ABS FORD GRANADA 1985 Service Owner's Guide

1Raise the vehicle on ramps or on a hoist, so
that the weight is still on the wheels.
2Remove the lower arm pivot nut and bolt
(see illustration).
3Remove the anti-roll bar end nut, dished
washer and plastic cover. Note which way
round these components are fitted.
4Now raise and support the vehicle so that
the front wheels are off the ground.
5Remove the split pin from the lower arm
balljoint nut. Back off the nut a few turns,
break the taper with a balljoint separator, then
remove the nut and free the balljoint from the
stub axle carrier.
6Pull the lower arm off the anti-roll bar and
remove it.
7If the balljoint is defective, the whole arm
must be renewed. The dust boot can be
renewed separately if required.
8The anti-roll bar bushes (compliance
bushes) can be removed by cutting off their
flanges with a chisel, then pressing or tapping
out the remains. Fit new bushes by tapping
them home with a tube or socket.
9The pivot bush can be pressed out using a
bench vice and a couple of large sockets or
suitable pieces of tube. The new pivot bush
should be lubricated with soap or glycerine
(notoil or grease) before being fitted in a
similar fashion. Do not keep the new bush
compressed in the tube for longer than
necessary, in case it becomes permanently
distorted.
10Commence refitting by offering the arm to
the anti-roll bar. Make sure that the shallow
dished washer and the plastic cover are fitted
on the inboard side of the bar (furthest from
the nut).
11Refit the balljoint to the stub axle carrier.
Tighten the castellated nut to the specified
torque and secure it with a new split pin.
12Fit the pivot end of the arm into the
crossmember and secure it with the pivot nut
and bolt. Jacking the vehicle up or down to
vary the loading on the wheels may help to get
the holes lined up. Do not tighten the pivot nut
and bolt yet.
13Lower the vehicle back onto its wheels.14Fit the deep dished washer and the plastic
cover over the end of the anti-roll bar. Fit the
nut and tighten it to the specified torque.
15Tighten the lower arm pivot nut and bolt to
the specified torque.
1Raise the vehicle on ramps or a hoist, so
that the weight is still on the wheels.
2Unbolt the two anti-roll bar clamps (see
illustration).
3Now raise and support the vehicle with the
wheels free.
4Remove the two nuts which hold the ends
of the anti-roll bar to the lower arms. Recover
the plastic covers and deep dished washers.
5Remove one lower arm pivot nut and bolt.
Prise the lower arm out of the crossmember
and work the anti-roll bar free from it.
6Pull the anti-roll bar out of the other lower
arm and remove it. Recover the other
compliance bush covers and washers.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations,
but do not finally tighten any fastenings until
the weight of the vehicle is back on the
wheels. Tighten in the following order:
a)Anti-roll bar clamps
b)Anti-roll bar-to lower arm nuts
c)Lower arm pivot nut and bolt
8Make sure that the anti-roll bar clamp
bushes are not twisted on completion.
Compliance bushes
1These are described in Section 18. It is not
strictly necessary to remove the lower arms to
renew these bushes, though obviously access
is not good with the arms installed.
Clamp bushes
2Although it is possible to remove and refit
the clamp bushes without removing the anti-
roll bar, since the bushes are split, this is not
recommended by the makers.
3Remove the anti-roll bar as described in the
previous Section.4Slide the clamp bushes off the anti-roll bar,
if necessary prising them open a little first.
5Lubricate the new bushes with glycerine or
soap and slide them into position with the split
facing forwards.
6Refit the anti-roll bar.
1Slacken the front wheel nuts, raise and
support the vehicle and remove the front
wheel.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Unbolt the brake caliper and suspend it
nearby so that the flexible hose is not strained.
4Remove the ABS sensor from the stub axle
carrier.
5Separate the track rod end and suspension
lower arm balljoints from the stub axle carrier.
6Unclip the ABS/brake pad wear wiring from
the strut.
7Remove the dust cover from the top of the
strut.
8Have an assistant support the strut.
Remove the three nuts which secure the strut
to the turret (see illustration).Do notundo
the centre nut.
9Lower the strut out of the turret and remove
it.
10Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Do not fully tighten the strut-to-turret nuts until
the weight of the vehicle is back on its wheels.
