engine oil FORD FESTIVA 1991 Workshop Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: FORD, Model Year: 1991, Model line: FESTIVA, Model: FORD FESTIVA 1991Pages: 454, PDF Size: 9.53 MB
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memory. Intermittent failures may be caused by a sensor, connector, or wiring. See INTERMITTENTS in TESTS W/O CODES article in the
ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
VISUAL CHECK & VEHICLE PREPARATION
Before connecting any equipment to diagnose EEC system, perform following preparatory procedures:
Verify condition of air cleaner and air ducts.
Check all vacuum hoses for leaks, restrictions, or improper routing.
Check EEC system wiring harness electrical connections for corrosion, bent or broken pins, loose wires or terminals, or improper
routing.
Check ECA, sensors, and actuators for physical damage.
Check engine oil and coolant level.
Perform all necessary safety precautions to prevent personal injury or vehicle damage.
Set parking brake. Place shift lever in Park for automatic transmissions, or Neutral for manual transmissions. DO NOT move shift lever
during test unless specifically directed.
Turn off all lights and accessories. Ensure vehicle doors are closed when measuring voltage or resistance.
Start engine. Run at idle until upper radiator hose is hot and pressurized and engine is off fast idle. Check for leaks around exhaust
manifold, exhaust gas oxygen sensor, and vacuum hose connections.
Turn ignition off. Service items as required. Go to EQUIPMENT HOOK-UP .
EQUIPMENT HOOK-UP
VOM
1. Turn ignition off. Connect a jumper wire from STI connector to ground. Refer to SELF-TEST CONNECTOR LOCATION and
SELF
-TEST CONNECTOR WIRE COLORS tables. See Fig. 1 .
2. Connect VOM between STO terminal and engine ground. Set VOM to measure 0-20 volts DC.
CHECK ENGINE Light (MIL)
Connect a jumper wire between STI connector and ground.
SUPER STAR II Tester
Turn ignition off. Connect adapter cable leads to diagnostic tester. Connect service adapter cables to vehicle self-test connectors. Ground
adapter cable.
SELF-TEST CONNECTOR LOCATION
SELF-TEST CONNECTOR WIRE COLORS
Fig. 1: Self
-Test Connector Terminal ID
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
RETRIEVING CODES
Reading Service Codes
ApplicationLocation
1.3LLeft Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
1.6LRight Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
CircuitWire Color
1.3L
SMLBlue/Green
STIYellow/Green
STOYellow/White
1.6L
SMLBlack/Blue
STIYellow
STOGreen/Black
Page 2 of 20 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - G - TESTS W/CODES 1991-92 ENGINE PERFORMANCE Ford Motor Co. Self-Diagnostics
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1.3L
1. Connect spark tester between coil secondary wire and ground. Crank engine several times, leaving ignition on between cranking periods.
If continuous sparks jump tester gap, go to next step. If continuous sparks do not jump tester gap, go to step 3).
2. With ignition off, connect BOB, leaving ECA disconnected. Connect test light between test pins IDM and VPWR. Crank engine several
times. If test light flashes each time engine cranks, IDM circuit is okay. Return to QUICK TESTS if directed here from there. If test light
does not flash, repair IDM wire between ECA and coil.
3. Unplug connector from ignition coil. Connect test light between coil IDM wire and PWR wire. Crank engine several times, leaving
ignition on between cranking periods. If test light flashes continuously, go to next step. If test light does not flash continuously, go to
step 6).
4. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between coil harness PWR wire and ground. If voltage is greater than 10 volts, replace coil. If voltage
is less than 10 volts, repair wire between ignition switch and coil.
5. Connect test light between PWR and ground terminals at coil harness connector. Turn ignition on. If test light glows, replace coil. If test
light does not glow, repair ground wire to coil.
6. Unplug connector from ignition module. Connect jumper wire between SPOUT wire on ignition module harness connector and mating
terminal on ignition module. Connect another jumper wire between ignition module GND wire and mating connector. Leave IDM wire
disconnected. Connect test light between IDM terminal on ignition module and PWR wire. Crank engine several times, leaving ignition
on between cranking periods. If test light flashes each time engine cranks, repair wire between ignition module IDM wire and coil . If t est
light does not flash, go to next step.
