­
taching bolts/nuts. (3) Lubricate shoe contact surfaces of support plate
with Mopar multi-purpose, or high temperature bear­ ing grease. (4) Install brakeshoes. Adjust shoes to drum with
brake gauge. (5) Install brake drum.
(6) Install axle shaft.
(7) Install wheel and tire.
(8) Remove supports and lower vehicle.