key FORD GRANADA 1985 Service Owner's Manual

and bracket off the disc and tie them up out of
the way. Do not allow the caliper to hang on
the flexible hose.
3Remove the spring clip which secures the
disc (see illustration).
4Mark the relationship of the disc to the hub
if it is to be re-used, then remove the disc.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Tighten the caliper bracket bolts to the
specified torque, and check that the brake
flexible hose is not kinked or fouling in any
position of the steering wheel.
6Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads up
to the disc.
1Chock the front wheels and release the
handbrake. Slacken the rear wheel nuts, raise
and support the vehicle and remove the
relevant rear wheel.
2Free the handbrake cable from its clip in the
suspension lower arm.
3Remove the two bolts which secure the
caliper bracket to the hub. Lift the caliper and
bracket off the disc and suspend it without
straining the flexible hose.
4Remove the spring clip from the wheel stud.
Mark the disc-to-hub relationship and remove
the disc.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
6Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads up
to the disc.1Disc pads can be inspected without
removing the front wheels, using a mirror and
a torch through the aperture in the rear face of
the caliper. If any one pad is worn down to the
minimum specified, all four pads (on both front
wheels) must be renewed.
2To renew the pads, first remove the front
wheels, then prise free the spring clip from the
outboard face of a caliper (see illustration).
3Disconnect the pad wear warning wires,
when fitted (see illustration).
4Unscrew the two caliper slide bolts, using
a 7 mm hexagon key, until the caliper is free
of the bracket (see illustration).
5Lift the caliper off the disc and remove the
pads (see illustration). Support the caliper so
that the flexible hose is not strained. Do not
press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
6Clean the dust and dirt from the caliper,
bracket and disc, using a damp cloth or old
paintbrush which can be thrown away
afterwards. Take care not to disperse the dust
into the air, or to inhale it, since it may contain
asbestos. Scrape any scale or rust from the
disc. Investigate any hydraulic fluid leaks.
7Push the caliper piston back into its
housing, using the fingers or a blunt
instrument, to accommodate the extra
thickness of the new pads.
8Fit the new pads to the caliper, being careful
not to contaminate the friction surfaces with oilor grease. The inboard pad has a spring clip
which fits into the piston recess; the outboard
pad must have its backing paper peeled off,
after which the pad should be stuck to the
other side of the caliper (see illustrations).
9Fit the caliper and pads over the disc and
onto the caliper bracket. Tighten the slide
bolts to the specified torque.
10Reconnect the wear warning wires, if fitted.
11Refit the spring clip to the caliper.
12Repeat the operations on the other caliper,
then refit the wheels and lower the vehicle.
Tighten the wheel nuts.
13Pump the brake pedal several times to
bring the pads up to the disc, then check the
brake fluid level.
14Avoid heavy braking as far as possible for
the first hundred miles or so to allow the new
pads to bed in.7Front brake pads - inspection
and renewal
6Rear brake disc - removal and
refitting
10•4Braking system
5.3 Disc-securing spring clip
7.5 Lifting a front caliper off the disc7.8a Clipping the inboard front pad into the
piston
7.4 Undoing a caliper slide bolt
7.8b Both pads fitted to a front caliper
7.2 Spring clip fitted to outboard face of
front caliper7.3 Pad wear warning multi-plug (arrowed)
on front caliper
procarmanuals.com

6For further dismantling it is virtually essential
to have Ford tool 12-007. This tool appears to
be a cut-down adjuster nut with a handle for
turning it. In the workshop it was found that
the piston adjuster nut could be used to
compress the spring if it were turned with
circlip pliers (see illustration). This works well
enough for dismantling, but reassembly
proved extremely difficult because of the
limited clearance between the skirt of the nut
and the caliper bore.
7Having compressed the adjuster spring just
enough to take the load off the circlip, release
the circlip inside the caliper bore. Remove the
spring compressor, then extract the circlip,
spring cover, spring and washer (see
illustrations). 8A long thin pair of circlip pliers will now be
needed to release the key plate retaining
circlip from the caliper bore (see illustration).
With the circlip removed, the pushrod and key
plate can be pulled out.
9Remove the handbrake strut from the
caliper bore.
10Remove the handbrake lever return spring
and stop bolt. Pull the lever and shaft nut out
of the caliper. Prise out the shaft seal.
