battery replacement FIAT TEMPRA 1988 Service And Repair Manual

Thanks
are due to the excellent, knowledgeable and helpful staff at FIAT main dealers, Ryauto of Amblecote, in the West
Midlands for supplying vehicles and for their assistance with this chapter. In particular, thanks are due to the efficient Maurice
Hough, Service Manager, the experienced Foreman, Tony Morris, and young demon mechanic, Matthew Worsfold.
Some of the suggested inspection/replacement intervals may not correspond to those shown in the original handbook. The suggested
schedule, based on FIAT'S recommendations, takes into account the age of the vehicle and the annual MoT test in the UK.
In practice, because of the split between (mainly) 12 month/9,000 mile and 18 month/13,500 mile intervals, you will need to
service your Tipo or Tempra at most, if not every, 6 month interval.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Each service should be carried out at EITHER the recommended mileage OR the recommended time
interval, whichever comes first.
SERVICE INTERVAL CHART
SERVICE INTERVALS: KEY
A
-
Every week, or before every long journey. F
-
Every 3 years or 27,000 miles.
B
-
Every 6 months, or 4,500 miles. G
-
Every 4 years or 36,000 miles.
C - Every 12 months, or 9,000 miles. H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles. D - Every 18 months , or 13,500 miles.
H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles.
E
-
Every 2 years or 18,000 miles J
-
Every 72,000 miles.
PART A: REGULAR CHECKS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 1. Engine oil
-
check level A
Job 2. Cooling system
-
check level A
Job 3. Brake/clutch fluid
-
check level A
Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level A
Job 5. Screen washer fluid
-
check level A
Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and
condition (road wheels) A
Job 7. Check lights/change bulbs A
PART B: THE ENGINE AND
COOLING SYSTEM
Job 8
-
Petrol. Change engine oil and filter C
Job 8
-
Diesel. Change engine oil and filter B
Job 9. Check crankcase ventilation H
Job 10. Check/adjust valve clearances D
Job 11. Check camshaft timing belt F
Job 12. Change camshaft timing belt I
Job 13. Check cooling system C
Job 14. Change engine coolant E
PART C: TRANSMISSION
Job 15. Check manual gearbox oil level C
Job 16. Change manual gearbox oil J
Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level C
Job 18. Change auto, transmission
fluid and filter F
Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters C
Job 20. Check/adjust clutch C
Job 21. Check auto, transmission selector
cable E
PART D: IGNITION AND ELECTRICS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 22. Check/clean/gap spark plugs B
Job 23. Change spark plugs D
Job 24. Check/clean HT leads and
distributor cap C
Job 25. Check ignition timing C
Job 26. Check/adjust drive belt/s D
Job 27. Check electric fan operation C
Job 28. Run diagnostic ignition/injection test D
PART E: FUEL AND EXHAUST
Job 29. Check fuel pipes for leaks C
Job 30. Change petrol air filter D
Job 31. Change diesel air filter C
Job 32. Change petrol fuel filter F
Job 33. Drain diesel fuel filter B
Job 34. Change diesel fuel filter C
Job 35. Check/adjust petrol engine idle
and emissions C
Job 36. Check emission/evaporative/EGR systems F
Job 37. Check Lambda sensor F
Job 38. Check/adjust diesel idle speed C
Job 39. Check/adjust diesel injection timing E
Job 40. Check inlet and exhaust manifold fixings D
Job 41. Check exhaust system C
PART F: STEERING AND
SUSPENSION
Job 42. Check front wheel bearings C
Job 43. Check front suspension C
Job 44. Check steering column, joints and rack C
Job 45. Check power steering fluid C
Job 46. Check rear wheel bearings C
Job 47. Check rear suspension C
Job 48. Check wheel bolts for tightness C

IMPORTANT NOTE: Take care not to allow any dirt or grit
to get into the gearbox.
• Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters.
45
B INSIDE INFORMATION: Make sure you have a 10 mm
Allen key that will fit, before you start. There's very little
room between gearbox and subframe. B
Q Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level.