21Front suspension strut -
removal and refitting
20Front anti-roll bar bushes -
renewal
19Front anti-roll bar - removal
and refitting
18Front suspension lower arm -
removal, overhaul and refitting
Steering and suspension 11•9
11
19.2 A front anti-roll bar clamp
21.8 Two of the three nuts (arrowed)
securing the suspension strut to the turret
18.2 Front suspension lower arm components
A Anti-roll bar
B Rear dished washer and cover
C Bushes
D Balljoint
E Front dished washer and cover
F Locknut
G Pivot bush
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1With the strut removed, clamp it in a vice
with protected jaws.2Remove the stub axle carrier pinch-bolts.
Spread the carrier by carefully introducing a
chisel or blunt screwdriver into the crack, then
slide it off the strut (see illustration).
3Fit spring compressors to the strut.
Compress the spring until it is no longer
tensioning the strut. Make sure that the
compressors are secure (see illustration).
4Hold the piston rod with a hexagon key and
remove the piston rod nut. Also remove the
dished retainer.
5Remove the top mount, the bearing and the
spring upper seat(see illustration).
6Carefully lift off the compressed spring.
Place it where it will not be knocked or jarred.
7Remove the shock absorber gaiter and
bump stop.
8Examine all components for wear and
damage and renew as necessary. The shock
absorber must be renewed if it is leaking, or if
it shows uneven resistance when “worked”
with its lower end clamped in a vice. In theory
springs and shock absorbers should be
renewed in pairs in order to maintain balanced
handling characteristics.
9Commence reassembly by sliding the bump
stop onto the shock absorber piston rod. Refit
the gaiter.
10Make sure that the spring seats are clean,
then fit the compressed spring to the lower
seat.
11Refit the spring upper seat, the bearing
(small hole upwards) and the top mount.
12Refit the dished retainer and the piston rod
nut. Hold the piston rod and tighten the nut.13Carefully release the spring compressors.
Make sure that the ends of the spring are
correctly located in the spring seats.
14Spread the stub axle carrier again. Slide it
onto the strut, remove the spreader and refit
the pinch-bolt. Tighten the pinch-bolt to the
specified torque.
15Refit the strut to the vehicle.
Models before 1987
1Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it
securely under the frame rails.
2Remove the exhaust system.
3Remove the propeller shaft.
4Release the handbrake cable from the
equaliser yoke by removing the circlip from the
handbrake lever pin. Release the cable from
its floor brackets.
5Disconnect the brake flexible hoses from
the rear brake pipes.
6Disconnect the ABS and brake pad wear
sensor wires (as applicable). Free the wires
from the suspension lower arms.
7Unbolt the two anti-roll bar brackets from
the floors.
8Disconnect the ride height control sensor
and the shock absorber air lines, when so
equipped.
9Lower the vehicle onto its wheels in order to
load the rear springs a little. Place a jack under
the final drive unit and support it.
10Unbolt and remove the two guide plates
(see illustrations). The centre bolt on each
plate is retained by a lockwasher which must
be released first.
11Unbolt the final drive unit rear mounting
from the floor.
12Remove the luggage area side trim, then
remove the rear shock absorber upper
mounting bolts.
13Raise and support the rear of the vehicle
again. Withdraw the rear suspension and final
drive assembly.
14Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Tighten all fastenings to the specified torque,
when known. When applicable use new O-
rings on the ride height control line unions.
23Rear suspension and final
drive assembly - removal and
refitting
22Front suspension strut -
dismantling and reassembly
11•10Steering and suspension
22.2 Spreading the stub axle carrier clamp22.3 Spring compressors fitted to a front suspension strut
22.5 Front suspension strut components
A Top mount
B Bearing
C Spring upper seat
D Spring
E GaiterF Bump stop
G Shock absorber
and spring lower
seat
H Stub axle
Warning: Spring compressors of
adequate rating must be used for
this job. The use of makeshift or
inadequate equipment may result
in damage and personal injury.
23.10a One of the rear suspension guide
plates
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15Bleed the brake hydraulic system and
adjust the handbrake on completion.
Models from 1987
16From 1987, the tab washer which secures
the guide plate centre bolt on each side has
been deleted. A self-locking bolt and plain
washer are used instead.
17The new bolt and washer should be fitted
to earlier models if the old bolt has been
removed for any reason. The tab washer
should be discarded.
18The tightening torque for the new bolt
remains the same as that given for the original.