7. Turn ignition off. Unplug ignition module connector. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ignition module PWR wire and ground.
Turn ignition on. If voltage is not more than 10 volts, repair PWR wire from ignition switch. If voltage is more than 10 volts, go t o n e xt
step.
8. Turn ignition off. Unplug ignition module connector. Turn ignition on. Connect test light between ignition coil PWR wire and ignition
module GND wire. Turn ignition on. If test light glows, go to step 10). If test light does not glow, go to next step.
9. Turn ignition off. Unplug ignition module connector. Connect test light between ignition coil PWR wire and ignition module SPOUT
wire. Crank engine. If test light flashes, check ignition module SPOUT wire for short to ground; if no short exists, replace ignition
module. If test light does not flash, go to next step.
10. Turn ignition off. Unplug ignition module connector. Install BOB, leaving ECA disconnected. Check SPOUT wire for continuity
between BOB test pin and ignition module. If continuity exists, check SPOUT wire for shorts to any other wire. If no short exists,
replace ECA. If continuity does not exist, repair SPOUT wire to ECA.
1.6L
1. Connect spark tester between coil secondary wire and ground. Crank engine several times, leaving ignition on between cranking periods.
If continuous sparks do not jump tester gap, go to step 3). If continuous sparks jump tester gap, go to next step.
2. Turn ignition off. Connect BOB. Leave ECA disconnected. Connect test light between test BOB pins IDM and VPWR. Crank engine
several times. If test light flashes each time engine cranks, IDM circuit is okay. Return to QUICK TESTS if directed here from there. If
test light does not flash, repair IDM wire between ECA and coil.
3. Unplug connector from ignition coil. Connect test light between coil IDM wire and PWR wire. Crank engine several times, leaving
ignition on between cranking periods. If test light does not flash continuously, go to step 6). If test light flashes continuously, go to next
step.
4. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between coil harness PWR wire and ground. If voltage is greater than 10 volts, replace coil. If voltage
is less than 10 volts, repair wire between ignition switch and coil.
5. Connect test light between PWR and ground terminals at coil harness connector. Turn ignition on. If test light glows, replace coil. If test
light does not glow, repair ground wire to coil.
6. Unplug connector from ignition module. Connect a jumper wire between PWR wire on ignition module harness connector and mating
terminal on ignition module. Leave IDM wire disconnected. Connect test light between IDM terminal on ignition module and PWR
wire. Crank engine several times, leaving ignition on between cranking periods. If test light flashes each time engine cranks, repair wire
between ignition module IDM wire and coil. If test light does not flash. go to next step.
7. Unplug connector from ignition module. Measure voltage between ignition module PWR wire and ground. If voltage is not higher than
10 volts, repair PWR wire from ignition switch. If voltage is higher than 10 volts, go to next step.
8. Turn ignition off. Unplug ignition module connector. Turn ignition on. Connect test light between ignition module PWR wire and
ignition module GND wire. Turn ignition on. If test light glows, replace ignition module. If test light does not glow, repair ignition
module ground wire.
PINPOINT TEST CPS - CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
1.3L
GND2A39, 40, 44, 60BLK
IDM(1) (1) YEL/GRN
PWR(1) (1) BLK/WHT
SPOUT1G36BLU/ORG
1.6L
IDM1M6YEL/BLU
PWR**********BLK/WHT
(1)ECA and BOB pins not specified.
NOTE:Enter this test only when Code 02 is displayed during QUICK T EST S procedure or when directed here
from another PINPOINT TEST.
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connector while moving vane in VAF meter. Voltage should be as specified in VAF METER VOLTAGE table. If voltage is okay,
repair VAF wire to ECA. If voltage is not okay, go to next step.
VAF METER VOLTAGE
4. Unplug connector from VAF. Using jumper wires, connect VPWR and SIGRTN terminals on VAF connector to corresponding terminals
on VAF meter. Leave VAF and VMREF wires disconnected. Measure voltage between VAF terminal at VAF meter, and SIGRTN pin at
harness connector while moving vane in VAF meter. Voltage should be as specified in VAF METER VOLTAGE
table. If voltage is
okay, repair VMREF wire to ECA. If voltage is not okay, go to next step.