The
automatic transmission fluid level should be checked with

the
car on level ground and the engine at normal running
temperature
-
the car should have been driven for about 4
miles. The level is checked by means of a dipstick next to the
battery.
IMPORTANT NOTE: i) It is especially important that the
fluid is at the correct level. If the system needs regular
topping up because of leaks, fix them as rapidly as
possible or have your FIAT dealer check the system,
ii) Wipe the dipstick only with a lint-free rag to avoid
clogging up transmission valves. Keep dirt out!
18B. The filter is
secured by one
central screw.
Undo this and pull
the filter down,
detaching its upper
fluid pipe in the
process. Remove
the filter, discard it
and fit the
replacement. Refit
the sump, using a
new gasket and
non-setting gasket
sealer.
Replace the drain plug and fill the gearbox through the
dipstick tube. {See Job
17.)

19A. Grasp and turn the
inner drive-shaft and
gaiters, checking for signs
of gaiter splitting or
damage that could allow
grease out or
-
worse still

-
water in. Ensure the
gaiter clips are secure.
Q INSIDE INFOR-
MATION: Inners tend to
leak, putting an oil
stain on the shaft, as
here. You can buy a
FIAT repair kit, with
bearing and
replacement gaiter, to
repair the leak. This
involves removing the
drive shaft
-
see
Chapter 6, Repairs
and Replacements. B
19B. Check the outer
gaiter as well. This moves
over a greater range and
is more prone to damage
and splits.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Change a split, or
damaged gaiter as soon
as possible
-
preferably
before using the car
again.
If
necessary,
fresh Tutela CVT should be poured in through

the
dipstick tube, using a funnel in the tube or by using ATF

from
a dispenser with a small spout. You may have to leave

the fresh
oil to clear the tube before seeing a clear dipstick
reading.
G Job 18. Replace auto, transmission fluid and
filter.

As well as
Tutela CVT fluid, you will need a new, sump
gasket
and
a new gearbox oil filter, from your FIAT dealer. The
filter
should
be changed every time the oil is replaced.

18A.
Always drain the

fluid when
the trans-
mission
is
warm, such as

after a
run. Raise the

front
of the car on

ramps,
so the fluid

drains well
from the

drain
hole (C) at the rear
under-side of the 'box.

Remove
the drain plug

with an
Allen key or hexagonal socket adaptor, and allow the

fluid to
drain into a container beneath the transmission
-
allow

ten
minutes for complete drainage.
Underneath the car, remove the 13 transmission sump bolts.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: The sump is easily distorted,

so,
when refitting, tighten all bolts progressively and
evenly to the recommended torque
-
see Chapter 3,
Facts and Figures. B

17.
Check the level with the
engine idling and the gear
selector in the 'P' (PARK)
position. Pull out the dipstick

(A),
wipe it clean with paper
kitchen towel, re-insert it and
check the level. The upper

and
lower marks on the dipstick represent minimum and
maximum acceptable fluid levels.

• Job 20. Check/adjust clutch. CABLE OPERATED CLUTCH
The clutch mechanism is self-adjusting, although the cable
linkage can stretch over a period of time and may need
adjustment. The adjuster is on top of the gearbox, reached
from inside the engine bay.
20C. 'Work' the clutch pedal
(X) a few times, pull back the
carpet from under the pedal,
then measure the full travel of
the pedal, which should be
between 140 and 150 mm.

/
\
/ \
/ u / Xl
1 ' ' / . V y 2
Jdi V 1 \
X. 1 —

20C
HYDRAULIC CLUTCH
20B. Check the
pipework and slave
cylinder, on the
gearbox casing,
from beneath the
20D. If not, note that after
slackening the locknut, turning
the adjusting nut inwards
along the threaded rod
(arrowed) will increase pedal
travel. Tighten the lock-nut
against the inner nut after
adjustment.
• Job 21. Check auto, transmission selector cable.
It should only be possible to start the engine when the gear
selector is in the 'P' or 'N' position. Place it in each of the
other positions and try to start the car. If it starts, the fault
must be put right! Also check that, with the ignition off and
the selector lever in 'D' (Drive), 'L' (Low), 'R' (Reverse) or 'N'
(Neutral), the timed warning buzzer should sound. If it
doesn't, the selector cable adjustment may be faulty.
See Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements, PART B:
TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH, Job 8 for adjustment details.
PART D: IGNITION AND ELECTRICS
See FACT FILE: DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY on page 36
SAFETY FIRST!
• You may minimise the risk of shock when the engine is running by wearing thick rubber gloves and by NEVER
working on the system in damp weather or when standing on damp ground. Read Chapter 1, Safety First! before
carrying out any work on the ignition system.
• ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEMS INVOLVE VERY HIGH VOLTAGES! All manufacturers recommend that only trained
personnel should go near the high-tension circuit (coil, distributor and HT wiring) and it is ESSENTIAL that anyone
wearing a medical pacemaker device does not go near the ignition system.
• Stroboscopic timing requires the engine to be running
-
take great care that parts of the timing light or parts of
you don't get caught up in moving components!
• Don't have loose clothing or hair.
46
FACT FILE: CABLE OR HYDRAULIC
CLUTCH?
• Most earlier Tipos and Tempras had a
cable-operated clutch, while later ones
are hydraulic.
• 2 OA. You
can easily tell
which system
your car is
fitted with.
The hydraulic
pipe (if fitted)
runs almost
horizontally,
across the
back of the engine bay.
• There is no separate clutch fluid reservoir
-
it shares
the brake fluid reservoir.
• Clutch cables (when fitted) are inclined to break
without warning.
• It pays to keep the operating mechanism well lubri-
cated and renew the cable every few years.
car. If the pipe
appears cracked,
replace it. If the
slave cylinder
oozes fluid, replace
it, in both cases bleeding the system. See Chapter
6,
Repairs
and Replacements.

