engine oil FORD FESTIVA 1991 Repair Manual

DRIVE AXLE - NOISE DIAGNOSIS
Unrelated Noises
Some driveline trouble symptoms are also common to the engine, transmission, wheel bearings, tires, and other parts of the vehicle. Ensure
cause of trouble actually is in the drive axle before adjusting, repairing, or replacing any of its parts.
Non-Drive Axle Noises
A few conditions can sound just like drive axle noise and have to be considered in pre-diagnosis. The 4 most common noises are exhaust, tires,
CV/universal joints and wheel trim rings.
In certain conditions, the pitch of the exhaust gases may e gear whine. At other times, it may be mistaken for a wheel bearing rumble.
Tires, especially radial and snow, can have a high-pitched tread whine or roar, similar to gear noise. Also, some non-standard tires with an
unusual tread construction may emit a roar or whine.
Defective CV/universal joints may cause clicking noises or excessive driveline play that can be improperly diagnosed as drive axle problems.
Trim and moldings also can cause a whistling or whining noise. Ensure none of these components are causing the noise before disassembling
the drive axle.
Gear Noise
Broken clutch return springReplace return spring
Worn splines on clutch disc or input shaftReplace clutch disc and/or input
shaft
Worn clutch release bearingReplace release bearing
Dry or worn pilot bearingLubricate or replace pilot bearing
Unequal release lever contactAlign or replace release lever
Incorrect pedal free playAdjust free play
Warped or damaged clutch discReplace damaged components
Slipping
Pressure springs worn orRelease pressure plate
Oily, greasy or worn facingsClean or replace clutch disc
Incorrect clutch alignmentRealign clutch assembly
Warped clutch disc or pressure plateReplace damaged components
Binding release levers or clutch pedalLubricate and/or replace release
components
Squeaking
Worn or damaged releaseReplace release bearing
Dry or worn pilot or release bearingLubricate or replace assembly
Pilot bearing turning in crankshaftReplace pilot bearing and/or
crankshaft
Worn input shaft bearingReplace bearing and seal
Incorrect transmission alignmentRealign transmission
Dry release fork between pivotLubricate release fork and pivot
Heavy and/or Stiff Pedal
Sticking release bearing sleeveReplace release bearing and/or
sleeve
Dry or binding clutch pedal hubLubricate and align components
Floor mat interference with pedalLay mat flat in proper area
Dry or binding ball/fork pivotsLubricate and align components
Faulty clutch cableReplace clutch cable
Noisy Clutch Pedal
Faulty interlock switchReplace interlock switch
Self-adjuster ratchet noiseLubricate or replace self-adjuster
Speed control interlock switchLubricate or replace interlock
switch
Clutch Pedal Sticks Down
Binding clutch cableSee CLUTCH article
Springs weak in pressure plateReplace pressure plate
Binding in clutch linkageLubricate and free linkage
Noisy
Dry release bearingLubricate or replace release
bearing
Dry or worn pilot bearingLubricate or replace bearing
Worn input shaft bearingReplace bearing
Transmission Click
Weak springs in pressureReplace pressure plate plate
Release fork loose on ball studReplace release fork and/or
ball stud
Oil on clutch disc damperReplace clutch disc
Broken spring in slave cylinderReplace slave cylinder
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Ties rods or ball joints bindingCheck and replace if necessary
Intermediate shaft joints bindingSee STEERING COLUMN
article
Kinked pressure hosesCorrect or replace if necessary
Loose housing head spanner nutSee POWER STEERING
GEAR article
Damaged valve leverSee POWER STEERING
GEAR article
Sector shaft adjusted too tightSee ADJUSTMENTS in
POWER STEERING GEAR
article
Worm thrust bearing adjusted too tightSee ADJUSTMENTS in
POWER STEERING GEAR
article
Reaction ring sticking in cylinderSee POWER STEERING
