key FORD GRANADA 1985 Service Owner's Guide

Heated rear window switch
Models before April 1992
50Remove the instrument panel surround,
which is secured by four screws.
51Carefully prise the switch from its location,
disconnect the multi-plug and remove it.
Models from April 1992
52Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver,
carefully prise the switch out of the centre
facia vent panel and disconnect the wiring
connector.
53On refitting, reconnect the wiring
connector and push the switch in until it clicks
into position.
Foglight switch(es)
54These are removed in the same way as the
heated rear window switch (see illustration).
Hazard warning switch
55This is integral with the direction indicator
switch.
Front seat adjusting switch
56Remove the seat trim panel.
57Prise the operating levers off the switch
with a thin-bladed screwdriver (see
illustration).
58Remove the two securing screws,
withdraw the switch and unplug it.
Rear seat adjusting switch
59This is removed in the same way as the
mirror control switch already described in
paragraphs 10 and 11.
Heated seat control switches
60These are removed in the same way as the
mirror control switch already described in
paragraphs 10 and 11.
Starter inhibitor/reversing light
switch (automatic transmission)
61Refer to Chapter 7 part B.
Fuses
1The battery positive (live) lead is protected
by a fusible link. If this link melts, a major
short-circuit is indicated and expert advice
should be sought before repairing it.
2The main fuse/relay box is located under the
bonnet, near the bulkhead on the right-hand
side. It contains up to 24 fuses and nearly as
many relays (according to equipment). Fuse
applications are listed on the underside of the
fuse box lid (see illustration).
3There is an auxiliary fuse box inside the
vehicle, accessible after opening the glovebox
(see illustration). An in-line fuse for the radio
is located under the facia on the left-hand
side, near the heater.4The“blade” type fuses are colour-coded to
show their current rating. A blown fuse can be
recognised by the melted wire link in the
middle.
5To renew a blown fuse, first switch off the
circuit concerned. Pull the old fuse out of its
holder, using tweezers or long-nosed pliers.
Press in a new fuse of the same rating and try
the circuit again.
6If the new fuse blows immediately or within
a short time, do not carry on renewing fuses
but look for a short-circuit in the wiring to the
item(s) protected by the fuse. When more than
one item is protected by a single fuse,
switching on one item at a time until the fuse
blows will help to isolate the defect.
7Never fit a fuse of a higher rating (current
capacity) than specified, and do not bypass
fuses with silver foil or strands of wire. Serious
damage, including fire, could result.
8In some positions (such as for power
window and seat adjustment motors) circuit
breakers are fitted instead of fuses. These are
normally self-resetting once the cause of the
overload has been cleared.
Relays
9If a circuit or system served by a relay
develops a fault, always remember that the
problem could be in the relay. Testing is by
substitution of a known good unit. Beware of
substituting relays which look the same but
perform different functions(see illustration).10To renew a relay, simply unplug it from its
holder and plug in the new one. Access to the
relays in the main fuse box is as described for
the fuses. Access to the relays located behind
the facia is achieved by removing the facia
top.
11The sliding roof relay is located in the
overhead console.
Control units and modules
12The two major modules are the EEC IV
module (on fuel-injection models) and the ABS
control module. These are located below the
glovebox on the passenger side, and are
accessible after removing the under-dash trim.
13As with relays, testing by the home
mechanic is limited to substitution of known
good units. This is likely to be prohibitively
expensive on a trial and error basis so in case
of problems a Ford dealer or other competent
specialist should be consulted at an early
stage.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead and
unlock all the doors before starting work on
the central locking system. Make sure that the
keys are outside the vehicle before
reconnecting the battery on completion.
2Remove the door interior trim panel.
17Central locking motor -
removal and refitting
16Fuses, relays and control
units - removal and refitting
Body electrical system 13•13
13
15.54 Removing a foglight switch15.57 Removing the front seat adjusting
switch
16.2 Main fuse/relay box under the bonnet16.3 Auxiliary fuse box in the glovebox
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High frequency units
14Remove the instrument panel surround
and the facia top.
15Remove the two screws which secure the
speaker bracket. Disconnect the wiring and
withdraw the speaker and bracket together.
The screws which secure the speaker to the
bracket can then be removed (see
illustration).
16Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Hatchback
1The heated rear window element is used as
the radio aerial. To produce a good signal at
the radio a pre-amplifier, mounted in the
tailgate, is used.
2Remove the tailgate interior trim panel,
which is secured by eleven screws.
3Remove the two screws which secure the
pre-amplifier (see illustration). Disconnect the
wiring from the pre-amplifier and remove it.
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Saloon
5On these models the pre-amplifier unit is
located under the rear parcel shelf and can be
accessed from within the boot.
6To remove the unit, from within the boot,
slacken and remove the two retaining screwsthen lower the pre-amplifier out of position
and disconnect the wiring connectors (see
illustration).
7Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Estate
8On Estate models the pre-amplifier unit is
situated in the roof, just in front of the tailgate.