49H. ...and push out the nylon bush (arrowed). Reassemble
on the new pad and reattach the wire.
IMPORTANT NOTE: After fitting the pads, apply the
brakes firmly several times to adjust them.
• Job 50. Check rear brakes.
SAFETY FIRST!
Read SAFETY FIRST at the start of Job 49 before
proceeding!
GENERAL. The majority of Tipo/Tempra models are fitted with
rear drum-type rear brakes, but models with ABS anti-lock
braking have a disc-and-caliper arrangement instead.
Slacken the wheel bolts, raise the wheel, remove it and
support the car with an axle stand. Make sure that the wheels
remaining on the ground are chocked in both directions and
that the handbrake is off.
DRUM REAR BRAKES
If the drum
sticks,
try:
• screwing a pair of
bolts

into the two threaded
holes in the drum. Evenly
tightening the bolts will force the drum off the
shoes.

• tapping carefully around the drum with a hide
mallet to help loosen it.
s Vn order to fit new pads,
r> - the caliper piston must be
pushed back into the bore.
• Use an old battery hydrometer to draw about half
of the fluid from the master cylinder.
• Push the piston back into the caliper, using a G-
clamp.
• Keep an eye on the master cylinder so that it
doesn't overflow as fluid is pushed back up the pipe.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Be very sparing or grease could
migrate to the friction linings!
WEAR SENSORS I I There are certain essential checks you
should carry out for yourself, with brake
pads removed:
• Look for any obvious grooves worn into the disc.
Slight undulations are acceptable, but anything worse
and the disc should be replaced.
• Look and feel for any wear-ridge on the outer edges
of the disc. The depth will give an indication of wear.
• Check for corrosion of the disc surface. If any is
found, the brake caliper is probably faulty, and needs
checking.
• If any surface flaking is found on either side of the
disc, replace them both.
• If you are not certain whether any wear is acceptable,
ask your specialist or FIAT dealer to check.
FACT FILE: BRAKE DISC WEAR
SYMPTOMS
Before reassembling the brake, check the condition of the
brake caliper. Have an assistant VERY SLOWLY AND GENTLY
apply pressure to the brake pedal while you watch the piston
(see illustration 49B, part
8),
which should move outwards. If
it doesn't easily move, it is seized and the caliper should be
replaced. DO NOT allow the piston to project more than 10
mm or it may be forced from the caliper
-
use a G-clamp as an
'end stop'.
49F. Before
fitting the pads,
put a light smear
of brake grease
(NOT ordinary
grease) on the
pads' metal
backplates at the
points shown.
49G. If these are fitted, the contact has to be transferred from
the old backing plate to the new. Pull off the wire, push out
the brass pin...
49E. Check inside
the caliper housing
for signs of
corrosion. If any is
found, or the seal is
damaged, the caliper
should be exchanged
for a new or
overhauled unit from
your FIAT dealership.
Examine the piston's protective gaiter (see illustration 49B,
part 9) for splitting and fluid leaks. This one is in poor
condition and the caliper requires immediate replacement.