GEAR article
Reaction ring sticking in housing headSee POWER STEERING
GEAR article
Steering pump internal leakageSee POWER STEERING
PUMP article
Steering gear-to-column misalignmentSee STEERING COLUMN
article
Lack of lubrication in linkageService front suspension
Lack of lubrication in ball jointsService front suspension
Increased Effort When Turning Wheel Fast Foaming, Milky Power Steering Fluid, Low Fluid Level or Low Pressure
High internal pump leakageSee POWER STEERING
PUMP article
Power steering pump belt slippingAdjust or replace if necessary
Low fluid levelCheck and fill to proper level
Engine idle speed to lowAdjust to correct setting
Air in pump fluid systemSee POWER STEERING
PUMP article
Pump output lowSee POWER STEERING
PUMP article
Steering gear malfunctioningSee POWER STEERING
GEAR article
Wheel Surges or Jerks
Low fluid levelCheck and fill to proper level
Loose fan beltAdjust or replace if necessary
Insufficient pump pressureSee POWER STEERING
PUMP article
Sticky flow control valveSee POWER STEERING
PUMP article
Linkage hitting oil pan at full turnReplace bent components
Kick Back or Free Play
Air in pump fluid systemSee POWER STEERING
PUMP article
Worn poppet valve in steering gearSee POWER STEERING
PUMP article
Excessive over center lashSee POWER STEERING
GEAR article
Thrust bearing out of adjustmentSee POWER STEERING
GEAR article
Free play in pot couplingSee POWER STEERING
PUMP article
Steering gear coupling loose on shaftSee POWER STEERING
PUMP article
Steering disc mounting bolts looseTighten or replace if necessary
Coupling loose on worm shaftTighten or replace if necessary
Improper sector shaft adjustmentSee POWER STEERING
GEAR article
Excessive worm piston side playSee POWER STEERING
GEAR article
Damaged valve leverSee POWER STEERING
GEAR article
Universal joint looseTighten or replace if necessary
Defective rotary valveSee POWER STEERING
GEAR article
No Power When Parking
Sticking flow control valveSee POWER STEERING
PUMP article
Insufficient pump pressure outputSee POWER STEERING
PUMP article
Excessive internal pump leakageSee POWER STEERING
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GENERAL INFORMATION
T ROUBLE SHOOT ING
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
TUNE-UP TROUBLE SHOOTING NOTE:T his article is generic in nature and all inform ation does not apply to all vehicles. For vehicle specific
inform ation, see the appropriate articles in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE category.
NOTE:T his article is generic in nature and all inform ation does not apply to all vehicles. For vehicle specific
inform ation, see the appropriate articles in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE category.
Problem & Possible CauseAction
Carbon Fouled Plugs
C l o gge d Air Fil t e rReplace Air Filter
Incorrect Idle SpeedReset Idle Speed
Faulty Ignition WiringReplace Ignition Wiring
Sticky Valves/Worn Valve SealCheck Valve Train
Fuel Injection OperationCheck Fuel Injection
Wet/Oil Fouled Plugs
Worn Rings/PistonsOverhaul/Replace Engine
Excessive Cylinder WearOverhaul/Replace Engine
Plug Gap Bridged
Combustion Chamber Carbon DepositsClean Combustion
Chamber
Blistered Electrode
Engine OverheatingCheck Cooling System
Loose Spark PlugsClean/Torque Plugs
Over-Advanced TimingReset Timing
Wrong Plug Heat RangeInstall Correct Plug
Melted Electrodes
Incorrect TimingReset Timing
Burned ValvesReplace Valves
Engine OverheatingCheck Cooling System
Wrong Plug Heat RangeInstall Correct Plug
Engine Won't Start
Loose ConnectionsCheck Connections
No PowerCheck Fuses/Battery
Loose/Worn Timing Belt/Chain/GearsCheck Belt/Chain/Gears
Engine Runs Rough
Leaky/Clogged Fuel InjectorsRepair Fuel Injectors
Leaky/Clogged Fuel LinesRepair Fuel Lines
Clogged Fuel FilterReplace Fuel Filter
Incorrect TimingReset Timing/Check
Advance
Faulty Plugs/WiresReplace Plugs/Wires
Uneven CompressionOverhaul/Replace Engine