9To remove the pre-amplifier, open up the
tailgate then carefully release the headlining
from all the relevant trim panels and peel it
back until access to the unit can be gained.
10Undo the two retaining screws then lower
the unit out from the roof and disconnect the
wiring connectors.
11Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure ensuring that the headlining is
neatly fitted and correctly located behind all
the relevant trim panels.
1This Section deals with the facia-mounted
control. On models with a graphic equaliser, the
joystick fader is incorporated in the equaliser.
2Remove the instrument cluster.
3Prise out the fader surround and detach the
bulbholder (see illustration).
4Release the fader control by turning its
retaining clip anticlockwise. Withdraw it from
the facia and disconnect its multi-plug.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.1Pull the heater control knob off its lever.
Remove the two retaining screws from the top
corners of the rear console faceplate.
2Pull off the balance and volume control
knobs. Withdraw the console and disconnect
the wiring from it.
3The console may be removed from the face
plate if wished by undoing the three retaining
screws.
4To renew the console bulbs, extract the
bulbholders by grasping with pliers and
turning them anti-clockwise.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1The rear headphone relay is located behind
the facia, next to the AWS control assembly
and the speed control module (when fitted). Its
function is to mute the loudspeakers when the
headphones are plugged into the rear
entertainment console.
2To remove the relay, first remove the AWS
control assembly and (if applicable) the speed
control unit.
3Disconnect the relay multi-plug, undo its
securing screw and nut and remove it.
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
The alarm system is available as an optional
extra. On vehicles so equipped, the alarm is
automatically set by locking the driver’s or
front passenger’s door with the key. After a
brief delay (approximately 20 seconds), the
alarm will be set off if the doors, bonnet or
tailgate are opened.
The only way to disarm the alarm system is
by unlocking one of the front doors with the
key. Even if the key is used to open the
tailgate, if the alarm is set it will go off.
36Anti-theft alarm system
components - removal and
refitting
35Rear headphone relay -
removal and refitting
34Rear entertainment console -
removal and refitting
33Joystick fader control -
removal and refitting
32Radio aerial pre-amplifier
(original equipment) - removal
and refitting
13•22Body electrical system
31.8 Removing a rear speaker retaining
bolt
32.6 Radio aerial pre-amplifier retaining
screws (arrowed)33.3 Removing the joystick fader
31.15 High frequency loudspeaker located
under the facia top. One bracket securing
screw (arrowed) is visible32.3 Radio aerial pre-amplifier mounted in
the tailgate
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Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For
the owner who does not possess any, their
purchase will prove a considerable expense,
offsetting some of the savings made by doing-
it-yourself. However, provided that the tools
purchased meet the relevant national safety
standards and are of good quality, they will
last for many years and prove an extremely
worthwhile investment.
To help the average owner to decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings:
Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with the
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaultool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Specialcategory when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance and minor repair tool
kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
MCombination spanners:
Metric - 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17 &
19 mmMAdjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx)
MGearbox and final drive filler/level plug keys
MSpark plug spanner (with rubber insert)
MSpark plug gap adjustment tool
MSet of feeler blades
MBrake bleed nipple spanner
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - approx 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
Cross blade - approx 100 mm long x 6 mm
dia
MCombination pliers
MHacksaw (junior)
MTyre pump
MTyre pressure gauge
MOil can
MOil filter removal tool
MFine emery cloth
MWire brush (small)
MFunnel (medium size)
Repair and overhaul tool kit
These tools are virtually essential for anyone
undertaking any major repairs to a motor
vehicle, and are additional to those given in the
Maintenance and minor repairlist. Included in
this list is a comprehensive set of sockets.
Although these are expensive, they will be
found invaluable as they are so versatile -
particularly if various drives are included in the
set. We recommend the half-inch square-drive
type, as this can be used with most proprietary
torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket
set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive
tubular box spanners are a useful alternative.
The tools in this list will occasionally need to
be supplemented by tools from the Special
list:
MSockets (or box spanners) to cover range in
previous list (including Torx sockets)*
MReversible ratchet drive (for use with
sockets) (see illustration)
MExtension piece, 250 mm (for use with
sockets)
MUniversal joint (for use with sockets)
MTorque wrench (for use with sockets)
MSelf-locking grips
MBall pein hammerMSoft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or
rubber)
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade - Long & sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
MPliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)
MCold chisel - 25 mm
MScriber
MScraper
MCentre-punch
MPin punch
MHacksaw
MBrake hose clamp
MBrake/clutch bleeding kit
MSelection of twist drills
MSteel rule/straight-edge
MAllen keys (inc. splined/Torx type) (see
illustration)
MSelection of files
MWire brush
MAxle stands
MJack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
MLight with extension lead
* Some Imperial sized nuts and bolts may be
found on air conditioning and automatic
transmission components
Special tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturer’s instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy many
of these tools. Where this is the case, you
could consider clubbing together with friends
(or joining a motorists’ club) to make a joint
purchase, or borrowing the tools against a
deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large range
of special tools for hire at modest rates.
