lock FORD GRANADA 1985 Service Manual PDF

See Chapter 1, Section 46.
See Chapter 1, Section 46.
See Chapter 1, Section 46.
1Drain the radiator. There is no need to drain
the cylinder block. On DOHC engines the
electric cooling fan assembly must be removed
to gain the clearance to remove the radiator.
2Disconnect the top and bottom hoses from
the radiator by slackening the hose clips and
pulling off the hoses with a twisting motion
(see illustrations). Do not use excessive force
- the radiator side tanks are made of plastic.
3On OHCmodels, disconnect the small hose
running from the expansion tank to the radiator.
4On automatic transmission models, clean
around the transmission fluid cooler unions on
the radiator and disconnect them (seeillustration). Be prepared for fluid spillage;
plug or cap the cooler lines to keep dirt out.
5On models with air conditioning, disconnect
the auxiliary fan thermo-switch. If the thermo-
switch is mounted in the radiator, remove It.
6Remove the upper half of the fan shroud by
removing the two bolts and two clips (see
illustration), and the lower half which is
secured by two bolts.
7Release the two radiator top mounting clips
by pulling out the plastic plugs (see illustration).
8Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
Support the radiator and remove the two
bottom mounting bolts (see illustration).
9Carefully lower the radiator slightly to free
the top mountings, then remove it from under
the vehicle.
10If a new radiator is being fitted, transfer the
fan shrouds and mountings from the old one.
11Refit by reversing the removal operations,
then refill the cooling system.
12On automatic transmission models, check
the transmission fluid level.
1If the radiator has been removed because of
suspected blockage, reverse-flush it.
2Clean dirt and debris from the radiator fins,
using an air jet, or water and a soft brush. Be
careful not to damage the fins, or cut your
fingers. 3A radiator specialist can perform a “flow
test” on the radiator to establish whether an
internal blockage exists.
4A leaking radiator must be referred to a
specialist for permanent repair. Do not attempt
to weld or solder a leaking radiator, as
damage to the plastic parts may result.
5In an emergency, minor leaks from the
radiator can be cured by using a radiator
sealant while the radiator is in situ.
SOHC engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the cooling system. As it is not
necessary to completely drain the radiator, the
bottom hose can be disconnected from the
water pump.
3Disconnect the top hose from the
thermostat housing at the front of the cylinder
head (see illustration).
4Unscrew the bolts and remove the housing
and gasket (see illustration).
5Using a screwdriver, prise the retaining clip
from the housing, and extract the thermostat
and sealing ring (see illustrations).
6Clean the thermostat housing and cylinder
head mating surfaces. Obtain a new gasket for
reassembly, and if necessary a new sealing
ring too.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
7Thermostat - removal and
refitting
6Radiator - inspection and repair
5Radiator - removal and refitting
4Cooling system - filling
3Cooling system - flushing
2Cooling system - draining
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•3
3
5.2a Radiator top hose5.2b Radiator bottom hose (A)
Also shown are automatic transmission fluid
cooler lower union (B) and hose to expansion
tank (C)5.4 Transmission fluid cooler upper union
5.6 Fan shroud clip5.7 Pull out the plug to release the radiator
top mounting5.8 One of the radiator bottom mounting
bolts (arrowed)
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Make sure that the thermostat is the right way
round - the wax capsule fits into the cylinder
head, with the direction of flow arrow facing
forwards (see illustration).
8Refill the cooling system.
DOHC engines
9Disconnect the battery negative lead.
10Drain the cooling system.
11On fuel-injection models, for access to the
thermostat housing, loosen the clips and
remove the air inlet tube which connects the
plenum chamber to the inlet manifold.
12Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing (see illustrations).
13Disconnect the wiring plug from the
cooling fan switch mounted in the thermostat
housing (see illustration).
14Unscrew the three securing bolts, andwithdraw the thermostat housing (see
illustration).