11Clean up the handbrake shaft using wire
wool; renew the shaft if it is badly corroded.
The shaft bush in the caliper can also be
renewed if necessary. Pull out the old bush
with an internal puller or slide hammer; press
in the new bush to 7.5 mm (0.30 in) below the
shaft seal lip(seeillustration).The slot in the
side of the bush must line up with the pushrod
bore in the caliper.12Having renewed components as
necessary, commence reassembly by
smearing a little brake grease or anti-seize
compound on the handbrake shaft and bush.
13Fit a new handbrake shaft seal to the
caliper. Pass the shaft through the seal and
into the caliper, being careful not to damage
the seal lips.
14Refit the handbrake lever stop bolt and
return spring.
15Refit the handbrake strut, lubricating it
with brake grease.
16Fit a new O-ring to the base of the
pushrod. Refit the pushrod and the key plate,
engaging the pip on the key plate with the
recess in the caliper. Secure the key plate with
the circlip.
Braking system 10•7
10
12.4e . . . and the adjuster nut itself
Note seal (arrowed) on nut
12.7c . . . the spring itself . . .
12.6 Using the adjuster nut to compress
the caliper spring
12.7a Extract the circlip . . .12.7b . . . the spring cover . . .
12.7d . . . and the washer12.11 Handbrake shaft bush correctly fitted
X = 7.5 mm (0.30 in)12.8 Remove the circlip (ends arrowed) to
release the pushrod and key plate
12.4d . . . the thrust bearing . . .
procarmanuals.com

fluid. Identify the hydraulic pipes and
disconnect them from the base of the unit.
Hint: Plug or cap the open unions to keep
fluid in and dirt out.
6Remove the under-dash trim on the driver’s
side. Disconnect the spring clip which secures
the hydraulic unit pushrod to the brake pedal.
7Have an assistant support the hydraulic
unit. Remove the four nuts which hold the unit
to the bulkhead (see illustration). Withdraw
the unit from under the bonnet.
8Recover the sealing compound from the
unit and the bulkhead.
9Drain the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir.
Do not actuate the pushrod with the unit
removed.
10Dismantling of the hydraulic unit should be
limited to the operations described in thefollowing Sections. These operations can all
be carried out without removing the unit from
the vehicle if wished.
11Refit by reversing the removal operations,
noting the following points:
a)Do not refill the reservoir until the end of
refitting
b)Use new sealing compound between the
unit and the bulkhead
c)Make sure that the hydraulic pipes are
reconnected to the correct unions
d)Bleed the complete hydraulic system on
completion - see Section 2
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
3Disconnect the multi-plugs and remove the
reservoir cap.
4Remove the reservoir securing screw, which
is located just above the valve block multi-
plug (see illustration).
5Make arrangements to catch spilt fluid, then
disconnect the low pressure hose from its
connections to the pump. The hose is secured
by a spring clip (see illustrations). Allow the
brake fluid to drain out of the hose.
6Pull the reservoir out of the seals on the
hydraulic unit and remove it (see illustration).7Note the spigot locating bush on the rear
inlet union, which may stay in the hydraulic
unit or may come out with the reservoir (see
illustration).
8Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Use new seals between the hydraulic unit and
the reservoir.
9Bleed the complete hydraulic system on
completion (Section 2). Check for leaks
around the disturbed components.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
3Wrap a clean rag round the base of the
accumulator to catch any spilt fluid.
4Unscrew the accumulator using a hexagon
key. Remove the accumulator, being prepared
for fluid spillage (see illustration).
5When refitting, fit a new O-ring to the base
of the accumulator. Fit the accumulator and
tighten it.
6Reconnect the battery. Switch on the
ignition and check that the hydraulic unit
pump stops within 60 seconds. If not, there
may be something wrong with the
accumulator.
7Bleed the complete hydraulic system as
described in Section 2.
17Hydraulic unit accumulator -
removal and refitting
16Hydraulic unit fluid reservoir -
removal and refitting
Braking system 10•9
10
15.7 Four nuts (arrowed) which hold the
hydraulic unit to the bulkhead
16.4 Undoing the reservoir securing screw16.5a Extract the spring clip . . .
16.6 Removing the hydraulic fluid reservoir
16.5b . . . and disconnect the hose
16.7 The spigot locating bush fits into this
union17.4 Removing the accumulator
Note O-ring (arrowed)
procarmanuals.com

The steering gear is of rack-and-pinion type.