5. Unplug connector from VAF meter. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between SIGRTN and VPWR wire. If voltage is more than 10
volts, replace VAF meter. If voltage is not more than 10 volts, go to next step.
6. Unplug VAF meter connector. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between VAF meter VPWR wire and ground. If voltage is more than
10 volts, repair VAF wire to ECA. If voltage is not more than 10 volts, go to PINPOINT TEST VPWR.
PINPOINT TEST ECT - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
Fig. 9: Identifying ECT Sensor Circuits
ECT CIRCUIT PIN IDENTIFICATION
1.3L
1. Turn ignition off. Install BOB. Leave ECA disconnected. Unplug ECT connector. Check for continuity between ECT test pin and ECT
terminal (Red/Blue wire) on ECT harness connector. If continuity does not exist, repair ECT wire between ECA and ECT sensor. If
continuity exists, go to next step.
2. Unplug ECT sensor. Check for continuity between Black wire at ECT sensor and ground. If continuity does not exist, repair Black wire
between ECT sensor and ground. If continuity exists, go to next step.
3. Reconnect ECA. Measure resistance between BOB ECT test pin and ground pin. If resistance is 500-1000 ohms, replace ECA. If
resistance is not 500-1000 ohms, replace ECT sensor.
1.6L
1. Turn ignition off. Install BOB. Leave ECA disconnected. Unplug ECT connector. Check for continuity between ECT test pin and ECT
terminal (Blue/Red wire) on ECT harness connector. If continuity does not exist, repair ECT wire between ECA and ECT sensor. If
Door PositionVolts
1/8 Open3.24
1/4 Open5.60
3/8 Open5.62
1/2 Open5.83
5/8 Open6.02
3/4 Open6.57
7/8 Open7.46
Full Open7.87
NOTE:Enter this test only when a Code 09 is displayed during QUICK T EST S procedure or when directed here
from another PINPOINT T EST . T o prevent unnecessary diagnosis, inspect coolant level, oil level,
cooling fan, therm ostat, and airflow to radiator before testing.
CircuitECA PinBOB PinWire Color
1.3L
ECT2Q7RED/BLU
GND(1) (1) BLK
1.6L
ECT2I7BLU/RED
SIGRTN2C46BLU/YEL
(1)Not specified.
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IDLE SPEED
While the engine is cold, the Idle Speed Control By-Pass Air (ISC-BPA) Valve increases idle speed to warm the engine quickly. At engine
temperatures less than 140°F (60°C), the valve is open. As the engine warms, the valve begins to close. The valve is fully closed at engine
temperatures higher than 140°F (60°C). Idle speed is also affected by various switches, sensors and load on the engine.
ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM
CAPRI
A pick-up coil within the distributor sends a signal to a Distributor-Mounted Ignition Module With Vacuum Advance (DMIVA) within the
distributor. The DMIVA then sends a signal which fires the coil. When the coil fires, the distributor directs high voltage current to the spark
plugs. The DMIVA system operates independently of the ECA.
FESTIVA
A pick-up coil within the distributor sends a signal to a transistorized ignition module on the coil bracket. A timing signal also goes from the
ECA to the ignition module. The ignition module then sends a signal which fires the coil. When the coil fires, the distributor directs high
voltage current to the spark plugs.
IGNITION TIMING CONTROL SYSTEM
CAPRI
Spark timing is controlled by vacuum and centrifugal advance mechanisms and by a signal from the ECA. The ECA does not affect ignition
timing on turbo models. On turbo models, a knock sensor and control unit retard ignition timing when knock occurs.
FESTIVA
The ECA generates a spark timing signal from data received from the BP, CPS and VAF. This signal goes to the ignition module. The ignition
module then sends a signal to fire the coil.
HIGH ALTITUDE SPARK ADVANCE CORRECTION
A barometric pressure sensor is incorporated into the ECA on Festiva and is a separate component on Capri. At high altitudes, the ECA sends
a signal to the ignition module to advance ignition timing. This feature is not used on turbo models.
KNOCK SENSOR (CAPRI)
A Knock Sensor (KS) generates a signal when knock occurs. A control unit processes this signal and then sends it to the ignition module to
retard spark timing. The KS is located in the engine block, near the oil pressure switch. This device is only used on 1.6L turbo engines.