15Manoeuvre the thermostat away from the
inlet manifold and recover the O-ring. If it is
necessary to prise the thermostat out, take
care not to damage the surface of the housing
in the inlet manifold.
16Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
a)Ensure that the O-ring seal is correctly
fitted around the edge of the thermostat.
b)When fitting the thermostat to the inlet
manifold ensure that the relief valve is
located in the 12 o’clock position (see
illustration).
c)Tighten the thermostat housing bolts to
the specified torque.
d)Refill the cooling system.
3•4Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
7.3 Top hose attachment to the thermostat
housing
7.12b . . . from the thermostat housing
7.5b . . . extract the thermostat . . .7.5c . . . and the sealing ring7.7 Thermostat direction of flow arrow
7.12a Disconnecting the coolant hoses . . .
7.13 Disconnect the cooling fan switch
wiring plug . . .7.14 . . . and remove the thermostat
housing
7.4 Removing the thermostat housing7.5a Remove the retaining clip . . .
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V6 engines
17The thermostat is removed in the course
of water pump removal.
1A rough test of the thermostat may be made
by suspending it with a piece of string in a
saucepan full of water(see illustration).Bring
the water to the boil. The thermostat most
open by the time the water boils. If not, renew
it.
2If a thermometer is available, the precise
opening temperature of the thermostat may be
determined and compared with that given in
the Specifications.
3A thermostat which fails to close as the
water cools must also be renewed.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the upper half of the fan shroud
(two bolts, four clips).
3Undo the nut which secures the fan clutch
to the water pump.This nut has a left-hand
thread, ie it is undone in a clockwise direction.
A thin cranked spanner, 32 mm (OHC) or 36
mm (V6) AF is needed(see illustration);
alternatively, if two of the pulley bolts are
removed, a normal thickness or even anadjustable spanner can be used (see
illustrations). Tap the spanner with a mallet if
need be to release the nut.
4The fan can now be unbolted from the
viscous clutch if required. Do not overtighten
the bolts when refitting.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2To provide additional clearance when
removing the cooling fan shroud assembly
(which is removed from below the vehicle),
apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking”).
3Disconnect the wiring plug(s) from the
motor(s), and where applicable, unclip the
wiring from the fan shroud.
4Unclip the expansion tank hose from the fan
shroud.
5Unscrew the two nuts securing the fan shroud
to the top of the radiator, then tilt the top of theshroud away from the radiator, and lift the
shroud to release the lower securing clips.
Withdraw the assembly from below the vehicle.
6To remove the fan blades, prise the
securing clip from the end of the motor shaft.
7The motor can be separated from the fan
shroud by unscrewing the three securing nuts
and bolts.
8Note that two cooling fans may be fitted,
depending on model. Both fans are secured to
the shroud in the same manner.
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, but when
fitting the fan blades, ensure that the drive dog
on the motor shaft engages with the slot in the
rear of the fan blades.
SOHC engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the cooling system.
3Remove the fan and viscous coupling.
4If not already done, remove the pump
drivebelt(s), then unbolt and remove the water
pump pulley (see illustration).
5Disconnect the radiator bottom hose and
the heater return hose from the pump.
6Remove the timing belt cover, which is
secured by three bolts.
11Water pump - removal and
refitting
10Electric cooling fan(s) -
removal and refitting
9Viscous-coupled fan - removal
and refitting
8Thermostat - testing
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•5
3
7.16 Thermostat relief valve (arrowed)
positioned in the 12 o’clock position8.1 Checking the thermostat opening
temperature9.3a Dimensions of spanner for undoing
fan clutch nut. Spanner thickness must not
exceed 5 mm (0.2 in)
9.3b Undoing the viscous fan clutch nut9.3c Removing the fan and clutch11.4 Undoing a water pump pulley bolt
X = 10 mm (0.4 in)
Y = 10 mm (0.4 in)Z = 50 mm (2.0 in)
If problems are experienced
with the pulley turning as the
nut is undone, remove the
drivebelt and clamp an old
drivebelt round the pulley to restrain it,
using self-locking pliers.