Power assistance is standard on V6 models
and optional on others. The power-assisted
steering gear has a “variable ratio” effect
which increases the steering ratio about the
straight-ahead position: this provides quick
lock-to-lock action without the penalty of
over-responsiveness in open road driving.
The steering wheel is adjustable both up-
and-down and fore-and-aft. Both steering
column and shaft are designed to collapse
under impact. The steering shaft is connected
to the pinion by an intermediate shaft, which
has a universal joint at its upper end and a
flexible coupling at the lower end.
Front suspension is independent, of the
MacPherson strut type, with coil springs and
concentric telescopic shock absorbers. The
struts are attached to the tops of the stub axle
carriers, which are located at their lower ends
by balljoints incorporated in the lower
suspension arms. The lower suspension arms
pivot at their inner ends, where they are
attached to a central crossmember. The anti-
roll bar is attached to the rear of the arms and
serves to control fore-and-aft movement as
well as reducing roll.
Suspension geometry has been designed to
give good steering “feel”, resistance to pulling
caused by uneven braking effort or tyre
deflation, and (in the case of manual steering)
acceptably low steering wheel effort at parking
speeds. Only toe is adjustable in service.
The rear suspension is also independent. It
is of the semi-trailing arm type, with coil
springs and separate telescopic shock
absorbers. An optionally-available ride height
control system keeps the rear suspension
height constant, regardless of vehicle load.
Both front and rear wheel bearings are of a
special taper-roller type and require no
periodic adjustment in service.1Refer to Chapter 1, Section 35, to check the
power steering fluid level.
2If the fluid level falls so low that air enters
the pump, or after component renewal, the
system must be bled as follows.
3Remove the reservoir filler cap. Top-up with
clean fluid to the appropriate “cold” level. It is
important that the fluid is free of air bubbles,
so do not shake the container when topping-
up, and pour the fluid slowly.
4Disconnect the negative LT lead from the
ignition coil. Have an assistant crank the
engine on the starter in two second bursts, at
the same time turning the steering wheel from
lock to lock. Keep the reservoir topped up
whilst this is going on.
5When air bubbles no longer appear in the
fluid, stop the cranking. Reconnect the coil
negative lead and run the engine for a few
seconds, then stop it and check the level
again. Refit the filler cap.
6Run the vehicle for a few miles to warm up
the fluid and expel any remaining air, then stop
the engine and make a final fluid level check.
Manual steering
1Position the steering in the straight-ahead
position, then remove the ignition key so that
the steering is locked.
2Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and
support the front of the vehicle and remove
the front wheels.
3Remove the pinch-bolt and nut which
secure the intermediate shaft flexible coupling
to the pinion shaft (see illustration).
4Slacken the track rod end locknuts by half a
turn each (see illustration).
5Remove the split pin from the track rod
balljoint nuts. Unscrew the nuts, break the
balljoint tapers using a separator tool anddisengage the track rod ends from the
steering arms.
6Remove the two bolts which secure the
steering gear to the crossmember. Lift out the
steering gear.
7Mark the positions of the track rod ends on
the track rods, using paint or sticky tape, so
that they can be refitted in approximately the
same positions. Unscrew the track rod ends
and locknuts.
8Commence refitting by screwing on the
locknuts and track rod ends, observing the
previously made position marks when
applicable.
9Bring the rack to the straight-ahead
position. Do this by counting the number of
turns of the pinion needed to go from lock to
lock, then applying half that number of turns
from full lock on one side.
10Offer the steering gear to the vehicle,
engaging the flexible coupling and loosely
fitting the securing bolts. Note that the master
spline on the pinion shaft mates with the
corresponding groove in the flexible coupling.
11Tighten the two steering gear-to-
crossmember bolts to the specified Stage 1
torque. Slacken the bolts and retighten to the
Stage 2 torque. Finally tighten the bolts
through the angle specified for Stage 3.
12Make sure that the flexible coupling and
pinion shaft are properly engaged, then fit the
pinch-bolt and nut. Tighten the pinch-bolt to
the specified torque.
