change time FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Repair Manual

The maintenance schedule for these
vehicles, based on the manufacturer’s
recommendations, is as described below -
note that the schedule starts from the
vehicle’s date of registration. These are the
minimum maintenance intervals recommen-
ded by the factory for Fiestas driven daily, but
subjected only to “normal” use. If you wish to
keep your vehicle in peak condition at all
times, you may wish to perform some of these
procedures even more often. Because
frequent maintenance enhances the
efficiency, performance and resale value of
your vehicle, we encourage you to do so. If
your usage is not “normal”, shorter intervals are also recommended - the most important
examples of these are noted in the schedule.
These shorter intervals apply particularly if
you drive in dusty areas, tow a caravan or
trailer, sit with the engine idling or drive at low
speeds for extended periods (ie, in heavy
traffic), or drive for short distances (less
than four miles) in below-freezing
temperatures.
When your vehicle is new, it should be
serviced by a Ford dealer service department
to protect the factory warranty. In many
cases, the initial maintenance check is done
at no cost to the owner. Note that this first
free service (carried out by the selling dealer 1500 miles or 3 months after delivery),
although an important check for a new
vehicle, is not part of the regular maintenance
schedule, and is therefore not mentioned
here.
It should be noted that for the 1992 model
year, for all models except RS Turbo, the
service time/mileage intervals were
extended by the manufacturer to the periods
shown in this schedule. Although these
intervals can be applied retrospectively,
owners of earlier vehicles may notice a
discrepancy between this schedule and the
one shown in the Service Guide supplied
with the vehicle.
1•4Maintenance schedule
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly
m
m Refer to “Weekly Checks” .
Every 5000 miles (8000 km) or
6 months, whichever occurs first
Note: Frequent oil and filter changes are good for the engine. We
recommend changing the oil at the mileage specified here, or at least
twice a year if the mileage covered is less.
m m Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3).
Every 10 000 miles (16 000 km) or
12 months, whichever occurs first
Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:
m mCheck the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 4).
m
m Check under the bonnet for fluid leaks and hose condition
(Section 5).
m
m Check the condition of all engine compartment wiring (Sec-
tion 6).
m
m Check the valve clearance adjustment - HCS engines only
(Section 7).
m
m Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 8).
m
m Check the engine idle speed and mixture - HCS and CVH
engines only, where possible (Section 9).
m
m Check the steering, suspension and roadwheels (Section 10).
m
m Check the driveshaft rubber gaiters and CV joints (Section 11).
m
m Check the exhaust system (Section 12).
m
m Check the underbody, and all fuel/brake lines (Section 13).
m
m Check the brake system (Section 14).
m
m Check the security of all roadwheel nuts (Section 15).
m
m Check the doors, tailgate and bonnet, and lubricate their hinges
and locks (Section 16).
m
m Check the seat belts (Section 17).
m
m Check the condition of the bodywork, paint and exterior trim
(Section 18).
m
m Road test (Section 19).
m
m Check the automatic transmission fluid level (Section 20).
Every 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or
two years, whichever occurs first
Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:
m mRenew the spark plugs and check the condition of the HT leads
- all engines except Zetec (Section 21).
m
m Clean the idle speed control valve (Weber type) - CVH EFi
engines only (Section 22).
Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km) or
three years, whichever occurs first
Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:
m m Renew the coolant (Section 23).
m
m Renew the air cleaner filter element and check the air cleaner
temperature control system - carburettor engines only (Sec-
tion 24).
m m Check the emission control systems (Section 25).
m
m Renew the spark plugs and check the condition of the HT leads
- Zetec engines (Section 21).
m
m Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 26).
m
m Check the handbrake adjustment (Section 27).
m
m Check the front wheel alignment (Section 28).
Note: If the vehicle is used regularly in dusty or polluted conditions,
the air cleaner filter element should be renewed at more frequent
intervals.
Every 40 000 miles
m
m Renew the timing belt - CVH and PTE engines only (Section 29).
Every 60 000 miles
m
mRenew the timing belt - Zetec engines only (Section 29).
m
m Renew the fuel filter (Section 30).
Every three years
(regardless of mileage)
m m Renew the brake fluid (Section 31).
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3 Engine oil and filter renewal
1
1Make sure that you have all the necessary
tools before you begin this procedure (see
illustration) . You should also have plenty of
rags or newspapers handy, for mopping up
any spills.
2 To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to
protect yourself from possible skin irritants
and other harmful contaminants in used
engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves
when carrying out this work. 3
Access to the underside of the vehicle is
greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a
hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
Warning: Do not work under a
vehicle which is supported only
by an hydraulic or scissors-type
jack, or by bricks, blocks of
wood, etc. 4
If this is your first oil change, get under the
vehicle and familiarise yourself with the
position of the engine oil drain plug location in
the sump. The engine and exhaust
components will be warm during the actual
work, so try to anticipate any potential
problems while the engine and accessories
are cool.
5 The oil should preferably be changed when
the engine is still fully warmed-up to normal
operating temperature, just after a run (the
needle on the temperature gauge should be in
the “Normal” sector of the gauge); warm oil
and sludge will flow out more easily. Park the
vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the
handbrake firmly, then select 1st or reverse
gear (manual transmission) or the “P” position
(automatic transmission). Open the bonnet
and remove the engine oil filler cap from the
cylinder head cover, then remove the oil level
dipstick from its tube (see “Weekly Checks”).
6 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and
Vehicle Support” ). Remove the front right-
hand roadwheel to provide access to the oil
1 Introduction
This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.
This Chapter contains a master
maintenance schedule, followed by Sections
dealing specifically with each task in the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of the various components.
Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals will not produce the same results. As you service your vehicle, you will
discover that many of the procedures can -
and should - be grouped together, because of
the particular procedure being performed, or
because of the close proximity of two
otherwise-unrelated components to one
another. For example, if the vehicle is raised
for any reason, the exhaust should be
inspected at the same time as the suspension
and steering components.
