washer fluid FORD GRANADA 1985 Service Repair Manual

Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Air cleaner filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Air conditioner condenser check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Air conditioner refrigerant charge check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Automatic choke check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Automatic transmission brake band adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Automatic transmission selector lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Auxiliary drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Battery electrolyte level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Battery terminal check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Brake pipe and hose check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Brake system seal and hose renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Camshaft drivebelt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
Crankcase ventilation vent valve renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Driveshaft check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Engine coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Engine inlet manifold security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Engine valve clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Final drive oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Front and rear brake pad check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Hinge and lock check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Hot starting check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Idle mixture check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Idle speed check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Idle speed linkage clean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Ignition system component check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Manual gearbox oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Oil filler cap check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Roadwheel security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See end of Chapter
Steering and suspension security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Tyre checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Underbody inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the
assumption that you will be carrying out the work yourself. These are
the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the manufacturer
for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak
condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these
procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because
it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.
If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or drivenfrequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more
frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.
When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-
authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory
warranty.
1•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty Contents
1
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly
m mCheck the engine oil level (Section 3).
m mCheck the engine coolant level (Section 3).
m mCheck the brake fluid level (Section 3).
m mCheck the screen washer fluid level (Section 3).
m mVisually examine the tyres for tread depth, and wear or
damage (Section 4).
m mCheck and if necessary adjust the tyre pressures
(Section 4).
m mCheck and if necessary top-up the battery electrolyte
level - where applicable (Section 6).
m mCheck the operation of the horn, all lights, and the
wipers and washers (Sections 5 and 7).
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or
6 months – whichever comes sooner
m mRenew engine oil and filter (Section 8)
m mCheck brake pads for wear (front and rear) (Section 9)
m mCheck tightness of wheel nuts (Section 13)
m mCheck idle speed (1.8 litre only) (Section 15)
m mCheck idle mixture (not fuel-injection models) - at first
6000 miles only (Section 16)
m mClean oil filler cap (Section 14)
m mInspect engine bay and underside of vehicle for fluid
leaks or other signs of damage (Section 10)
m mCheck function and condition of seat belts (Section 11)
m mCheck operation of brake fluid level warning indicator
(Section 9)
m mCheck condition and security of exhaust system
(Section 12).
Ford Granada maintenance schedule
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1•3
1
Maintenance Schedule
Engine oil
SOHC:
With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3.75 litres (6.6 pints)
DOHC:
With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.5 litres (7.9 pints)
Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.0 litres (7.0 pints)
V6:
With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.25 litres (7.5 pints)
Cooling system
OHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.0 litres (14.1 pints)
V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.5 litres (15.0 pints)
Fuel tank
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 litres (15.4 gallons)
Manual gearbox
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.25 litres (2.2 pints)
