lock FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Repair Manual

6Use a screwdriver or suitable lever to prise
free the grease retainer (seal) from the hub
bore, but take care not to damage the bore
surface (see illustration) .
7 Remove the inner and outer bearing cones
from the bore of the hub (see illustration).
8 To remove the bearing cups from the hub,
drive them out using a suitable punch. Drive
each cup from its respective end by tapping it
alternately at diametrically-opposed points
(see illustration) . Do not allow the cups to tilt
in the bore, or the surfaces may become
burred and prevent the new bearings from
seating correctly as they are fitted.
9 Clean the bore and spindle thoroughly
before reassembly.
10 To reassemble, tap the new bearing cups
into position in the hub, using a piece of
tubing slightly smaller in its outside diameter
than that of the bearing cup. Ensure that the
cups are squarely inserted and abut their
respective shoulders in the hub.
11 Pack the inner bearing cone with the
specified grease, and insert it into its cup in
the hub.
12 To fit the grease retainer (seal), first
lubricate its inner lip to ease installation, then
lightly tap the seal into position using a block
of wood. Ensure that the seal is correctly
orientated.
13 Pack the outer bearing cone with the
specified grease, and fit it into position in its
cup.
14 The brake drum/hub can now be refitted
to the axle spindle. Before fitting into position,
first check that the brake surface area in
the drum is free of grease and oil. Locate the
drum/hub into position, then fit the retaining
nut. Tighten it to the specified torque setting
whilst simultaneously rotating the assembly to
ensure that the bearings are correctly seated.
15 Carefully tap the new hub grease cap into
position in a progressive manner around its
outer edge until it is fully fitted.
16 Refit the rubber blanking plug to the brake
backplate, and firmly apply the footbrake a
few times to take up the brake adjustment.
Check that the rear brakes do not bind when
the brakes are released. Refit the roadwheel,
lower the vehicle and then tighten the
retaining nuts to the specified torque setting.10 Rear strut (all models except Courier) - removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
2 On ABS-equipped models, unscrew the
retaining nuts and detach the load-
apportioning valve connecting links from the
axle beam.
3 Support the relevant trailing arm of the axle
assembly and unscrew and remove the
securing bolt from the strut-to-axle mounting
(see illustration) .
4 Prise free the protective cap from the top of
the strut mounting, located in the luggage
compartment (see illustration) .
5 Unscrew and remove the two retaining nuts
to detach the strut from its upper mounting.
Do not unscrew the central upper mounting
bolt.
6 Lower the trailing arm slightly to allow the
lower suspension strut mounting to clear its
axle location, and withdraw the suspension
strut from the vehicle.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but note the following special
points: a)
With the suspension strut located to its
upper mounting, tighten the retaining nuts
to the specified torque.
b) When reconnecting the suspension strut
to the lower mounting, hand-tighten the
retaining bolt, then lower the vehicle so
that it is standing on its wheels before
fully tightening the bolt to its specified
torque.
11 Rear strut (all models except
Courier) - dismantling,
examination and reassembly
4
Warning: Before attempting to
dismantle the suspension strut,
a suitable tool to hold the coil
spring in compression must be
obtained. Adjustable coil spring
compressors which can be positively
secured to the spring coils are readily
available, and are recommended for this
operation. Any attempt to dismantle the
strut without such a tool is likely to result
in damage or personal injury.
Dismantling
1 With the strut removed from the vehicle,
clean away all external dirt, then secure it in a
vice.
2 Fit the spring compressor tool (ensuring
that it is fully engaged) and compress the coil
spring until all tension is relieved from the
upper mounting.
Suspension and steering 10•9
9.8 Removing bearing cups9.7 Removing a bearing cone from the hub bore9.6 Prise the grease retainer from the hubbore
10.4 Suspension strut top-mount nuts (A),
and spring retaining through-bolt fixing (B)10.3 Lower suspension strut-to-axle mounting bolt
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8Turn the steering wheel as necessary so
that one of the air bag module retaining bolts
becomes accessible from the rear of the
steering wheel. Undo the bolt, then turn
the steering wheel again until the second bolt
is accessible. Undo this bolt also.
9 Withdraw the air bag module from the
steering wheel far enough to access the
wiring multi-plug. Some force may be needed
to free the module from the additional steering
wheel spoke retainers.
10 Disconnect the multi-plug from the rear of
the module, and remove the module from the
vehicle. Warning: Position the air bag
module in a safe place, with the
mechanism facing downwards
as a precaution against
accidental operation.
11 Release the wiring harness from the side
of the steering column and disconnect the air
bag module wiring multi-plug (yellow lead).
12 Where applicable, undo the single screw
and withdraw the Passive Anti-Theft System
(PATS) transceiver from the ignition
switch/steering lock barrel (see illustration).
