battery replacement FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Repair Manual

Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Main bearing cap bolts and nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8059
Crankpin (big-end) bearing cap bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 1813
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º
Piston-cooling oil jet/blanking plug Torx screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Cylinder block and head oilway blanking plugs:
M6 x 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
M10 x 11.5 - in block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 2317
1/4 PTF plug - in block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
2418
Engine-to-transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4130
Note: Refer to Part C of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.
2D•6 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 General information
Included in this Part of Chapter 2 are details
of removing the engine/transmission from the
car and general overhaul procedures for the
cylinder head, cylinder block/crankcase and
all other engine internal components.
The information given ranges from advice
concerning preparation for an overhaul and
the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed
step-by-step procedures covering removal,
inspection, renovation and refitting of engine
internal components.
After Section 6, all instructions are based
on the assumption that the engine has been
removed from the car. For information
concerning in-car engine repair, as well as the
removal and refitting of those external
components necessary for full overhaul, refer
to Part A, B or C of this Chapter (as
applicable) and to Section 6. Ignore any
preliminary dismantling operations described
in Part A, B or C that are no longer relevant
once the engine has been removed from the
car.
2 Engine/transmission removal - preparation and
precautions
If you have decided that an engine must be
removed for overhaul or major repair work,
several preliminary steps should be taken.
Locating a suitable place to work is
extremely important. Adequate work space,
along with storage space for the car, will be
needed. If a workshop or garage is not
available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean
work surface is required. If possible, clear some shelving close to the
work area and use it to store the engine
components and ancillaries as they are
removed and dismantled. In this manner the
components stand a better chance of staying
clean and undamaged during the overhaul.
Laying out components in groups together
with their fixing bolts, screws etc will save
time and avoid confusion when the engine is
refitted. Clean the engine compartment and
engine/transmission before beginning the
removal procedure; this will help visibility and
help to keep tools clean. On three of the engines covered in this
manual (CVH, PTE, and Zetec), the unit can
only be withdrawn by removing it complete
with the transmission; the vehicle’s body must
be raised and supported securely, sufficiently
high that the engine/transmission can be
unbolted as a single unit and lowered to the
ground; the engine/transmission unit can then
be withdrawn from under the vehicle and
separated. On all engines, an engine hoist or
A- frame will be necessary. Make sure the
equipment is rated in excess of the combined
weight of the engine and transmission. The help of an assistant should be
available; there are certain instances when
one person cannot safely perform all of the
operations required to remove the engine
from the vehicle. Safety is of primary
importance, considering the potential hazards
involved in this kind of operation. A second
person should always be in attendance to
offer help in an emergency. If this is the first
time you have removed an engine, advice and
aid from someone more experienced would
also be beneficial. Plan the operation ahead of time. Before
starting work, obtain (or arrange for the hire
of) all of the tools and equipment you will
need. Access to the following items will allow
the task of removing and refitting the
engine/transmission to be completed safely
and with relative ease: an engine hoist - rated
in excess of the combined weight of the
engine/transmission, a heavy-duty trolley
jack, complete sets of spanners and sockets
as described in “ Tools and working facilities ”
at the rear this manual, wooden blocks, and
plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for
mopping up spilled oil, coolant and fuel. A
selection of different sized plastic storage bins
will also prove useful for keeping dismantled
components grouped together. If any of the
equipment must be hired, make sure that you
arrange for it in advance, and perform all of
the operations possible without it beforehand;
this may save you time and money. Plan on the vehicle being out of use for
quite a while, especially if you intend to carry
out an engine overhaul. Read through the
whole of this Section and work out a strategy based on your own experience and the tools,
time and workspace available to you. Some of
the overhaul processes may have to be
carried out by a Ford dealer or an engineering
works - these establishments often have busy
schedules, so it would be prudent to consult
them before removing or dismantling the
engine, to get an idea of the amount of time
required to carry out the work.
When removing the engine from the vehicle,
be methodical about the disconnection of
external components. Labelling cables and
hoses as they removed will greatly assist the
refitting process.