1Remove the wheel trim. Apply the
handbrake and chock the front wheels.
2Slacken the driveshaft stub axle. This nut is
very tight. The left-hand nut has aleft-hand
thread, therefore it is undone clockwise.
3Remove the brake disc.
4Remove the driveshaft stub axle.
5Remove the four bolts which secure the
hub. Pull the hub off the driveshaft stub,
leaving the disc splash shield loose.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Carry out the final tightening of the driveshaft
stub nut with the wheels on the ground.
1Remove the rear hub as described in the
previous Section (see illustration).
2Prise out both oil seals from the hub.
Recover the bearing races.
3Drive the bearing tracks out of the hub with
a hammer and a blunt drift.4Clean grease and debris from the hub and
clean up any burrs or nicks.
5Fit the new bearing tracks, pressing them in
squarely with the help of a piece of pipe or
tube.
6Thoroughly grease the bearing races and
pack the lips of the oil seals with grease.
7Fit the races and the oil seals, lips inwards.
Seat the oil seals with a mallet and the pipe or
tube.
8Refit the rear hub.
1This procedure is only specified by the
manufacturers as applying to the rear wheels,
but there is no reason to believe that it will not
work on the front.
2Remove the rear wheel, brake caliper and
brake disc.
3Drive the wheel stud out of the hub flange. 4Insert the new stud from the inboard side of
the flange. Engage the splines by hand
pressure, then draw the stud into place with a
wheel nut and progressively thicker spacers
(see illustration).
5Refit the brake disc, caliper and wheel.
1Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
2Unbolt the driveshaft outboard flange from
the stub. It is secured by six Torx screws.
3Disconnect the anti-roll bar from the link rod
by prising it free. On models with ride height
control, also disconnect the height sensor
from the anti-roll bar link rod.
4Free the brake pipe and flexible hose from
the brackets next to the spring. If it is the left-
hand spring which is being removed, also
unbolt the brake pipe T-piece from the floor.
5Raise a jack under the rear suspension
lower arm to load the spring.
6Unbolt the shock absorber from the lower
arm.
27Rear spring - removal and
refitting
26Wheel stud - renewal
25Rear wheel bearings -
renewal
24Rear hub - removal and
refitting
Steering and suspension 11•11
11
25.1 Rear hub components
A Outer oil seal
B Outer bearing
C HubD Inner bearing
E Inner oil seal26.4 Fitting a new wheel stud using a nut
and spacer
23.10b Rear suspension components
1 Lower arm outer bush
2 Lower arm
3 Lower arm inner bush
4 Final drive rear mounting
5 Buffer
6 Spring seat
7 Crossmember
8 Insulator
9 Guide plate
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7Unbolt the guide plate from the body on the
side concerned.
8Carefully lower the jack until the spring is no
longer under tension. Remove the spring and
the rubber buffer.
9Refit by reversing the removal operations,
tightening all fastenings to the specified torque
when known.
Note: Ford tool No 15-014, or locally made
equivalent, will be required for this job.
1Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
2Flatten the lockwasher which secures the
guide plate centre bolt. Remove the centre
bolt and the two bolts which hold the guide
plate to the floor; remove the guide plate.
3Wedge a piece of wood between the
crossmember and the floor.
4Draw the insulator out with the special tool
(see illustration).
5Smear the new insulator with glycerine or
liquid soap, then press it in as follows.
6Use the special tool spindle or other long
M12 bolt. Screw a nut up to the bolt head,
then fit a plain washer and the insulator onto
the bolt. Pass the bolt through the hole in the
crossmember and screw it into the floor, then
press the insulator home by winding the nut
and washer up the bolt.
7Remove the installation tool and the wood.
8Refit the guide plate, tightening the bolts to
the specified torque. Secure the centre bolt
with the lockwasher.
9Lower the vehicle.
1Remove the rear hub.
2Disconnect both rear brake flexible hoses
from the brake pipes. Free the brake pipes
from the brackets on the lower arms.
3Unclip the handbrake cable from the lower
arm.
4Remove the rear spring.
5Remove the lower arm-to-crossmember
bolts. Withdraw the lower arm.6Renew the rubber bushes if wished, using
lengths of tube or sockets and a vice, or large
nuts and bolts. Lubricate the new bushes with
glycerine or liquid soap.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations,
tightening the lower arm-to-crossmember
bolts with the weight of the vehicle back on its
wheels. Bleed the brake hydraulic system on
completion.
1Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
2Separate the anti-roll bar from the link rods
on each side by prising them free (see
illustration).
3Unbolt the two anti-roll bar brackets.
Remove the bar, brackets and bushes (see
illustration).
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Tighten the bracket bolts to the specified
torque.
1Working inside the vehicle, remove the
luggage area side trim to gain access to the
shock absorber top mounting.
2Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
Raise a jack under the rear suspension lower
arm to take the load off the shock absorber.3On models with ride height control,
disconnect the air line from the shock
absorber.
4Unbolt the shock absorber top mounting
(see illustration).
5Unbolt the shock absorber lower mounting
(see illustration). Pull the shock absorber out
of the lower mounting bracket and remove it.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Tighten the shock absorber mountings to the
specified torque. On models with ride height
control, use new O-rings on the air line union.
The ride height control system is an optional
extra, designed to keep the rear suspension
height constant regardless of vehicle load.
This is obviously useful if heavy loads are often
carried, or if the vehicle is used for towing.
The main components of the system are a
height sensor, a compressor and two special
rear shock absorbers. The compressor
supplies air to the shock absorbers, so
“pumping up” the rear suspension, when so
commanded by the height sensor. Other
components include the connecting pipes,
electrical wiring and a compressor relay. The
relay is mounted behind the glovebox.
Variations in vehicle height are not
recognised by the system for approximately
20 seconds, in order to prevent responses to
temporary changes such as those induced by
32Ride height control system -
general information
31Rear shock absorber -
removal and refitting
30Rear anti-roll bar - removal
and refitting
29Rear suspension lower arm -
removal and refitting
28Rear crossmember insulator
- removal and refitting
11•12Steering and suspension
28.4 Drawing out an insulator with the
special tool
31.4 Undoing a rear shock absorber top
mounting31.5 Undoing a rear shock absorber lower
mounting
30.2 Rear anti-roll bar link rod30.3 A rear anti-roll bar bracket - bolt
arrowed
procarmanuals.com

important also to keep watch on those parts of
the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment.
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud, which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically
enough, the best time to clean the underframe
and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the
mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-
based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the underframe
of the vehicle steam-cleaned, engine
compartment included, so that a thorough
inspection can be carried out to see what
minor repairs and renovations are necessary.
Steam-cleaning is available at many garages,
and is necessary for the removal of the
accumulation of oily grime, which sometimes
is allowed to become thick in certain areas. If
steam-cleaning facilities are not available,
there are some excellent grease solvents
available which can be brush-applied; the dirt
can then be simply hosed off. Note that these
methods should not be used on vehicles with
wax-based underbody protective coating, or
the coating will be removed. Such vehicles
should be inspected annually, preferably just
prior to Winter, when the underbody should be
washed down, and any damage to the wax
coating repaired. Ideally, a completely fresh
coat should be applied. It would also be worth
considering the use of such wax-based
protection for injection into door panels, sills,
box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard
against rust damage, where such protection is
not provided by the vehicle manufacturer.
After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish will
give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has
dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to
avoid damage to the finish. Always check that
the door and ventilator opening drain holes
and pipes are completely clear, so that water
can be drained out. Brightwork should be
treated in the same way as paintwork.
Windscreens and windows can be kept clear
of the smeary film which often appears, by theuse of proprietary glass cleaner. Never use
any form of wax or other body or chromium
polish on glass.
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more
apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the material.
Do not forget to keep the headlining clean in
the same way as the upholstery. When using
liquid cleaners inside the vehicle, do not over-
wet the surfaces being cleaned. Excessive
damp could get into the seams and padded
interior, causing stains, offensive odours or
even rot. If the inside of the vehicle gets wet
accidentally, it is worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry it out properly, particularly
where carpets are involved. Do not leave oil or
electric heaters inside the vehicle for this
purpose.
Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of the
scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a very
fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint from
the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique is
required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smoothcotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being “belled-
out”.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
The next stage of the repair is the removal
of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.
To complete the repair, see the Section on
filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes in
bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area, and
from an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire
brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide whether
to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or
4Minor body damage - repair
3Maintenance - upholstery and
carpets
12•2Bodywork and fittings
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to repair the affected area. New body panels
are not as expensive as most people think,
and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to
fit a new panel than to attempt to repair large
areas of corrosion.