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7Remove the three securing bolts and
withdraw the water pump (see illustrations).
8A leaking, noisy or otherwise defective
pump must be renewed.
9Clean the mating faces and obtain a new
gasket for reassembly (see illustration).
10Refit by reversing the removal operation,
tightening all fastenings to the correct torque
(where specified).
11Refill the cooling system.
DOHC engines
12Disconnect the battery negative lead.
13On fuel-injection models, for access to the
water pump, remove the air inlet hose, plenum
chamber, and air cleaner lid as an assembly.
14Drain the cooling system.
15Remove the water pump/alternator
drivebelt.16If the pump pulley is to be removed, it is
easiest to do this with the pump in position as
follows. Prevent the pulley from rotating using
a strap wrench (which can be improvised
using an old drivebelt and a large socket and
wrench), and unscrew the four pulley securing
bolts. Withdraw the pulley.
17Position a suitable container beneath the
water pump to catch the coolant which will be
released as the pump is removed, then
unscrew the five securing bolts and withdraw
the pump from the housing in the cylinder
block (see illustration). Recover the O-ring
seal and discard it; a new one must be used
on refitting.
18Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
a)Ensure that the mating faces of the water
pump and cylinder block are clean and fit
a new O-ring to the pump (see
illustration).
b)Tighten the water pump bolts and where
applicable the pump pulley bolts to the
specified torque.
c)On completion refill the cooling system.
19Note that on models up to May 1990, the
coolant hoses were connected to the water
pump housing as shown(see illustration).
20On models from May 1990, the heater
hose (A) and the expansion tank hose (B)
connections were swapped over.21If the hoses are disconnected on earlier
models, such as during engine removal, they
should be reconnected as on later models, ie
connect the heater hose to connection B and
connect the expansion tank hose to connection
A. This will reduce the possibility of noises from
the heater matrix due to air in the system.
V6 engines
22Disconnect the battery negative lead.
23Drain the cooling system.
24Remove the fan and viscous coupling.
25If not already done, remove the pump
drivebelt(s), then unbolt and remove the water
pump pulley.
26Disconnect the radiator bottom hose and the
heater return hose from the thermostat housing.
27Remove the three bolts which secure the
thermostat housing to the water pump.
Remove the housing and the thermostat.
28Remove the twelve securing bolts and
withdraw the water pump. Note that on some
models it will be necessary to remove the
crankshaft pulley and damper to gain access
to the lower water pump bolts (see
illustration).
29A leaking, noisy or otherwise defective
pump must be renewed.
30Clean the mating faces and obtain a new
gasket for reassembly. Use a new thermostat
housing gasket also.
31Refit by reversing the removal operation,
tightening all fastenings to the correct torque
(where specified).
32Refill the cooling system.
3•6Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
11.7a This water pump bolt also secures
the alternator strap
11.18 On refitting, renew the water pump
O-ring (arrowed)
11.17 Withdrawing the water pump from
the cylinder block (engine removed)
11.19 Water pump housing hose
connections
A Heater hose connection - up to May 1990
B Expansion tank hose connection - up to
May 1990
C Bottom radiator hose
11.28 Removing the water pump
11.7b Water pump removed11.9 Fitting a new gasket to the water
pump
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See Chapter 1, Section 21.
1On 2.0 litre DOHC engines only, remove the
water pump/alternator drivebelt as described
in the previous Section.
2Loosen the alternator lower mounting
through-bolt, then remove the alternator upper
mounting bolt, and swing the alternator away
from the engine.
3Unscrew the central securing bolt, and
withdraw the drivebelt tensioner assembly.
4Commence refitting by positioning the
tensioner on the cylinder block, ensuring that
the lug on the rear of the tensioner bracket
engages with the corresponding hole in the
cylinder block (see illustration). Tighten the
securing bolt.
