ABS FORD MONDEO 1993 Service User Guide

4Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits that
may have formed on the valves, then use a
power-operated wire brush to remove
deposits from the valve heads and stems.
Inspection
Note:Be sure to perform all the following
inspection procedures before concluding that
the services of a machine shop or engine
overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of
all items that require attention.
Cylinder head
5Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,
evidence of coolant leakage, and other
damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder
head should be obtained.
6Use a straight edge and feeler blade to
check that the cylinder head gasket surface is
not distorted (see illustration). If it is, it may
be possible to re-surface it.
7Examine the valve seats in each of the
combustion chambers. If they are severely
pitted, cracked or burned, then they will need
to be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaul
specialist. If they are only slightly pitted, this
can be removed by grinding-in the valve
heads and seats with fine valve-grinding
compound, as described below.
8If the valve guides are worn, indicated by a
side-to-side motion of the valve, new guidesmust be fitted. Measure the diameter of the
existing valve stems (see below) and the bore
of the guides, then calculate the clearance,
and compare the result with the specified
value; if the clearance is excessive, renew the
valves or guides as necessary.
9The renewal of valve guides is best carried
out by an engine overhaul specialist.
10If the valve seats are to be re-cut, this
must be done only afterthe guides have been
renewed.
Valves
11Examine the head of each valve for
pitting, burning, cracks and general wear, and
check the valve stem for scoring and wear
ridges. Rotate the valve, and check for any
obvious indication that it is bent. Look for pits
and excessive wear on the tip of each valve
stem. Renew any valve that shows any such
signs of wear or damage.
12If the valve appears satisfactory at this
stage, measure the valve stem diameter at
several points, using a micrometer (see
illustration). Any significant difference in the
readings obtained indicates wear of the valve
stem. Should any of these conditions be
apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed.
13If the valves are in satisfactory condition,
they should be ground (lapped) into their
respective seats, to ensure a smooth gas-
tight seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if
it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound
onlyshould be used to produce the required
finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound
should notbe used unless a seat is badly
burned or deeply pitted; if this is the case, the
cylinder head and valves should be inspected
by an expert, to decide whether seat re-
cutting, or even the renewal of the valve or
seat insert, is required.
14Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Place the cylinder head upside-down on a
bench, with a block of wood at each end to
give clearance for the valve stems.
15Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade
of) valve-grinding compound on the seat face,
and press a suction grinding tool onto the
valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind
the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve
occasionally to redistribute the grindingcompound (see illustration). A light spring
placed under the valve head will greatly ease
this operation.
16If coarse grinding compound is being
used, work only until a dull, matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, then wipe off the used compound, and
repeat the process with fine compound. When
a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt
finish is produced on both the valve and seat,
the grinding operation is complete. Do not
grind in the valves any further than absolutely
necessary, or the seat will be prematurely
sunk into the cylinder head.
17When all the valves have been ground-in,
carefully wash off alltraces of grinding
compound, using paraffin or a suitable
solvent, before reassembly of the cylinder
head.
Valve components
18Examine the valve springs for signs of
damage and discolouration, and also measure
their free length by comparing each of the
existing springs with a new component.
19Stand each spring on a flat surface, and
check it for squareness (see illustration). If
any of the springs are damaged, distorted, or
have lost their tension, obtain a complete set
of new springs.
20Check the spring upper seats and collets
for obvious wear and cracks. Any
questionable parts should be renewed, as
extensive damage will occur if they fail during
engine operation. Any damaged or
excessively-worn parts must be renewed; the
valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals must be
renewed as a matter of course whenever they
are disturbed.
21Check the hydraulic tappets as described
in Part A of this Chapter, Section 13.
1Regardless of whether or not the head was
sent away for repair work of any sort, make
sure that it is clean before beginning
reassembly. Be sure to remove any metal
particles and abrasive grit that may still be
present from operations such as valve
8 Cylinder head - reassembly
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•11
2B
7.12 Measuring the diameter of a valve
stem - if any significant difference is found
in the readings obtained, excessive valve
stem wear is indicated7.15 Grinding-in a valve seat - do not grind
in the valves any more than absolutely
necessary, or their seats will be
prematurely sunk into the cylinder head
7.19 Check each valve spring for
squareness
7.6 Check the cylinder head gasket
surfaces for warpage, in the planes
indicated (A to G). Try to slip a feeler
gauge under the precision straight edge
(see the Specifications for the maximum
distortion allowed, and use a feeler blade
of that thickness)
procarmanuals.com

15Measure the piston diameter at right-
angles to the gudgeon pin axis, just above the
bottom of the skirt; again, note the results
(see illustration).
