torque FIAT UNO 1983 Service Workshop Manual

32Fit the hot air collector plate for the air
cleaner (photo).
33Refer to Section 10 and fit the distributor.
34Bolt on the timing belt cover.
35Fit the camshaft cover, using a new
gasket unless the original one is in perfect
condition.
Engine/transmission -
reconnection and refitting#
36Locate the engine in an upright position
on wooden blocks to allow for the greater
depth of the transmission flywheel housing
when it is joined to the engine.
37Make sure that the clutch driven plate has
been centralised, offer the transmission to the
engine and locate the flywheel housing on the
single stud and dowels.
38Tighten the connecting bolts to specifiedtorque, having located the lifting eye (photo).
39Bolt on the starter motor.
40Refit the cover plate to the flywheel
housing, but do not insert the lower bolts at
this stage as they retain the support bracket
for the gearchange rod.
41The engine and transmission are now
ready for refitting. The operations are a direct
reversal of the operations described earlier,
but observe the following points.
42Have the engine/transmission perfectly
horizontal and suspended on the hoist.
43Lower it into position very slowly until it is
possible to engage the driveshaft inboard
joints with the transmission.
44Continue lowering until the driveshafts
can be fully engaged and the mountings
reconnected. Remove the hoist.
45Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specifiedtorque. Note the method shown for
connecting the gearchange rod ball socket
using pliers (photo).
46Refill the engine with oil and coolant and
replenish the transmission oil.
Initial start-up after major
overhaul
47Refer to Chapter 1, Section 45.
6 Engine-
1301 cc Turbo ie
PART A: GENERAL
Description
1This engine is similar in design to the
1301 cc engine described in Chapter 1, but
the fuel and ignition systems are different, and
a turbocharger, oil cooler and intercooler are
fitted.
2Many dimensions and tolerances have
been altered for this engine, and reference
should be made to the Specifications at the
beginning of this Supplement.
3Operations which differ from those
described in Chapter 1 are given in the
following sub-Sections.
Lubrication system - description
4The lubrication system differs from the
non-Turbo 1301 cc engine in the following
respects.
5An oil cooler is fitted, which comprises a
matrix with inlet and outlet hoses connected
to the oil filter cartridge mounting base.
6A thermostatic control switch is fitted,
which diverts the oil flow through the matrix
only at oil temperatures above 84ºC (183ºF).
Note that a faulty switch will require renewal
of the complete oil filter mounting base.
7Special oil spray nozzles are located in the
crankcase main bearing webs, to cool the
underside of the pistons.
8The ball-type valves in the nozzles open
when the engine oil pressure reaches 1.2 bars
(17.4 lbf/in
2).
9An oil pressure sender unit is screwed into
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•33
5D.45 Connecting ball socket type
gearchange rod5D.38 Lifting eye on flywheel housing
flange5D.32 Air cleaner hot air collector plate
Fig. 13.10 Cutaway view of the 1301 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 6A)
13

the crankcase to operate the oil pressure
gauge. In addition, a low oil pressure switch
screwed into the camshaft oil gallery actuates
a warning light on the instrument panel in theevent of the pressure dropping dangerously
low (photo).
10Oil supply/return ducts provide the
turbocharger lubrication.
PART B:
OPERATIONS POSSlBLE
WITH ENGINE IN CAR
Camshaft and camshaft
carrier - removal and
refitting
#
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
1Disconnect the battery, negative lead first.
2Disconnect its leads and unbolt the
distributor from the end of the camshaft, and
place it to one side.
3Disconnect the air intake hose from the
throttle valve housing.
4Disconnect the short throttle control cable
from its sector.
5Remove the throttle cable support bracket.
6Disconnect the earth leads from the
camshaft cover.
7Refer to Section 9, Part C of this
Supplement and remove the following
components.
Supplementary air valve
Inlet manifold with fuel pressure regulator
and excess pressure safety switch
Injector cooling duct
8Disconnect the wiring plug from the
Microplex ignition anti-knock sensor.
9Carry out the operations described in
Chapter 1, Section 27, paragraphs 4 to 12.