Remove all fittings from the affected area,
except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in
order to create a slight depression for the filler
paste.
Wire-brush the affected area to remove the
powdery rust from the
surface of the remaining metal. Paint the
affected area with rust-inhibiting paint, if the
back of the rusted area is accessible, treat this
also.
Before filling can take place, it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.
Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs - filling and
respraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair.
A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be found invaluable for imparting a smooth
and well-contoured finish to the surface of the
filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minuteintervals, until the level of the filler is just proud
of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, the excess can
be removed using a metal plane or file. From
then on, progressively-finer grades of abrasive
paper should be used, starting with a 40-
grade production paper, and finishing with a
400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of the
filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage, the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork. Rinse
the repair area with clean water, until all of the
dust produced by the rubbing-down operation
has gone.
Spray the whole area with a light coat of
primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out in
a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up thethickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15
minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the
paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply
wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter of
either entrusting repair work to a specialist in
this field, or renewing complete components.
Repair of such damage by the DIY owner is
not really feasible, owing to the cost of the
equipment and materials required for effecting
such repairs. The basic technique involves
making a groove along the line of the crack in
the plastic, using a rotary burr in a power drill.
The damaged part is then welded back
together, using a hot-air gun to heat up and
fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove. Any
excess plastic is then removed, and the area
rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is important
that a filler rod of the correct plastic is used, as
body components can be made of a variety of
different types (eg polycarbonate, ABS,
polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions, this
is used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler
used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it with
epoxy filler, he will be left with the problem of
finding a suitable paint for finishing which is
compatible with the type of plastic used. At
one time, the use of a universal paint was not
possible, owing to the complex range of
plastics encountered in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally
speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to
obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which
consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer
and coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
to the component concerned, and allow it to
dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
applied, and left to dry for about an hour
before finally applying the special-coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a property that standard
paint does not normally posses.
Bodywork and fittings 12•3
12
If bodystopper is used, it can be
mixed with cellulose thinners,
to form a thin paste which is
ideal for filling small holes.
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6Disconnect the glovebox arms and hinges.
Withdraw the hinge pins and remove the lid.
7Slide the auxiliary fuse panel off its
mounting and remove the glovebox light
(when fitted).
8Remove the ABS and ESC/EEC modules
(Chapter 13). Remove the two nuts and
washers from inside the glovebox.
9Remove the radio, stowage box or graphic
equaliser, ashtray, cigarette lighter panel and
(when applicable) the gear lever gaiter.
10Remove the centre console, disconnecting
switches, rear heater controls etc as
necessary.
11Remove the six screws which secure the
passenger’s side lower panel. Remove the
panel. 12Refit by reversing the removal operations,
transferring the brackets, captive nuts or other
fittings to any new panels being fitted.
Models from April 1992
13Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
14Remove the centre console.
15Remove the radio, amplifier unit and
(where necessary) the CD player.
16Remove the instrument cluster.
17Remove the steering wheel and then the
steering column direction indicator/headlight
flasher switch and windscreen wipe/wash
switch.
18Pull off the three knobs from the heater
and ventilation controls to gain access to the
two hidden central vent panel retainingscrews. Slacken and remove the four panel
retaining screws and partially withdraw the
panel. Disconnect the wiring connectors from
the heated window switches and fuel
computer (where fitted) and remove the panel
from the car (see illustrations).
19Undo the two retaining screws and free
the heater and ventilation control panel from
the facia panel (see illustration).
20Depress the retaining tang, situated at the
bottom of the control knob, and remove the
light switch knob from the switch (see
illustration).
21Withdraw the light switch from right-hand
vent panel and disconnect the wiring plug (see
illustration).
22Remove the light switch surround from the
vent panel and disconnect the wiring
connector (see illustration).
23Undo the three retaining screws and
remove the right-hand vent panel from the
facia (see illustration).
24Remove the ashtray insert, then slacken
and remove the three ashtray retaining
screws. Remove the ashtray assembly,
detaching the illumination lamp as it is
removed (see illustration).
25Undo the retaining screw then disconnect
the wiring plugs and remove the cigarette
lighter from the facia panel (see illustration).
26Unclip and remove both the left- and right-
hand facia undercover panels.