16If it is wished to obtain the piston-to-bore
clearance, measure the bore and piston skirt
as described above, and subtract the skirt
diameter from the bore measurement. If the
precision measuring tools shown are not
available, the condition of the pistons and
bores can be assessed, though not quite as
accurately, by using feeler gauges as follows.
Select a feeler gauge of thickness equal to the
specified piston-to-bore clearance, and slip it
into the cylinder along with the matching
piston. The piston must be positioned exactly
as it normally would be. The feeler gauge
must be between the piston and cylinder on
one of the thrust faces (at right-angles to the
gudgeon pin bore). The piston should slip
through the cylinder (with the feeler gauge in
place) with moderate pressure; if it falls
through or slides through easily, the clearance
is excessive, and a new piston will be
required. If the piston binds at the lower end
of the cylinder, and is loose toward the top,
the cylinder is tapered. If tight spots are
encountered as the piston/feeler gauge is
rotated in the cylinder, the cylinder is out-of-
round (oval).
17Repeat these procedures for the
remaining pistons and cylinder bores.
18Compare the results with the
Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter; if any measurement is beyond the
dimensions specified for that class (check the
piston crown marking to establish the class of
piston fitted), or if any bore measurement is
significantly different from the others
(indicating that the bore is tapered or oval),
the piston or bore is excessively-worn.
19Worn pistons must be renewed; at the
time of writing, pistons are available as Ford
replacement parts only as part of the
complete piston/connecting rod assembly.
See a Ford dealer or engine reconditioning
specialist for advice.
20If any of the cylinder bores are badlyscuffed or scored, or if they are excessively-
worn, out-of-round or tapered, the usual
course of action would be to have the cylinder
block/crankcase rebored, and to fit new,
oversized, pistons on reassembly. See a Ford
dealer or engine reconditioning specialist for
advice.
21If the bores are in reasonably good
condition and not excessively-worn, then it
may only be necessary to renew the piston
rings.
22If this is the case (and if new rings can be
found), the bores should be honed, to allow
the new rings to bed in correctly and provide
the best possible seal; before honing the
bores, refit the main bearing caps (without the
bearing shells), and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting. Note:If you
don’t have the tools, or don’t want to tackle
the honing operation, most engine
reconditioning specialists will do it for a
reasonable fee.
23Two types of cylinder hones are
commonly available - the flex hone or “bottle-
brush” type, and the more traditional
surfacing hone with spring-loaded stones.
Both will do the job and are used with a
power drill, but for the less-experienced
mechanic, the “bottle-brush” hone will
probably be easier to use. You will also need
some paraffin or honing oil, and rags.
Proceed as follows:
(a) Mount the hone in the drill, compress the
stones, and slip it into the first bore (see
illustration). Be sure to wear safety
goggles or a face shield!
(b) Lubricate the bore with plenty of honing
oil, switch on the drill, and move the hone
up and down the bore, at a pace that will
produce a fine cross-hatch pattern on the
cylinder walls. Ideally, the cross-hatch
lines should intersect at approximately a
60° angle (see illustration). Be sure to
use plenty of lubricant, and don’t take off
any more material than is absolutely
necessary to produce the desired finish.
Note:Piston ring manufacturers may
specify a different crosshatch angle - readand follow any instructions included with
the new rings.
(c) Don’t withdraw the hone from the bore
while it’s running. Instead, switch off the
drill, and continue moving the hone up
and down the bore until it comes to a
complete stop, then compress the stones
and withdraw the hone. If you’re using a
“bottle-brush” hone, switch off the drill,
then turn the chuck in the normal
direction of rotation while withdrawing the
hone from the bore.
(d) Wipe the oil out of the bore, and repeat
the procedure for the remaining cylinders.
(e) When all the cylinder bores are honed,
chamfer the top edges of the bores with a
small file, so the rings won’t catch when
the pistons are installed. Be very careful
not to nick the cylinder walls with the end
of the file.
(f) The entire cylinder block/crankcase must
be washed very thoroughly with warm,
soapy water, to remove all traces of the
abrasive grit produced during the honing
operation. Note:The bores can be
considered clean when a lint-free white
cloth - dampened with clean engine oil -
used to wipe them out doesn’t pick up
any more honing residue, which will show
up as grey areas on the cloth. Be sure to
run a brush through all oil holes and
galleries, and flush them with running
water.
(g) When the cylinder block/crankcase is
completely clean, rinse it thoroughly and
dry it, then lightly oil all exposed
machined surfaces, to prevent rusting.
24The cylinder block/crankcase should now
be completely clean and dry, with all
components checked for wear or damage,
and repaired or overhauled as necessary.