10Refitting is a reversal of removal, referring
to Section 28 of Chapter 1 for the timing belt
refitting procedure, and to Chapter 1, Sec-
tion 27, paragraphs 15 to 18.
Cylinder head -
removal and refitting#
11Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 4 to 9 in the preceding
sub-Section, then refer to Chapter 1, Section
29, but ignore all references to the
carburettor.
12Note the distributor mounting cover.
13Four additional cylinder head bolts are
used on these engines, adjacent to the spark
plugs (photo). Note that their tightening torque
differs from the other cylinder head bolts - see
Specifications. These four bolts are tightened
13•34 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
1 Oil pick-up strainer
2 Oil pump
3 Oil pressure relief valve
4 Oil filter cartridge
5 Main oil gallery6 Camshaft oil feed
7 Low oil pressure switch
8 Engine oil cooler
9 Filter mounting base
10 Turbocharger oil feed11 Turbocharger oil return
12 Oil pressure sender unit
13 Oil temperature sender
unit
14 Piston oil spray nozzle
Fig. 13.12 Piston oil spray nozzle locations - 1301 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 6A)
Letters denote cylinder bore grade
Fig. 13.11 1301 cc Turbo ie engine lubrication system (Sec 6A)
6A.9 Oil pressure sender unit

Engine oil cooler -
removal and refittingÁ
23The oil cooler is mounted behind the front
bumper/spoiler (photo).
24Disconnect the oil flow and return hoses,
either from the cooler or the oil filter cartridge
mounting base. Be prepared for some
leakage of oil (photos).
25Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove
the oil cooler heat exchanger (photo).
26When refitting, make sure that the banjo
union sealing washers are in good condition.
PART C: ENGINE REMOVAL,
DISMANTLING, REASSEMBLY
AND REFITTING
Engine/transmission -
removal and separation
#
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
1Refer to Chapter 1, Section 35, and carry
out the operations described in paragraphs 1
to 11.
2Disconnect the excessive air pressure
switch from the inlet manifold.
3Disconnect the ducts and remove the
airflow meter.
4Disconnect the leads from the spark plugs
and the distributor LT connector, and unbolt
and remove the distributor from the rear end
of the camshaft carrier.
5Disconnect the fuel return hose from the
pressure regulator. 6Disconnect the fuel inlet hose from the
injector rail.
7Disconnect the wiring plugs from the fuel
injectors.
8Disconnect the leads from the oil pressure
sender unit, the low oil pressure switch and
the coolant temperature switch.
9Remove the hose/pipe assemblies from the
intercooler.
10Disconnect the throttle control rod at the
balljoint.
11Disconnect the hoses and ducts from the
turbocharger and the mechanical bypass
valve.
12Disconnect the leads from the engine
speed and anti-knock sensors.
13Raise the front of the car and support it
securely. As the engine/transmission will
eventually be lowered to the floor, make sure
that there is sufficient clearance under the
front end for the assembly to be withdrawn. If
the car is over an inspection pit, then the car
need only be raised enough to lift the
roadwheels from the floor.
14Remove the front roadwheels.
15Disconnect the transmission earth cable.
16Working under the car, remove the engine
shields from under the wheel arches.
17Remove the engine oil cooler, and the
intercooler.
18Unscrew the fixing screws and disconnect
the driveshafts from the flanges at the
transmission final drive. The right-hand
driveshaft will not release until the upper bolt
on the suspension strut-to-hub carrier clamphas been removed, and the hub assembly
tilted downwards.
19Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from
the manifold, and then remove the front
section of the exhaust system.
20Disconnect the coolant return pipe from
the turbocharger.
21Disconnect the gearchange control rods
from the transmission selector rod. Do this by
unscrewing the self-locking nut from the bolt
which connects the clevis fork.
22Attach suitable lifting gear to the engine
lifting eyes, and take the weight of the
engine/transmission.
23Disconnect the left-front, centre-rear and
the right-hand engine/transmission mountings.
Do this by removing the bolts from the
diamond-shaped mounting plates there is no
need to disturb the flexible mounting centre
bolts.