The first step of this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried
out, then make a list and gather together all
the parts and tools required. If a problem is
encountered, seek advice from a parts
specialist or a dealer service department.
2 Intensive maintenance
1
If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
2 It is possible that there will be some times
when the engine is running poorly due to the
lack of regular maintenance. This is even more
likely if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.
3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test (refer to Part A, B or C of Chapter 2) will
provide valuable information regarding the
overall performance of the main internal
components. Such a test can be used as a
basis to decide on the extent of the work to
be carried out. If, for example, a compression
test indicates serious internal engine wear,
conventional maintenance as described in this
Chapter will not greatly improve the
performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive
overhaul work (Chapter 2D) is carried out first.
4
The following series of operations are those
often required to improve the performance of
a generally poor-running engine:
Primary operations
a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See
“Weekly Checks”).
b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See
“Weekly Checks”).
c) Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 4).
d) Check and if necessary adjust the valve
clearances on HCS engines (Section 7).
e) Renew the spark plugs and clean and inspect the HT leads (Section 21).
f) Check the condition of the air cleaner filter element and renew if necessary
(Section 24).
g) Check and if necessary adjust the idle speed and mixture settings - where
applicable (Section 9).
h) Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection models (Section 30).
i) Check the condition of all hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Section 5).
5 If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following operations:
Secondary operations
All the items listed under “Primary
operations”, plus the following: a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A).
b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B).
c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A, 4B,
4C and 4D).
e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 21).
Maintenance procedures1•9
3.2 These tools are required when changing the engine oil and filter
1
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Every 5000 miles (8000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs first
Frequent oil changes are the
best preventive
maintenance the home
mechanic can give the
engine, because ageing oil becomes
diluted and contaminated, which leads
to premature engine wear.
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3Check that the roadwheel nuts are tightened
to the specified torque wrench setting.
4 Refit the wheel covers.
16 Door, tailgate and bonnet
check and lubrication
1
1Check that the doors and tailgate/boot lid
close securely. Check that the bonnet safety
catch operates correctly. Check the operation
of the door check straps.
2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps,
the striker plates and the bonnet catch
sparingly with a little oil or grease.
17 Seat belt check
1
1 Check the seat belts for satisfactory
operation and condition. Inspect the webbing
for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract
smoothly and without binding into their reels.
2 Check that the seat belt mounting bolts are
tight, and if necessary tighten them to the
specified torque wrench settings as given in
Chapter 11.
18 Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check
1
1The best time to carry out this check is after
the car has been washed so that any surface
blemish or scratch will be clearly evident and
not hidden by a film of dirt.
2 Starting at one front corner check the
paintwork all around the car, looking for minor
scratches or more serious dents. Check all
the trim and make sure that it is securely
attached over its entire length.
3 Check the security of all door locks, door
mirrors, badges, bumpers, front grille and
wheel trim. Anything found loose, or in need of
further attention should be done with reference
to the relevant Chapters of this manual.
4 Rectify any problems noticed with the
paintwork or body panels as described in
Chapter 11.
19 Road test
1
Check the operation and
performance of the braking
system
1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking, and that the wheels
do not lock prematurely when braking hard.
2 Check that there is no vibration through the
steering when braking. 3
Check that the handbrake operates
correctly, without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
4 Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine switched off,
depress the footbrake four or five times to
exhaust the vacuum, then hold the pedal
depressed. Start the engine, and there should
be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as
vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for
at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If
the brake pedal is depressed again, it should
be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as
the pedal is depressed. After about four or five
applications, no further hissing should be
heard, and the pedal should feel considerably
firmer.
Steering and suspension
5 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
6 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
7 Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive sloppiness or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering and driving over bumps.
Drivetrain
8 Check the performance of the engine,
transmission and driveshafts.
9 Check that the engine starts correctly, both
when cold and when hot.
10 Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine and transmission.
11 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
12 On manual transmission models, check
that all gears can be engaged smoothly
without noise, and that the gear lever action is
not abnormally vague or “notchy”.
13 On automatic transmission models, make
sure that the drive seems smooth without
jerks or engine speed “flare-ups”. Check that
all the gear positions can be selected with the
vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they
should be referred to a Ford dealer.
14 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from
the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven
slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock.
Carry out this check in both directions. If a
clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a
driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint
if necessary.
Clutch
15 Check that the clutch pedal moves
smoothly and easily through its full travel, and
that the clutch itself functions correctly, with
no trace of slip or drag. If the movement is
uneven or stiff in places, check that the cable
is routed correctly, with no sharp turns.
16 Inspect both ends of the clutch inner
cable, both at the transmission end and inside
the car, for signs of wear and fraying.
Instruments and electrical
equipment
17 Check the operation of all instruments
and electrical equipment.
18 Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment
in turn, to check that it functions properly.
20 Automatic transmission fluid level check
1
1The level of the automatic transmission fluid
should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level
can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while
overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and
transmission damage.
2 The transmission fluid level should only be
checked when the transmission is hot (at its
normal operating temperature). If the vehicle
has just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles in
a cold climate), and the fluid temperature is 60
to 70ºC, the transmission is hot.
Caution: If the vehicle has just been driven
for a long time at high speed or in city
traffic in hot weather, or if it has been
pulling a trailer, an accurate fluid level
reading cannot be obtained. In these
circumstances, allow the fluid to cool
down for about 30 minutes.
3 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the
handbrake, and start the engine. While the
engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and
move the selector lever through all the gear
positions three times, beginning and ending in
“P”.
4 Allow the engine to idle for one minute, then
(with the engine still idling) remove the
dipstick from its tube. Note the condition and
colour of the fluid on the dipstick.