3Steering gear - removal and
refitting
2Power steering fluid - level
check and bleeding1General information
Steering and suspension 11•3
11
3.3 Master spline and groove on pinion
shaft and coupling
Torque wrench settings (continued)Nmlbf ft
Rear suspension
Driveshaft stub axle nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250 to 290180 to 210
Final drive mounting to floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Final drive mounting to rear cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 to 5030 to 37
Guide plate-to-floor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 to 5130 to 38
Guide plate insulator bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 to 8851 to 65
Lower arm to crossmember . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 to 9559 to 70
Brake anchor plate to lower arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 to 6438 to 47
Anti-roll bar bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Shock absorber mountings:
Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73 to 9754 to 72
Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 to 9250 to 68
Rear hub bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 to 10059 to 74
Wheels
Wheel nuts (steel or alloy wheels) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 10052 to 74
procarmanuals.com

reference to horn switch plate retaining
screws. Note that the wheel is retained by a
bolt, not a nut as on earlier models. To gain
access to the bolt, prise out the horn button
and disconnect the wiring connectors.
1This operation is for correcting small errors
in steering wheel centralisation - up to 60°. For
larger errors, remove the steering wheel and
make a rough correction by repositioning the
wheel on refitting.
2Drive the vehicle in a straight line on a level
surface. Note the angle by which the steering
wheel deviates from the desired straight-
ahead position.
3Raise the front of the vehicle by driving it
onto ramps, or with a jack and axle stands
(see “Jacking”).
4Slacken both track rod end locknuts. Also
slacken the steering rack bellows outer clips.
5Make alignment marks between each track
rod end and its rod, so that the amount of
rotation applied can be accurately determined.
6Turn both track rodsin the same direction
to correct the steering wheel position. As a
rough guide, 19°of track rod rotation will
change the steering wheel position by 1°. To
correct error at the steering wheel, rotate both
track rods anti-clockwise (viewed from the
left-hand side of the vehicle), and the reverse
to correct as anti-clockwise errors. Both track
rods must be rotated by the same amount.
7Tighten the bellows clips and the track rod
end locknuts when adjustment is correct.
Lower the vehicle.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Position the steering in the straight-ahead
position.
3Remove the steering wheel. This is not
essential, but will improve access.
4Working under the bonnet, disconnect the
intermediate shaft universal joint from the
steering column shaft.5Remove the steering column shrouds and
disconnect the switch multi-plugs. Do not
forget the ignition/starter switch.
6Disconnect the bonnet release cable from the
operating lever on the underside of the column.
7Prise out the driver’s side air vent. Remove
the under-dash insulation and trim panel on
the driver’s side, unclipping the bulb failure
module, where applicable.
8Remove the three nuts which secure the
column height adjuster to the mounting bracket
(see illustration). Remove the column assembly
by drawing it into the vehicle. Do not drop it or
otherwise mistreat it if it is to be re-used.9When refitting, have an assistant guide the
column shaft into the intermediate shaft
universal joint. Secure the column with the
three nuts inside the vehicle and adjust it to
the minimum length position, then tighten the
coupling pinch-bolt.
10Complete refitting by reversing the
removal operations.
1Remove the steering column (see
illustration).
2Insert the key into the lock and turn it to
position 1. (If the lock has failed so that the key
will not enter, destructive methods will have to
be used.)
8Steering column lock - removal
and refitting
7Steering column - removal and
refitting
6Steering wheel - centralising
Steering and suspension 11•5
11
7.8 Two of the three nuts (arrowed) which
secure the column height adjuster
8.1 View of steering wheel and column
A Steering wheel
B Mounting bracket and
spring
C Thrust washer and spring
D Lower bearingE Height adjuster
F Column shaft and spire
washer
G Multi-function switchH Ignition/steering lock
I Horn brush unit
J Upper bearing
K Multi-function switch
Make alignment marks
between the two shafts for
reference when reassembling.
procarmanuals.com

3Depress the locking button with a small
screwdriver. Draw the lock barrel out of its
housing using the key (see illustration).
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1The intermediate shaft and flexible coupling
are not available separately, and so must be
renewed as a unit.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Position the steering straight-ahead.
4Remove the pinch-bolts which secure the
upper and lower ends of the intermediate
shaft. Free the universal joint from the column
shaft, then pull the flexible coupling off the
pinion shaft.
5When refitting, engage the master spline on
the pinion shaft with the groove in the flexible
coupling.
6Tighten the pinch-bolts to the specified
torque.
7Reconnect the battery.