13 Turn the steering wheel so that the
roadwheels are in the straight-ahead position,
then remove the ignition key to lock the
steering.
14 Unscrew the retaining bolt from the centre
of the steering wheel, then insert the ignition key and turn it to position “I”. Grip the steering
wheel each side, then pull and withdraw it
from the column shaft.
Refitting
All models
15
Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Make sure that the wheel is centralised, as
noted on removal and turn the ignition key so
that it is in position “I” (steering unlocked).
Tighten the retaining bolt to the specified
torque setting.
20 Steering column (manual steering) -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
Models without air bag
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the manual choke control knob,
where fitted, by depressing the lug securing it,
and pulling it from its shaft (see illustration).
The lug is found on the side of the control
knob shank.
3 Remove the lower steering column shroud
by undoing its four retaining screws, then
detach the choke warning light switch/pull
control assembly from the lower shroud by
unscrewing its retaining collar (bayonet-type fixing), using a suitable tool to locate in the
collar recesses
(see illustration) .
4 Remove the two screws securing the upper
steering column shroud from above, and the
two screws securing it from below, the latter
accessible only with the lower shroud
removed.
5 Disconnect the wiring multi-plugs from the
steering column multi-function switch
assembly, then remove the single screw
securing the multi-function switch assembly
to the steering column lock housing. This
retaining screw is located directly forward of
the hazard warning light switch (see
illustration) . Remove the multi-function
switch assembly.
6 Disconnect the ignition switch wiring multi-
plug connector and remove the loom plate
from its location on the left-hand side of the
steering column (see illustration) .
7 Unclip the bonnet release cable abutment
from its location in the steering column lock
housing, then detach the cable from the
bonnet release lever by aligning the cable
core with the slot on the release lever and
withdrawing it through that slot. Detach the
spring from the release lever arms, then
disengage the arms from the steering column
lock housing and remove the bonnet release
lever (see illustration) .
Suspension and steering 10•13
20.3 Removing the manual choke control
assembly retaining collar20.2 Manual choke control knob and its locating lug (arrowed)19.12 Undo the screw (arrowed) and
withdraw the Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) transceiver from the ignition switch/steering lock barrel
20.7 Bonnet release lever and cable
A Bonnet release cable abutment
B Bonnet release cable slot on release lever
C Bonnet release lever return spring
D Steering column to mounting bracket retaining nuts
20.6 Removing ignition loom plate fromsteering column lock housing (steering
wheel removed for clarity)20.5 Steering column multi-function
switch retaining screw (arrowed) (steering
wheel removed for clarity)
10
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8Remove the nuts securing the steering
column mounting bracket.
9 Remove the pinch-bolt securing the lower
steering shaft universal joint to the steering
rack pinion splined shaft, located at the rear of
the engine compartment (see illustration),
and separate the two as far as possible.
10 Pull the steering column assembly from its
bulkhead location and withdraw it from the
vehicle, ensuring that the lower steering shaft
universal joint and the steering rack pinion
splined shaft separate fully. The effort
required to remove the column assembly may
be quite high, due to the close tolerance of
the lower column tube support bush in its
location.
Models with air bag
Warning: Handle the air bag
with extreme care as a
precaution against personal
injury, and always hold it with
the cover facing away from your body. If in
doubt concerning any proposed work
involving the air bag or its control circuitry,
consult a Ford dealer or other qualified
specialist.
11 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
Warning: Before proceeding,
wait a minimum of 15 minutes,
as a precaution against
accidental firing of the air bag.
This period ensures that any stored energy
in the back-up capacitor is dissipated.
12 Undo the screws, and remove the
steering column lower shroud.
13 Undo the two external screws and the two
internal screws and remove the steering
column upper shroud.
14 Turn the steering wheel as necessary so
that one of the air bag module retaining bolts
becomes accessible from the rear of the
steering wheel. Undo the bolt, then turn
the steering wheel again until the second bolt
is accessible. Undo this bolt also.
15 Withdraw the air bag module from the
steering wheel far enough to access the
wiring multi-plug. Some force may be needed
to free the module from the additional steering
wheel spoke retainers. 16
Disconnect the multi-plug from the rear of
the module, and remove the module from the
vehicle. Warning: Position the air bag
module in a safe place, with the
mechanism facing downwards
as a precaution against
accidental operation.
17 Turn the steering wheel so that the
roadwheels are in the straight-ahead position,
then remove the ignition key to lock the
steering.
18 Release the wiring harness from the side
of the steering column and disconnect the air
bag module wiring multi-plug (yellow lead).
19 Disconnect the wiring multi-plugs from
the steering column multi-function switch
assembly.