Automatic transmission
All models (from dry) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.5 litres (15.0 pints)
Final drive
7 inch crownwheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.9 litres (1.6 pints)
7.5 inch crownwheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.3 litres (2.3 pints)
Power steering
OHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.65 litres (1.1 pints)
V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.75 litres (1.3 pints)
Capacities
1 Battery
2 Engine oil dipstick
3 Inlet manifold
4 Throttle/kickdown cable
bracket
5 Suspension turrets
6 Ignition coil
7 Air cleaner cover
8 Fuel pressure regulator
9 Vane airflow meter
10 Headlight covers
11 Tune-up label
12 Idle speed control valve
13 Oil filler cap
14 Spark plug leads
15 VIN plate
16 Radiator hoses
17 Horn
18 Windscreen washer
pump19 Windscreen washer
reservoir
20 Alternator
21 Coolant expansion tank
cap
22 Engine mounting
23 Heater hose
24 Automatic transmission
fluid dipstick
25 Brake fluid reservoir
cap
26 Brake hydraulic unit
accumulator
27 Brake hydraulic unit
valve block
28 Main fuse/relay box
29 Wiper motor (behind
cover)
30 Heater blower cover
1 Windscreen wiper motor
2 Battery
3 Suspension strut top
mounting
4 Brake fluid reservoir
5 Ignition distributor
6 Coolant expansion tank
7 Washer fluid reservoir
8 Automatic transmission
fluid dipstick
9 Oil filler cap
10 Engine oil level dipstick
11 Air cleaner element
housing
12 Idle speed control valve
13 Ignition module
14 Manifold Absolute
Pressure (MAP) sensor15 Throttle position sensor
16 Power steering fluid
reservoir
17 Anti-theft alarm horn
18 Speed control system
diaphragm
19 Speed control system
vacuum pump
20 Vehicle identification
(VIN) plate
21 Fuel pressure regulator
22 Air charge temperature
sensor
23 Manifold absolute
pressure (MAP) sensor
vapour trap
24 Fuse/relay boxUnder-bonnet view of a 2.0 litre SOHC Granada with
fuel-injection
Under-bonnet view of a 2.0 litre DOHC Granada with
fuel-injection
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1•4Maintenance Schedule
1 Battery
2 Suspension turrets
3 Air cleaner cover
4 Vane airflow meters
5 Headlight covers
6 Tune-up label
7 Auxiliary driving light covers
8 Crankcase ventilation hoses
9 Throttle linkage cover
10 Throttle cable and kickdown switch
11 Plenum chamber
12 Idle speed control valve
13 Radiator top hose
14 Oil filler cap
15 Power steering fluid reservoir
16 Horn
17 Washer fluid level switch
18 Windscreen washer pump
19 Windscreen washer reservoir
20 Coolant level switch
21 Coolant expansion tank cap
22 Engine mounting
23 Heater hose
24 Brake hydraulic unit valve block
25 Brake fluid reservoir cap
26 Brake hydraulic unit accumulator
27 Main fuse/relay box
28 Wiper motor (behind cover)
29 Heater blower cover
30 Fuel pressure regulator
31 Distributor screening lid
32 Engine oil dipstick
33 Automatic transmission fluid dipstick Under-bonnet view of a 2.8 litre V6 Granada
1 Brake and fuel pipes
2 Transmission sump
3 Transmission crossmember
4 Speedometer sender unit
5 Propeller shaft coupling
6 Exhaust flanged joint
7 Exhaust mounting
8 Exhaust pipe
9 Jacking points
10 Anti-roll bar clamps
11 Anti-roll bar
12 Brake calipers
13 Brake flexible hoses
14 Suspension lower arms
15 Front crossmember
16 Track rods
17 Track rod ends
18 Steering rack bellows
19 Radiator bottom hose
20 Alternator
21 Transmission fluid cooler hoses
22 Crankshaft pulley
23 Fan
24 Oil filter
25 Sump drain plug
26 Starter motor
27 Starter motor solenoid Front underbody view of a 2.0 litre SOHC Granada with automatic transmission
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1•5
1
Maintenance Schedule
1 Track rod end
2 Track rod
3 Steering gear gaiter
4 Water pump
5 Starter motor
6 Front suspension lower arm
7 Front suspension anti-roll bar
8 Exhaust downpipe
9 Exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO) sensor -
models with catalytic converter
10 Front suspension crossmember
11 Sump drain plug
12 Power steering pump
13 Washer fluid reservoir
14 Radiator cooling fans
15 Catalytic converter (where fitted)
16 Catalytic converter heatshield (where
fitted)
17 Transmission crossmember
18 Fuel feed and return pipes
19 Rear brake pipes
20 Steering gear feed and return hosesFront underbody view of a 2.0 litre DOHC Granada with automatic transmission
1 Rear silencer
2 Fuel pump (fuel-injection)
3 Fuel filter (fuel-injection)
4 Fuel tank
5 Fuel tank straps
6 Anti-roll bar clamps
7 Final drive rear mounting
8 Anti-roll bar
9 Driveshafts
10 Driveshaft joints
11 Final drive unit
12 Handbrake cables
13 Suspension lower arms
14 Crossmember
15 Exhaust hanger
16 Guide plates
17 Propeller shaft
18 Propeller shaft universal joint
19 Brake and fuel pipes
20 Shock absorber lower mountings
21 Jacking points
22 Intermediate silencer
23 Exhaust pipe
Rear underbody view of a 2.0 litre SOHC Granada with fuel-injection
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to release any pressure. When pressure has
been released, carry on unscrewing the cap
and remove it.
9Top-up to the MAX mark with the specified
coolant (see illustration).In an emergency
plain water is better than nothing, but
remember that it is diluting the proper coolant.
Do not add cold water to an overheated
engine whilst it is still hot.