24Lower the engine/transmission to the floor
and withdraw it from under the car.
25Carry out the operations described in
Chapter 1, Section 35, paragraphs 27 to 31.
Engine dismantling and
reassembly
26The operations are essentially as
described for the 1301 cc engine in Chapter 1,
but reference must be made to Sections 9
and 10 of this Chapter for the procedures for
removing and refitting the components of the
fuel injection, turbocharger and ignition
systems.
Engine/transmission -
reconnection and refitting
27The operations are a reversal of those
described in paragraphs 1 to 25, but
otherwise the following (photo).
a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
b) Use a new gasket at the exhaust
downpipe-to-manifold flange.
c) Check and adjust the clutch pedal travel.
d) Refill the cooling system.
e) Refill the engine and transmission with oil.
f) Reconnect the battery, negative lead
last.
13•36 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
6C.27 Filling the engine with oil6B.25 Oil cooler mounting bolts (arrowed)
6B.24B Connections at oil filter cartridge
mounting base6B.24A Oil cooler pipe connection
(arrowed)6B.23 Oil cooler

28Loosen off the retaining clips and detach
the air intake pipe from the air filter.
29Slide back the inspection cover from the
upper end of the timing cover (photo).
30Turn the engine over by hand to bring the
TDC timing marks of the flywheel-
to-bellhousing and the camshaft sprocket
-to-rear cover projection into alignment. The
crankshaft pulley also has a TDC timing mark
and this should be positioned as shown
(photos).
31Loosen off the retaining and adjustment
strap fixings, then pivot the alternator towards
the engine.
32Unscrew the upper retaining bolts
securing the timing cover.
33Loosen off the nut securing the alternator
and its drivebelt relay, then detach and
remove the alternator drivebelt.
34Unscrew and remove the crankshaft
pulley nut. Where the engine is in the car,
prevent the crankshaft from turning by
engaging top gear and having an assistant
apply the brake pedal hard. Unscrew and
remove the flywheel housing lower cover bolts
and remove the cover. The flywheel ring gear
can now be jammed with a suitable lever or
implement to prevent the crankshaft from
rotating. It should be noted that the pulley nut
is tightened to a considerable torque and a
strong socket, together with an L-bar and
extension tube, will therefore be required to
loosen and remove it (photo). Take care not todamage the gearbox/flywheel housing by
jamming the flywheel at a weak point.
35Withdraw the crankshaft pulley (photo).
36Unscrew and remove the lower retaining
bolts and remove the timing cover upwards
from the vehicle.
37Check that the previously mentioned
timing marks are still in alignment. Loosen off
the timing belt tensioner nut, then with the
tension released, withdraw the timing belt
from the sprockets.
38To remove the drivebelt tensioner, undo
the securing nut and withdraw the tensioner
pulley unit noting that it is in three sections
(photos).
39If desired, the sprockets and the rear
timing belt cover can be removed as follows,
otherwise proceed to paragraph 49.40To remove the camshaft sprocket, a
suitable tool must be used to hold the
camshaft stationary as the sprocket bolt is
loosened. A suitable tool can be improvised
as shown in photo 7B.48 using two pieces of
steel bar joined together by a pivot bolt, with
suitable bolts through the ends of the steel
bars to engage with the holes in the sprocket.
41Unscrew the sprocket bolt, then recover
the plain washer, and the thrust washer which
is bonded into a plastic sleeve (photo).
42The sprocket can now be withdrawn from
the end of the camshaft. If the sprocket is
tight, carefully lever it from the camshaft using
two screwdrivers, but take care not to
damage the rear timing belt cover.
43The crankshaft sprocket can be removed
by simply pulling it from the end of the
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•39
7B.30B Crankshaft pulley and timing cover
timing marks7B.30A Camshaft sprocket timing notch
aligned with timing (TDC) pointer in timing
case7B.29 Slide back inspection cover in the
timing case
7B.41 Removing the crankshaft sprocket
bolt, plain washer and thrust washer7B.38B The three sections of the timing
belt tensioner
7B.35 Crankshaft pulley removal7B.34 Crankshaft pulley nut removal
7B.38A Timing belt tensioner removal
13

crankshaft after the pulley securing nut has
been removed. Recover the Woodruff key
from the end of the crankshaft if it is loose
(photo).