Always be extremely careful when lifting the
engine/transmission assembly from the
engine bay. Serious injury can result from
careless actions. If help is required, it is better
to wait until it is available rather than risk
personal injury and/or damage to components
by continuing alone. By planning ahead and
taking your time, a job of this nature, although
major, can be accomplished successfully and
without incident.
3 Engine - removal and
refitting (HCS engines)
3
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system.
Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or bare
light bulbs, in or near the work area, and
don’t work in a garage where a natural-gas
appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water
heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on
your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a
fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires
handy, and know how to use it.
Note: Read through the entire Section, as well
as reading the advice in the preceding
Section, before beginning this procedure. The
engine is removed separately from the
transmission and is lifted upwards and out of
the engine compartment.
Removal
1 On fuel injection engines, refer to Chap-
ter 4B and depressurise the fuel system.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
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This is used to refine the calculations made by
the module, when determining the correct
amount of fuel required to achieve the ideal
air/fuel mixture ratio.A throttle position sensor is mounted on the
end of the throttle valve spindle, to provide
the EEC IV module with a constantly-varying
(analogue) voltage signal corresponding to the
throttle opening. This allows the module to
register the driver’s input when determining
the amount of fuel required by the engine. Road speed is monitored by the vehicle
speed sensor. This component is a Hall-effect
generator, mounted on the transmission’s
speedometer drive. It supplies the EEC IV
module with a series of pulses corresponding
to the vehicle’s road speed, enabling the
module to control features such as the fuel
shut-off on overrun. A manifold absolute pressure sensor
measures inlet manifold vacuum, and supplies
this information to the module for calculation
of engine load at any given throttle position. Where power steering is fitted, a pressure-
operated switch is screwed into the power
steering system’s high-pressure pipe. The
switch sends a signal to the EEC IV module to
reduce engine speed should the power
steering fluid pressure become excessively
high. Certain later engines may be fitted with a
heater in the inlet manifold. This is controlled
by the EEC IV module to ensure that, even
before the effect of the coolant heating
becomes apparent, the manifold is warmed-
up. This prevents fuel droplets condensing in
the manifold, thus improving driveability and
reducing exhaust emissions when the engine
is cold.
The oxygen sensor in the exhaust system
provides the EEC IV module with constant
feedback - “closed-loop” control - which
enables it to adjust the mixture to provide the
best possible conditions for the catalytic
converter to operate.
Precautions
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable - great care must be
taken when working on any part
of the fuel system. Do not
smoke or allow any naked flames or
uncovered light bulbs near the work area.
Note that gas powered domestic
appliances with pilot flames, such as
heaters, boilers and tumble dryers, also
present a fire hazard - bear this in mind if
you are working in an area where such
appliances are present. Always keep a
suitable fire extinguisher close to the work
area and familiarise yourself with its
operation before starting work. Wear eye
protection when working on fuel systems
and wash off any fuel spilt on bare skin
immediately with soap and water. Note
that fuel vapour is just as dangerous as
liquid fuel; a vessel that has just been
emptied of liquid fuel will still contain vapour and can be potentially explosive.
Petrol is a highly dangerous and volatile
liquid, and the precautions necessary
when handling it cannot be overstressed.
Many of the operations described in this
Chapter involve the disconnection of fuel
lines, which may cause an amount of fuel
spillage. Before commencing work, refer
to the above Warning and the information
in “Safety first” at the beginning of this
manual. When working with fuel system
components, pay particular attention to
cleanliness - dirt entering the fuel system
may cause blockages which will lead to
poor running.
Note: Residual pressure will remain in the fuel
lines long after the vehicle was last used,
when disconnecting any fuel line, it will be
necessary to depressurise the fuel system as
described in Section 2 .
2 Fuel system-
depressurisation
1
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Warning: The following
procedure will merely relieve the
pressure in the fuel system -
remember that fuel will still be present in
the system components, and take
precautions accordingly before
disconnecting any of them.