Poor Acceleration
Incorrect Ignition TimingReset Timing
Leaky ValvesCheck Compression
Component Failure
Spark ArcingReplace Faulty Part
Defective Pick-Up CoilReplace Pick-Up Coil
Defective Ignition CoilReplace Ignition Coil
Defective Control UnitReplace Control Unit
Ignition Diagnosis By Scope Pattern
All Firing Lines Abnormally High
Retarded Ignition TimingReset Ignition Timing
Lean Air/Fuel MixtureAdjust Fuel Mixture
High Secondary ResistanceRepair Secondary
Ign it io n
All Firing Lines Abnormally Low
Rich Air/Fuel MixtureAdjust Air/Fuel Mixture
Arcing Coil WireReplace Coil Wire
Cracked CoilReplace Coil
Low Coil OutputReplace Coil
Low CompressionCheck/Repair Engine
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FUEL INJECTION TROUBLE SHOOTING
Se ve r a l High F ir in g Lin e s
Fuel Mixture UnbalancedCheck Fuel System
EGR Valve Stuck OpenClean/Replace EGR
Valve
High Plug Wire ResistanceReplace Plug Wire
Cracked/Broken PlugsReplace Plugs
Intake Vacuum LeakRepair Leak
Several Low Firing Lines
Fuel Mixture UnbalancedAdjust Fuel Mixture
Plug Wires ArcingReplace Plug Wires
Cracked Coil ArcingReplace Coil
Uneven CompressionCheck/Repair Engine
Faulty Spark PlugsReplace Plugs
Cylinders Not Firing
Cracked Distributor CapReplace Cap
Shorted Plug WiresReplace Plug Wires
Mechanical Engine FaultCheck/Repair Engine
Spark Plugs FouledReplace Plugs
Carbon Track in Distributor CapReplace Cap
Hard Starting
Defective Ignition Coil(s)Replace Coil(s)
Fouled Spark PlugsReplace Plugs
Incorrect TimingReset Ignition Timing
NOTE:T his article is generic in nature and all inform ation does not apply to all vehicles. For vehicle specific
inform ation, see the appropriate articles in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE category.
Problem & Possible CauseAction
Cold Start Valve InoperativeTest Cold Start Valve
Poor Vacuum/Electrical ConnectionRepair Connections
Contaminated FuelTest Fuel for Water/Alcohol
Bad Fuel Pump Relay/CircuitTest Relay/Wiring
Battery Voltage LowCharge/Test Battery
Low Fuel PressureTest Press. Regulator/Pump
No Distributor Reference PulseRepair Ignition System
Coolant Temp. Sensor DefectiveTest Temp. Sensor/Circuit
No Power To InjectorsCheck Injector Fuse/Relay
Hard Starting
Defective Idle Air Control (IAC)Test IAC and Circuit
EGR Valve OpenTest EGR Valve/Control
Circuit
Restricted Fuel LinesInspect/Replace Fuel Lines
Poor MAP Sensor SignalTest MAP Sensor/Circuit
Engine Stalls During Parking ManeuverCheck P.S. Press. Switch
Rough Idle
Dirty Fuel InjectorsClean/Replace Injectors
Poor MAP Sensor SignalTest MAP Sensor/Circuit
Intermittent Fuel Injector OperationCheck Harness Connectors
Erratic Vehicle Speed Sensor InputsHarness Too Close to Plug
Wires
Poor O2 Sensor SignalTest O2 Sensor/Circuit
Faulty PCV SystemCheck PCV Valve and
Hoses
Poor Acceleration
Weak Fuel PumpReplace Fuel Pump
Dirty Fuel InjectorsClean/Replace Injectors
Excessive Intake Valve DepositsClean Intake System
Poor High Speed Operation
Low Fuel Pump VolumeFaulty Fuel Pump/Filter
Poor MAP Sensor SignalTest Speed Sensor/Circuit
Acceleration Ping/Knock
Faulty EGR SystemCheck EGR Valve and
Hoses
Poor Knock Sensor SignalTest Knock Sensor/Circuit
Poor Baro Sensor SignalTest Baro Sensor/Circuit
Improper Ignition TimingAdjust Timing
Engine OverheatingCheck Cooling System
Poor Quality FuelUse Different Fuel
Carbon Build-UpDecarbon Engine
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GENERAL INFORMATION
Clutch Trouble Shooting
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
ALL MODELS
CLUTCH TROUBLE SHOOTING NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
Problem & Possible CauseAction
Clutch Chatters/Grabs
Incorrect Pedal AdjustmentAdjust Free Play
Worn Input Shaft SplineReplace Input Shaft
Binding Pressure PlateReplace Pressure Plate
Binding Throw-Out LeverCheck Throw-Out Lever,
Check Throw-Out
Bearing, Check Bearing