10Refit the expansion tank cap securely
when the level is correct. With a sealed type
cooling system like this, the addition of
coolant should only be necessary at very
infrequent intervals. If frequent topping-up is
required, it is likely there is a leak in the
system. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint
faces for any sign of staining or actual
wetness, and rectify as necessary. If no leaks
can be found, it is advisable to have the
pressure cap and the entire system pressure-
tested by a dealer or suitably-equipped
garage, as this will often show up a small leak
not previously apparent.
Brake fluid
Be sure to use only the specified brake
hydraulic fluid, since mixing different types of
fluid can cause damage to the system. See
“Lubricants, fluids and capacities”at the
beginning of this Chapter. When adding fluid,
it is a good idea to inspect the reservoir for
contamination. The system should be drained
and refilled if deposits, dirt particles or
contamination are seen in the fluid.
11Check the brake fluid level as follows.
12With the vehicle parked on level ground
and the ignition switched off, pump the brake
pedal at least 20 times or until the pedal feels
hard.
13Open the bonnet. Switch on the ignition:
the hydraulic unit pump will be heard running.
Wait until the pump stops, then switch off the
ignition.
14The fluid level in the reservoir should now
be between the MAX and MIN marks. If
topping-up is necessary, unplug the electrical
connectors from the cap, then unscrew and
remove it (see illustration).Catch the
hydraulic fluid which will drip off the level
sensor with a piece of rag.
15Top-up with fresh brake fluid of the
specified type (see illustration).Do not
overfill. Refit and reconnect the reservoir cap
immediately.16The fluid level in the reservoir will drop
slightly as the brake pads wear down during
normal operation. If the reservoir requires
repeated replenishment to maintain the proper
level, this is an indication of a hydraulic leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.
Washer fluid
17When topping-up the windscreen or rear
screen washer fluid reservoir, a screenwash
additive should be added in the quantities
recommended on the bottle.
1On later models tyres may have tread wear
safety bands, which will appear when the
tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm.
Otherwise, tread wear can be monitored with a
simple, inexpensive device known as a tread
depth indicator gauge (see illustration).
2Wheels and tyres should give no real
problems in use, provided that a close eye is
kept on them with regard to excessive wear or
damage. To this end, the following points
should be noted.
3Ensure that the tyre pressures are checked
regularly and maintained correctly (see
illustration). Checking should be carried out
with the tyres cold, not immediately after the
vehicle has been in use. If the pressures are
checked with the tyres hot, an apparently-high
reading will be obtained, owing to heat
expansion. Under no circumstancesshould
an attempt be made to reduce the pressures
to the quoted cold reading in this instance, or
effective under-inflation will result.
4Note any abnormal tread wear (see
illustration). Tread pattern irregularities such
as feathering, flat spots, and more wear on
one side than the other, are indications of front
wheel alignment and/or balance problems. If
any of these conditions are noted, they should
be rectified as soon as possible.
5Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, owing to excessive flexing of the casing,
and the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause excessive wear, not to
mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due
to heat build-up.
4Tyre checks
1•7
1
Weekly checks
3.14 Removing the brake fluid reservoir cap3.15 Topping up the brake fluid reservoir
4.1 Checking the tyre tread depth4.3 Checking tyre pressure
3.9 Topping up the cooling system
Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and damage
painted surfaces, so use extreme
caution when handling and
pouring it. Do not use fluid that has been
standing open for some time, as it absorbs
moisture from the air. Excess moisture can
cause a dangerous loss of braking
effectiveness.If any brake fluid gets onto
paintwork, wash it off
immediately with clean water.
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3Persistent need for topping-up the battery
electrolyte suggests either that the alternator
output is excessive. or that the battery is
approaching the end of its life.
4Further information on the battery, charging
and jump-starting can be found in Chapter 5,
and in the preliminary Sections of this manual.1Clean the wiper blades and the windscreen,
using a solution of concentrated washer fluid
or methylated spirit. Similarly clean the
headlight lens and wiper blades.
2Check the condition of the wiper blades; if
they are cracked or show any signs of
deterioration, or if the glass swept area is
smeared, renew them. At the same time,
check the headlight wiper blades (where fitted)
for condition, and renew if necessary.
3To remove a blade, hinge the arm and blade
away from the screen. Press the tab on the
spring clip in the middle of the blade and
unhook the blade from the arm. 4Refit the blade by sliding it onto the hook on
the arm(see illustration).
5Check that the windscreen washer jets
operate correctly, and direct the washer fluid
towards the upper area of the wiper blade
stroke. If necessary, use a pin to reposition the
washer jets.