44To remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket, a
suitable tool must be used to hold the
sprocket stationary as the securing bolt is
loosened (the bolt is extremely tight). In the
workshop, a “scissors” style tool was
improvised, using two pieces of steel bar
joined together by a pivot bolt, with their ends
bent through a right-angle to engage securely
between the teeth on the sprocket - see photo
7B.46.
45Unscrew the sprocket bolt, and recover
the washer, then withdraw the sprocket from
the end of the auxiliary shaft (photo). If thesprocket is tight, carefully lever it from the
shaft using two screwdrivers.
46Refit the auxiliary shaft sprocket, making
sure that the lug on the end of the shaft
engages with the hole in the sprocket, then
tighten the securing bolt to the specified
torque (ensure that the washer is in place
under the bolt head). Prevent the sprocket
from turning as during removal (photo).
47Where applicable, refit the Woodruff key
to the end of the crankshaft, then refit the
crankshaft sprocket with the flanged side
against the oil seal housing (photo).
48Refit the camshaft sprocket to the end of
the camshaft, making sure that the lug on the
end of the shaft engages with the hole in the
sprocket, then refit the thrust washer, plainwasher, and bolt, and tighten the bolt to the
specified torque. Prevent the camshaft from
turning as during removal (photo).
49Refit the belt tensioner pulley assembly,
ensuring that the washer is in place under the
securing nut, but do not fully tighten the nut at
this stage.
50Before refitting the new timing belt into
position, first ensure that the crankshaft and
camshaft sprocket timing marks are still
aligned as described in paragraph 30 (photo).
51If the new timing belt has two timing marks
on its outer face they must align with the
corresponding marks on the crankshaft and
camshaft sprockets. Do not distort or bend the
belt any more than is necessary during its
fitting or its structural fibres may be damaged.
52Refit the belt around the sprockets and
the tensioner pulley, starting at the crankshaft
sprocket. One of the timing index marks must
align with the scribed mark on the lower edge
of the crankshaft sprocket (opposite the
Woodruff key) whilst the second mark must
align with the timing marks of the camshaft
and rear timing belt cover (photos).
53With the belt fitted over the sprockets and
correctly aligned, temporarily refit the
crankshaft pulley nut (tightening it to its full
torque wrench setting) and then adjust the
timing belt tension.
Approximate setting
54The timing belt tension can be checked
approximately by twisting it between the
13•40 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
7B.52B Timing belt mark aligned with
scribed mark on crankshaft sprocket
(arrowed)7B.52A Timing belt refitted over the
sprockets and tensioner7B.50 Crankshaft at TDC with key and
timing mark aligned (arrowed)
7B.48 Tightening the crankshaft sprocket
bolt7B.47 Refitting the crankshaft sprocket
7B.46 Tightening the auxiliary shaft
sprocket bolt7B.45 Withdrawing the auxiliary shaft
sprocket7B.43 Remove the crankshaft Woodruff
key if it is loose

thumb and forefinger at the centre of the run
between the auxiliary shaft sprocket and the
camshaft sprocket. Using this method it
should just be possible to twist the belt
through 90º using moderate pressure.
55To adjust the tension, loosen off the
tensioner pulley nut then insert two rods (or
screwdrivers) into position in the pulley holes
and position a lever between them.
56Gently lever the tensioner pulley in the
required direction to set the tension as
described, then initially tighten the pulley nut
to lock the tensioner in the required position.
57Remove the tools from the tensioner,
recheck the tension and then tighten the
tensioner pulley nut securely.
58Rotate the crankshaft clockwise through
two complete turns using a socket or spanner
on the crankshaft pulley nut, then recheck the
belt tension. To avoid the possibility of
unscrewing the pulley nut, remove the spark
plugs to enable the engine to be turned over
easier.
59If further adjustment is required, repeat
the previously mentioned procedures. If in
doubt, err on the slightly tight side when
adjusting the tension. If the belt is set too
loose, it may jump off the sprockets resulting
in serious damage.