Retainer
Uneven Pressure Plate Contact With FlywheelAlign/Replace Worn Parts
Transmission MisalignedAlign Transmission
Worn Pressure PlateReplace Clutch Assembly
Oil-Saturated DiscReplace Clutch Assembly,
Repair Oil Leak
Loose Engine MountsReplace Engine Mounts
Clutch Pedal Sticks Down
Clutch Cable BindingReplace Clutch Cable
Weak Pressure Plate SpringsReplace Clutch Assembly
Binding Clutch LinkageLubricate Linkage
Broken Clutch Pedal Return SpringReplace Return Spring
Clutch Will Not Release
Oil-Saturated DiscReplace Clutch Assembly,
Repair Oil Leak
Defective Disc FaceReplace Clutch Assembly
Disc Sticking on Input Shaft SplinesReplace Disc/Input Shaft
Binding Pilot BearingReplace Pilot Bearing
Faulty Clutch Master CylinderReplace Master Cylinder
Faulty Clutch Slave CylinderReplace Slave Cylinder
Blown Clutch HoseReplace Hose
Sticky Throw-Out Bearing SleeveClean/Lube Sleeve
Clutch Cable BindingReplace Clutch Cable
Broken/Loose BellhousingCheck Bellhousing
Rattling/Squeaking
Broken Throw-Out Lever Return SpringReplace Return Spring
Faulty Throw-Out BearingReplace Throw-Out
Bearing
Faulty Clutch DiscReplace Clutch Disc
Faulty Pilot BearingReplace Pilot Bearing
Worn Throw-Out BearingReplace Throw-Out
Bearing
Dry Bearing Retainer Slide For Throw-Out Bearing SleeveLubricate Slide
Slipping
Faulty Pressure PlateReplace Clutch Assembly
Worn Clutch DiscReplace Clutch Assembly
Incorrect AlignmentRealign Clutch Assembly
Faulty Clutch Slave CylinderReplace Slave Cylinder
No Pedal Pressure
Leaky Hydraulic SystemCheck Clutch Master
Cylinder, Check Clutch
Slave Cylinder
Check Clutch Hose
Broken Clutch CableReplace Clutch Cable
Faulty Throw-Out LeverReplace Throw-Out Lever
Broken Clutch LinkageRepair Clutch Linkage
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GENERAL INFORMATION
Engine Perform ance Safety Precautions
Always refer to Emission Decal in engine compartment before servicing vehicle. If manual and decal differ, always use decal
specifications.
Do not allow or create a condition of misfire in more than one cylinder for an extended period of time. Damage to converter may occur
due to loading converter with unburned air/fuel mixture.
Always turn ignition off and disconnect negative battery cable BEFORE disconnecting or connecting computer or other electrical
components.
DO NOT drop or shock electrical components such as computer, airflow meter, etc.
DO NOT use fuel system cleaning compounds that are not recommended by the manufacturer. Damage to gaskets, diaphragm materials
and catalytic converter may result.
Before performing a compression test or cranking engine using a remote starter switch, disconnect coil wire from distributor and secure it
to a good engine ground, or disable ignition.
Before disconnecting any fuel system component, ensure fuel system pressure is released.
Use a shop towel to absorb any spilled fuel to prevent fire.
DO NOT create sparks or have an open flame near battery.
If any fuel system components such as hoses or clamps are replaced, ensure they are replaced with components designed for fuel system
use.
Always reassemble throttle body components with new gaskets, "O" rings and seals.
If equipped with an inertia switch, DO NOT reset switch until fuel system has been inspected for leaks.
We a r sa fe t y go ggl e s wh e n d r il l in g o r gr in d in g.
Wear proper clothing which protects against chemicals and other hazards.
Copyr ight 2009 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Article GUID: A00002342
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Let's go back to figuring out dwell/duty readings by using injector on-time specification. This is not generally practical, but we will cover it for
completeness. You NEED to know three things:
Injector mS on-time specification.
Engine RPM when specification is valid.
How many times the injectors fire per crankshaft revolution.