7Wiper blade check
1Before starting this procedure, gather
together all the necessary tools and materials.
Also make sure that you have plenty of clean
rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any
spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm,
as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge
will be removed with it. Take care, however,
not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts
of the engine when working under the vehicle.
To avoid any possibility of scalding, and toprotect yourself from possible skin irritants
and other harmful contaminants in used
engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when
carrying out this work.
2Access to the underside of the vehicle will be
greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift,
driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported
on axle stands (see “Jacking”). Whichever
method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle
remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain
plug is at the lowest point.
3Slacken the drain plug about half a turn.
Position the draining container under the drain
plug, then remove the plug completely. If
possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the
sump while unscrewing it by hand the last
couple of turns. As the plug releases from the
threads, move it away sharply so the stream of
oil issuing from the sump runs into the
container, not up your sleeve. Recover the
sealing washer from the drain plug.
4Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
5After all the oil has drained, wipe off the
drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing
washer for condition, and renew it if
necessary. Clean the area around the drain
plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the
plug to the specified torque.
6Move the container into position under the
oil filter. On SOHC engines, the filter is located
on the left-hand side of the cylinder block in
front of the engine bearer. On DOHC and V6
engines, the filter is located on the right-hand
side of the cylinder block (see illustration).
7Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary,
slacken the filter, then unscrew it by hand the
rest of the way. Empty the oil from the old filter
into the container, and discard the filter.8Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and
sludge from the filter sealing area on the
engine. Check the old filter to make sure that
the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the
engine. If it has, carefully remove it.
9Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to
the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it
into position on the engine. Tighten the filter
firmly by hand only - do notuse any tools.
Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug.
10Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the car, then lower the car to the ground
(if applicable).
11Remove the oil filler cap and withdraw the
dipstick from the top of the filler tube. Fill the
engine, using the correct grade and type of oil
(see “Lubricants and fluids”). An oil can spout
or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in
half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait
a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump.
Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time
until the level is up to the lower mark on the
dipstick. Finally, bring the level up to the upper
mark on the dipstick. Insert the dipstick, and
refit the filler cap.
12Start the engine and run it for a few
minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter
seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there
may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil
pressure warning light goes out when the
engine is first started, as the oil circulates
through the engine oil galleries and the new oil
filter, before the pressure builds up.
13Switch off the engine, and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
14Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
reference to “General repair procedures”in the
reference Sections of this manual.
8Engine oil and filter renewal
1•9
1
Every 6000 miles or 6 months
8.6 Fitting an oil filter
6.2 Topping up the battery7.4 Fitting a windscreen wiper blade
Every 6000 miles or 6 months
For maximum clarity of vision,
windscreen wiper blades
should be renewed annually,
as a matter of course.
Frequent oil and filter changes
are the most important
preventative maintenance
procedures which can be
undertaken by the DIY owner. As
engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and
contaminated, which leads to
premature engine wear.
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1Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front and rear of the car and support it
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking”).
2For a quick check, the front brake disc pads
can be inspected without removing the front
wheels, using a mirror and a torch through the
aperture in the rear face of the caliper. If any
one pad is worn down to the minimum
specified, all four pads (on both front wheels)
must be renewed.
3It is necessary to remove the rear wheels in
order to inspect the rear pads. The pads can
be viewed through the top of the caliper after
removing the spring clip. If any one pad is
worn down to the minimum specified, all four
pads (on both rear wheels) must be renewed.
4For a comprehensive check, the brake pads
should be removed and cleaned. The
operation of the caliper can then also be
checked, and the condition of the brake discs
can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to
Chapter 10 for further information.
5At the same interval, check the function of
the brake fluid level warning light. Chock the
wheels, release the handbrake and switch on
the ignition. Unscrew and raise the brake fluid
reservoir cap whilst an assistant observes the
warning light: it should come on as the level
sensor is withdrawn from the fluid. Refit the
cap.
6On completion, refit the wheels and lower
the car to the ground.
1Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the rocker cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that
over a period of time some very slight seepage
from these areas is to be expected but what
you are really looking for is any indication of a
serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew
the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to
the appropriate Chapter(s) in this manual.
2Similarly, check the transmission for oil
leaks, and investigate and rectify and
problems found.
3Check the security and condition of all the
engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all
cable-ties or securing clips are in place and in
good condition. Clips which are broken or
missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,
pipes or wiring which could cause more
serious problems in the future.