PART A: ENGINE
PART A: Contents
Job 1. Petrol engine. Timing belt
-
replacement and Job 12. Petrol engine. Mountings
-
replacement.
adjustment. Job 13. Diesel engine. Timing belt
-
replacement and
Job 2. Petrol engine. Cylinder head
-
removal. adjustment. •
Job 3. Petrol engine. Cylinder head and camshaft housing -Job 14. Diesel engine. Cylinder head
-
removal.
refitting. Job 15. Diesel engine. Cylinder head
-
refitting.
Job
4.
Petrol engine. Cylinder head
-
dismantling and Job 16. Diesel engine. Cylinder head
-
overhaul.
overhauling. Job 17. Diesel engine. Valve clearances
-
adjustment.
Job 5. Petrol engine
-
dismantling. Job 18. Diesel engine
-
removal.
Job
6.
Petrol engine
-
checking and reassembly. Job 19. Diesel engine
-
refitting.
Job
7.
Petrol engine. Valve clearances
-
adjustment. Job 20. Diesel engine. Mountings
-
replacement.
Job 8. Petrol engine/transmission
-
removal. Job 21. Diesel engine/transmission (removed from car)
-

Job
9.
Petrol engine/transmission
-
refitting. separation.
Job 10. Petrol engine/transmission (removed from car)
-
Job 22. Diesel engine/transmission (removed from car)
-

separation. reconnection.
Job 11. Petrol engine/transmission (removed from car)
-
Job 23. Diesel engine
-
dismantling.
reconnection. Job 24. Diesel engine
-
reassembly.
Job 1. Petrol engine. Timing belt
- replacement and adjustment.
Mi*^^ Zc+sc, / • The crankshaft pulley nut
n^^ will be difficult to turn.
• If the engine is in the car,
engage a gear (or 'Park' in the case of an automatic)
and have an assistant hold the footbrake down very
firmly. This will stop the engine from turning.
• Alternatively, with the starter motor removed, you
can have a helper prevent the flywheel ring gear from
turning with a large screwdriver.
• Step 4: Before removing the belt, put the pulley nut back
onto the crankshaft, take the car out of gear (if the engine is
still in the car) and remove the spark plugs. You can now turn
the engine in a clockwise direction using the refitted crank
pulley nut
-
without the pulley, of course!
• Step 5A: With
the timing belt still in
place, turn the engine
so that the timing
mark on the camshaft
sprocket lines up with
the one on the front
cover. On some
engines, the front
cover looks like this...
• Step 5B:
...while on the
majority, it looks
like this. The top
part of the cover
backplate slides
out so that the
plastic pip is level
with the camshaft
sprocket. Turn
the sprocket so that the timing mark on the sprocket lines up
with this pip.
IMPORTANT NOTE: It is false economy to refit a used
timing belt. If the belt breaks, it will cause complete
engine failure so always fit a new one.
• Step 1:
Disconnect the battery

and
remove the
alternator drivebelt as
described in PART C:

COOLING
SYSTEM
0 Step 2: Take off

the timing
belt cover.

This is held
by a total

of
four bolts (arrowed).
• Step 3: Take off

the
crankshaft pulley

nut and
remove the
pulley.

Job 17. Diesel engine.
Valve clearances - adjustment.
D INSIDE INFORMATION! After carrying out Job 16,
valve clearance measurement and adjustment is now
needed. Both measurement and shim replacement are
carried out in the same manner as for the petrol engine

(.Job
7), so refer to this and also to Chapter 3, Facts
and Figures for specifications. B
Job 18. Diesel engine - removal.
moving parts with engine oil during assembly. See Chapter 3,

Facts
and Figures for specified tightening torques.
luei suppiy diiu leium pipe;>
at the injection pump...
• Step 9: ...and the stop
control supply cable. Also
disconnect the cable from
the injection pump hydraulic
advance control sensor and
the alternator cables.
• Step 10:
Disconnect the oil
feed and return
pipes between the
thermostatic valve
and the radiator
and tie clear.

I

This should
be read in connection with Job 8
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! • The turbo and non-turbo
diesel engines are essentially similar.
• The under-bonnet scene is in some ways different
because of the extra plumbing required when a turbo is
fitted.
• Locations and shapes of various items may differ, or
not exist at all on the non-turbo unit.
• As most complexity is found with the turbo engine,

I

the
following illustrations are mainly of this version.
• The power units are removed from under the car,
therefore make sure you can raise the car enough to
achieve this. Support the car firmly and safely on axle
stands. D
Q Step 1: Disconnect the negative lead from the battery

and drain
the cooling system. Q Step 2: Remove the bonnet lid.
• Step 3: Drain the transmission oil.
Q Step 4: Disconnect and remove all pipes and hoses.
Q Step 5: Undo all electrical connection and label them

with masking
tape. Write matching numbers on each male

and female
connection to assist reconnection, later.
Q Step 6: Disconnect the power steering pump pipes

(where fitted),
catching any spilt fluid and tie them clear. See

Job 14.