5Swing the alternator into position to align
the upper mounting bolt hole with the
corresponding hole in the drivebelt tensioner
assembly, then refit and tighten the upper
mounting bolt, then the lower throughbolt.
6Check the full length of the drivebelt for cracks
and deterioration and renew if necessary.
7Fit the drivebelt using a reversal of the
removal procedure, and release the tensioner
to tension the drivebelt.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurize the cooling system by
unscrewing the expansion tank cap. Take
precautions against scalding if the system
is hot.
3Slacken the hose clips on all the hoses
which are connected to the tank. Pull off and
plug those hoses which are above the
waterline.4Remove the two screws which secure the
tank. Tilt the tank so that the coolant lies away
from the outlets, then disconnect and plug the
remaining hose.
5Disconnect the coolant level sensor, when
fitted, and remove the tank.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Top-up the cooling system on completion.
1The temperature gauge sender is located
towards the front of the engine. On SOHC
models it is just below the inlet manifold (see
illustration); on V6 models it is just below the
top hose connection on the front of the left-
hand cylinder head, and on DOHC models it is
located at the front of the inlet manifold (see
illustration).
2Slacken the expansion tank cap to release
pressure in the cooling system, taking
precautions against scalding if the system
is hot.Tighten the cap again to minimise
coolant loss.
3Disconnect the wiring from the sender unit.
Unscrew and remove it, being prepared for
some coolant spillage.
4Smear sealant on the sender unit threads
before refitting, then insert and tighten it.
Reconnect the wiring.
5Top-up the cooling system if necessary,
then run the engine and check the operation of
the temperature gauge.The cooling fan switch is located in the end
of the thermostat housing.
Removal and refitting of the switch is as
described for the temperature gauge sender in
the previous Section.
Models before April 1992
Front
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the instrument cluster (Chapter 13).
3Remove the facia top (Chapter 12).
4Unclip the two control cables from the
control levers (see illustration).
5On air conditioned models, disconnect the
hoses from the vacuum switch.
6Remove the four screws which secure the
heater control assembly. Withdraw the
assembly from the facia.
7When refitting, secure the control assembly
with the four screws. Reconnect the vacuum
switch (when applicable) and the control
cables. Adjust the control cables if necessary
by altering the positions of the cable clips.
8When satisfied with the operation of the
cables, refit the other disturbed components.
Rear
9Remove the centre console (Chapter 12).
10Unclip the control cables and remove the
control unit.
11Refit in the reverse order to removal.
Models from April 1992
12Undo the two instrument panel surround
retaining screws, then carefully release the
retaining clips and remove the surround from
the facia.
13Pull off the three knobs from the heater
and ventilation controls to gain access to the
two hidden central vent panel retaining
screws. Slacken and remove the four panel
retaining screws and partially withdraw the
17Heater controls - removal and
refitting
16Cooling fan switch - removal
and refitting
15Temperature gauge sender -
removal and refitting
14Expansion tank - removal and
refitting
13Water pump/alternator
drivebelt tensioner - removal
and refitting
12Water pump/alternator
drivebelt(s) - inspection,
renewal and adjustment
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•7
3
13.4 On refitting, ensure the drivebelt
tensioner lug (A) engages with hole in the
mounting bracket (B)15.1a Temperature gauge sender (manifold
removed)15.1b Temperature gauge sender unit
location (arrowed)
17.4 Heater control cable clip (arrowed)
viewed through windscreen
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16Locate the heater matrix feed and return
hoses on the engine compartment bulkhead.
Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
both hoses from the matrix unions. Be
prepared for some coolant spillage. Plug the
matrix unions to prevent residual coolant
being spilt as the assembly is removed.
17Slacken and remove the two retaining
screws then remove the matrix cover plate
and gasket from the bulkhead; discard the
gasket as a new one should be used on
refitting.
18Remove the facia panel.
19Release the facia wiring loom from the
bulkhead to gain access to the demister
nozzle fasteners (see illustration).