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 21.
All engines except DOHC
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Wipe clean around the unions, then
disconnect the high pressure and return pipes
from the pump and the reservoir. Be prepared
for fluid spillage; take steps to keep fluid out of
the alternator.
3Remove the pump drivebelt(s).
4Remove the pump mounting, pivot and
adjustment bolts (as applicable) and lift the
pump from the engine (see illustration).
5If a new pump is to be fitted, recover the
pulley and mounting plate from the old pump.6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Adjust the drivebelt tension on completion and
bleed the steering hydraulic system.
DOHC engines
7The pump is mounted on a bracket on the
front right-hand side of the cylinder block. To
improve access to the pump, firmly apply the
handbrake then jack up the front of the car
and support it securely on axle stands (see
“Jacking”).
8Place a suitable container under the pump,
unscrew the fluid pipe unions, and drain the
fluid.
9Remove the drivebelt with reference to
Chapter 1.
10Prevent the pulley from rotating using a
strap wrench (which can be improvised using
an old drivebelt and a large socket and
wrench), and unscrew the three pulley
securing bolts (see illustration). Withdraw the
pulley.
11Unscrew the three pump securing bolts
from the front of the pump bracket, and the
single bolt from the rear of the bracket, and
withdraw the pump (see illustration).
12Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
a)Reconnect the fluid unions using new O-
rings.
b)On completion, top-up and bleed the
power steering fluid circuit.1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Clean around the hose unions on the
steering gear. Remove the single securing
bolt, withdraw the hoses and catch the fluid
which will drain from the reservoir.
3Clean around the hose unions on the pump.
Disconnect the unions and remove the hoses.
4Refit in the reverse order to removal, using
new O-rings.
5Top-up the steering fluid and bleed the
system.
1Slacken the front wheel nuts, raise and
support the vehicle and remove the front
wheel on the side concerned.
2Slacken the track rod end locknut by half a
turn.
3Remove the split pin from the track rod end
balljoint nut. Unscrew the nut a few turns (see
illustration).
4Break the balljoint taper with a proprietary
balljoint separator (see illustration). Remove
the separator and the nut and disengage the
track rod end from the steering arm.
5Unscrew the track rod end from the track
rod, being careful not to disturb the locknut.
13Track rod end - removal and
refitting
12Power steering hoses -
removal and refitting
11Power steering pump -
removal and refitting
10Power steering pump
drivebelt - removal, refitting
and tensioning
9Steering intermediate shaft
and flexible coupling - removal
and refitting
11•6Steering and suspension
8.3 Depress the column lock locking button
11.11 . . . for access to the front pump
securing bolts (arrowed)13.3 Track rod end balljoint nut unscrewed
11.4 Steering pump pivot bolt (arrowed) -
V6 model shown11.10 Unbolt the power steering pump
pulley . . .
procarmanuals.com

1With the strut removed, clamp it in a vice
with protected jaws.2Remove the stub axle carrier pinch-bolts.
Spread the carrier by carefully introducing a
chisel or blunt screwdriver into the crack, then
slide it off the strut (see illustration).
3Fit spring compressors to the strut.
Compress the spring until it is no longer
tensioning the strut. Make sure that the
compressors are secure (see illustration).
4Hold the piston rod with a hexagon key and
remove the piston rod nut. Also remove the
dished retainer.
5Remove the top mount, the bearing and the
spring upper seat(see illustration).
6Carefully lift off the compressed spring.
Place it where it will not be knocked or jarred.
7Remove the shock absorber gaiter and
bump stop.
8Examine all components for wear and
damage and renew as necessary. The shock
absorber must be renewed if it is leaking, or if
it shows uneven resistance when “worked”
with its lower end clamped in a vice. In theory
springs and shock absorbers should be
renewed in pairs in order to maintain balanced
handling characteristics.
9Commence reassembly by sliding the bump
stop onto the shock absorber piston rod. Refit
the gaiter.
10Make sure that the spring seats are clean,
then fit the compressed spring to the lower
seat.
11Refit the spring upper seat, the bearing
(small hole upwards) and the top mount.
12Refit the dished retainer and the piston rod
nut. Hold the piston rod and tighten the nut.13Carefully release the spring compressors.
Make sure that the ends of the spring are
correctly located in the spring seats.