• Step 7: Part the
connection for the

electronic
speedometer
magnetic impulse

generator
(when fitted).
Q Step 11: Disconnect the clutch cable, adjacent earth lead
and reversing light switch other cable connection from the top
of the gearbox.
• Step 12: Disconnect the leads from the oil pressure
warning light from the oil filter mounting, and the oil level
warning light switch.
• Step 13: From under the car, remove the exhaust front
section from the manifold and from its support brackets.
O Step 14: Remove the front road wheels and the access
panel from each wheel housing.
• Step 15: Remove the brake pad wear sensor cables,
when fitted.
Q Step 16A: On the turbo version, undo the six 'Allen'
screws securing the inboard end of each drive-shaft. Undo the
two pinch bolts that fix each stub axle to the suspension struts
and pull them clear. Ease the drive-shafts clear of the trans-
mission casing

-
take care
not to
damage the
protective
boots.

extend their life by fitting new seals, when necessary. Note that
you will need to use internal circlip pliers to remove the circlip
from the pushrod on the master cylinder in order to dismantle it.
When you need to bleed the clutch hydraulic system, follow
the procedure described for brake bleeding in PART H:
BRAKES, Job 17. Because the circuit is far simpler, the
procedure itself is likely to be both simpler and quicker to carry
out. Note that the bleed screw (f) is normally covered by a cap
(e) which must be removed before the bleed screw can be
slackened.
PART C: COOLING SYSTEM
PART C: Contents - ' B SI s |§w ^ - -
-
silt Job 1: Component positions. Job 4. Thermostat
-
replacement.
Job 2. Radiator and cooling fan
-
replacement. Job 5. Coolant pump
-
replacement.
Job 3. Thermostatic switch
-
testing and replacing.
Job 1. Component positions.
1 - bottom hose - radiator to pump 2 - top, hose - radiator to thermostat 3 - radiator
4 - thermostat 5
-
water pump 6 - thermostatic switch 7 - cooling fan
Type 1
1 - expansion tank 2 - hose, tank to pump 3 - bottom hose, radiator to thermostat 4 - top hose, thermostat to radiator 5 - hose, radiator to expansion tank
6 - thermostat/housing assembly 7 - delivery pipe, thermostat to pump 8
-
water pump 9 - cooling fan 10
-
thermostatic switch 11 - radiator core Type 2
Type 2: ...and these the diesel engine's components. Type 1: These are the components of the petrol engine
cooling system...
Job 2. Radiator and cooling fan -
replacement.
• Step 1: Unplug the electrical connections from the fan
motor and thermostatic switch.
• Step 2: Drain the cooling system and disconnect all
hoses from the radiator.
Q Step 3: Undo the mounting bolts and remove the
radiator/fan assembly from the car.
• Step 4: Undo the fan
mounting fixing bolts and
remove the complete
assembly from the radiator.
Also see illustration Type 1
(petrol), or Type 2
(diesel).
Q Step 5: Refit in reverse
order.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! The fan assembly can be
removed from the car without disturbing the radiator if
required. New fan units are supplied by FIAT complete
with the mounting bracket, ready to bolt on. D
Job 3. Thermostatic switch -
testing and replacing.
• Step 1: The thermostatic switch which controls the fan is
located in the radiator header tank. See illustration Type
1,

part 6 (petrol), or Type 2, part
10
(diesel) .
• Step 2: To remove, drain the cooling system, disconnect
the switch and unscrew it from the radiator.
• Step 3: H INSIDE INFORMATION! Test the switch
using a test bulb and two leads. Connect one to a
battery terminal and the other to one of the switch
terminals. Now connect a wire between the remaining
switch and battery terminal. (9