20Remove the retaining nut and screw then
detach each windscreen demister nozzle from
the heater assembly. Undo the two retaining
nuts and detach the centre face level nozzle
from the heater.
21Slacken and remove the two retaining nuts
then detach the right-hand face level nozzle
from the heater and remove it from the vehicle.
Repeat the procedure for the left-hand nozzle.
22To detach each rear footwell nozzle from
the heater unit, remove the pin from the nozzle
retaining clip whilst supporting the outer part
of the retaining clip from the rear (see
illustration). Note: If the rear of the clip is not
supported when the pin is removed it will drop
down into the nozzle. To retrieve the clip will
require the removal of the vent which first
requires the front seat to be removed and
carpet lifted.
23Disconnect the wiring connector from the
heater control panel.
24Undo the two nuts securing the heater
assembly to the bulkhead then carefully
manoeuvre the assembly out of the vehicle
whilst being prepared for the possibility of
coolant spillage from the matrix unions.
25Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure noting the following points.
a)Tighten all retaining nuts and screws
securely and ensure that all nozzles are
securely connected to the heater
assembly so that there are no air gaps or
leaks.b)Check the operation of all heater cables
before refitting the facia, ensuring that the
relevant component moves smoothly from
the fully open to the fully closed position.
c)Ensure that the heater hoses are correctly
reconnected and are securely held by the
retaining clips.
d)Use a new gasket when refitting the matrix
cover plate.
e)Refill the cooling system.
1Remove the heater assembly as described
in the previous Section.
2Remove the two screws which secure the
heater matrix. Withdraw the matrix.
3If the matrix is leaking it is best to obtain a
new or reconditioned unit; home repairs are
seldom successful.4To dismantle, release the clips which secure
the casing halves together by using a
screwdriver. Carefully prise the halves apart
and separate them.
5Remove the flap valves and operating levers
from the casing halves, noting how they are
fitted for reference when reassembling.
6Flush the matrix with clean water to remove
any debris.
7Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling.
Additional clips may be needed to secure the
casing halves once they have been separated.
1Drain the cooling system.
2Noting the correct fitted positions, slacken
the retaining clips and disconnect the coolant
hoses from the valve.
3Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the top of
the valve then unclip the valve and remove it
from the retaining bracket.
4Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure ensuring that the coolant hoses are
reconnected to their original unions on the
valve and are securely held in position with the
retaining clips.
1Only those items which can be renewed
without discharging the system are described
here. Other items must be dealt with by a Ford
dealer or air conditioning specialist (see
illustration).
Compressor drivebelt
2Disconnect the battery earth lead.
3On OHC engines, remove the radiator
cooling fan.
4Slacken the compressor strap and pivot
bolts (see illustration),move the compressor
22Air conditioning system -
component renewal
21Heater coolant valve -
removal and refitting
20Heater matrix - dismantling
and reassembly
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•9
3
19.19 Release the facia wiring loom from
the bulkhead to gain access to the
demister nozzle retaining nut and screw
(arrowed)19.22 Detach the rear footwell nozzles from
the heater assembly
If the heater matrix is blocked
it can sometimes be cleared
by reverse-flushing using a
garden hose and a proprietary
radiator cleaning product if necessary.
22.1 Air conditioning system
component locations
1 De-ice thermostat
2 Evaporator
3 Expansion valve
4 Compressor
5 Compressor clutch
6 Pressure switch
7 Sight glass
8 Dehydrator
9 Cooling fan
10 Condenser
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towards the engine and remove the old
drivebelt.
5Fit the new drivebelt, position the
compressor to achieve the correct belt tension
and tighten the strap and pivot bolts.
6Refit and secure the fan, when applicable,
and reconnect the battery.
7Recheck the belt tension after it has run for
at least 10 minutes under load.
Condenser fan and motor
8Disconnect the battery earth lead and
remove the radiator grille.