20 Disconnect the ignition switch wiring
multi-plug connector and remove the loom
plate from its location on the left-hand side of
the steering column.
21 Where applicable, undo the single screw
and withdraw the Passive Anti-Theft System
(PATS) transceiver from the ignition
switch/steering lock barrel (see illus-
tration 19.12) .
22 Unclip the bonnet release cable abutment
from its location in the steering column lock
housing, then detach the cable from the
bonnet release lever by aligning the cable
core with the slot on the release lever and
withdrawing it through that slot. Detach the
spring from the release lever arms, then
disengage the arms from the steering column
lock housing and remove the bonnet release
lever.
23 Remove the nuts securing the steering
column mounting bracket.
24 Remove the pinch-bolt securing the lower
steering shaft universal joint to the steering
rack pinion splined shaft, located at the rear of
the engine compartment, and separate the
two as far as possible.
25 Pull the steering column assembly from its bulkhead location and withdraw it from the
vehicle, ensuring that the lower steering shaft
universal joint and the steering rack pinion
splined shaft separate fully. The effort
required to remove the column assembly may
be quite high, due to the close tolerance of
the lower column tube support bush in its
location.
Refitting
All models
26
Ensure that the roadwheels are in the
straight-ahead position. With the help of an
assistant, insert the steering column assembly
into the vehicle so that the lower steering
shaft universal joint and the pinion splined
shaft on the steering rack locate correctly,
with the steering wheel centralized. Loosely
refit the pinch-bolt to secure. Ensure that the
steering shaft bulkhead seal seats correctly in
its location.
27 With the column assembly located loosely
in position, refit the nuts securing it to its
mounting bracket, taking care to ensure that
the lower column tube support bush seats
correctly as the nuts are tightened to the
specified torque.
28 Refit the steering column ancillary
components, reversing the removal procedure
given in paragraphs 2 to 7 (for models without
air bag) or 12 to 22 (for models with air bag).
29 Tighten the pinch-bolt securing the lower
steering shaft universal joint to the pinion
splined shaft to the specified torque. Ensure
that the pinch-bolt sits in the annular groove
on the pinion splined shaft (see illustration).
30 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
21 Steering column (power
steering) -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
Warning: Handle the air bag
with extreme care as a
precaution against personal
injury, and always hold it with
the cover facing away from your body. If in
doubt concerning any proposed work
involving the air bag or its control circuitry,
consult a Ford dealer or other qualified
specialist.
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). Warning: Before proceeding,
wait a minimum of 15 minutes,
as a precaution against
accidental firing of the air bag.
This period ensures that any stored energy
in the back-up capacitor is dissipated.
2 Undo the screws, and remove the steering
column lower shroud.
3 Undo the two external screws and the two
internal screws and remove the steering
column upper shroud.
4 Turn the steering wheel as necessary so
10•14 Suspension and steering
20.29 Steering rack-to-column
engagement
A Steering rack pinion splined shaft
B Annular groove to ensure correct location of pinch-bolt
C Pinch-bolt
D Lower steering shaft universal joint
20.9 Pinch-bolt securing lower steering
shaft universal joint to pinion splined shaft (arrowed)
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that one of the air bag module retaining bolts
becomes accessible from the rear of the
steering wheel. Undo the bolt, then turn
the steering wheel again until the second bolt
is accessible. Undo this bolt also.
5Withdraw the air bag module from the
steering wheel far enough to access the
wiring multi-plug. Some force may be needed
to free the module from the additional steering
wheel spoke retainers.
6 Disconnect the multi-plug from the rear of
the module, and remove the module from the
vehicle. Warning: Position the air bag
module in a safe place, with the
mechanism facing downwards
as a precaution against
accidental operation.
7 Turn the steering wheel so that the
roadwheels are in the straight-ahead position,
then remove the ignition key to lock the
steering.
8 Release the wiring harness from the side of
the steering column and disconnect the air
bag module wiring multi-plug (yellow lead).
9 Disconnect the wiring multi-plugs from the
steering column multi-function switch
assembly.
10 Disconnect the ignition switch wiring
multi-plug connector and remove the loom
plate from its location on the left-hand side of
the steering column.
11 Undo the single screw and withdraw the
Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) transceiver
from the ignition switch/steering lock barrel
(see illustration 19.12) .
12 Unclip the bonnet release cable abutment
from its location in the steering column lock
housing, then detach the cable from the
bonnet release lever by aligning the cable
core with the slot on the release lever and
withdrawing it through that slot. Detach the
spring from the release lever arms, then
disengage the arms from the steering column
lock housing and remove the bonnet release
lever.
13 Remove the C-clip at the base of the
steering column shaft, below the universal
joint.
14 Remove the nuts securing the steering
column mounting bracket.