1 The fuel system referred to in this Chapter
is defined as the fuel tank and tank-mounted
fuel pump/fuel gauge sender unit, the fuel
filter, the fuel injector, fuel pressure regulator,
and the metal pipes and flexible hoses of the
fuel lines between these components. All
these contain fuel, which will be under
pressure while the engine is running and/or
while the ignition is switched on.
2 The pressure will remain for some time after
the ignition has been switched off, and must
be relieved before any of these components is
disturbed for servicing work.
3 The simplest depressurisation method is to
disconnect the fuel pump electrical supply by
removing the fuel pump fuse (No 19) and
starting the engine; allow the engine to idle
until it dies through lack of fuel pressure. Turn
the engine over once or twice on the starter to
ensure that all pressure is released, then
switch off the ignition; do not forget to refit the
fuse when work is complete.
4 Note that, once the fuel system has been
depressurised and drained (even partially), it
will take significantly longer to restart the
engine - perhaps several seconds of cranking
- before the system is refilled and pressure
restored.
3 Fuel lines and fittings -
general information
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Disconnecting and connecting
quick-release couplings
1 Quick-release couplings are employed at
many of the unions in the fuel feed and return
lines.
2 Before disconnecting any fuel system
component, relieve the residual pressure in
the system (see Section 2), and equalise tank
pressure by removing the fuel filler cap.
Warning: This procedure will
merely relieve the increased
pressure necessary for the
engine to run - remember that
fuel will still be present in the system
components, and take precautions
accordingly before disconnecting any of
them.
3 Release the protruding locking lugs on each
union, by squeezing them together and
carefully pulling the coupling apart. Use rag to
soak up any spilt fuel. Where the unions are
colour-coded, the pipes cannot be confused.
Where both unions are the same colour, note
carefully which pipe is connected to which,
and ensure that they are correctly
reconnected on refitting.
4 To reconnect one of these couplings, press
them together until the locking lugs snap into
their groove. Switch the ignition on and off
five times to pressurise the system, and check
for any sign of fuel leakage around the
disturbed coupling before attempting to start
the engine.
Checking
5 Checking procedures for the fuel lines are
included in Chapter 1.
Component renewal
6 If any damaged sections are to be renewed,
use original-equipment replacement hoses or
pipes, constructed from exactly the same
material as the section being replaced. Do not
install substitutes constructed from inferior or
inappropriate material; this could cause a fuel
leak or a fire.
7 Before detaching or disconnecting any part
of the fuel system, note the routing of all
hoses and pipes, and the orientation of all
clamps and clips. Replacement sections must
be installed in exactly the same manner.
8 Before disconnecting any part of the fuel
system, be sure to relieve the fuel system
pressure (see Section 2), and equalise tank
pressure by removing the fuel filler cap. Also
disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead -
see Chapter 5A, Section 1. Cover the fitting
being disconnected with a rag, to absorb any
fuel that may spray out.
Fuel system - central fuel injection engines 4B•3
4B
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11 Brake pedal-to-servo cross-link - removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Disconnect the cross link pushrod from its
brake pedal location by removing the retaining
clip on the brake pedal, noting the bush fitted
in the pedal.
3 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
fluid level warning indicator in the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap, then remove the
filler cap. Note that the filler cap must not be
inverted. The brake fluid should now be
removed from the reservoir.
4 Identify each brake pipe and its connection
to the master cylinder. Unscrew the fluid pipe
to master cylinder union nuts and disconnect
the pipes. On models equipped with anti-lock
brakes, disconnect the modulator return
hoses from the brake fluid reservoir, collecting
fluid spillage from the hoses in a suitable tray.
The modulator return hose unions should be
disconnected by first pushing the hose into
the reservoir, then retaining the collar against
the reservoir body whilst withdrawing the
hose. Note that the modulator return hoses
are colour coded - the left-hand modulator
has a black return hose and connector, and
should be fitted to the forward section of the
reservoir, whilst the right-hand modulator has
a grey return hose and connector, and should
be fitted to the rear section of the reservoir.
5 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the
servo unit by carefully levering between the
hose connector and the servo housing collar
with a screwdriver.