14Spread the stub axle carrier again. Slide it
onto the strut, remove the spreader and refit
the pinch-bolt. Tighten the pinch-bolt to the
specified torque.
15Refit the strut to the vehicle.
Models before 1987
1Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it
securely under the frame rails.
2Remove the exhaust system.
3Remove the propeller shaft.
4Release the handbrake cable from the
equaliser yoke by removing the circlip from the
handbrake lever pin. Release the cable from
its floor brackets.
5Disconnect the brake flexible hoses from
the rear brake pipes.
6Disconnect the ABS and brake pad wear
sensor wires (as applicable). Free the wires
from the suspension lower arms.
7Unbolt the two anti-roll bar brackets from
the floors.
8Disconnect the ride height control sensor
and the shock absorber air lines, when so
equipped.
9Lower the vehicle onto its wheels in order to
load the rear springs a little. Place a jack under
the final drive unit and support it.
10Unbolt and remove the two guide plates
(see illustrations). The centre bolt on each
plate is retained by a lockwasher which must
be released first.
11Unbolt the final drive unit rear mounting
from the floor.
12Remove the luggage area side trim, then
remove the rear shock absorber upper
mounting bolts.
13Raise and support the rear of the vehicle
again. Withdraw the rear suspension and final
drive assembly.
14Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Tighten all fastenings to the specified torque,
when known. When applicable use new O-
rings on the ride height control line unions.
23Rear suspension and final
drive assembly - removal and
refitting
22Front suspension strut -
dismantling and reassembly
11•10Steering and suspension
22.2 Spreading the stub axle carrier clamp22.3 Spring compressors fitted to a front suspension strut
22.5 Front suspension strut components
A Top mount
B Bearing
C Spring upper seat
D Spring
E GaiterF Bump stop
G Shock absorber
and spring lower
seat
H Stub axle
Warning: Spring compressors of
adequate rating must be used for
this job. The use of makeshift or
inadequate equipment may result
in damage and personal injury.
23.10a One of the rear suspension guide
plates
procarmanuals.com

important also to keep watch on those parts of
the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment.
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud, which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically
enough, the best time to clean the underframe
and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the
mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-
based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the underframe
of the vehicle steam-cleaned, engine
compartment included, so that a thorough
inspection can be carried out to see what
minor repairs and renovations are necessary.
Steam-cleaning is available at many garages,
and is necessary for the removal of the
accumulation of oily grime, which sometimes
is allowed to become thick in certain areas. If
steam-cleaning facilities are not available,
there are some excellent grease solvents
available which can be brush-applied; the dirt
can then be simply hosed off. Note that these
methods should not be used on vehicles with
wax-based underbody protective coating, or
the coating will be removed. Such vehicles
should be inspected annually, preferably just
prior to Winter, when the underbody should be
washed down, and any damage to the wax
coating repaired. Ideally, a completely fresh
coat should be applied. It would also be worth
considering the use of such wax-based
protection for injection into door panels, sills,
box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard
against rust damage, where such protection is
not provided by the vehicle manufacturer.
After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish will
give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has
dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to
avoid damage to the finish. Always check that
the door and ventilator opening drain holes
and pipes are completely clear, so that water
can be drained out. Brightwork should be
treated in the same way as paintwork.
Windscreens and windows can be kept clear
of the smeary film which often appears, by theuse of proprietary glass cleaner. Never use
any form of wax or other body or chromium
polish on glass.
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more
apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the material.
Do not forget to keep the headlining clean in
the same way as the upholstery. When using
liquid cleaners inside the vehicle, do not over-
wet the surfaces being cleaned. Excessive
damp could get into the seams and padded
interior, causing stains, offensive odours or
even rot. If the inside of the vehicle gets wet
accidentally, it is worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry it out properly, particularly
where carpets are involved. Do not leave oil or
electric heaters inside the vehicle for this
purpose.
Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of the
scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a very
fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint from
the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique is
required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smoothcotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being “belled-
out”.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
The next stage of the repair is the removal
of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.
To complete the repair, see the Section on
filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes in
bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area, and
from an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire
brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide whether
to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or
4Minor body damage - repair
3Maintenance - upholstery and
carpets
12•2Bodywork and fittings
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the door through the large cut-out. Further
displacement or removal of the foamrubber
sheet may be necessary.