Job 2. Ignition coil - replacement.
ALL 1.4 MODELS AND 1.6 MODELS UP TO 1993
Q Step 1: Locate the coil (2) next to
the battery.
IMPORTANT NOTE: On 1.6 models
from 1993 with SPI Monomotronic
fuel injection, the high tension coil
is integral with the distributor.
• Step 2: Make sure the ignition is
switched off and disconnect all LT (the
smaller, low tension) wires from the
coil, making note of their locations for
refitting.
• Step 3: Unplug the HT (the
thicker, high tension) lead to the
distributor at the coil end. Undo the
mountings and remove the coil.
• Step 4: Mount the new coil, remake all connections
correctly and firmly.
Job 3. Distributor - removal and
refitting (1.4 litre engine).
FACT FILE: 1.4. LITRE ENGINE
DISTRIBUTOR
This system is of the BREAKERLESS
INDUCTIVE DISCHARGE type (2nd gener-
ation) and employs a distributor looking
much like those used on older cars, still
having an internal centrifugal advance mechanism, a vacuum
advance mechanism (3),
but NO contact breaker
points - an electronic
control module (2)
instead. This means that
once set, the timing
cannot alter through
points gap fluctuation.
Maintenance is also
reduced to a minimum,
the main requirements
being to keep the unit
clean and dry.
l_) Step 1: Locate the distributor (see illustration Job1-2A,
part a) which is mounted on the forward facing side of the
engine block, close to the timing belt cover.
I—] Step 2: Remove the distributor cap and leads.
Q Step 3: Disconnect the (thinner) low tension lead, undo
the distributor base clamp and withdraw the distributor.
Q Step 4: Turn
the engine until
the crankshaft
pulley timing
mark is aligned
with the '0' (TDC)
mark on the
timing belt cover
(a) and the marks
seen through the
timing belt
window (b), also
line up.
• Step S: If the
marks

seen through the window
do not align
-
turn the
engine another complete revolution and they will.
• Step 6: Refit the distributor with the centre of the rotor
contact pointing 180 degrees away from (in other words,
exactly opposite) the reference mark on the distributor dust
cover.
Q Step 7: Refit the distributor cap and remake all connec-
tions. Leave the vacuum pipe disconnected but plug the end
of the pipe.
Q Step 8: Refit the base clamp but leave just loose enough
to allow the distributor to turn.
Q Step 9: Connect a stroboscopic timing light and start the
engine. Run it at between 750 and 850 rpm.
• Step 10:
Rotate the
distributor body
the required
amount in either
direction to align
the pulley timing
mark with the 10
degree BTDC
mark on the
timing belt cover
• Step 11: Remove the timing light, unplug and reconnect
the vacuum pipe.
Job 4. Distributor - removal and
refitting (1.6 litre engine).
FACT FILE: 1.6 LITRE ENGINE
DISTRIBUTOR
The DIGIPLEX 2 ALL ELECTRONIC (2nd
generation) IGNITION system used on the
1.6 litre engine is of advanced design and
requires no maintenance. Because there is no
mechanical wear, the advance curves remain constant during
the life of the unit. Inaccuracies due to wear or vibration are
eliminated. The high spark intensity is constant, even with a
low battery when starting, and at high RPM.
and lock the distributor base clamp.

PART E: ELECTRICAL ARID INSTRUMENTS
PART E: Contents
Job 1. Alternator
-
removal and refitting. Job 10. Rear light cluster
-
replacement.
Job 2. Starter motor
-
removal and refitting. Job 11. Side repeater indicators
-
replacement.
Job 3. Instrument panel
-
removal and refitting. Job 12. Number plate light
-
replacement.
Job 4. Speedometer cable
-
replacement. Job 13. Interior/courtesy light
-
removal and refitting.
Job 5. Windscreen wiper motor
-
replacement. Job 14. Fuel gauge sender unit
-
removal and refitting.
Job 6. Hatchback wiper motor
-
replacement. Job 15. Central locking
-
replacement of components.
Job 7. Windscreen washer pump
-
replacement. Job 16. Electric windows
-
replacement of components.
Job 8. Radio aerial
-
replacement. Job 17. Diesel engines. Glow plugs
-
checking and
Job 9. Headlight cluster
-
replacement. replacement.
Job 1. Alternator - removal
and refitting.
Job 3. Instrument panel -
removal and refitting.
• Step 1: Disconnect the battery earth lead.
Q Step 2: Disconnect all the wires from the back of the
alternator
-
the main output wire is released by undoing its
securing nut. Slacken the bolt securing the inboard end of the
adjustment bar, undo and remove the bolt from the alternator
end of the bar. Slacken the drivebelt and remove it.
Q Step 3: On manual steering cars, unbolt and remove the
adjuster bracket from the cylinder block.
Q Step 4: Release the securing buttons and remove the
engine splash shield on power steering cars.
Q Step 5: Undo the nut from the long through bolt and
note the position of the washers. Support the alternator and
remove the bolt, then withdraw the alternator from the car.
Q Step 6: Refit in reverse order and make sure your
electrical connections are sound. Adjust the drivebelt tension.
See Chapter 5, Servicing Your Car
• Step 1: Disconnect
terminal.
• Step 2: Undo the
screws (arrowed) and
remove the speaker
cover (1).
Job 2. Starter motor - removal
and refitting.
• Step 1: Disconnect the battery earth lead.
• Step 2:
Undo and remove
all the electrical
connections (a)
from the starter
(b) and starter
solenoid (c).
Q Step 4: Refit in reverse order, ensuring that all connec-
tions are sound.
Q Step 5: Raise the instrument panel enough to unplug
the connectors from the rear. Disconnect the speedometer
drive (if non-electronic type) and remove the instrument
panel from the car.
Q Step 6: Refit in the reverse order and be sure that all
connections are properly made.
Job 4. Speedometer cable
replacement.
• Step 1: H INSIDE INFORMATION! The cable comes in
two parts, joined in the middle by a connector (a). Q
• Step 2: Follow Job 3, Steps 1 to 3 Then, lift the
instrument panel
sufficiently so that
you can gain
access to the
cable.
^Jj
Job
4-1