6 Lift up the flap of sound insulation on the bulkhead, in the passenger side footwell, to
expose the servo mounting bracket retaining
nuts, and remove them
(see illustration).
7 Remove the four nuts securing the servo
unit to its mounting bracket assembly.
8 Pull the servo/master cylinder assembly
forward and remove the inner servo support
bracket.
9 Remove the spring clip and clevis pin
securing the servo actuating rod to the cross
link, then lift out the servo/master cylinder
assembly.
10 Remove the two nuts on the right-hand
side of the pedal box assembly to free the
cross link right-hand support bracket, then
withdraw the link from the vehicle (see
illustration) .
Refitting
11Refitting is the reverse procedure to
removal, ensuring that the brake pedal
pushrod grommet is seated correctly in the
bulkhead and that the pushrod itself locates
through the brake pedal before securing the
servo operating link support brackets. Ensure
correct location of the pushrod bush in the
brake pedal.
12 Bleed the complete brake hydraulic
system in accordance with Section 13 or 14
(as applicable).
12 Hydraulic pipes and hoses -
renewal
2
Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 13
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
1 If any pipe or hose is to be renewed,
minimise hydraulic fluid loss by disconnecting
the wiring multi-plug from the fluid level
warning indicator in the master cylinder
reservoir filler cap, then remove the filler cap.
Note that the filler cap must not be inverted.
Place a piece of plastic film over the reservoir
and seal it with an elastic band. Alternatively,
flexible hoses can be sealed, if required, using
a proprietary brake hose clamp; metal brake pipe unions can be plugged (if care is taken
not to allow dirt into the system) or capped
immediately they are disconnected. Place a
wad of rag under any union that is to be
disconnected, to catch any spilt fluid.
2
If a flexible hose is to be disconnected,
unscrew the brake pipe union nut before
removing the spring clip which secures the
hose to its mounting (see illustration). Where
the other end of the hose is connected
directly to the brake caliper, disconnect it by
unscrewing it from its tapped hole.
3 To unscrew the union nuts, it is preferable to
obtain a brake pipe spanner of the correct size;
these are available from most large motor
accessory shops. Failing this, a close-fitting
open-ended spanner will be required, though if
the nuts are tight or corroded, their flats may be
rounded-off if the spanner slips. In such a case,
a self-locking wrench is often the only way to
unscrew a stubborn union, but it follows that
the pipe and the damaged nuts must be
renewed on reassembly. Always clean a union
and surrounding area before disconnecting it. If
disconnecting a component with more than
one union, make a careful note of the
connections before disturbing any of them.
4 If a brake pipe is to be renewed, it can be
obtained, cut to length and with the union
nuts and end flares in place, from Ford
dealers. All that is then necessary is to bend it
to shape, following the line of the original,
before fitting it to the car. Alternatively, most
motor accessory shops can make up brake
pipes from kits, but this requires very careful
measurement of the original, to ensure that
the replacement is of the correct length. The
safest answer is usually to take the original to
the shop as a pattern.
5 Before refitting, blow through the new pipe
or hose with dry compressed air. Do not
overtighten the union nuts. It is not necessary
to exercise brute force to obtain a sound joint.
6 If flexible rubber hoses are renewed, ensure
that the pipes and hoses are correctly routed,
with no kinks or twists, and that they are
secured in the clips or brackets provided.
7 After fitting, bleed the hydraulic system as
described in Section 13 or 14 (as applicable),
wash off any spilt fluid, and check carefully for
fluid leaks.
Braking system 9•9
12.2 Prising out a spring retaining clip from a rigid pipe/flexible hose support bracket11.10 Exploded view of brake pedal-to-
servo cross link and its retaining brackets11.6 Servo mounting bracket retaining nuts
A Inner section retaining nuts
B Outer section retaining nuts
9
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
An ideal way to remove fluid from the master cylinder
reservoir is to use a clean
syringe or an old poultry
baster.
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Right-hand side
4Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
5 Remove the one-piece undertray where
fitted, by turning the bayonet type fasteners,
and on XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember (see Chapter 10).