KNOCK CONTROL UNIT (CAPRI)
The Knock Control Unit filters normal engine vibration signals from the KS, then sends a signal to the ignition module to retard spark timing.
This unit, used only on 1.6L turbo engines, is located on right side of engine compartment.
EMISSION SYSTEMS
DECELERATION SYSTEM (DASHPOT)
The deceleration control system closes the throttle plate gradually during deceleration. The dashpot prevents engine stalling on deceleration
and provides a smooth transition from deceleration to sudden acceleration.
EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM
CARBON CANISTER
The carbon canister stores vapors from the fuel tank until they are purged and burned in the engine. On Festiva, carbon canister is
located under the brake booster. On Capri, carbon canister is located on the right side of the engine compartment near the cowl panel.
CANISTER PURGE SOLENOID
This component is connected between the carbon canister and intake manifold. When the ECA sends a signal to the solenoid to open,
fuel vapors in the carbon canister are drawn into the engine.
CANISTER PURGE VALVE
This valve opens to purge vapors from the carbon canister into the engine intake system. The valve is part of the canister purge solenoid.
ROLLOVER VENT VALVE
This valve, located in front of the fuel tank, blocks the vapor line in case of vehicle rollover.
This valve, located in front of the fuel tank, blocks the vapor line in case of vehicle rollover.
CATALYTIC CONVERTER
The catalytic converter is in the exhaust system, between the exhaust manifold and the muffler. It converts certain pollutants in the exhaust
Page 5 of 6 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - E - THEORY/OPERATION 1991 ENGINE PERFORMANCE Ford/Mercury Theory & Operation
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CDI
Capacitor Discharge Ignition
CEC
Computerized Engine Control
CID
Cubic Inch Displacement
cm
Centimeter
CMP
Camshaft Position Sensor
CO
Carbon Monoxide
CO
2
Carbon Dioxide
Cont.
Continued
CONV
Convertible
CP
Canister Purge
CKP
Crankshaft Position Sensor
CTS
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Cu. In.
Cubic Inch
CVC
Constant Vacuum Control
CV
Check Valve or Constant Velocity
CW
Clockwise
CYL or Cyl.
Cylinder
C
3 I
Computer Controlled Coil Ignition
C
4
Computer Controlled Catalytic Converter
"D"
"D"
Page 4 of 15 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - GENERAL INFORMATION Commonly Used Abbreviations
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Broken clutch housingSee STARTER article
Pinion shaft rusted or drySee STARTER article
Engine basic timing incorrectSee Ignition Timing in TUNE-
UP article
Broken teeth on engine flywheelReplace flywheel and check for
starter pinion gear damage
Starter Will Not Crank Engine
Faulty overrunning clutchSee STARTER article
Broken clutch housingSee STARTER article
Broken flywheel teethReplace flywheel and check for
starter pinion gear damage
Armature shaft sheared or reduction gear teeth strippedSee STARTER article
Weak batteryCharge or replace battery as
necessary
Faulty solenoidSee On-Vehicle Tests in
STARTER article
Poor groundsCheck all ground connections
for tight and clean connections
Ignition switch faulty or misadjustedAdjust or replace ignition
switch as necessary
Starter Cranks Engine Slowly
Battery weak or defectiveCharge or replace battery as
necessary
Engine overheatedSee ENGINE COOLING
SYSTEM article
Engine oil too heavyCheck that proper viscosity oil
is used
Poor battery-to-starter connectionsCheck that all between battery
and starter are clean and tight
Current draw too low or too highSee Bench Tests in STARTER
article
Bent armature, loose pole shoes screws or worn bearingSee STARTER article
Burned solenoid contactsReplace solenoid
Faulty starterReplace starter
S t a r t e r E n ga ge s E n gin e On l y M o me n t a r il y
Engine timing too far advancedSee Ignition Timing in TUNE-
UP article
Overrunning clutch not engaging properlyReplace overrunning clutch.