15 Pull the steering column assembly from its
bulkhead location and withdraw it from the
vehicle, ensuring that the steering column
shaft and flexible coupling separate fully.
Refitting
16 Ensure that the roadwheels are in the
straight-ahead position and the steering
column is locked. With the help of an
assistant, insert the steering column assembly
into the vehicle so that the steering column
shaft engages with the flexible coupling.
17 Refit the steering column shaft C-clip.
18 With the column assembly located loosely
in position, refit and tighten the nuts securing
it to its mounting bracket.
19 Refit the steering column ancillary components, reversing the removal procedure
given in paragraphs 2 to 12.
20
Reconnect the battery negative lead.
22 Steering gear rubber gaiters
- renewal
3
1Remove the track rod end balljoint as
described in Section 28.
2 Remove the one-piece undertray where
fitted, by turning its bayonet-type fasteners,
and on XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember as described in
Section 7.
3 Count the number of exposed threads
visible, from the end of the track rod to the
track rod end balljoint locknut, and record this
figure. Now unscrew the locknut from the
track rod.
4 Release the clip(s), and slide the gaiter off
the rack-and-pinion housing and track rod.
5 Scrape off all grease from the old gaiter,
and apply to the track rod inner joint. Wipe
clean the seating areas on the rack-and-
pinion housing and track rod.
6 Slide the new gaiter onto the housing and
track rod, and secure with the retaining clips.
Ensure that the narrow neck locates correctly
in the track rod groove.
7 Screw the track rod end balljoint locknut
back onto the track rod until the same number
of threads, as counted on removal, are visible.
8 Refit the track rod end balljoint as
described in Section 28.
9 Refit the front suspension crossmember
and one-piece undertray, as applicable.
23 Steering gear (manual steering) -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheels.
3 Remove the one-piece undertray where
fitted, by turning its bayonet-type fasteners,
and on XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember as described in
Section 7.
4 Remove the pinch-bolt securing the pinion
splined shaft to the lower steering shaft
universal joints, located at the rear of the
engine compartment.
5 Separate the track rod end balljoints from
the steering arms, as described in Section 28.
6 Remove the lower brake servo support
bracket bolt.
7 Remove the other bolt securing the steering
rack assembly to the bulkhead, then withdraw
it from the right-hand side of the vehicle, taking care to disengage the pinion splined
shaft from the lower steering shaft universal
joint as the assembly is moved.
Refitting
8
Centralize the rack and steering wheel, then
engage the pinion splined shaft to the lower
steering shaft universal joint.
9 Refit the steering rack assembly mounting
bolts to the bulkhead and tighten to the
specified torque, ensuring that the servo
support bracket is correctly held.
10 Refit the pinion splined shaft-to-lower
steering shaft universal joint pinch-bolt and
nut and tighten to the specified torque,
ensuring that the pinch-bolt locates to the
annular groove as the pinion splined shaft.
11 Refit the track rod end balljoints to the
steering arms, as detailed in Section 28. As
long as the track rod end-to-track rod relative
positions have not been disturbed, it will not
be necessary to reset the front wheel
alignment.
12 Refit the front suspension crossmember
and one-piece undertray, as applicable.
13 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the
vehicle to the ground. Tighten the roadwheel
nuts to the specified torque with the vehicle
on its wheels.
24 Steering gear (power steering) -
removal and refitting
4
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheels.
3 Remove the one-piece undertray where
fitted, by turning its bayonet-type fasteners,
and on XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember as described in
Section 7.
4 Remove the pinch-bolt securing the pinion
splined shaft to the lower steering shaft
flexible coupling, located at the rear of the
engine compartment.
5 Undo the retaining screws, and detach the
clips securing the power steering hydraulic
pressure pipes to the steering gear.
6 Position a suitable container under the
hydraulic pipe connections to the steering
gear. Unscrew the pipe unions, then detach
the pipes from the valve body. Withdraw the
pipes from the steering gear, and drain the
hydraulic fluid into the container.
7 Plug the exposed ends of the hydraulic line
connections, to prevent the ingress of dirt and
further fluid loss. Note that new O-ring seals
will be needed for the pressure and return
hose connections when reconnecting.
8 Slacken the upper bolts securing the
steering gear support brackets. On left-hand
Suspension and steering 10•15
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Refitting
All models
38Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque. Remove the plugs from the
disconnected pipes, hoses and unions
and ensure that the pipes are located
correctly so that they do not foul any
surrounding components.
b) Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1.
c) Where drained, refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1.
d) Refit or reconnect any additional
components removed for access as
described in the relevant Sections and
Chapters of this manual.
e) On completion, bleed the power steering
hydraulic system as described in Section
27. Check for any signs of fluid leakage
from the system hoses and connections.