4Carefully check the condition of all coolant,
fuel and brake hoses. Renew any hose which
is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will
show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay
close attention to the hose clips that secure
the hoses to the system components. Hoseclips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting
in leaks. If wire type hose clips are used, it
may be a good idea to replace them with
screw-type clips.
5With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank
and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other
damage. The connection between the filler neck
and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a
rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due
to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber.
6Similarly, inspect all brake hoses and metal
pipes. If any damage or deterioration is
discovered, do not drive the vehicle until the
necessary repair work has been carried out.
Renew any damaged sections of hose or pipe.
7Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.
Check for loose connections, deteriorated
hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Pay
particular attention to the vent pipes and
hoses which often loop up around the filler
neck and can become blocked or crimped.
Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle
carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew
damaged sections as necessary.
8From within the engine compartment, check
the security of all fuel hose attachments and
pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and
vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
deterioration.
9Where applicable, check the condition of
the oil cooler hoses and pipes.
10Check the condition of all exposed wiring
harnesses.
11Also check the engine and transmission
components for signs of fluid leaks.
Periodically check the belts for fraying or
other damage. If evident, renew the belt.
If the belts become dirty, wipe them with a
damp cloth using a little detergent only.
Check the tightness of the anchor bolts and
if they are ever disconnected, make quite sure
that the original sequence of fitting of washers,
bushes and anchor plates is retained.With the vehicle raised on a hoist or
supported on axle stands (see “Jacking”),
check the exhaust system for signs of leaks,
corrosion or damage and check the rubber
mountings for condition and security. Where
damage or corrosion are evident, renew the
system complete or in sections, as applicable,
using the information given in Chapter 4.
With the wheels on the ground, slacken
each wheel nut by a quarter turn, then
retighten it immediately to the specified
torque.
Remove and clean the oil filler cap of any
sludge build-up using paraffin.
Inspect the vent hose for blockage or
damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-up
of crankcase pressure, which in turn can
cause oil leaks.
An accurate tachometer (rev. counter) will
be needed to adjust the idle speed. The
engine must be at operating temperature, the
air cleaner element must be clean and the
vacuum hoses fitted, and the engine valve
clearances must be correct. The ignition
system must also be in good condition.
Connect the tachometer to the engine as
instructed by the manufacturers. Start the
engine and allow it to idle. Read the speed
from the tachometer and compare it with the
value in the Specifications of Chapter 4
(Pierburg 2V carburettor).
If adjustment is necessary, turn the idle
speed adjustment screw. Turn the screw
clockwise to increase the speed, and anti-
clockwise to decrease the speed (see
illustration).
1.8 litre engine
1An exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) or other
proprietary device will be needed to adjust the
idle mixture.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the air cleaner element must be
clean and the vacuum hoses fitted, and the
16Idle mixture check -
carburettor models only
15Idle speed check - 1.8 litre
SOHC
14Oil filler cap check
13Roadwheel security check
12Exhaust system check
11Seat belt check10Fluid leak check
9Front and rear brake pad
check
1•10Every 6000 miles or 6 months
15.3 Idle adjustment screws - Pierburg 2V
carburettor
A Idle speedB Idle mixture
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the previous sub Section.
27Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the rotor arm is pushed fully home on the
rotor shaft. Make sure that the HT leads are
fitted to their correct cylinders. Note that the
rotor arm will only fit in one position.
Note: A brake band torque wrench - Ford tool
No 17-005, or equivalent - will be required for
this job.
1Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
2Disconnect the downshift (kickdown) cable
from the transmission when so equipped.
3Release the locknuts on the two brake band
adjuster screws. Back off each adjuster screw
a couple of turns (see illustration).
4Using the torque wrench, tighten one
adjusting screw to 13 Nm (10 lbf ft). Remove
the torque wrench and back off the adjuster
screw exactly two full turns from this position,
then hold the screw and tighten the locknut.
5Repeat the operations on the other adjuster.
6Reconnect the downshift cable, when
applicable, then lower the vehicle.
OHC engines
1Fitted to all fuel-injected models, the filter
can be renewed as follows. Disconnect the
battery negative lead.
2Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
3Place a drain pan under the fuel filter. Take
adequate fire precautions.
4Wipe clean the area around the filter inlet
and outlet unions, then disconnect them (see
illustration). Caution: Fuel under pressure
may spray out as the unions are slackened.