6 From underneath, remove the belt-break
switch from the right-hand drivebelt cover by
squeezing its release lever towards the main
body of the switch (see illustration), then
carefully withdraw, ensuring that the belt
contact arm does not catch on the drivebelt
cover.
7 Remove the two bolts securing the
modulator drivebelt cover to the modulator
mounting bracket, and withdraw the cover
(see illustration) .
8 Disconnect the rigid brake pipes from the
modulator, fitting blanking plugs to prevent
excessive fluid loss and dirt ingress.
9 Remove the modulator pivot bolt and
adjuster bolt (see illustration) , then slip the
drivebelt from its pulley, and withdraw the
modulator unit from the vehicle. Ensure that
the modulator return hose does not become
kinked as the modulator unit is withdrawn.
10 Disconnect the modulator return hose
from the modulator unit, and fit a blanking
plug to prevent dirt ingress. Allow for residual
fluid spillage as the hose is disconnected.
11 If a new modulator is to be fitted, note that
these units are not interchangeable from side
to side, and the correct replacement must be
obtained. The modulator units are colour-
coded, and must be fitted with the arrows on
top of the casings pointing towards the front
of the vehicle.
12 To refit, first connect the modulator return
hose to the return outlet on the modulator
unit.
13 Locate the modulator unit to its bracket
and fit the pivot bolt, having applied a thin
smear of anti-seize compound to the bolt, but
do not fully tighten at this stage. Take care not
to damage the modulator return hose as it is
manoeuvred into position.
14 Fit the drivebelt to its modulator pulley
location, ensuring that it sits correctly over the driveshaft pulley, then refit the adjuster bolt
but do not fully tighten at this stage.
15
Adjust the tension of the drivebelt by
moving the modulator unit, until a belt
deflection of 5.0 mm is obtained under firm
finger pressure. Check this using a ruler at a
point midway between the two pulleys.
16 With the drivebelt tensioned correctly,
tighten the pivot and adjuster bolts to the
specified torque. Re-check the tension of the
drivebelt after tightening the bolts.
17 Reconnect the rigid brake pipes to the
modulator, tightening the unions securely.
18 Refit the modulator drivebelt cover to the
modulator mounting bracket, and secure with
its two retaining bolts.
19 Refit the belt-break switch to the
modulator drivebelt cover, taking care not to
damage the belt contact arm as it passes
through the cover.
20 Reconnect the modulator return hose by
pushing the hose firmly into its brake fluid
reservoir location, then lever out the collar to
retain it.
21 Refit the front suspension crossmember
and the one-piece undertray, as applicable.
22 Lower the vehicle to the ground.
23 Top-up the brake fluid reservoir using
fresh fluid of the specified type (see “ Weekly
checks ”), then bleed the brake hydraulic
system in accordance with Section 14. Refit
the reservoir filler cap and warning indicator
wiring multi-plug on completion.
24 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
Left-hand side
25Repeat the procedures given in
paragraphs 1 to 3.
26 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheels.
27 Remove the one-piece undertray where
fitted, by turning the bayonet type fasteners,
and on XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember (see Chapter 10).
28 Remove the belt-break switch from the
left-hand drivebelt cover in a similar manner to
that described in paragraph 6, this time from
the engine compartment. 29
Remove the two bolts securing the
modulator drivebelt cover to the modulator
mounting bracket, then ease the lower portion
of the cover over the driveshaft taking care
not to damage the driveshaft CV joint gaiter.
Withdraw the cover through the engine
compartment, manoeuvring it to clear
obstructions.
30 Disconnect the rigid brake pipes from the
modulator, fitting blanking plugs to prevent
excessive fluid loss and dirt ingress.
31 Slacken the modulator pivot and adjuster
bolts, then swing the modulator downwards
to release the drivebelt tension before slipping
the drivebelt from its modulator pulley
location.
32 Remove the modulator pivot and adjuster
bolts, withdraw the modulator upwards
through the engine compartment. Ensure that
the modulator return hose does not become
kinked as the modulator unit is withdrawn.