26 Power steering fluid cooler -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Position a suitable container beneath the
power steering fluid cooler hose connections,
then disconnect the hoses at the quick-fit
couplings on the fluid cooler. Allow the fluid to
drain from the hose and reservoir into the
container.
3 Plug the exposed ends of the hose and the
reservoir, to prevent the ingress of dirt and
excessive fluid loss.
4 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the bonnet
lock assembly and the front bumper.
5 Undo the bolts securing the cooler side
support bracket and the bonnet lock stay, and
remove the fluid cooler and bonnet lock stay
as an assembly.
6 Undo the two bolts and remove the stay
from the fluid cooler.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. On
completion, bleed the power steering
hydraulic system as described in Section 27.
27 Power steering hydraulic system - bleeding
2
1Following any operation in which the power
steering fluid lines have been disconnected,
the power steering system must be bled to
remove any trapped air.
2 With the front wheel in the straight-ahead
position, check the power steering fluid level
in the reservoir and, if low, top-up with fresh fluid to the “MAX” or “MAX COLD” level mark.
Pour the fluid slowly to prevent air bubbles
forming, and use only the specified fluid (refer
to
“Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures” ).
3 Start the engine and allow it to idle. Check
the hoses and connections for leaks.
4 Stop the engine and recheck the fluid level.
Add more, if necessary, up to the “MAX” or
“MAX COLD” level mark.
5 Start the engine again, allow it to idle, then
bleed the system by slowly moving the
steering from lock-to-lock several times. This
should purge the system of all internal air.
However, if air remains in the system
(indicated by the steering operation being very
noisy), leave the vehicle overnight and repeat
the procedure again the next day.
6 If air still remains in the system, it may be
necessary to resort to the Ford method of
bleeding, which uses a vacuum pump and a
modified reservoir filler cap to which the pump
can be connected. Turn the steering to the
right until it is near the stop, then fit the
vacuum pump to the fluid reservoir, and apply
0.51 bars of vacuum. Maintain the vacuum for
a minimum of 5 minutes, then repeat
the procedure with the steering turned to the
left.
7 Keep the fluid level topped-up throughout
the bleeding procedure; note that the fluid
temperature increases, the level will rise.
8 On completion, switch the engine off, and
return the wheels to the straight-ahead
position.
28 Track rod end balljoint -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the appropriate front roadwheel.
2 Using a suitable spanner, slacken the track
rod end balljoint locknut on the track rod by a
quarter of a turn only (see illustration). Holdthe balljoint stationary with another spanner
engaged with the flats at its inner end to
prevent it from turning.
3
Extract the split pin, then loosen off the
retaining nut. If the balljoint is to be renewed,
the nut can be fully removed. If the existing
balljoint is to be reconnected, the nut should
be slackened off a couple of turns only at first,
and left in position to protect the joint threads
as the joint is separated from the spindle
carrier. To release the tapered shank of the
joint from the spindle carrier, use a balljoint
separator tool as shown (see illustration). If
the joint is to be re-used, take care not to
damage the rubber dust cover when using a
separator tool.
4 Unscrew the balljoint from the track rod,
counting the number of turns necessary to
remove it.
Refitting
5 Screw the balljoint into the track rod the
number of turns noted during removal until the
balljoint just contacts the locknut. Now tighten
the locknut while holding the balljoint.
6 Engage the shank of the balljoint with the
spindle carrier arm, and refit the retaining nut.
Tighten the nut to the specified torque and
secure with a new split pin.
7 Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
8 Finally, have the front wheel toe setting
checked (see Section 29).
29 Wheel alignment and steering angles - general
information
4
General
1 A car’s steering and suspension geometry
is defined in four basic settings - all angles
are expressed in degrees (toe settings are
also expressed as a measurement); the
relevant settings are camber, castor, steering
axis inclination, and toe-setting. With the
exception of front wheel toe-setting, none of
these settings are adjustable.
Suspension and steering 10•17
28.3 Balljoint separator tool in position.
Note that the nut should be left loosely in position to protect the thread for re-use28.2 Track rod end balljoint showing the locknut (A) retaining flats (B) and the
balljoint-to-spindle carrier arm retaining
nut and split pin (C)
10
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Front wheel toe setting -
checking and adjustment
2Due to the special measuring equipment
necessary to accurately check the wheel
alignment, and the skill required to use it
properly, checking and adjustment is best left
to a Ford dealer or similar expert. Note that
most tyre-fitting shops now possess
sophisticated checking equipment. The
following is provided as a guide, should the
owner decide to carry out a DIY check.
3 The front wheel toe setting is checked by
measuring the distance between the front and
rear inside edges of the roadwheel rims.
Proprietary toe measurement gauges are
available from motor accessory shops.