5 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean
rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the
cap seats.
6 Pull the dipstick out again, and note the
fluid level. The level should be between
the “MIN” and “MAX” marks. If the level is
on the “MIN” mark, stop the engine, and add
the specified automatic transmission fluid
through the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel
if necessary. It is important not to introduce
dirt into the transmission when topping-up.
7 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep
checking the level as previously described
until it is correct. The difference between the
“MIN” and “MAX” marks on the dipstick is
approximately 0.4 litres.
8 The need for regular topping-up of the
transmission fluid indicates a leak, which
should be found and rectified without delay.
9 The condition of the fluid should also be
checked along with the level. If the fluid on the
dipstick is black or a dark reddish-brown
colour, or if it has a burned smell, the fluid
should be changed. If you are in doubt about
the condition of the fluid, purchase some new
fluid, and compare the two for colour and smell.
1•18Every 10 000 miles or 12 months
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21 Spark plug renewal and HTcomponent check
1
Note: Spark plug renewal at this service
interval is only necessary on the HCS, CVH
and PTE engines. On Zetec engines, the
recommended interval for spark plug renewal
is every 30 000 miles or three years.
Spark plug check and renewal
1 It is vital for the correct running, full
performance and proper economy of the engine
that the spark plugs perform with maximum
efficiency. The most important factor in ensuring
this is that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the
engine. The suitable type is given in the
Specifications Section at the beginning of this
Chapter, on the Vehicle Emissions Control
Information (VECI) label located on the
underside of the bonnet (only on models sold in
some areas) or in the vehicle’s Owner’s
Handbook. If the correct type is used and the
engine is in good condition, the spark plugs
should not need attention between scheduled
renewal intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely
necessary, and should not be attempted unless
specialised equipment is available, as damage
can easily be caused to the firing ends.
2 Spark plug removal and refitting requires a
spark plug socket, with an extension which can
be turned by a ratchet handle or similar. This
socket is lined with a rubber sleeve, to protect
the porcelain insulator of the spark plug, and to
hold the plug while you insert it into the spark
plug hole. You will also need a set of feeler
gauges, to check the spark plug electrode gap,
and a torque wrench to tighten the new plugs
to the specified torque (see illustration).
3 To remove the spark plugs, first open the
bonnet; the plugs are easily reached at the
top of the engine. Note how the spark plug
(HT) leads are routed and secured by clips,
and on some engines, how they’re positioned
along the channel in the cylinder head cover.
To prevent the possibility of mixing up spark
plug (HT) leads, it is a good idea to try to work
on one spark plug at a time.
4 If the marks on the original-equipment spark
plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads
1 to 4, to correspond to the cylinder the lead
serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt/chain
end of the engine). Pull the leads from the plugs
by gripping the rubber boot, not the lead,
otherwise the lead connection may be fractured.
5 It is advisable to soak up any liquid in the
spark plug recesses with a rag, and to remove
any dirt from them using a clean brush,
vacuum cleaner or compressed air before
removing the plugs, to prevent any dirt or
water from dropping into the cylinders. Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
6 Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that the
socket is kept in alignment with each plug - if
the socket is forcibly moved to either side, the
porcelain top of the plug may be broken off. If
any undue difficulty is encountered when
unscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefully
check the cylinder head threads and tapered
sealing surfaces for signs of wear, excessive
corrosion or damage; if any of these
conditions is found, seek the advice of a Ford
dealer as to the best method of repair.
7 As each plug is removed, examine it as
follows - this will give a good indication of the
condition of the engine. If the insulator nose is
covered with light tan to greyish-brown
deposits, then the mixture is correct, and it is
likely that the engine is in good condition.
8 If the tip and insulator nose are covered
with hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
9 If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is
indicative of a weak mixture.
10
If you are renewing the spark plugs,
purchase the new plugs, then check each of
them first for faults such as cracked insulators
or damaged threads. Note also that,
whenever the spark plugs are renewed as a
routine service operation, the spark plug (HT)
leads should be checked as described below.
11 The spark plug electrode gap is of
considerable importance as, if it is too large or
too small, the size of the spark and its
efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap
should be set to the value given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter. New
plugs will not necessarily be set to the correct
gap, so they should always be checked
before fitting.
12 The spark plug gap is correct when the
correct-size feeler gauge or wire gauge is a
firm sliding fit between the electrodes (see
illustrations) .
13 To adjust the electrode gap, bend open, or
close up, the outer plug electrode until the
correct gap is achieved (see illustration). The
centre electrode should never be bent, as this
may crack the insulation and cause plug failure,
Every 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or two years, whichever
comes first
Every 20 000 miles or two years1•19
21.12b Spark plug manufacturers
recommend using a wire-type gauge when
checking the gap - if the wire or feeler gauge
does not slide between the electrodes with a slight drag, adjustment is required
21.12a Measuring a spark plug gap with a feeler gauge21.2 Tools required for changing spark plugs
21.13 To change the gap, bend the outer
electrode only, and be very careful not to crack or chip the porcelain insulator
surrounding the centre electrode
1
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23 Coolant renewal
1
Note: If the antifreeze used is Ford’s own, the
coolant need not be renewed for the life of the
vehicle. If the vehicle’s history is unknown, if
antifreeze of lesser quality is known to be in
the system, or simply if you prefer to follow
conventional servicing intervals, the coolant
should be changed periodically (typically,
every 3 years) as described here. Refer also to
“Antifreeze - notes on renewal” in this
Section.
Warning: Do not allow
antifreeze to come in contact
with your skin or painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Flush
contaminated areas immediately with
plenty of water. Don’t store new coolant,
or leave old coolant lying around, where
it’s accessible to children or pets - they’re
attracted by its sweet smell. Ingestion of
even a small amount of coolant can be
fatal! Wipe up garage-floor and drip-pan
spills immediately. Keep antifreeze
containers covered, and repair cooling
system leaks as soon as they’re noticed.