60Remove the crankshaft pulley retaining
nut, fit the timing belt cover, then refit and
tighten the pulley nut to the specified torque
setting.
61Refit the remaining components in the
reverse order of removal. Tighten the retaining
nuts/bolts to the specified torque settings
where given. Adjust the tension of the
alternator drivebelt as described in Section 8.
Adjustment using FIAT special
tools
62Assemble the special tools and fit them to
the belt tensioner pulley as shown in
Fig. 13.16. When fitted, the tool rod must be
as vertical as possible and it is important to
note that no sliding weights must be attached
to tool No. 1860745100.
63Slacken the tensioner pulley nut, if not
already done. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise
through two complete turns using a socket or
spanner on the crankshaft pulley nut. The
special tool rod may move from the vertical asthe engine is turned over, in which case the
joint will need to be re-adjusted to return the
rod to the vertical and the operation repeated.
64With the two revolutions of the crankshaft
completed, tighten the belt tensioner pulley
nut securely and remove the special tools.
65Remove the crankshaft pulley retaining
nut, fit the timing belt cover, then refit and
tighten the pulley nut to its specified torque
setting.
66Refit the remaining components in the
reverse order of removal. Tighten the retaining
nuts/bolts to the specified torque settings
where given. Adjust the tension of the
alternator drivebelt as described in Sec-
tion 8.
Camshaft front oil seal -
renewal#
67The camshaft front oil seal may be
renewed with the engine in the vehicle, and
the camshaft in situ, as follows.
68Remove the timing belt and the camshaft
sprocket as described previously in this
Section.
69Punch or drill a small hole in the centre of
the exposed oil seal. Screw in a self-tapping
screw, and pull on the screw with pliers to
extract the seal.
70Clean the oil seal seat with a wooden or
plastic scraper.
71Lubricate the lips of the new seal with
clean engine oil, and drive it into position until
it is flush with the housing, using a suitable
socket or tube. Take care not to damage the
seal lips during fitting. Note that the seal lips
should face inwards.
72Refit the camshaft sprocket and thetiming belt as described previously in this
Section.
Camshaft, housing and
followers -
removal and refitting
#
Note: The engine must be cold when
removing the camshaft housing. Do not
remove the camshaft housing from a hot
engine. New camshaft housing and camshaft
cover gaskets must be used on refitting.
73If the engine is still in the vehicle,
disconnect the battery negative lead.
74Refer to paragraphs 3 to 7 in this part of
this Section for details and remove the
camshaft cover.
75Remove the camshaft sprocket and timing
belt as described previously in this Section.
76Remove the three securing nuts and the
single securing bolt, and withdraw the upper
section of the rear timing belt cover.
77Unscrew the camshaft housing securing
bolts. There are seven bolts which are
accessible from outside the camshaft
housing, and five shorter bolts which are
accessible from inside the housing (these
bolts are normally covered by the camshaft
cover). Note that each bolt is fitted with two
washers (photo).
78Carefully lift the camshaft housing from
the cylinder head. Be prepared for the cam
followers to drop from their bores in the
camshaft housing as the camshaft housing is
lifted, and ensure that the cam followers are
identified for position so that they can be
refitted in their original positions (this can be
achieved by placing each cam follower over
its relevant valve in the cylinder head).
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•41
Fig. 13.16 FIAT special tool No. 1860745100 (A) for timing belt adjustment shown fitted to
the tensioner pulley - 1372 cc ie and Turbo ie engines (Sec 7B)
Use with adapter No. 1860745200 on 1372 cc ie engines and No. 1860745300 on 1372 cc
Turbo ie engines
7B.77 Removing one of the camshaft
housing shorter securing bolts
13

79Recover the gasket.
80Removal of the camshaft from the
housing, and inspection of the components is
described in the following sub-Section.
81Commence refitting by cleaning the
gasket mating surfaces of the camshaft
housing and cylinder head.
82Locate a new gasket on the cylinder head,
making sure that it is correctly positioned over
the dowels (photo).