The first two are self-explanatory. The last one may require some research into whether it is a bank-fire type that injects every 360° of
crankshaft rotation, a bank-fire that injects every 720°, or an SFI that injects every 720°. Many manufacturers do not release this data so you
may have to figure it out yourself with a frequency meter.
Here are the four complete steps to convert millisecond on-time:
1. Determine the injector pulse width and RPM it was obtained at. Let's say the specification is for one millisecond of on-time at a hot idle
of 600 RPM.
2. Determine injector firing method for the complete 4 stroke cycle. Let's say this is a 360° bank-fired, meaning an injector fires each and
every crankshaft revolution.
3. Determine how many times the injector will fire at the specified engine speed (600 RPM) in a fixed time period. We will use 100
milliseconds because it is easy to use. Six hundred crankshaft Revolutions Per Minute (RPM) divided by 60 seconds equals 10
revolutions per second. Multiplying 10 times .100 yields one; the crankshaft turns one time in 100 milliseconds. With exactly one
crankshaft rotation in 100 milliseconds, we know that the injector fires exactly one time.
4. Determine the ratio of injector on-time vs. off-time in the fixed time period, then figure duty cycle and/or dwell. The injector fires one
time for a total of one millisecond in any given 100 millisecond period. One hundred minus one equals 99. We have a 99% duty cycle.
If we wanted to know the dwell (on 6 cylinder scale), multiple 99% times .6; this equals 59.4° dwell.
Weaknesses of Dwell/Duty Meter
The weaknesses are significant. First, there is no one-to-one correspondence to actual mS on-time. No manufacturer releases dwell/duty data,
and it is time-consuming to convert the mS on-time readings. Besides, there can be a large degree of error because the conversion forces you to
assume that the injector(s) are always firing at the same rate for the same period of time. This can be a dangerous assumption.
Second, all level of detail is lost in the averaging process. This is the primary weakness. You cannot see the details you need to make a
confident diagnosis.
Here is one example. Imagine a vehicle that has a faulty injector driver that occasionally skips an injector pulse. Every skipped pulse means
that that cylinder does not fire, thus unburned O2 gets pushed into the exhaust and passes the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor indicates lean, so the
computer fattens up the mixture to compensate for the supposed "lean" condition.
A connected dwell/duty meter would see the fattened pulse width but would also see the skipped pulses. It would tally both and likely come
back with a reading that indicated the "pulse width" was within specification because the rich mixture and missing pulses offset each other.
This situation is not a far-fetched scenario. Some early GM 3800 engines were suffering from exactly this. The point is that a lack of detail
could cause misdiagnosis.
As yo u migh t h a ve gu e sse d , a lab scope would not miss this.
RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN DWELL & DUTY CYCLE READINGS
THE TWO TYPES OF INJECTOR DRIVERS
OVERVIEW
There are two types of transistor driver circuits used to operate electric fuel injectors: voltage controlled and current controlled. The voltage
controlled type is sometimes called a "saturated switch" driver, while the current controlled type is sometimes known as a "peak and hold"
driver.
The basic difference between the two is the total resistance of the injector circuit. Roughly speaking, if a particular leg in an injector circuit has
total resistance of 12 or more ohms, a voltage control driver is used. If less than 12 ohms, a current control driver is used.
It is a question of what is going to do the job of limiting the current flow in the injector circuit; the inherent "high" resistance in the injector
circuit, or the transistor driver. Without some form of control, the current flow through the injector would cause the solenoid coil to overheat
and result in a damaged injector.
VOLTAGE CONTROLLED CIRCUIT ("SATURATED SWITCH")
Dwell Meter (2)Duty Cycle Meter
1°1%
15°25%
30°50%
45°75%
60°100%
(1)These are just some examples for your understanding. It is okay to fill in the gaps.
(2)Dwell meter on the six-cylinder scale.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
Page 4 of 19 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - GENERAL INFORMATION Waveforms - Injector Pattern Tutorial
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GENERAL INFORMATION
Manual Transmission Trouble Shooting
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
INTRODUCTION
There are many times when the transmission is incorrectly blamed for shifting problems or noises that are actually caused by other reasons.
Shift difficulties are frequently caused by conditions outside of the transmission or transaxle. Typical conditions include: shift linkage, shift
cables, alignment of engine to transmission, worn engine mounts or clutch problems. Drive train noises may come from many sources such as
tires, road surfaces, wheel bearings, differentials, engine or exhaust system. Repairing or overhauling transmission will not cure these
problems.