Warning: Never remove the expansion
tank filler cap when the engine is running,
or has just been switched off, as the
cooling system will be hot, and the
consequent escaping steam and scalding
coolant could cause serious injury.
Coolant draining
Warning: Wait until the engine is
cold before starting this
procedure.
1 To drain the system, first remove the
expansion tank filler cap (see “Weekly
Checks” ).
2 If additional working clearance is required,
raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see
“Jacking and
Vehicle Support” ).
3 Place a large drain tray beneath the
radiator, and unscrew the radiator drain plug -
you can use a small coin to do this, as the
plug’s slotted for this purpose (see
illustration) . Direct as much of the escaping
coolant as possible into the tray.
System flushing
4 With time, the cooling system may gradually
lose its efficiency, as the radiator core
becomes choked with rust, scale deposits
from the water, and other sediment (refer also
to “Antifreeze - notes on renewal” later in this
S ection). To minimise this, as well as using
only good-quality antifreeze and clean soft
water, the system should be flushed as follows
whenever any part of it is disturbed, and/or
when the coolant is renewed.
5 With the coolant drained, refit the drain
plug, and refill the system with fresh water.
Refit the expansion tank filler cap, start the
engine and warm it up to normal operating
temperature, then stop it and (after allowing it
to cool down completely) drain the system
again. Repeat as necessary until only clean
water can be seen to emerge, then refill finally
with the specified coolant mixture as
described below.
6 If only clean, soft water and good-quality
antifreeze (even if not to Ford’s specification)
has been used, and the coolant has been
renewed at the suggested intervals, the above
procedure will be sufficient to keep the
system clean for a considerable length of
time. If, however, the system has been
neglected, a more thorough operation will be
required, as follows.
7 First drain the coolant, then disconnect the
radiator top and bottom hoses. Insert a
garden hose into the top hose, and allow
water to circulate through the radiator until it
runs clean from the bottom outlet.
8 To flush the engine, insert the garden hose
into the thermostat water outlet, and allow
water to circulate until it runs clear from the
bottom hose. If, after a reasonable period, the
water still does not run clear, the radiator
should be flushed with a good proprietary
cleaning agent.
9 In severe cases of contamination, reverse-
flushing of the radiator may be necessary. To
do this, remove the radiator (Chapter 3), invert
it, and insert the garden hose into the bottom
outlet. Continue flushing until clear water runs
from the top hose outlet. A similar procedure
can be used to flush the heater matrix.
10 The use of chemical cleaners should be
necessary only as a last resort. Normally,
regular renewal of the coolant will prevent
excessive contamination of the system.
Coolant filling
11 With the cooling system drained and
flushed, ensure that all disturbed hose unions
are correctly secured, and that the radiator
drain plug is securely tightened. If it was
raised, lower the vehicle to the ground.
12 Prepare a sufficient quantity of the
specified coolant mixture (see below); allow
for a surplus, so as to have a reserve supply
for topping-up.
13 Slowly fill the system through the
expansion tank; since the tank is the highest
point in the system, all the air in the system
should be displaced into the tank by the rising
liquid. Slow pouring reduces the possibility of
air being trapped and forming airlocks.
14 Continue filling until the coolant level
reaches the expansion tank “MAX” level line,
then cover the filler opening to prevent
coolant splashing out.
15 Start the engine and run it at idle speed,
until it has warmed-up to normal operating
temperature and the radiator cooling fan has
cut in; watch the temperature gauge to check
for signs of overheating. If the level in the
expansion tank drops significantly, top-up to
the “MAX” level line, to minimise the amount
of air circulating in the system.
16 Stop the engine, allow it to cool down
completely (overnight, if possible), then
uncover the expansion tank filler opening and
top-up the tank to the “MAX” level line. Refit
the filler cap, tightening it securely, and wash
off any spilt coolant from the engine
compartment and bodywork.
17 After refilling, always check carefully all
components of the system (but especially any
unions disturbed during draining and flushing)
for signs of coolant leaks. Fresh antifreeze has
a searching action, which will rapidly expose
any weak points in the system.
18 If, after draining and refilling the system,
symptoms of overheating are found which did
not occur previously, then the fault is almost
certainly due to trapped air at some point in
the system, causing an airlock and restricting
the flow of coolant; usually, the air is trapped
because the system was refilled too quickly.
In some cases, airlocks can be released by
tapping or squeezing the various hoses. If the
problem persists, stop the engine and allow it
to cool down completely, before unscrewing
the expansion tank filler cap or disconnecting
hoses to bleed out the trapped air.
Antifreeze mixture
19 If the antifreeze used is not to Ford’s
specification, it should always be renewed at
the suggested intervals (typically, every 2 or
3 years). This is necessary not only to maintain
the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent
Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km) or three years, whichever
comes first
Every 30 000 miles or three years 1•21
23.3 Drain plug location at the base of the radiator - use a coin to unscrew the plug
1
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the corrosion which would otherwise occur
as the corrosion inhibitors become progress-
ively less effective. Always use an ethylene
glycol-based antifreeze which is suitable for
use in mixed-metal cooling systems.
20If the antifreeze used is to Ford’s
specification, the levels of protection it affords
are indicated in the Specifications Section of
this Chapter. To give the recommended
standard mixture ratio for this antifreeze, 40%
(by volume) of antifreeze must be mixed with
60% of clean, soft water; if you are using any
other type of antifreeze, follow its
manufacturer’s instructions to achieve the
correct ratio. It is best to make up slightly
more than the system’s specified capacity, so
that a supply is available for subsequent
topping-up.