83Ensure that the cam followers are
correctly located over their relevant valves.
84Liberally oil the cam follower bores in the
camshaft housing, then carefully lower the
housing over the cam followers, and onto the
cylinder head (photo). Some manipulation will
be required to engage the cam followers with
their relevant bores in the camshaft housing.85Loosely refit all the camshaft housing
securing bolts, ensuring that the washers are
in place under their heads, then tighten them
progressively to the specified torque, starting
at the centre of the housing and working
outwards in a spiral pattern (photo).
86Refit the upper section of the rear timing
belt cover.
87Refit the camshaft sprocket and the
timing belt as described previously in this
Section.
88Check the valve clearances as described
earlier in this Section.
89Refit the camshaft cover using a new
gasket, and tighten the securing nuts,
ensuring that the washers are in place
(photos). Where applicable, ensure that the
hose clip is in place before refitting therelevant camshaft cover securing nuts.
90The remainder of the refitting procedure is
a reversal of that given for removal.
Camshaft, housing and followers
- dismantling, inspection
and reassembly
#
91With the camshaft housing removed from
the cylinder head as previously described
proceed as follows.
92Unscrew the three securing bolts, and
withdraw the blanking plate from the end of
the camshaft housing. Recover the gasket.
93The camshaft can now be carefully
withdrawn from the blanking plate/distributor
end of the camshaft housing, taking care not
to damage the bearing journals (photo).
94With the camshaft removed, examine the
bearings in the camshaft housing, and the
cam follower bores for signs of obvious wear
or pitting. If evident, a new camshaft housing
will probably be required.
95The camshaft itself should show no signs
of marks or scoring on the journal or cam lobe
surfaces. If evident, renew the camshaft.
96Examine the cam followers for signs of
obvious wear, and for ovality, and renew if
necessary.
97It is advisable to renew the camshaft front
oil seal as a matter of course if the camshaft
has been removed. Prise out the old seal
using a screwdriver, and drive in the new seal
until it is flush with the housing, using a
suitable socket or tube (photos).
13•42 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
7B.97B Inserting the new camshaft front
oil seal7B.97A Prising out the camshaft front oil
seal7B.93 Withdrawing the camshaft from its
housing
7B.89B . . . and refit the camshaft cover7B.89A Locate a new gasket on the
camshaft housing . . .
7B.85 Tightening a camshaft housing
securing bolt7B.84 Lowering the camshaft housing on
to the cylinder head7B.82 Locating a new camshaft housing
gasket on the cylinder head

98Commence reassembly by liberally oiling
the bearings in the housing, and the oil seal lip.
99Carefully insert the camshaft into the
housing from the blanking plate/distributor
end, taking care to avoid damage to the
bearings.
100Refit the blanking plate using a new
gasket.
101Refit the camshaft housing as described
previously in this Section.
Cylinder head
(1372 cc ie engine) -
removal and refitting
#
Note: The following instructions describe
cylinder head removal and refitting leaving the
camshaft, manifolds and associated items in situ
In the head. If required, these items can be
removed separately. When removing the
cylinder head the engine must be cold - do not
remove the head from a hot engine. A new
cylinder head gasket and any associated gaskets
must be used during reassembly. FIAT specify
that the main cylinder head bolts should be
renewed after they have been used (ie tightened)
four times. If in any doubt as to the number of
times that they have been used renew them as a
precaution against possible failure.
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
102Depressurise the fuel supply system as
described in Section 9 of this Chapter.
103Disconnect the battery negative lead.
104Drain the engine coolant as described in
Section 8.
105Remove the air cleaner unit as described
in Section 9.
106Remove the timing belt as described
previously in this Section.107Disconnect the crankcase ventilation
hose from the cylinder head and the SPi
injector unit.
108Disconnect the accelerator cable at the
engine end.
109Detach the engine idle speed check
actuator lead, the inlet manifold vacuum
sensor lead, the coolant temperature sensor
lead, the injector supply lead, the throttle
position switch lead and the distributor cap
(with HT leads). Position them out of the way.
110Disconnect the brake servo hose from
the manifold.
111Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat and the inlet manifold.
112Slowly release the fuel supply and return
hose retaining clips and detach the hoses
from the injector unit housing and
connections. Catch any fuel spillage in a clean
cloth and plug the hoses to prevent the
ingress of dirt and further fuel loss.
113Unbolt and detach the exhaust downpipe
from the manifold.
114Loosen off the cylinder head retaining
bolts in a progressive manner, reversing the
sequence shown in Fig. 13.17. When all of the
bolts are loosened off, extract them and
collect the washers.
115Check that all fittings and associated
attachments are clear of the cylinder head,
then carefully lift the head from the cylinder
block. If necessary tap the head lightly with a
soft-faced mallet to free it from the block, but
do not lever it free between the joint faces.
Note that the cylinder head is located on
dowels.116Recover the old cylinder head gasket and
discard it.
117Clean the cylinder head and block mating
surfaces by careful scraping. Take care not to
damage the cylinder head - it is manufactured in
light alloy and is easily scored. Cover the coolant
passages and other openings to prevent dirt and
carbon from falling into them. Mop out all the oil
from the cylinder head bolt holes - if oil is left in
them, hydraulic pressure, caused when the bolts
are refitted, could cause the block to crack.
118If required the cylinder head can be
dismantled and overhauled as described in
paragraphs 129 to 131 of this Section.
119The new gasket must be removed from
its protective packing just before it is fitted.
Do not allow any oil or grease to come into
contact with the gasket. Commence refitting
the cylinder head by locating the new gasket
on the cylinder block so that the word “ALTO”
is facing up (photo).
120With the mating faces scrupulously
clean, refit the cylinder head into position and
engage it over the dowels. Refer to the note at
the beginning of this part of the Section, then
refit the ten main cylinder head bolts and
washers. Screw each bolt in as far as possible
by hand to start with. Do not fit the smaller
(M8 x 1.25) bolts at this stage (photos).
121The bolts must now be tightened in stages
and in the sequence shown in Fig. 13.17. Refer
to the specified torque wrench settings and
tighten all bolts to the Stage 1 torque, then
using a suitable angle gauge, tighten them to
the second stage, then the third stage (photos).
122With the main cylinder head bolts fully
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•43
7B.120B . . . and engage the positioning
dowels in their holes7B.120A Lower the cylinder head onto the
block . . .7B.119 Locating a new cylinder head
gasket on the cylinder block (engine
shown on dismantling stand)
7B.121A Tighten main cylinder head bolts
to specified torque . . .Fig. 13.17 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence on the 1372 cc ie and Turbo ie
engines (Sec 7B)
13
7B.121B . . . and then through the specified
angle

tightened, refit the five smaller (M8 x 1.25)
bolts adjacent to the line of the spark plug
holes and tighten them to their specified
torque wrench setting (photo).
123Reconnect the associated fittings to the
cylinder head in the reverse order of removal.
Ensure that the mating faces of the exhaust
manifold-to-downpipe are clean and fit a new
gasket when reconnecting.
124Ensure that all wiring connections are
cleanly and securely made.
125Top up the engine oil and coolant levels
as required on completion.
Cylinder head
(1372 cc Turbo ie engine)
- removal and refitting
#
126Proceed as described in paragraphs 102
to 125 above for the non-Turbo model, but
note the following differences.127The cylinder head cannot be removed
and refitted with the manifolds and
turbocharger fitted. It is therefore first
necessary to detach and remove the inlet
manifold, then the turbocharger and the
exhaust manifold as described in Section 9.
128The ignition distributor is mounted on the
side of the engine, not the rear end of the
cylinder head as on the “ie” engine. It is
therefore only necessary to disconnect the HT
leads from the spark plugs.
Cylinder head - inspection
and renovation¢
Note: Refer to a dealer for advice before
attempting to carry out valve grinding or seat
recutting operations. These operations may
not be possible for the DIY mechanic due to
the fitment of hardened valve seats for use
with unleaded petrol.129Use a straight-edge to check the cylinder
head gasket surface for distortion. If it
exceeds the specified tolerance, it must be
resurfaced by a FIAT dealer or automotive
engineer.