5Slacken the filter clamp bolt and withdraw
the filter from the clamp. Dispose of the filter
safely, remember it is full of fuel.
6Fit the new filter into the clamp,observing
the arrows on the filter indicating the direction
of fuel flow. If there is a plastic band or sleeve
on the filter, position the clamp over the sleeve
to prevent chafing. Tighten the clamp bolt.
7Refit the inlet and outlet unions, using new
sealing washers. Tighten the union bolts.
8Reconnect the battery. Have an assistantswitch the ignition on and off a few times to
pressurise the system; watch the filter for
leakage as this is done.
9Lower the vehicle on completion.
V6 engines
10This operation is essentially the same as
described above, noting that the fuel system
should first be depressurised, see Chapter 4,
Section 28.
11Once the new filter has been installed,
switch the ignition on and off five times,
without cranking the engine, to pressurise the
system then check the filter unions for leaks.
Renew the crankcase ventilation vent valve
by pulling it from the oil separator and
loosening the hose clip (see illustration). Fit
the new valve, tighten the clip, and insert it
into the oil separator grommet.
Inspect the vent hose for blockage or
damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-up
of crankcase pressure, which in turn can
cause oil leaks.
42Crankcase ventilation vent
valve renewal
41Fuel filter renewal
40Automatic transmission
brake band adjustment
1•19
1
Every 36 000 miles or 3 years
41.4 Fuel filter outlet union (arrowed) -
OHC engine42.1 Pulling the vent valve from the oil
separator - SOHC engine40.3 Brake band adjuster screw (A) and
locknut (B)
If in doubt as to the condition of any of the
brake system seals and hoses, then renew
defective items whilst referring to the relevant
Sections of Chapter 10.
1An assistant andbleeding equipment will be
needed. A considerable quantity of hydraulic
fluid will be required - probably about 2 litres
(nearly half a gallon).2Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and
support the front of the vehicle andremove
the front wheels.
3Remove the hydraulic fluid reservoir cap.
4Open both front bleed screws one full turn.
Attach one bleed tube to each screw, placing
the free end of each tube in a jar.
5Pump the brake pedal to expel fluid from
the bleed screws. Pause after each upstroke
to allow the master cylinder to refill.
6When air emerges from both bleed screws,
stop pumping. Detach the left-hand caliper
without disconnecting it and remove the
inboard brake pad.
7Depress the caliper piston, using a purpose-
made tool or a blunt item such as a tyre lever,
to force more fluid out of the caliper. Hold thepiston depressed and have the assistant
pump the pedal until air emerges from the
bleed screw again.
8Tighten the bleed screw on the left-hand
caliper. Loosely refit the caliper and pad so
that the piston is not accidentally ejected.
9Repeat the purging operation on the right-
hand caliper, but do not refit it or tighten the
bleed screw yet.
10Fill the reservoir with fresh hydraulic fluid.
Position the bleed jar for the right-hand caliper
at least 300 mm (1 foot) above the level of the
bleed screw.
11Have the assistant pump the brake pedal
until fluid free of bubbles emerges from the
bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw at the
end of a downstroke.
44Brake hydraulic fluid renewal
43Brake hydraulic system seal
and hose renewal
Every 36 000 miles or 3 years
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Note: Refer to Part A, Section 4 of this Chapter
and to the warning that appears at the start of
Section 5 before proceeding. A hoist and lifting
tackle will be required for this operation.
1Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
of Section 5.
2Unscrew the securing bolt, and disconnect
the earth lead from the rear left-hand side of
the cylinder head.
3Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
4Jack up the vehicle and support it securely
on axle stands (see “Jacking”). Ensure that
there is enough working room beneath the
vehicle.
5To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
downpipe from the manifold and remove the
exhaust system.
6Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
7On models fitted with a catalytic converter,
release the securing clips and withdraw the
exhaust heat shield from under the vehicle for
access to the propeller shaft.
8Remove the propeller shaft.
9Where applicable, bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts in each case
securing the two anti-roll bar mounting clamps
to the vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll
bar as far as possible.
10Proceed as described in paragraphs 30
and 31 of Section 5.
11Support the gearbox with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the gearbox to spread the load.
12Unscrew the four nuts securing the
gearbox crossmember to the vehicle
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
the crossmember to the gearbox, and remove
the crossmember. Note the position of the
earth strap, where applicable. Recover the
mounting cup, and the exhaust mounting
bracket and heat shield (as applicable).