REF•1
Spline bit setValve spring compressorSockets and reversible ratchet drive
Tools and Working Facilities
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REF•12Glossary of Technical Terms
A
ABS (Anti-lock brake system)A system,
usually electronically controlled, that senses
incipient wheel lockup during braking and
relieves hydraulic pressure at wheels that are
about to skid.
Air bag An inflatable bag hidden in the
steering wheel (driver’s side) or the dash or
glovebox (passenger side). In a head-on
collision, the bags inflate, preventing the
driver and front passenger from being thrown
forward into the steering wheel or windscreen.
Air cleanerA metal or plastic housing,
containing a filter element, which removes
dust and dirt from the air being drawn into the
engine.
Air filter elementThe actual filter in an air
cleaner system, usually manufactured from
pleated paper and requiring renewal at regular
intervals.
Allen keyA hexagonal wrench which fits into
a recessed hexagonal hole.
Alligator clipA long-nosed spring-loaded
metal clip with meshing teeth. Used to make
temporary electrical connections.
AlternatorA component in the electrical
system which converts mechanical energy
from a drivebelt into electrical energy to
charge the battery and to operate the starting
system, ignition system and electrical
accessories.
Ampere (amp)A unit of measurement for the
flow of electric current. One amp is the
amount of current produced by one volt
acting through a resistance of one ohm.
Anaerobic sealerA substance used to
prevent bolts and screws from loosening.
Anaerobic means that it does not require
oxygen for activation. The Loctite brand is
widely used.
AntifreezeA substance (usually ethylene
glycol) mixed with water, and added to a
vehicle’s cooling system, to prevent freezing
of the coolant in winter. Antifreeze also
contains chemicals to inhibit corrosion and
the formation of rust and other deposits that
would tend to clog the radiator and coolant
passages and reduce cooling efficiency.
Anti-seize compoundA coating that
reduces the risk of seizing on fasteners that
are subjected to high temperatures, such as
exhaust manifold bolts and nuts.
AsbestosA natural fibrous mineral with great
heat resistance, commonly used in the
composition of brake friction materials.Asbestos is a health hazard and the dust
created by brake systems should never be
inhaled or ingested.
AxleA shaft on which a wheel revolves, or
which revolves with a wheel. Also, a solid
beam that connects the two wheels at one
end of the vehicle. An axle which also
transmits power to the wheels is known as a
live axle.
AxleshaftA single rotating shaft, on either
side of the differential, which delivers power
from the final drive assembly to the drive
wheels. Also called a driveshaft or a halfshaft.
BBall bearingAn anti-friction bearing
consisting of a hardened inner and outer race
with hardened steel balls between two races.
BearingThe curved surface on a shaft or in a
bore, or the part assembled into either, that
permits relative motion between them with
minimum wear and friction.
Big-end bearingThe bearing in the end of
the connecting rod that’s attached to the
crankshaft.
Bleed nippleA valve on a brake wheel
cylinder, caliper or other hydraulic component
that is opened to purge the hydraulic system
of air. Also called a bleed screw.
Brake bleedingProcedure for removing air
from lines of a hydraulic brake system.
Brake discThe component of a disc brake
that rotates with the wheels.Brake drumThe component of a drum brake
that rotates with the wheels.
Brake liningsThe friction material which
contacts the brake disc or drum to retard the
vehicle’s speed. The linings are bonded or
riveted to the brake pads or shoes.
Brake padsThe replaceable friction pads
that pinch the brake disc when the brakes are
applied. Brake pads consist of a friction
material bonded or riveted to a rigid backing
plate.
Brake shoeThe crescent-shaped carrier to
which the brake linings are mounted and
which forces the lining against the rotating
drum during braking.
Braking systemsFor more information on
braking systems, consult the Haynes
Automotive Brake Manual.
Breaker barA long socket wrench handle
providing greater leverage.
BulkheadThe insulated partition between
the engine and the passenger compartment.
CCaliperThe non-rotating part of a disc-brake
assembly that straddles the disc and carries
the brake pads. The caliper also contains the
hydraulic components that cause the pads to
pinch the disc when the brakes are applied. A
caliper is also a measuring tool that can be set
to measure inside or outside dimensions of an
object.
CamshaftA rotating shaft on which a series
of cam lobes operate the valve mechanisms.
The camshaft may be driven by gears, by
sprockets and chain or by sprockets and a
belt.
CanisterA container in an evaporative
emission control system; contains activated
charcoal granules to trap vapours from the
fuel system.
CarburettorA device which mixes fuel with
air in the proper proportions to provide a
desired power output from a spark ignition
internal combustion engine.
CastellatedResembling the parapets along
the top of a castle wall. For example, a
castellated balljoint stud nut.
CastorIn wheel alignment, the backward or
forward tilt of the steering axis. Castor is
positive when the steering axis is inclined
rearward at the top.
Canister
Brake bleeding
Bearing
Air filter
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