the battery at the negative (earth)
• Step 3: Undo the
exposed screws that
secure the
instrument panel
(arrowed).
• Step 4: Slide
off the screw
cover
(2)
from
the other end of
the instrument
panel and
remove the two
screws found beneath it.
• Step 3:
Undo the three mounting bolts and the wiring harness bracket
from the top bolt and withdraw the starter.

Job 6. Hatchback wiper motor -
replacement.
• Step 3: Disconnect the drive cable from the back of
speedometer.
• Step 4: From under the bonnet, uncouple the two cable

halves
from the centre connector and withdraw the
speedometer section through the bulkhead.
Q Step 5: Disconnect the lower end of the cable from the
gearbox drive and remove it.
G Step 6: Follow the reverse procedure to refit the cable,

being
careful to run the cable as straight as possible, avoiding
sharp bends.
Job 5. Windscreen wiper motor -
replacement.
Q Step 1: Disconnect the battery negative (earth) terminal.
Q Step 2: Note the position of the wiper blades on the
screen. Remove the two windscreen wiper arms and then the

grille
cover.
Q Step 3: Unplug the electrical connector and undo the
four mounting screws (arrowed). Remove the complete
assembly.
Q Step 4: Uncouple the linkage rods from the motor
(arrowed).
Q Step 5: Remove the motor by undoing the three
mounting bolts.
Q Step 6: Note the location of
-
and wiring for
-
these
components.
Q Step 7: Refitting is the reverse of removal, but take care

to position
the wiper arms as you found them after first

making
sure the motor is 'parked'.
IMPORTANT NOTE: For a view of the headlight wiper
motor (where fitted) refer to Job 7. Step 3.
PART A: TIPO MODELS
• Step A1: This
is a view of the
components for
the Tipo rear
wiper.
• Step A2:
Undo the securing
nut and remove
the wiper arm.
• Step A3: Open the tailgate and pull the weather strip
away from the top of the interior trim panel.
• Step A4: Remove the five screws holding the trim in
place
-
three of these also secure the lock.
Q Step A5: Carefully lever out the trim fixing clips freeing
the trim. Unplug the wiring to the tailgate lock motor (if fitted)
and remove the lock/trim panel assembly.
• Step A6: Unplug the wires from the wiper motor, undo
the three screws holding the motor in place and remove the
motor assembly.
• Step A7: Check that the seal in the tailgate wiper shaft
hole is in good condition and then start refitting in reverse
order. Make sure the wiper motor is 'parked' before fitting the
arm and blade.
PART B: TEMPRA MODELS
• Step B1: This shows the layout of the Tempra rear wiper.
Q Step B2: Disconnect the
battery earth lead. Undo the
securing nut and remove the
wiper arm.
Q Step B3: Remove the
motor cover shield.
Q Step B4: Disconnect the
wiring plug and washer
tubing.
• Step B5: From outside,
undo and remove the wiper
shaft nut and retrieve the spacer/seal.