21 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling
system should be completely drained,
preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for
condition and security. As noted earlier, fresh
antifreeze will rapidly find any weaknesses in
the system.
22 After filling with antifreeze, a label should
be attached to the expansion tank, stating the
type and concentration of antifreeze used,
and the date installed. Any subsequent
topping-up should be made with the same
type and concentration of antifreeze. If
topping-up using antifreeze to Ford’s
specification, note that a 50/50 mixture is
permissible, purely for convenience.
23 Do not use engine antifreeze in the
windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will
damage the vehicle’s paintwork. A
screenwash additive should be added to the
washer system in its maker’s recommended
quantities.
Antifreeze - notes on renewal
24 Ford state that, where antifreeze to Ford
specification ESD-M97B-49-A is used, it will
last the lifetime of the vehicle. This is subject
to it being used in the recommended
concentration, unmixed with any other type of
antifreeze or additive, and topped-up when
necessary using only that antifreeze mixed 50/50 with clean water. If any other type of
antifreeze is added, the lifetime guarantee no
longer applies; to restore the lifetime
protection, the system must be drained and
thoroughly reverse-flushed before fresh
coolant mixture is poured in.
25
If the vehicle’s history (and therefore the
quality of the antifreeze in it) is unknown,
owners who wish to follow Ford’s
recommendations are advised to drain and
thoroughly reverse-flush the system before
refilling with fresh coolant mixture. If the
appropriate quality of antifreeze is used, the
coolant can then be left for the life of the
vehicle.
26 If any antifreeze other than Ford’s is to be
used, the coolant must be renewed at regular
intervals to provide an equivalent degree of
protection; the conventional recommendation
is to renew the coolant every two or three
years.
27 The above assumes the use of a mixture
(in exactly the specified concentration) of
clean, soft water and of antifreeze to Ford’s
specification or equivalent. It is also assumed
that the cooling system is maintained in a
scrupulously-clean condition, by ensuring that
only clean coolant is added on topping-up,
and by thorough reverse-flushing whenever
the coolant is drained.
General cooling system checks
28 The engine should be cold for the cooling
system checks, so perform the following
procedure before driving the vehicle, or
after it has been shut off for at least three
hours.
29 Remove the expansion tank filler cap, and
clean it thoroughly inside and out with a rag.
Also clean the filler neck on the expansion
tank. The presence of rust or corrosion in the
filler neck indicates that the coolant should be
changed. The coolant inside the expansion
tank should be relatively clean and
transparent. If it is rust-coloured, drain and
flush the system, and refill with a fresh coolant
mixture.
30 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length; renew
any hose which is cracked, swollen or
deteriorated (see Section 5).
31
Inspect all other cooling system
components (joint faces, etc.) for leaks. A leak
in the cooling system will usually show up as
white- or rust-coloured deposits on the area
adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this
nature are found on system components,
renew the component or gasket with
reference to Chapter 3.
32 Clean the front of the radiator with a soft
brush to remove all insects, leaves, etc,
embedded in the radiator fins. Be careful not
to damage the radiator fins, or cut your fingers
on them.
24 Air cleaner element renewal
1
1 The air cleaner filter element is located in
the air cleaner assembly mounted either on
top of the carburettor or CFi unit, or on the
left-hand or right-hand side of the engine
compartment at the front. Remove the air
cleaner lid as follows according to type.
Carburettor and CFi fuel
injection models
2 Undo the two or three retaining screws on
the top of the air cleaner lid (see illustration).
3 Release the clips, and lift off the air cleaner
cover (see illustration) .
EFi fuel injection models
4If the idle speed control valve is
mounted on the air cleaner, disconnect the
multi-plug and the air bypass hose from the
valve.
5 Disconnect the flexible hose between the
air cleaner lid and the air inlet duct or
turbocharger air intake.
6 Release the retaining clips and lift off the air
cleaner lid (see illustration) .
1•22Every 30 000 miles or three years
24.6 On EFi fuel injection engines, release
the retaining clips and lift off the air
cleaner lid24.3 . . . then spring back the clips and lift of the lid24.2 On carburettor and CFi fuel injectionengines, undo the air cleaner lid retaining
screws . . .
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engine idling, the hot-air inlet is open to allow
warm air from the exhaust manifold area to
enter the air cleaner. If the flap operates as
described, it is functioning correctly (see
illustration) .
21 If the flap fails to operate as described,
check the condition of the vacuum pipe and
its connections, and check that the flap valve
has not seized. If these are in order, either the
temperature sensor or vacuum actuator is
faulty, and a new air cleaner assembly must
be obtained. Refit the main air duct on
completion.
25 Emission control system
check
1
General
1Of the emission control systems that may
be fitted, only the crankcase ventilation
system and the evaporative emission control
systems require regular checking, and even
then, the components of these systems
require minimal attention.
2 Should it be felt that the other systems are
not functioning correctly, the advice of a
dealer should be sought.
Crankcase ventilation system
3 The function of the crankcase ventilation
system is to reduce the emission of unburned
hydrocarbons from the crankcase, and to
minimise the formation of oil sludge. By
ensuring that a depression is created in the
crankcase under most operating conditions,
particularly at idle, and by positively inducing
fresh air into the system, the oil vapours and
“blow-by” gases collected in the crankcase
are drawn from the crankcase, through the air
cleaner or oil separator, into the inlet tract, to
be burned by the engine during normal
combustion.
4 On HCS engines, the system consists of a
vented oil filler cap (with an integral mesh
filter) and a hose connecting it to the oil
separator/engine breather valve connector on
the underside of the air cleaner housing. A further hose leads from the adapter/filter to
the inlet manifold.
5
On CVH engines, a closed-circuit type
crankcase ventilation system is used, the
function of which is basically the same as that
described for the HCS engine types, but the
breather hose connects directly to the rocker
cover. A separate filter is fitted in the hose to
the rocker cover in certain applications (see
illustration) .