7Refit in the reverse order to removal, noting
the following points:
a)Apply a little grease to the interior handle
rods where they pass through the plastic
bushes
b)When securing the interior handle, have
the locking lever in the “unlocked”
position, hold the assembly forwards as
far as itwill go and tighten the securing
screw
c)Check all functions before refitting the trim
panel.
Door weatherstrip
1Open the door and remove the weatherstrip
securing screw from the latch end. In the case
of the rear door, also remove the screw from
the hinge end.
2Carefully lift the latch end of the
weatherstrip and pull it off the door.
3Refit by reversing the removal operations,
using your palm to seat the weatherstrip.
Aperture weatherstrip
4Open the door. Remove the scuff plate
securing screws from the bottom of the door
aperture.
5Pull the old weatherstrip out of the door
aperture.
6Fit the new weatherstrip, starting at the
right-angled corner at the top. Fit the
weatherstrip to the other corners and bends,
leaving the straight sections until last.
7Refit the scuff, plate securing screws.
All models except Estate
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the tailgate interior trim panel,
which is secured by eleven screws.
3Remove the six nuts which secure the
tailgate handle. Remove the handle and
recover the gasket.
4Disconnect the tailgate lock switch multi-
plug. Release the switch locking tab and
remove the switch.
5Disconnect the operating rod from the lock
lever (see illustration). Extract the U-clip and
remove the lock barrel.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Estate models
7The tailgate lock barrel can be removed and
refitted as described above, bearing in mind
the notes made in Section 8 when removing
the interior trim panels and noting that the lock
assembly is retained by two Torx bolts.1Open up the boot lid and remove the trim
panel from the inside of the lid.
2Unscrew the four boot lid exterior trim
retaining panel bolts (two situated on each
side of the lock) then carefully prise out the
nine panel retaining clips and remove the
panel from the boot lid.
3Undo the two lock barrel retaining nuts then
partially withdraw the barrel and disconnect the
wiring connector and lock operating rod from
the barrel. Remove the lock barrel from the lid.
4Undo the four lid lock retaining bolts then
withdraw the lock assembly from the boot lid,
disconnecting the central locking and warning
switch wiring plugs (see illustration).
5Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure tightening all retaining bolts
securely. On completion check the operation
of the boot lid lock and lock barrel before
refitting the trim panel.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the tailgate interior trim panel,
which is secured by eleven screws.
3Unhook the operating rod from the tailgate
latch. Also disconnect the lock switch and
solenoid multi-plugs.4Remove the three bolts which secure the
tailgate latch. Remove the latch.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Open the tailgate and support it with a piece
of wood.
2Release the strut from its mountings by
raising the spring clips with a small
screwdriver, then pulling the strut off the ball-
stands. Do not raise the clips more than 4 mm
(0.16 in) if the strut is to be re-used.
3Do not attempt to dismantle a strut, and
dispose of it safely. It contains gas under
pressure.
4To refit a strut, position it over the ball-
studs. Push on each end in turn until it snaps
home.
1Open the fuel filler flap. Remove the key.
2Apply pressure to the lock barrel at the key
slot, using the thumb of one hand. With the
other hand insert a screwdriver into the cut-
out in the filler flap to release the lock barrel
retaining spring. As the spring is released,
thumb pressure will eject the lock barrel into
the petrol tank (see illustration).
3To refit, push the lock barrel into the flap
until the retaining spring clicks home.
Front door
1Open the door and remove the screws
which secure the front and rear edges of the
trim panel (see illustration).
2Remove the two screws from under the
covers on the door pocket. Unclip and remove
the pocket.
3On models with electrically-operated
windows and mirrors, prise out and disconnect
the window and mirror switches. The window
switch multi-plugs on the driver’s side are
22Door interior trim panel -
removal and refitting
21Fuel filler lock barrel -
removal and refitting
20Tailgate strut - removal and
refitting
19Tailgate latch assembly -
removal and refitting
18Boot lid lock barrel - removal
and refitting
17Tailgate lock barrel - removal
and refitting
16Door weatherstrip - removal
and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 12•7
12
17.5 Operating rod (arrowed) connected to
tailgate lock lever18.4 Boot lid lock retaining bolts (arrowed)
- Saloon models
21.2 Removing the fuel filler flap lock barrel
procarmanuals.com

Later models
7The radiator grille of these models can be
removed and refitted as described above,
noting that it will also be necessary to remove
the headlamp wiper arms (where fitted) before
the grille can be removed. To remove a wiper
arm, lift the cover to gain access to the
retaining nut then undo the nut and pull the
arm off the spindle (see illustration). On
refitting, position the arm so that it is correctly
aligned with the base of the headlamp and
locate it on the spindle splines. Refit the
spindle nut and tighten it securely.