13Lower the gearbox slightly on the jack,
then remove the circlip, and disconnect the
speedometer drive cable from the gearbox.
14Disconnect the wiring from the reversing
lamp switch, and on models with fuel-injection,
disconnect the wiring from the vehicle speed
sensor mounted in the side of the gearbox.
15Slacken and remove the two bolts and
washers (one either side) securing the gear
linkage support bracket to the gearbox.
16Using a pin punch, drive out the roll pin
securing the gearchange rod to the gear linkage.
17Attach a hoist to the engine lifting brackets
located at the front and rear of the cylinder head,
and slowly take the weight of the engine. Arrange
the lifting tackle so that the engine/gearbox
assembly will assume a steep angle of
approximately 40°to 45°as it is being removed.
18To improve clearance in the engine
compartment when lifting the engine, unboltthe engine mounting brackets from the
cylinder block, and remove them.
19Ensure that the steering wheel is positioned
in the straight-ahead position then, using a dab
of paint or a marker pen, make alignment marks
between the intermediate shaft lower clamp
and steering gear pinion. Slacken and remove
the lower clamp bolt then disconnect the
intermediate shaft from the steering gear.
20Detach the brake lines from the front
suspension crossmember.
21Support the crossmember with a jack (do not
remove the jack from under the gearbox), then
loosen the bolts securing the crossmember to the
underbody. Remove the crossmember securing
bolts, and carefully lower the crossmember to
allow sufficient room for the engine sump to clear
the steering rack and crossmember as the
engine/gearbox assembly is removed.
22Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate removal of the
engine/gearbox assembly.
23Raise the engine/gearbox, at the same
time lowering the trolley jack which is
supporting the gearbox.
24Place a suitable rod across the vehicle
underbody to support the gear linkage support
bracket whilst the gearbox is removed.
25Tilt the engine/gearbox assembly using
the hoist and the trolley jack, until the
assembly can be lifted from the vehicle. Take
care not to damage surrounding components.
26If the vehicle is to be moved, with the
engine/gearbox assembly removed, temporarily
refit the suspension crossmember and the anti-
roll bar to the underbody, and reconnect the
steering column to the intermediate shaft.
27To separate the engine from the gearbox,
proceed as follows.
28Remove the starter motor.
29Support the engine and gearbox
horizontally on blocks of wood.
30Unscrew the engine-to-gearbox bolts,
noting the locations of the bolts, and the
positions of the earth strap and any wiring clips
attached to the bolts. Recover any shims fitted
between the sump and the gearbox when
removing the lower engine-to-gearbox bolts.
31Unscrew the bolt from the engine adapter
plate.
32Pull the engine and gearbox apart, taking
care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It
may be necessary to rock the units slightly to
separate them.
Note: Refer to Part A, Section 4 of this
Chapter and to the warning that appears at the
start of Section 5 before proceeding. A
suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be required
for this operation. Any suspected faults in the
automatic transmission should be referred to a
Ford dealer or automatic transmissionspecialist before removal of unit, as the
specialist fault diagnosis equipment is
designed to operate with the transmission in
the vehicle.
1Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
of Section 5.
2Unscrew the securing bolt, and disconnect
the earth lead from the rear left-hand side of
the cylinder head.
3Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
4Jack up the vehicle and support it securely
on axle stands (see “Jacking”). Ensure that
there is enough working room beneath the
vehicle.
5To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
downpipe from the manifold and remove the
exhaust system .
6Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
7On models fitted with a catalytic converter,
release the securing clips and withdraw the
exhaust heat shield from under the vehicle for
access to the propeller shaft.
8Remove the propeller shaft.
9Where applicable, bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts in each case
securing the two anti-roll bar mounting clamps
to the vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll
bar as far as possible.
10Support the transmission with a trolley
jack, using a block of wood between the jack
and the transmission to spread the load.
11Unscrew the four bolts securing the
transmission crossmember to the vehicle
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
the crossmember to the transmission, and
remove the crossmember. Note the position of
the earth strap, where applicable. Recover the
mounting cup, and the exhaust mounting
bracket and heat shield (as applicable).
12Lower the transmission slightly on the jack.
13Unscrew the unions and disconnect the
fluid cooler pipes from the transmission. Plug
the open ends of the pipes and the
transmission to prevent dirt ingress and fluid
leakage. Where applicable, detach the fluid
cooler pipe bracket from the engine mounting
bracket, and move it to one side.