No manufacturer makes a perfectly quiet transmission. Gear rollover noise is present in most constant mesh transmissions and will tend to
disappear when the clutch is disengaged or transmission is placed in gear. If clutch is properly adjusted, clutch release bearing noise will
disappear when release bearing is moved enough to slide release bearing away from pressure plate.
Trouble shooting can be helped by driving vehicle on a smooth level road to help eliminate tire and body noise. Note whether noise occurs on
acceleration, coasting, deceleration or steady driving conditions. Some problems may only occur when transmission is either hot or cold. Gear
lubricant that is too thick can cause hard shifting on cold mornings before engine is warm and vehicle has been driven.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE TROUBLE SHOOTING NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
ConditionPossible Cause
Noisy In Forward GearsLow Gear Oil Level, Loose Bellhousing Bolts, Worn Bearings Or
Gears
Clunk On Deceleration (FWD Only)Loose Engine Mounts, Worn Inboard CV Joints, Worn Differential
Pinion Shaft, Oversized Side Gear Hub Counterbore in Case
Gear Clash When Shifting Forward GearsClutch Out Of Alignment, Shift Linkage Damaged Or Out Of
Adjustment, Gears Or Synchronizers Damaged, Low Gear Oil
Level
Transmission Noisy When Moving (RWD Only); Quiet In Neutral
With Clutch EngagedWorn Rear Output Shaft Bearing
Gear RattleWorn Bearings, Worn Gear Oil, Low Gear Oil, Worn Gears
Steady Ticking At Idle (Increases With RPM)Broken Tooth On A Gear
Gear Clash When Shifting Forward GearsWorn Or Broken Synchronizers, Faulty Clutch
Loud Whine In ReverseNormal Condition (1)
Noise When Stepping On ClutchFaulty Release Bearing, Worn Pilot Bearing
Ticking Or Screeching As Clutch Is EngagedFaulty Release Bearing, Uneven Pressure Plate Fingers
Click Or Snap When Clutch Is EngagedWorn Clutch Fork, Worn Pivot Ball, Worn Or Broken Front
Bearing Retainer
Transmission Shifts HardClutch Not Releasing, Incorrect Gear Oil, Shift Mechanism
Binding, Clutch Installed Backward
Will Not Shift Into One Gear, Shifts Into All OthersBent Shift Fork, Worn Detent Balls
Locked Into Gear, Cannot ShiftClutch Adjustment, Worn Detent Balls
Transmission Jumps Out Of GearPilot Bearing Worn, Bent Shift Fork, Worn Gear Teeth Or Face,
Excessive Gear Train End Play, Worn Synchronizers, Missing
Detent Ball Spring, Shift Mechanism Worn Or Out Of Adjustment,
Engine Or Transmission Mount Bolts Loose, Transmission Not
Aligned
Shift Lever RattleWorn Detents Or Shift Lever, Worn Shift Fork, Worn
Synchronizer Sleeves
Shift Lever Hops Under AccelerationWorn Engine Or Transmission Mounts
(1)Most units use spur cut gears in Reverse and are naturally noisy.
Copyr ight 2009 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Article GUID: A00010942
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1991 GENERAL SERVICING
A/C Com pressor Refrigerant Oil Checking
ISOLATING COMPRESSOR
1. Connect service gauge set to the compressor service valves and open compressor valves slightly (turn in clockwise). Start engine and
operate air conditioning. Slowly turn compressor suction valve clockwise toward closed (front-seated) position.
2. When suction pressure is reduced to zero or less, turn off engine and compressor and quickly turn suction valve stem in to full front-
seated position. Suction pressure should be slightly above zero. Turn discharge valve into front-seated position.
3. To check oil level, slowly open compressor crankcase plug to relieve any remaining pressure. After oil level is corrected, cap service
gauge ports on both valves. Back-seat suction service valve to allow refrigerant to enter compressor. Open discharge valve halfway.
4. Loosen discharge service valve cap, allowing refrigerant pressure to force air out of compressor. Back-seat service valve and tighten cap.
Compressor is now ready for operation.