9Disconnect the fan wiring connector at the
right-hand side of the condenser.
10Remove the three securing bolts andremove the fan and motor(see illustration).
Turn the frame to position the fan wiring on the
dehydrator side to avoid damaging the wiring.
Take care also not to damage the condenser
fins or tube.
11Unclip the fan guard from the top of the
frame.
12To remove the fan blades from the motor,
remove the retaining nut and circlip. The nut
has a left-hand threadie it is undone
clockwise.
13With the blades removed, the motor can
be unscrewed from the frame.
14Reassemble and refit in the reverse order
of dismantling and removal.
De-ice thermostat
15Disconnect the battery negative lead.
16Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the
plenum chamber cover. Pull off the rubber seal
and remove the plenum chamber cover; it is
secured by four screws and one nut.
17Disconnect the thermostat from the
evaporator casing and remove it. Also remove
the thermostat probe.
18Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Heater water valve
19The heater water valve used with air
conditioning is vacuum-operated. It is located
on the right-hand side of the engine bay, near
the bulkhead. 20Drain the cooling system.
21Slacken the hose clips and detach the
coolant hoses from the valve, noting how they
are connected.
22Disconnect the vacuum hose from the top
of the valve.
23Unclip the valve from its bracket and
remove it.
24Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Refill the cooling system.
3•10Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
22.4 Air conditioning compressor adjuster
strap bolts (arrowed)22.10 Condenser fan securing bolts
(arrowed)
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Fuel and exhaust systems 4•3
4
Weber 2V TLD carburettorPrimarySecondary
Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23.0 mm25.0 mm
Main jet:
Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .115157
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112157
Air correction jet:
Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175145
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210145
Emulsion tube:
Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F114F3
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210145
Fast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1800 ±50 rpm
Float level (with gasket) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29.0 ±0.5 mm
Automatic choke vacuum pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5.0 ±0.5 mm
Throttle kicker speed (see text):
Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2000 ±50 rpm
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2200 ±50 rpm
Fuel-injection system
Make . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Bosch
Fuel pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Roller cell, electric
Fuel pump output pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Greater than 5 bar at 12 volts, no flow
System control pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2.5 bar
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Inlet manifold:
SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2113 to 16
DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2415 to 18
V6:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 to 83 to 6
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 156 to 11
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 to 2111 to 16
Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2516 to 18
Stage 5 (after warm-up) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2516 to 18
Exhaust manifold:
OHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2516 to 18
V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 to 3018 to 22
Plenum chamber to inlet manifold:
2.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 to 105 to 7
2.4 & 2.9 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Carburettor bolts (DOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 106 to 7
Fuel pump bolts (mechanical pump) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 to 1810 to 13
Fuel pipe to fuel-injection pressure regulator:
SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 to 2011 to 15
2.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 to 127 to 9
Pressure regulator base nut/bolt:
SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 127 to 9
V6:
2.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 to 2011 to 15
2.4 & 2.9 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 117 to 8
Fuel rail bolts:
SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 117 to 8
DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2615 to 19
Exhaust downpipe flange nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 to 4026 to 30
Exhaust clamps and U-bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 to 4528 to 33
Exhaust gas oxygen sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 to 7037 to 52
Throttle body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 117 to 8
Idle speed control valve bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 117 to 8
Fuel filter unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 to 2010 to 15
Fuel rail temperature sensor (DOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 116 to 8
Fuel rail temperature switch (2.4 & 2.9 litre) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
HEGO sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 to 7037 to 52
All models are fitted with a rear-mounted fuel
tank. Fuel is conveyed from the tank by a
mechanical or electrical fuel pump, according tomodel and equipment, to the carburettor or fuel-
injection system. The delivery capacity of the
fuel pump exceeds the maximum demands of
the system, so excess fuel is constantly returned
to the tank. This helps to avoid the problems of
vapour locks in the fuel lines.
Carburettor models have a twin venturidowndraught carburettor of Pierburg
manufacture on 1.8 litre models and Weber on
2.0 litre models. Both makes of carburettor
have an automatic choke.