Refit as many ancillary components as
possible, for safekeeping (see paragraphs 9
and 10 above). If reassembly is not to start
immediately, cover the block with a large
plastic bag to keep it clean, and protect the
machined surfaces as described above to
prevent rusting.
2B•16 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures
11.15 Measure the piston skirt diameter at
right-angles to the gudgeon pin axis, just
above the base of the skirt11.23A A “bottle-brush” hone will produce
better results if you have never honed
cylinders before11.23B The cylinder hone should leave a
smooth, cross-hatch pattern with the lines
intersecting at approximately a 60º angle
procarmanuals.com

to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and
corrodes the bearing material.
7Incorrect shell refitting during engine
assembly will lead to bearing failure as well.
Tight-fitting shells leave insufficient bearing
running clearance, and will result in oil
starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped
behind a bearing shell result in high spots on
the bearing, which lead to failure. Do not
touch any shell’s bearing surface with your
fingers during reassembly; there is a risk of
scratching the delicate surface, or of
depositing particles of dirt on it.
1Before reassembly begins, ensure that all
new parts have been obtained, and that all
necessary tools are available. Read through
the entire procedure, to familiarise yourself
with the work involved, and to ensure that all
items necessary for reassembly of the engine
are at hand. In addition to all normal tools and
materials, suitable sealant will be required for
two of the joint faces (Ford recommend
Hylosil 102 for the cylinder block/crankcase-
to-sump/oil pump/oil seal carrier joints, and
Loctite 518 for the camshaft right-hand
bearing caps). In all other cases, provided the
relevant mating surfaces are clean and flat,
new gaskets will be sufficient to ensure joints
are oil-tight. Do notuse any kind of silicone-
based sealant on any part of the fuel system
or inlet manifold, and neveruse exhaust
sealants upstream of the catalytic converter.
2In order to save time and avoid problems,
engine reassembly can be carried out in the
following order:
(a) Crankshaft (Section 17).
(b) Piston/connecting rod assemblies
(Section 18).
(c) Oil pump (Part A of this Chapter, Section
16).
(d) Sump (Part A of this Chapter, Section 15).
(e) Flywheel/driveplate (Part A of this
Chapter, Section 21).
(f) Cylinder head (Part A of this Chapter,
Section 14).(g) Timing belt inner cover, tensioner and
toothed pulleys, and timing belt (Part A of
this Chapter).
(h) Engine external components.
3At this stage, all engine components should
be absolutely clean and dry, with all faults
repaired; they should be laid out (or in
individual containers) on a completely-clean
work surface.
1Before installing new piston rings, check
the end gaps. Lay out each piston set with a
piston/connecting rod assembly, and keep
them together as a matched set from now on.
2Insert the top compression ring into the first
cylinder, and square it up with the cylinder
walls by pushing it in with the top of the piston
(see illustration). The ring should be near the
bottom of the cylinder, at the lower limit of
ring travel.
3To measure the end gap, slip feeler gauges
between the ends of the ring, until a gauge
equal to the gap width is found (see
illustration). The feeler gauge should slide
between the ring ends with a slight amount of
drag. Compare the measurement to the value
given in the Specifications Section of this
Chapter; if the gap is larger or smaller than
specified, double-check to make sure you
have the correct rings before proceeding. If
you are assessing the condition of used rings,
have the cylinder bores checked and
measured by a Ford dealer or similar engine
reconditioning specialist, so that you can be
sure of exactly which component is worn, and
seek advice as to the best course of action to
take.
4If the end gap is still too small, it must be
opened up by careful filing of the ring ends
using a fine file. If it is too large, this is not as
serious, unless the specified limit is exceeded,
in which case very careful checking is
required of the dimensions of all components,
as well as of the new parts.
5Repeat the procedure for each ring that will
be installed in the first cylinder, and for eachring in the remaining cylinders. Remember to
keep rings, pistons and cylinders matched up.
6Refit the piston rings as follows. Where the
original rings are being refitted, use the marks
or notes made on removal, to ensure that
each ring is refitted to its original groove and
the same way up. New rings generally have
their top surfaces identified by markings
(often an indication of size, such as “STD”, or
the word “TOP”) - the rings must be fitted with
such markings uppermost (see illustration).
Note:Always follow the instructions printed
on the ring package or box - different
manufacturers may require different
approaches. Do not mix up the top and
second compression rings, as they usually
have different cross-sections.