27Carefully prise out the bonnet release lever
surround to gain access to the lever retaining
Bodywork and fittings 12•13
12
41.18a Remove the control knobs to gain
access to the two hidden central vent
panel retaining screws (arrowed)41.18b Withdraw the central vent panel and
disconnect the heated window and fuel
computer wiring connectors41.19 Undo the heater control panel
retaining screws and free the panel from
the facia
41.22 Withdraw the light switch surround
and disconnect the wiring connector
41.20 Depress the tang (arrowed) and pull
off the light switch control knob41.21 Withdraw the light switch and
disconnect the wiring plug
41.23 Undo the three retaining screws
(arrowed) to disconnect the right-hand vent41.24 Ashtray retaining screw locations
(arrowed)
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The electrical system is a 12 volt, negative
earth type. Electricity is generated by an
alternator, belt-driven from the crankshaft pulley.
A lead-acid battery provides a reserve of power
for starting and when the demands of the system
temporarily exceed the alternator output.
The battery negative terminal is connected
to “earth” - vehicle metal - and most electrical
system components are wired so that they
only receive a positive feed, the current
returning via vehicle metal. This means that
the component mounting forms part of the
circuit. Loose or corroded mountings can
therefore cause apparent electrical faults.
Many semiconductor devices are used in
the electrical system, both in the “black
boxes” which control vehicle functions and in
other components. Semiconductors are very
sensitive to excessive (or wrong polarity)
voltage, and to extremes of heat. Observe the
appropriate precautions to avoid damage.
Although some repair procedures are given
in this Chapter, sometimes renewal of a well-
used item will prove more satisfactory. The
reader whose interests extend beyond
component renewal should obtain a copy of
the “Automobile Electrical Manual”, available
from the publishers of this book.
Before starting work on the electrical
system, read the precautions listed in “Safety
first!” at the beginning of the manual.
Note:Refer to the precautions given in “Safety
first!” and in Section 1 of this Chapter before
starting work. The following tests relate to testing
of the main electrical circuits, and should not be
used to test delicate electronic circuits (such as
anti-lock braking systems), particularly where an
electronic control unit (ECU) is involved.
General
1A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers
related to that component, and the wiring and
connectors which link the component to both
the battery and the chassis. To help to
pinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit,
wiring diagrams are included at the end of this
Chapter.
2Before attempting to diagnose an electrical
fault, first study the appropriate wiring
diagram, to obtain a more complete
understanding of the components included in
the particular circuit concerned. The possible
sources of a fault can be narrowed down by
noting whether other components related to
the circuit are operating properly. If several
components or circuits fail at one time, the
problem is likely to be related to a shared fuse
or earth connection.
3Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes, such as loose or corroded
connections, a faulty earth connection, a
blown fuse, a melted fusible link, or a faulty
relay. Visually inspect the condition of all
fuses, wires and connections in a problem
circuit before testing the components. Use the
wiring diagrams to determine which terminal
connections will need to be checked in order
to pinpoint the trouble-spot.
4The basic tools required for electrical fault-
finding include: a circuit tester or voltmeter (a
12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also
be used for certain tests), a self-powered test
light (sometimes known as a continuity tester),
an ohmmeter (to measure resistance), a
battery and set of test leads, and a jumper
wire, preferably with a circuit breaker or fuse
incorporated, which can be used to bypass
suspect wires or electrical components.
Before attempting to locate a problem with
test instruments, use the wiring diagram to
determine where to make the connections.
5To find the source of an intermittent wiring
fault (usually due to a poor or dirty connection,
or damaged wiring insulation), an integrity testcan be performed on the wiring, which
involves moving the wiring by hand, to see if
the fault occurs as the wiring is moved. It
should be possible to narrow down the source
of the fault to a particular section of wiring.
This method of testing can be used in
conjunction with any of the tests described in
the following sub-Sections.
6Apart from problems due to poor
connections, two basic types of fault can
occur in an electrical circuit - open-circuit or
short-circuit.
7Open-circuit faults are caused by a break
somewhere in the circuit, which prevents
current from flowing. An open-circuit fault will
prevent a component from working, but will
not cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow.