Adjustment is made by screwing the track
rods in or out of their track rod end balljoints,
to alter the effective length of the track rod
assemblies.
4 For accurate checking, the vehicle must
be at the kerb weight, ie unladen and with a
full tank of fuel.
5 Before starting work, check the tyre
pressures and tread wear, the condition of the
hub bearings, the steering wheel free play,
and the condition of the front suspension
components (see Chapter 1). Correct any
faults found.
6 Park the vehicle on level ground, check that
the front roadwheels are in the straight-ahead
position, then rock the rear and front ends to settle the suspension. Release the handbrake,
and roll the vehicle backwards 1 metre, then
forwards again, to relieve any stresses in the
steering and suspension components.
7
Measure the distance between the front
edges of the wheel rims and the rear edges of
the rims. Subtract the smallest measurement
from the largest, and check that the result is
within the specified range.
8 If adjustment is necessary, apply the
handbrake, then jack up the front of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Turn the
steering wheel onto full-left lock, and record
the number of exposed threads on the right-
hand track rod. Now turn the steering onto
full-right lock, and record the number of
threads on the left-hand side. If there are the
same number of threads visible on both sides,
then subsequent adjustment should be made
equally on both sides. If there are more
threads visible on one side than the other, it
will be necessary to compensate for this
during adjustment. Note:It is most important
that after adjustment, the same number of
threads are visible on each track rod.
9 First clean the track rod end; if they are
corroded, apply penetrating fluid before
starting adjustment. Release the rubber gaiter
outboard clips (where necessary), and peel
back the gaiter; apply a smear of grease to
the inside of the gaiter, so that both are free, and will not be twisted or strained as their
respective track rods are rotated.
10
Use a straight-edge and a scriber or
similar to mark the relationship of each track
rod to its track rod end balljoint, then, holding
each track rod in turn, unscrew its locknut
fully.
11 Alter the length of the track rods, bearing
in mind the note made in paragraph 8. Screw
them into or out of the track rod end balljoints,
rotating the track rods using a self-grip
wrench. Shortening the track rods (screwing
them into their track rod end balljoints) will
reduce toe-in/increase toe-out.
12 When the setting is correct, hold the track
rods and securely tighten the track rod end
balljoint locknuts. Count the exposed threads
to check the length of both track rods. If they
are not the same, then the adjustment has not
been made equally, and problems will be
encountered with tyre scrubbing in turns;
also, the steering wheel spokes will no longer
be horizontal when the wheels are in the
straight-ahead position.
13 If the track rod lengths are the same, lower
the vehicle to the ground and re-check the
toe setting; re-adjust if necessary. When the
setting is correct, securely tighten the track rod
end balljoint locknuts. Ensure that the rubber
gaiters are seated correctly, and are not
twisted or strained, and secure them in position
with new retaining clips (where necessary).
10•18 Suspension and steering
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11
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Front seat slide mechanism-to-floor mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 32 18 to 24
Rear seat backrest hinge to backrest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.7 to 4.6 2.7 to 3.4
Rear seat backrest hinge to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 25 15 to 18
Rear seat belt anchors and stalks to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 45 18 to 34
Rear seat belt retractor assembly to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 45 18 to 34
Front seat belt stalks to floorpan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 45 18 to 34
Front seat belt lower anchor bolt to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 45 18 to 34
Front seat belt lower anchor slide bar bolt to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 45 18 to 34
Front seat belt retractor to B-pillar bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 45 18 to 34
Front seat belt upper anchor bolt to B-pillar (non-adjustable type) . . . . 25 to 45 18 to 34
Front seat belt upper anchor adjuster plate-to-B-pillar bolts . . . . . . . . . 19 to 28 14 to 22
Front seat belt upper anchor bolt to adjuster slide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 45 18 to 34
Bonnet hinge-to-bonnet bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5 to 12 6.5 to 9
Bonnet latch retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 12 6 to 9
Tailgate hinge-to-tailgate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5 to 12 6.5 to 9
Tailgate latch retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 12 6 to 9
Rear door lower hinge cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5 to 12 6.5 to 9
Rear door latch retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5 to 12 6.5 to 9
Front and rear bumper retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 12 6 to 9
Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Body adhesive emblems - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Body trim mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Bonnet latch - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Bonnet release mechanism - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Bumper and rear quarter mouldings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Door aperture weatherstrip - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Door window glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Door window regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Door, tailgate and bonnet check and lubrication . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Exterior mirror and glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Facia - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Front seat and slide assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Full-length sunroof - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1
Interior mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Interior trim panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Maintenance - bodywork and underframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Maintenance - upholstery and carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Parcel shelf support/loudspeaker housing - removal and refitting . . 43 Passenger grab handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Rear door inner trim panels (Courier models) - removal and refitting . . 29
Rear door lock, catches and handles (Courier models) -
removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Rear doors (Courier models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Rear seat - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chap\
ter 1
Seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Side door inner trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . 21
Side door lock, lock cylinder and handles - removal and refitting . . 22