7The oil control ring (lowest one on the
piston) is usually installed first. It is composed
of three separate elements. Slip the
spacer/expander into the groove (see
illustration). If an anti-rotation tang is used,
make sure it is inserted into the drilled hole in
the ring groove. Next, install the lower side
rail. Don’t use a piston ring installation tool on
the oil ring side rails, as they may be
damaged. Instead, place one end of the side
rail into the groove between the
spacer/expander and the ring land, hold it
firmly in place, and slide a finger around the
piston while pushing the rail into the groove
16 Piston rings - refitting
15 Engine overhaul -
reassembly sequence
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•19
2B
16.7A Installing the spacer/expander in
the oil control ring groove
16.2 When checking piston ring end gap,
the ring must be square in the cylinder
bore (this is done by pushing the ring down
with the top of a piston, as shown)
16.3 With the ring square in the bore,
measure the end gap with a feeler
gauge16.6 Look for etched markings (“STD” -
indicating a standard-sized ring - shown
here) identifying piston ring top surface
procarmanuals.com

make sure that no dirt or oil was between the
bearing shells and the caps or block when the
clearance was measured. If the Plastigage is
noticeably wider at one end than the other,
the journal may be tapered (see Section 13).
12Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigage material off the main bearing
journals and the bearing surfaces. Be very
careful not to scratch the bearing - use your
fingernail or the edge of a credit card.
Final refitting
13Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
engine. Clean the bearing surfaces of the
shells in the block, then apply a thin, uniform
layer of clean molybdenum disulphide-based
grease, engine assembly lubricant, or clean
engine oil to each surface (see illustration).
Coat the thrustwasher surfaces as well.
14Lubricate the crankshaft oil seal journals
with molybdenum disulphide-based grease,
engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil.
15Make sure the crankshaft journals are
clean, then lay the crankshaft back in place in
the block (see illustration). Clean the bearing
surfaces of the shells in the caps, then
lubricate them. Install the caps in their
respective positions, with the arrows pointing
to the timing belt end of the engine.
16Working on one cap at a time, from the
centre main bearing outwards (and ensuring
that each cap is tightened down squarely and
evenly onto the block), tighten the mainbearing cap bolts to the specified torque
wrench setting.
17Rotate the crankshaft a number of times
by hand, to check for any obvious binding.
18Check the crankshaft endfloat (see
Section 10). It should be correct if the
crankshaft thrust faces aren’t worn or
damaged, and if the No 3 (centre) main
bearing’s upper shell has been renewed.
19Refit the crankshaft left-hand oil seal
carrier, and install a new seal (see Part A of
this Chapter, Section 20).
1Before refitting the piston/connecting rod
assemblies, the cylinder bores must be
perfectly clean, the top edge of each cylinder
must be chamfered, and the crankshaft must
be in place.
2Remove the big-end bearing cap from No 1
cylinder connecting rod (refer to the marks
noted or made on removal). Remove the
original bearing shells, and wipe the bearing
recesses of the connecting rod and cap with a
clean, lint-free cloth. They must be kept
spotlessly-clean!
Big-end bearing running
clearance check
3Clean the back of the new upper bearing
shell, fit it to the connecting rod, then fit the
other shell of the bearing set to the big-end
bearing cap. Make sure the tab on each shell
fits into the notch in the rod or cap recess
(see illustration).
Caution: Don’t hammer the shells
into place, and don’t nick or
gouge the bearing face. Don’t
lubricate the bearing at this time.
4It’s critically important that all mating
surfaces of the bearing components are
perfectly clean and oil-free when they’re
assembled.
5Position the piston ring gaps as described
in Section 16, lubricate the piston and rings
with clean engine oil, and attach a piston ring
compressor to the piston. Leave the skirt
protruding about a quarter-inch, to guide the
piston into the cylinder bore. The rings must
be compressed until they’re flush with the
piston.
6Rotate the crankshaft until No 1 crankpin
(big-end) journal is at BDC (Bottom Dead
Centre), and apply a coat of engine oil to the
cylinder walls.
7Arrange the No 1 piston/connecting rod
assembly so that the arrow on the piston
crown points to the timing belt end of the
engine. The cylinder number (counting from
the timing belt end of the engine) is etched
into the flat-machined surface of the
connecting rod and its cap, and must be
visible from the front (exhaust side) of the
engine (see illustrations 9.5A and 9.5B).
Gently insert the assembly into the No 1
cylinder bore, and rest the bottom edge of the
ring compressor on the engine block.
8Tap the top edge of the ring compressor to
make sure it’s contacting the block around its
entire circumference.
9Gently tap on the top of the piston with the
end of a wooden hammer handle (see
illustration), while guiding the connecting
18 Piston/connecting rod
assemblies-
refitting and big-end bearing
running clearance check
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•21
2B
18.3 Tab on each big-end bearing shell
must engage with notch in connecting rod
or cap18.9 The piston can be driven gently into
the cylinder bore with the end of a wooden
or plastic hammer handle
18.11 The connecting rod and big-end
bearing cap of each assembly must share
the same etched cylinder number, visible
from the same (front/exhaust) side of the
engine
17.13 Ensure bearing shells are absolutely
clean, lubricate liberally . . .17.15 . . . and refit the crankshaft
procarmanuals.com

3Release the protruding locking lugs on each
union, by squeezing them together and
carefully pulling the coupling apart. Use rag to
soak up any spilt fuel. Where the unions are
colour-coded, the pipes cannot be confused.