33 Disconnect the modulator return hose
from the modulator unit, and fit a blanking
plug to prevent dirt ingress. Allow for residual
fluid spillage as the hose is disconnected.
34 If a new modulator is to be fitted, note that
these units are not interchangeable from side
to side, and the correct replacement must be
obtained. The modulator units are colour-
coded, and must be fitted with the arrows on
top of the casings pointing towards the front
of the vehicle.
35 To refit, first connect the modulator return
hose to the return outlet on the modulator
unit.
36 Locate the modulator unit to its mounting
bracket and fit the pivot bolt, having applied a
thin smear of anti-seize compound to the bolt,
but do not fully tighten at this stage. Take care
not to damage the modulator return hose as it
is manoeuvred into position.
37 Fit the drivebelt to its modulator pulley
location, ensuring that it sits correctly over the
driveshaft pulley, then refit the adjuster bolt
but do not fully tighten at this stage.
38 Adjust the tension of the drivebelt by
moving the modulator unit, until a belt
deflection of 5.0 mm is obtained under firm
finger pressure. Check this using a ruler at a
point midway between the two pulleys.
Braking system 9•15
24.9 Modulator pivot bolt (A) and adjuster bolt (B)24.7 Modulator drivebelt cover to
mounting bracket securing bolts (arrowed)24.6 Belt-break switch in drivebelt cover
A Main switch body B Release lever
9
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The vehicle owner who does his or her own
maintenance according to the recommended
service schedules should not have to use this
section of the manual very often. Modern
component reliability is such that, provided
those items subject to wear or deterioration
are inspected or renewed at the specified
intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare.
Faults do not usually just happen as a result of
sudden failure, but develop over a period of
time. Major mechanical failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic
symptoms over hundreds or even thousands
of miles. Those components which do
occasionally fail without warning are often
small and easily carried in the vehicle.
With any fault-finding, the first step is to
decide where to begin investigations.
Sometimes this is obvious, but on other
occasions, a little detective work will be
necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in curing a
fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the
wiser if the fault recurs, and ultimately may
have spent more time and money than was
necessary. A calm and logical approach will
be found to be more satisfactory in the long
run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been
noticed in the period preceding the fault -
power loss, high or low gauge readings,
unusual smells, etc - and remember that
Engine
m
m
Engine backfires
m
m Engine difficult to start when cold
m
m Engine difficult to start when hot
m
m Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m
m Engine hesitates on acceleration
m
m Engine idles erratically
m
m Engine lacks power
m
m Engine misfires at idle speed
m
m Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m
m Engine noises
m
m Engine rotates, but will not start
m
m Engine runs-on after switching off
m
m Engine stalls
m
m Engine starts, but stops immediately
m
m Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
m
m Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement
Cooling system
m
mCorrosion
m
m External coolant leakage
m
m Internal coolant leakage
m
m Overcooling
m
m Overheating
Fuel and exhaust systems
m
mExcessive fuel consumption
m
m Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
m
m Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour
Clutch
m
mClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m
m Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle
speed)
m m Judder as clutch is engaged
m
m Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
m
m Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
Manual transmission
m
mJumps out of gear
m
m Lubricant leaks
m
m Noisy in neutral with engine running
m
m Noisy in one particular gear
m
m Vibration
Automatic transmission
m
mEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
m m Fluid leakage
m
m General gear selection problems
m
m Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m
m Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
m m Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully
depressed
Driveshafts
m mClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)
m
m Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
Braking system
m
mBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m
m Brakes binding
m
m Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m
m Excessive brake pedal travel
m
m Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
m
m Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
m
m Rear wheels locking under normal braking
m
m Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
Suspension and steering systems
m
mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during
braking
m m Excessive play in steering
m
m Excessively-stiff steering
m
m Lack of power assistance
m
m Tyre wear excessive
m
m Vehicle pulls to one side
m
m Wandering or general instability
m
m Wheel wobble and vibration
Electrical system
m
mBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m
m Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m
m Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m
m Ignition warning light fails to come on
m
m Ignition warning light remains illuminated with engine running
m
m Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic
m
m Lights inoperative
m
m Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m m Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
REF•14Fault finding
1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
Introduction
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