8Short-circuit faults are caused by a “short”
somewhere in the circuit, which allows the
current flowing in the circuit to “escape” along
an alternative route, usually to earth. Short-
circuit faults are normally caused by a
breakdown in wiring insulation, which allows a
feed wire to touch either another wire, or an
earthed component such as the bodyshell. A
short-circuit fault will normally cause the
relevant circuit fuse to blow. Note: A short-
circuit that occurs in the wiring between a
circuit’s battery supply and its fuse will not
cause the fuse in that particular circuit to blow.
This part of the circuit is unprotected - bear
this in mind when fault-finding on the vehicle’s
electrical system.
Finding an open-circuit
9To check for an open-circuit, connect one
lead of a circuit tester or voltmeter to either the
negative battery terminal or a known good earth.
10Connect the other lead to a connector in
the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to
the battery or fuse.
11Switch on the circuit, bearing in mind that
some circuits are live only when the ignition
switch is moved to a particular position.
12If voltage is present (indicated either by
the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading,
as applicable), this means that the section of
2Electrical fault-finding - general
information
1General information
Body electrical system 13•3
13
Other relays and modules (continued)
IdentificationFunction
Behind facia (passenger side) (continued):
M4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Heated windscreen (timer)
M5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Air conditioning cooling fan
M6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS pump relay
M7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS main relay
M8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS control unit
M9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Ride height control
Below instrument panel (driver’s side):
N1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Bulb failure warning unit
Below facia (passenger side):
P1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS module
P2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Fuel-injection system module
Behind facia (passenger side):
R1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Speed control system module
R2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Auxiliary warning system module
R3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Rear audio console module
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Alternator adjusting strap:
To steering pump bracket (SOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2616 to 19
To front cover (V6) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 to 5130 to 38
procarmanuals.com

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the steering column upper and
lower shrouds.
3Remove the switch by depressing its two
retaining tabs. Unplug the wiring connector
and remove the switch (see illustration).
4When refitting, make sure that the slot in the
centre of the switch is aligned with the driver
on the lock.
5Reconnect the switch and push it home
until the retaining tabs click into place.
6Reconnect the battery and check the switch
for correct operation, then refit the steering
column shrouds.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead, or
satisfy yourself that there is no risk of a short-
circuit, before removing any switch.
2Except where noted, a switch is refitted by
reversing the removal operations.
Lighting master switch
Models before April 1992
3Pull the knob off the lighting switch.
4Depress the two retaining lugs and pull the
switch out of the instrument panel surround. 5Disconnect the multi-plug from the switch
and remove it.
Models from April 1992
6Note that there is a retaining lug on the
bottom of the switch knob which must be
depressed before the knob can be removed.
Heater blower switch
Models before April 1992
7This is removed in the same way as the
lighting master switch.
Models from April 1992
8The switch can be removed and refitted as
described for the heater controls in Chapter 3.
Instrument illumination dimmer
switch
9Remove the instrument panel surround,
which is retained by four screws.
10Pull the dimmer switch from its location
and disconnect the multi-plug (see
illustration).
11Although the switch looks as if it can be
dismantled, this should not be attempted
unless the switch is surplus to requirements,
and a new unit is readily available.
Models up to April 1992
12On these models, remove the four
instrument cluster surround retaining screws
and remove the surround from the facia.
Carefully prise the switch out of the aperture
and disconnect the wiring connector.
Models from April 1992
13On these models, remove the two
instrument cluster surround retaining screws
and release the two retaining clips. Remove
the surround from the facia and disconnect
the wiring connector from the dimmer switch.
Depress the dimmer switch retaining tangs
and slide the switch out of the surround.
Mirror control switch
14Carefully prise the switch out of the armrest
using a thin-bladed screwdriver. Protect the
armrest with a piece of cloth or thick card.
15Disconnect the multi-plug and remove the
switch (see illustration).
Direction indicator/headlight
flasher switch and unit
Models before April 1992
16Remove the steering wheel centre cover.
17Remove the steering column upper and
lower shrouds, which are secured by a total of
six screws.
18Unlock the steering and turn the steering
wheel to gain access to the two screws which
retain the switch (see illustration). Remove
the screws.
19Withdraw the switch from the steering
column and disconnect its multi-plug (see
illustration). It may be necessary to release
some cable-ties in order to free the multi-plug.