Where both unions are the same colour, note
carefully which pipe is connected to which,
and ensure that they are correctly
reconnected on refitting (see illustration).
4To reconnect one of these couplings, press
them together until the locking lugs snap into
their groove. Switch the ignition on and off
five times to pressurise the system, and check
for any sign of fuel leakage around the
disturbed coupling before attempting to start
the engine.
Checking
5Checking procedures for the fuel lines are
included in Chapter 1.
Component renewal
6If you must renew any damaged sections,
use original-equipment replacement hoses or
pipes, constructed from exactly the same
material as the section you are replacing. Do
not install substitutes constructed from
inferior or inappropriate material, or you could
cause a fuel leak or a fire.
7Before detaching or disconnecting any part
of the fuel system, note the routing of all
hoses and pipes, and the orientation of all
clamps and clips. Replacement sections must
be installed in exactly the same manner.8Before disconnecting any part of the fuel
system, be sure to relieve the fuel system
pressure (see Section 2), and equalise tank
pressure by removing the fuel filler cap. Also
disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead -
see Chapter 5, Section 1. Cover the fitting
being disconnected with a rag, to absorb any
fuel that may spray out.
Air cleaner assembly
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Chapter 5, Section 1.
2Unclip the air mass meter from the air
cleaner cover (see Chapter 6).
3Disconnect the crankcase breather hose,
either from the air cleaner housing or from the
cylinder head cover union (see illustration).
4Remove the rubber retaining band (see
illustration). Withdraw the air cleaner
assembly, lifting it upwards out of its
grommets, and releasing it from the rubber
connector sleeve in the inner wing panel.
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the housing pegs seat
correctly in their grommets, and that the
intake mouth is fully engaged inside the
connector sleeve (see illustration).
Air intake components
Note:Depending on the reason for removal,
these components can be removed either
individually, or as one assembly. For example,
unplugging the two electrical connectors and
disconnecting the vacuum hose (where fitted),
will allow the air cleaner assembly cover to be
removed with the air mass meter, the
resonator and the plenum chamber.
Air mass meter
6Refer to Section 4 of Chapter 6.
Resonator (engine compartment)
7Unbolt the resonator support bracket from
the engine compartment front crossmember.
Slacken the two clamp screws securing the
resonator to the air mass meter and plenum
chamber hoses. Swing the resonator clear of
the thermostat housing, and unplug the intake
air temperature sensor’s electrical connector
(see illustration). Withdraw the resonator.
8Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Plenum chamber
9Prising out the rubber plugs covering them,
undo the chamber’s fasteners (see
illustration). Slacken the clamp screw
securing the chamber to the resonator hose.
10Lift the chamber and (where fitted)
disconnect the vacuum hose from its
underside. Withdraw the chamber - note the
two rubber spacers (one on each throttle
4 Air cleaner assembly and air
intake components -
removal and refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•3
4
4.5 Ensure air filter housing intake mouth
is fully engaged inside connector sleeve4.7 Unplugging intake air temperature
sensor’s electrical connector4.9 Plenum chamber fasteners (arrowed) -
four shown here, some vehicles may only
have three
3.3 Disconnect fuel line quick-release
couplings by squeezing together protruding
locking lugs and pulling coupling apart4.3 Disconnecting the crankcase breather
hose from the cylinder head union4.4 Remove rubber retaining band to
withdraw air cleaner assembly
procarmanuals.com

Renewal
3Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Chapter 5, Section 1.
4Remove the plenum chamber (see Sec-
tion 4).
5Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage (see Section 5 or 6, as
appropriate). Where fitted, also disconnect
the cruise control actuator cable (see Chap-
ter 12).
6Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large
electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure
regulator). Similarly release and unplug the
throttle potentiometer’s electrical connector.
7Clearly label, then detach, all vacuum hoses
from the throttle housing.
8Remove the throttle housing mounting
screws (see illustration), then detach the
throttle housing and gasket from the inlet
manifold. Discard the gasket - this must be
renewed whenever it is disturbed.
9Using a soft brush and carburettor cleaner,
thoroughly clean the exterior of the throttle
housing, then blow out all passages with
compressed air.
Caution: Do not clean the throttle
housing’s bore, the throttle valve,
or the potentiometer, either by
scraping or with a solvent. Just
wipe them over carefully with a clean soft
cloth.
10Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Fit a new gasket, and tighten the
housing screws to the specified torque.
Fuel rail and injectors
Check
11Refer to the procedure in the fuel system
check (see Section 15).
Renewal
Note:For simplicity, and to ensure the
necessary absolute cleanliness on
reassembly, the following procedure
describes the removal of the fuel rail
assembly, complete with the injectors and
pressure regulator, so that the injectors can be
serviced individually on a clean work surface.
It is also possible to remove and refit an
individual injector once the fuel system has
been depressurised and the battery has been
disconnected. If this approach is followed,
read through the complete procedure, and
work as described in the relevant paragraphs,
depending on the amount of preliminary
dismantling required. Be careful not to allow
any dirt to enter the system (see
illustrations).
12Relieve the residual pressure in the fuel
system (see Section 2), and equalise tank
pressure by removing the fuel filler cap.
Warning: This procedure will
merely relieve the increased
pressure necessary for the
engine to run - remember that
fuel will still be present in the system
components, and take precautions
accordingly before disconnecting any of
them.
13Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1.
14Remove the plenum chamber (see
Section 4).
15If the additional clearance is required,
disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage (see Section 5 or 6, as
appropriate). Where fitted, also disconnect
the cruise control actuator cable (see Chap-
ter 12).
16Releasing the wire clips, unplug the four
fuel injector electrical connectors.
17Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines
at the quick-release couplings next to the
braking system vacuum servo unit, then
unclip the fuel hoses from the inlet manifold;
use rag to soak up any spilt fuel. Note:Do not
disturb the threaded couplings at the fuel rail
unions unless absolutely necessary; these aresealed at the factory. The quick-release
couplings will suffice for all normal service
operations.
18Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the cylinder head cover union, and the
vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator
(see illustration).
19Unscrew the three bolts securing the fuel
rail, and withdraw the rail, carefully prising it
out of the inlet manifold, and draining any
remaining fuel into a suitable clean container
(see illustrations). Note the seals between
the rail noses and the manifold; these must be
renewed whenever the rail is removed.
20Clamping the rail carefully in a vice fitted
with soft jaws, unscrew the two bolts securing
each injector, and withdraw the injectors.
Place each in a clean, clearly-labelled storage
container.
21If you are renewing the injector(s), discard
the old injector, the nose seal and the O-rings.
If you are simply renewing leaking injector O-
4•10 Fuel and exhaust systems
16.8 Undo screws (arrowed) to remove
throttle housing16.12A Fuel injectors can be unbolted
(arrowed) . . .16.12B . . . and removed individually if
required, but it is better to remove them
with the fuel rail, if servicing is necessary.
O-ring seals (arrowed) must be renewed
whenever injector is removed
16.18 Injector removal - disconnect fuel
lines at quick-release couplings (A), unclip
hoses (B), disconnect vacuum hose from
regulator (C), unplug electrical
connectors (D) - three of four shown - and
disconnect breather hose from union (E)
16.19A Unscrew bolts (arrowed) . . .
16.19B . . . and withdraw fuel rail with
injectors and pressure regulator - renew
nose seals (arrowed) whenever rail is
disturbed
procarmanuals.com

Chapter 9 Braking system
ABS hydraulic unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
ABS relay box - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
ABS wheel sensor - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Brake pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Brake pedal-to-servo cross-link (right-hand-drive models
only) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Front brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Front brake pads - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Handbrake cables - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Handbrake lever - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Hydraulic pipes and hoses - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . 14
Hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Master cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Pressure-control relief valve (ABS models) - removal and refitting . . 19
Pressure-control relief valve (non-ABS models) - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Rear brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Rear brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Rear brake drum - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Rear brake pads - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Rear brake shoes - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Stop-light switch - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
TCS inhibitor switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
TCS throttle actuator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Vacuum servo unit - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Vacuum servo unit vacuum hose and non-return valve -
removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Front brakes
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ventilated disc, with single-piston floating caliper
Disc diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260.0 mm
Disc thickness:
New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24.15 mm
Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.20 mm
Maximum disc run-out (fitted) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm
Maximum disc thickness variation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 mm
Front hub face maximum run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mm
Rear drum brakes
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Leading and trailing shoes, with automatic adjusters
Drum diameter:
New:
1.6 Saloon/Hatchback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203.0 mm
1.8 and 2.0 Saloon/Hatchback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228.6 mm
Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228.6 mm
Maximum diameter:
1.6 Saloon/Hatchback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204.2 mm
1.8 and 2.0 Saloon/Hatchback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229.6 mm
Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229.6 mm
Rear disc brakes
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solid disc, with single-piston floating caliper
Disc diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252.0 mm
Disc thickness:
New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.0 mm
Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.0 mm
Maximum disc run-out (fitted) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm
Maximum disc thickness variation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 mm
Rear hub face maximum run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mm
9•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,suitable
for competent DIY
mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
9
procarmanuals.com

Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Front caliper bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 89
Rear caliper bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 44
Front caliper guide bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 21
Rear caliper guide bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30
Rear drum brake backplate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37
Vacuum servo unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30
Master cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17
ABS hydraulic unit to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63
9•2 Braking system
1.2 Handbrake lever and associated components
1 Handbrake lever
2 Clock spring
3 Handbrake cable
4 Toothed segment and pawl to lock the
handbrake lever5 Fine-toothed segment for the clock spring
6 Pawl for the clock spring
7 Underbody bracket
The braking system is of diagonally-split,
dual-circuit design, with ventilated discs at
the front, and drum or disc brakes (according
to model) at the rear. The front calipers are of
floating single-piston design, using asbestos-
free pads. The rear drum brakes are of the
leading and trailing shoe type. They are self-
adjusting during footbrake operation. The rear
brake shoe linings are of different
thicknesses, in order to allow for the different
proportional rates of wear.