1Prise the centre insert out of the moulding
with a screwdriver.
2Remove the securing screws and pull off the
moulding. In the case of the door mouldings,
note that the ends are also secured with
adhesive tape (see illustration).
3Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Use new adhesive tape when necessary.
1A blind rivet gun will be needed for this job.
2Open the front doors. Remove the gutter
weatherstrip, making sure to release the
bottom flap which is glued to the A-pillar.
3Drill out the five rivets which secure the side
moulding. The side moulding can now be
removed
4Repeat the operations on the other side of
the vehicle, then remove the upper moulding
by pulling it upwards.
5Commence refitting by pushing the upper
moulding onto its clips. Make sure it is
centrally aligned.
6Refit the side mouldings and secure them
with new blind rivets.
7Clean and degrease the gutter weatherstrip
flaps, then glue them in position and refit the
weatherstrips.1Open the tailgate. From inside remove the
two nuts which secure the upper moulding
and the two screws which secure the lower
moulding. Close the tailgate.
2Prise off the lower moulding and fittings.
3Pull off the side mouldings, which are
clipped to the edge of the glass.
4To remove the upper moulding, carefully lift
one end. Free the moulding from its clips,
working from the lifted end, and remove it.
5To remove the lower moulding, simply pull it
from its clips.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that the upper and lower mouldings
are centred before securing them.
1A blind rivet gun will be needed to refit some
of these mouldings.
2Commence by removing the door
weatherstrip.
Front door
3Remove the nut which secures the upper
moulding. Carefully prise the upper moulding
off the door.
4Prise the edge moulding out of the window
channel, then twist it and remove it. 5Remove the door mirror.
6Drill out the rivet which secures the front
corner moulding. Remove the moulding.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations,
using a new blind rivet to secure the corner
moulding.
Rear door
8Remove the nut securing the upper moulding
to the front top corner of the door. Carefully pull
the moulding from the door, separating the
stud and bush fitting at the rear end.
9Drill out the rivet which secures the rear
moulding to the top of the door. Separate the
rear moulding flange from the door and
window channel and remove it by twisting it.
10Remove the front moulding by separating
the weatherstrip from the back of it and lifting
the moulding from the door.
11Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Use a new rivet to secure the rear moulding.
1A blind rivet gun will be needed to refit the
moulding.
2Open the rear door. Drill out the rivets which
secure the weatherstrip to the mouldings.
3Drill out the top rivet and remove the upper
moulding from its studs.
4Open the tailgate, drill out the lower
moulding rivet and remove the lower moulding
from its clips.
5Drill out the three rivets which secure the
side moulding. Remove the side moulding.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations,
using new rivets to secure the mouldings.
1The bonnet emblem, tailgate motif and
other badges are glued in place. They may be
removed by using a piece of thin braided nylon
cord, making a back-and-forth motion to cut
through the adhesive.
2Clean old adhesive from the bonnet or boot
lid using methylated spirit.
3If a new emblem is to be fitted, warm it (for
instance with a hairdryer) until it is warm to the
touch. Peel the backing paper off the adhesive
surface and press the emblem into position,
making sure that it is properly aligned. Hold
the emblem in place for at least half a minute
to allow the glue to set.
1Front bumper height is easily adjusted by
means of the two adjusters incorporated in the
front mountings (see illustration). A Torx key
to fit the locking bolt and a 24 mm socket will
be required.
34Front bumper - height
adjustment
33Motifs and emblems -
removal and refitting
32Rear quarter window
moulding - removal and
refitting
31Door window frame
mouldings - removal and
refitting
30Tailgate window mouldings -
removal and refitting
29Windscreen mouldings -
removal and refitting
28Side mouldings - removal and
refitting
12•10Bodywork and fittings
27.5 Removing the radiator grille centre
section
A Raise tangB Twist apart
27.7 Removing a headlamp wiper arm
28.2 Door side mouldings
A ScrewsB Adhesive tape
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