130Refer to Section 39 in Chapter 1 for the
general details on dismantling and renovating
operations on the cylinder head but note that
there is a spring seat and a flat washer fitted
between the cylinder head and the valve
springs (photos).
Crankshaft front oil seal -
removal and renewal#
131Remove the timing belt as described
earlier in this Section. Note that as mentioned
previously, the timing belt will need to be
renewed during reassembly.
132Referring to Fig. 13.18, loosen off the bolt
indicated from the timing belt rear cover.
13•44 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
7B.130H . . . the outer spring . . .7B.130G . . . the inner spring . . .7B130F . . . locate the spring seat . . .
7B.130E Refit the flat washer . . .7B.130D . . . and drive it into position7B.130C . . . locate stem oil seal . . .
7B.130B Valve assembly - 1372 cc engine;
insert valve into guide . . .7B.130A Inlet (A) and exhaust (B) valves
and associate components - 1372 cc
engine7B.122 Tighten the smaller cylinder head
bolts to their specified torque setting

133Drain the engine oil from the sump into a
suitable container. Disconnect the lead from
the engine oil level sensor in the sump.
134Where applicable, unscrew and remove
the bolts retaining the gear linkage mounting
bracket and the clutch housing lower cover
bolts. Remove the cover from the clutch
housing.
135Unscrew the sump retaining nuts and
bolts, then lower and remove the sump.
136Unscrew the timing belt rear cover
retaining bolts.
137Move the timing belt rear cover towards
the front of the car to gain access to the
retaining bolt and then unscrew and remove
the three oil seal housing retaining bolts.
Remove the crankshaft front oil seal housing.
138Note the orientation of the seal in its
housing prior to its removal. Support the
underside of the housing and carefully drive
the old oil seal from the housing using a
punch or a tubular drift of suitable diameter.
An alternative method is to punch or drill a
small hole in the face of the oil seal (but take
care not to drill into the housing) and insert a
self-tapping screw into the seal. Withdraw the
seal by gripping the screw with pliers and
pulling the seal from the housing. If necessary,
fit a second screw into the seal on the
opposite side to provide an even pull.
139Clean the mating faces of the housing
and the front of the crankcase using a suitable
scraper.
140Drive or press the new seal into positionin the housing in the reverse order of removal,
but ensure that it is correctly orientated as
noted during removal (photo).
141Refit the oil seal housing with a new
gasket and tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified torque setting (photos).
142Refit the sump as described later in this
Section using a new gasket. Tighten its
retaining nuts and bolts to the specified
torque. Refit the clutch cover and the gear
linkage mounting bracket.
143Fit the new timing belt, adjust its tension
and refit the crankshaft pulley as described
earlier in this Section.
144Reconnect the remaining components
that were detached during removal in the
reverse order and top up the engine oil level to
complete.
Crankshaft rear oil seal -
removal and renewal#
145If the engine is still in the car, disconnect
the battery negative lead.
146Remove the flywheel as described in the
next sub-Section.
147Punch or drill a small hole in the rear face
of the rear oil seal (but take care not to drill
into the housing) and insert a self-tapping
screw into the seal. Withdraw the seal by
gripping the screw with pliers and pulling it
from the housing. If necessary, fit a second
screw into the seal on the opposite side to
provide an even pull.
148Clean the seal housing, then locate the
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•45
Fig. 13.18 Timing belt rear cover bolt
(arrowed) - 1372 cc ie and Turbo ie engines
(Sec 7B)7B.130J Compress spring and refit the split
collets7B.130I . . . and cap
7B.140 Driving a new crankshaft front oil
seal into its housing7B.141B . . . ensuring it is flush with the
face of the cylinder block7B.141A Refit the crankshaft front oil seal
housing . . .
Fig. 13.20 Removing the timing belt rear
cover on the 1372 ie and Turbo ie engines
(Sec 7B)
Fig. 13.19 Unscrew the bolts at the points
indicated to release the gear linkage
mounting bracket - 1372 cc ie and Turbo ie
engines (Sec 7B)
13