Pressure-control relief (PCR) valves are
fitted to the rear brakes, to prevent rear wheel
lock-up under hard braking. The valves are
sometimes referred to as pressure-conscious
reducing valves. On non-ABS models, theyare fitted in the master cylinder rear brake
outlet ports; on ABS models, they are located
on the ABS unit.
When rear disc brakes are fitted, the rear
brake caliper is located on the front of the
knuckle on Saloon and Hatchback models,
and on the rear of the knuckle on Estate
models (see illustration).
The handbrake is cable-operated, and acts
on the rear brakes. On rear drum brake
models, the cables operate on the rear trailing
brake shoe operating levers, and on rear disc
brake models, they operate on levers on the
rear calipers. The handbrake lever
incorporates an automatic adjuster, which
removes any slack from the cables when the
lever is disengaged (see illustration).
Handbrake lever movement remains
consistent at all times, and no adjustment is
necessary or possible.
Where fitted, the anti-lock braking system
(ABS) is of the four-channel low-pressure type
(see illustration). It uses the basic
conventional brake system, together with aBendix ABS hydraulic unit fitted between the
master cylinder and the four wheel brakes.
The hydraulic unit consists of a hydraulic
actuator, an ABS brake pressure pump, an
ABS module with built-in relay box, and two
pressure-control relief valves. Braking at each
of the four wheels is controlled by separate
solenoid valves in the hydraulic actuator. If
wheel lock-up is detected on a wheel when
the vehicle speed is above 3 mph, the valve
opens, releasing pressure to the relevant
brake, until the wheel regains a rotational
speed corresponding to the speed of the
vehicle. The cycle can be repeated many
times a second. In the event of a fault in the
ABS system, the conventional braking system
is not affected. Diagnosis of a fault in the ABS
system requires the use of special equipment,
and this work should therefore be left to a
Ford dealer. Diagnostic connectors are
located on the side of the left-hand front
suspension turret.
The traction control system (TCS) is fitted
as an option to some models, and uses the
1 General information
1.1 Rear disc brake location on
Saloon/Hatchback models (A) and Estate
models (B)
1 Handbrake cable lever facing away from
caliper
2 Handbrake cable lever facing towards
caliper
3 Brake hose banjo bolt
4 Front of vehicle
procarmanuals.com

basic ABS system, with an additional pump
and valves fitted to the hydraulic actuator (see
illustration). If wheelspin is detected at a
speed below 30 mph, one of the valves
opens, to allow the pump to pressurise the
relevant brake, until the spinning wheel slows
to a rotational speed corresponding to the
speed of the vehicle. This has the effect of
transferring torque to the wheel with mosttraction. At the same time, the throttle plate is
closed slightly, to reduce the torque from the
engine. At speeds above 30 mph, the TCS
operates by throttle plate adjustment only.
Warning: Disc brake pads must
be renewed on both front wheels
at the same time - never renew
the pads on only one wheel, as
uneven braking may result. Although
genuine Ford linings are asbestos-free, the
dust created by wear of non-genuine pads
may contain asbestos, which is a health
hazard. Never blow it out with compressed
air, and don’t inhale any of it. DO NOT use
petroleum-based solvents to clean brake
parts; use brake cleaner or methylated
spirit only. DO NOT allow any brake fluid,
oil or grease to contact the brake pads or
disc. Also refer to the warning at the start
of Section 15 concerning brake fluid.
1Apply the handbrake. Loosen the front
wheel nuts, jack up the front of the vehicle
and support it on axle stands.