6 The system fitted to the PTE engines is
similar to that used on the earlier (CVH)
engines on which these engines are based,
but with revisions to the hose arrangement to
suit the remotely sited air cleaner and fuel
injection system layout.
7 On Zetec engines, the crankcase ventilation
system main components are the oil
separator mounted on the front (radiator) side
of the cylinder block/crankcase, and the
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve set
in a rubber grommet in the separator’s left-
hand upper end. The associated pipework
consists of a crankcase breather pipe and two
flexible hoses connecting the PCV valve to a
union on the left-hand end of the inlet
manifold, and a crankcase breather hose
connecting the cylinder head cover to the air
cleaner assembly. A small foam filter in the
air cleaner prevents dirt from being drawn
directly into the engine.
8 Check that all components of the system
are securely fastened, correctly routed (with
no kinks or sharp bends to restrict flow) and in
sound condition; renew any worn or damaged
components.
9 On HCS engines, remove and inspect the
oil filler cap to ensure that it is in good
condition, and not blocked up with sludge.
10 Disconnect the hoses at the cap, and
clean the cap if necessary by brushing the
inner mesh filter with petrol, and blowing
through with light pressure from an air line.
Renew the cap if it is badly congested.
11 If oil leakage is noted, disconnect the
various hoses and pipes, and check that all
are clear and unblocked. Remove the air
cleaner lid, and check that the hose from the
cylinder head cover to the air cleaner housing
is clear and undamaged. 12
Where fitted, the PCV valve is designed to
allow gases to flow out of the crankcase only,
so that a depression is created in the
crankcase under most operating conditions,
particularly at idle. Therefore, if either the oil
separator or the PCV valve are thought to be
blocked, they must be renewed (see Chap-
ter 4E). In such a case, however, there is
nothing to be lost by attempting to flush out
the blockage using a suitable solvent. The
PCV valve should rattle when shaken.
13 While the air filter element is removed (see
Section 24), wipe out the housing, and on
Zetec engines, withdraw the small foam filter
from its location in the rear right-hand corner
of the housing (see illustration) . If the foam is
badly clogged with dirt or oil, it must be
cleaned by soaking it in a suitable solvent,
and allowed to dry before being refitted.
Evaporative emission control
systems
14 Refer to the checks contained in Chap-
ter 4E.
26 Automatic transmission fluid renewal
1
1The automatic transmission fluid should
only be changed when the transmission is
cold.
2 Position the vehicle over an inspection pit,
on vehicle ramps, or jack it up and securely
support it on axle stands, but make sure that
it is level.
3 Place a suitable container beneath the drain
plug on the transmission sump pan. Remove
the transmission fluid dipstick to speed up the
draining operation.
4 Thoroughly clean the area around the drain
plug in the transmission sump pan, then
unscrew the plug and allow the fluid to drain
into the container.
5 When all the fluid has drained (this may take
quite some time) clean the drain plug, then
refit it together with a new seal and tighten it
securely.
6 Place a funnel with a fine mesh screen in
the dipstick tube, and fill the transmission with
1•24Every 30 000 miles or three years
25.13 The crankcase ventilation system foam filter is located in the air cleaner housing on Zetec engines25.5 Crankcase ventilation system filter on CVH engines
24.20 Air cleaner inlet and flap valve onthe CVH engine
A Flap open (cool air inlet closed)
B Warm air inlet
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bolt(s) securing the gearchange mechanism
stabiliser bar/exhaust forward mounting
bracket (where fitted) and ease it out of the
way.
7Remove the starter motor as described in
Chapter 5A, then undo the retaining bolts, and
remove the clutch cover plate from the front
face of the bellhousing (see illustration).
8 Progressively unscrew the sump retaining
bolts and remove them. Support and lower
the sump pan, taking care not to spill any oil
remaining in it as it is removed. If the sump is
stuck to the base of the crankcase, prise it
free using a screwdriver, but take care not to
damage the sump flange face. If it is really
stuck in position, check first that all of the
bolts are removed, then cut around the sump
gasket with a sharp knife to help in freeing the
joint.
9 After the sump is removed, further oil will
almost certainly continue to drip down from
within the crankcase, some old newspapers
positioned underneath will soak up the
spillage whilst the sump is removed.
10 Clean the sump of old oil and sludge,
using paraffin or a suitable engine cleaner
solution. Clean any traces of old gasket and
sealer from the mating faces of the sump and
the crankcase.
Refitting
11 Smear a suitable sealing compound onto
the junctions of the crankcase-to-oil seal carrier at the rear and the crankcase-to-oil
pump housing at the front on each side
(see
illustration) .
12 Insert a new rubber seal in the groove in
the rear oil seal carrier and the oil pump case.
As an aid to correct sump alignment when
refitting it, screw ten M6 studs into the
cylinder block, in the positions circled in
illustration 13.14.
13 Fit a new gasket over the studs. Fit the
sump into position, ensuring that the raised
spacers sit in the gasket. Insert the bolts into
the available holes, and finger-tighten them
only at this stage. Now remove the studs and
fit the remaining bolts, again finger-tight.
14 Tighten the sump bolts in a progressive,
numerical sequence to the specified torque
wrench setting (see illustration) .
15 Fit the sump drain plug with a new sealing
washer, and tighten it to the specified torque
wrench setting.
16 Refit the clutch cover plate, the auxiliary
drivebelt lower cover, the front suspension
crossmember, the gearchange mechanism
stabiliser bar/exhaust forward mounting
bracket, and the starter motor with reference
to the relevant Sections and Chapters of this
manual as applicable.
17 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe as
described in Chapter 4E.
18 On completion, lower the vehicle, and fill
the engine with oil as described in Chapter 1.
Reconnect the battery negative lead.