See STARTER article
Broken starter clutchSee STARTER article
Broken teeth on engine flywheelReplace flywheel and check
starter pinion gear for damage
Weak drive assembly thrust springSee STARTER article
Weak hold-in coilSee Bench Tests in STARTER
article
Starter Drive Will Not Engage
Defective point assemblySee Testing in STARTER
article
Poor point assembly groundSee Testing in STARTER
article
Defective pull-in coilReplace starter solenoid
Starter Relay Does Not Close
Dead batteryCharge or replace battery as
necessary
Faulty wiringCheck all wiring and
connections leading to relay
Neutral safety switch faultyReplace neutral safety switch
Starter relay faultyReplace starter relay
Starter Drive Will Not Disengage
Starter motor loose on mountingsTighten starter attach bolts
Worn drive end bushingSee STARTER article
Damaged engine flywheel teethReplace flywheel and starter
pinion gear for damage
Drive yolk return spring broken or missingReplace return spring
Faulty ignition switchReplace ignition switch
Insufficient clearance between winding leads to solenoid terminal and main contact in solenoidReplace starter solenoid
Starter clutch not disengagingReplace starter clutch
Ignition starter switchReplace ignition switch
contacts sticking
Starter Relay Operates but Solenoid Does Not
Faulty solenoid switch, switch connections or relayCheck all wiring between relay
and solenoid or replace relay
or solenoid as necessary
Page 5 of 36 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - GENERAL INFORMATION Trouble Shooting - Basic Procedures
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AIR CONDITIONING & HEAT
AIR CONDITIONING TROUBLE SHOOTING
BASIC AIR CONDITIONING TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART
HEATER SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING
BASIC HEATER SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART
Broken lead or loose soldered connectionsRepair wire or wire
connections as necessary
Solenoid Plunger Vibrates When Switch is Engaged
Weak batteryCharge or replace battery as
necessary
Solenoid contacts corrodedClean contacts or replace
solenoid
Faulty wiringCheck all wiring leading to
solenoid
Broken connections inside switch coverRepair connections or replace
solenoid
Open hold-in wiresolenoid
Low Current Draw
Worn brushes or weak brush springsReplace brushes or brush
springs as necessary
High Pitched Whine During Cranking Before Engine Fires but Engine Fires and Cranks Normally
Distance too great between starter pinion and flywheelAlign starter or check that
correct starter and flywheel are
being used
High Pitched Whine After Engine Fires With Key released. Engine Fires and Cranks Normally
Distance too small between starter pinion and flywheelFlywheel runout contributes to
the intermittent nature
WARNING:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. T he purpose of this T rouble Shooting inform ation is to provide a list
of com m on causes to problem sym ptom s. For m odel-specific T rouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT ,
DIAGNOST IC, or T EST ING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
CONDITIONPOSSIBLE CAUSE
Compressor Not WorkingCompressor clutch circuit open.
.....Compressor clutch coil inoperative.
.....Poor clutch ground connection.
.....Fan belts loose.
.....Thermostatic switch inoperative.
.....Thermostatic switch not adjusted.
.....Ambient temperature switch open.
.....Superheat fuse blown.
Excessive Noise or VibrationMissing or loose mounting bolts.
.....Bad idler pulley bearings.
.....Fan belts not tightened correctly.
.....Compressor clutch contacting body.
.....Excessive system pressure.
.....Compressor oil level low.
.....Damaged clutch bearings.
.....Damaged reed valves.
.....Damaged compressor.
In su fficien t o r No Co o l in g; Co mp resso r
WorkingExpansion valve inoperative.
.....Heater control valve stuck open.
.....Low system pressure.
.....Blocked condenser fins.
.....Blocked evaporator fins.
.....Vacuum system leak.
.....Vacuum motors inoperative.
.....Control cables improperly adjusted.
.....Restricted air inlet.
.....Mode doors binding.
.....Blower motor inoperative.