2Remove the front wheels. Work on onebrake assembly at a time, using the
assembled brake for reference if necessary.
3Follow the accompanying photos,
beginning with illustration 2.3A, for the pad
removal procedure. Be sure to stay in order,
and read the caption under each illustration.
4Inspect the front brake disc for scoring and
cracks. If a detailed inspection is necessary,
refer to Section 4.
5The piston must be pushed back into the
2 Front brake pads - renewal
Braking system 9•3
9
1.4 Solenoid valves fitted to the ABS/TCS
hydraulic actuator
1 ABS/TCS actuator
2 ABS solenoid valves
3 TCS solenoid valves
1.3 Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) and Traction Control System (TCS) component locations (left-hand-drive shown,
right-hand-drive similar)
1 ABS/TCS unit
2 ABS/TCS warning lights
3 TCS switch4 Rear wheel sensor ring location (drum
brakes left, disc brakes right)
5 Stop-light switch6 Self-test/diagnosis connectors
7 Front wheel sensor and ring
8 Throttle actuator
2.3A Prise the retaining clip from the
caliper. Hold it with a pair of pliers, to
avoid personal injury. On models fitted
with pad wear sensors, it will be necessary
to disconnect the wiring
procarmanuals.com

10Bleed the brake circuit according to the
procedure given in Section 15. Make sure
there are no leaks from the hose connections.
Test the brakes carefully before returning the
vehicle to normal service.
Refer to Section 4 (front disc inspection).
Once the rear caliper is removed, the
procedure is the same.
Removal
1Disconnect the low fluid level warning light
multi-plug from the fluid reservoir filler cap
(see illustration).Unscrew and remove the
cap (note that the filler cap should not be
inverted). Draw off the hydraulic fluid from the
reservoir, using an old battery hydrometer or a
poultry baster. Do notsyphon the fluid by
mouth; it is poisonous. Any brake fluid spilt on
paintwork should be washed off with clean
water, without delay - brake fluid is also a
highly-effective paint-stripper!
2Identify the locations of each brake pipe on
the master cylinder. On non-ABS models,
there are four pipes; the two rear brake pipes
are attached to PCR (pressure-consciousrelief) valves on the master cylinder. On ABS
models, there are only two pipes, which lead
to the ABS hydraulic unit (see illustration).
3Place rags beneath the master cylinder to
catch spilt hydraulic fluid.
4Clean around the hydraulic union nuts.
Unscrew the nuts, and disconnect the
hydraulic lines from the master cylinder.
5Unscrew the mounting nuts, and withdraw
the master cylinder from the studs on the front
of the servo unit. If the nuts are tight, a split
ring spanner should be used in preference to
an open-ended spanner. Plug or cap open
unions, to keep dust and dirt out.
6Recover the gasket from the master cylinder.
7If the master cylinder is faulty, it must be
renewed. At the time of writing, no overhaul
kits were available.
Refitting
8Clean the contact surfaces of the master
cylinder and servo.
9Locate a new gasket on the master cylinder.
10Position the master cylinder on the studs
on the servo unit. Refit and tighten the nuts to
the specified torque.
11Carefully insert the hydraulic lines in the
apertures in the master cylinder, then tightenthe union nuts. Make sure that the nuts enter
their threads correctly.
12Fill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid.
13Bleed the hydraulic system as described
in Section 15.
14Refit the reservoir filler cap, and reconnect
the multi-plug for the low fluid level warning
light.
15Test the brakes carefully before returning
the vehicle to normal service.
Removal
1Working inside the vehicle, move the
driver’s seat fully to the rear, to allow
maximum working area.
2Remove the ashtray, then unscrew the
screws and remove the lower facia panel.
3Prise the hairpin clip from the right-hand
end of the pedal pivot shaft, and remove the
washer (see illustration).
4Unscrew the nut securing the pedal
trunnion to the pushrod. The nut is located
near the top of the pedal (see illustrations).
12 Brake pedal-
removal and refitting
11 Master cylinder -
removal and refitting
10 Rear brake disc - inspection,
removal and refitting
9•10 Braking system
11.1 Brake fluid reservoir and low level
warning light multi-plug
11.2 Master cylinder connections
A Non-ABS models
B ABS models
1 Brake fluid reservoir
2 Master cylinder3 PCR valves for rear brakes
4 Primary brake hydraulic circuit (front right/rear left)
5 Secondary brake hydraulic circuit (front left/rear right)
12.3 Removing the hairpin clip from the
right-hand end of the brake pedal pivot shaft12.4A Unscrew the nut securing the pedal
trunnion to the pushrod . . .12.4B . . . and remove the tube from the
pushrod
procarmanuals.com