Side doors - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Side window glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Sill extension moulding - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Sunroof panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Sunroof panel seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Sunroof weatherseal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Tailgate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Tailgate inner trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Tailgate lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Tailgate spoiler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Tailgate support strut - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Wheelarch liners - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Wheelarch mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Wind deflector/radiator grille slat - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 15
Windscreen and tailgate window glass - removal and refitting . . . . 34
11•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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1 General information
The bodyshell and underframe on all
models is of all-steel welded construction,
incorporating progressive crumple zones at
the front and rear, and a rigid centre safety
cell. The body styles available include three-
door, five-door, Van and Courier
configurations. A multi-stage anti-corrosion process is
applied to all new vehicles. This includes zinc
phosphating on some panels, the injection of
wax into boxed sections, and a wax and PVC
coating applied to the underbody for its
protection. Inertia reel seat belts are fitted to all
models, and from the 1994 model year
onwards, the front seat belt stalks are
mounted on automatic mechanical tensioners
(also known as “grabbers”). In the event of a
serious front impact, a spring mass sensor
releases a coil spring which pulls the stalk
buckle downwards and tensions the seat belt.
It is not possible to reset the tensioner once
fired, and it must therefore be renewed. Central locking is a standard or optional
fitment on all models. Where double-locking is
also fitted, the lock mechanism is
disconnected (when the system is in use) from
the interior door handles, making it impossible
to open any of the doors or the tailgate from
inside the vehicle. This means that, even if a
thief should break a side window, it will not be
possible to open the door using the interior
handle.
2 Maintenance -
bodywork and underframe
1
The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts
of the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment. The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud, which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Oddly enough,
the best time to clean the underframe and
wheel arches is in wet weather, when the mud
is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-
based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the
underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,
engine compartment included, so that a
thorough inspection can be carried out to see
what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at
many garages, and is necessary for the
removal of the accumulation of oily grime,
which sometimes is allowed to become thick
in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brush-
applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
Note that these methods should not be used
on vehicles with wax-based underbody
protective coating, or the coating will be
removed. Such vehicles should be inspected
annually, preferably just prior to Winter, when
the underbody should be washed down, and
any damage to the wax coating repaired.
Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be
applied. It would also be worth considering
the use of such wax-based protection for
injection into door panels, sills, box sections,
etc, as an additional safeguard against rust
damage, where such protection is not
provided by the vehicle manufacturer. After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish
will give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen
has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to
avoid damage to the finish. Always check that
the door and ventilator opening drain holes
and pipes are completely clear, so that water
can be drained out .Brightwork should be
treated in the same way as paintwork.
Windscreens and windows can be kept clear
of the smeary film which often appears, by the
use of proprietary glass cleaner. Never use
any form of wax or other body or chromium
polish on glass.
3 Maintenance -
upholstery and carpets
1
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the
material. Do not forget to keep the headlining
clean in the same way as the upholstery.
When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,
do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.
Excessive damp could get into the seams and
padded interior, causing stains, offensive
odours or even rot.
Note
:
If the inside of the vehicle gets wet
accidentally, it is worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry it out properly, particularly
where carpets are involved .
Warning: Do not leave oil or
electric heaters inside the
vehicle for this purpose.
4 Minor body damage-
repair
3
Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water. Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish. Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface
of the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
11•2 Bodywork and fittings
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almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being
“belled-out”.Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers. The next stage of the repair is the removal
of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.
To complete the repair, see the Section on
filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes
in bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area,
and from an inch or so of the surrounding
“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide
whether to renew the whole panel (if this is
possible) or to repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think, and it is often quicker and more
satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt
to repair large areas of corrosion. Remove all fittings from the affected area,
except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in order to create a slight depression for the filler
paste.
Wire-brush the affected area to remove the
powdery rust from the surface of the
remaining metal. Paint the affected area with
rust-inhibiting paint, if the back of the rusted
area is accessible, treat this also. Before filling can take place, it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape. Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery. Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs - filling and
respraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs. Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair.
A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be found invaluable for imparting a smooth
and well-contoured finish to the surface of the
filler. Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute
intervals, until the level of the filler is just
proud of the surrounding bodywork. Once the filler has hardened, the excess
can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage, the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone. Spray the whole area with a light coat of
primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations. Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint. Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
11
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
If bodystopper is used, it can be mixed with cellulose
thinners to form a really thin
paste which is ideal for
filling small holes.