Fuel-injection, when fitted, is of the Bosch
L-Jetronic type. This system is under the
control of the EEC IV module.
1General information and
precautions
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4With the engine cold, disconnect the cold
air inlet trunking from the spout. Look into the
spout and check that the flap valve is covering
the hot air inlet.
5Start the engine and allow it to idle. Check
that the flap moves to cover the cold air inlet. If
the flap does not move, check the diaphragm
and heat sensor as follows.
6Stop the engine. Disconnect the diaphragm
vacuum pipe from the heat sensor. Apply
vacuum to the diaphragm, using a vacuum
head pump or by connecting the pipe directly
to manifold vacuum. If the flap now moves, the
heat sensor or vacuum line was faulty. If the
flap still does not move, the diaphragm is
faulty or the flap is jammed.
7On completion reconnect the vacuum pipe
and the cold air trunking.
Mechanical
1Carburettor models without air conditioning
are fitted with a mechanical fuel pump, located
on the left-hand side of the engine block.
2To test the pump, disconnect the ignition
coil LT lead. Disconnect the outlet hose from
the pump and place a wad of rag next to the
pump outlet. Take appropriate fire
precautions.
3Have an assistant crank the engine on the
starter. Well-defined spurts of fuel must beejected from the pump outlet - if not, the pump
is probably faulty (or the tank is empty).
Dispose of the fuel-soaked rag safely.
4To remove the fuel pump, first disconnect
the battery negative lead.
5Disconnect and plug the pump inlet and
outlet hoses. Be prepared for fuel spillage.
6Unscrew the two bolts and withdraw the
pump from the cylinder block. Remove the
gasket. If necessary extract the pushrod (see
illustrations).
7Clean the exterior of the pump in paraffin
and wipe dry. Clean all traces of gasket from
the cylinder block and pump flange.
8If the fuel pump has a removable cover,
remove the screw and withdraw the cover and
nylon mesh filter with seal (see illustrations).
Clean the filter, cover and pump in fuel. Locate
the filter in the cover and fit the cover to the
pump so that the pipe and indentation are
aligned. Tighten the screw.
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit a
new gasket and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque. If necessary discard the
crimped type hose clips and fit screw type
clips.
Electrical
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
10All fuel-injection models, and carburettor
models when fitted with air conditioning, have
an electric fuel pump. The two types of pump
are not the same, although both are mounted
under the vehicle next to the fuel tank.11If the fuel pump appears to have failed
completely, check the appropriate fuse and
relay. On fuel-injection models, also check the
inertia switch (when fitted).
12To test the carburettor type pump,
disconnect the fuel supply hose from the
pressure regulator or vapour separator in the
engine compartment. Lead the hose into a
measuring cylinder.
13Take appropriate fire precautions. Switch
on the ignition for 30 seconds and measure
the quantity of fuel delivered: it should be at
least 400 cc (0.7 pint).
14To test the fuel-injection type pump,
special equipment is required. Consult a Ford
dealer or other fuel-injection specialist. The
problem may be due to a clogged filter.
15To remove a pump, first disconnect the
battery negative lead. Take appropriate fire
precautions.
16Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
Clean the fuel pump and its surroundings.
17Clamp the tank-to-pump hose, or make
arrangements to collect the contents of the
fuel tank which will otherwise be released.
18Place a drain pan beneath the pump.
Disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses; be
prepared for fuel spillage. Caution: Fuel under
pressure may spray out of the outlet hose
union as it is slackened.
19Disconnect the wiring plug from the pump.
20Slacken the pump bracket clamp bolt and
slide the pump out of the bracket.
21Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that all hoses and unions are in
good condition.
22On2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines up to mid-
1990, switch the ignition on and off five times,
without cranking the engine, to pressurise the
fuel system then check the pump unions for
signs of leakage.
23Run the engine and check for leaks.