14 Oil pump -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chap-
ter 1).
3 Remove the crankshaft pulley (Section 6),
the timing belt covers (Section 7), the timing
belt, crankshaft sprocket and thrustwasher
(Sections 8 and 9), and the sump (Section 13).
4 Unscrew the retaining nut/bolts and remove
the oil pick-up pipe (see illustration).
5 Unbolt and withdraw the oil pump from the
front face of the engine. Clean the oil pump
for inspection. Refer to Section 15 for the
inspection procedures. The oil seal in the oil
pump housing should always be renewed
(Section 16).
Refitting
6 Before refitting the oil pump and the
associated fittings, clean off the respective
mating faces. A new oil pump gasket must be
obtained, as well as the seals and gaskets for
the other associated components to be
refitted.
7 When refitting the oil pump, precautionary
measures must be taken to avoid the
possibility of damaging the new oil seal as it is
engaged over the shoulder and onto its journal
on the crankshaft. Extract the Woodruff key
from the groove in the crankshaft, then cut a
thin plastic guide which will furl over and
protrude beyond the shoulder of the seal
journal on the crankshaft (see illus-
tration 14.9b) . This will allow the seal to ride
over the step, and avoid damaging the seal lip
as it is pushed into position on the crankshaft.
8 If a new oil pump is being fitted or the old
pump is to be re-used after cleaning and
inspection, first prime the pump by squirting
clean engine oil into it, and simultaneously
rotating the drivegear a few times (see
illustration) .
CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•11
13.14 Sump bolt tightening sequence
A Crankshaft pulley end of engine
Circled numbers indicate locations of studs
for correct sump alignment (see text)13.11 Sealing compound application points prior to refitting the sump
A Crankcase-to-oil pump housing
B Crankcase-to-rear oil seal carrier13.7 Removing the clutch cover plate
14.8 Prime the oil pump prior to fitting14.4 Removing the oil inlet pipe
2B
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fitted with three piston rings: two
compression rings and an oil control ring.
After manufacture, the cylinder bores and
piston skirts are measured and classified into
three grades, which must be carefully
matched together, to ensure the correct
piston/cylinder clearance; no oversizes are
available to permit reboring.The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by coil springs; they operate in guides
which are shrink-fitted into the cylinder head,
as are the valve seat inserts. Both camshafts are driven by the same
toothed timing belt, each operating eight
valves via self-adjusting hydraulic tappets,
thus eliminating the need for routine checking
and adjustment of the valve clearances. Each
camshaft rotates in five bearings that are line-
bored directly in the cylinder head and the
(bolted-on) bearing caps; this means that the
bearing caps are not available separately from
the cylinder head, and must not be
interchanged with caps from another engine. The water pump is bolted to the right-hand
end of the cylinder block, inboard of the
timing belt, and is driven with the power
steering pump and alternator by a flat
“polyvee”-type auxiliary drivebelt from the
crankshaft pulley.
When working on this engine, note that
Torx-type (both male and female heads) and
hexagon socket (Allen head) fasteners are
widely used; a good selection of bits, with the
necessary adapters, will be required, so that
these can be unscrewed without damage and,
on reassembly, tightened to the torque
wrench settings specified. Lubrication is by means of an eccentric-
rotor trochoidal pump, which is mounted on
the crankshaft right-hand end, and draws oil
through a strainer located in the sump. The
pump forces oil through an externally-
mounted full-flow cartridge-type filter - on
some versions of the engine, an oil cooler is
fitted to the oil filter mounting, so that clean oil
entering the engine’s galleries is cooled by the
main engine cooling system.
Repair operations possible with
the engine in the car
The following work can be carried out with
the engine in the car:
a) Compression pressure - testing.
b) Cylinder head cover - removal and
refitting.
c) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting.
d) Timing belt - renewal.
e) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal and refitting.
f) Camshaft oil seals - renewal.
g) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal and refitting.
h) Cylinder head - removal and refitting.
i) Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising.
j) Sump - removal and refitting.
k) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
l) Oil pump - removal and refitting. m)
Flywheel/driveplate - removal and
refitting.
n) Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting.
Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and
connecting rods (after removing the cylinder
head and sump) without removing the engine.
However, this is not recommended. Work of
this nature is more easily and thoroughly
completed with the engine on the bench, as
described in Chapter 2D.
2 Compression test -
description and interpretation
2
Refer to Section 2 in Part A of this Chapter.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating
2
1Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point
of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the
crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC
position at the end of its compression stroke,
and then again at the end of its exhaust
stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC
on the compression stroke for No 1 piston is
used. No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of
the engine. Proceed as follows.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the right-hand roadwheel.
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1) to expose the crankshaft pulley
and timing marks.
5 Fit a spanner onto the crankshaft pulley
bolt, and turn the crankshaft in its normal
direction of rotation (clockwise, viewed from
the pulley end). 6
Note the two pairs of notches in the inner
and outer rims of the crankshaft pulley. In the
normal direction of crankshaft rotation the first
pair of notches are irrelevant to the vehicles
covered in this manual, while the second pair
indicate TDC when aligned with the rear edge
of the raised mark on the sump. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise until the second pair of
notches align with the edge of the sump mark;
use a straight edge extended out from the
sump if greater accuracy is required (see
illustrations) .
7 Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are now at TDC, one
of them on the compression stroke. Remove
the oil filler cap; if No 4 cylinder exhaust cam
lobe is pointing to the rear of the vehicle and
slightly downwards, it is No 1 cylinder that is
correctly positioned. If the lobe is pointing
horizontally forwards, rotate the crankshaft
one full turn (360º) clockwise until the pulley
notches align again, and the lobe is pointing
to the rear and slightly down. No 1 cylinder
will then be at TDC on the compression
stroke.