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4Pull the latch end of the cable into the
engine compartment, noting cable routing and
clips fitted. Remove the cable from its clips.
5 Detach the cable from its release lever on
the steering column, by aligning the cable
core with the slot on the release lever and
withdrawing the end fixing. Detach the cable
from its outer core abutment on the steering
column lock housing.
6 Unclip the cable from its pedal box
location, then detach the bulkhead grommet
and pass the cable through into the engine
compartment. Withdraw the cable from the
vehicle.
7 The release lever on the steering column
may be removed, if required, by unhooking
the spring from its retaining arms, then
disengaging its retaining arms from the
steering column lock housing.
Refitting
8 Refit the release lever, if removed, by
reversing the method of removal.
9 To install the release cable, first pass the
latch end of the cable down the right-hand
side of the steering column, through its
bulkhead location, and out into the engine
compartment.
10 Fit the cable to its clip on the pedal box
assembly, then reconnect the cable to the
release lever and the steering column lock
housing abutment by reversing the method of
removal.
11 Where applicable, refit the choke warning
light switch/pull control assembly, to the lower steering column shroud, by reversing the
method of removal. Refit the shroud.
12
Seat the release cable grommet into the
bulkhead.
13 Route and secure the release cable in the
engine compartment.
14 Reconnect the release cable to the latch,
then refit the latch to the body, setting the
latch at its maximum height position, and
tightening only the bottom retaining screw.
15 Adjust the latch for flush bonnet closure in
accordance with Section 8.
8 Bonnet latch - adjustment
1
1To adjust the bonnet latch, remove the two
upper latch retaining screws, then with the
latch raised to its maximum height position
and secured with the lower retaining screw,
close the bonnet.
2 Slacken the lower latch retaining screw,
through the gap between the leading edge of
the bonnet and the radiator grille slot, then
set the bonnet so it sits flush with its
surrounding panels - it may be necessary to
adjust the height of the bump stops (see
Section 6) if they have been moved in any
way, or if fitting a new bonnet.
3 With the desired bonnet closure obtained,
fully tighten the lower latch retaining screw,
then open the bonnet and refit the two upper
latch retaining screws, tightening to the
specified torque.
9 Body adhesive emblems -
renewal
1
1 Using a length of strong thin diameter cord
(fishing line is ideal), break the adhesive bond
between the emblem and the panel.
2 Thoroughly clean all traces of the old
adhesive from the emblem location, using
methylated spirit, taking all normal safety
precautions. Allow the emblem location to
dry.
3 Gently heat the new emblem until it is warm
to the touch. 4
Peel the protective backing paper from the
emblem then, taking care not to touch the
adhesive, position the emblem on the panel.
Maintain hand pressure evenly for at least
thirty seconds to ensure a good bond.
10 Body trim mouldings -
removal and refitting
1
Roof drip rail moulding (all
models except Courier)
Removal
1 Remove the drip rail moulding by gently
raising the forward end from its retaining
flange, taking care not to bend or kink it, then
carefully pull it off the retaining flange (see
illustration) .
Refitting
2To refit the drip rail moulding, first align the
rear of the moulding to the roof panel edge by
the tailgate, then, using the flat palm of the
hand, gently tap the moulding down.
3 If fitting the Ford roof rack, the drip rail
mouldings on both sides must be removed
and replaced by a ten-piece moulding kit,
available from Ford dealerships.
Roof drip rail moulding (Courier
models)
Removal
4 These are released by lifting and gripping
the moulding’s inboard edge, then by
rotating the whole length of the moulding
towards the outside of the vehicle to release it
from its outboard lip.
Refitting
5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; ensure that the moulding’s
outboard edge is seated securely in its lip
before pressing the inboard edge firmly into
place.
Door side moulding
Removal
6 Apply masking tape, as an alignment guide
and to protect the paintwork, just above and
just below the moulding to be renewed.
7 Using a length of strong thin diameter cord
(fishing line is ideal), break the bond between
the moulding and the panel, and remove the
moulding (see illustration) .
Refitting
8Thoroughly clean the moulding location of
any trace of old adhesive, using methylated
spirit, taking all normal safety precautions.
Allow the moulding location to dry.
9 Continue to proceed using a similar
technique to that described in Section 9
taking care to align the moulding correctly.
10 To improve the adhesive bond, apply
pressure over the whole length of the
moulding using a roller.
11 Remove the masking tape carefully.
Bodywork and fittings 11•5
7.3b Bonnet release cable attachments at
the latch
A Outer cable attachment
B Inner cable attachment
10.7 Removing a door side moulding
A Masking tape C Nylon cord (fishing line)
B Moulding
10.1 Removing a roof drip rail moulding
11
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