14Remove the two clips securing the
selector rod, and detach the selector rod from
the manual selector lever, and the selector
lever on the transmission.
15Disconnect the wiring from the starter
inhibitor switch, downshift solenoid, lock-up
clutch, reversing lamp switch, and where
applicable, the 3rd/4th gearchange solenoid.
16Remove the securing screw, and
disconnect the speedometer cable (where
fitted) from the transmission extension
housing. Plug the opening in the transmission
to prevent dirt ingress.
17Proceed as described in paragraphs 17 to 26
of Section 7, substituting transmission for
gearbox and ignoring paragraph 24.
18To separate the engine from the
transmission, proceed as follows.
19Remove the starter motor.
20Support the engine and transmission
horizontally on blocks of wood.
8Engine/automatic
transmission assembly -
removal and separation
7Engine/manual gearbox
assembly - removal and
separation
2B•6DOHCengine
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5Extract the piston seal from the groove in
the bore, using a blunt instrument (see
illustration). Discard the seal and dust boot.
6Clean the piston and bore with methylated
spirit and inspect them for scuffs, scores or
other damage. If the piston is corroded it must
be renewed. Slight imperfections in the bore
can be polished out with wire wool.
7Place the clean component on a clean
surface ready for reassembly. Lubricate the
caliper hose with clean hydraulic fluid.
8Fit the new piston seal to the groove in the
bore, using fingers only to work it into position.
9Lubricate the piston with clean hydraulic
fluid and fit the dust boot over the piston,
making sure it is the right way up. Insert the
piston into the bore and press it home,
engaging the dust boot lip with the groove on
the caliper (see illustration).
10This completes the overhaul of the hydraulic
components. Items such as slide bolts and
bracket can also be renewed if necessary.
11Remove the bleed screw while the caliper
is on the bench and apply a little anti-seize
compound to its threads, to avoid trouble in
undoing it later.
1With the ignition off, pump the brake pedal
at least 20 times (or until it becomes hard) to
depressurise the system.
2Chock the front wheels and release the
handbrake. Slacken the rear wheel nuts, raiseand support the vehicle and remove the
relevant wheel.
3Disconnect the pad wear warning wires,
when fitted.
4Disconnect the flexible hose from the brake
pipe. Plug or cap the open unions to reduce
spillage and to keep dirt out. Unscrew the
flexible hose from the caliper and remove it.
5Remove the two slide bolts. Lift the caliper
off the pads and bracket, at the same time
unhooking the handbrake cable (see
illustrations). Alternatively, the two bracket-
to-hub bolts can be removed and the caliper
and bracket separated on the bench.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations,
but before refitting the wheel, bleed both rear
calipers as described in Section 2.
7When bleeding is complete, pump the brake
pedal several times to bring the pads up to the
disc, then check the operation of the
handbrake.
Note: Complete dismantling of the rear caliper
should not be attempted unless Ford spring
compressor (tool No 12-007) is available. or
unless the problems likely to arise in the absence
of the tool are understood. Renewal of the piston
seal and dust boot requires no special tools.
1Clean the caliper externally and mount it in a
soft-jawed vice.
2Rotate the piston anti-clockwise until it isprotruding from the bore by about 20 mm (0.8 in).
Free the dust boot from the groove in the
piston, then carry on unscrewing the piston
and remove it. Remove and discard the dust
boot.
3The piston and bore may now be cleaned
and examined, and the piston seal and dust
boot renewed, as described for the front
caliper (Section 10).
4The piston adjuster nut seal should also be
renewed. Remove the circlip from the piston,
then extract the thrustwashers, wave washer
and thrust bearing. Note the fitted sequence of
these components. Finally remove the nut
(see illustrations).
5Remove the seal from the nut, noting which
way round it is fitted. Clean the nut with
methylated spirit. Lubricate the new seal with
clean hydraulic fluid and fit it to the nut.
12Rear caliper - overhaul
11Rear caliper - removal and
refitting
10•6Braking system
10.5 Removing the piston seal
12.4a Removing the circlip from a rear
caliper piston . . .12.4b . . . followed by a thrustwasher . . .
11.5b . . . and remove the rear caliper
10.9 Pressing the piston into the bore11.5a Unhook the handbrake cable . . .
12.4c . . . a wave washer and (not shown)
another thrustwasher . . .
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