REFRIGERANT OIL
Only new, pure, moisture-free refrigerant oil should be used in the air conditioning system. This oil is highly refined and dehydrated to a point
where moisture content is less than 10 parts per million. The oil container must be tightly closed at all times when not in use, or moisture will
be absorbed into the refrigerant oil from the air.
SERVICING PRECAUTIONS
DISCHARGING SYSTEM PRECAUTIONS
If compressor has stem-type service valves, it can be isolated and removed without discharging entire system. See ISOLATING
COMPRESSOR at the beginning of this article. Otherwise, discharge system completely before loosening any fittings.
DISCONNECTING LINES & FITTINGS TEST
After system is discharged, carefully clean area around all fittings to be opened. Always use 2 wrenches when tightening or loosening fittings
to avoid twisting or distorting lines. Cap or plug all openings as soon as lines are removed. DO NOT remove caps until immediately before
connections are made. This will keep entry of air and moisture to a minimum.
CONNECTING LINES AND FITTINGS
A new gasket or "O" ring should be used in all instances when connecting lines or fittings. Dip "O" ring in new refrigerant oil and ensure it is
not twisted during installation. Always use 2 wrenches to prevent damage to lines and fittings.
PLACING SYSTEM IN OPERATION
After component service or replacement has been completed and all connections have been made, evacuate system thoroughly with a vacuum
pump. Charge system with proper amount of refrigerant and perform a leak test. See REFRIGERANT OIL & R-12 SPECIFICATIONS chart in
this section for system capacities. Be sure to check all fittings that have been opened. After system has been leak tested, make a system
performance check.
ATSUGI ROTARY VANE DRAIN & REFILL
1. Before checking and adjusting oil level, operate compressor at engine idling speed, with controls set for maximum cooling and high
blower speed, for 20 to 30 minutes to return oil to compressor.
2. Stop engine, discharge refrigerant and remove compressor from vehicle. See SERVICING PRECAUTIONS at beginning of article. Drain
compressor oil from compressor discharge port and measure the amount. Oil is sometimes hard to drain when compressor is cool.
Remove oil while compressor is warm.
3. If the amount drained is less than 3 ounces, conduct leak tests at system connections, and if necessary, repair or replace faulty parts.
Check purity of oil and adjust oil level as follows.
4. If amount drained was above 3 ounces, oil level is right. Pour in same amount as was drained. If amount drained was below 3 ounces,
pour in 3 ounces of new refrigerant oil.
BOSCH 6-CYL DRAIN & REFILL
1. Before checking and adjusting oil level, operate compressor at engine idling speed, with controls set for maximum cooling and high
blower speed, for 20 to 30 minutes to return oil to compressor.
2. Stop engine and discharge refrigerant. Remove refrigerant oil level inspection plug on side of compressor. Oil should be at lower lip of
threaded hole. Add necessary new refrigerant oil (if low). Replace inspection plug and tighten to 10-12 ft. lbs. (14-16 N.m). NOTE:Only com pressors with stem -type service valves can be isolated.
NOTE:Recent findings by the EPA indicate that refrigerant is harm ful to the earth's protective Ozone layer.
When discharging refrigerant, DO NOT allow refrigerant to enter the atm osphere. If available, use
refrigerant recovery/recycle system s when discharging system . Always follow m anufacturer's
instructions.
NOTE:Air conditioning system s will not norm ally need addition of refrigerant oil unless definite oil loss has
occurred due to ruptured lines, leaking com pressor seals, com pressor overhaul or com ponent
replacem ent.
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CALSONIC V5 5-CYLINDER
1. Before checking and adjusting oil level, operate compressor at 1000-1500 engine RPM, and set controls at maximum cooling and
blowing speed for 20-30 minutes to return oil to compressor.
2. Stop engine. Discharge refrigerant and remove compressor from vehicle. See SERVICING PRECAUTIONS at the beginning of this
article. Drain compressor oil from compressor discharge port and measure oil amount. Oil may be hard to drain if compressor is cool.
Drain oil while compressor is warm.
3. If amount drained is less than 3.2 ounces, conduct leak tests at system connections. Repair or replace faulty parts as necessary. Check
purity of oil and oil level as follows.
4. If amount drained is more than 3.2 ounces, oil level is okay; fill with same amount drained using new oil. If amount drained is less than
3.2 ounces, pour in 3.2 ounces of new refrigerant oil.