The flasher unit is plugged into the side of the
switch furthest from the wheel (see
illustration).15Switches - removal and
refitting
14Ignition/starter switch -
removal and refitting
Body electrical system 13•11
13
14.3 Ignition/starter switch removal
Depress the retaining tabs to lift off the switch15.10 Removing the instrument illumination
dimmer switch15.15 Removing a mirror control switch
15.18 Two screws (arrowed) secure the
switch. Steering wheel removed for clarity15.19a Disconnecting a steering column
switch multi-plug15.19b Unplugging the direction indicator
flasher unit
procarmanuals.com

Heated rear window switch
Models before April 1992
50Remove the instrument panel surround,
which is secured by four screws.
51Carefully prise the switch from its location,
disconnect the multi-plug and remove it.
Models from April 1992
52Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver,
carefully prise the switch out of the centre
facia vent panel and disconnect the wiring
connector.
53On refitting, reconnect the wiring
connector and push the switch in until it clicks
into position.
Foglight switch(es)
54These are removed in the same way as the
heated rear window switch (see illustration).
Hazard warning switch
55This is integral with the direction indicator
switch.
Front seat adjusting switch
56Remove the seat trim panel.
57Prise the operating levers off the switch
with a thin-bladed screwdriver (see
illustration).
58Remove the two securing screws,
withdraw the switch and unplug it.
Rear seat adjusting switch
59This is removed in the same way as the
mirror control switch already described in
paragraphs 10 and 11.
Heated seat control switches
60These are removed in the same way as the
mirror control switch already described in
paragraphs 10 and 11.
Starter inhibitor/reversing light
switch (automatic transmission)
61Refer to Chapter 7 part B.
Fuses
1The battery positive (live) lead is protected
by a fusible link. If this link melts, a major
short-circuit is indicated and expert advice
should be sought before repairing it.
2The main fuse/relay box is located under the
bonnet, near the bulkhead on the right-hand
side. It contains up to 24 fuses and nearly as
many relays (according to equipment). Fuse
applications are listed on the underside of the
fuse box lid (see illustration).
3There is an auxiliary fuse box inside the
vehicle, accessible after opening the glovebox
(see illustration). An in-line fuse for the radio
is located under the facia on the left-hand
side, near the heater.4The“blade” type fuses are colour-coded to
show their current rating. A blown fuse can be
recognised by the melted wire link in the
middle.
5To renew a blown fuse, first switch off the
circuit concerned. Pull the old fuse out of its
holder, using tweezers or long-nosed pliers.
Press in a new fuse of the same rating and try
the circuit again.
6If the new fuse blows immediately or within
a short time, do not carry on renewing fuses
but look for a short-circuit in the wiring to the
item(s) protected by the fuse. When more than
one item is protected by a single fuse,
switching on one item at a time until the fuse
blows will help to isolate the defect.
7Never fit a fuse of a higher rating (current
capacity) than specified, and do not bypass
fuses with silver foil or strands of wire. Serious
damage, including fire, could result.
8In some positions (such as for power
window and seat adjustment motors) circuit
breakers are fitted instead of fuses. These are
normally self-resetting once the cause of the
overload has been cleared.
Relays
9If a circuit or system served by a relay
develops a fault, always remember that the
problem could be in the relay. Testing is by
substitution of a known good unit. Beware of
substituting relays which look the same but
perform different functions(see illustration).10To renew a relay, simply unplug it from its
holder and plug in the new one. Access to the
relays in the main fuse box is as described for
the fuses. Access to the relays located behind
the facia is achieved by removing the facia
top.
11The sliding roof relay is located in the
overhead console.
Control units and modules
12The two major modules are the EEC IV
module (on fuel-injection models) and the ABS
control module. These are located below the
glovebox on the passenger side, and are
accessible after removing the under-dash trim.
13As with relays, testing by the home
mechanic is limited to substitution of known
good units. This is likely to be prohibitively
expensive on a trial and error basis so in case
of problems a Ford dealer or other competent
specialist should be consulted at an early
stage.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead and
unlock all the doors before starting work on
the central locking system. Make sure that the
keys are outside the vehicle before
reconnecting the battery on completion.
2Remove the door interior trim panel.
17Central locking motor -
removal and refitting
16Fuses, relays and control
units - removal and refitting
Body electrical system 13•13
13
15.54 Removing a foglight switch15.57 Removing the front seat adjusting
switch
16.2 Main fuse/relay box under the bonnet16.3 Auxiliary fuse box in the glovebox
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