.....Temperature above system capacity.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. T he purpose of this T rouble Shooting inform ation is to provide a list
of com m on causes to problem sym ptom s. For m odel-specific T rouble Shooting, refer to DIAGNOST IC,
or T EST ING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
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Engine overheatingCheck cooling system, See
COOLING
Auto. Trans. pressure regulator valve faultyReplace pressure regulator
va l ve
Auto. Trans. fluid level too lowAdd fluid as necessary
Improper vacuum diverter valve operationReplace vacuum diverter valve
Vacuum leaksInspect vacuum system and
repair as required
Leaking piston ringsReplace piston rings, See
ENGINES
Faulty High Speed Operation
Low fuel pump volumeReplace fuel pump
Le a kin g va l ve s o r wo r nReplace valves and/or springs,
See ENGINES
Incorrect valve timingReset valve timing,See
ENGINES
In t ake man ifo l d rest rict edRemove restriction
Worn distributor shaftReplace distributor
Faulty Acceleration
Improper fuel pump strokeRemove pump and reset pump
stroke
Incorrect ignition timingReset ignition timing, See
TUNE-UP
Le a kin g va l ve sReplace valves, See ENGINES
Worn fuel pump diaphragm or pistonReplace diaphragm or piston
In t ake Backfire
Improper ignition timingReset ignition timing, See
TUNE-UP
Faulty accelerator pump dischargeReplace accelerator pump
Improper choke operationCheck choke and adjust as
required
Defective EGR valveReplace EGR valve
Fuel mixture too leanReset air/fuel mixture, See
TUNE-UP
Choke valve initial clearance too largeReset choke valve initial
clearance
Exhaust Backfire
Vacuum leakInspect and repair vacuum
system
Faulty vacuum diverter valveReplace vacuum diverter valve
Faulty choke operationCheck choke and adjust as
required
Exhaust system leakrepair exhaust system leak
Engine Detonation
Ignition timing too far advancedReset ignition timing, See
TUNE-UP
Faulty ignition systemCheck ignition timing, See
TUNE-UP
Spark plugs loose or faultyRetighten or replace plugs
Fuel delivery system cloggedInspect lines, pump and filter
fo r cl o g
EGR valve inoperativeReplace EGR valve
PCV system inoperativeInspect and/or replace hoses
or valve
Vacuum leaksCheck vacuum system and
repair leaks
Excessive combustion chamber depositsRemove built-up deposits
Leaking, sticking or broken valvesInspect and/or replace valves
External Oil Leakage
Fuel pump improperly seated or worn gasketRemove pump, replace gasket
and seat properly
Oil pan gasket broken or pan bentStraighten pan and replace
ga ske t
Timing chain cover gasket brokenReplace timing chain cover
ga ske t
Rear main oil seal wornReplace rear main oil seal
Oil pan drain plug not seated properlyRemove and reinstall drain
plug
Camshaft bearing drain hole blockedRemove restriction
Oil pressure sending switch leakingRemove and reinstall sending
switch
Excessive Oil Consumption
Worn valve stems or guidesReplace stems or guides, See
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Page 224 of 454

ENGINES
Valve "O" ring seals damagedReplace "O" ring seals, See
ENGINES
Plugged oil drain back holesRemove restrictions
Improper PCV valve operationReplace PCV valve
Engine oil level too highRemove excess oil
Engine oil too thinReplace thicker oil
Valve stem oil deflectors damagedReplace oil deflectors
Incorrect piston ringsReplace piston rings, See
ENGINES
Piston ring gaps not staggeredReinstall piston rings, See
ENGINES
Insufficient piston ring tensionReplace rings, See ENGINES
Piston ring grooves or oil returnslots clogged Replace piston
rings, See ENGINES
Piston rings sticking in groovesReplace piston rings, See
ENGINES
Piston ring grooves excessively wornReplace piston and rings, See
ENGINES
Compression rings installed upside downReplace compression rings
correctly, See ENGINES
Worn or scored cylinder wallsRebore cylinders or replace
block
Mismatched oil ring expander and railReplace oil ring expander and
rail, See ENGINES
Intake gasket dowels too longReplace intake gasket dowels
Excessive main or connecting rod bearing clearanceReplace main or connecting
rod bearings, See ENGINES
No Oil Pressure
Low oil levelAdd oil to proper level
Oil pressure sender or gauge brokenReplace sender or gauge
Oil pump malfunctionRemove and overhaul oil
pump, See ENGINES