DOHC engine
24On these models the fuel pump is
mounted in the fuel tank, on the same
mounting as the fuel level sender unit(see
illustration).To test the pump specialist
equipment is required, therefore this task must
be entrusted to a Ford dealer.
4Fuel pump - testing, removal
and refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•5
4
4.6a Removing the mechanical fuel pump4.6b Fuel pump pushrod
4.8a Removing the fuel pump cover - note
alignment indentations4.8b Fuel pump cover and filter screenA Fuel pumpB Fuel level sender unit
4.24 Combined fuel pump/fuel level sender
unit
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25To remove the pump, first remove the fuel
tank.
26Unscrew the fuel pump/fuel level sender
unit by engaging two crossed screwdrivers in
the slots on either side of the unit mounting
flange. Recover the seal.
27Refitting is a reversal of removal. It is
necessary to fit a new seal.
1Run the fuel level as low as possible before
removing the tank.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the fuel filler cap. Siphon or pump
the remaining fuel out of the tank. Store the
fuel in a suitable sealed container.
4Remove the two screws on either side of the
filler neck.
5Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
6Remove the shield from the right-hand rear
inner wheel arch. Also remove the rear bumper
undershield. which is secured by six screws.
7Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines
from the tank (see illustration). Drain the fuel
in the lines into a suitable container and
remove it.
8Support the fuel tank. Remove the two bolts
which secure the rear ends of the fuel tank
supporting straps.
9Lower the tank and supporting straps,unhooking the front ends of the straps from
their locations. Disconnect the wiring and the
vent hose from the tank. Remove the tank with
filler pipe attached.
10Fuel tank repairs including soldering or
welding must be left to specialists. Even when
empty, the tank may contain explosive vapour.
Proprietary compounds are available for
making temporary “cold” repairs.
11Refit the fuel tank in the reverse order to
removal. Check for leaks on completion.
1Remove the fuel tank.
2Unscrew the sender unit from the tank.
There is a Ford tool (No 23-014) which
engages with the lugs on the unit, but with
patience a pair of crossed screwdrivers or
similar items can be used instead.
3Remove the sender unit, taking care not to
damage the float or bend the float arm(see
illustration).Recover the seal.
4A defective sender unit must be renewed;
spares are not available. Renew the seal in any
case.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Fitted to DOHC and 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6
engined models, this device is designed to cutoff pressurised fuel to the fuel-injection system
in the event of an accident. It does this by
interrupting the electrical supply to the fuel
pump.
2To remove the switch, first disconnect the
battery negative lead.
3Open up the tailgate and locate the switch
which is mounted near the tailgate lock striker.
On Estate models the switch is located behind
a trim panel in the rear right-hand corner of the
luggage compartment (see illustration).
4Remove the trim panel and disconnect the
switch wiring connector (see illustrations).
5Extract the two retaining screws and
remove the switch.
6Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure. On completion, depress the switch
button to ensure that the switch has been
reset.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Unclip the under-dash insulation on the
driver’s side.
3Disconnect the cable from the pedal. The
cable may be secured by a clip, or it may slot
into a “keyhole” fitting (see illustration).
4Remove the two nuts which secure the
throttle pedal bracket to the bulkhead.
Remove the pedal and bracket.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
8Throttle pedal - removal and
refitting
7Fuel cut-off inertia switch -
removal and refitting
6Fuel gauge sender unit -
removal and refitting
5Fuel tank - removal and refitting
4•6Fuel and exhaust systems
5.7 Fuel tank supply (left) and return hoses
7.4a On early models it will be necessary to
remove the luggage compartment rear trim
panel to gain access to the fuel cut-off
inertia switch . . .
7.4b . . . on later models an access cover in
the trim panel is provided8.3 Throttle pedal showing “keyhole” cable
fitting (arrowed)
6.3 Removing the fuel gauge sender unit7.3 Fuel cut-off inertia switch location -
Estate models
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