DIESEL KIKI ROTARY VANE DRAIN & REFILL
1. Before checking and adjusting oil level, operate compressor at engine idling speed, with controls set for maximum cooling and high
blower speed, for 20 to 30 minutes to return oil to compressor.
2. Stop engine, discharge refrigerant and remove compressor from vehicle. See SERVICING PRECAUTIONS at the beginning of this
article. Drain compressor oil from compressor discharge port and measure the amount. Oil is sometimes hard to drain when compressor
is cool. Remove oil while compressor is warm.
3. If the amount is less than 2.4 ounces, conduct leak tests at system connections, and if necessary, repair or replace faulty parts. Check
purity of oil and adjust oil level as follows.
4. If amount drained was above 2.4 ounces, oil level is right. Pour in same amount as was drained. If amount drained was below 2.4
ounces, pour in 2.4 ounces of new refrigerant oil.
DIESEL KIKI 6-CYL DRAIN & REFILL
1. Before checking and adjusting oil level, operate compressor at engine idling speed, with controls set for maximum cooling and high
blower speed, for 20 to 30 minutes to return oil to compressor.
2. Stop engine, discharge refrigerant and remove compressor from vehicle. See SERVICING PRECAUTIONS at the beginning of this
article. Remove oil drain plug and drain oil. Measure amount of oil drained. Install drain plug with new "O" ring.
3. If amount drained was more than 2 ounces (4.4 ounces for Infinity), refill with same amount of new oil. If amount drained was less than
2 ounces (4.4 ounces for Infinity), refill with 2 ounces (4.4 ounces for Infinity). Install filler plug and recharge system.
FORD FX-15 6-CYLINDER DRAIN & REFILL
1. Slowly discharge system. Remove A/C compressor. Drain compressor oil from suction and discharge ports. Measure amount drained and
discard oil.
2. If amount drained from removed (old) compressor is between 3 and 5 ounces, add drained amount of new SUNINSO 5GS refrigerant oil
into the NEW compressor through suction port.
3. If amount drained is less than 3 ounces, add 3 ounces to the NEW compressor. If amount drained is more than 5 ounces, add 5 ounces.
Use new "O" rings on refrigerant lines. Install A/C compressor. Evacuate and recharge system. Perform leak test.
HARRISON 4-CYL DRAIN & REFILL
The Harrison 4-cyl compressor is charged (new) with 6 ounces of refrigerant oil. Because compressor does not have an oil sump, it should not
have to be removed for oil measurement (it retains very little oil). Note the following situations for checking and adding oil to this compressor.
NO OIL LEAK; REPLACING COMPONENTS
If only the compressor is to be replaced, remove, drain oil, measure and reinstall an equal amount of new oil. If evaporator is being replaced,
add 3 ounces of new oil. If condenser is being replaced, add one ounce.
LOSS OF REFRIGERANT OVER EXTENDED PERIOD
When a loss of refrigerant has occurred over an extended period of time and a component is being replaced to correct the leak, add an
appropriate amount of refrigerant oil to the component.
SIGNS OF EXCESSIVE OIL LEAKAGE
If system has lost excessive oil, remove accumulator. Drain and measure oil. If more than 3 ounces is measured, replace the same amount of
new oil as was drained. If less than 3 ounces is measured, add 3 ounces of new oil. Add and additional 2 ounces of new oil to compensate for
that lost by replacing the accumulator (held in desiccant).
HARRISON V5 5-CYLINDER DRAIN & REFILL
1. If system is operable, run for several minutes to stabilize system before performing repairs. Turn off engine. Discharge system and
remove compressor. See SERVICING PRECAUTIONS at the beginning of this article. Remove drain plug. Drain and measure oil. NOTE:Replacem ent FX-15 com pressors contain 7 ounces of refrigerant oil. Prior to installing com pressor,
drain refrigerant oil and determ ine proper am ount of refrigerant oil to be added.
NOTE:T he Harrison com pressor DOES NOT have an oil sum p. It's crucial that the com pressor rem ains well
oiled. It takes very little tim e to destroy this com pressor if it runs dry.
NOTE:If the exact oil charge is in doubt, drain and flush system . Add a new 6-ounce charge of refrigerant oil to
the system .
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