Oil pressure relief valve stickingR e mo ve a n d r e in st a l l va l ve
Oil pump passages blockedOverhaul oil pump, See
ENGINES
Oil pickup screen or tube blockedRemove restriction
Loose oil inlet tubeTighten oil inlet tube
Loose camshaft bearingsReplace camshaft bearings,
See ENGINES
Internal leakage at oil passagesReplace block or cylinder
head
Low Oil Pressure
Low engine oil levelAdd oil to proper level
Engine oil too thinRemove and replace with
thicker oil
Excessive oil pump clearanceReduce oil pump clearance,
See ENGINES
Oil pickup tube or screen blockedRemove restrictions
Main, rod or cam bearing clearance excessiveReplace bearing to reduce
clearance, See ENGINES
High Oil Pressure
Improper grade of oilReplace with proper oil
Oil pressure relief valve stuck closedEliminate binding
Oil pressure sender or gauge faultyReplace sender or gauge
Noisy Main Bearings
Inadequate oil supplyCheck oil delivery to main
bearings
Excessive main bearing clearanceReplace main bearings, See
ENGINES
Excessive crankshaft end playReplace crankshaft, See
ENGINES
Loose flywheel or torque converterTighten attaching bolts
Loose or damaged vibration damperTighten or replace vibration
damper
Crankshaft journals out-of-roundRe-grind crankshaft journals
Excessive belt tensionLoosen belt tension
Noisy Connecting Rods
Excessive bearing clearance or missing bearingReplace bearing, See
ENGINES
Crankshaft rod journal out-of-roundRe-grind crankshaft journal
Misaligned connecting rod or capRemove rod or cap and realign
Incorrectly tightened rod boltsRemove and re-tighten rod
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bolts
Noisy Pistons and Rings
Excessive piston-to-bore clearanceInstall larger pistons, See
ENGINES
Bore tapered or out-of-roundRebore block
Piston ring brokenReplace piston rings, See
ENGINES
Piston pin loose or seizedReplace piston pin, See
ENGINES
Connecting rods misalignedRealign connecting rods
Ring side clearance too loose or tightReplace with larger or smaller
rings
Carbon build-up on pistonRemove carbon
Noisy Valve Train
Worn or bent push rodsReplace push rods, See
ENGINES
Worn rocker arms or bridged pivotsReplace push rods, See
ENGINES
Dirt or chips in valve liftersRemove lifters and remove
dirt/chips
Excessive valve lifter leak-downReplace valve lifters, See
ENGINES
Valve lifter face wornReplace valve lifters, See
ENGINES
Broken or cocked valve springsReplace or reposition springs
Too much valve stem-to-guide clearanceReplace valve guides, See
ENGINES
Valve bentReplace valve, See ENGINES
Loose rocker armsRetighten rocker arms, See
ENGINES
Excessive valve seat run-outReface valve seats, See
ENGINES
Missing valve lockInstall new valve lock
Excessively worn camshaft lobesReplace camshaft, See
ENGINES
Plugged valve lifter oil holesEliminate restriction or
replace lifter
Faulty valve lifter check ballReplace lifter check ball, See
ENGINES
Rocker arm nut installed upside downRemove and reinstall correctly
Valve lifter incorrect for engineRemove and replace valve
lifters
Faulty push rod seat or lifter plungerReplace plunger or push rod
Noisy Valves
Improper valve lashRe-adjust valve lash, See
ENGINES
Worn or dirty valve liftersClean and/or replace lifters
Wo r n va l ve gu id e sReplace valve guides, See
ENGINES
Excessive valve seat or face run-outReface seats or valve face
Worn camshaft lobesReplace camshaft, See
ENGINES
Loose rocker arm studsRe-tighten rocker arm studs,
See ENGINES
Bent push rodsReplace push rods, See
ENGINES
Broken valve springsReplace valve springs, See
ENGINES
Burned,Sticking or Broken Valves
Weak valve springs or warped valvesReplace valves and/or springs,
See ENGINES
Improper lifter clearanceRe-adjust clearance or replace
lifters
Worn guides or improper guide clearanceReplace valve guides, See
ENGINES
Out-of-round valve seats or improper seat widthRe-grind valve seats
Gum deposits on valve stems, seats or guideRemove deposits
Improper spark timingRe-adjust spark timing
Broken Pistons/Rings
Undersize pistonsReplace with larger pistons,
See ENGINES
Wrong piston ringsReplace with correct rings,
See ENGINES
Out-of-round cylinder boreRe-bore cylinder bore
Page 12 of 36 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - GENERAL INFORMATION Trouble Shooting - Basic Procedures
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