8 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at
TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any
of the other cylinders can then be located by
rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180º at a
time and following the firing order (see
Specifications).
9 With the engine set at No 1 piston on TDC
compression, refit the drivebelt cover and the
roadwheel, then lower the vehicle and refit the
spark plugs.
4 Cylinder head cover -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the air inlet components as
necessary for access as described in the
Chapter 4D.
3 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4D.
4 On models equipped with power steering,
release the high pressure fluid pipe from the
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•3
3.6b . . . use a straight edge extended out from the sump (arrowed) if greater
accuracy is required3.6a Do not use crankshaft pulley’s first
pair of notches “A” - align second pair of
notches “B” with raised rib on sump “C” . . .
2C
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Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Chapter 1.
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19Fit the timing belt; if the original is being
refitted, ensure that the marks and notes
made on removal are followed, so that the belt
is refitted the same way round, and to run in
the same direction. Starting at the crankshaft
sprocket, work anti-clockwise around the
camshaft sprockets and tensioner, finishing
off at the rear guide pulley. The front run,
between the crankshaft and the exhaust
camshaft sprockets, mustbe kept taut,
without altering the position either of the
crankshaft or of the camshaft(s) - if necessary,
the position of the camshaft sprockets can be
altered by rotating each on its camshaft
(which remains fixed by the aligning tool).
Where the sprocket is still fastened, use the
holding tool described above to prevent the
sprocket from rotating while its retaining bolt
is slackened - the sprocket can then be
rotated on the camshaft until the belt will slip
into place; retighten the sprocket bolt.
20 When the belt is in place, slacken the
tensioner bolt gently until the spring pulls the
tensioner against the belt; the tensioner
should be retained correctly against the timing
belt inner shield and cylinder head, but must
be just free to respond to changes in belt
tension (see illustration) .
21 Tighten both camshaft sprocket bolts (or
check that they are tight, as applicable) and
remove the camshaft-aligning tool.
Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, and
rotate the crankshaft through two full turns
clockwise to settle and tension the timing belt,
returning the crankshaft to the TDC position
described previously. Refit the camshaft-
aligning tool; it should slip into place as
described in paragraph 8. If all is well,
proceed to paragraph 24 below.
22 If one camshaft is only just out of line, fit
the forked holding tool to its sprocket, adjust
its position as required, and check that any
slack created has been taken up by the
tensioner; rotate the crankshaft through two
further turns clockwise, and refit the
camshaft-aligning tool to check that it now fits
as it should. If all is well, proceed to
paragraph 24 below.
23 If either camshaft is significantly out of
line, use the holding tool to prevent its
sprocket from rotating while its retaining bolt is slackened - the camshaft can then be
rotated (gently and carefully, using an open-
ended spanner) until the camshaft-aligning
tool will slip into place; take care not to
disturb the relationship of the sprocket to the
timing belt. Without disturbing the sprocket’s
new position on the camshaft, tighten the
sprocket bolt to its specified torque wrench
setting
(see illustration) . Remove the
camshaft-aligning tool, rotate the crankshaft
through two further turns clockwise, and refit
the tool to check that it now fits as it should.
24 When the timing belt has been settled at
its correct tension, and the camshaft-aligning
tool fits correctly when the crankshaft pulley
notches are exactly aligned, tighten the
tensioner bolt to its specified torque wrench
setting (see illustration) . Fitting the forked
holding tool to the spokes of each sprocket in
turn, check that the sprocket bolts are
tightened to their specified torque wrench
setting. Remove the camshaft-aligning tool,
rotate the crankshaft through two further turns
clockwise, and refit the tool to make a final
check that it fits as it should.
25 The remainder of the reassembly
procedure is the reverse of removal, ensuring
that all fasteners are tightened to the specified
torque.
9 Timing belt tensioner and
sprockets - removal,
inspection and refitting
4
Tensioner
Note: If the tensioner is being removed for the
first time since the vehicle left the factory, a
tensioner spring and retaining pin must be
obtained for fitting on reassembly.
1 While it is possible to reach the tensioner
once the timing belt upper and middle covers
only have been removed, the whole
procedure outlined below must be followed,
to ensure that the valve timing is correctly
reset once the belt’s tension has been
disturbed.
2 Release the tension from the timing belt as
described in Section 8, paragraphs 1 to 12.
3 Unscrew the tensioner bolt and withdraw the tensioner, unhooking the spring, if fitted
(see illustration)
. Check the tensioner spring,
and renew it if there is any doubt about its
condition.
4 On reassembly, if it is being fitted for the
first time, screw the timing belt tensioner
spring retaining pin into the cylinder head,
tightening it to the specified torque wrench
setting. Hook the spring onto the pin and the
tensioner backplate, then refit the tensioner,
engaging its backplate on the locating peg.
5 Use an Allen key inserted into its centre to
rotate the tensioner as far as possible against
spring tension, then tighten the bolt to secure
the tensioner.
6 Reassemble, checking the camshaft
alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing
belt tension, as described in paragraphs 20
to 25 of Section 8.
Camshaft and crankshaft
sprockets
7 While it may be possible to remove any of
these sprockets once the relevant belt covers
have been removed, the complete timing belt
removal/refitting procedure (see Section 8)
must be followed, to ensure that the valve
timing is correctly reset once the belt’s
tension has been disturbed.
8 With the timing belt removed, the camshaft
sprockets can be detached once their
retaining bolts have been unscrewed as
described in paragraph 16 of Section 8. The
crankshaft sprocket can be pulled off the end
of the crankshaft, once the crankshaft pulley
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•7
8.24 When setting is correct, tighten
tensioner bolt to specified torque wrench setting8.23 Using forked holding tool while
camshaft toothed pulley bolt is tightened8.20 Slacken tensioner bolt to give initial belt tension
9.3 Removing timing belt tensioner
2C
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